IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  MS80 

(716)  872-4503 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Featurbs  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographlcally  unique, 
wliich  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


D 


D 


D 


D 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommagte 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurte  et/ou  pellicul6e 


I      I   Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  giographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  r^utre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
ReliA  avec  d'autres  documents 


rri    Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 


along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serr^e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 

distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intArieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajout^es 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte. 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  At*  filmAes. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppl6mentaires: 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-Atre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  methods  normale  de  fllmage 
sont  indiquAs  ci-dessous. 


T 
t( 


|~~|   Coloured  pages/ 


D 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommag6es 


□    Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaur^es  et/ou  peiliculies 

□    Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d^coiortes,  tacheties  ou  piquies 

□    Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ddtachdes 

0Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

□    Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Quality  indgaie  de  I'lcnpression 

□    Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  supplAmentaire 


Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  ref limed  to 
ensure  the  be.«t  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  tot»!ement  ou  partieilement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  filmAes  A  nouveau  de  fa9on  A 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


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si 
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This  Item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmA  au  taux  de  reduction  indiquA  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


y 


12X 


16X 


20X 


26X 


30X 


24X 


28): 


n 

32X 


Tha  copy  filmed  here  has  baan  raproducad  thanks 
to  tha  ganarosity  of: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  Archi/es  of  British  Columbia 

Tha  imagas  appaaring  hara  ara  tha  bast  quality 
possibia  considaring  tha  condition  and  lagibility 
of  tha  original  copy  and  in  kaaping  with  tha 
filming  contract  spacifications. 


Original  copias  in  printad  papar  covers  ere  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  —^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  har;d  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


L'exemplaira  film*  fut  reproduit  grAce  A  la 
gAnArositA  da: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  Archives  of  British  Columbia 

Las  imagas  suivantas  ont  AtA  raproduites  avac  la 
plus  grand  soin.  compta  tenu  de  la  condition  at 
da  la  nattet6  de  l'exemplaira  film6,  at  en 
conformity  avac  las  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Les  exemplairas  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimAe  sont  filmAs  en  commenpant 
par  la  premier  plat  at  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
darnlAre  page  qui  comporte  una  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  la  second 
plat,  salon  la  cas.  Tous  las  autras  exemplairas 
originaux  sont  filmAs  en  commenpant  par  la 
premiAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  at  en  terminant  par 
la  derniAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
derniAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  — »>  signifie  "A  SUIVRE  ",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
filmAs  A  des  taux  de  rAduct'on  diffArents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atra 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichA,  il  est  filmA  A  partir 
de  Tangle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nAcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrant  la  mAthode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 


wmmf 


J.  R.  BOWMAN'S 


ILLUSTRATED 


\ 


THE  PACIFIC  TOURIST. 

The  handsomest  Guide  Book  in  the  world !  Every  travplpr  needs  It  !  Buy  the  bestl  AJaiuB  k  Bisliop's  Illufltnitad 
Trans-Contiin-iital  Guide  of  the  I'liciflc  Railroad,  Sctineiy  of  the  Fur  West,  FleaNiire  Kesnrta,  Mines  and  Lands  of  CHlifornla, 
Ur  ill,  Tlie  Hl:ick  Hill*,  Idaho,  Neviida,  iiiid  tlio  Pacitic  (;o!«»t.  Tlio  most  wonderful  book  of  Western  Scenery  ever  known. 
W-J0,0O0  worlli  of  eiteraviiigs  Full  of  Grand  llliistruiioiiM  of  Scenery  It  (If8<;rilic»  every  Kiiilroad  Station  of  the  Union 
and  (Vntral  I'anillc  Uailroads  for  8,500  niiles.  Tells  you  Wiiere  lo  Go,  What  to  Hi-e,  Wliere  to  Sport  and  Fish,  nil  »bout 
the  Pleasure  Reports.  Sprinifs,  Iiakes,  Mountains,  Mined.  Likiids.  and  every  place  tlint  will  intereiit  you  on  yutir  Overland 
Trip.    978  pai;a«,  price  •1.50,  doJiibla  cover*.    Railroad  Euitiou,  j|!S.OO,  full  cloth,  320  pages. 

TOURISTS'  MAP  OF  COLORADO. 

Endorsed  by  PuoF.  H  avdrs  as  the  most  accurate  Map  of  the  State  ever  published.  Contains  all  the  Hayden  Surveys, 
and  is  the  liandsoiiiest  Western  Map  ever  seen  Oontnius  the  elevation  of  eveiv  Mountiiin  Peak,  Pass,  and  Lake  in  the 
Slate,  every  Road  and  Trail,  ("ounly  Boundaries.  Cities.  Towns,  and  Post  Offices.  The  only  lonipliite  Map  of  Rivers, 
Streams,  liikes.  Railroads,  and  Routes  lo  the  Health  and  Pleasure  Resoris  and  Mines  of  all  portions  of  the  State,  its  geo- 
graphieal  surveys  of  the  Sa»  Juan  Mining  Region  have  been  of  unusual  detail,  completeness,  and  accuracy.  Price,  AO 
cents,  paper  covers. 

Tourists'  Guide  to  the  San  Juan  Mines. 

Contains  full  description  of  all  the  Mining  localities  discovered  within  the  past  two  years,  their  extraordinary  richness, 
and  Routes  of  Travel  thither.  Full  of  information  of  practical  importance  to  every  miner  and  traveler  ;  hIco  describes  the 
following  topics  ;  Bh  tuty  of  Scenery.  Hot  Springs.  iVagou  Wlieel  Gap.  Elevation  of  Mountains.  Towns,  Rates  of  Fare, 
Kxpeuses  of  Living.  Prices  Paid  for  Ore.  Miners' Out  tits.  The  Famous  Pagosa  Springs.  Freitiht  Clntrget".  Reduction  Works, 
How  to  Iy)cale  a  Claim,  .Market  Prices  of  Goods  in  priin'ipal  towns  of  San  .Juan,  etc.,  etc.;  all  about  the  new  Mines  at  Lake 
City,  Silverton.  Ouray,  Mineral  City,  ParrottCity,  and  Kosita  ;  Mining  Lawsot  the  Ciiited  States,  and  of  i  olorido  ;  all,  in 
fitc't  that  a  Miner  can  itossibly  wish  to  know.  Accompanied  with  a  handsome  colored  Map  of  Routes  to  Colorado 
FBOM  THE  East.    Price,  SO  cents,  paper  covers. 

All  the  about  Guides  and  Maps  for  mle  <m  all  Railroad  Tm\n»  in  the  Went,  or  ttnt  by  mail,  on  receipt  (^  price,  6y 
addnmiinj/ 

J.  R.  BOWMAN,  Publisher, 

46  Beekman  St.,  New  York. 


Also  for  sale  at  PUBLISHERS'  AGENCIES, 


BARKALOW  BROS.. 

Omahii,  Neb. 

JANSEN,  McCLURO  &  CO., 
Chicago,  [ll. 


RICHARDS  &  CO., 

Denver,  Col. 

AM.  TRACT  SOC. 

San  Franciseo,  Cai. 


£.  DENISON, 

Sacramento,  Cal. 

TBUPNER&CO., 

Loudon.  Eng. 


'^. 


'^ 


pp'gllliutntad 
ts  of  CHliforiiia, 
ry  ever  known, 
ri  of  tliH  Union 
FIhIi,  nil  iiboiit 
yuur  Overland 


ayden  Surveys, 
id  Lake  in  tlie 
HhP  of  Klveni, 
Slate.  Itsgeo- 
acy.    Price,  SO 


s. 

nary  ricbneu, 
>  describsH  tbe 
lales  of  Fare, 
iK'tlon  \Vork8, 
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on  do  ;  all,  in 
'O  CULOBAOO 


t  qf  price,  by 


rork. 


ito,  Cal. 
M-  Kng. 


Oopyrlglit.  1879,  by  Henry  T.  Wllllitnu. 


il 


r.VLACE-CAR  LIFE  ON  THE  PACIFIO  RAILROAD, 


sm 


»S 


^1  ^mm 


:^:^m, 


■i 


^be  pacific  ^awt^si. 

»•• J 

J.  R.  BOWMAN'S 


OF    TRAVEL, 


FROM 


The  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

COKTAININO  FULL  DESCRIPTIONS  OF 

RAILROAD  ROUTES   ACROSS    THK    CONTINENT,   ALL    PLEASURE    RESORTS    AND    PLACES    OF    MOST 

NOTED   SCENERY   IN    THE    FAR   WEST,    ALSO   OF    ALL   CITIES,    TOWNS,   VILLAGES, 

U.  8.    FORTS,    SPRINGS,   LAKES,   MOUNTAINS, 

ROUTES  OF   SUMMER  TRAVEL,  REST   LOCALITIES   FOR   HUNTING,   FISHING,  SPORTING,  AND  ENJOY-' 

MENT,   WITH    ALL   NEEDFUL    INFORMATION    FOR   THE    PLEASURE   TRAVELER, 

MINER,   SETTLER,   OR    BUSINESS    MAN. 

A  COMPLETE  TRAVELER'S  GUIDE 


"gkt  Mnim 


OF 


AXB  ALL  POINTS  OF  BUSINESS  OR  PLEASURE  TRAVEL  TO 

CALIFORNIA,  COLORADO,  NEBRASKA,  ft'YOMING,  UTAH,  NEVADA,  MONTANA,  THE  MINES  AND  MINING 

OF    THE   TERRITORIES,   THE    LANDS   OF    THE   PACIFIC    COAST,    THE   WONDERS   OF    THE 

ROCKY  MOUNTAINS,  THE   SCENERY  OF   THE   SIERRA   NEVADA8,  THE   COlr 

ORADO  MOUNTAINS,   THE    BIG  TREES,   THE    GEYSERS,   THK 

YOSEMITB,   AND   THE  YELLOWSTONE. 


FREDERICK  E.  SHEARER,  Editor. 

WITH  SPECIAL  CONTBIBUTIONa  BT 

Pbof.  F.  V.  HAYDEN,  CLAEENCE  KING,  Capt.  BUTTON,  A.  C.  PEAIE,  JOAQUIN 

MILLER,  and  J.  B.  DAVIS. 

ILLUSTRATIONS  BT 

THOMAS  MORAN,  A.  C.  WARREN,  W.  SNYDER,  F.  SCHELL,  H.  W.  TROY,  A.  WILL. 

ENGRAVINGS  BY  MEEDER  &  CHUBB. 

C  .  ■«    Railroad  Edition,  Flexible  Covers,  332  pp. 
"      C;    '^  Full  Cloth,  Stiflf  Covers,  304  pp. 

NEW  YORK: 
J.  R.    BOWMAN,   PUBLISHER. 

1882-83. 


r 


PREFACE, 


W 


V 


"The  Pacific  Tourist,"  fli-st  prepared  under  the  personal  supervision  of  Henry  T.  Williams, 
wa8  projected  on  an  imraenso  scale  and  complHted  at  commensurate  cost.  It  represented  over  nine 
months'  actual  time  spent  in  i)erBonal  travel — ovei"  a  lino  of  2,51)0  miles — getting  with  faithful- 
ness all  possible  facts  of  interest  and  the  latest  information.  Over  forty  artists,  engravers  and 
correspondents  were  employed,  and  the  work  completed  at  an  expense  of  nearly  §20,000:  the 
result  being  the  most  elaborate,  the  costliest  and  the  handsomest  Guide  Book  in  the  world. 
Before  the  book  was  issued  the  Editor  and  his  Assistants  iiad  traversed  the  Continent  more  than 
thirty  times. 

The  favor  with  which  the  work  was  received  is  apparent,  not  only  in  the  cordial  endorsements 
of  the  railroad  officials,  but  in  the  reception  of  the  work  by  the  public — more  than  a  hundred 
thousand  copies  having  been  sold  in  the  first  year — and  also  in  the  fact  that  similar  books  have 
entered  the  field  as  rivals,  but  no  one  has  attempted  the  vain  task  of  equalling  it. 

That  which  was  true  at  first  is  still  true — viz. :  that  in  this  volume  is  combined  every  possible 
&ct  to  guide  and  instruct  the  plea.sure  traveler,  business  man,  miner,  or  settler,  who  turns  his 
face  westward.  Herein  are  found  every  Bailroad  Station,  and  time  of  the  principal  Bailroads, 
all  Stage  Boutes,  Distances,  and  Fare  to  all  principal  points;  all  the  wonders  of  Western  Hcenery, 
Springs,  Mountains,  Canyons,  Lakes,  Deserts,  Bocks,  and  Gardens,  are  here  described  in  detaiL 

The  trans-ocean  traveler  from  Europe  to  the  Pacific  will  find  all  needful  information  of  routes 
on  the  Pacific  Ocean;  and  the  traveler  eastward  from  Australia  and  Japan  will  find  invaluable 
help  for  his  route  to  New  York. 

The  Big  Bonanza  Mines  are  also  described  in  glowing  language,  and  add  to  the  interest 
of  these  pages. 

The  Eepresentative  Men  of  the  Far  West,  who  have  been  the  energetic  projectors  and  sup- 
porters of  aU  its  active  and  successful  enterprises,  are  illustrated  in  our  pages. 

It  is  also  true  that  it  has  kept  pace  with  the  progress  of  the  country,  being  changed  from 
time  to  time  as  the  development  <  t  the  resources  and  the  increase  of  the  people  demand. 

No  other  volume  in  the  worla  contains  so  many  views  of  the  Scenery  of  the  West,  or  conducts 
the  traveler  over  so  many  miles  of  interesting,  varied  and  enchanting  scenery.  With  the  progress 
of  railroads,  new  fields  of  travel  are  opened,  favorite  resorts  are  made  more  accessible,  like  the 
Yosemite  by  the  Madera  route,  or  the  Yellowstono  v  a  the  Utah  Northern  Bailroad,  and  new 
ones,'  like  Monterey  so  charming  (California),  have  been  discovered  and  created.  In  short,  since 
the  opening  of  the  Pacific  Bailroad,  there  have  been  developed  an  immense  field  of  mining 
industry,  and  many  new  and  remarkable  places  of  wonderful  scenery  and  pleasure  travel.  The 
attractions  of  the  Bocky  Mountains  and  Sierras  have  become  world-famous,  and  regions,  un- 
known five  or  ten  years  ago,  have  been  discovered,  which  far  transcend  the  Uvelieat  imagination 
in  their  scenic  beauty  and  glorious  enjoyment.  Those  who  crossed  the  Continent  once  in 
enjoyment  of  the  scenery  of  the  Far  West  or  in  search  of  health,  can  now  return  to  the  same 
line  of  travel,  and  spend  an  entire  summer  in  visiting  Bcsorts,  H  foiintains.  Lakes,  Springs, 
Canyons,  which  were  recently  unknown  or  inaccessible,  but  are  now  easily  reached. 

The  Alpine  Pass,  the  highest  railroad  point  in  America,  with  its  views  of  the  Spanish  Peaks, 
has  been  brought  to  notice  by  the  extension  of  the  Denver  and  Bio  Grande  Bailroad;  also  the 
grandeur  of  the  Mountains  and  Lakes  of  the  San  Juan  mining  region.  The  wonderful  richness 
of  the  mines  at  Leadville  is  hardly  greater  than  the  beauties  of  the  scenery  by  which  it  is 
reached,  either  from  Canyon  City,  or  Denver,  or  Georgetown.  By  the  opening  of  the  Colorado 
Oential  Bailroad,  easy  access  is  given  to  the  wonders  of  Clear  Creek  Canyon,  the  ascent  of  Gray's 
Peak,  the  Middle  Park,  the  Hot  Sulphur  Springs,  the  beauties  of  Estes  Park  and  Long's  Peak, 
aU  of  which  are  of  remarkable  interest. 

Special  assistance  has  been  rendered  by  many  persons  which  contributes  to  the  interest  and 
aoocraoy  of  its  statements,  but  their  names  are  too  numerous  to  be  inserted.  Mention  must  be 
made,  however,  of  Professor  F.  V.  Hayden,  the  celebrated  leader  of  the  United  States  Geological 
Exploring  Expedition,  who  has  rendered  valuable  aid  to  make  this  Guide  complete  and  reliable, 
and  "written  for  it  an  admirable  account  of  the  Wonders  of  the  Yellowstone;  and  of  Clabencb 
Euro,  who  also  had  charge  of  the  United  States  Geological  Survey,  and  has  given  a  description 
of  the  Shoshone  Falls.  * 

Thomas  Moban,  who  more  than  any  other  artist  has  drawn  sketches  of  the  Wonders  of  the 
West,  and  Albebt  Biebstadt,  the  most  celebrated  of  painters  of  American  Scenery,  have  each 
added  to  the  Guide  rich  embellishments  and  illustrations. 

That  every  traveler  may  have  "bom  voyaqb"  is  the  labor  and  wish  of  the  Editor. 

Frederic  E.  Shearer. 


T.  Williams, 
ted  over  nine 
ith  faithful- 
igravors  and 
§20,000:  the 
1  the  world. 
it  more  than 

ndorsements 

a  luindrod 

books  have 

ery  possible 
ho  turns  his 
il  Kailroads, 
em  Scenery, 
led  in  detaiL 
on  of  routes 
1  invaluable 

the  interest 

irs  and  sap« 

langed  from 
and. 

,  or  conducts 
the  i^rogress 
bio,  like  the 
ad,  and  new- 
short,  since 
1  of  mining 
travel.  The 
regions,  un- 
imaginatioa 
lent  once  in 
to  the  same 
es.  Springs, 

emish  Peaks, 
>ad;  also  the 
:ful  richness 
which  it  is 
he  Colorado 
nt  of  Gray's 
ong's  Peak, 

interest  and 
ion  must  be 
!S  Geological 
md  reliable, 

>f  CliABENCB 

description 

iders  of  the 
,  have  each 


EARER. 


-  .-V^;^ 


'^Imsnvcs  0i  ®mvlnniSi  "^xiwth 


Wonders  of  Scenery  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 

PAanc  COAST  and  the  trans-continental  rail  roads. 


The  grandest  of  American  scenery  borders 
tfte  magnificent  route  of  the  Pacific  Railroads. 
Since  their  completion,  the  glorious  views  of 
mountain  grandeur  in  The  Yoscmile,  The  Yellow- 
itone,  have  become  known.  The  sublimities  of 
Colorado,  the  Rocky  Mountainn,  canons  of  Utah, 
and  the  Sierra  Nevadas,  have  become  famous. 
The  attractions  of  the  Far  West  for  mining, 
stock  raising  and  agriculture  have  added  mil- 
lions of  wealth  and  population. 

The  glorious  mountain  climate,  famed  for  its 
invigorating  effects  have  attracted  tourists  and 
health  seekers  from  the  whole  world.  The 
golden  land  of  California,  its  seaside  pleasure 
resorts,  its  fertile  grain  fields,  fruit  gardens 
and  flowers,  have  given  irresistible  charms  to 
visitors ;  until  now,  a  tour  across  the  Continent 
opens  to  the  traveler  a  succession  of  scenes, 
worthy  the  efforts  of  a  life  time  to  behold. 

Industries  have  arisen  by  the  opening  of  this 
^at  trans-continental  line  which  were  never  ex- 
pected or  dreamed  of  by  the  projectors  ;  the 
richest  of  mineral  discoveries  and  the  most  en- 


i'43b3,j 


couraging  of  agricultural  settlements  have  alike 
resulted,  where  little  was  thought  of,  and  stran- 
gest of  all,  the  tide  of  travel  from  Europe  to 
Asia.  China,  Japan  and  the  distant  isles  of  the 
Pacific  Ocean,  now  crosses  the  American  Conti- 
nent, with  far  more  speed  and  greater  safety. 

Palace  Car  Life  «'*  the  Pacific  Hail- 
road, — In  no  part  of  the  world  is  travel  made 
so  easy  and  comfortable  as  on  the  Pacific  Rail- 
road. To  travelers  from  the  East  it  is  a  con- 
stant delight,  and  to  ladies  and  families  it  is 
accompanied  with  absolutely  no  fatigue  or  discom- 
fort. One  lives  at  home  in  the  Palace  Car  with 
as  much  true  enjoyment  as  in  the  home  drawing- 
room,  and  with  the  constant  change  of  scenes 
afforded  from  the  car  window,  it  is  far  more  en- 
joyable than  the  saloon  of  a  fashionable  steamer. 
For  an  entire  week  or  more,  as  the  train  leisurely 
crosses  the  Continent,  the  little  section  and  berth 
allotted  to  you,  so  neat  and  clean,  so  nicely  fur- 
nished and  kept,  becomes  your  home.  Here  you 
sit  and  read,  play  your  games,  indulge  in  social 
conversation  and  glee,  and  if  fortunate  enough  to 


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possess  good  company  of  friends  to  loin  you,  the 
overland  tour  becomes  an  intense  delight. 

The  sleeping-cars  from  New  York  to  Chicago, 
proceeding  at  their  rushing  rate  of  forty  or  more 
miles  per  hour,  give  to  travelers  no  idea  of  the 
true  comfort  of  Pullman  car  life.  Indeed  the 
iirst  thousand  miles  of  the  journey  to  Chicago  or 
St.  Louis  has  more  tedium  and  wearisomeuess, 
and  dust  and  inconvenience  than  all  the  rest  of 
the  journey.  Do  not  judge  of  the  whole  trip  by 
these  first  days  out.  From  Chicago  westward 
to  Omaha  the  cars  are  far  finer,  and  traveling 
more  luxurious,  likewise  the  rate  of  speed  is 
slower  and  the  motion  of  the  train  more  easy  than 
on  roads  farther  eiist. 

At  Ceuncil  Bluffs  or  Kansas  City,  as  yoa 
■view  the  long  train  just  ready  to  leave  the 
depot  for  its  overland  trip,  the  appearance  of 
strength,  massiveness  and  majestic  power  ^ou 
will  admit  to  be  exceedingly  beautiful  and  im- 
pressive; this  feeling  is  stiU  more  intensified 
when  a  day  or  so  later,  alone  out  upon  the  up- 
land plains,  with  no  living  object  in  sight,  you 
stand  at  a  little  distance  and  look  down  upon 
the  long  train,  the  handsomest  work  of  science 
ever  made  for  the  comfort  of  earth's  travelers. 

The  slow  rate  of  speed,  which  averages  but 
twenty  to  thirty  miles  per  hour,  day  and 
night,  produces  a  peculiarly  smooth,  gentle 
and  easy  motion,  most  soothmg  and  agreeable. 
The  straight  track,  which  for  hundreds  of  miles 
is  without  a  curve,  avoids  all  swinging  motions  of 
the  cars;  sidelong  bumps  are  unknown.  The 
cars  are  connected  with  the  Miller  buffer  and 
platform,  and  make  a  solid  train,  without  the  dis- 
comforts of  jerks  and  jolts.  And  the  steady, 
easy  jog  of  tne  train,  as  it  leisurely  moves  west- 
ward, gives  a  feeling  of  genuine  comfort,  such  as 
no  one  ever  feels  or  enjoys  in  any  other  part  of 
the  world. 

A  Pullman  Pacific  car  train  in  motion  is  a 
grand  and  beautiful  sight  too,  from  within  as  well 
as,  from  without.  On  some  lovely,  balmy,  sum- 
mer day,  when  the  fresh  breezes  across  the  prai- 
ries induce  us  to  open  our  doors  and  windows, 
there  may  often  be  seen  curious  and  pleasant 
sights.  Standing  at  the  rear  of  the  train,  and 
with  all  doors  open,  there  is  an  unobstructed 
view  along  the  aisles  throughout  the  entire  length. 
On  either  side  of  the  train,  are  the  prairies,  where 
the  eye  sees  but  wildness,  and  even  desolation, 
then  looking  back  upon  this  long  aisle  or  avenue, 
.  he  sees  civilization  and  comfort  and  luxury. 
how  sharp  the  contrast. 

The  first  day's  ride  over  the  Pacific  Bail- 
road  westward  is  a  short  one  to  nightfall, 
but  it  carries  one  through  the  beautiful 
undulating  prairies  of  eastern  Nebraska,  the 
best  settled  portions  of  the  State,  where  are 
its  finest  homes  and  richest  soil.  Opening  sud- 
denly into  the  broad  and  ever  grand  Valley  of 
the  Platte,  the  rich  luxuriant  meadow-grass,  in 


the  warmth  of  the  afternoon  sun,  make  even  the 
most  des^x)ndii>g  or  prosai  ,feel  there  is  beauty  in 
prairie  life. 

On  the  second  day  out  from  Omaha  the 
traveler  is  fast  ascending  the  high  plains  and 
summits  of  the  Bocky  Mountains.  The  little 
villages  of  prairie  dogs  interest  and  amuse  every 
one.  Then  come  in  sight  the  distant  summits 
of  Long's  Peak  and  the  Colora<lo  Mountains. 
Without  scarcely  asking  the  cause,  the  tourist  is 
full  of  glow  and  enthusiasm.  He  is  alive  with 
enjoyment,  and  yet  can  scarcely  tell  why.  The 
great  plains  themselves  seem  full  of  interest. 

Ah!  It  is  tliis  keen,  beautiful,  refreshing, 
oxygenated,  invigoi.tting,  toning,  beautiful,  en- 
livening mountain  air  which  is  giving  him  the 
glow  ot  nature,  and  quickening  him  into  greater 
appreciation  of  this  grand  imjiressivo  country. 
The  plains  themselves  are  a  sight — most  forci- 
ble; snail  we  call  them  (he  blanhiess  of  desolation  f 
No,  for  every  inch  of  the  little  tiu-f  beneath  your 
feet  is  rich ;  the  soil  contcains  the  finest  of  food 
in  the  little  tufts  of  buffalo  grass,  on  which 
thousands  and  millions  of  sheep  and  cattle  may 
feed  the  year  through.  But  it  is  the  vastness  of 
wide-extending,  uninhabited,  lifeless,  uplifted 
solitude.  If  ever  one  feels  belittled,  'tis  on  the 
plains,  when  each  individual  seems  but  a  little 
mite,  amid  this  majesi//  of  loneliness.  But  the 
traveler  finds  with  the  Pullman  car  life,  amid 
his  enjoyments  of  reading,  playing,  conversation, 
making  agreeable  acquaintances,  and  with  con- 
stant glances  from  the  car  window,  enough  to 
give  him  full  and  happy  use  of  his  time. 

Night  time  comes,  and  then  as  your  little  berths 
are  made  up,  and  you  snugly  cover  yourself  up, 
under  double  blankets  (for  the  night  air  is  always 
crisp  and  cold),  perhaps  you  will  often  witness 
the  sight  of  a  prairie  fire,  or  the  vivid  fiashec 
of  lightning ;  some  of  nature's  greatest  scenes 
hardly  less  interesting  than  the  plains,  and  far 
more  fearful  and  awe-inspiring.  Then  turning 
to  rest,  you  will  sleep  amid  the  easy  roll  of  the 
car,  as  sweetly  and  refreshingly  as  ever  upon 
the  home-bed.  How  little  has  ever  been  writ- 
ten of  "  Night  on  the  Pacific  Railroad,"  the  de- 
lightful, snug,  rejuvenating  sleeps  on  the  Pacific 
Railroad. 

The  lulling,  quiet  life  by  day,  and  the  sound, 
refreshing  repose  by  night,  are  to  the  system  the 
best  of  health  restorers.  Were  there  but  one 
thing  tourists  might  feel  most  gratitude  for,  on 
their  overland  trip,  'tis  their  enjoyment  of  the  ex- 
hilarating mountain  air  by  day,  and  the  splendid 
rest  by  night.  But  as  our  train  moves  on,  it  in- 
troduces us  to  new  scenes.  You  soon  ascend  the 
Rocky  Mountains  at  Sherman,  and  view  there 
the  vast  mountain  range,  the  "Back  Bone  of  the 
Continent,"  and  again  descend  and  thunder  amid 
the  cliffs  of  Echo  and  Weber  Canons.  You 
carry  with  you  your  Pullman  house  and  all  its 
comforts,  and  from  your  little  window,  as  from 


TMS  F:^€iFi€  TQtmiBW. 


niiike  even  the 
TO  is  beauty  in 

Oinalia  the 
i\i.  plains  and 
H.     The  little 

I  amuse  every 
tant  summits 
o  Mountains. 

,  tho  tourist  is 
» ia  alive  with 

II  why.  The 
of  interest. 

il,  refreshing, 
beautiful,  en- 
virifir  hini  the 
n  into  greater 
isivo  country. 
t — most  forci- 
of  desolation  f 
beneath  your 
finest  of  food 
ss,  on  which 
d  cattle  may 
le  vastness  of 
less,    uplifted 
d,  'tis  on  the 
s  but  a  little 
?>»,    But  the 
ar  life,  amid 
conversation, 
nd  with  con- 
iv,  enough  to 
me. 

r  little  bertha 
yourself  up, 
air  is  always 
•ften  witness 
vivid  flashec 
atest  scenes 
tins,  and  far 
hen  turning 
1^  roll  of  the 
s  ever  upon 
r  been  writ- 
md,"  the  de- 
i  the  Pacific 

I  the  sound, 
system  the 
ire  but  one 
tude  for,  on 
it  of  the  ex- 
he  splendid 
'es  on,  it  in- 
1  ascend  the 
view  there 
Bone  of  the 
under  amid 
ions.     You 
and  all  its 
w,  as  f  roih 


your  little  boudoir  at  home,  you  will  see  the 
mighty  wonders  of  the  Far  West, 

It  is  impossible  to  ttdl  of  the  pleasures  and 
joys  of  the  palace  ride  you  will  have — tive  days — 
it  will  make  you  so  well  accustomed  to  car  life, 
you  feel,  when  you  drop  upon  the  wharf  of  San 
Francisco,  that  you  had  loft  genuine  comfort 
behind,  and  even  the  hotel,  with  its  cosy  parlor 
and  cheerful  fire,  has  not  its  full  recompense. 

Palace  car  life  has  evei^  day  its  fresh  and 
novel  sights.  No  railroad  has  greater  variety 
and  contrasts  of  :.cei  ^ry  than  the  Pacific  Bail- 
road.  The  great  plains  of  Nebraska  and  Wy- 
otaing  are  not  less  impressive  than  the  great 
Humboldt  Desert.  The  rock  majestiespf  Echo 
and  Weber  are  not  more  wonderful  tuan  the 
curiosities  of  Great  Salt  Lake  and  the  City  of 
Beseret.  And  where  could  one  drop  down  and 
finish  his  tour  more  grandly  and  beautifully 
than  from  the  vast  ice-towering  summits  of  the 
Sierras  into  the  golden  grain  fields  of  Califor- 
nia, its  gardens,  groves  and  cottage  blossoms  ? 

Should  the  traveler  return  home  by  the 
Southern  route,  neither  the  richness,  the  vast- 
ness, or  the  growth  of  civilization  in  the  Valley 
of  the  Platte,  the  transformation  of  the  desert 
at  Salt  Lake,  nor  the  grand  scenery  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains  or  the  Sierras,  nothing  on 
the  route  will  make  a  stronger  impression  than 
what  he  beholds  in  the  new_  regions.  The 
"Loop" — that  wonderful  achievement  of  en- 

Sineering  skill — the  orange  groves  of  Southern 
alifornia,  desolation  more  absolute  and  blank 
than  any  the  Central  or  Union  Pacific  exhibited, 
descent  below  the  level  of  the  sea,  numerous 
cactuses,  and  among  them  even  trees.  From 
lemons,  limes,  oranges,  olives,  pineapples  and 
bananas,  he  will  pass  to  a  region  worse  than 
sage-brush ;  to  where  not  even  a  blade  of  grass 
is  seen — the  region  of  sand-storms;  then  over 
mesas  rich  in  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  civiliza- 
tion; then  into  the  rich  grasses  and  fertile  val- 
leys of  the  Arkansas  and  Kansas,  amid  the 
nish  of  emigrants  and  springing  up  of  homes 
with  a  rapidity  like  that  of  the  growing  corn. 
Such  complete  transitions  have  inexpressible 
charms.  And  should  he  stop  "to  view  the 
landscape  o'er  "  from  La  Veta  Pass,  and  receive 
the  delightful  inspiration  of  Colorado's  moun- 
tain charms,  he  will  always  rejoice  that  he  was 
permitted  to  see  somewhat  of  the  grandeur  and 
greatness  of  this  Western  World. 

Practical  Hints  for  Comforts  by  the  Way. 
— To  enjoy  palace  car  life  properly,  one  always 
needs  a  good  companion.  This  obtained,  take 
a  section  together,  wherever  the  journey  leads 
you.  .  From  Chicago  to  the  Missouri  Kiver,  the 
company  in  sleeping-cars  is  usually  quiet  and 
refined,  but  beyond  there  is  often  an  indescrib- 
able mixture  of  races  in  the  same  car,  and  if 
you  are  alone,  often  the  chance  is  that  your 
"compagnon  du  voyage"  may  not  be  agreeable. 


It  is  impossible  to  order  a  section  for  one  person 
aione,  and  the  dictum  of  sleeping-car  arrange- 
ments at  Council  Blufia  requires  all  who  come 
to  take  what  berths  are  assigned.  But  if  you 
will  wait  over  one  day  at  Council  Bluffs  or 
Kansas  City,  you  can  make  a  choice  of  the 
whole  train,  and  secure  the  most  desirable 
berths.  When  your  section  is  once  located  at 
either  terminus  of  either  transcontinental  road, 
generally  you  will  find  the  same  section  re- 
served for  you  at  Ogdon  or  Deming,  through- 
Eassengers  having  usually  the  preference  of 
est  berths,  or  the  same  position  as  previously 
occupied. 

Fee  your  porter  on  the  sleeping-car  always — 
if  he  is  attentive  and  obliging,  give  him  a  dol- 
lar. His  attention  to  your  comfort,  and  care  of 
your  baggage  and  constant  watch  over  the  little 
articles  and  hand-satchel  against  loafers  on  the 
train,  are  worth  all  you  give  him.  Often  larger 
fees  are  given.  This  is  just  as  the  traveler 
feels.  The  porters  of  both  Pacific  Bailroads 
are  esteemed  specially  excellent,  obliging  and 
careful. 

Meals — The  trains  of  the  Union  Pacific 
Railroad  are  arranged  so  as  to  stop  a  sufficient 
time  for  meals.  In  placo  of  dining  at  Laramie, 
there  is  now  a  more  convenient  eating-station 
at  Bock  Creek,  a  little  farther  west.  Its  pleas- 
ant, cheerful  room  filled  with  plants,  and  the 
convenience  of  better  hours  for  meals,  add 
greatly  to  the  pleasure  of  the  overland  trip. 
At  Green  Biver  you  will  find  the  dining-room 
entrance  fairly  surrounded  with  curiosities, 
and  the  office  filled  with  oddities  very  amusing. 

Usually  all  the  eating-houses  on  both  the 
Pacific  Bailroads  are  excellent.  The  keepers 
have  to  maintain  their  culinary  excellence  under 
great  disadvantages,  especially  west  of  Sidney, 
as  all  food  but  meats  must  be  brought  from  a 
great  distance. 

Travelerti  need  to  make  no  preparations  for 
eating  on  the  cars,  as  me&ls  at  all  dining-halls 
are  excellent,  and  food  of  great  variety  is  nicely 
served — buffalo  meat,  antelope  steak,  tongue  of 
all  kinds,  and  always  the  best  of  beefsteaks. 
Laramie  possesses  the  reputation  of  the  best 
steak  on  the  Pacific  Bailroad.  Sidney  makes 
a  specialty,  occasionally,  of  antelope  steak.  At 
Green  Biver  you  will  always  get  nice  biscuit; 
at  Grand  Island  they  will  give  you  all  you  can 
possibly  eat;  it  has  a  good  name  for  its  bounti- 
ful supplies. 

At  Ogden  you  will  be  pleased  with  the  neat- 
ness and  cleanliness  of  the  tables  and  service. 
At  Cheyenne  the  dinners  are  always  excellent, 
and  the  dining-room  ia  cheerful.  To  any  who 
either  have  desire  to  economize,  or  mability  to 
eat  three  railioad  meals  per  day,  we  recommend 
to  carry  a  little  basket  with  Albert  biscuit  and 
a  little  cup.  This  can  be  easily  filled  at  all 
stopping-places  with  hot  tea  or  coffee,  and  a 


^m 


<< 


8 


TMM  p,-tciFw  roifMisr. 


flociabla  and  comfortable  glass  of  tea  indulged 
in  inflide  tho  car.  The  porter  will  lit  you  up  o 
nice  little  table  in  your  section,  and  spread  on 
a  neat  white  tablecloth. 

On  the  Union  Pacific,  nnd  Atchison,  Topeka 
and  Santa  Fe  roads,  are  Pullman  oarH;  on  tho 
CJentral  and  Southern  Pacific  are  Hilver  Palaoo 
Cars,  all  convenient,  neat  and  luxurious.  Tho 
dining-stations  of  tho  Central  Pacific  Railroad 
are  bountiful  in  their  sup2>lies;  at  all  uf  tliem 
fruit  is  ^iven  in  summer-time  with  great  free- 
dom. Fish  is  almost  always  to  be  had;  no 
game  of  value.  The  food,  cooking  and  service 
y  Chinese  waiters,  are  simijly  excellent.  Tho 
writer  has  never  eaten  a  nicer  railroad  meal 
than  those  served  at  Winnemticca,  Elko,  Battle 
Mountain,  and  especially  Sacramento.  The 
Humboldt  Desert  is  far  from  being  a  desert  to 
the  traveling  public,  for  its  eating-stations 
always  furnish  a  dessert  of  good  things  and 
creature  comforts. 

A  little  lunch-i)psket  nicely  stowed  with  sweet 
and  substantial  bits  of  food  will  often  save  you 
the  pain  of  long  rides  before  meals,  wheti  tbe 
empty  stomach  craves  food,and  failing  to  receive 
it,  lays  you  up  with  the  most  dismal  of  sick 
headaches;  it  also  serves  you  siilendidly  when- 
ever the  train  is  delayed.  To  be  well  on  the 
Pacific  Bailroad,  eat  at  r<f^ular hours,  andni7>c' 
mtss  a  menl.  Most  of  the  sickness  which  wo 
have  witnessed,  has  arisen  from  irregular  eat- 
ing, or  injudicious  attempts  at  economy  by 
skipping  a  meal  to  save  a  dollar.  We  have 
noticed  that  those  who  wei'o  regular  in  eating  at 
every  meal  passed  the  journey  with  greatest 
ease,  most  comfort,  and  best  health.  Those 
who  were  irregular,  skipping  here  and  there  a 
meal,  always  suflfered  inconvenience. 

In  packing  your  little  lunch-basket,  do  not 
forget  lemons  or  limes.  Canned  meats  and 
fruits  are  easily  earned.  Bread  and  milk  are 
easily  procured.  Avoid  all  articles  which  have 
odor  of  any  description. 

Lunch  counters  are  attached  to  all  eating- 
stations,  so  that  you  may  easily  procure  hot 
coflfee,  tea,  biscuit,  sandwiches  and  fruit,  if  you 
do  not  wish  a  full  meal. 

The  usual  price  of  meals  at  all  stations  over- 
land is  $1.UU;  at  Sacramento  75  cents,  and  at 
Lathrop  50  cents — the  cheapest  and  best  meals, 
for  the  money,  of  your  whole  tour.  For  cloth- 
ing on  your  overland  trip,  you  will  need  at 
Omaha,  the  first  day,  if  it  is  summer,  a  light 
spring  suit;  the  next  day,  a  winter  suit  at  Sher- 
man. Again,  at  Salt  Luke  City  and  the  Hum- 
boldt Desert,  the  thinnest  of  summer  suits,  and 
at  the  summit  of  the  Sierras,  all  your  under- 
clothing. We  can  only  advise  you,  as  you  have 
to  pasn  through  so  many  extremes  of  tempera- 
ture, to  always  wear  your  underclothing,  day 
and  night,  through  the  overland  trip,  and  add 
im  overcoat  if  the  air  grows  chilly. 


Beware  of  the  quick  transition  from  tho  hot 
ride  over  the  Sacramento  or  San  Joaquin 
Valley  o  the  cold  sea  air  on  the  ferry  from 
Oakland  to  San  Francisco.  Invalids  have  been 
(^hilled  through  with  this  unexpected  Seabreeze, 
and  even  tho  most  hardy  do  not  love  it.  Keep 
wnrni  and  keep  inside  the  boat.  Thus,  reader, 
wo  have  helped  you  with  kindly  hints  how  to 
cujoy  your  trip.  Nc^w,  let  us  glance,  as  wo  go, 
nt  each  scene  of  industry  where  our  tour 
will  take  ns. 

Baggage — All  baggage  of  reasonable  weight 
can  be  checked  from  any  Eastern  city  direct  to 
Omaha,  but  is  there  re-checked. 

At  Omaha  all  baggage  is  weighed,  and  on  all 
excess  of  over  101)  pounds,  passtnigcrs  will  pay 
15  cents  per  pound.     This  is  imperative. 

To  Check  Baggage.— Be  at  every  depot  one- 
half  hour  or  more  l>ef ore  the  departu  i '    f  trains. 

Railroad  tickets  must  always  bo  shown  when 
baggage  is  checked. 

At  San  Francisco  the  Pacific  Transfer  Com- 
pany will  take  your  trunk  to  any  hotel  or 
private  residence  for  50  cents.  Their  agent  is 
on  every  train;  you  will  save  time  by  giving 
him  your  check.  The  company  is  wholly  re- 
liable, and  your  baggage  will  be  stored  by  it, 
if  you  desire,  on  reasonable  terms.  All  un- 
claimed baggage  on  the  Central  Pacific  Railroad 
is  sent  to  this  company  for  safe-keeping. 
Should  your  l)aggage  reach  San  Francisco 
twenty-four  hours  in  advance  of  your  arrival, 
look  for  it,  therefore,  at  110  Sutter  Street,  San 
Francisco. 

The  agents  of  this  company  are  also  agents 
for  the  United  Carriage  Company,  and  will  fur- 
nish carriages,  so  as  to  secure  strangers  from 
extortion  and  imposition.  Hotel  coaches  will 
also  be  found  at  the  depot  in  San  Francisco, 
and  their  runners  on  the  Oakland  ferryboat. 
To  a  first-class  hotel  the  charge  for  a  passenger 
is  50  cents;  to,  not  from,  other  hotels  passengers 
are  usually  conveyed  without  charge. 

Horse-cars  run  from  the  wharf  or  depot  to 
all  hotels. 

Transfer  Coaches.— In  all  Western  cities 
there  is  a  line  of  transfer  coaches,  which,  for  the 
uniform  price  of  50  cents,  will  take  you  and 
your  baggage  direct  to  any  hotel,  or  transfer 
you  at  once  across  the  city  to  any  depot.  They 
are  trustworthy,  cheap,  and  convenient.  The 
agent  will  always  pass  through  the  train  before 
ari-ival,  selling  transfer  tickets  and  checks  to 
hotels. 

At  Salt  Lake  City,  horse-cars  run  from  the 
depot  direct  to  the  hotels;  there  is  also  an 
omnibus  transfer.    Price,  50  cents. 

Hotel  Charges  and  Rooms  — The  uniform 
prices  of  board  in  the  West  are  $3.00  to  $4.50 
per  day  at  Chicago  and  San  Fi-ancisco;  $3.00  to 
$4.00  per  day  at  Omaha,  Denver  and  Salt  Lake 
City. 


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If  traveling  with  Luiios,  it  is  f^jod  policy, 
when  wit'ain  100  miles  of  each  city  where  you 
expect  to  stop,  to  tc>legraph  to  your  hotel  in 
advance,  vequesting  nice  rooms  reserved,  always 
mentioning  that  you  have  ladies. 

Carringea. —  whenever  disposed  to  take 
horses  and  carriage  ir,v  a  ride,  look  out  with 
sharp  eyes  for  the  tricks  of  tho  tradej  if  no 
price  or  time  is  agreed  upon,  yon  will  have  to 

Eay  dearly,  and  tho  fartlier  -v-Ht  you  go  the 
ire  of  horse  Hi-sh  grows  dea)'  .  (thougli  tin* 
value  per  animal  rai)i(lly  grows  \  >.^).  Engiigo 
your  livery  cai'efuUy  lit  ho  luut  h  per  hour,  and 
then  choose  your  time  i  suit  your  wislies. 
Ten-dollar  bills  m(>lt  qu'  '  >r  in  curriagi;  rides 
than  in  any  other  *'  vain  show." 

Courtesy. — Without  much  exception,  all 
ndlroad  ohicers,  railroad  coi.luetors,  Pullman 
car  conductors,  are  g(!rtlemen  in  manners, 
courteous  and  civil.  No  passenger  ever  gains  a 
point  by  loud  orders,  or  strong  und  forcible 
demands.  You  are  treated  resp(H'tfullv  by  all. 
and  the  same  is  expected  in  return,  tho  days 
of  boisterous  times,  rough  railroad  men  and 
bailies  in  the  Far  West,  are  gone,  and  there  is 
08  much  civility  there,  often  juoro,  than  you 
will  lind  near  home. 

Mailioad  Tickets. — These  should  Lo  pur- 
chased only  at  reliable  offices,  and  from  respon- 
sible agents.  The  route  should  bo  decided 
beforehand;  tho  purchaser  shuuld  fully  under- 
stand •whether  his  ticket  is  limited  in  time  or 
stop-over  privileges,  and  how  limited,  before 
he  purchases.  Through-tickets  are  always 
cheaper  and  more  convenient  than  tickets  from 
point  to  point. 

ROUTES. 

.Boute  ITo.  1  from  Boston.— >Thig  is  via 
the  Hoosac  Tunnel,  direct  from  Boston  to 
Albany,  there  connecting  with  the  New  York 
Central.  Passengers  by  tho  New  York  Central 
havo  choice  of  three  routes  to  Chicago.  (1)  The 
Canada  Southern  to  Detroit,  ^ving  the  best 
view  of  Niagara  Falls,  and  forming  the  favorite 
route  from  Buffalo  to  Chicago,  7/ia  Detroit  and 
the  Michigan  Southern  Railroad.  (2)  The 
Great  Western,  crossing  the  Niagara  River  on 
the  famous  Suspension  alridge,  the  old  and 
well-known  route.  (3)  The  Lake  Shore  and 
Michigan  Southern,  through  Cleveland  and 
Toledo.  The  directness  makes  the  route  a  con- 
venient one,  but  the  scenery,  excepting  Niagara 
Falls,  is  quite  uninteresting. 

Boute  No.  2  from  Boston  is  via  the  New 
^fork,  New  Haven  and  Hartford  Railroad  to  New 
York  city. 

Boute  No.  3  from  Boston  is  the  New  York 
and  Boston  Air  Line,  via  Willimantic,  from  Bos- 
ton to  Brooklyn,  at  which  point  trains  are  con- 
veyed without  breaking  to  Jersey  City,  anc".  run 
ihenc<i  via  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad. 


Boston  or  New  York  passengers  for  California 
by  the  Sontliern  roiuo  latiy  go  from  Toledo 
direct  to  Kansas  City,  via  the  Waboali,  St.  Louis 
and  Pa.)iflo,  or  from  Chicago  via  the  sumo  line,  or 
via  the  Chicago,  Rock  Island  and  Pacitlc,  or  the 
Chicago,  Burlington  and  Quiney,  ortlioCliieago, 
Alton  and  St.  Louis.  Wagner  sleeping-cars  are 
run  on  the  New  York  Central  from  Boston  and 
New  York  to  Chicago. 

Route  Ko.  1  from  New  York— Take  tho 
Pennsylvania  Central  Railroad,  Avhich  leaves 
foot  of  Desbrosses  Strcset,  by  ferry,  to  Jersey 
City.  Tlireo  through-trains  Iciivd  each  day. 
To  see  tlio  richest  scenery,  take  tho  7Ko*tiing 
train  and  y<iu  will  have  a  good  view  of  nearly 
tho  entire 'Stuto  of  Pennsylvania  hj  daylight, 
the  valley  of  the  Susnuchanna  and  Juniata,  and 
tho  famous  Horse-Shoe  Bend  by  moonlight. 
Tlio  Pennsylvania  Railroad  is  "  always  on  time" 
tlie  most  reliable  in  its  connections.  It  has 
track  tanks  from  which  the  locomotives  of  ex- 
l)ress  ti'ains  tako  water  while  running  forty 
iiiiles  an  hour,  a  f(;aturo  contributing  to  Tast 
travel,  used  by  no  other  i-ailroml  in  tho  world. 

It  is  tho  tnie  type  of  American  progress  and 
safety  iu  railroading,  and  is  unsurpassed  in  any 
respect. 

Possengers  from  New  York  may  also  visit 
Washington  by  this  route  without  extra  charge. 

To  Kansas  City,  passengers  by  this  route 
may  go  from  Pittsburgh  via  Chicago,  or  direct 
to  St.  Lonis  and  Kansas  City. 

The  pleeping-cars-  on  the  Pennsylvania  Rail- 
road are  of  the  Pullman  pattern,  and  ruu  from. 
New  York  to  Chicago  or  St.  Louis. 

Boute  No.  2  from  New  York — Leave  via 
the  Erie  Railroad  from  foot  of  Chamliers  or 
West  Twenty -third  Street.  Tho  sleeping-cars 
on  the  Erie  Railroad  belong  to  tho  Pullman 
Company.  The  scenery  along  the  Erie  Rail- 
road n)y  all  means  take  the  morning  train)  is 
specially  fine,  and  at  points  is  remarkably  lovely. 
The  sleephig  and  dining-cars  accompany  the 
train  to  Chicago.  The  routo  passes  via  Salaman- 
ca, Atlantic  and  Great  Western  and  Chicago  ex- 
tensions of  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railroad,  direct, 
without  change,  to  Chicago.  Passengers  also 
can  take  other  sleeping-cars  of  the  train,  if  they 
wish,  which  will  convey  them  diroct  to  Buffalo 
and  Niagara  Falls,  where  there  is  direct  connec- 
tion via  the  Lake  Shore  Railroad  or  Michigan 
Central  to  Chicago. 

Boute  So.  3  from  New  York  is  via  the 
New  York  Central  and  Hudson  River. 

The  charming  scenery  of  the  Hudson  is  well 
known.  Passengers  by  the  New  York  Central 
have  a  choice  of  three  routes  to  Chicago: 
1.  The  Canada  Southern  to  Detroit,  giving  the 
jest  view  of  Niagara  Falls;  the  Michigan  Cen- 
tral from  Detroit  to  Chicago.  The  Cauade 
Southern  is  the  great  favorite  route  between. 
Buffalo  and- Detroit.    2.  The  Great  Western, 


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crossing  the  Niagara  Biver  on  the  famous  Sus- 
pension Bridge,  the  old  and  well-known  route. 
3.  The  Lake  Shore  and  Michigan  Southern, 
through  Cleveland  and  Toledo. 

Bouto  No.  4  is  via  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio 
Bailroad.  This  company  uses  the  line  of  the 
Pennsylvania  Bailroad  fiom  New  York  City  to 
Baltimore,  but  possesses  the  shorttst  line  irova. 
Washington  to  Chicago  or  Cmcinnati.  Its 
scenery,  on  the  mountain  division,  between 
Harper's  Ferry  and  Parkersburg,  is  grand  and 
full  of  historic  interest.  Its  dining-stations  are 
exceedingly  well  kept.  Pullman  cars  run 
through  to  and  from  St.  Louis  and  Chicago. 

California  travelers  choosing  this  route  east, 
will  include  Washington,  Baltimore,  Philadel- 
phia and  New  York,  with  their  numerous 
«cenes  an.1  objects  of  interest,  on  one  ticket,  as 
in  the  case  of  the  Pennsylvania  Central. 

From    Philadelphia. — Tourists    generally 

E refer  the  Pennsylvania  Central,  the  shortest 
ne  to  Chicago,  though  many  often  wish  to 
visit  Baltimore  and  Washington,  and  go  thence 
to  see  the  scenery  along  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio 
Bailroad,  and  continue  westward  vta  Cincin- 
nati to  St.  Louis. 

They  maj'  also  go  via  Harrisburg,  Pa.  and 
the  Northern  Central  Bailroad  past  Watkin's 
Olen  to  Eochest«r  or  Buffalo,  ancf  also  via  the 
Delaware  Water  Gap,  and  either  Syracuse  or 
Binghamton ;  but  the  moat  direct  route  is  via 
Pittsburgh  and  Fort  Wayne  to  Chicago,  and 
for  southern  passengers  via  St.  Louis  to  Kansas 
City.  Or  from  New  York  to  Chicago  they  may 
take  the  Pan  Handle  route  via  Columbus  and 
Logausport. 

i!'rom  Beltimore  and  Washington.— Tour- 
ists have  choice  of  either  the  Baltimore  and 
Potomac,  Northern  and  Pennsylvania  Central, 
or  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Bailroad.  Pullman 
oars  run  on  either  road. 

From  Cincinnati — Toiarists  have  choice  of 
two  routes:  1st,  via  Ohio  and  Mississippi  Bail- 
road direct  to  St.  Louis,  passing  over  the 
St.  Louis  Bridge,  with  omnibus  transfer  to 
other  railroads;  or,  2d,  va  Indianapolis, 
Bloomington  and  Western  Bailroad,  which  runs 
trains  direct  to  Burlington,  la.,  or  to  Chicago. 
Pullman,  sleeping-cars  run  on  either  route. 

From  St.  Iiouis.— The  Wabash,  St.  Louis 
and  Pacific  is  the  most  direct  route,  being 
ton  hours  in  advance  of  all  others  to  Omaha. 

From  Chicago — Three  roads  run  across 
Iowa  direct  to  Council  Bluffs. 

The  Chicago,  Book  Island  and  Paolflo 
Bailroad  ijrosses  the  Mississippi  Biver  atDaven- 

Eort.  The  view  from  the  railroad  bridge  is  very 
eautiful,  and  the  scenery  along  the  whole  lino, 
especially  through  Iowa,  is  also  l^eautiful.  It 
is  the  Central  Line  West  from  Chicago,  and 
especially  noted  for  excellent  railroad  manage- 
ment.   The  Palace  sleeping-cars  of  this  line  are 


owned  by  the  company,  and  unexcelled  in 
comfort  and  beauty,  while  the  charges  are  less 
than  routes  of  other  sleeping  cars.  The  road 
bed  is  extremely  fine,  being  laid  with  steel 
rails. 

Through-sleeping-cars  run  from  Chicago 
westward,  morning  and  evening,  to  Council 
Bluffs,  Leavenworth,  Peoria,  and  connecting 
points  with  other  railroads. 

At  Chicago  the  trains  of  this  road  run  into 
the  Union  Depot,  connecting  for  the  East 
with  the  Pittsbiirgh,  Fort  Wayne  and  Chi- 
cago Baih'oad  without  transfer  across  the 
city. 

Chicago,  Bock  Island  and  Pacific  Bail- 
road to  Kansas  City.— This  is  also  a  direct 
line  from  Chicago  to  Kansas  City  or  Leaven- 
worth, which  passengers  may  take  for  Califor- 
nia via  the  Southern  route.  The  sleeping-cars 
and  other  conveniences  are  like  those  on  the 
line  between  Chicago  and  Council  Bluffs, 

Between  Chicago  and  Kansas  City  or  Leaven- 
worth, there  is  a  third  route,  also  direct — that 
of  tiie  Chicago  and  Alton  Bailroad.  On  Edl 
these,  sleeping-cars  are  run,  and  the  time  made 
is  about  the  same. 

The  Chicago,  Burlington  and  Quinoy 
Bailroad  crosses  the  Mississippi  at  Burling- 
ton, la.,  and  passes  through  Southern  Iowa. 
Pullman  cars  are  run  on  this  road,  including  the 
sixteen-wheel  dining-cars,  with  unexceptionable 
meals.  Passengers  going  East  highly  enjoy  the 
change  from  the  eating-houses  of  Utah  and 
Wyoming  to  the  luxury  of  meals  in  every  re- 
spect first-class,  and  this  feature  of  the  road 
makes  it  a  great  favorite  with  u     .7  ladies. 

The  smoking-cars  are  fitted  with  elegant 
high-backed  rattan  revolving  chairs,  and  other 
comforts  wholly  unknown  to  travelers  a  few 
years  ago. 

The  Chicago,  Burlington  and  Quincy 
Bailroad  to  Kansas  City. -This  is  a  direr*; 
through-line  to  either  Kansas  City  or  Leaven- 
worth, and  deservedly  popular.  It  has  all  the 
advantages  of  the  line  between  Chicago  and 
Omaha. 

The  Chicago  and  Northwestern  Bailroad 
crosses  the  Mississippi  at  Clinton,  la,  Tha 
catmg-stations  on  this  route  ore  all  very  superior. 
Better  meals  are  not  oft«n  Ber\'ed  outside  of 
first-class  hotels.  This  is  the  shortest  line  lie- 
tween  Chicago  and  Omaha,  and  's  popular 
throughout  all  the  Northwest.  Pullman  sleep- 
ing-cars ai'e  run  on  this  line. 

Note. — West  of  Chicago  the  Pacific  through- 
trains  leave  in  the  morning,  with  sleeping-cars 
through  to  Council  Bluffs  without  change. 

From  St.  Louis  to  Omaha.— Three  routes 
are  open  to  the  tourist.  The  Missouri  I'aciflc 
Bailroad  runs  up  on  the  south  side  of  the  Mis- 
souii  Biver,  with  Pullman  cars,  direct  for  Kan- 
sas City,  and  the  Wabash,  St,  Louis  and  Pacific 


itmm  ^iiciFic  wQWMmT. 


11 


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charges  are  less 

cars.     The  road 

laid  -with  steel 


from  Chicago 
ing,  to  Council 
and  connecting 

is  road  ran  into 
for  the  East 
^ayne  and  Chi- 
fer    across   the 

Paoifio  Bail- 

is  also  a  direct 
City  or  Leaven- 
take  for  Cfilifor- 
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ke  those  on  the 
icil  Bluffs. 

iCityorLeaven- 
Iso  direct — that 
ailroad.  On  all 
d  the  time  made 

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ppi  at  Burling- 
oouthern  Iowa, 
id,  including  the 
unexceptionable 
liighly  enjoy  the 
>8  of  Utah  and 
sala  in  every  re- 
tire of  the  road 

■7  ladies. 
1  with   elegant 
lairs,  and  other 
iravelera  a  few 

and  Quincy 

'his  is  a  direr  <; 
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It  has  all  the 
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tern  Bailroad 
iton,  la.  Th« 
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4'ed  outside  of 
lortest  line  lie- 
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Pullman  sleep- 

aciflc  through- 
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it  change. 
-Three  routes 
issouri  I'aciflc 
le  of  the  Mis- 
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Liis  and  Pacific 


an  the  northern  side  of  the  river,  direct  to 
Oonncil  Bluffs. 

The  Missouri  Pacific,  in  direct  connection 
with  the  Kansas  City,  St.  Joseph  and  CouncU 
Bluffs  Bailroad,  runs  through-sleeping-cars 
from  St.  Louis  direct  to  Council  Bluffe. 

From  St.  Louis  to  Kansas  City,  the  most 
direct  route  is  by  the  Missouri  Pacmc  Baili'oad. 
Pullman  sleeping-cars  are  run  on  this  road. 

Council  Blnfikj  Iowa,  Railroad  Transfer 
Groimds. — This,  as  well  as  Omaha,  is  a  trans- 
fer point  for  all  passengers,  and  the  starting- 
point  of  all  trains  on  the  Union  Pacific  BaU- 
load.  A  recent  decision  of  the  United  States 
Suin-eme  Coui-t  fixes  the  terminus  of  the  Pa c? tic 
Bailroad  on  the  east  side  of  the  Missouri  Biver. 
The  company  has  complied  with  the  decision, 
and  the  necessity  for  bridge  transfer  is  now  en- 
tirely removed.  At  Council  Bluffs  is  also  the 
western  terminus  of  the  Iowa  railroads.  A 
Union  Depot  for  all  railroads  has  been  erected, 
and  all  passengers,  baggage,  mails,  freight,  etc., 
and  trains  for  the  West,  stai-t  from  this  point  as 
well  as  Omaha.  Passengers,  however,  usually 
prefer  to  go  to  Omaha  for  a  visit.  The  city  of 
Council  Bluffs  is  located  about  three  miles  east 
from  the  Missouri  Biver,  and  contains  a  popu- 
lation of  18,121.  Its  record  dates  from  as  early 
as  1804,  when  the  celebrated  explorers,  Lewis 
and  Clai'k,  held  a  oouncU  with  the  Indians, 
which  fact,  together  with  the  physical  peculi- 
arity of  the  high  bluffs  overlooking  the  town, 
has  given  it  its  name — Council  Bluffs. 

Tho  city  is  one  of  great  enterprise,  with  a 
large  number  of  public  buildings,  stores,  State 
institiitions  and  dwellings,  and  is  the  nucleus 
of  a  large  trade  from  surrounding  Iowa  towns, 
and  is  supported  by  a  rich  agricultural  com- 
munity. It  is  intimately  connected  with  Omaha 
—with  frequent  trains  over  the  bridge,  by  a 
railroad  ferry,  attached  to  the  dummy  train,  an 
invention  of  P.  F.  Shelby.  It  will  doubtless 
come  more  largely  hereafter  into  prominence 
as  a  railroad  town,  though  the  commercial  im- 
portance of  Omaha,  and  its  trade  with  the  Far 
West,  will  doubtless  be  for  a  long  time  to  come 
for  superior.  The  general  offices  of  the  Union 
Pacific  Bailroad  Company  will  remain  at  Omaha. 

At  Council  Bluffs  the  Union  Pacific  Bailroad 
Company  have  reserved  ample  grounds,  over 
1,000  acres,  to  accommodate  its  own  traffic  and 
that  of  connecting  railroads,  and  extensive 
preparations  will  be  made  to  accommodate  the 
vast  traffic  of  freights,  passengers,  baggage  and 
stock,  which  daily  arrives  and  departs. 

The  past  year  over  4,000  cars  of  stock  were 
transferred  over  the  bridge,  and  there  is  ample 
room  for  extension.  Here  are  also  located  the 
stock  grounds  of  the  company,  vivich  in  time 
will  render  the  locality  a  large  stock-market; 
for  hero  begins  the  great  grazing  belt  of  the 
continent — that  which  affcrJs  jure  sustenance 


for  stock  and  a  fair  degree  of  safety  without 
shelter  the  year  round.  Large  herds  of  sleek 
cattle  feed  upon  this  natural  pasturage  on 
every  hand,  and  often  mingle  with  bands  of 
antelope  and  other  game.  From  this  west  to 
the  Pacific  Ocean,  north  into  the  British  Pos- 
sessions and  to  the  southernmost  limits  of  the 
continent,  cattle  graze  and  fatten  summer  and 
winter,  needing  no  more  attention  to  assure 
their  growth  and  safety  than  the  bufialo. 
Nearly  all  readers  must  imderstand  that  the 
grasses  west  of  here  cure  where  they  grow, 
retaining  all  their  wonderfully  nutritious  ele- 
ments, and  tiiat  different  herbs  unknown  in 
the  east  also  afford  a  perfect  winter  diet.  Fur- 
ther, that  the  snows  are  light  and  div,  ever 
shifting  before  the  prairie  winds,  and  that 
sheltered  and  wooded  valleys  are  conveniently 
interspersed,  affording  all  the  protection  that 
cattle  have  ever  seemed  to  need.  It  is  readily 
seen,  therefore,  that  in  all  this  vast  territory 
must  be  thousands  upon  thousands  of  oppor- 
tunities for  men  to  produce  beef,  after  the 
nucleus  for  a  herd  is  purchased,  at  the  simple 
outlay  of  herding  and  brandinfr.  It  is  demon- 
strated by  hundreds  of  reliable  stockmen  that 
the  loss  from  all  causes  will  not  exceed  two  per 
cent,  of  the  entire  herd  per  annum. 

Sleeping-Car    Expenses The    tariff   to 

travelers  is  as  follows,  with  all  companies,  and 

all  in  greenbacks: 

One  berth.  New  York  to  Chicago,  one 

and  one-half  days,  by  any  route....  $5  GO 
One  berth.  New  York  to  Cincinnati,  one 

and  one-half  days,  by  Pennsylvania 

Bailroad 4  00 

One  berth.  New  York  to  Cincinnati,  one 

and  one-half  days,  by  other  routes..    5  00 
One  l)erth.  New  York  to  St.  Louis,  two 

days,  by  any  route 5  00 

One   berth,    Chicago  or  St.  Louis,  to 

Omaha,  by  any  route 3  00 

One  berth,  Omolia  to  Ogden,  by  Pacific 

Eaikoad 8  00 

One  bertM,  Ogden  to  San  Francisco,  by 

Central  Pacific  Bailroad 6  00 

One  berth,  St.  Louis  to  Kansaa  City. ...     2  00 

One  berth,  Chicago  to  Kansas  City 3  00 

One  berth,  Kansas  City  to  Deming 7  00 

One  berth,  Deming  to'San  Francisco ...     7  00 

MKALS. 

All  meals  at  all  railroad  dining-staticns 

east  of  Omaha 75 

Except  dinners  on  Erie  and  New  York 

Central 100 

All  meals  on  Union  Pacific  Bailroad ....     1  GO 
All  meals  on  CentrJl  Pacific  Bailroad, 

first  day,  currency 1  00 

All  meals  on  Central  Pacific  at  Sacramento        75 
All  meals  on  Central  Pacific  at  Lathrop..        50 
Meals  on  the  Southern  Pacific  and  Atchi- 
son, Topeka  and  Santa  Fe  Beads.  75c.  to  1 00 


p^ 


9K 


12 


;  i 


I 


Curiosities  of  Historjf. — To  whom  the 
honor  belongs  of  first  proposing  the  plan  of  a  rail- 
road to  the  Pacific,  history  can  never  fully  deter- 
mine. VVliitney  offered  to  build  it  for  a  grant  of 
thirty  miles  in  width  along  its  track,  and  it  was 
look  'd  upon  as  the  freaky  fancy  of  a  monomaniac. 
Benton,  too,  the  famous  statesman,  was  once 
aglow  with  enthusiasm  over  the  subject,  and  be- 
gan to  agitate  the  project,  but  it  was  considered 
the  harmless  fancy  of  an  old  politician.  And  in 
1856,  when  General  Fiemont  was  nominated, 
th«  Platform  of  the  National  Republican  Party 
contained  a  clause  in  its  favor — but  it  was  re- 
garded as  a  piece  of  cheap  electioneering  "  bun- 
combe," and  decidedly  absurd.  Perhaps  the 
earliest  record  of  a  devoted  admirer  of  this  project 
was  that  of  John  Plumbe,  in  1836.  He  was  a 
Welshman  by  birth,  au  American  by  education 
and  feeling,  a  civil  engineer  by  profession,  and 
lived  at  Dubuque,  la.  He  began  to  agitate 
the  project  of  a  railroad  from  the  great  lakes 
across  the  Continent  to  the  Territory  of  Oregon. 
From  that  time  to  his  death,  in  California,  sev- 
eral years  after  the  discovery  of  gold,  he  never 
failed  to  urge  his  project ;  earnestly  and  ardently 
laboring  to  bring  it  I  *ore  Congress,  and  attempt- 
ing to  secure  a  beginning  of  the  great  work.  To 
far-seeing  statesmen,  the  idea  naturally  occurred 
that  in  course  of  time  there  would  arise  on  the 
Pacific  Coast  another  empire  of  trade  and  com- 
merce and  industry,  either  at  San  Francisco,  or 
the  Puget  Sound,  which  would  in  time,  become 
the  rival  of  New  York  and  the  East,  and  at 
once  the  project  was  taken  up  and  encouraged 
by  Carver,  Wilkes,  Benton,  Whitney,  Burton  and 
others  ;  but  ail  such  ideas  met  with  indifference 
and  ridicule. 

In  1844,  when  Fremont  made  his  famous  ex- 

Elorations  across  the  plains,  which  has  earned 
im  so  world-wide  a  reputation,  so  little  was 
known  of  the  geography  of  that  country,  that  his 
reports  were  considered  an  immense  acquisition 
CO  the  collection  of  books  of  physical  knowledge 
of  our  country.  This  section  was  fully  2,300 
miles  in  distance,  entirely  vacant,  no  settlement, 
entirely  occupied  by  roving  bands  of  Indians, 
and  tiie  undisturbed  home  of  the  buffalo  and 
antelope.  In  that  year  Chicago  was  but  an 
obscure  village,  on  a  prairie  without  a  single 
inhabitant.  And  not  a  single  line  of  railroad 
was  built  from  the  Atlantic  westward  beyond 
the  Alleghanies,  and  on  the  Pacific  only  one 
American  flag  covered  a  feeble  colony.  The  dis- 
covery of  gold  in  California  had  its  effect  in 
directing  public  attention  to  the  unknown  ric.ies 
of  its  Western  border;  and  at  last  Congress 
■woki  up  to  the  need  ol  thorough  explorations 
and  investigations.  In  March,  1853,  Congress 
made  its  first  appropriation  to  exploie  the  Far 
Wait,  and  ascertain  if  there  was  really  a  practi- 
cable route  to  the  Pacific.  In  1854,  Congress  ap- 
propriated $190,000  additional ;  and,  as  a  result, 


nine  surveying  parties  were  organized  and  pur* 
sued  their  work.  Ten  routes  were  surveyed 
between  the  32d  and  49th  parallel  of  latitude ; 
the  eastern  ends  ranging  all  the  way  from  Fulton, 
Ark.,  to  St.  Paul,  Minn., — and  the  western  ter- 
minal points  from  San  Diego  to  Puget  Sound 
The  lengths  of  these  routes  varied  from  1,533  to 
2,-J90  miles. 

The  continued  gold  discoveries  brought  an  im- 
mense flow  of  population  to  the  Pacific  Coast,  and 
California,  more  alive  to  the  necessities  of  such 
roads  than  the  East,  after  numerous  agitations,  at 
last  really  made  the  first  initiatory  experimenl. 
Early  in  1861  there  was  organized  at  Sacramento, 
Cal..  the  Central  Pacific  Railroad  Company,  who 
by  the  appointment  of  T.  D.  Judah,  as  chief  en- 
gineer, began  the  first  and  most  thoi  ough  railroad 
survey  ever  made  on  the  Sierras. 

Congress  then  woke  up,  and  in  July,  1862,  the 
first  national  charter  wjis  granted.  As  a  curious 
fact  in  the  act — the  utmost  limit  of  time  allowed 
for  the  completion  of  the  road  was  fixed  at  July 
1, 1876.  In  October,  1863,  the  preliminary  organ- 
ization of  the  company  was  completed.  A  capi- 
tal of  one  hundred  million  dollars  authorized,  and 
the  first  contract  for  construction  begun  in  1864, 
but  no  practical  progress  was  made  till  1865, 
when  on  the  5th  of  November,  the  first  ceremony 
of  breaking  giound,  at  Omaha,  was  celebrateef. 
Then  vvas  begun  the  great  work  ;  the  rapid 
progress  of  which  afterward  was  a  world-wide 
sensation,  astounding  engineers,  capitalists  and 
even  governments,  with  the  almost  reckless  dar- 
ing of  construction. 

Necessity  and  Benefits  to  the  Govern- 
ment. 

From  1850  to  18fi0.  the  population  of  the  far 
Western  States  and  Territories  increased  from  a 
mere  handful  to  the  large  number  of  554,301 
persons,  and  in  the  whole  area  of  2.000  miles 
there  had  been  built  only  232  miles  of  telegraph, 
and  32  miles  of  railway.  The  United  States 
Goverimient  had  established  forts  ^jid  trading 
stations,  and  the  year  1870  saw  the  completion 
of  the  Pacific  Railroad  line.  Congress  and  the 
whole  country  were  astonished  to  see  the  rapid 
rate  of  development,  and  the  enormou-*  expense 
of  government  military  service.    In  that  year  the 

Eopulation  had  increased  to  1.011,971,  there  had 
een  built  over  13,000  miles  of  telegraph  lines ; 
there  were  completed  over  4,000  miles  of  rail- 
road ;  all  representing  the  gigantic  capital  of 
1363.750.000.  In  the  reports  of  distinguished 
statesmen  to  the  United  States  Senate,  occur 
these  remarks  which  show  the  .spirit  of  the  times 
then      Senator  Stewart  of  California,  says  : 

"Tlie  cost  of  the  overland  service  for  the  whol 
period,  from  the  acquisition  of  our  Pacific  Coash 
possessions  down  to  the  completion  of  the  Pacific 
Railroad  was  .18,000,000  per  annum,  and  con< 
stantly  increasing." 


>, 


18 


ganized  and  pur- 
s  were  surveyed 
allel  of  latitude; 
way  f  1  om  Fulton, 
the  western  ter- 
to  Puget  Sound 
■ied  from  1,533  to 

?s  brought  au  im- 
Pacific  Coast,  and 
Jcessities  of  such 
■ous  agitations,  at 
itory  experiment, 
d  at  Sacramento, 
d  Company,  who 
dah.  as  chief  en- 
hoi  ough  railroad 
;. 

in  July,  1862,  the 
'd.     As  a  curious 
tof  time  allowed 
vas  fixed  at  July 
eliminary  organ- 
ipleted.   'a  capi- 
'8  authorized,  and 
n  begun  in  1864, 
made  till  1865, 
le  first  ceremony 
was  celebrated. 
|ork  ;    the   rapid 
as  a  world-wide 
,  capitalists  and 
ost  reckless  dar- 


the  Govern- 

ation  of  the  far 
nciea.'^ed  frnm  a 
iber  of  554,301 

of  2.000  miles 
lesof  telegraph, 
!  United  States 
•ts  ^j|id  trading 
the  completion 
ngress  and  the 
)  see  the  rapid 
)rmou'<  expense 
In  that  year  the 
,971,  there  had 
elegraph  lines; 
)  miles  of  rail- 
utic  capital  of 
t  distinguished 

Senate,  occur 
rit  of  the  times 
nia,  says : 
:e  for  the  who? 
r  Pacific  Coasi. 
n  of  the  Pacific 
lum,  and  con^ 


As  a  curious  fact  of  national  economy,  these 
figures  will  show  the  result  of  the  Pacific  Rail- 
road in  saving  to  the  United  States  Government : 

From  the  building  of  the  roail  to  1876,  the 
cost  of  transportation  to  the  government  was 
as  follows: 

Amount  cash  paid  to  railroad  companies  for 
one-half   charge  of    transportation    jier 

?ear,  about  ?Jl,i;(K),0(H)  per  annum,  say  for 
years— 18(i!»  to  187ti,  $8,400,000 

The  cost  to  the  government  of  military  trans- 
portation in  1H70,  was  ,f«,(t(M),(M)0  per 
annum,  and  increasingover  ?!il,OOO,000  per 
year.  In  187(>,  would  nave  been  over  5il4,- 
OOO.OOO.  Average  for  7  years,  at  §10,000,000 
per  year,  §70,000,000 

Total  sa'*  f  ng  in  7  years  to  United  States  Govern- 
ment,. 862,600,000 

The  actual  amount  of  interest  during  tliistime 
paid  by  the  United  Stales  'Creasin-y  on 
ronds  Issued  in  behalf  of  tlie  rirlniad, 
average  interest,  ?53,8'J7,  129  per  year. 
Total  for  7  years,  $27,279,006 

Net  profit  over  all  expenses  to  United  States,     842,320,094 

These  figures  do  not  include  vast  amounts  of 
incidental  items  which  would  have  been  of  incal- 
culable trouble,  or  immense  expense  to  the 
United  States,  such  as  the  indemnities  con- 
stantly being  paid  by  the  United  States  for  de- 
struction of  life  and  private  property  by  Indians ; 
also  depredations  of  Indians  on  property  in  gov- 
ernment service,  increased  mail  facilities  and 
decreased  mail  expenses,  prevention  of  Indian 
wars,  the  rapid  sale  of  public  lands,  and  the 
energetic  development  of  the  mining  interests  of 
all  the  Territories. 

If  these  can  all  be  correctly  estimated,  the  net 
gain  to  the  United  States  by  the  building  of  the 
Pacific  Railroad,  is  over  Jifti/  millions  of  dollars. 

Hon.  Henry  Wilson,  in  a  speech  before  the 
Senate,  Thirty-seventh  Congress,  boldly  said: 
"  I  give  no  grudging  vote  in  giving  away  either 
money  or  land.  I  would  sink  $100,000,000  to 
build*  the  road,  and  do  it  most  cheerfully,  and 
think  1  had  done  a  great  thino;  for  my  country. 
What  are  $75,000,000  or  $100,000,000  m  opening 
a  railroad  across  the  central  regions  of  this  Con- 
tinent, that  shall  connect  the  people  of  the 
Atlantic  and  Pacific,  and  bind  us  together? 
Nothing.  As  to  the  lands,  I  do  not  grudge 
them." 

It  is  a  significant  fact,  that  while  the  heat  and 
activity  of  Congressional  discussion  was  most 
earnest  in  aid  and  encouragement  of  the  project, 
the  following  sentiments  were  unanimously  enter- 
tained by  all  the  members  of  Congress  : 

1.  That  the  road  was  a  necessity  to  the  govern- 
ment, and  if  not  built  by  private  capital,  must  be 
built  in  time  with  public  funds  alone. 

2.  To  encourage  the  capitalists  of  the  country 
to  come  forward  and  aid  the  project,  the  govern- 
ment were  willing  to  give  one-half  the  funds 
necessary  as  a  loan,  and  were  then  merely  doing 
the  least  part  of  the  whole. 

8.  That  no  expectations  were  entertained  that 


the  road  would  ever,  from  its  own  meanp,  be 
able  to  refund  the  advance  made  by  the  United 
States,  and  no  other  thought  was  ever  entertained, 
save  of  the  benefits  to  accrue  to  the  public  from 
the  opening  of  this  grand  highway  of  national 
interest.  No  expectations  were  formed  of  the 
ability  of  the  company  to  pay  .or  repay  the 
interest  on  the  loan,  but  one  thought  was  con- 
sidered, that  the  building  of  the  road  was  ample 
compensation  and  service  in  its  vast  aid  to  in- 
dustry, and  its  saving  in  transportation. 

As  editor  of  this  Guide,  knowing  well  the  re- 
sources  of  the  Far  West,  we  positively  assert  that 
the  government  has  already,  in  seven  years,  realized 
in  both  savings  and  sales,  enough  money  to  liquidate 
one-third  the  whole  principal,  and  accrued  interest 
of  the  government  loan,  and  in  less  than  twenty 
years  from  the  opening  of  the  road,  the  government 
gain  will  be  greater  than  the  whole  of  the  financial 
aid  it  has  ever  given.  The  Pacific  Railroad  is  th^ 
rirht-hand  saving  power  of  the  United  States. 

Discouragements.  —  Notwithstanding  all 
that  the  government  had  done  tc  encourage  it 
(by  speeches),  the  work  languished.  Capitalists 
doubted  it.  The  great  war  of  the  rebellion 
attracted  the  attention  of  every  one,  and  the  gov- 
ernment, after  its  first  impulses,  grew  indifferent. 
A  few  bold  men  determined  to  work  incessantly 
for  itr.  completion.  And  one  of  the  results  of  the 
gre." ,  war  was  the  conviction  in  the  minds  of 
every  one  —  of  a  closer  Union  of  the  States. 
"  Who  knows,"  said  one,  "  but  California  and  the 
whole  Pacific  Coast  may  secede,  and  where  are  we 
then?  We  can  do  nothing  to  retain  them.  The 
Pacific  railway  must  be  built.  It  shall  be  built  to 
keep  our  country  together." 

The  chief  engineer  of  the  railroad.  Gen.  G.  M. 
Dodge,  in  complimenting  the  directors  on  the  day 
of  the  completion  of  the  last  mile  of  track, 


"  The  country  is  evidently  satisfied  that  you 
accomplished  wonders,  and  have  achieved  a 
work  which  will  be  a  monument  to  your  energy, 
your  ability,  and  to  your  devotion  to  the  enter- 
prise, through  all  its  gloomy,  as  well  as  bright 
periods,  for  it  is  notorious  that  notwithstanding 
the  aid  of  the  government,  there  was  so  little 
faith  in  the  enterprise,  that  its  dark  days — when 
your  private  fortunes,  and  your  all  was  staked 
on  the  success  of  the  project — far  exceeded  those 
of  sunshine,  faith  and  confidence." 

The  lack  of  confidence  in  the  project,  even  in 
the  West,  w&o  so  great  that  even  in  localities 
which  were  to  be  specially  benefitted  by  its  con- 
struction, the  laborers  even  demanded  their  pay 
before  they  would  perform  their  day's  work,  so 
little  faith  had  thejy  in  the  payment  of  their 
wages,  or  In  the  ability  of  the  company  to  suc- 
ceed in  their  efforts. 

Probably  no  enterprise  in  the  world  has  been 
80  maligned,  misrepresented  and  criticised  as 
this,  but  now  it  is,  by  unbiased  minds,  pro* 


14 


i    fl 


nounced,  almost  without    exception,  the    best 
new  road  in  the  United  States. 

Rapid  I*roffre»H,  —  Though  chartered  in 
1862,  yet  the  first  grading  vas  not  done  until 
1864,  and  the  first  rail  laid  in  July,  1865.  At 
that  time  there  was  no  railroad  coinniunication 
from  the  East ;  a  gap  of  140  miles  existed  be- 
tween Omaha  and  Des  Moines,  and  over  this  it 
waa  impossible  to  get  supplies. 

For  500  miles  westward  of  the  Missouri  River, 
the  country  was  completely  destitute  of  timber, 
fuel,  or  any  material  with  which  to  build  or 
maintain  a  road,  save  the  bare  sand  for  the  road- 
bed itself,  everything  had  to  be  transported  by 
teams  or  steamboiits,  hundreds  and  thousands 
of  miles.  Labor,  and  everything  made  by  labor, 
was  scarce  and  high. 

Railroad  ties  were  cut  in  Michigan  and  Penn- 
sylvania, and  shipped  to  Omaha  at  a  cost,  often, 
of  $2.50  f)er  tie.  TJven  the  splendid  engine,  of 
seventy  horse-po'^t'er,  used  at  Omaha  for  the 
company's  works,  was  transported  in  tcngons 
across  the  prairies  from  '  )es  Moines,  the  only  way 
to  get  it.  Shops  had  to  be  built,  forges  erected, 
and  machinery  put  in  place,  and  the  supplies, 
feven,  for  the  subsistence  of  the  laborers  had  to  be 
brought  by  river  from  the  East;  yet  it  was  all 
done. 

As  the  Westerners  concisely  express  it,  "  The 
wind  work  had  all  been  done,  and  grading  now  be- 
gan." 

In  1865,  40  miles  of  track  were  laid  to  Fre- 
mont. In  1866,  260  miles  were  laid.  In  1867, 
240  miles  were  laid,  which  included  the  ascent 
to  Sherman.  By  January  1,  1868,  there  had 
been  completed  540  miles.  In  1868,  to  May  10, 
1869,  555  miles  more  were  laid,  and  the  road 
finished — seven  years  in  advance  of  the  time  set 
by  Congress,  and  the  time  actually  spent  in 
construction  was  just  three  years,  s/x  months,  and 
fen  days. 

To  show  the  enormous  amount  of  materials 
required  in  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad  alone, 
there  were  used  in  its  construction  300,000  tons 
of  iron  rails,  1,700,000  fish-plates,  6,800,000  bolts, 
6,126,375  cross-ties,  23,,505,5()0  spikes. 

Fast  UuUdinff. — Day  after  day  the  average 
rate  of  building  rose  from  one  to  two,  three  and 
five  miles.  Many  will  remember  the  daily  thrill 
of  excitement  as  the  morning  journals  in  the 
East  made  the  announcements  of  so  many  more 
mdes  nearer  the  end,  and  as  the  number  of  com- 
pleted miles,  printed  in  the  widely  circulated 
advertisements  of  the  company,  reached  1000, 
the  excitement  became  intense,  as  the  rival  roads 
now  were  fairly  aglow  with  the  heat  of  compe- 
tition, and  80  near  each  other.  In  .previous 
months  there  had  existed  a  little  engmeering 
rivalry,  good  natured,  but  keen,  as  to  the  largest 
number  of  miles  each  could  lay  in  one  day.  The 
Union  Pacific  men  laid  one  day  six  miles  ;  soon 
after  the  Central  followed  suit  by  laying  <«i><tn, 


The  Union  Pacific  retaliated  by  laying  seven  and 
a  half ;  to  this  the  Central  sent  the  announce- 
ment that  they  could  lay  ten  miles  in  one  day  ; 
to  this  Mr.  Diirant,  the  vice-president,  sent  back 
a  wager  of  $10,000  that  it  could  not  be  done.  The 
pride  and  spirit  of  the  Central  Par-ific  had  now 
been  challenged,  and  they  prepared  for  the  enor- 
mous contest,  one  of  extraordinary  magnitude 
and  rapidity.  The  29th  day  of  April,  1869,  was 
selected  for  the  decision  of  the  contest,  as  there 
then  remained  but  14  miles  of  track  to  bring  a 
meeting  of  the  roads  at  Promontory  Point. 

Work  began  ;  the  ground  had  already  been 
gaded  and  ties  placed  in  position,  and  at  the 
Kignal  the  cars  loaded  with  rails  moved  forward. 
Four  men,  two  on  each  side,  seize  with  their  nip- 
pers the  enr's  of  the  rails,  lift  from  the  car  and 
carry  them  to  their  place  ;  the  car  moves  steadily 
along  over  the  rails  as  fast  as  they  are  laid.  Im- 
mediately after  follows  a  band  of  men  who  attach 
the  plate  and  put  the  spikes  in  position  ;  next  a 
force  of  Chinamen  who  drive  down  the  spikes 
solid  to  their  homes,  and  last  another  gang  of 
Chinamen  with  shovels,  picks,  etc.,  who  ballast 
the  track.  The  rapidity  of  all  these  motions, 
which  required  the  most  active  of  exercise  and 
alert  movements,  was  at  the  rate  of  144  feet  of 
track  to  every  minute.  By  1.30  p.  m.,  the  layers 
had  placed  eight  miles  of  track  in  just  six  hours. 
Resuming  work  again,  after  the  noon  rest,  the 
track-laying  progiessed,.  and  at  7  i'.  m.,  exactly, 
the  Central  men  finished  their  task  of  10  miles, 
with  200  feet  over.  Mr.  James  Campbell,  the 
superintendent  of  the  division,  then  seizing  a 
locomotive  ran  it  over  the  ten  miles  of  new  track 
in  forty  minutes,  and  the  Union  men  were  satis- 
fied. This  was  the  greatest  feat  of  railroad 
building  ever  known  in  the  world,  and  when  it 
is  known  how  vast  the  materials  reqr  •  '  to  sup- 
ply this  little  stretch  of  ten  miles,  t;ie  reader  is 
fairly  astonished  at  the  endurance  o{  the  laborers. 
To  put  this  materiiU  in  place  over  4,000  men 
had  been  constantly  employed.  The  laborers  on 
that  day  handled  25,800  cross-ties,  3,520  iron  rails, 
55,000  spikes,  7,040  fish-plates,  and  14,080  bolts, 
the  weight  of  the  whole  neing  4,362,000  pounds. 
Upon  both  roads,  for  a  year  previous,  there  had 
been  remarkable  activity. 

A  total  force  of  20,000  to  25,000  workmen  all 
along  the  lines,  and  .5,000  to  6,000  teams  had 
been  engaged  in  grading  and  laying  the  track  or 
getting  out  stone  or  timber.  From  500  to  600 
tons  of  materials  were  forwarded  daily  from 
either  end  of  the  lines. 

The  Sierra  Nevadas  suddenly  became  alive  with 
wood-choppers,  and  at  one  place  on  the  Truckee 
River  twenty-five  saw-mills  went  into  operation 
in  a  single  week.  Upon  one  railroad  70  to  100 
locomotives  were  in  use  at  one  time,  constantly 
bringing  materials  and  supplies-  At  one  time 
there  were  30  vessels  en  mule  from  New  York 
via  Cape  Horn,  with  iron,  locomotives,  rails  and 


WME  FmamW  W@WMl§W. 


Ifr 


aying  seven  and 
the  announce- 
es  in  one  day ; 
dent,  sent  back 
jt  be  done.   The 
"anific  had  now 
ed  for  the  enor- 
lary  magnitude 
^pril,  1869,  was 
outest,  as  there 
ack  to  bring  a 
ory  Point, 
d  already  been 
on,  and  at  the 
noved  forward, 
with  their  nip- 
m  the  car  and 
moves  steadily 
'  are  laid.    Im- 
nen  who  attach 
osition ;  next  a 
)wn  the  spikes 
lother  gang  of 
c,  who  ballast 
these  motions, 
•f  exercise  and 
of  144  feet  of 
'.  M.,  the  layers 
just  six  hours. 
noon  rest,  the 
1'.  M.,  exactly, 
sk  of  10  miles, 
Campbell,  the 
then  seizing  a 
Bs  of  new  track 
.len  were  satis- 
at  of   railroad 
i,  and  when  it 
eqr-   ■'  tosup- 
I,  t;ie  reader  is 
o{  the  laborers, 
yer  4,000  m..n 
'he  laborers  on 
3,520  iron  rails, 
i  14,080  bolts, 
82,000  pounds, 
ous,  there  had 

►  workmen  all 

00  teams  had 
ig  the  track  or 
m  500  to  600 
d  daily  from 

ame  alive  with 

1  the  Truckee 
into  operation 
)ad  70  to  100 
ne,  constantly 

At  one  time 
rn  New  York 
Ives,  rails  and 


rolling  Btock,  destined  for  the  Central  Pacifio 
Bailroad;  and  it  is  a  curious  fact,  that  on  sev- 
eral consecutive  days  more  miles  of  track  were 
ironed  by  the  railroad  companies  than  it  Avas 
possible  for  an  ox-team  to  draw  a  load  over. 
And  when  at  last  the  great  road  was  completed, 
the  fact  suddenly  flashed  upon  the  nation  that 
a  road  once  so  distrusted,  and  considered  too 
gigantic  to  be  possible,  was  constructed  an 
actual  distance  of  2,221  milos,  in  /ess  than  five 
years,  of  which  all  but  100  miles  was  done  be- 
tween January  1,  1866,  and  May  10,  1869— 
three  year Sy  four  months  and  ten  days. 

OMAHA, 

Railroads, — Tho  first  railroad  that  leached 
this  city  from  the  East  was  the  Chicago  and 
Northwestern — the  first  train  over  it  arriving 
on  Sunday,  Jauuaiy  17,  1867.  Then  followed 
the  Kansas  City,  Council  Bluffs  and  St.  Joseph, 
the  Chicago,  Kock  Island  and  Pacifio,  and  the 
Burlington  and  Missouri  Biver  of  Iowa  ^oper- 
ated by  the  Chicago,  Burlington  and  Quracy). 
Aiter  thos  i  came  the  Sioux  City  and  Pacific,  tho 
Omaha  and  Northwestern  (in  recent  years  called 
the  Omaha  and  Northern  Nebraska),  and  the 
Omaha  and  Southwestern,  and  the  Omaha  and 
Eepublican  Valley.  The  Omaha  and  South- 
western is  now  operated  by  the  Burlington  and 
Missouri  Biver  Bailroad  in  Nebraska.  The 
latter  extends  to  Lincoln,  the  capital  of  the 
State,  thc'n  westwai-d,  uniting  with  the  Union 
Pacific  at  Kearney  Junction.  It  has  a  branch 
from  its  main  lines  from  Crete  to  Beatrice,  a 
thriving  town  near  the  southern  bounda;y  of 
the  State.  It  also  controls  another  line  running 
from  BrownviUe,  on  the  Missouri  Eiver,  north 
to  Nebraska  City;  thence  west  through  Lincoln 
(where  it  connects  with  the  main  line)  to  York, 
in  the  central  part  of  the  State.  During  1880 
the  Omaha  and  Northern  Nebraska  became  a 
part  of  the  Chicago,  St.  Paul,  Minneapolis  and 
Omaha  Eailway,  and  is  now  known  as  tho 
Omaha  Division  oJf  that  line.  A  connection 
with  the  St.  Paul  Line  was  made  November 
16,  1880,  and  tho  running  of  trains  from  Omaha 
direct  to  St.  Paul  and  Minneapolis  comjienced 
a  few  weeks  later.  A  branch  of  this  line  is  also 
being  extended  towards  the  beautiful  valley  of 
the  Elkhorn,  one  of  the  garden-spots  of  Ne- 
braska. Other  railroads  are  contemplated, 
among  them  a  branch  of  the  Missouri  Pacific 
Bailroatl  down  the  west  bank  of  the  Missouri 
from  Omalia  to  Atchison.  When  completed,  it 
will,  with  the  Missouri  Pacifio  Main  Line,  give 
a  competing  route  to  St.  Louis  and  the  sea- 
board. At  Atchison  it  will  connect  with  the 
Atchison,  Topeka  and  Santa  Fe,  forming  an 
almost  direct  route  through  Kansas  to  tho 
mines  of  Southern  Colorado,  New  Mexico  and 
Arizona.  As  the  Atchison  Boad  has  recently 
met  the  Southern  Pacific,   Omaha  will  have 


another  outlet  to  the  Pacific  Coast.  The  Omaha 
ani  Bepublicon  Valley,  operated  by  the  Liuoa 
Pacific  Company,  runs  from  Omaha  to  Stroms- 
burg,  about  125  miles  west,  and  it  is  already- 
doing  a  large  and  increasing  business.  It  will 
be  extended  westward  as  the  country  develops, 
and  population  increases.  A  branch  of  this 
line  js  also  in  operation  from  Valparaiso  to 
Lincoln. 

Besides  these  railroads,  Omaha  has  the  Mis- 
souri Biver  on  her  front,  giving  the  city  cheap- 
steam  commtinication  from  the  center  of  Mon- 
tana to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  with  the  whole 
Mississiijpi  Valley  and  its  tributaries  as  far  east, 
as  Pennsylvania.  The  city  has  become  tho  most 
important  railroad  center  west  of  Chicago  and 
St.  Louis,  and  as  the  greatest  popular  "  travel 
center  "  on  the  Missouri  Biver,  stands  unrivaled. 
As  a  matter  of  interest  we  mention  the  fact  that, 
in  1875  thero  were  55,000  local  arrivals  and  de- 
Ijartures.  In  1876  there  were  70,000,  and  in 
1878,  73,330,  and  in  1880  an  increase  of  twenty- 
five  per  cent,  over  1878.  The  city  is  the  east- 
ern gateway  of  the  mineral-bearing  regions  of 
the  West,  and  the  products  of  British  Colum- 
bia, the  Pacific  Coast,  the  Sandwich  Islands 
and  Asia,  find  their  way  through  her  limits  to 
the  Eastern  markets.  Within  a  circle  having  a 
rr.dius  of  five  hundred  miles,  of  which  Omaha 
is  the  center,  there  are  upwards  of  12,000,000 
people  and  26,000  miles  of  railroad,  radiating 
in  every  direction.  Within  this  circle  ia  the 
Black  Hills  region,  whose  rapid  development  is 
already  attracting  attentiop.  Beyond  this  limit 
on  the  west,  are  Western  Colorado,  the  greater 
jjart  of  Wyoming,  Utah,  Idaho,  Montana,  Ne- 
vada and  California.  Omaha  alrendy  has  a 
controlling  influence  over  the  greater  part  of 
the  mineral  trade  of  these  States  and  Territories, 
of  which  we  shall  speak  hereafter. 

The  general  ofiices  of  the  Union  Pacifio  are 
located  here.  They  are  in  an  elegant  building' 
which  catches  the  eye  of  the  traveler  as  one  of 
the  notable  objects  as  he  approaches  the  city. 
It  was  completed  in  1878,  at  a  cost  of  858,453.74, 
and  the  citizens  are  very  proud  of  this  fine 
structure.  The  general  offices  of  the  Burling- 
ton and  Missouri  Biver  in  Nebraska,  the  Omaha  < 
and  Southwestern,  and  the  Omalia  and  Repub- 
lican Valley  Bailroads  are  also  located  here.  In 
addition  to  these,  the  general  agencies  of  the- 
Chicago,  Sioux  City,  St.  Louis,  St.  Paul  and 
Eastern  lines  have  handsome  offices.  The  Blue, 
Red,  Empire  and  other  fast  freight  lines  are 
represented  in  the  city,  and  it  is  probable  that 
the  Baltimore  and  Ohio,  Chicago,  Milwaukee 
and  St.  Paul,  and  other  competing  lines  will 
push  their  tasi  freight  lines  to  a  connection 
with  the  Union  Pacifio  and  secure  a  proportion 
of  the  immense  trans-continental  traffic. 

The  Omaha  and  Bepublican  Valley  Railroad 
has  taken^steps  looking  to  the  early  completion. 


17 


'--^ 


Mi 


-      71        ^. 


m^^?^-^ 


%?•,- 


ssua 


iuUdtug. 


of  a  series  of  railroad  lineH  that  will  "gridiron" 
the  State.  One  line  will  run  to  Atchison,  Kansas ; 
another  to  Beatrice,  another  into  the  Republican 
Valley,  another  to  Oraud  Island  and  up  the 
Lou^i  Fork,  and  another  to  the  Niobrara  Biver 
in  the  north. 

Manufacturer. — In  manufectures  Omaha 
is  now  the  most  extensive  manufacturing  point 
on  the  Missouri  River,  the  amount  for  1880  be- 
ing in  the  neighborhood  of  $12,000,000.  She 
has  an  oU  mill  which  supplies  the  extensive 
demand  for  linseed  oil  and  oil  cake,  and  pro- 
motes the  growth  of  flax  in  Nebraska,  necessi- 
tating at  an  early  day  the  erection  of  flax  mills 
in  the  city  for  the  manufacture  of  that  article; 
extensive  white,  lead  works,  completed  in  the 
spring  of  1878;  a  safe  factory,  nail  factory,  shot 
tower,  several  breweries,  two  distilleries,  foun- 
dries and  machine  shops,  carriage  and  wagon 
shops, three  packinghouses.flour  mills  and  other 
manufactories  in  active  operatiot  or  contemplat- 
ea.  Anong  the  lattj^r  are  a  grape  sugar  factory, 
starch  factory,  etc.  Among  the  principal  estab- 
lishments in  operation  ai'o  the  machine  shops, 
car  works  and  foundry  of  the  Union  Pacific 
Railroad,  and  the  Omaha  smelting  works.  The 
shops  of  the  railroad  occupy,  with  the  round- 
house, about  thirty  acres  of  land  on  the  bottom 
adjoining  the  table  land  on  which  most  of  the 
city  proper  is  built.  Their  disbursements 
amount  to  $2,600,000  per  annum  for  labor  and 
material,  while  for  office  and  manual  labor  alone 
the  Union  Pacific  pays  out  annually  in  Omaha 
over  one  million  dollars.  The  value  of  this 
business  and  the  location  of  these  shops  to  the 
city  can,  therefore,  readily  be  seen,  and  are  no 
small  factors  in  Omaha's  prosperity. 

Busitiesit  of  Omalui  —Facts  IntereMinff 
and  Curious. — When  Omaha  was  first  entitled 
to  the  honor  of  a  post-office,  the  story  is  told 
that  the  first  postmaster  (still  living  in  the  city) 
used  his  hat  for  a  post-office,  which  ho  naturally 
carried  with  him  wherever  he  went,  delivering 
the  mail  to  anxious  individuals  who  were  wait- 
ing eag<3rly  for  him,  or  chased  and  overtook  him. 
Twenty  years  after,  Omaha  possesses  a  hand- 
some stone  post-office  and  a  custom-house  worth 
8350,000  (in  which  there  is  a  bonded  warehouse), 
and  the  finest  building  west  of  the  Mississippi 
River.  Tha  post-office  has  frequently  handled 
twenty  tons  of  overland  and  local  mail  ma!;ter 
per  day.  The  total  business  at  this  post-office 
for  1880  was  about  $2,375,000,  and  the  total 
number  of  letters,  newspat»ers  and  postal  cords, 
collected  and  delivered,  was  18,192,543.  In  1861 
the  first  telegraph  reached  Omaha,  and  its  only 
office  was  for  several  years  the  terminus  of  the 
Paciflo  Telegraph.  Now  there  are  thirty -four 
telegrcph  wires  radiating  in  all  directions;  fif- 
teen offices,  employing  seventy  operators.  The 
number  of  messages  per  day  averages  10,500,  of 
which  one-third  relates  to  Pacific  Railroad  busi- 


ness, and  including  press  dispatches,  local  and 
Pacific  Coast,  about  25,000,000  words  were  re- 
peated. The  total  value  of  school  property  in 
Omaha  is  $430,975,  and  the  citjjr  is  growing  so 
rapidly  that  severai  more  brildmgs  are  needed. 
Omaha  is  the  headquarters  of  the  army  of  the 
Platte,  and  disburses  about  $1,700,000,  besides 
an  annual  transportation  account  with  the  Union 
Pacific  Railroad  of  $675,000.  The  office  of  In- 
ternal Revenue  Collector  for  Nebraska  is  also 
located  here.  In  1865  Omaha  did  not  have  a  sin- 
gle manufacturing  establishment.  In  1880,  her 
manufactures  amounted  to  about  $12,000,000, 
the  annual  increase  being  from  twen  ty  to  twen^- 
five  per  cent.  Here  are  located  the  largest  smelt* 
ing  and  refining  works  on  the  North  American 
Continent;  the  Omaha  smelting  works,  which 
employ  150  men,  and  do  an  annual  business  of 
$5,500,000.  Seven  breweries  turn  out  30,000 
barrels  of  beer.  One  distillery  pays  the  govern- 
ment $850,000  per  year,  and  there  are  upward  of 
fifty  smaller  enterprises,  among  which  is  a  nota- 
ble industry — the  manufacture  of  brick — over 
12,000,000  feck  being  turned  out  of  four  brick 
yards.  The  bank  capital  and  surplus  exceed 
$800, 000.  In  overland  times  before  the  building 
of  the  Pacific  Railroad,  or  just  at  its  commence- 
ment, the  wholesale  trade  of  Omaha  was  won- 
derful— single  houses  handling  as  much  as 
$3,000,000.  Since  that  time  the  courses  of  trade 
have  been  so  divided  that  the  largest  sales  now 
of  any  wholesale  establishment  do  not  exceed 
$1,500,000.  Perhaps,  the  best  index  of  the 
enormous  trade  Omaha  is  gaining  is  in  the  in- 
crease of  the  shipments  and  receipts  of  live 
stock,  grain,  currency,  precious  metals,  etc., 
etc.  The  receipts  of  cattle  at  Omaha  were  as 
follows: 

»o. 

During  18T6 60,300 

187? 96,500 

The  estimates  place  the  receipts  at  150,000  for 
1881,  and  large  stock  yards  will  be  built  the 
present  year.  Omaha  packing  houses  slaugh- 
tered 72,000  hogs  in  1880.  In  1874  the  grain 
business  amounted  to  about  300,000  biishels  per 
annum.  In  six  months  ending  March,  1881, 
the  receipts  amounted  to  about  4,000,000  bush- 
els, and  the  corn  crop  of  the  lost  year  had  not 
then  begun  to  move.  Omaha  has  two  grain 
elevators,  and  an  elevator  with  a  storage  capa- 
city of  1,000,000  bushels  is  now  being  erected. 

As  to  the  movements  of  the  precious  metals 
into  and  through  Omaha,  we  find  that  the  Black 
Hills  ores  aio  appearing  freely  in  the  city,  and 
since  the  opening  of  the  Colorado  Division  of  the 
Union  Pacific  Railway  from  Cheyenne  to  Den- 
ver, it  is  getting  its  share  of  the  ore  and  base 
bullion  of  that  State.  It  is  a  noticeable  fact 
that  nearly  all  of  the  shipments  of  fine  gold  and 
silver  from  New  Mexico  now  find  their  way  to 
the  Eastern  cities  through  Omaha.  The  gold 
and  silver  products  of  the  country  west  of 


35,200 


18 


TMM  ^SfCiFIC  TOimiST. 


Omaha  are  again  on  the  increase,  as  will  be  seen 
by  reference  to  these  statistics: 

GOIiD  AND  BZLVEB  PBODUOT  OF  THB  WEST. 

1869 $61,600  000  18TS $70,789,087 

1870 06,000,000  1876 86.836,173 

1871 66,863,000  1877 »3.336,8(p4 

1878 63,943,877  1878 81,164,63'i 

1873 71,642.623  1879 7fl,8l0,801 

1874 72,428,206  1880 80,167,936 

Showing  an  increase  in  the  gold  and  silver 
production  in  1880  over  1869  of  »18,667,936.  In 
1880,  the  estimated  lead  yield  was  95,742,390, 
of  which  the  Omaha  smelting  works  msoinfao- 
tnred  91,000,000  into  lead  bars  for  shipment 
East.  ^  This  amount  being  equal  to  the  lead  yield 
•of  niinois  and  Missouri  combined. 

In  tracing  the  routes  over  which  the  precious 
metals  of  Colorado,  New  Mexico,  Utah,  Nevada 
and  the  West  come,  they  must  not  be  considered 
possible  and  temporary,  but  as  the  actual  and  per- 
manent routes  over  which  these  metals  have  been 
passing  into  and  through  Omaha,  viz. : 

MOVEMENT  OF   BULLION  AND   ORES. 


During  1873, 
"  1874, 
"  1876, 
"  1876, 
"        1877, 


«21,fi00,000 
41,907,0i)0 
49,848,542 
B6,73:»,100 
60,060,368 


Showing  an  increase  in  1877  over  1873  of 
f28,560,368. 

The  increase  in  the  eastward  flow  of  gold  in 
1877  over  1876  was  85,227,102.  The  decrease  in 
silver  for  the  same  time  owing  to  the  Asiatic  de- 
mand and  the  coinage  of  trade  dollars  at  San 
Francisco,  was  $11,890,834.  Had  not  these  in- 
fluences been  at  work,  it  is  safe  to  assume  that 
the  passage  of  gold  and  silver  into  and  through 
Omaha  for  1877  would  have  amounted  to 
964,000,000  or  two-thirds  of  the  entire  product 
of  the  country.  This  does  not  include  the 
amount  contained  in  the  ore,  base  bullion  and 
lead  passing  over  the  Union  Pacific  roads : 


During  1876, 
"  1876, 
"        1877, 


64,429,400  pounds. 
71,768,.352        " 
111,006,060        " 


Showing  an  increase  in  1877  over  1875  of 
•46,'576,650  pounds.  Of  the  amount  in  1875, 
the  Omaha  smelting  works  received  29,638,826 
pounds.  The  gain  being  proportionate  for  the 
two  succeeding  years.  lu  1875,  not  a  car  load 
of  ore  or  bullion  was  handled  at  Kansas  City 
from  the  Kansas  Pacific  Railroad.  In  1877  the 
receipts  of  ore  in  that  city  were  23,964,250 
pounds,  mostly  for  shipment  east. 

The  Omaha  smelting  works  are  the  largest  on 
the  Continent,  as  previously  stated.  They  are 
being  constantly  enlarged  to  meet  the  increasing 
demands  of  business.  In  1875  the  works  in  Col- 
orado reduced  91,650,000  of  ore  and  bullion.    In 

1874,  the  Omaha  works  reduced  992,135,000.    In 

1875,  94,028,314.  In  1876, 94,832,000.  In  1877, 
95,500,000.  For  1875-76-77  their  lead  manu- 
facture amounted  to  35,262  tons  or  70,524,000 


pounds,  so  that  Omaha  now  produces  about  one 
sixth  of  all  the  lead  used  in  the  United  States. 
Heretofore  this  lead  has  been  shipped  east,  but 
the  new  white  lead  works  are  using  a  large  por- 
tion of  it  and  in  the  near  future  there  is  no 
reason  why  Omaha  may  not  be  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal lead  manufacturing  markets  in  the  coun- 
try. The  statement  of  currency  received  at  and 
shipped  from  Omaha  is  as  follows,  viz. : 


In  1873, 
"  1874, 
"  1876, 
"  1876, 
"  1877, 


«21,»i4,K07.20 
27,4.U,00i».()0 
;M,4ti«,7n0.1!0 

3;{,ti,'>r>,'ji5.(H) 

39,!«i;<,'<i(i0.00 


Showing  an  increase   in  1877  over  1873  of 
918,048,452.80. 

There  was  deposited  in  the  Omaha  banks,  viz. : 

During  1874,  $R6,.')08,»60.48 

"       1876,  63,;);j:»,4i)2.08 

"        1876,  72,8<W,«)0.00 

"        1877,  80,548,485.00 

Showing  an  increase  in   1877  over  1874  of 
925,239,524.56. 

£xchange  sold  by  the  same  : 


During  1874, 

"       1877, 


$25,768,426.92 
38,181,671.38 


Showing  an  increase  in   1877  over  1874  of 
912,413,244.46. 

The  public  improvements  show  this  record  : 


During  1876 $360,000 

1876 238,000 

1877 786.000 


During  1879. 

1880. 


.$1,064,540 
.  1,014.880 


An  increase  in  1880  over  1875  of  9654,880; 
over  1876,  9776,830,  Careful  estimates  place 
the  improvement  record  of  1881  at  no  less  than 
91,500,000.  Judging  by  the  tide  of  immigra. 
tion  now  rushing  into  Nebraska  through  the 
efforts  of  eastern  colonization  societies  and 
others,  the  realization  will  go  beyond  that  figure, 
as  the  trade  of  the  city  is  rapidly  extending  in 
every  direction  and  the  indications  are  that  the 

E resent  will  be  the  most  prosperous  year  in  the 
istory  of  the  West. 

In  1860,  the  transportation  trade  of  Omaha 
amounted  to  732,000  pounds.  In  1877,  the  re- 
ceipts and  shipments  from  and  to  the  West  pass- 
ing into  and  through  Omahp.  were  2,172,720,000 
pounds.  In  1875,  the  Omaha  merchants  im- 
ported 17,450  carloads  of  merchandise. 

The  mercantile  and  manufacturing  trade  of 
the  city  in  round  numbers  is  as  follows : 


Inl87B $17,000,000 

"1876 26.000,000 


In  1877 $30,000,001) 

'•  1880 32,000,000 


This  increase  of  913,000.000  in  two  years  was 
during  a  period  of  universal  depression.  But 
notwithstanding  the  hard  times,  Omaha  has  be- 
come the  chief  commercial  city  of  the  Missouri 
valley. 

The  "  Omaha  Union  Stock  Yards  "  were  in- 
corporated May  4,  1878,  and  began  at  once  the 
erection  of  large  and  well  arranged  yards,  on 
their  grounds  located  on  the  Union  Pacific  track 


FME  PsiCIFi€  FOi^iST. 


19 


duces  about  one 
United  States, 
hipped  east,  but 
ling  a  large  por- 
ure  there  is  no 
one  of  the  prin- 
3ta  in  the  c-oun- 
received  at  and 
vs,  viz. : 

44,807.20 
II.OOO.OO 
fiO.TOO.lM 

r>r>,i;iB.oo 
):),2(M).oo 

over  1873  of 
mha  banks,  viz. : 

,;t08,I)60.48 

,;i;tt,4i»2.08 

,808,600.00 
,.'548,485.60 

7  over  1874  of 


,708,426.92 
,181,671.38 

7  over  1874  of 
f  this  record : 


179. 


.$1,064,640 
.  1,014,880 


75  of  «654,880; 
estimates  place 
at  no  less  than 
ie  of  umuigra< 
:a  through  the 
8ocietie.s  and 
oud  that  figure, 
ly  extending  in 
ns  are  that  the 
»us  year  in  the 

ade  of  Omaha 
n  1877,  the  re- 
the  West  pass- 
e  2,172,720,000 
merchants  im- 
iidise. 

uring  trade  of 
»llow8 : 

$30,000,000 

32,000,000 


two  years  was 
pression.  But 
>maha  has  be- 
l  the  Alissouri 

rds  "  were  in- 
n  at  once  the 
iged  yards,  on 
1  Pacific  track 


near  the  citv  limits.  A  dummy  car  line  extend- 
ing from  t}ie  Union  depot  to  Hanscom  Park, 
connects  the  yards  with  the  hotels  and  banks  of 
the  city.  Tne  packing,  slaughtering  and  can- 
ning ot  beef  is  destined  to  grow  into  immense 
proportions  at  this  point,  as  also  undoubtedly 
will  tanning  and  glue  manufacture. 

Omaha  has  now  a  system  of  water  works 
which  cost  $1)00,000;  also,  a  hotel  and  opera 
house,  each  of  which  cost  $100,000. 

I7tc  U,  P.  R.  II.  Bridge  Acrotm  the 
MiHHoari  Rivet: — The  huge  bridge,  which 
spans  the  Missouri,  is  a  fitting  entrance  to  the 
wonders  beyond — a  mechanical  wonder  of  itself, 
it  fills  every  traveler  with  a  sense  of  awe  and 
majesty,  as  the  first  great  scene  of  the  overland 
journey. 

The  last  piece  of  iron  of  the  last  span  which 
<!ompleted  the  bridge  was  fastened  in  its  place 
on  the  aoth  of  February,  1872.  Previous  to  that 
time,  all  passengers  and  traffic  were  tninsferred 
across  the  treacherous  and  shifting  shon  s  of  the 
Missouri  River  in  steam-boats  with  flat  keel,  and 
with  the  ever-shifting  currents  and  sand-bars, 
safe  landings  were  always  uncertain.  The  bridge 
comprises  U  spans,  each  span  250  feet  in  length, 
and  elevated  50  feet  above  high  water-mark. 
These  spans  are  supported  by  one  stone  masonry 
abutment,  and  11  piers  with  22  cast-iron  col- 
umns; each  pier  is  8  1-2  feet  in  diameter,  and 
made  of  cast-iron  in  tubes  one  and  three-fourths 
inches  in  thickness,  10  feet  in  length,  with  a 
weight  of  eight  tons.  As  fast  as  the  tubes  of 
the  columns  are  sunk,  they  are  fitted  together, 
seams  made  air-tight,  and  process  continued  till 
the  complete  depth  and  height  is  attained.  Dur- 
ing the  building  of  the  bridge  from  February, 
1869,  when  work  first  commenced,  until  com- 
pletion in  1872  (excepting  a  period  of  eight 
months  suspension),  about  500  men  were  con- 
stantly employed.  Ten  steam-engines  were  in 
use  for  the  purpose  of  operating  the  pneumatic 
works  to  hoist  the  cylinders,  help  put  the  super- 
structure into  position,  to  drive  piles  for  tempo- 
rary platforms  and  bridges,  and  to  excavate  sand 
within  the  columns.  The  columns  were  sunk 
into  the  bed  of  the  river  after  being  placed  in 
correct  position  by  the  following  method  :  The 
top  of  the  column  being  made  perfectly  air-tight, 
all  water  beneath  is  forced  out  by  pn  umatic 
pressure.  Then  descending  into  the  inferior,  a 
lorce  of  workmen  excavate  the  sand  and  earth, 
filling  buckets  which  are  quickly  hoisted  up- 
wards by  the  engines.  When  the  excavation 
has  reached  one  or  more  feet,  the  column  sinks 
gradually  inch  by  inch,  more  or  less  rapidly,  un- 
til a  solid  bottom  is  reached. 

The  least  time  in  which  any  column  was  sunk 
to  bed  vr^jk  from  the  commencement  of  the  pneu- 
matic pri^<3ess  was  seven  days,  and  the  greatest 
aingle  depth  of  sinking  at  one  time  was  17  feet. 


The  greatest  depth  below  low  water  which  was 
reached  by  any  column,  at  bed  rock,  was  82  feet. 
The  greatest  pressure  to  which  the  men  working 
in  the  columns  were  subjected,  was  54  pounds  per 
square  inch  in  excess  ot  the  atmosphere.  When 
solid  foundation  is  once  obtained,  the  interior  of 
the  columns  are  filled  with  solid  stone  concrete 
for  about  25  feet,  and  thence  upward  with  ce- 
ment masonry,  till  the  bridge  is  reached. 

The  total  length  of  the  iron  structure  of  the 
bridge  is  2,750  feet.  The  eastern  approach  is  by 
an  einbankmer:,  of  gradual  ascent  one  and  a 
half  miles  in  length,  commencing  east  of  the 
Transfer  grounds,  and  almost  at  Council  BlufFs, 
and  thence  ascending  at  the  rate  of  35  feet  to 
the  mile  to  the  bridge. 

Metinnwa. — The  old  depot  grounds  of  the 
Union  Pacific  Railroad  were  on  the  bank  of  the 
river  immediately  beneath  the  bridge.  When 
thiswas  constructed,  in  order  to  connect  the  bridge 
and  main  line  of  the  railroad,  itwivs  necessary  to 
construct,  directly  through  the  city,  a  branch  line 
of  road  7,000  feet  in  length,  and  construct  a 
new  depot  on  higher  ground,  of  which  as 
a  result,  witness  the  handsome,  new  structure, 
and  spacious  roof,  and  convenient  waiting* 
rooms.  From  the  first  abutment  to  the  bank, 
a  trestle-work  of  700  feet  more,  60  feet  in 
height  was  constructed;  thus  the  entire  length 
of  the  bridge,  with  necessary  approaches,  is 
9,1)50  feet.  Total  cost  is  supposed  to  }>e 
about  82,650,000,  and  the  annual  revenue 
abou  «100,000.  The  bridge  has  figured  nota- 
bly in  the  discussions  of  Congi-ess,  whether 
or  not  it  should  be  considered  a  part  of 
the  Union  Pacific  Railroad.  The  recent  de- 
cision of  the  United  States  Supreme  Court 
has  at  last  declared  it  so  to  be,  and  with  this  is 
done  away  entirely  the  "  Omaha  Bridge  Trans- 
fer "  of  the  past. 

Prejmring  for  the  Westtvard  Trip. — 
Having  rested  and  visited  the  principal  points 
of  interest  in  Omaha,  you  will  be  ready  to  take 
a  fresh  start.  Repairing  to  the  new  depot, 
finished,  at  the  crossing  of  Ninth  street,  you 
will  find  one  of  the  most  magnificent  trains  of 
cars  made  up  by  any  railroad  in  the  United 
States.  Everything  conr-cted  with  them  is 
first-class.  Pullman  sleeping-coaches  are  at* 
tached  to  ail  express  trains,  and  all  travelers 
know  how  finely  they  are  furnished,  and  how 
they  tend  to  relieve  the  wearisome  monotony  of 
tedious  days  in  the  journey  from  ocean  to  ocean. 
At  this  depot  you  will  find  the  waiting-iooms, 
ticketH)ffices,  baggage-rooms,  lunch-stands,  news 
and  bookstand,  together  with  one  of  the  best 
kept  eating-houses  in  the  country.  You  will  find 
gentlemanly  attendants  at  all  these  places,  ready 
to  give  you  any  information,  and  cheerfully 
answer  your  questions.  If  you  have  a  little  time, 
step  into  the  Union  Pacific  Land  office  adjoining 
the  depot,  on  the  east,  and  see  some  of  the  pro- 


mmm 


20 


FMM  ^nama  rofmissr. 


u 


ductions  of  this  prolific  western   soil.     If  you 
have  come  from  the  fur  East,  it  has  been  a  slightly 
uphill  journey  all  the  way,  and  you  are  now  at 
an  elevation  of  906  feet  above  the  sea.     If  the 
weather  is  pleasant,  you  may  already  begin  to 
feel  the  exhilarating  eifect  of  western  breezes, 
and  comparatively  dry  atmosphere.     With  books 
and  papers  to  while  away  your  leisure  hours,  you 
are  finally  ready  for  the  start.     The  bell  rings, 
the  whistle  shrieks,  and  off  you  go.     The  road 
first    winds    up    a 
little  valley,  passing 
the  Bridge  Junction 
1.5   (one   and    five- 
tenths)  miles  to 

Summit  Sid- 
ing, —  3.2  miles 
from  Omaha ;  eleva- 
tion 1,142  feet.  This 
place,  you  will  ob- 
serve by  these  fig- 
ures, is  reached  by 
a  heavy  up  grade. 
You  are  176  feet 
higher  than  when 
you  first  started,  and 
but  little  over  three 
miles  away.  Here  is 
a  deep  cut  through 
the  hill,  and  beyond 
it  you  strike  Mud 
Creek  Valley  with 
a  down  grade  for  a 
few  miles.  This 
creek  and  the  road 
run  south  on  a  line 
nearly  parallel  with, 
and  about  two  and 
a  half  miles  from, 
the  Missouri  River 
until  the  next  sta- 
tion is  reached. 

O-ilmofe. — It  is 
9.5  miles  from  Oma- 
ha, with  only  10  feet 
difference  in  eleva- 
tion—Q7Q  feet.  The 
valley  is  quite  thick- 
ly settled,  and  as  you 
look  out  on  the  left 

side  of  the  cars,  about  four  miles  from  Omaha, 
you  will  see  a  saloon  called  Half-Way  House. 
At  about  this  point  you  leave  Douglas  County 
and  enter  Sarpy  County.  Gilmore  was  named 
after  an  old  resident  of  that  locality,  now  dead. 
Here  you  are  some  nine  miles  south  of  Omaha, 
but  only  about  three  west  of  the  Miesouri 
River.  Here  you  will  first  see  what  are  called 
the  bottom  lands  of  Nebraska.  They  are  as 
rich  as  any  lands  on  this  Continent,  as  the  re- 
markable crops  raised  thereon  fully  attest. 
From  this  station  you  turn  nearly  due  west,  and 


pass  over  the  lower  circle  of  what  is  called  thf* 

OX-l)OW. 

l*apuiou, —  14  5  miles  from  Omaha;  eleva- 
tion \)T2J'eet,  is  the  next  station,  and  is  a  thriv- 
ing little  town  ^pronounced  l*a-pil-yo).  It  derives 
its  name  from  the  creek  on  whose  banks  it  is  situ- 
ated. This  creek  was  named  by  Lewis  and  Clark 
in  their  expedition  to  Oregon,  in  1804,  and  is 
derived  from  a  Latin  word  which  means  butter- 
fly.    The  main  branch  was  crossed  a  little  west 

of  Gilmore.    Itemiv 

ties  into  the  Mis- 
souri River  about 
one  mile  north  of 
the  Platte  River.  It 
is  ix'iiorted  that  the 
»'arly  explorers 
named,  saw  an  im- 
mense number  of 
butterflies  in  the 
m  u  d  d  y  and  wet 
places  near  its 
mouth,  and  hence 
the  name.  These 
gentlemen  explored 
this  stream  to  its 
source,  near  the  Elk- 
liorn  River.  The 
town  was  laid  out 
in  the  fall  of  186!) 
by  Dr.  Beadle,  and 
is  the  permanent 
county-seat  of  Sar- 
py County.  It  has 
a  fine  brick  court- 
liouse,  and  a  brick 
schtwl-house,  hotels, 
flouring  mills  and  a 
grain  ware-house ;  is 
located  as  are  all 
the  towns  on  the 
first  two  hundred 
miles  of  this  road, 
in  the  midst  of  a 
rich  agricultural 
country.  Sarpy 
County  has  two 
newspapers  —  one 
the  Papilion  Times, 
"  oooD-BYE."  published  weekly  at 

this  place,  and  the  other,  the  Sarpy  County  Senti- 
nel, published  at  Sarpy  Center,  some  five  miles  in 
the  country  from  this  station.  Sarpy  is  one 
of  the  best  settled  counties  in  Nebraska,  and 
has  a  property  valuation  of  over  $3,000,000. 

MiUard— is  named  for  Hon.  Ezra  Millard, 
president  of  the  Omaha  National  Bank,  who  has 
considerable  landed  property  here.  The  station* 
house  is  comparatively  new,  and  there  are  a  few 
other  buildings  recently  erected.  It  is  pleas- 
antly located,  and,  like  all  western  towns,  has 
plenty  of  i-oom  to  grow.    It  is  20.9  miles  from 


hat  is  called  thA 

ni  Omaha;  eleva- 
[1,  and  is  a  thriv- 
»il-yo).  It  derives 
i«  bunks  it  is  sitii- 
Lewis  and  Clark 
in  1804,  and  is 
fh  means  butter- 
Mst'd  a  little  west 
ilniore.    Itemiv 
into   the  Mis- 
ri    River    about 
mile   north   of 
Platte  River.    It 
■eix)rted  that  the 
ly   explorers 
ned,  saw  an  im- 
nse    number    of 
terflies     in     the 
iddy    and    wet 
ces    near    its 
uth,  and    hence 
name.      These 
itlemen  explored 
stream    to    its 
rce,  near  the  Elk- 
n    River.      The 
n  was  laid  out 
the  fall  of  1801) 
Dr.  Beadle,  and 
the    permanent 
nty-seat  of   Sar- 
County.     It  has 
ine   brick  court- 
ise,  and  a  brick 
[)ol-house,  hotels, 
ring  mills  and  a 
in  ware-house;  is 
tted    as    are   all 
towns   on    the 
;    two    hundred 
is  of   this  road, 
the  midst  of  a 
h     agricultural 
I  n  t  r  y.     Sarpy 
nty    has     two 
spapers  —  one 
Papilion   Times, 
lished  weekly  at 
9y  County  Semi- 
me  five  miles  in 
Sarpy  is  one 
Nebraska,  and 
^3,000,000. 
.  Ezra  Millard, 
Bank,  who  has 
;.    The  station* 
there  are  a  few 
It  is  pleas- 
em  towns,  has 
20.9  miles  from 


FMJg  PACIFIC  TQtNiiSr. 


ti 


Omaha  ;  elevation,  1,047  feet.  Evidences  of 
thrift  are  everywhere  visible  as  you  cast  your 
eyes  over  the  rolling  prairies,  and  yet  there  is 
ample  room  for  all  who  desire  to  locate  in  this 
vicinity.  You  have  again  crossed  the  boundary 
line  ot  Sarpy  County,  which  is  a  mile  or  two 
south-east  ot  Millard,  and  are  again  in  the 
County  of  Douglas. 

t.lkhorn,  —  28.9  miles  from  Omaha,  eleva- 
tion 1,150  feet.  This  is  a  Rowing  town,  and 
does  a  large  business  in  gram ;  it  has  an  ele- 
vator, grain  warehouses,  two  stores,  a  Catholic 
church,  good  school-house,  and  a  hotel.  You 
are  now  near  the  famous  Elkhorn  Valley  and 
River.  By  a  deep  cut,  the  railroad  makes  its 
way  through  the  bluff  or  hill  on  the  east  side 
of  this  stream,  about  a  mile  from  the  station, 


The  elevation  of  Waterloo  is  laid  down  at  1,140 
feet.  The  town  has  a  fine  water-power  which 
has  been  improved  by  the  erection  of  a  large 
flouring-mill.  It  also  has  two  steam  flouring- 
mills,  and  a  new  depot.  At  this  point  you 
enter  the  I'lutte  Valley,  of  which  so  much 
has  been  written  and  which  occupies  such  a 
prominent  place  in  the  history  of  the  country. 
The  Elkhorn  and  Platte  Rivers  form  a  junc- 
tion a  few  miles  south  of  this  point,  and  the 
banks  of  these  streams  are  more  or  less  studded 
with  timber,  mostly  cottonwood.  In  fact,  the 
Elkhorn  has  cousiderable  timber  along  its 
banks. 

Valley — is  35.2  miles  from  Omaha,  and  is 
1,120  feet  above  the  sea.  It  has  a  store  and 
hotel,  and  is  the  center  of  a  rich  farming  dis- 


.M(iUT   SCENE.     I'RAIKIE   ON   FIHK. 


and  then  on  a  down  grade  you  glide  into 
the  valley.  The  rolling  prairies  are  now  be- 
hind you  and  south,  beyond  the  Platte  River, 
which  for  the  first  time  comes  into  view.  Cross- 
ing the  Elkhorn  River  you  arrive  at 

Waterloo,  —  30.9  miles  from  Omaha,  and 
only  two  miles  from  the  last  station.  A  few 
years  since,  a  train  was  thrown  from  the  bridge 
spoken  of  by  reason  of  the  high  water  of  a 
freshet.  This  train  had  one  car  of  either  young 
fish  or  flsh-eggs  in  transit ;  the  conttmts  of  this 
car  were  of  course  lost  in  the  river,  and  since 
that  time  the  Elkhorn  abounds  in  pike,  pickerel, 
bass,  sunfish  and  perch.  What  the  California 
streams  lost  by  this  disaster  the  Elkhorn  gained, 
as  these  fish  have  increased  rapidly  m  this 
stream,  where   they  were  previously  unknown. 


trict.  The  land  seems  low,  and  one  would  easi!y 
gain  the  impression  that  the  soil  here  was  very 
wet,  but  after  digging  through  t  le  black  surface 
soil  two  or  three  feet  you  come  to  just  such  sand 
as  is  found  in  the  channel  of  the  Platte.  In 
fact,  the  whole  Platte  Valley  is  underdrained  by 
this  river,  and  this  is  one  reason  why  sur/ace 
water  from  hard  and  extensive  rains  so  quickly 
disappear,  and  why  the  land  is  able  to  produce 
such  good  crops  in  a  dry  season.  Water  is  ob- 
tained anywhere  in  this  valley  by  sinking 
what  are  called  drive-wells,  from  six  to  twenty 
feet.  Wind-mills  are  also  extensively  used 
by  large  farmers,  who  have  stock  which 
they  confine  upon  their  premises,  and  which 
otherwise  they  would  have  to  drive  some 
distance  for  water.    The  Omaha  and  Republi- 


M 


22 


FMiP  ^;MCiFt€  WOV'&iSV. 


» 1 


V 


can  Valley  Railroad  runs  to  Stromsburg  and 
Lincoln. 

Mercer,  which  is  41.4  milea  from  Omaha, 
with  an  elevation  of  about  1,140  feet.  It  will 
eventually  become  a  Htation,  as  many  trains 
already  meet  and  pass  here. 

I'ralrie  Flt'en. — During  the  first  night's 
ride  westward  from  Omaha,  the  traveler,  as 
he  gazes  out  of  hiH  car  window  (which  he 
can  easily  do  while  reclining  in  his  berth)  will 
often  find  his  curious  attention  rewarded  by  a 
sight  of  one  of  the  most  awful,  yet  grandest 
scenes  of  prairie  life.  The  prairies,  which  in 
the  day-time  to  some,  seemed  dry,  dull,  uninter- 
esting, occasionally  give  place  ut  night,  to  the 
lurid  play  of  the  fire-fiend,  and  the  lieavens 
and  horizon  seem  like  a  furnace.  A  ^irairie  on 
fire  is  a  fearfully  exciting  and  fear-stirriiig  sight. 
Cheeks  blanch  as  the  wind  sweeps  its  volume 
toward  the  observer,  or  across  his  track.  Full  in 
the  distance  is  seen  the  long  line  of  brip^ht  flame 
stretching  for  miles,  with  its  broad  band  of  dark 
smoke-clouds  above.  As  the  train  comes  near, 
the  flames  leap  higher,  and  the  smoke  ascends 
higher,  and  on  their  dark  bosom  is  reflected  the 
fires' brilliantly-tinged  light.  Sweeping  away  for 
miles  towanls  the  bluffs,  the  fire  jumps  with  the 
wind,  and  the  flames  leap  20  to  HO,  or  more 
feet  into  the  air,  and  for  miles  brighten  the 
prairies  with  tne  awful  sight.  We  have  never 
seen  anything  of  prairie  life  or  scenery  |»ossessing 
such  majestic  brilliance  as  the  night  glows,  and 
rapid  advances  of  a  prairie  fire.  Far  out  on 
the  prairies,  beyond  the  settlements,  the  prairie 
fires,  (usually  set  on  fire  by  the  sparks  from 
the  locomotives)  rage  unchecked  for 
miles  and  miles,  but  nearer  to  the  little 
settlements,  where  the  cabins  liave 
just  been  set  up,  the  fire  is  their  deadli- 
est and  most  dreaded  enemy.  No  words 
can  describe,  no  pencil  paint  the  look  of 
terror  when  the  settler  beholds  advanc- 
ing toward  him  the  fire-fiend,  for  which 
he  is  unprepared  and  unprotected. 
When  the  first  sign  of  the  advancing 
tire  is  given,  all  hands  turn  out ;  either 
a  counter  fire  is  started,  which,  eating 
from  the  settler's  ranch,  in  the  face  of 
the  wind,  toward  the  grander  coming 
volume,  takes  away  its  force,  and  leaves 
it  nothing  to  feed  upon,  or.  fuiTows 
are  broken  with  the  plow  around  the 
settler's  home.  The  cool  earth  thrown 
up,  and  all  the  grass  beyond  this  is 
fired,  while  the  little  home  enclosed 
within,  is  safe.  A  curious  feature  of 
prairie  fires  is,  that  the  buffal"  grass, 
the  next  season,  is  darker  and  richer 
than  ever  before ;  and  lower  down,  in 
sections  where  the  prairie  fires  are 
carefully  kept  off,  trees,  shrubx  bushes,  etc.,  ! 
of    many    varieties,    grow    up    spontaneously,  1 


which  never  were  seen  before.  So  long  an 
prairie  fires  rage,  nothing  will  grow  but  the  little 
tufts  of  prairie  grass.  Wherevei  the  prairie  fire 
ceases  or  is  kept  restrained,  vegetation  of  all  de- 
scription as  far  west  as  the  Platte,  is  completely 
changed.  In  the  fall  of  the  year  these  fires  are 
most  frequent ;  and  creating  a  strong  current  or 
breeze  by  their  own  heat,  they  advance  with  the 
rapidity  often  of  a  locomotive,  20  or  more  miles 
an  hour,  and  their  terrible  lurid  light  by  night, 
and  blackened  path  left  behind,  as  seen  next  day 
by  the  traveler,  are  sights  never  to  be  forgotten. 
In  the  lower  river  counties  a  prairie  fire  often 
originates  from  the  careless  dropping  of  a  match, 
or  the  ashes  shaken  from  a  pi|)e.  The  little 
sjiark  touches  the  dry  grass  like  tinder — the  con- 
stant breeze  fans  the  little  flame,  and  five  minutes 
after  it  has  covered  yards.  The  loss  to  tillers  of 
the  soil  is  often  appalling.  One  of  General 
Sherman's  veterans,  in  describing  a  prairie  fire  to 
a  visitor,  raising  liimself  to  his  full  six  feet 
height,  and  with  eye  flasliing  as  in  battle  ex<  te- 
ment,  said  :  "  Mr.  C,  if  I  should  catch  a  man  firi;ig 
the  prairie  at  this  time,  as  God  helps  me,  I  would 
shoot  him  down  in  his  deed."  A  traveler  riding 
on  the  prairie  said,  "  only  a  few  miles  from  me 
an  emigrant,  traveling  in  nis  close-covered  wagon 
"  wUh  the  wiiii/, "  was  overtaken  by  the  flames 
coming  down  on  him  unseen.  Horses,  family, 
wagon,  were  all  destroyed  in  a  moment,  and  him- 
self barely  lived  long  enough  to  tell  the  tale. 
Nearly  every  night  in  autumn  the  prairies  of  the 
boiinciless  West,  show  either  the  near  or  distant 
glow  of  a  fire,  which  in  extent  has  the  appear- 
ance of  another  burning  Chicago. 


'  BUSTED." 


Pike'ti  Peak  or  Bitsf. — This  expression  has 
become  widely  known,  and  received  its  origin  as 


FMJff  ^dlCiriC  FO&fBiSr. 


2^ 


^  lonff  a* 
ow  but  tliu  little 
tho  pruirie  fire 
tutioii  of  ull  de- 
le, 18  completely 

r  these  fires  are 
troiig  current  or 
Ivaiice  with  the 
JO  or  more  miles 

light  by  night, 
18  seen  next  day 
to  be  forgotten. 
)rairie  fire  often 
)ing  of  a  match, 
•ilH".  The  little 
tinder — the  con- 
and  five  minutes 
loss  to  tillers  of 
►ne  of  General 
:  a  prairie  fire  to 
8  full  six  feet 
in  battle  ex'  te- 
itch  a  man  (i  i  yie 
jlps  mo,  I  would 
I  traveler  riding 

miles  from  me 
e-covered  wagon 

by  the  flames 
Horses,  family, 
)ment,  and  hira- 
)  tell  the  tale, 
e  prairies  of  the 
near  or  distant 
has  the  appear- 


j 


md        '■ 


': 


expression  has 
id  its  origin  as 


follows: — At  the  time  of  the  opening  of  the 
Pike's  I'eak  excitement  iii  mAd  diggings,  two 
pioneers  nuule  themselvuH  ctmspicuous  by  paint>- 
ing  in  large  letters  on  the  side  of  their  wagon 
cover : — "  Pike's  Peak  or  Bu.it."  I  n  their  haste  to 
reach  this,  the  newly  discovered  Kldorado,  they 
scorned  all  safety  and  protection  offered  by  the 
"train"  and  traveled  alone,  and  on  their  "own 
hook." 

For  days  and  weeks  they  escaped  tho  dangers 
attending  their  folly,  and  passed  luiharined  until 
they  reached  the  roving  ground  of  the  bloody 
Sioux.  Here  they  were  surrounded  and  cruelly 
and  wantonly  murdered ;  their  bodies  we  e  driven 
through  with  arrows,  and  pinned  to  the  earth, 
and  left  to  the  sunshine  and  storma  of  the 
skies. 

FremotU — is  4G.5  miles  from  Omiha,  and 
has  an  elevation  of  1,17U  feet.  It  is  the  county- 
seat  of  Dodge  County,  and  has  n  |>upulation  of 
full  3,006.  In  the  year  1880,  over  ij  100,000  were 
{expended  in  buildings  in  this  growing  young 
city.  It  has  never,  so  far  as  |X)pulation  is  con- 
cerned, experienced  what  may  be  called  a  great 
rush — its  growth  having  been  slow  and  steady. 
It  is  located  near  the  south-east  corner  of  the 
county.  Originally  the  town  comprised  a  whole 
section  of  land,  but  won  afterwards  reduced  to 
about  half  a  section.  The  town  company  was  or- 
ganized on  the  2tith  day  of  August,  1856,  and  in 
that  and  the  following  year,  thirteen  log  houses 
were  built.  John  C.  llormel  built  the  first  frame 
house  in  1857.  The  Union  Pacific  reached  the 
town  on  the  24th  day  of  January,  1806,  nearly 
ten  years  after  it  was  first  laid  out,  and  trains 
ran  to  it  regularly,  though  the  track  was  laid 
some  11  miles  beyond,  when  work  ceased  for  that 
winter.  The  Sioux  City  and  Pacific  road  was 
completed  to  Fremont  late  in  the  fall  of  1868. 
In  the  expectations  of  the  residents,  it  was  then 
to  become  a  railroa^d  center,  and  lots  were  sold  at 
large  prices.  This  last-named  road  runs  from 
Blair  on  the  Missouri  River,  where  it  crosses 
said  stream  and  forms  a  junction  with  the  Chi- 
cago and  North-western.  It  then  runs  north  on 
the  east  side  of  said  river,  to  Sioux  City.  The 
Elkhorn  Valley  Railroiid  completed  the  first  ten 
miles  ">l  its  track  in  186f),  and  the  balance,  some 
sev  in  •  miles,  was  finished  to  Norfolk  in  1880. 
This  -  >ad  is  one  of  the  natural  routes  to  the 
Blac' .  Hills,  and  it  is  now  stated  that  it  will 
soon  be  extended  in  that  direction.  It  will  con- 
tinue up  the  Elkhorn  Valley  to  near  its  source, 
and  then  crossing  the  divide,  will  strike  into  the 
Niobrara  Valley;  thence  westward  until  the 
Black  Hills  are  reached.  This  rood  is  a  feeder  to 
Fremont,  and  very  valuable  to  its  trade.  At  a 
date  not  far  distant,  Fremont  will  doubtless 
become  a  flourishing  citv,  owing  its  prosperity, 
in  common  with  many  other  towns,  to  the  agency 
of  the  railroads  which  will  soon  connect  it 
with  every  place  of  importance.    Other  railroad 


projects  are  contemplated,  which  will  make  this 
plu^ie  in  reality  a  railroad  center. 

Fremont  has  a  large,  new  hotel,  the  Occi- 
dental, and  several  snialler  ones  ;  has  the 
finest  opera  I.oiise  in  tho  West,  an«l  the  largest 
ind  finest  dry-goods  house  in  the  State.  It 
has  five  or  six  church  edifices,  and  un  ele- 
gant public  school  building,  two  liuiiks, 
three  or  four  elevators,  a  steam  flouring 
mill,  extensive  broom  factories,  and  two  or 
three  manufacturing  establishments  where 
headers  are  made.  It  also  has  a  foundry 
and  machine-shop.  It  is  now  a  regular  eat- 
ing station  on  the  railroad,  all  passenger 
trains  east  or  west  stopping  here  for  din- 
ner, which  is  really  most  abundant  and  ex- 
cellent. 

Fremont  is  virtually  located  at  the  junction  of 
the  Elkhorn  and  Platte  Valleys,  and  from  ita 
jKJsition  natunlly  controls  a  large  scope  of  coun- 
try. Its  people  are  industrious,  wide-avake  and 
energetic.  It  is  in  the  midst  of  a  thickly-settled 
region,  and  its  future  prospects  are  very  flatter- 
ing. 

Fremont  has  two  newspapers  —  the  Fremont 
Herald  (daily  and  weekly),  and  the  Fremont 
'Iribune  (weekly).  Tho  latter  was  first  estab- 
lished, and  probably  has  the  largest  circulation. 
The  enterprise  of  newspapers  in  these  western 
towns,  contribute  very  largely  to  their  growth 
and  prosperity.  The  town  is  the  fourth  in  size 
and  population  in  the  State. 

The  Elkhorn  Valley  is  between  two  and  three 
hundred  miles  in  length,  is  well  timbered  and 
remarkably  fertile,  and  the  railroad  which  is  u> 
do  the  carrying  business  of  this  valley,  has  its 
terminus  at  Fremont. 

T/te  Great  Platte  Valley.— Yon  have 
now  passed  over  a  few  miles  of  the  great 
Platte  Valley.  At  Fremont  it  spreads  out  won- 
derfully, and  for  the  first  two  hundred  miles 
varies  in  width  from  five  to  fifteen  miles. 
Through  nearly  all  its  eastern  course,  this  river 
hugs  the  bluffs  on  its  southern  side.  These  bluffs 
as  well  as  those  more  distavl  on  the  northern  side 
of  the  valley,  are  plainly  visible  from  the  cars. 
Before  the  road  was  built,  this  valley  was  the 
great  highway  of  overland  travel  to  Colorado, 
Utah,  California,  and  Oregon.  Immense  trains  ■ 
of  wagons,  heavily  freighted,  have  pitssed  over  it, 
in  their  slow  and  tedious  journeyings  towards 
the  setting  sun.  Leaving  the  Missouri  at  differ- 
ent points,  the  routes  nearly  all  converged  in  the 
Platte  Valley,  and  thence  westward  to  their  des- 
tination. I'he' luxuriant  grasses,  and  the  prox- 
imity to  water,  made  this  the  favorite  route.  It 
has  also  been  the  scene  of  deadly  conflicts  with 
the  savages,  and  the  bones  of  many  a  wanderer 
lie  bleaching  in  the  air,  or  are  buried  beneath 
some  rough  and  hastily-made  mound  near  the 
beaten  nad.  But  a  wonderful  change  took  place 
with  the  advent  of  the  road.  The  "  bull-whacker,** 


J 


RKPRRSKXTATIVK  MKN  OF  THE  UNION  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


25 


ifrith  his  whit&oovered  wagon  and  raw-boned 
oxen — his  slang  phrases,  and  profane  expressions, 
his  rough  life,  and  in  many  instances  violent 
death — the  crack  of  his  long  lash  that  would  ring 
out  in  the  clear  morning  air  like  that  of  a  rifle,  and 
his  wicked  goad  or  prod — an  instrument  of  tor- 
turo  to  his  beasts — with  all  that  these  things 
imply,  have  nearly  passed  away.  Their  glory 
)ias  departed,  '•nd  in  their  place  is  the  snorting 
engine  and  the  thundering  train. 

The  remarkable  agricultural  advantages  of 
this  valley  are  everywhere  visible,  and  it  is 
rapidly  filli.ig  up  with  an  industrious  and  thrifty 
class  of  fari.iere.  The  land  grant  of  the  Union 
Pacific  Company  ext-nds  for  twenty  miles  on 
either  side  of  the  road,  and  includes  every  alter- 
nate section  of  land  that  was  not  taken  at  the 
time  it  was  withdrawn  from  the  market,  for  the 
benefit  of  the  company.  If  you  pass  a  long  dis- 
tance in  the  first  two  hundred  miles  of  this 
valley  without  observing  many  improvements,  it 
is  pretty  good  evidence  thp.t  the  land  is  held  by 
non-resident  speculi'tors,  and  this  fact  has  a 
great  influence  in  i  ;tarding  the  growth  of  the 
country.  Around  many  A  the  residences  are 
large  groves  of  cotton-wood  trees  that  have  been 
planted  by  industrious  hands  and  which  give 
evidence  of  unusual  thrift.  In  fact,  the  cotton- 
wood  in  most  eveiy  part  of  this  region  is  indig- 
enous to  the  soil,  and  will  thriftily  grow  where 
other  kinds  of  timber  fail.  Trees  sixty  feet  high 
and  from  eight  to  ten  inches  in  diameter,  are  no 
unconunon  lesnlt  of  six  to  eight  years'  growth. 
The  banks  of  the  Platte  and  the  many  islands  in 
its  channel,  were  formerly  very  heavily  timbered 
with  cotion-wood,  but  that  on  its  banks  has 
almost  entirely  disapjieared,  togethev  with  much 
that  was  u(X)n  the  islands.  Tiie  favorable  State 
and  national  legislation  in  regard  to  treis  jtlanting 
will  cause  an  increase  in  the  timber  land  of 
Nebraska  in  a  very  short  time,  and  must  of 
necessity,  have  an  influence  uj>on  its  climate. 
Many  scientists  who  are  familiar  with  the  cir- 
cumstances attending  the  rapid  development  of 
the  trans-Missoui'i  plains  and  the  elevated  pl.ateau 
joining  the  base  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  assert 
that  this  vast  region  of  country  is  gradually 
undergoing  iin[X)rtaut  climatic  changes — and  that 
one  of  the  results  of  th'se  clianges  is  the  an- 
imally  increasing  rainfall.  Tlu'  rolling  lands 
adjoining  this  valley  are  all  very  fertile,  and  with 
proper  tillage  produce  large  crops  of  small  grain. 
The  bottom  lands  are  better  adapted  for  corn, 
because  it  nuitures  later  in  the  season,  and  these 
bottom  lands  are  better  able  to  stand  drouth  than 
the  uplands.  The  roots  of  the  corn  j>enetrate  to  a 
great  depth,  till  they  reach  the  moisture  ijom 
the  under-«irainage.  One  of  the  finest  sights 
that  meets  the  eye  of  tlie  traveler,  is  the  Platte 
Valley  in  the  spring  or  early  siunr.ier;  to  our 
eastern  farmer,  it  is  fairly  captivating,  and  all 
who  are  ,amiliar  with  farms  and  fanning  in  the 


Eastern  States,  will  be  surprised  ;  no  stumps  or 
stones  or  other  obstacles  appear  to  interfere  with 
the  progress  of  the  plow,  and  the  black  surface-soil 
is,  without  doubt,  the  accumulation  of  vegetable 
matter  for  ages.  The  Platte  Valley  must  be  seen 
to  be  appreciated.  Only  a  few  years  ago  it  was 
scarcely  tenanted  by  man,  and  while  the  develop- 
ment has  been  marked,  it  will  not  compare  with 
that  which  is  sure  to  take  place  in  the  near 
future.  There  is  ample  room  for  the  millions 
yet  to  come,  and  the  lands  of  the  Union  Pacific 
Company  are  exceedingly  cheap,  varying  in 
price  from  $iJ  to  $10  per  acre.  The  alternate 
sections  of  government  land  for  the  first  two 
hundred  miles  of  this  valley  are  nearly  all 
taken  by  homesteaders,  or  under  the  preemp- 
tion laws  of  congress.  Much  of  it,  however, 
can  be  purchased  at  a  low  price  from  the  occu- 
pants, who,  as  a  general  thing,  desire  to  sell  out 
and  go  West  still.  They  belong  to  the  uneasy, 
restless  class  of  frontiers-men,  who  have  decided 
objections  to  neighl)ors  and  settlements,  and  who 
want  ple>ity  of  room,  with  no  one  to  molest,  in 
order  to  grow  up  with  the  country.  A  sod  house 
near  a  living  spring  of  water  is  to  them  a  small 
paradise.  They  might  possibly  suffer  from  thirst, 
if  they  had  to  dig  for  water,  and  the  labor  re- 
quired to  build  even  a  sod  house,  is  obnoxious. 
But  this  will  not  hold  good  of  all  of  them. 
There  are  many  occupants  of  these  s^d  houses  in 
the  State  of  Nebraska,  and  other  parts  of  the 
AVest,  who,  with  scanty  means  are  striving  for  a 
home  for  their  wives  and  children,  and  they  cling 
to  the  soil  uiwii  which  they  have  obtained  a  claim 
with  great  tenacity,  and  with  sure  prospects  of 
success.  They  are  woithyot  all  praise  in  their 
self-sacrificing  efforts.  A  ttw  yearr  only  will 
pass  by  before  they  will  b.  surrounded  with  all 
the  comforts  and  n.any  of  the  luxuries  of  life. 
1  hese  are  the  experiences  of  many  who  "  bless 
thei-  stars  "  to-day  that  they  have  sod  houses — 
homes — in  and  adjoining  the  great  Platte  Valley. 
S/iontiiiff  Prairie  Ifent*. — This  is  a  favor- 
ite scene,  often  witnessed  September  mornings  in 
the  far  West.  The  praiiie  is  covered  with  its 
grass,  and  wild  flowers,  which  last  all  the  season 
through.  Here  and  there  is  a  stubble  field  of  oats, 
wheat,  or  acres  on  acres  of  the  golden  corn, 
swaying  gracefully  in  the  breeze,  and  perhaps 
there  is  a  little  music  from  the  meadow  larks  or 
bird  songsters  of  the  fields.  The  dogs  with  keen- 
est of  scent,  hunt  out  and  stir  up  the  game,  and 
as  they  rise  on  wing,  the  ready  gun  with  its  aim, 
and  deadly  shot,  brings  thesn  back  lifeless.  This 
is  probably  the  most  attractive  way  to  look  at  a 
prairie  hen,  for  we  must  confess  that  after  a  slice 
or  tv.'o  of  the  meat,  as  usually  served  at  the  eat- 
ing stations  of  the  railroads,  from  which  we 
escajie  with  danger  to  our  front  teeth,  and  unsat- 
isfied stomachs,  we  can  only  exclaim  "  distance 
lends  enchantment."  However  tough  the  meat, 
if  served  on  the  table  when  first  killed,  yet  if 


26 


m& 


kept  till  it  grows  gradually  more  tender,  there  is 
a  wild,  spicy  flavor,  which  make  them  very  agree- 
able eating.  Buifalo  meat  and  prairie  hens  are 
not  altogether  reliable  as  viands  of  the  railroad 
dining  stations,  still  every  one  must  try  for  him- 
self, with  here  and  there  a  chano  of  finding 
sweet  and  tender  morsels. 


good  an  illustration  as  any,  of  the  rapid  growth 
of  some  of  the  western  towns  and  counties.  The 
county  was  organized  in  the  spring  of  1869,  two 
years  after  the  railroad  had  passed  through  it. — 
with  Schuyler  as  the  county-seat.  In  the  spring 
of  the  present  year,  1881,  it  has  an  assessed 
valuation  of  over  31,700,000,  and  a  population  of 


IIUNTINCJ   PRAIKIK   URNS. 


Antes — At  present  simply  a  side  track,  53.5   I 
miles  from  Omaha,  and  1.27()  feet  above  the  sea. 
This  was  formerly  called  Ketchum  ;  but  bears  its 

E resent  name  from  Oliver  Ames,  Esq.,  one  of  the 
uilders  of  this  railroad.  Observe  the  size  of 
the  trees  in  the  cotto»i  wood  groves  and  hedges 
near  this  place — all  planted  within  the  memory 
of  the  oldest  inhabitant. 

North  Rend — 61.5  miles  from  the  eastern 
terminiii<  of  the  road,  and  1.259  feat  in  elevation, 
a  little  less  than  the  preceding  station.  This  is 
a  thriving  little  town,  with  several  stores,  hotel, 
lumber-yard,  grain  elevator,  etc.  Tt  has  a  jxjn- 
toon  bridjje  across  the  Platte  River,  which 
will  materially  increase  its  trade  with  Saunders 
County  on  the  south.  The  oiwjning  of  many  farms 
in  its  vicinity  have  made  it  quite  a  grain  market. 
The  town  is  so  named  from  a  northward  bend  in 
the  river,  and  it  is  the  northernmost  point  on  the 
Union  Pacific  in  the  State  of  Nebraska.  The 
population  is  about  300. 

Moffers — is  a  side-track,  will  eventually  be- 
come a  station ;  is  in  the  midst  of  a  rich  farm- 
ing countrv  ;  is  68.5  miles  from  Omaha,  and  has 
an  el<*vation  of  1.359  feet. 

SchUffler. — Thecouiity-seatof  Colfax  County, 
It  is  75.9  miles  from  Omaha,  with  an  elevation  of 
1,835  feet.     This  town  and  county,  perhaps,  is  as 


1,500  or  more.  Evidences  of  substantial  growth 
are  everywhere  visible.  The  town  has  about 
twenty  stores,  of  uU  kinds,  two  lirtels,  a  substan- 
tial brick  court-house,  five  churches,  a  beautiful 
school-house,  grai  ri  elevators,  etc.  New  buildinga 
to  accommodate  its  increasing  trade,  or  its  new 
residents,  are  constantly  going  up.  There  are 
th>-ee  flouring-niills  in  the  county,  on  Shell  Creek, 
a  beautiful  stream  fed  by  living  springs,  which 
runs  nearly  through  the  county  iiom  west  to  east, 
and  from  one  to  five  miles  north  of  the  railroad 
track.  The  land  in  this  county  is  most  excellent, 
especially  the  rolling  up-land  north  of  Shell  Creek. 
Some  of  the  finest  crops  of  spring  wheat  raised 
in  the  West  are  grown  in  this  vicinity.  The  peo- 
ple are  turning  their  attention  to  stock-raising 
more  than  formerly,  and  several  flocks  of  sheep 
and  herds  of  cattle  are  now  kept  in  the  county,  by 
some  of  its  enterprising  stock-men.  All  of  this 
accomplished  in  about  six  years.  Schuyler  is  the 
third  town  west  of  Omaha  that  has  a  bridge  across 
the  Platte,  Fremont  being  the  first.  These  bridges 
are  very  advantageous  to  the  trade  of  the  town* 
in  this  valley. 

Benton. — A  small  station  83.7  miles  from 
Omaha,  with  an  elevation  of  1,440  feet.  Up  to 
a  late  ])eriod  the  land  surrounding  this  station 
has  been  mostly  held  by  s^ieculators,  but  a  change 


2T 


having  been  effectod,  the  town  has  brighter  pros- 
pects. Lots  are  freely  given  away  to  parties  who 
will  build  on  them.  The  location  is  a  very  fine 
one  for  a  town,  and  it  is  surrounded  by  an  ex- 
cellent country.  It  is  the  last  town  west  in 
Colfax  County. 

CotainbUH — is  91.7  miles  from  Omaha.  It  is 
1,432  feet  above  the  sea.  A  beautiful  groving 
town,  with  a  rich  agricul,  ural  country  to  back 
it.  It  has  seven  churches,  school  buildings, 
brick  court-house,  grain  elevator  doing  a  large 
business.  Good  hotels  and  other  buildiiig  enter- 
prises contemplated.  It  is  located  at  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Loup  Fork,  with  the  Platte  Rivers, 
and  near  where  the  old  overland  emigrant  road 
crossed  the  first-named  stream.  It  now  has  a 
population  of  about  2,200  people,  and  supports 
two  newspapers  which  have  large  patronage  and 
circulation  ;  the  Journal,  which  was  first  estab- 
lished, and  tlie  Era.  Columbus  has  had  two 
lives  thus  far.  The  first  town-site  was  jumped 
by  a  party  of  Germans  from  Columbus,  O., 
from  which  it  takes  its  name.  Afterwards  the 
two  interests  were  consolidated.  It  was  the 
principal  town  west  of  Omaha  until  the  rail- 
road came-  The  old  town,  near  the  ferry  cross- 
ing, was  then  moved  to  its  present  site  near 
the  station.  The  old  town  had  two  or  three 
small  stores,  a  blacksmith's  shop,  and  saloons 
ad  Uhku'it  It  was  mostly  kept  alive  by  tiie 
westward  emigration.  At  that  time  the  Platte 
Valley  was  well  supplied  with  '  ranches  and 
ranchmen,  only  other  names  for  whisky-shops 
and  bar-tenders.  During  the  week  those  con- 
cerns would  pick  up  what  they  could  from  wagon 
trains,  and  Sundays  the  ranchmen  would  crowd 
into  Columbus  to  spnnd  it — the  sharpers  improv- 
ing the  opportunity  to  fleece  the  victims  of  their 
seductive  wiles.  At  this  time  no  attention  what- 
ever was  paid  to  agricultural  pursuits.  On  the 
advent  of  the  railroad  in  1866,  the  wood-chop- 
pers, the  freighters,  the  ranchmen  and  others, 
lured  by  the  charms  of  a  frontier  life,  jumped 
the  town  and  country.  They  could  not  endure 
the  proximity  to,  and  restiaints  of  civilization. 
Then  the  second  or  new  life  of  the  town  be- 
^an.  Farmers  began  to  come  in,  and  it  was 
tound  by  actual  exfwriinent  that  the  soil  was 
immensely  prolific ;  that  it  had  only  to  be  tickled 
with  the  plow  in  order  to  laugh  with  the  golden 
harvests.  In  the  lapse  of  the  few  brief  years 
of  its  second  or  permanent  growth,  it  has  be- 
come a  great  grain  market,  and  probably  ships 
more  car-loads  each  year  (1,78.5  car-loads  last  year) 
than  any  other  town  on  the  line  of  the  road. 
Men  draw  grain  from  seventy  to  eighty  miles  to 
this  place  Tor  a  market.  It  has  access  to  the 
country  south  of  the  I^oup  and  Platte  Rivel-s,  by 
means  of  good,  substantial  bridges  ;  while  the 
country  north  of  it  is  as  fine  rolling  prairie  as 
can  be  found  in  any  part  of  the  VVest — well 
watered  and  adapted  to  either  grazing  or  the 


growing  of  crops.  The  men  who  first  came  to 
Cohunbus  were  nearly  all  poor,  and  it  has  been 
built  up  and  improved  by  the  capital  they  have 
acquired  through  their  own  industrious  toil. 
The  town  has  a  good  bank,  without  a  dollar  of 
foreign  capital.  The  A.  &  N.  R.  R.  runs  south- 
east to  Atchison,  and  Niobrara  and  Black  Hills 
Branch  U.  P.  R.  R,  northward  to  Norfolk.  In  the 
immediate  vicinity  are  large  quantities  of  good 
lands  which  are  held  at  low  prices.  These  are 
only  a  few  of  the  many  advantages  which  Colum- 
bus offers  to  those  in  search  of  future  homes. 

JIow  Liilf'alo  liobes  fire  Made. — George 
Clother  is  one  of  the  proprietors  of  the  Clother 
House  at  Columbus,  Neb.  It  is  one  of  the  best 
home-like  hostelries  in  the  West.  Air.  Clother 
is  an  old  resident,  having  been  in  Columbus  six- 
teen years.  When  he  first  came,  the  country  was 
more  or  less  overrun  with  wandering  tribes  of 
Indians,  among  whom  were  the  Pawnees,  the 
Omahas,  the  Sioux,  and  occasionally  a  stray  band 
from  some  other  tribe.  In  those  days  he  was 
accustomed  to  traffic  in  furs  and  robes,  and  tho 
business  has  grown  with  his  increasing  acquaint- 
ance, until  it  is  now  both  large  and  profitable, 
though  wit:i  the  disappearance  of  both  Indians 
and  buffaloes,  it  is  liable  to  dt-crease  in  the  future. 
General  Sheridan,  we  think  it  was,  said  that  the 
vexed  Indian  qufstion  would  be  settled  with  the 
fate  of  the  buffaloes — that  both  would  disappear 
together.  During  the  past  few  years,  the  slaugh- 
ter of  these  proud  nionarchs  r *"  the  plains,  has 
been  immense,  and  will  continue,  unless  Congress 
interposes  a  friendly  and  saving  hand.  It  is  safe 
to  say,  that  millions  of  them  have  been  killed 
for  their  hides  alone,  or  "  just  for  fun,"  which  in 
this  case  amounts  to  the  same  thing,  as  their 
hides  have  been  repeatedly  sold  for  less  than  a 
dollar,  and  regularly  not  more  than  $1.50.  This 
slaughtering  has  taken  place  principally  in  the 
Platte,  Republican,  Solomon,  and  Arkansas  Val- 
leys, and  where  a  few  years  since,  travelers  could 
see  countless  thousands  of  them  from  the  car 
windows  and  platforms,  on  cither  the  Union 
Pacific,  Kansas  Pacific  or  Atchison,  Topeka  & 
Santa  Fe  Railroads,  they  now,  probably  will  see 
but  few,  if  any.  Their  hides  have  been  shipped 
Ei'st,  where  they  make  a  poor  quality  of  leather. 
Those  only  which  are  taken  l;ile  in  the  fall  and 
during  the  winter  months  of  Jamiary  and  Febru- 
ary, are  fit  for  robes.  The  hair  at  this  season  of 
the  year,  is  thick  and  firmly  set. 

About  the  time  this  killing  process  began  in 
1870,  Mr.  Clother  entered  upon  the  work  of  tan- 
ning robe-s,  employing  for  this  purpose  the  squaws 
of  the  Pawnee  and  Omaha  tribes.  The  Pawnee 
reservation  was  only  a  short  distance  from  Co- 
lumbus, and  the  "Bucks"  were  glad  of  the 
opportunity  of  employment  for  their  squaws. 
Labor  is  beneath  then*  dignity,  and  they  despise  it. 
Resides  this,  tanning  robes  is  hard  and  slow  work, 
and  in  their  opinion,  just  fit  for  squaws.    For  a 


i& 


•^ 


few  years  the  squaws  of  both  of  the  tribes  named, 
have  been  engaged  by  Mi^  Clother,  but  the  de- 
parture of  the  Pawnees  to  their  reservation  in 
the  Indian  Territory,  prechided  the  iiossibility  of 
their  employment,  and  hence  in  the  winter  of 
1876,  the  Omahas  seem  to  have  a  monopoly  of  the 
work,  though  there  is  not  as  much  to  do  as  for- 
merly. We  visited  their  camp  to  inspect  the  proc- 
ess of  making  robes.  It  was  located  in  a  body 
of  heavy  timber,  with  a  thick  growth  of  under- 
brush, on  the  narrow  point  of  land  where  the 
Loup  Fork  and  Platte  Rivers  form  their  junction. 
The  low  bushes  made  a  perfect  wind-break,  and 
in  the  midst  of  the  tall  trees  their  Sibley  tents 
were  pitched.  The  barking  of  numerous  dogs 
greeted  our  approach,  and  after  making  a  few 
inquiries  of  one  or  two  wlio  could  talk  broken 


English,  we  crawled  into  the  tent  occupied  by 
the  "  Bucks,"  whom  we  found  intensely  interested 
in  gambling — playing  a  game  with  cards  called 
"21."  In  this  tent  were  nine  "Bucks  "  and  one 
squaw;  three  sat  stolidly  by — disinterested  wit- 
nesses of  the  game ;  the  squaw  was  engaged  at 
some  very  plain  needle-work,  and  occasionally 
jKtked  the  partly  burned  brands  into  the  fire, 
which  was  in  the  center  of  the  tent,  and  over 
which  hung  a  kettle  of  boiling  meat;  the  re- 
maining six,  sitting  ujx)n  a  blanket  a  la  Turk, 
were  shuffling  and  dealing  the  cards.  Of  course 
they  i^lay  for  money,  and  before  them  were  sev- 
eral quarters  in  currency,  and  several  silver  quar- 
ters, with  some  small  sticks,  which  were  used  as 
money,  and  which  enabled  them  to  keep  an  ac- 
count with  each  other,  of  the  gains  and  losses. 
During  this  game  they  passed  around,  several 
times,  a  hollow-handled  tomahawk,  which  was 
used  as  a  pipe.  One  would  take  three  or  four 
whifFs,  then  pass  it  to  the  next,  and  so  on,  until 
it  liad  been  passed  around  seveial  times.  One  of 
these  "Bucks"  was  called  "Spafford."  He 
could  talk  English  quite  well.  After  a  while  we 
asked  "  Sjiafford  "  to  show  us  some  robea,  but  he 


TME  ^m€iFw  woummw. 


:c...  ''■.■^.. 


tent  occupied  by 
ntensely  interested 
5  with  cards  culled 
"  Bucks  "  and  one 
-disinterested  wit- 
iw  was  engaged  at 
,  and  occasionally 
mds  into  tlie  fire, 
the  tent,  and  over 
ing  meat;  the  re- 
)lanket  a  la  Turk, 
!  cards.  Of  course 
ore  them  were  sev- 
aeveral  silver  quar- 
i^hich  were  used  as 
lem  to  keep  an  ac- 
»  gains  and  losses. 
'd  aiound,  several 
ihawk,  which  was 
iake  three  or  four 
;t,  and  so  on,  until 
jral  times.  One  of 
"  Spafford."      He 

Alter  a  while  we 
some  robea,  but  he 


pointed  in  the  direction  of  his  tent,  and  indicated 
where  they  could  be  found.  He  said  he  could 
not  leave  the  game  just  then.  We  went  to  r.is 
tent  where  we  found  his  mother,  who  showed  us 
two  robes,  one  of  which  was  hers — a  smaller  one 
which  she  held  at  six  dollars.  Spafford  had  pre- 
viously told  us  that  ill'J.OO  was  the  price  of  his 
robe.  We  then  began  to  look  for  other  robes, 
and  saw  them  in  various  stages  of  completion. 
The  process  of  tanning  is  simple,  and  yet,  Indian 
tanned  robes  far  excel  those  tanned  by  white 
men,  in  finish  and  value.  When  the  liides  are 
first  taken  from  the  animals,  they  must  be 
stretched  and  dried,  flesh  side  up ;  if  they  are 
not  in  this  condition  when  the  squaws  receive 
them,  they  must  do  it.  After  they  are  thor- 
oughly dried,  the  squaws  then  take  all  the  flesh 
off,  and  reduce  them  to  an  even  thickness,  with 
an  instrument,  which,  for  want  of  a  better  name, 
may  be  termed  an  adze ;  it  is  a  little  thin  piece 
of  iron,  about  two  inches  long  on  the  edge,  and 
two  and  a  half  inches  deep.  This  is  firmly  tied 
to  a  piece  of  the  thigh  bone  of  an  elk,  and  is 
used  the  same  as  a  small  garden  hoe,  by  eivstern 
farmers  in  cutting  up  weeds.  When  the  requi- 
site thickness  is  obtained,  the  flesh  side  is  cov- 
ered with  a  preparation  of  lard,  soap  and  salt,  and 
the  robe  is  then  rolled  up  and  laid  by  for  two 
or  three  days.  It  is  then  unrolled  and  again 
,  stretched  on  a  frame,  like  a  quilt,  with  flesh  side 
to  the  sun ;  in  this  shape  it  is  scraper'  with  a 
thin,  cval-shaped  piece  of  iron  or  steel,  resem- 
bling a  kitchen  chopping-knife  without  the  han- 
dle; this  process  usually  lasts  about  two  days. 
The  robe  is  then  taken  from  the  frame,  and 
drawn  across  a  rope  stretched  between  two  trees, 
with  the  flesh  side  to  the  rope,  until  it  becomes 
thoroughly  dry  and  soft.  This  last  process 
iiiakes  it  very  pliable,  requires  a  good  deal  of 
time  and  strength,  and  renders  the  robe  ready 
for  market.  Before  the  Indians  came  in  con- 
tact with  civilization,  they  used  sharpened  pieces 
of  bone,  instead  of  the  pieces  of  iron  we  have 
named,  and  in  place  of  the  preparation  of  lard, 
soap  and  salt,  they  u.sed  buffalo  brains,  which  are 
considered  altogctluir  preferable  to  this  mixture; 
the  brains  of  cattle  are  also  used  when  they  can 
be  obtained ;  but  the  robes  are  taken  out  on  the 
plains,  or  in  the  Platte  and  Republican  Vallej-s, 
and  brought  here  by  wagon  or  rail,  and  of  course 
the  brains  cannot  very  well  be  brought  with 
them.  The  squaws  laughed  when  we  pulled  out 
our  note-book  and  began  to  write,  being  evidently 
as  much  astonished  and  interested  as  we;  they 
looked  with  wonder  at  the  V)ook,  pencil,  and  the 
words  we  wrote.  While  the  lazy  "  Bucks."  sit  in 
their  tents  and  gamble,  the  squaws  are  laboring 
hard  to  secure  means  for  their  support.  An 
Indian  is  constitutionally  opposed  to  labor.  He 
is  eWdently  tired  all  the'time. 

lHuu-€Ut — So  called  from  a  former  conduc- 
tor of  the  Union  Paciflc — is  99.3  miles  from 


Omaha,  with  an  elevation  of  1,470  feet.  The 
Ix)up  Va'lcy  is  just  over  the  hills  to  your  right, 
and  the  magnificent  Platte  bottom  lands  are  still 
stretching  out  before  you.  It  has  one  or  two 
stores  aud  bears  a  thrifty  appearance;  at  one 
time  it  was  supposed  that  this  ))lace  or  Columbus 
would  be  made  the  end  of  a  division,  but  nothing 
has  been  developed  on  this  subject  within  the 
past  few  years. 

Silver  Creeh — 109.4  miles  from  Omaha,  and 
1,5.'54  feet  above  the  sea.  It  is  the  first  station 
in  Merrick  County,  as  Duncan  was  the  last  in 
Platte  County.  North  of  this  station  is  the 
Pawnee  rt^servation,  one  of  the  finest  twdies  of 
land  yet  unoccupied  in  the  State.  This  once 
I)owerlul  tribe,  between  whom  and  the  Sioux  a 
deadly  hostility  exists,  has  dwindled  down  to 
small  numbers,  and  during  1875,  they  abandoned 
their  reservation  entirely  a.id  went  to  the  Indian 
Territory.  An  attempt  was  made  a  shoit  time 
since  to  sell  a  part  of  this  reservation  at  an  ap- 
praised valuation,  but  it  was  not  successful,  and 
efforts  are  now  being  made  to  bring  it  into 
market  under  the  preemption  laws  of  the  govern- 
ment at  a  fixed  price,  (.12.50  per  acre)  the  pro- 
ceeds of  which  are  to  go  to  the  tribe  on  their 
new  resei-vation.  When  this  takes  place  Silver 
Creek  will  have  a  great  impetus  to  its  growth 
and  trade,  as  it  is  the  nearest  railroad  station  to 
this  reservation. 

Clai'k. — Named  after  S.  H.  H.  Clark,  gene- 
ral superintendent  of  the  Union  Pacific;  it  is 
sometimes  called  Clark's,  Clarksville  and  Clark's 
Station.  It  is  120.7  miles  from  the  eastern 
terminus  of  the  road,  with  an  elevation  of  l,61u 
feet.  It  has  three  stores,  school-house,  church, 
shops  and  dwellings,  and  is  doing  a  fine  trade ; 
with  a  rich  country  around  it,  and  the  Pawnee 
resenation  soon  to  be  opened  on  the  north,  it  is 
destined  to  become  a  thrifty  town. 

Central  Citi/. — The  county-seat  of  Merrick 
County  ;  has  two  or  three  churches,  several  stores, 
a  brick  court-house,  school-house,  hotels  and  nu- 
mer6us  other  buildings.  Here  is  a  bridge  across 
the  Platte.  Population  650.  The  Burlington 
and  Missouri  River  Bailroa^l  fonns  a  junc- 
tion with  the  Union  Pacific,  here.  Local  dis- 
sensions hare  injured  the  town  in  the  past,  and 
must  operate  to  retard  its  growth  in  the  future. 
About  three  miles  west  of  this  place  a  new  side 
track  has  been  put  in.  It  is  yet  unnamed,  though 
it  will  probably  be  called  Lone  Tree,  and  it  is  ex- 
pt.cted  that  a  post-otfice  with  the  same  name  will 
be  established  Merrick  County  has  two  flourinf?- 
mills,  both  of  which  are  run  by  water,  taL<sn 
from  the  Platte  River.  The  identical  "lone  tree," 
from  which  the  place  was  named,  has  long  since 
disappeared,  but  numerous  groves  of  cotton-wood 
are  everywhere  visible.  For  40  miles  here  the 
railroad  track  is  perfectly  straight. 

Chapman. — 142.3  miles  from  Omaha,  and 
1,760  feet  above  the  sea.    It  is  named  after  a 


80 


former  road-master  of  the  Union  Pacific.  The 
town  has  two  stores,  school-house,  and  other 
buildings,  and  is  in  the  midst  of  a  fine,  tbickl}' 
settled  country. 

liockwootl— is  117.8  miles  from  Omaha,  with 
an  elevation  of  1,8U()  feet.  It  is  a  side  track 
where  trains  meet  and  pass.  A  store  has  re- 
cently been  opened  where  a  lively  trade  is  done. 

Gfantl  Islaud. — The  end  of  the  first  divi- 
sion of  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad,  153.8  miles 
from  Omaha,  and  1,850  feet  above  the  sea.  The 
town  is  named  after  an  island  in  the  Platte  River, 
which  is  some  forty  miles  long,  and  from  one  to 
three  miles  in  width.  It  was  first  settled  by  a 
colony  of  Germans  from  Davenport,  la.,  in  1857. 
The  island  is  thickly  settled,  nearly  every  quar- 
ter section  being  occupied  by  a  thrifty  farmer. 
The  soil  is  wonderfully  prolific,  being  composed 
of  a  black  vegetable  mold,  and  is  especially 
adapted  to  corn  raising.  The  old  town  site  of 
Grand  Island  was  south  of  the  present  site,  on 
the  old  emigrant  road.  The  first  three  years  of 
this  town  were  very  severe  on  the  settlers.  They 
had  to  haul  all  their  supplies  from  Omaha,  and 
part  of  this  time  they  were  obliged  to  live  on 
short  rations.  They  immediately  began  the  cul- 
tivation of  the  soil,  but  at  first  had  no  market 
for  their  crops.  This  was  soon  remedied,  how- 
ever, by  the  opening  of  a  market  at  Fort  Kearny, 
some  forty  miles  west,  where  they  obtained  good 
prices  for  everything  they  could  raise.  In  a 
short  time,  the  rush  to  Pike's  Peak  began,  and 
as  this  was  the  last  place  on  the  route  where  emi- 
grants could  obtain  grain  and  other  supplies,  the 
town  grew,  and  many  who  ar  j  now  in  good  cir- 
cumstances, then  laid  the  ff  undations  of  their 
prosperity.  In  this  vicinity  stray  buffaloes  first 
appeared  to  the  early  settlers  of  the  valley.  They 
never  came  in  large  herds,  but  when  hunted  by 
the  Indians  further  west  and  south  in  the  Repub- 
lican Valley  they  would  be  seen  wandering  near 
this  place.  While  the  war  was  in  progress,  the 
settlers  frequently  saw  war  parties  of  the  Sioux 
pass  to  and  from  the  Pawnee  camp  on  the  high 
bluffs  south  of  the  Platte  River,  and  opposite 
Fremont.  When  they  returned  from  their  at- 
tacks, they  would  exliibit  the  scalps  they  had 
taken,  and  manifest  great  glee  as  they  swung 
them  through  the  air,  dangling  from  their 
spears.  In  the  early  spring  of  1859.  the  stages 
from  Omaha  began  to  run.  At  first  they  came 
once  a  week,  then  twice,  and  later,  daily.  Then 
the  telegraph  line  was  put  up.  Meanwhile  the 
trans-continentai  railroad  was  agitated,  and  as  it 
became  more  and  more  talked  about,  the  settlers 
here  fondly  hoped  that  they  were  on  the  exact 
spot  where  the  three  converging  lines,  as  first 
proposed,  would  meet.  But  they  were  doomed 
to  disappointment.  The  Union  Pacific,  Eastern 
Division,  now  the  Kansas  Pacific,  grew  into  an 
independent  line,  while  the  Sioux  City  &  Pacific 
had  its  course  changed,  finally  uniting  with  the 


Union  Pacific  at  Fremont.  But  the  railroad 
came  at  last  in  1866.  The  heavy  l)odies  of  tim- 
ber on  the  islands  in  the  river  and  between  the 
Platte  and  Wood  Rivers  were  nearly  all  taken  for 
cross-ties.  It  was  only  cotton-wood,  but  it  would 
hold  the  spikes  and  rails  for  a  few  years  until 
others  could  be  obtained.  Then  the  buildings 
on  the  old  town  site  were  moved  up  to  the  rail- 
road and  the  town  began  to  grow.  The  round- 
house for  the  steam-horses  was  built,  and  the 
town  was  made  the  end  of  a  division  of  the  road. 
An  eating-house  was  erected,  and  stores,  shops, 
and  dwellings  followed  in  quick  succession.  It 
is  the  county-seat  of  Hall  County,  and  the  first 
station  in  the  county  from  the  east.  It  has  a 
fine  large  brick  court-house,  three  church  edi- 
fices, school-house,  hotels,  bank,  and  one  of  the 
largest  steam  flouring-mills  in  the  State.  This 
is  one  of  the  regular  dining-stations  on  the  road. 
In  1875  the  company  put  up  an  elegant  hotol 
for  the  accommodation  of  the  traveling  public, 
at  which  all  passenger  trains  stop  for  meals. 
It  is  exceedingly  well  kept,  and  under  its  pres- 
ent management  will  command  the  patronage 
of  the  public.  Like  all  other  towns  of  any 
importance  in  this  valley.  Grand  Island  hopes 
and  expects  more  railroads.  The  St.  Joseph 
and  Western  Division  of  the  Union  Pacific 
runs  to  St.  Joseph,  and  the  St.  Paul  Branch  of 
^le  Union  Pacific  runs  northward  to  St.  Paul, 
Neb. ,  22  miles.  A  line  is  also  projected  to  the 
northwest,  and  one  to  the  northeast  to  reach 
Si  oux  ^ity.  Its  present  population  is  about3,000, 
and  its  prospects  for  the  future  are  flattering. 

The  countiy  in  this  immediate  vicinity  is  well 
settled  by  a  thrifty  class  of  German  farmers,  who 
have  dug  wealth  from  the  soil,  and  when  rations 
were  scarce  and  border  scares  frequent,  still  hung 
on  to  their  claims.  The  road  came  in  1886,  and 
gave  them  coriununication  with  the  outer  world. 
The  location  of  the  roundhouse  and  necessary 
repair  shops,  for  the  division,  is  a  gieat  help  to 
the  town,  as  they  give  employment  to  quite  a 
number  of  skilled  mechanics.  It  is  also  the  lo- 
cation  of  the  government  land  office  for  the 
Grand  Island  land  district.  It  has  two  weekly 
newspapers,  the  Times  and  Independent,  both  of 
which  are  well  conducted.  The  new  eating- 
house,  elsewhere  spoken  of.  is  the  finest  on  the 
road,  though  less  expensive  than  many.  It  cost 
about  $15,000.  This  is  a  breakfast  and  supper 
station,  and  the  company  has  furnished  ample 
accommodations  for  tne  patrons  of  this  house. 

After  leaving  Grand  Island,  a  magnificent 
stretch  of  prairie  country  opens  to  view.  The 
same  may  be  said  of  the  entire  valley,  but  the 
view  in  other  places  is  more  limited  by  bluffs 
and  hills  than  here.  After  passing  Silver  Creek, 
there  is  a  section  of  the  road,  move  than  forty 
miles,  in  a  straight  line,  but  the  extent  of  prairie 
brought  into  vision  there  is  not  as  large  as  here. 
Up  to  this  point,  you  have  doubtless  witnessed 


31 


But  the  railroad 
eavy  Indies  of  tim- 
I'er  and  between  the 

nearly  all  taken  lor 
i-wood,  but  it  would 
r  a  few  years  until 
Then  the  buildings 
jved  up  to  the  rail- 
grow.  The  round- 
was  built,  and  the 
division  of  the  road. 
1,  and  stores,  shops, 
lick  succession.  Jt 
ounty,  and  the  first 
the  east.     It  has  a 

three  church  edi- 
uk,  and  one  of  the 
n  the  State.     This 
tations  on  the  road. 
p  an  elegant  hotel 
le  traveling  public, 
ns  stop  for  meals, 
and  under  itspres- 
land  the  patronage 
(her  towns  of  any 
rand  Island  hopes 
.     The  St.  Joseph 
;he  Union  Pacifio 
it.  Paul  Branch  of 
iward  to  St.  Paul, 
o  projected  to  the 
northeast  to  reach 
ation  is  about3,000, 
ire  are  flattering, 
iale  vininity  is  well 
irman  fainiers,  who 
I,  and  when  rations 
frequent,  still  hung 
came  in  1886,  and 
th  the  outer  world, 
luse  and  necessary 
is  a  great  help  to 
oyment  to  quite  a 

It  is  also  the  lo. 
and  office  for  the 
It  has  two  weekly 
^dependent,  both  of 
The  new  eating- 
?  the  finest  on  the 
lan  many.     It  cost 
?akfast  and  supper 
s  furnished  ample 
IS  of  this  house, 
id,  a    magnificent 
ins  to  view.     The 
ire  valley,  but  the 
limited  by  bluifs 
tsing  Silver  Creek, 
I,  move  than  forty 
e  extent  of  prairie 
tt  as  large  as  here. 
)ubtless  witnessed 


j 


many  groves  of  cotton-wood  around  the  numer- 
ous dwellings  you  have  passed,  but  they  begin  to 
diminish  now — nearly  the  last  of  them  oeiag 
seen  at 

Alda, — the  next  station,  some  eight  miles 
west  of  Grand  Island,  101.5  miles  from  Omaha, 
at  an  elevation  of  1,007  feet.  There  are  one  or 
two  stores,  a  school-house,  and  several  dwellings. 
It  is  two  miles  east  of  Wood  River,  which  is 
spanned  by  a  first-class  iron  bridge.  All 
regular  passenger  trains  stop  at  this  station  and 
receive  and  deliver  mails.  In  other  parts  of  the 
country.  Wood  River  would  be  called  a  rivulet  or 
small  brook,  but  such  streams  are  frequently  dig- 
nified with  the  name  of  rivers  in  the  'Vest.  It 
forms  a  Junction  with  the  North  Cha  al  of  the 
Platte  River,  just  south  of  Grand  Island.  Its  rise 
is  in  the  bluns  across  the  divide,  north  of  Plum 
Creek,  and  its  general  course  is  due  east.  The 
road  runs  along  its  southern  bank  for  several 
miles,  and  in  several  places  it  is  fringed  with 
timber.  When  the  road  was  first  built  through 
here,  it  was  well  timbered,  but  it  was  nearly  all 
taken  for  construction  purposes  and  fuel.  In 
early  days,  say  in  1859-60,  this  valley  was  the 
frontier  settlement  of  the  West,  and  a  few  of 
the  old  pioneer  lo^  houses  are  still  standing, 
though  very  much  dilapidated.  The  settlers  had 
a  few  "  Indian  scares,"  and  lost  some  stock,  but 
beyond  this,  no  great  depredation  was  done.  Fort 
Kearny  was  their  first  market-place  to  which 
they  hauled  their  surplus  grain  and  provisions. 
Though  Wood  River  is  so  small,  it  nevertheless 
supplies  three  flcuring-mills  with  power  for 
grinding,  and  there  are  several  mill  sites  unoc- 
cupied. The  first  mill  is  near  the  iron  bridge 
already  spoken  of,  and  the  others  will  be  noticed 
further  on. 

Wood  River — is  the  name  of  the  next  sta- 
tion. It  has  two  or  three  stores,  several  dwellings, 
and  a  new  depot  building.  It  is  169.6  miles  from 
Omaha,  and  1,974  feet  above  the  sea.  The  old 
station  was  two  milas  further  west,  and  the  Cath- 
olic church  still  remains  to  mark  the  place  where 
it  stood.  The  countiy  around  here  Vas  first 
settled  by  some  Irish  families;  they  are  indus- 
trious and  worthy  citizens,  and  have  developed 
some  fine  farms.  Prairie,  or  blue  joint-grass  has 
bfien  principally  seen  thus  far,  but  now  you  will 
observe  patches  of  buffalo  grass  which  increase 
as  you  go  west,  and  of  which  we  shall  speak 
hereafter.  This  is  the  last  station  in  Hall 
County. 

S/ielton — comes  next — a  side  track,  depot,  a 
few  dwellings,  and  another  of  those  flouring- 
mills  spoken  of.  In  January,  1876,  the  water  in 
Wood  River  was  sufficient  to  keep  three  run  of 
burrs  going  in  this  mill  for  about  twenty  out  of 
*very  twenty-four  hours.  The  flour  made  at 
aearly  all  the  mills  on  the  Union  Pacific  finds  a 
Xeady  market  in  the  mountain  towns  west,  to 
Whicn  it  is  usually  shipped.    Shelton  was  named 


after  a  former  cashier  of  the  Union  Pacific 
road  at  Omaha.  It  has  an  elevation  of  2,010 
feet,  and  is  177.4  miles  from  the  eastern  terminus 
of  the  road. 

SuvcexHful  Farmiufi.  —  The  little  farms 
which  now  fill  up  the  Platte  Vailey  as  far  as 
North  Platte  are  occupied  by  people  who  came 
from  the  older  States,  with  very  little  cash  capi- 
tal, and  by  homesteading  or  warrant  or  purchase 
from  the  railroad  on  time,  they  have  made  many 
a  snug  home.  To  show  v/hat  has  been  done  by 
real  industry,  we  quote  from  actual  records  the 
figures  of  the  success  of  a  farmer  in  Platte  County. 
Beginning  with  the  year  1867,  aiid  up  to  the  year 
1874,  seven  years,  he  cultivated  in  wheat  and 
corn,  an  average  of  sixty  to  eighty  acres  wheat, 
and  fifty  acres  corn;  total  130  acres.  His  re- 
ceipts from  these  two  crops  only,  in  seven  years, 
was  $13,314.05;  expenses,  $4,959.92;  profits, 
$8,354.13,  besides  increase  of  value  of  land,  which 
is  fully  $2,000  more.  This  is  what  was  done 
with  a  capital  of  less  than  $2,000. 

Tree  I*lantiug  in  Nebraska. — The  Ne- 
braskans  celebrate  a  special  day  in  the  spring 
months  as  a  holiday,  in  which  the  entire  popula- 
tion join  hands  in  a  hearty  exercise  at  tree  plant- 
ing; this  is  called  Arbor  Day.  Travelers  will 
notice  from  the  car  windows  on  their  first  day's 
ride  westward  from  Omaha,  quite  a  number  of 

{)retty  groves  of  trees,  planted  both  as  wind- 
>reaks  for  their  farms,  and  also  for  timber  plant- 
ations. The  tree  most  popular  is  the  cotton- 
wood,  which  grows  very  easily,  sure  to  start,  and  is 
quite  luxuriant  in  foliage ;  however  it  is  valuable 
for  shelter  and  stove-  X)d  only,  not  for  manu- 
factures. As  an  instance  of  rapidity  of  growth, 
there  are  trees  in  the  Platte  Valley,  which  planted 
as  cuttings,  have  in  thirteen  years  measured  22 
inches  in  diameter.  Little  boys  are  tempted  by 
large  premiums  from  their  parents  to  test  their 
capacity  at  tree  planting  on  Arbor  Day,  and  as- 
tonishing rapidity  has  occasionally  been  known, 
one  farmer  in  one  day  having  planted  from  sun- 
rise to  sundown,  14,000  trees,  and  in  the  course 
of  one  spring  season,  over  200,000.  Settlers,  as 
fast  as  they  arrive,  aim  to  accomplish  two  things. 
First,  to  break  the  sod  for  a  corn  field ;  next,  to 
plant  timber  shelter.  The  winds  which  blow 
from  the  west  are  very  constant,  often  fierce,  and 
a  shelter  is  of  immense  value  to  stock  and  fruit 
trees.  Hedges  of  white  willow,  several  miles  in 
length,  have  been  laid,  which  at  five  years  from 
cuttings,  have  made  a  perfect  fence  15  feet  high; 
one  farm  alone  has. four  miles  of  such  continu- 
ous fence,  which  at  four  years  of  age  was  a  com- 
plete protection.  The  rapidity  of  growth  in  the 
rich  alluvial  soil  of  the  Platte  Valley  reminds 
one  of  tropical  luxuriance.  A  grove  of  white 
ash,  in  twelve  years,  has  grown  to  an  average  of 
26  inches  in  circumference,  and  30  feet  nigh. 
Walnut  trees,  in  eight  years,  have  measured  22 
inches  in  circumference,  and  25  feet  high.    Ma- 


llJil 


Vm 


11'!! 


hi! 


>    8 1  m 


EMINENT  AMERICAN  EXPLORERS  AND  ARTISTS. 
1.— €«n.  Custer.    2.— Oen.  Fremont.    3.— Lieut.  Wheeler.    4.— Prof.  P.  V.  Hayden.    S.— Albert  RlaMi.>vi» 

6.-M*].  J.  W.  Powell.    T.-Thomaa  Moran.  «»•"  mewwfll. 


FMM  i^siCirW  TOW^tST. 


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«rtBI«nUun. 


pletrees.of  twelve  year8,mea8ure43  inches  around 
lour  feet  from  the  ground.  Elms  of  fourteen 
years,  show  36  inches  in  girt,  and  a  foot  in  diam- 
eter. Honey  Locusts,  eleven  years  of  age,  are  30 
feet  high,  and  30  inches  around.  Cotton-wood 
trees,  ot  thirteen  years,  have  reached  66  inches  in 
circumference,  and  22  inches  in  diameter.  White 
willow,  same  age,  45  inches  in  circumference. 
Nebraska  planted  10,000,(I0()  tiees  in  1878. 

OihttoH, — the  last  station  on  Wood  River,  is 
182.9  miles  from  the  Missouri  by  rail,  and  has  an 
elevation  of  2,046  feet.  It  was  formerly  the 
county-seat  of  Buifalo  County,  and  had  a  fine 
brick  court-hou><e  erected.  But  the  county-seat 
was  voted  to  Kearny  Junction  in  1874,  and  the 
building  is  now  used  for  school  purposes.  It  has 
a  hotel,  several  stores,  and  another  of  those  flour- 
ing-mills,  in  plain  sight  from  the  track.  The 
Platte  River  is  .some  three  miles  distant,  to  the 
south,  and  glistens  in  the  sunlight  like  a  streak 
of  silver;  the  level  prairie  between  is  studded 
with  farm-houses,  and  in  the  late  summer  or 
early  autumn  numerous  stacks  of  grain  and  hay 
are  everywhere  visiole  around  the  farmers' 
homes.  The  bluffs,  south  of  the  Platte,  rear 
their  low  heads  in  the  distance,  and  your  vision 
is  lost  on  prairie,  prairie,  prairie,  as  you  look 
to  the  north.  Beautiful  as  these  prairies  are  in 
the  spring  and  early  summur,  their  blackened 
surface  in  the  fall,  if  burned,  or  their  dull  drab 
color,  if  unburned,  is  monotonous  and  wearying. 

J?ttrf«.— has  an  elevation  of  2,106  feet,  is 
191.3  miles  from  Omaha.  The.  town  is  named 
Kearny,  and  takes  its  namt  from  General 
Kearny,  who  was  an  officer  ia  the  regular 
army  during  the  Mexican  war.  Old  Fort 
Kearny  was  located  near  this  station,  south 
of  the  Platte  River,  and  the  military  reser- 
vation of  government  land  still  remains, 
though  it  will  probably  soon  be  brought 
into  market.  The  rights,  if  they  have  any,  of 
"squatter  sovereigns"  will  here  be  tested,  as 
nearly  evei-y  quarter  section  in  the  w'.ole  reserve 
is  occupied  by  them,  some  of  whom  have  made 
valuable  improvements  in  the  shape  of  buildings, 
etc.  It  was  formerly  a  great  shipping  point  for 
cattle,  but  the  advancing  tide  of  settlements  has 
driven  stock-men,  like  the  Indians,  still  further 
west.  Occasionally,  however.  Texas  herds  are 
grazed  near  here,  and  the  herders  sometimes  visit 
Kearny  Junction,  a  few  miles  west,  and  attempt 
to  run  the  town;  they  murdered  a  man  there 
in  1875,  in  cold  blood — shot  him  dead  on  the 
threshold  of  his  own  door — and  this  so  incensed 
the  inhabitants  in  the  vicinity  that  they  will  not, 
probably,  allow  them  to  visit  the  towli  in  future. 
The  murderer  was  arrested,  has  been  convicted, 
and  time  will  tell  whether  he  will  oe  hung  or  not. 
Texas  herders,  as  a  class,  are  rough  fellows,  with 
lon^  hair  and  beard,  wide-rimmed  hats,  best 
fitting  boots  they  can  get,  large  spurs  jingling 
at  their  heels,  a  small  arsenal,  in  the  shape  of 


Colt's  revolvers,  strapped  to  their  waists  with 
a  careless  neyligne  appearance.  Their  chief  pleas- 
ure is  in  a  row ;  their  chief  drink  is  "  wiiisky 
straight,"  and  they  usually  seem  to  feel  better 
when  they  have  Killed  somebody.  Houses  of 
prostitution  and  tippling  saloons  follow  close  in 
their  wake.  They  are  generous  to  their  friends, 
dividing  even  the  last  dollar  with  a  comrade  who 
is  "  broke ;  "  cowardly,  treacherous  and  revenge- 
ful to  their  enemies.  Human  life  is  of  but  little 
account  with  them.  Their  life  is  one  of  constant 
exposure,  and  very  laborious.  They  are  perfect 
horsemen — usually  in  the  saddle  sixteen  out  of 
every  twenty-four  hours — and  their  great  ambi- 
tion seems  to  be  to  become  "a  devil  of  a  fellow," 
generally.  Nor  does  it  require  much  care  or  eft'ort 
on  their  part,  to  fill  the  bill.  Thousands  of  them 
on  the  plains  in  their  native  State,  in  Kansas, 
Colorado,  Wyoming,  and  Nebraska  "have  died 
with  their  boots  on,"  and  we  suppose  thousands 
more  will  perish  the  same  way.  Living  violent 
lives,  of  course  they  meet  with  violent  deaths. 
They  are  a  peculiar  race,  answering,  perhaps,  a 
peculiar  purpose.  The  community  m  which 
they  live,  and  the  countiy  generally,  will  be  bet- 
ter oft'  when  they  have  passed  away,  for  almost 
ninety-nine  out  of  every  nundred  goes 

"  Down  to  the  vile  dust  from  whence  be  sprung, 
Unwepc,  unhonored  and  unsung." 

Kearny  has  now  nothing  but  a  side  track, 
depot  and  water-tank,  with  a  section-house  and 
the  remains  of  an  old  corral  from  which  cattle 
used  to  be  shipped.  The  reservation  included 
not  only  land  on  l)oth  sides  of  the  river,  but  a 
large  island  which  extends  east  and  west  quite  a 
number  of  miles.  The  fort  was  south  of  the 
river,  and  scarcelv  a  vestige  now  remains  to 
mark  the  spot  where  the  buildings  formerly 
stood.  This  fort  was  built  in  1858,  by  Colonel 
Charles  May,  of  Mexican  war  fame.  Three 
miles  west  of  the  old  fort  was  Kearny  City, 
which  was  a  considerable  town  in  the  old  over- 
land times,  but  it  disappeared  with  the  advent  of 
the  railroad.  The  southern  part  of  the  reserva- 
tion is  covered  with  sand-hills,  and  useless,  ex- 
cept for  grazing.  Notice  how  the  buffalo  grass 
appears  and  how  its  extent  is  increased  as  you  go 
further  west.  The  new  houses  around  the  sta- 
tion, especially  those  of  the  squatters  on  the  reser- 
vation, are  increasing,  which  indicates  that  the 
country  is  fast  settling  up. 

Kearnu  Junction. — A  lively,  enterprising 
town,  195.3  miles  from  Omaha,  with  an  elevation 
of  2,150  feet.  It  is  the  junction  of  the  Burling- 
ton and  Missouri  Railroad  only,  and  owes  its 
rapid  development  to  this  fact  more  than  to  any- 
thing else.  Formerly  the  St.  Joe  and  Denver 
Railroad  ran  trains  to  this  place,  using  the  track 
of  the  Burlington  and  Missouri  from  Hastings, 
a  smart  little  town  twenty-four  ndles  south  of 
Grand  Island.  But  this  was  abandoned,  and 
the    road    has    been   built  to    Grand   Island 


84 


Uki 


1  .■ 


M  a  branch  of  the  Union  Pacific  Baihroad. 
Kearney  Junction  wfts  laid  out  by  the  town 
company  in  September,  1872,  about  the  same 
time  the  Burlington  and  Missouri  Bailroad 
arrived.  The  first  house  vras  built  in  August, 
1872,  and  the  town  has  grown  very  rapidly 
ever  since;  it  now  has  a  population  of  2,000 
souls,  six  church  edifices,  one  daily  news- 
paper— the  Press  J-  one  weekly — TAe  Times/ 
two  brick  bank  buildings,  and  other  brick 
blocks,  with  hotels,  numerous  stores,  school- 
house,  court-houHO,  etc.  It  has  a  daily  stage 
line  to  Bloomington,  a  thriving  town  some 
sixty  miles  south,  in  the  Republimn  Val- 
ley, and  quite  an  extensive  trade  from  it 
and  the  South  Loup  Valley  on  the  north ; 
some  of  the  stores  here  do  quite  a  wholesale 
trade.  The  town  is  finely  located  on  a  gradual 
slope,  and  from  the  hills  or  bluffs  on  iS  north 
side  the  land  in  seven  counties  can  be  distinctly 
seen ;  it  has  the  vim  and  ener^  which  usually 
characterizes  Western  towns;  it  is  an  aspirant 
for  the  capital  if  it  is  ever  moved  from  Lincoln, 
and  has  ground  on  the  hill  reserved  for  ihe  loca- 
tion of  the  State  buildings;  it  also  expects  a 
railroad  from  Siuux  City,  and  one  from  the  Re- 
publican Valley;  altogether  its  future  prospects 
are  bright.  Splendid  crops  of  wheat,  corn,  oats, 
barley,  broom-corn,  potatoes,  cabbages,  and 
onions  are  raised  in  this  vicinity  during  favorable 
seasons,  but  we  regard  the  stock  business  as  the 
best  paying  and  surest  investment  for  settlers ; 
the  buitalo  grass,  to  our  mind,  is  a  sure  indica- 
tion of  it.  Kearny  Junction  is  very  healthy, 
and  invalids  would  here  find  an  agreeable  resting- 
place. 

Stevenson — has  an  elevation  of  2,170  feet, 
and  is  201.2  miles  from  the  Missouri  River.  It 
is  simply  a  side  track  with  a  section-house  near 
by.  _  The  way  settlers  have  pushed  up  this  valley 
during  the  last  five  years,  is  marvelous. 

Blfn  Creek— ia  211.5  miles  from  Omaha, 
-with  an  elevation  of  2,241  feet.  In  the  fi  st  200 
miles  of  your  journey,  you  have  attained  an  alti- 
tude more  than  a  thousand  feet  above  Omaha, 
where  you  started,  and  yet  the  ascent  has  been  so 
gradual  that  you  have  scarcely  noticed  it.  Elm 
Creek  was  so  named  after  the  creek  which  you 
cross  just  after  leaving  the  station  going  west. 
It  was  formerly  heavily  timbered  wiui  elm,  ash, 
backberry  and  a  few  walnuts  and  cotton-woods ; 
but  the  necessities  of  the  road  when  it  was  built 
required  it  all  and  more  too.  The  town  has  one 
or  two  saloons,  stores,  school-house  and  a  few 
dwellings.  The  creek  rises  in  the  bluffs  north- 
west, and  sluggishly  worries  through  them  and 
the  sand,  till  it  is  finally  swallowed  up  b^  the 
Platte.  But  little  timber  remains  in  this  vicinity. 
The  next  station,  some  nine  miles  west  of  Elm 
Creek,  called 

Overton — has  the  usual  side  track,  school- 
house,  a  store  and  some  few  dwellings.    This 


valley,  to  this  point  and  beyond,  would  have  been 
thickly  settled  long  before  this  but  for  climatit; 
reasons  which  we  need  not  name.  The  Platte 
Valley  extends  on  either  side  here  nearly  as  far 
as  the  eye  can  reach.  The  town  is  220.5  miles 
from  Omaha,  at  an  elevation  of  2,^05  feet. 

Jotutelffu, — Aside  track;  will  eventually  be- 
come a  station ;  named  after  the  pay-master  of 
the  Union  Pacific  Road.  It  is  225.1  miles  from 
Omaha,  with  an  elevation  of  about  2,330  feet 
above  the  sea. 

Plum  Creek, — So  named  from  a  creek  on 
the  south  side  of  the  river,  which  flows  into  the 
Platte  nearly  opposite  the  town.  The  stage- 
station,  on  the  old  overland  road  was  located 
on  this  creek  and  in  those  days  it  was  considered 
quite  an  important  point  it  was  the  scene  of  b 
number  of  conflicts  with  the  savages — in  fact  one 
of  their  favorite  joints  of  attack;  eleven  white 
persons  were  killed  and  several  wounded  during 
one  of  these  attacks.  Four  miles  west  of  the 
present  town-site  they  captuied  and  burned  a 
train  of  cars  in  1 867 ;  one  of  the  train  men  was 
scalped  and  recently  was  still  living  in  or  near 
Omaha;  one  was  killed,  and  the  others,  we  be- 
lieve, made  their  escape.  Tlie  nature  of  the 
bluffs  here  is  such  that  they  had  a  good  oppor- 
tunity to  attack  and  escape  before  the  settlers 
and  emigrants  could  rally  and  give  them  battle. 
The  creek  rises  in  a  very  bluffy  region,  and  runs 
north-east  into  the  Platte.  Plum  Creek  is 
the  county-seat  of  Dawson  County;  has  about 
500  inhabitants  ;  a  fine  brick  court-house  with 
jail  underneath,  one  churcn  edifice,  school-house, 
two  or  three  hotels,  stores,  warehouses,  etc.  It  is 
a  point  where  considerable  broom-corn  is  pur- 
chased and  shipped;  has  a  semi-weekly  sta^e  line 
across  the  Republican  Valley  to  Norton,  in  the 
State  of  Kansas,  and  a  weekly  newspaper.  There 
is  a  substantial  wagon  bridge  across  the  Platte 
River,  nearly  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  length. 
It  is  located  in  the  midst  of  a  very  fine  grazing 
country,  though  in  favorable  seasons  crops  ha^e 
done  well.  With  irrigation,  perhaps  they  might 
be  made  a   certainty.     This   town   also  enjoyti 

?uite  a  trade  with  the  upper  Republican  Valley, 
t  was  formerly  a  favorite  range  for  buffaloes, 
and  large  quantities  of  their  bleaching  bones 
have  been  gathered  and  shipped  by  rail  to  St. 
Louis  and  places  east.  It  is  231.4  miles  from 
Omaha,  with  an  elevation  of  2,370  feet. 

Battle  with  the  Indiana  at  Plum 
Creek. — While  the  railroad  was  being  built, 
the  engineers,  graders  and  track-layers  were  fre- 
quently driven  from  their  work  by  the  Indians. 
Not  only  then,  but  after  the  track  was  laid  and 
trains  running,  it  was  some  times  torn  up  and 
trains  ditched,  causing  loss  of  lives  and  destruc- 
tion of  property.  One  of  these  attacks  took 
flace  near  Plum  Creek,  as  we  will  now  relate;, 
n  July,  1867,  a  train  was  ditched  about  four 
miles   west  of    the    above-named    station.      II 


35 


id,  would  have  been 
lis  but  for  climatii; 

mine.  The  Platte 
!  here  nearly  as  far 
own  is  1220.5  miles 
of  2,y05  feet. 

will  eventually  be- 
the  pay-master  of 

is  225.1  miles  from 
f   about  2,330  feet 

I  from  a  creek  on 
hich  flows  into  the 
town.     The  stage- 
road  was  located 

^s  it  was  considered 
was  the  scene  of  b 

lavages — in  fact  one 

;tack;  eleven  white 
al  wounded  during 
miles  west  of  the 

lied  and  burned  a 
the  train  men  was 

II  living  in  or  near 
the  otners,  we  be- 

riie  nature  of  the 

had  a  good  oppor- 
before  the  settlers 
1  give  them  battle, 
fy  region,  and  nuis 
Plum  Creek  is 
County;  has  about 
k  court-house  with 
difice,  school-house, 
rehouses,  etc.  It  is 
broom-corn  is  pur- 
mi-weekly  stage  line 
y  to  Norton,  in  the 
'  newspaper.  There 
re  across  the  Platte 
f  a  mile  in  length, 
a  very  fine  grazing 
seasons  crops  ha\e 
perhaps  they  might 

town  also  enjoyn 
Republican  Valley, 
range  for  buffaloes, 
ir  bleaching  bones 
3ped  by  rail  to  St. 
8  231.4  miles  from 
2,370  feet. 
ian8    at    Plum 

was  being  builti 
ick-layers  were  fre- 
irk  by  the  Indians. 
;rack  was  laid  and 
times  torn  up  and 

lives  and  destruc- 
hese  attacks  took 
'e  will  now  relat<!. 
litched  about  four 
imed    station.     II 


I 

I 
I 


was  by  a  band  of  southern  Chnyennes,  under  a 
chief  called  Turkey  Leg,  who  now  draws  his 
rations  regularly  from  Uncle  Sam,  at  the  Itt'd 
Cloud  agency.  He  is  a  vicious  looking  fellow, 
his  appearance  nuturally  suggesting  him  as  a  fit 
subject  for  a  hanging  bee.  At  a  small  bridge, 
or  culvert,  over  a  dry  ravine,  they  had  lifted  the 
iron  rails  from  their  chairs  on  the  ties — raising 
only  one  end  of  each  rail — about  three  feet,  pil- 
ing up  ties  under  them  for  support,  and  firmly 
lashing  the  rails  and  ties  together  by  wire  cut 
from  the  adjoining  telegraph  line.  They  were 
pretty  cunning  in  this  arrangement  of  the  rails, 
and  evidently  placed  them  where  they  thought 
they  would  penetrate  the  cylinder  on  each  side 
of  the  engine.  But  not  having  a  m.'chanical 
turn  of  mind  exactly,  and  disregarding  the  slight 
curve  in  the  road  at  this  point,  they  missed  their 
calculations,  as  the  sequel  shows,  as  one  of  the 
rails  did  no  execution  whatever,  and  the  other 
went  straight  into  and  through  the  boiler.  After 
they  had  fixed  the  rails  in  the  manner  described, 
they  retired  to  where  the  bench  or  second  bottom 
slopes  down  to  the  first,  and  there  concealed 
themselves  in  the  tall  grass,  waiting  for  the  train. 
Before  it  left  Plum  Creek,  a  hand-car  with  three 
section  men  was  sent  ahead  as  a  pilot.  This  car 
encountered  the  obstacle,  and  ran  into  the  ravine, 
bruising  and  stunning  the  men  and  frightening 
them  so  that  they  were  unable  to  signal  to  the 
approaching  train.  As  soon  as  the  car  landed  at 
the  bottom  of  the  ravine,  the  Indians  rushed  up, 
when  two  of  the  men,  least  hurt,  ran  away  in  the 
darkness  of  the  night — it  was  little  past  mid- 
night— and  hid  in  the  tall  grass  near  by.  The 
other,  more  stunned  by  the  fall  of  the  car,  was 
scalped  by  the  savages,  and  as  the  knife  of  the 
savage  passed  under  his  scalp,  he  seemed  to 
realize  his  condition  partly,  and  in  his  delirium 
wildly  threw  his  arms  out  and  snatched  the  scalp 
from  the  Indian,  who  had  just  lifted  it  from  his 
skull.  With  this  he,  too,  got  away  in  the  dark- 
ness, and  is  now  an  employe  of  the  company  at 
Omaha. 

But  the  fated  train  cami  on  without  any 
knowledge  of  what  had  transpired  in  front.  As 
the  engine  approached  the  ravine,  the  head-light 
gleaming  out  in  the  darkness  in  the  dim  dis- 
tance, fast  growing  less  and  less,  the  engineer. 
Brooks  Bowers  by  name,  but  familiarly  called 
"  Bully  Brooks "  by  the  railroad  men,  saw  that 
the  rails  were  displaced,  whistled  "down 
brakes,"  and  reversed  his  engine,  but  all  too  late 
to  stop  the  train.  The  door  of  the  fire-box  was 
open,  and  the  fireman  was  in  the  act  of  adding 
fuel  to  the  flames  within,  when  the  crash  came. 
That  fireman  was  named  Hendershot,  and  the 
boys  used  to  speak  of  him  as  "  the  drummer  boy 
of  the  Rappahannock,"  as  he  bore  the  same 
name,  and  might  have  been  the  same  person 
whose  heroic  deeds,  in  connection  with  Bum- 
tide's  attack  on  Fredericksburg;  are  now  matters 


of  history.  lie  was  thrown  apfainst  the  fire-box 
when  the  ravine  was  reached,  and  littsrally 
roasted  alive,  nothing  but  a  few  of  his  bones  Ik;- 
iiig  afterwards  found.  The  engineer  was  thrown 
ovt.T  the  lever  he  was  holding  in  his  hands, 
through  the  window  of  his  cab,  some  twenty  feet 
or  mure.  In  his  flight  the  lever  caught  and  rip- 
ped open  his  abdomen,  and  when  found  he  was 
sitting  on  the  ground  holding  his  protruding 
bowels  in  his  hands.  Next  to  the  engine  were 
two  flat  oars  loaded  with  brick.  These  were 
landed,  brick  and  all,  some  thirty  or  forty  feet 
in  front  of  the  engine,  while  the  box  cars,  loaded 
with  freight,  were  thrown  upon  the  engine  and 
around  the  wreck  in  grtsat  disorder.  After  a 
time  these  took  fire,  and  added  horror  to  the 
scene.  The  savages  now  swarmed  around  the 
train  and  whooped  and  yelled  in  great  glee. 
When  the  shock  first  came,  however,  the  con- 
ductor ran  ahead  on  the  north  side  of  the  track 
to  the  engine,  and  there  saw  Bowers  and  Hender- 
shot in  the  position  we  have  described  them. 
He  told  them  he  must  leave  them  and  flag  the 
second  section  of  the  train  following  after,  or  it, 
too,  would  be  wrecked.  He  then  ran  back,  sig- 
naled this  train,  and  with  it  returned  to  Plum 
Creek.  Arriving  there  in  the  middle  of  the 
night,  in  vain  did  he  try  to  get  a  force  of  men  to 
proceed  at  once  to  the  scci^e  of  the  disaster.  No 
one  would  go.  In  the  morning,  however,  they 
rallied,  armed  themselves  and  went  out  to  the 
wreck.  By  this  time  it  was  near  ten  o'clock.  The 
burning  box  cars  had  fallen  around  the  brave 
engineer,  and  while  the  fiery  brands  had  un- 
doubtedly added  to  his  agony,  they  had  also 
ended  his  earthly  existence.  His  blackened  and 
charred  remains  only  told  of  his  suffering.  The 
rescuing  party  found  the  train  still  burning — the 
Indians  had  obtained  all  the  plunder  they  could 
carry,  and  left  in  the  early  morning.  In  the  first 
gray  dawn  of  the  morning  they  manlfosted  their 
delight  over  the  burning  train  in  every  possible 
way,  «.nd  their  savage  glee  know  no  Dounds. 
From  the  cars  not  then  burned  they  rolled  out 
boxes  and  bales  of  merchandise,  from  which  they 
took  bright-colored  flannels,  calicos,  and  other 
fancy  goods.  Bolts  of  these  goods  they  would 
loosen,  and  with  one  end  tied  to  their  ponies'  tails 
or  the  horn  of  their  saddles,  they  would  mount 
and  start  at  full  gallop  up  and  down  the  prairie 
just  to  see  the  bright  colors  streaming  in  the 
wind  behind  them.  But  the  end  of  this  affair 
was  not  yet.  The  avenging  hand  of  justice  was 
on  the  track  of  these  blood-thirsty  villains,  who, 
for  some  inscrutable  reason,  are  permitted  to 
wear  the  human  form.  In  the  spring  of  that 
year,  by  order  of  General  Augur,  then  in  com- 
mand of  the  military  department  of  the  Platte, 
Major  Frank  North,  of  Columbus,  Neb.,  who 
had  had  no  little  experience  in  the  business,  was 
authorized  to  raise  a  battalion  of  two  hundred 
Pawnee  Indians,  who  were  peaceable  and  friendly 


M 


FMS  I^SiClFiC  TOEmiST. 


%  IB 


'■  £  m 


towards  the  whites,  and  whose  reservation  is 
near  Cohinibus,  for  scouting  dut^r.  It  was  the 
old  experiiilent  of  fighting  the  devil  with  fire  to 
be  tried  over  again.  These  scouts  were  to  fight 
the  vanous  hostile  bands  of  the  Sioux,  Arrapa- 
hoes,  aitd  Cheyennes,  and  assist  in  guarding  the 
railroad,  and  the  railroad  buildei's.  At  the  time 
this  train  was  attacked,  these  scouts  were  scat- 
tered in  small  detachments  along  the  line  of  the 
road  between  Sidney  and  the  Laramie  IMains. 
General  Augur  was  immediately  notified  of  it, 
and  he  telegraphed  Major  North  to  take  the 
nearest  company  of  his  scouts  and  repair  as  soon 
as  |)ossible  to  the  scene  of  the  disaster.  At  that 
time,  Major  North  was  about  fourteen  miles  west 
of  Sidney,  at  the  end  of  the  track,  and  his  nearest 
company  was  some  twelve  miles  further  on. 
Mounting  his  horse,  he  rode  to  their  camp  in 
about  fifty  miimtes,  got  his  men  together,  and 
leaving  orders  for  the  wagons  to  follow,  returned, 
arriving  at  the  end  of  the  track  at  about  four 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  By  the  time  these  men 
and  horses  were  loaded  on  the  cars,  the  wagons 
had  arrived,  and  by  five  o'clock  the  train  pulled 
out.  Arriving  at  Julesburg,  they  were  attaclied 
to  a  passenger  train,  and  by  midnight,  or  within 
twenty-four  hours  after  the  disaster  took  place, 
he  arrived  at  the  scene.  Meanwhile  other  white 
troops,  stationed  near  by,  had  arrived.  In  the 
morning  he  wa-s  ordered  by  General  Augur  to 
follow  the  trail  and  ascertain  whether  the  at- 
tack had  been  made  by  northern  or  southern  In- 
dians. With  ten  men  he  started  on  the  scout 
The  sharp-sighted  Pawnees  eoon  struck  the  trail. 
They  found  where  the  hostiift  ;  ?nd  had  crossed 
the  river,  and  where  they  h,iii  rWandoned  some 
of  their  plunder.  They  foliuwtd  the  trail  all 
that  day,  and  found  that  it  '>ore  south  to  the 
Republican  Valley.  Froiri  tiriis  fact,  and  other 
indications  that  only  Indians  would  notice,  he 
ascei^ained  that  the  attacking  band  were- south- 
ern Cheyennes.  Returning  from  this  scout,  after 
about  thirty-five  miles'  travel,  he  reported  to  the 
commanding  officer  at  Omaha,  and  received 
orders  to  remain  in  the  vicinity,  and  thoroughly 
scout  the  country,  the  belief  being  generally  en- 
tertained among  the  officers  that,  if  not  followed, 
the  Indiana  would  soon  return  on  another  raid. 
Subsequent  events  proved  this  belief  to  be  true, 
and  they  had  not  long  to  wait.  In  about  ten 
days,  their  camp  being  at  Plum  Creek,  one  of 
the  scouts  came  running  into  camp  from  the 
bluffs  south  of  Plum  Creek,  and  reported  that 
the  Indians  were  coming.  He  had  discovered 
them  in  the  distance,  making  their  way  in  the 
direction  of  the  old  overland  stage  station,  which 
they  soon  after  reached.  Arriving  here,  they 
unsaddled  their  horses  and  turned  them  loose  in 
an  old  sod  corral  to  feed  and  rest.  They  then 
began  preparations  to  remain  all  night.  The 
scouts,  nowever,  proposed  to  find  out  who  and 
what  they  were  before  the  evening  approached. 


Major  North  first  determined  to  go  with  th« 
company  himst^if,  but  at  the  urgent  solicitation 
of  Capt.  .lames  Murie,  finally  gave  him  charge 
of  the  f'xpedition.  There  were  in  the  conmiand, 
two  white  commissioned  officers — Lieut.  Isaac 
Davis,  besides  the  Captain  —  two  white  ser- 
geants, and  forty-eight  Pawnees.  The  company 
inarched  from  their  camp  straight  south  to  the 
Platte  Kiver,  which  they  crossed;  then  turning 
to  tlu!  left  followed  down  its  bank  under  tho 
bushes  to  within  i,bout  a  mile  and  a  half  of  tho 
creek.  Here  they  were  discovered  by  the  Chey. 
ennes.  Then  there  was  mounting  in  hot  haste-« 
the  Cheyennes  at  once  preparing  for  the  fray. 
There  were  one  hundred  and  fifty  warriors  to  b»» 
pitted  against  this  small  band  of  fifty-two,  all 
told.  liut  the  Cheyennes,  up  to  this  time,  sujv 
posed  they  were  to  fight  white  soldiers,  and  wei-e 
very  confident  of  victory.  Forming  in  regular 
line,  on  they  rushed  to  the  conflict.  Captain 
Murie's  command,  as  soon  as  they  found  they 
were  discovered,  left  the  bushes  on  the  rivei 
bank  and  went  up  into  the  road,  where  they 
formed  in  line  of  battle  and  were  ordered  to 
charge.  As  the  order  was  given,  the  Pawnees 
set  up  their  war-whoop,  slapped  their  breasta 
with  their  hands  and  shouted  "  Pawnees."  The 
opposing  lin(!s  met  on  the  banks  of  the  creek, 
through  which  the  scouts  charged  with  all  their 
speed.  The  Cheyennes  immediately  broke  and 
fled  in  great  confusion,  every  man  for  himseli 
Then  followed  the  chase,  the  killing  and  the 
scalping.  The  Indians  took  their  old  trail  for 
the  Republican  Valley,  and  put  their  horses  tc 
their  utmost  speed  to  escape  the  deadly  fire  v>i 
the  Pawnees.  Night  finally  ended  the  chase,  anrt 
when  the  spoils  were  gathered,  it  was  found  thai 
fifteen  Cheyenne  warriors  had  been  made  to  b!U 
the  dust,  and  their  scalps  had  been  taken  as  tro 
phies  of  victory.  Two  prisoners  were  also  taken 
one  a  boy  of  about  si.rteen  years  and  the  other  » 
squaw.  The  lK)y  was  a  nephew  of  Turkey  Leg^ 
the  chief.  Thirty-five  horses  and  mules  wex-o 
also  taken,  while  not  a  man  of  the  scouts  waa 
hurt.  After  ti.e  chase  had  ceased,,  a  rain-storjQ 
set  in,  and  tired  with  their  day's  work,  with  th«» 
trophies  of  their  victory,  they  returned  to  camp. 
It  was  about  midnight  when  they  arrived.  Ma 
jor  North  and  a  company  of  infantry,  undei 
command  of  Capt  John  A.  Miller,  had  re. 
mained  in  camp  guarding  government  and  com 

Eany  property,  and  knowing  that  a  battle  ha<i 
een  fought,  were  intensely  anxious  to  learn  th« 
result  When  the  Pawnees  came  near,  it  was 
with  shouts  and  whoops  and  songs  of  victory 
They  exhibited  their  scalps  and  paraded  their 
prisoners  with  great  joy,  and  spent  the  whoU 
night  in  scalp-dances  and  wild  revelry.  Thitt 
victory  put  an  end  to  attacks  on  railroad  trains 
by  the  Cheyennes.  The  boy  and  squaw  were 
kept  in  the  camp  of  the  Pawnees  until  late  in 
the  season,  when  a  big  council  was  held  with  the 


'i 


> 


\ 


i 


' 


1 


FMs  PiiCiriG  roimisr. 


:j7 


Brule  Sioux,  Spotted  Tuil's  band,  at  Nortli 
Platte,  to  inakf  new  treaty.  Iltuvring  of  tlus 
council,  Turktiy  i^eg,  chii'f  of  the  Cheyennes, 
sent  in  a  runne  fl  offered  to  deliver  up  six 
white  ca[)tive8  held  in  his  band  for  the  return 
of  the  l)oy  and  the  squaw.  After  the  necessary 
preliminaries  luwJ  been  effected,  the  runner  was 
told  to  bring  the  white  captives,  that  the  ex- 
change might  be  made.  The  boy  hvUl  by  the 
scouts  was  understood  to  be  of  royal  lineage,  and 
was  expt^cted  to  succeed  Turkey  Leg  in  the  ciru'f- 
taincy  A  the  tribe.  After  the  exchange  bad 
taken  place,  the  old  chief  would  scarcely  allow 
the  boy  to  leave  his  sight — such  was  his  attach- 
ment to  him,  and  manifested  his  delight  in  every 
possible  way  over  his  recovery.  The  white  caj»- 
tives  were  two  sisters  by  the  name  of  Thompson, 
who  lived  south  of  the  Platte  River,  nearly  op^x)- 
site  Grand  Island,  and  their  twin  brothers ;  a 
Norwegian  girl  taken  on  the  Little  Hlue  River, 
and  a  white  child  born  t<  one  of  these  women 
while  in  captivity.  They  were  restored  to  their 
friends  as  soon  as  |iossible. 

Tfie  Nejct  Attack. — The  Indians  were  not 
willing  to  have  the  iron  rails  that  should  bind 
the  snores  of  the  continent  together  laid  in 
peace,  and  made  strenuous  and  persistent  efforts 
to  p'-event  it.  On  the  IfJth  of  April,  liS(t8,  a  "cut 
oft"  band  of  Sioux,  under  a  scalawag  chief, 
named  Two  Strikes,  attacked  and  killed  five 
section-men  near  Kim  Creek  Station,  taking  their 
scalps,  and  ran  off  a  few  head  of  stock.  They 
were  never  pursued.  On  the  same  day,  and  evi- 
dently according  to  a  pre-arranged  plan,  a  part  of 
the  same  band  attacked  the  jKist  at  Sidney,  They 
came  up  on  tlie  bluffs  north  of  the  town  and 
fired  inti)  it.  Rut  no  one  was  injured  from  their 
shooting  at  that  time.  Two  conductors,  however, 
named  Tom  Cahoon  and  AV'illiam  Edmunson, 
had  gone  down  the  Lodge  Pole  Creek,  a  little  way 
to  lish.  They  were  unobserved  by  the  Indians 
when  the  firing  took  place.  Hearing  the  re- 
jwrta  they  clinir)ed  up  the  bank  to  8;.<j  wluat 
wiis  going  on,  and  being  seen  by  the  Indians, 
they  at  once  made  au  effort  to  cut  them 
off,  though  tlu^y  were  only  a  mile  or  so  from 
the  post.  The  savages  charged  down  upon 
them,  and  shot  Cahoon,  who  fell  forward  on 
the  ground.  The  Indians  immediately  scalped 
him  and  left  him  for  dead.  Mr',  pidmunson 
van  towards  the  post  as  fast  as  he  could, 
and  drjiwing  a  small  Derringer  pistol,  fired 
at  his  pursuers.  Thinking  he  had  a  revolver 
and  would  be  likely  to  shoot  again  if  they  came 
too  close,  they  did  not  ventu  e  np  as  they  had 
done,  but  allowed  him  to  escape.  He  got  away 
with  some  eight  or  nine  arrow  and  bullet  wounds 
together  and  carrying  four  arrows  sticking  in  his 
body.  He  was  taken  to  the  hospital,  and  rapidly 
recovered  from  his  wounds.  After  the  Indians 
had  Kone.  f  be  citizens  went  after  the  body  of  Mr. 
Gaboon,   whom  they  supposed  dead,  but  to  their 


surprise  he  was  still  alive.  They  biought  him 
into  the  post,  where  he  recovered,  ai.d  if.  now 
running  on  the  road. 

Attavk  at  i}f/alatla.—]n  Septeml>ei  of  the 
same  year,  the  same  liand  of  Sioux  altempi^d  to 
destroy  a  train  between  Alkali  and  OgaLlla. 
They  fixed  the  rails  the  same  as  at  Plum  Creek. 
As  the  train  came  up  the  rails  penetrated  the 
cylinders  on  each  side  of  the  engine,  as  it  was  a 
straight  track  there ;  the  enijin*!  going  ovttr  into 
th(;  ditch,  with  tlu;  cars  ]>iliiig  up  on  top  of  it. 
Th(!  engineer  and  one  of  the  brakemen  who  was 
on  the  <!ngiM(f  at  the  time,  were  thrown  through 
the  window  of  the  cab,  and  were  but  little  hurt. 
The  fireman  was  fastened  by  the  tender  against 
the  end  of  the  boiler,  and  after  the  train  had 
stopped,  there  being  no  draft,  the  fianies  of  the 
fire  came  out  of  the  door  to  tlic  fire-box  upon 
him,  and  the  poor  fellow  wiis  literuily  roasted 
alive.  lie  was  released  after  six  hours  in  this 
terrible  jx)sition,  during  which  he  begged  the 
atteiulants  to  kill  him,  but  lived  only  a  few 
mometits  after  his  release.  All  the  trains  at  this 
time  carried  arms,  and  the  conductor,  with  two 
or  three  passengers,  among  whom  was  Father 
Ryan,  a  Catholic  priest  of  Columbus.  Nebraska, 
seized  the  arms  and  defended  the  train — the 
Indians  meanwhile  skulking  among  the  bluffs 
near  the  track,  and  occasionally  firing  a  shot 
Word  was  sent  to  North  Platte,  anil  an  engine 
and  men  came  up,  who  cleared  the  wreck.  Mean- 
while word  was  sent  to  Major  North,  then  at 
Willow  Island,  to  take  one  company  of  his  scouts 
and  follow  the  Indians.  He  came  to  Alkali  and 
reix)rted  to  Colonel  Mizner,  who  was  marching 
from  North  Platte  with  two  companies  of  cavalry, 
all  of  whom  started  in  pursuit.  They  went  over 
to  the  North  Platte  River,  crossed  that  stream 
and  entered  the  sand-hills,  where  the  scouts  over- 
took and  killed  two  of  the  Indians;  the  whole 
jiarty  going  al)out  thirty-five  miles  to  a  little 
hike,  where  the  main  body  of  Indians  had  just 
left  and  camped,  findin/;  the  smouldcsring  em- 
bers of  the  Indian  fires  still  alive.  That  night 
some  of  the  white  soldiers  let  their  camp  fires 
get  away  into  the  prairie,  and  an  immen.se  prairie 
fire  was  the  result.  This,  of  course,  alarmed  the 
Indians,  and  further  jnirsuit  was  abandoned, 
much  to  the  disgust  of  the  scouts.  Colonel 
Mizner  also  claimed  that  his  rations  were  run- 
ning short,  bat  from  all  the  facts  we  can  learn, 
he  lacked  the  disposition  to  pursue  and  capture 
those  Indians.  At  le.ast,  this  is  a  charitable  con- 
struction to  put  umn  his  acts. 

In  October  of  the  same  year  (1868),  the  same 
band  of  Indians  attacked  the  section-men  near 
Potter  Station,  drove  them  in  and  run  off  about 
tweity  head  of  horses  and  mules.  Major  North 
and  his  scouts  were  immediately  sent  in  pursuit. 
Leaving  camp  at  Willow  Island,  the  command 
was  soon  on  the  ground.  It  was  evidently  a 
small  raiding  party,  and  Major  North  sent  a 


38* 


M.i 


Lieutenant  and  fifteen  of  his .  men  after  them. 
They  struck  their  trail,  followed  them  to  tlie  North 
Platte  lliver,  which  they  o'ossed,  followed  and 
overhauled  them  in  the  sand-hills,  killing  two, 
recar>turing  a  part  of  the  stolen  iiorses,  and  re- 
turned without  loss.  Th*^  Indians  have  made 
some  efforts  to  ditch  a  few  trains  since  that  year, 
htit  have  effected  no  serious  damage.  Their 
efforts  of  late  have  mostly  been  confined  to  stock 
stealing,  and  they  never  seem  sc  happy  as  when 
they  have  succeeded  in  running  off  a  large  num- 
ber of  horses  and  mules.  When  the  road  was 
first  built  it  was  their  habit  to  cross  it,  going 
south  and  north,  several  times  in  each  year.  They 
roamed  with  the  buffaloes  over  the  plains  of 
Nebraska,  Colorado,  Wyoming  and  K?iisas.  The 
effort  of  the  government  of  late  has  been  to 
confine  them  on  their  reservations,  and  the  rapid 
disappearance  of  the  buffaloes  from  the  regions 
named  have  given  them  no  excuse  for  hunting  in 
the  country  now  crossed  by  railroads  and  filling 
up  with  settlers. 

Coyote — is  the  next  station,  simply  a  side 
track  with  a  section-house  near  by.  lint  little 
timber  is  visib'e  ^c  ohis  place,  though  the  bottom 
lands  begin  to  widen,  giving  an  extended  view. 
This  is  not  a  timber  country,  and  wherever  it  is 
found,  the  traveler  will  please  bear  in  mind  that 
it  is  the  exception  am?  not  the  rule.  1  iie  islands 
in  the  river  doubtless  had  some  timber,  but  the 
most  of  it  hivs  long  since  disappeared.  Occasion- 
ally you  nay  see  a  few  scattering  trees  which 
iia/e  been  left  by  the  nrairie  ftrts,  and  wliicii 
.stand  in  inaccessible  ]>laces.  This  side  track  is 
'J3l'.i  milrts  from  Omaha,  and  2,440  feet  above 
ihe  sea.    The  next  station  is 

Cozad — so  namod  after  a  gentleman  from 
Cincinnati,  Ohio,  who  purchased  about  40,U()i) 
acres  of  land  herefrom  tiie  railioad  company; 
laid  out  the  town;  built  quite  a  number  of 
houses ;  induced  people  to  settle  here ;  has  resold 
a  good  deal  of  his  land,  but  still  has  about  15,000 
acres  in  the  immediate  vicinity.  Along  the  rail- 
road track,  west  of  Plum  Creek,  the  traveler  will 
notice  that  the  buffalo  grass  has  been  rooted  out 
by  what  is  called  prairie  or  blue-joint  grass.  This 
last  is  an  animal  grass  and  is  killed  by  frost, 
after  which  it  resembles  dark  colored  brick — a 
reddish  brown  appeanmcc.  It  has  but  little  nutri- 
ment after  the  frost  comes,  but  if  cut  and  cured 
in  July  or  August,  makes  an  excellent  (luality  of 
hay.  The  buffalo  grass  is  just  over  the  divide  a 
little  way,  but  is  giving  way  to  that  just  named. 
Some  men  of  capital  near  Cozad,  are  interest- 
ing themselves  in  sheep  raising,  and  frequently 
from  this  place  west  you  will  see  large  herds  of 
cattle.  Cozad  is  24.').1  rniles  from.  Omaha,  with 
an  elevation  of  2,180  feet.  It  has  two  or  three 
stores, school-hou.se,  hotel,  several  hvige  dwellings, 
and  with  favorable  sea-sons  for  growing  crops  in 
the  future,  will  become  quite  a  t^iwn.  The  Platte 
Valley  at  this  point  is  i»bout  twenty  mileS  wide. 


Willow  Islantl — is  the  next  station;  so 
nr'med  iiom  the  large  number  of  willow  bushes 
on  the  island  in  the  river  near  by.  It  is  250.1  miles 
from  the  Missouri,  and  has  an  elevation  of  2,511 
feet.  The  prairie  or  blue-joint  grass  still  con- 
tinues along  the  side  of  the  track,  and  the  bluffs  on 
the  south  side  of  the  river  seem  more  abrupt.  They 
are  full  of  raviues  or  "  draws,"  and  these  soithv- 
times  have  timber  in  them.  At  this  station  a  largtj 
quantity  of  cedar  piles  and  telegraph  poles  are 
delivered.  They  are  hauled  some  forty  miles 
from  the  canons  in  the  South  Loup  Valley. 
There  is  a  store  at  this  station  and  a  corral  near 
by  where  stock  is  kept;  with  a  few  old  log  and 
mud  buildings,  rapidly  iioing  to  d<'cay  in  the 
vicinity.  The  glory  of  this  place,  if  it  ever  had 
any,  has  long  since  departed,  but  it  may,  never- 
theless, yet  become  the  pride  of  stock-men,  who 
shall  count  their  lowing  herds  by  the  thousand. 

Grand  Diike  Alexis'  First  Buffalo  Hunt, 

During  the  visit  of  the  Grand  Duke  Alexis  of 
Russia,  to  the  United  States,  the  imperial  party 
were  escorted  to  the  plains,  and  enjoyed  the  excitti- 
ment  of  a  buffalo  hunt,  over  the  western  prairieji. 
Connected  wi'h  tiie  chase  were  some  incidercs  of 
rare  curiosity  and  pleasin-e.  As  the  only  repr«v 
sentativeof  the  great  Kussian  nation,  he  has  seen 
the  novelty  of  military  life  on  the  frontier;  siiak- 
en  hands  with  partially  tamed  Indian  "arriors, 
and  smoked  the  jiijx;  of  peace  in  Lncient  style. 
Among  tilt;  company  were  Buffalo  Bill,  a  noblo 
son  of  the  wild  West,  and  Generals  Sheridan 
and  Custer.  The  ri'd  men  appeared  in  a  grand 
;)ow-wow  and  war-danee,  and  indulged  in  arrow 
practice  for  his  particular  benefit. 

The  ]>arty  started  from  camp  Alexis,  Willow 
Creek,  Nebraska,  in  January,  1872.  For  the  hnnt 
the  Duke's  dress  consisted  of  jacket  avA  trowsers 
of  heavy  gray  cloth,  trimmed  with  green,  tMe 
buttons  bearing  the  Imperial  Ilu?;ian  coat-of- 
arms;  he  wore  his  boots  outside  his  trowsers,  1  lis 
cap  was  an  Australian  turban,  with  cloth  top; 
he  carried  a  Russian  hunting  knife,  and  an 
American  revolver  recently  presented  to  him, 
and  l)earing  the  coat-of-arms  of  the  United  Stateu 
and  of  Ru-ssia  on  the  handle. 

General  Custer  appeared  in  his  well-knovai 
frontier  buckskin  hunting  ccstume,  and  if,  iu- 
steul  of  the  comical  sealskin  cap  he  wore,  he  had 
only  had  feathers  fastened  in  his  flowing  hair,  be 
would  have  passed  at  a  distance  for  a  great  In- 
dian chief. 

Buffiilo  Bill,  the  famous  scout,  was  dressed  in 
a  buck  .kin  suit  trimmc'  with  fur,  and  wore  u 
black  slouch  hat,  hi.i  lotiu  hair  hanging  in  ring- 
lets down  his  shoulders. 

Game  was  sighted  in  a  long  canon  with  broken 
sides  and  high  hills  on  either  side,  forming  a 
magnificent  arena. 

The  (rrand  Duke  and  Custer  started  off,  p  ,u 
as  they  went  Custer  pulled  out  his  revolver,  and 


^^ 


3V» 


lext    staHou ;    so 
of  willow  bubhes 

it  is  250.1  miles 
ilevatiou  of  2,511 

grass  still  coii- 
,  and  the  bluffs  on 
ore  abrupt.  1'hey 
and  these  sonuV 
lis  station  a  largf  j 
I'graph  poles  are 
onie  forty  miles 
Loup  Valley, 
iid  a  corral  near 
few  old  log  and 
to  decay  in  the 
ce,  if  it  ever  had 
lit  it  may,  never- 
i  stock-men,  whd 
by  the  thousand. 


LI 


Buffalo  Hunt, 

Duke  Alexis  of 
R  imperial  part(r 
ijoyed  the  excitts- 

>\  eslern  prairi&'i. 
onie  incidents  of 
1  the  only  repr»v 
ition,  he  has  seen 
0  frontier ;  oiiak- 
Indian  "arriors, 
in  j-ncient  style, 
alo  Bill,  a  noblt> 
nerals  Sheridan 
^ared  in  a  grand 
ilulged  \\\  arrow 
t. 

Alexis,  Willow 
2.  For  the  hnnt 
liel  u::d  trowsers 
with  green,  the 
Hu8;ian  coat-of- 
his  trowsers,  Ids 
with  cloth  top; 
■  knife,  and  an 
isented  to  him, 
le  United  Statfcj 

his  well-knov/n 
me,  and  if,  in- 
he  wore,  he  had 
flowing  hair,  he 
for  a  great  Iii- 

was  dressed  in 
ur,  and  wore  a 
iinging  in  ring- 
on  with  broken 
ide,  forming  a 

tarted  off,  p  ,ii 
s  revolver,  and 


said,  "  Are  you  ready,  Duke  ?  "  Alexis  drew  off 
his  rjlove,  grasped  his  pistol,  and  with  a  wave  of 
his  land  replied,  "  All  ready  now.  General."  Buf- 
falo Bill  had  been  selected  to  show  the  Grand 
I)uk>  how  the  buffaloes  would  stand  at  bay  when 
suddenly  attacked.  A  co^;  was  singled  out  to 
show  him  how  fleet  of  foot  the  fern  lies  are,  and 
tlie  speed  and  skill  essential  to  overtake  and  kill 
tliem.  As  soon  as  she  espied  them  she  started 
off  at  full  speed,  the  Duke  and  Custer  after  her. 
Finding  herself  hard  pressed,  she  ran  up  a  steep 
declivity  on  the  right  side  of  the  canon,  and  gain- 
ing a  footing  on  the  siope,  kept  along  the  narrow 
ledge,  while  the  Duke  and  Ciister  followed  in  a 
line  along  the  bottom  of  the  canon.  1'he  chase 
was  most  exciting,  and  the  Grand  Duke,  exhib- 
iting an  enthusiasm  and  daring  which  the  most 


elevation  of  2,637  feet,  and  268.4  miles  from  the 
eastern  tenninus  of  the  road.  The  island  in  the 
river,  from  which  the  station  is  named,  is  quite 
large,  and  formerly  had  considerable  timber  for 
this  country.    An  occasdoual  tree  may  yet  be  seen. 

Maxtvell  is  277.5  miles  from  Omaha,  and 
2,695  feet  above  the  sea 

Fort  McPherson  is  lo>!ated  aoutli  of  the 
Platte  River,  on  a  militdi-y  reservation,  and 
nearly  opposite  the  station.  There  is  a  wagon 
bridge  across  the  river  connecting  the  two  places. 
'I'he  fort  is  about  seven  miies  from  the  station, 
and  is  located  near  some  springs  formerly  called 
"Cotton-wood  Springs."  It  bears  the  name  of 
the  gallant  general  who  fell  before  Atlanta,  m 
1864,  in  the  war  for  the  preservation  of  tho 
Union.     But  few  soldiers  are  now  kept  at  this 


ORAIO)  DUKE  AT.EXI8  RILLINO  HT8  FIRST  BrFi'ALO. 


wxperienced  western  liunter  could  not  have  sur- 
passed, pressed  his  game  until  she  turned  upon 
him.  Describing  a  s°miH-ircl'  with  his  horse, 
he  dashed  to  the  other  side  of  her,  and  taking 
deliberate  aim,  discharged  the  contents  of  his 
revolver  into  h.^r  fore  shoulder,  as  quick  as  a 
flash  of  lightning.  The  buffalo  tVll  dead  u{Kni 
the  instant.  Thus,  a«  he  telegraphed  to  his  fa- 
ther, the  Czar  of  Russia,  lie  killed  the  first  wild 
horned  monster  that  had  met  his  eye  in  America. 
The  aport  continued  for  twi  days,  and  ended 
with  a  series  of  Indian  fe.stivitii\s. 

Woi'ren — is  a  side  track  260.4  miles  from 
Omaha,  and  2,570  feet  above  the  sea  A  section- 
house  stands  near  by.  The  valley  heie  narrows, 
Jind  the  bluffs  on  Iwth  sides  come  near  the  river. 

Brady  Inlaml — is  the  next  station,  with  an 


fort,  though  .it  the  time  the  war  was  ir  progress, 
and  afterwards  during  the  building  of  the  road, 
and  in  the  years  of  Indian  conflict  that  raged  on 
the  frontier,  it  was  a  post  of  considerable  import- 
ance. Immense  quantities  of  hay  are  annually 
cut  near  this  place,  with  which  government  and 
private  contracts  are  filled.  A  part  of  the  Sev- 
enth Iowa  Cavalry,  under  Major  Oiirien,  camped 
on  the  site  of  the  fort  in  1866,  and  afterwards 
troops  from  the  regular  army  were  stationed 
here. 

fiannetf — named  after  J.  W.  Gannett,  Esq., 
of  Omaha  and  present  auditor  of  the  Union  Pacific 
Railroad — is  a  side  track  with  adjacent  section- 
house  ;  is  285.2  miles  from  Omana,  and  2,752 
feet  above  the  sea.  All  the  stations  for  from  fifty 
to  a  huiidrei}  miles  east  of  this,  are  located  in  an 


fi 


40 


Mlh 


ini 


m  ■ 


m\'^ 


excellent  grazing  country,  and  cattle  and  sheep 
are  oomir.g  in  Lo  occupy  it. 

Five  miles  from  Gannett,  the  railroad  crosses 
the  North  Platte  River  on  a  pile  bridge.  There 
is  a  side  track  and  two  section-houses  just  east 
of  th«  river,  the  side  track  for  hay  cars,  and  one 
of  the  section-houses  near  the  bridge  for  the 
watchman,  who  walks  its  entire  length  after  the 
passage  of  every  train.  The  bridge  is  planked 
by  the  railroad  company,  and  rented  by  Lincoln 
County,  so  that  wiigons,  teams  and  stock  have 
free  passage.  After  leaving  Cozad,  the  number 
of  settlers'  cabins  and  houses  diminishes  till  you 
come  to  the  North  I'lattc  Valley.  South  of  the 
river  between  Fort  McPherson  and  North  Platte, 
there  are  quite  a  number  of  homesteaders,  who 
have  farmed  it  for  a  few  years,  with  indif- 
ferent success,  having  to  contend  with  drought 
and  grasshoppers.  The  soil  has  been  proven  to 
be  prolific,  but  some  plan  of  irrigation  will  have 
to  be  adopted,  before  agriculture  can  be  made  a 
paying  investment.  In  choice  locations,  how- 
ever, such  as  pieces  of  low  bottom  land  near  the 
river,  crops  of  potatoes  and  "  garden  truck  "  have 
been  successfully  raised  for  several  years. 

We  have  now  entered  upon  the  great  stock- 
growing  region  of  the  continent,  where  cattle  and 
horses  can  be  grown  and  kept  the  year  round 
without  hay,  and  where  the  buffalo  grass,  except- 
ing along  the  streams,  affords  the  rich  nutriment 
that  produces  fat,  and  renders  cattle  ready  for 
market  without  grain. 

The  North  Platte  River  will  be  crossed  again 
at  Fort  Steele.  It  has  its  source  in  northern 
Colorado,  west  of  the  Medicine  Bow  Mountains. 
The  Laramie  River,  which  you  cross  just  beyond 
Laramie  City,  and  the  Sweetwator.  which  rises 
in  the  Wind  River  Mountains  north  of  Point  of 
Rocks,  and  runs  through  the  great  South  Pass, 
are  two  of  its  principal  tributaries.  It  drains  an 
immense  region  of  country,  and  is  f;>d  by  inini- 
merable  streams  and  springs  from  the  Black  Hil!s 
of  Wyoming,  the  Wind  River  Mountains,  the 
Medicine  Bow  Mountains,  the  Sweetwater  Moun- 
tains, the  Big  Horn  Alountains,  Rattlesnake  Hills 
and  other  elevations.  The  traveler  must  not  be 
confused  by  the  term  «  Black  Hills."  The  Black 
Hills  of  Wyoming  are  those  which  you  cross  be- 
tween Cheyenne  and  Laramie  City,  the  summit 
of  which  you  reach  at  Sherman.  ^Fhese  arc  not 
the  Black  Hills  of  wliicli  so  much  has  been  ssiid 
of  late,  in  connection  with  tln^  discovery  of  gold 
and  the  Sioux  Indians.  They  are  called  the 
Black  Hills  of  Dakota,  and  the  nearest  poiit  to 
them  on  the  railroad  is  Sidney.  From  the  im- 
mense amount  of  water  '.vhich  runs  into  the 
North  Platte  River,  it  is  a  mystery  what  becomes 
of  it  all,  as  the  river  is  shallow  and  shiggish 
where  it  is  crossed  near  its  mouth.  Its  treach- 
erous V)ottom  of  ever  varying  and  shifting 
quicksands,  like  that  of  the  South  Platte,  does 
not  make  it  a  good  fording  stream  for  wagons, 


though  the  water,  except  in  certain  seasons  of 
of  the  year,  is  the  smallest  obstacle.  Up  to  the 
spring  of  1875,  this  river  was  the  southern  bound- 
ary of  what  the  Sioux  Indians  claimed  as  their 
reservation,  and  it  was  only  by  the  payment  of  a 
special  appropriation  of  iJ"jr),OOU,  that  they  re- 
linquished the  right  to  hunt  as  far  south  as 
this  river.  The  principal  military  yosts  on  the 
stream,  are  Forts  Fetternum,  usually  occupied  by 
but  few  troops,  and  Laramie.  The  latter  is  at 
present  the  principal  militaiy  depot  for  both 
troops  and  supplies  off  the  line  of  the  railroad, 
in  this  part  of  the  West.  It  is  90  mjles  from 
Cheyenne,  its  near  'St  v;iilrf>ad  station,  and  the 
jxjint  from  wh  ^e  'K-  uU  the  frontier  expe- 
ditions into  n<  :•  .'  ■  .  •  ".ning,  western  Dakota, 
and  the  Big  Ho n  and  I'owder  River  countries, 
start.  The  Laramie  River  and  the  North  Platte 
form  a  jimction  near  the  fort. 

The  South  Platte,  which  the  railroad  still  fol- 
lows for  about  eighty-five  miles,  is  similar  to  the 
North  Platte,  so  far  as  exteinal  observations 
go.  It  rises  in  the  nioiintains  south  and  west  of 
Denver,  receives  a  large  number  of  tributaries; 
the  chief  of  which  is  tlie  Cache  La  Poudre,  which 
forms  a  junction  with  it  at  Greeley,  and  then 
pursues  a  due  east  course  to  the  Missouri  River. 
The  junction  with  the  North  Platte  is  formed  a 
few  miles  below  the  biidge  just  spoken  of.  On 
neitlier  of  these  streams,  nor  on  any  of  their 
tributaries  can  agricultural  pursuits  be  carried 
on  without  irrigation,  and  not  alv-;ys  with  success 
with  irrigation.     The  hund  of  ih-'.  Ahnlghty  has 


ihis   vast 

u si v!'e  ground 

..'    ..ther  pur- 

.aii;,t'd  over 

i;'    or  ages 

..\  grows  in 

a  lich   suste- 


placed  its  ineffaceable  nu.'i*  y]-i>n 

region  of  country — that  it  '    L  -  j' 

and  adapted,  so  far  as  is  km  v\,,    . 

jwse.     Millions  of    buffaloes  ha. 

these  bleak  and  desolate-lool    ig  'i 

past,  and  from  the  short  gn  •  <  \n! 

abundance  thereon,  have  derived 

nance.     They  have  gone  or  are  fast  going,  and  tlie 

necessities  ot  the  civilization  which  follows,  calls 

for  beef  and  mutton.     These  plains  ivust  become 

the  great  beef-producing  region  of  the  continent. 

They  are  the  Almiglity's  jmstur"  .  'oJiids,  and  if 

there  are  not  a  thousand  cattle  i.,.  •■•■)  i  hill,  there 

will  surely  be  "  cattle   ufv  ■■  a  th(..-sand  hills." 

The  numerous   tributarii't 

are  from  te!i  io  fifteen  mil*;.-* 

ing  prairies   between- -affn' 

water  wi'li  adjacent  j.asture.  ;ii!  .  Ihis  pastin'e 

the  liome  of  t!  e  richest  natural  grasses. 

B;  fo<\,  you  reach  the  Nortli  Platte  River,  you 
M'iii  see  j'ondusive  evidence  of  the  adaptability 
of  thes  ?  .1  •  us  to  stock-raising,  and  from  this 
time  oi'  U)  wiiere  t  le  river  is  again  crossed,  you 
will  set;  numerous  herds  of  callle  and  flocks  of 
sheep.  Tlie  snows  of  winter  in  these  elevated 
regions  are  dry,  and  not  frequent.  Driven  by 
fierce  winds,  they  will  fill  the  hollows  and  small 
ravines,  while  the  hills  are  always  left  bare,  .so 
that  catMe  and  sheep  can  always  obtain  access  to 


(hese   two   rivers 

(.• '   \\jth  high  roll-. 

./oiii'dance  oi 

s 


41 


ertaiu  seasons  of 
itacle.     Up  to  the 
e  southern  bound- 
claimed  as  their 
the  payment  of  a 
to,  that  they   re- 
as  far  south   as 
tary  { osts  on  tli<> 
ually  occupied  hy 
Tlie  latter  i;*  at 
depot  for   both 
of  the  railroad, 
is  UO  miles  from 
station,  and  the 
he  frontier  expe- 
westein  Dakota, 
Hiver  countries, 
the  North  Platte 

railroad  still  fol- 
,  is  similar  to  the 

nal  observations 
south  and  west  of 

r  of  tributaries; 
La  Poudre,  which 
ireeley,  and  then 
^  Missouri  River, 
Matte  is  formed  a 

spoken  of.     On 

on   any  of  tlieir 
rsuits  be  canied 
\v,;y,swith  success 
he.  Aimighty  has 
•*>n  a'    this   vast 
-  i'LsfU'P  jri-ound 
'  .  '    ..ther  jiur- 
tt.     -aii;,<'d  over 
r  t.    iv;i,   or  ages 
w.'r_.!  grows  iu 
'd   a  ricii    suste- 
st  going,  and  the 
ich  follows,  calls 
insi'Hist  hecome 
)f  the  continent. 
'  KMii'nds,  and  if 
,.  ni  I  hill,  there 
th(  ..sand  hills." 
!)ese   two   rivers 
'   with  high  roll-. 
./Di.'i'Jance  of 

litis  pasture  's 
jfrasses. 

latte  River,  you 
Hie  adaptability 

and  from  this 
lin  crossed,  you 
L!  and  flocks  of 

these  eievatf'd 
nt.  ])riven  by 
lows  and  small 
ys  left  bare,  .so 
>btain  access  to 


the  gpround,  and  the  buffalo  and  bunch  grasses 
with  which  it  is  covered.  While  hay  must  be 
cut  for  the  sustenance  of  sheep  during  the  few 
days  storms  may  last,  and  for  the  liorses  and 
cattle  that  may  be  kept  up ;  the  vast  herds, 
whether  of  cattle  or  horses,  will  go  through  the 
most  severe  winter  that  has  ever  been  known  .in 
this  region  without  hay  or  shelter,  except  that 
afforded  by  the  ravines.  The  experiment  has 
been  repeatedly  tried,  and  the  vast  herds  that 
ari3  now  kept  in  this  region,  attest  the  success  of 
that  experiment.  In  Lincohi  County,  of  which 
the  town  of  North  Platte  is  the  county-seat, 
there  are  probably  75,000  head  of  cattle  alone. 
I']it,stern  farmers  and  stock-raisers  will  see  that 
ihi  attempt  to  provide  hay  for  this  vast  immber 
w«)uld  be  useless,  and  if  required  would  render 
the  keeping  of  so  many  In  a  single  county  un- 
|»iofitable.  The  expense  of  providing  hay  would 
111  the  first  place  be  great,  and  the  expense  of 
confining  the  cattle  and  feeding  it  out  would  be 
etill  greater.  And  if  the  buffaloes  have  lived  in 
this  country  year  after  year,  during  the  flight  of 
the  centuries  without  hay,  why  may  nc  ^  cattle  and 
horses  do  likewise?  The  stock-grf zing  region 
to  which  allusion  is  here  made,  comprises  in  fact 
ill  the  country  west  of  the  100th  meridian  of 
tongit!ide,  to  the  base  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
and  the  elevated  plalaaus  or  great  parks  lying 
between  the  eastern  and  western  ranges  of  the 
same  mountains;  while  the  extent  north  and 
«outh  leaches  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  to  the 
northern  boundary  line  of  the  United  States. 
Pour  great  railroad  lines  already  penetrate  this 
fast  stock  range,  and  a  decade  will  hardly  pass 
away  before  other  lines  will  follow.  A  ready 
outlet  to  the  best  stock  nuirkets  i.i  the  country 
is  thei-efore  always  accessible  and  always  o{wn. 
But  with  all  the  natu  al  advantages  of  this 
region,  not  every  jue  who  nay  be  captivated  wit.h 
tlio  idea  of  a  stock  ranch?  and  lowing  herds,  can 
make  it  a  success.  The  I  usiness  requires  capital 
.•»nd  care — just  the  same  attention  that  is  given 
to  any  other  successful  business.  Nor  can  it  be 
safely  entered  upon  under  the  impression  that  a 
fortune  can  be  made  in  a  day  or  in  a  year.  It  is 
a  business  liuble  to  losses,  to  severe  winters,  un- 
favorable seasons  and  a  glutt'id  market.  It  does 
not  run  itself.  By  reason  of  a  single  hard  win- 
ter, one  man  in  the  stock  business  has  been 
known  to  lose  a  hundred  thousand  dollars,  and 
the  losses  that  same  winter  were  proportionally 
severe  uiwii  those  who  were  not  as  able  to  suffer 
them.  It  is  a  business  which,  if  closelv  attended 
to,  promises  large  returns  ui^ni  the  capital  in- 
vested, and  which,  at  the  same  time,  is  liable  to 
heavy  losses.  Tt  is  more  sure  than  mining  and 
inore  profitable  than  agricultural  or  dairy-farm- 
ing. But  we  shall  have  more  to  say  of  this 
hereafter,  with  sjwcific  illustrations  as  to  what 
ean  be  done  in  both  sheep  husbandry  and  cattle 
raising.     Returning  to  the  two  rivers,  one  of 


which  we  crossed  near  their  junction — the  vast 
area  of  bottom  lands  continue  to  widen,  and  for 
a  long  distance  each  has  its  broad  valley.  Leav- 
ing the  North  Platte  here  we  shall  ascend  the 
South  Platte  to  Julesburg.  About  one  mile  west 
of  the  bridge,  we  arrive  at 

Not'th  Platte — the  end  of  another  division 
of  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad.  It  is  291  miles 
from  Omaha,  and  2,789  feet  above  the  sea.  It 
is  a  thriving  city,  and  outside  of  Omaha  has 
the  most  extensive  machine  and  repair  shops 
on  the  line  of  the  road.  The  roundhouse  has 
twenty  stalls,  and  it,  together  with  the  iniichine 
and  repair  shops,  are  substantially  built  of  brick. 
In  these  shops  engines  and  cars  are  either  repaired 
or  entirely  ouilt  over, — a  process  which  cannot 
hardly  be  called  repairing,  but  which  neverthe- 
less renders  them  as  good  as  new.  The  engine- 
room  for  the  machine-shops,  is  a  model  of 
neatness;  everything  in  and  around  it  being 
kept  in  perfect  order. 

The  town  has  about  2,000  inhabitants,  two 
wideawake  newspapers ;  the  Republican  being 
a  weekly,  and  the  Western  Nebraskian  being  a 
semi-weekly,  together  with  several  wholesale  and 
retail  stores  and  shops  of  various  kinds.  The 
Railroad  House  is  the  largest  and  leading  hotel. 
About  150  men  are  given  constant  employment 
in  the  shops.  There  are  also  one  or  two  com- 
panies of  troops  stationed  here,  not  to  protect 
the  railroad  from  the  savages,  for  that  necessity 
has  passed,  but  for  economy  in  keeping  and 
convenience  for  frontier  duty.  The  town  also 
has  two  or  three  church  edifices,  a  brick  court- 
house and  brick  school-house,  both  new,  and  both 
presenting  a  fine  appearance.  There  are  also 
several  elegant  private  residences.  It  is  beauti- 
fully located,  and  has  excellent  drainage.  The 
bluffs  or  hills  are  in  near  view,  both  north  and 
south,  and  give  quit.'  a  picturesque  appearance 
to  the  country  in  tht;  immediate  vicinity.  The 
Black  Hills  excitement,  in  regard  lo  the  discovery 
of  gold,  has  had  some  effect  upon  the  town,  and 
a  railroad  oft'  to  the  north-west  is  talked.  It 
is  the  hrme  of  some  of  the  leading  stock-men  of 
this  section  of  countrv.  Near  this  city,  in  1875, 
Col.  E.  D.  Webster  and  Mrs.  A.  W.  Randall, 
wife  of  the  late  ex-postmaste'-geneia.  Randall, 
formed  a  copartnerahip  to  engage  in  the  dairying 
business,  and  erected  a  cheese  factory.  During 
the  year  they  manufacturod  about  30  tons  of 
cheese,  whicH  brought  them  a  fair  return.  Col- 
onel AVebster  claims  that  the  expeiiment  has 
demonstrated  that  the  business  can  be  carried 
on  with  profit,  and  he  believes  it  will  eventually 
become  the  leading  feature  of  this  part  of  the 
country.  He  furtiher  says  that  the  only  draw- 
back at  present  is  the  scarcity  and  unreliiability 
of  help,  it  being  difficult  to  obtain  a  suflicient 
number  of  "  milkers  "  at  a  reasonable  price  to 
milk  a  large  number  of  cows.  In  1876  the  firm 
proposes  to  make  cheese  from  t!ie  milk  of  from 


m 


I  I      111 


i    IS 


H: 


P!  «» 


ii.li:!iiiiii;:'i^iliiilllii;iliiiiii';iiiiiM 


48 


rr-t. 


ir^i^^S'- 


a: 


o , 


n 


s 


one  to  two  hundred  cows,  and  the  balance  of 
their  herd — some  five  hundred — will  be  devoted 
to  stock-raising.  This  dairy  establislnnent  is 
one  of  the  new  enterprises  of  North  Platte,  and, 
if  successful  in  the  future,  will  make  it  the 
prominent  cheese-market  of  the  West. 

The  town  has  abundant  attractions  for  invalids 
needing  rest — there  being  antelope  and  deer  in 
'he  hills,  fish  in  the  streams,  and  an  abundance 
c'   ,-are  air  to  invigorate  the  body.      It  has  a 
bright  future  and  is  destined  to  become  one  of 
the  leading  towns  on  the  line  of  the  railroad. 
Formerly  it  was  an  eating-station,  but  as  now 
lun,  trains  pass  it  in  the  night.     Tlie  road  was 
finished  to  this  town  in  the  fall  of  18fid,  from 
which  time  until  the  following  June  it  was  the 
[loint  where  all  overland  freight  was  shipped. 
It  was  a  rough  town  then,  b"t  this  state  of 
affairs  did  not  last  long,  and  the  character  of 
the  place  rapidly  improved  with  the  arrival  of 
permanent  set- 
tlers.    There 
were  a  few  In- 
dian scares,  but 
lu     serious  at- 
tac.'i  was  made 
by  the  savages 
upon  the  town. 
Two    or    three 
trains  were 
ditched   and 
wrecked,    both 
fast  and  west, 
Itutthis  was  the 
tfxtent    of    the 
damage   done 
iiy  them.      Of 
this,  however, 
we    shall    have 
more  to  say  in 
another  place. 

C7t<in«f//i?ocA.— Near  North  Platte  is  the 
tir-famed  Chimney  Ilock,  two  and  a  half  miles 
fiMm  the  south  bank  of  the  Platte  River.  It  is 
<;()inposed  of  a  friable  yellowish  marl,  which  can 
1)6  cut  readily  with  the  knife.  It  rises  in  the 
forni  of  a  thin,  perpendicular  shaft  above  a  coni- 
cal mound,  whose  base  slopes  gradually  out 
toward  the  plains.  It  appears  to  be  the  re- 
newal of  the  old  chain  of  hills  and  rocks  which 
hounded  the  valley,  but  whicii,  from  their  soft- 
Tiess  of  material,  have  been  disintegrated  by 
wind  and  weather.  This  possessing  harder  ma- 
terial has  withstood  these  effects,  although  it  is 
steadily  yielding.  In  the  days  of  Fremont's  ex- 
]>edition,  it  was  estimated  that  it  was  over  200 
iwt  in  height,  but  other  travelers  and  explorers 
^vh(»  had  seen  it  years  before,  stated  that  its 
height  had  been  as  great  as  500  feet.  In  those 
•  lays  it  was  a  landmark  visible  for  forty  or  fifty 
miles;  now  it  is  hardly  35  feet  in  height. 
Around  tttv  -w  iiat  of  the  base  runs  a  v.hite  band 


which  sets  off  its  height,  and  relieves  the  imi- 
form  yellow  tint.  It  has  often  been  struck  by 
lightning. 

Ttie  Overland  Pony  Express, 

The  Pony  Express  (of  which  few  now  remem- 
ber those  days  of  excitement  and  interest)  was 
started  in  1800,  and  the  3d  of  April,  that  year,  is 
the  memorable  date  of  the  starting  of  that  first 
trip.     In  those  days,  the  achievements  of  tlid 
Pony  Express  were  attended  with  an  eager  excite- 
ment hardly  less  interesting  than  the  building  of 
the  Pacific  Railroad  itself.     "  Overland  to  Califor- 
nia in  thirteen  dam,"  was  repeated  everywhere  as 
a  remarkable  achievement.     The  first  company 
organized  was  formed  in  California  in  1858  or 
1859,  under  the  name  of  the  Central  Overland 
California  and  Pike's  Peak  Express.     At  that 
time,  with  no  telegraph  or  even  stage  line  across 
the  continent,  this  attempt  was  considered  extra- 
ordinarily    au- 
dacious.     The 
sarvices  plan- 
ned  and    exe- 
cuted   by    the 
company    were 
a  pony  express, 
with    stations 
sixty      miles 
apart,   the    en- 
t  i  r  e     distance 
from  St. Joseph, 
Mo.,   to   Sacra- 
mento.      The 
time    occupied 
between   ocean 
and  ocean  was 
fourteen    days, 
and    from    St. 
Joseph  to  San 

CHIMMBV  BOCK,  NBAS  NOETH  PLATTE.  FraUCisCO       tCU 

days.  And  the  schedule  of  the  company  re- 
quired the  pony  express  to  make  trips  in  the 
following  time : 

From  St.  Joseph  to  Marygville,  12  honn. 

From  St.  Josepli  to  Fort  Kearny,  34  hours. 

From  St.  Joseph  to  Laramie,  80  hours. 

From  St.  Joseph  to  Fort  Bridger,  108  hours. 

From  St.  Joseph  to  Salt  Lake,  124  hours. 

From  St.  Josepli  to  Camp  Floyd,  128  hours. 

From  St.  Joseph  to  Carson  City,  118  hours. 

Prom  St.  Joseph  to  Placervllle,  226  hours. 

From  St.  Joseph  to  Sacramento,  232  hours. 

From  St.  Joseph  to  San  Francisco,  240  hours. 

An  express  messenger  left  once  a  week  from  each 
side  with  not  more  than  ten  pounds  of  matter. 
The  best  of  riders  were  chosen  from  among  trap- 

f>ers,  scouts  and  plains  men,  familiar  with  all  the 
ife  o).  ihe  route,  fearless,  and  capable  of  great 
physical  power,  endurance  and  bravery.  The 
ponies  were  very  swift  and  strong,  a  cross  be- 
tween the  American  horse  and  Indian  pony,  and 
after  each  run  of  sixty  miles,  waited  till  the  ar- 
rival of  the  messenger  from  the  opposite  direc- 


fm 


w 


44 


i      !     ■ 


i  -m 


^^iliii 


u! 


OVEULAND   I'O.NY   KXPKGSM    I'UUSUED  UY   HlfiHWAVMEN. 


tion,  when  each  returned.     The  riders  were  con- 
stantly expo;  „d  to  dangers  from  Indian  attacks 
and  pursued  by  highwaymen ;   and  to  compen- 
sate them  for  this  risk  they  received  the  large 
salary  of  $1,200  a  month  each ;  and  the  modest 
price  charged  for  the  conveyance  of  business 
letters  was  $5.00,  gold,  per  quarter  ounce.     At 
the  time  of  the  departure  of  the  first  messenger 
from  St.  Joseph,  a  special  train  was  run  over  the 
Hannibal  and  St.  Joseph  Railroad  to  bring  the 
through  messenger  from  New  York,  and  a  "  Pony 
Express  Extra  "  was  issued  of  two  pages,  by  the 
St.  .Joseph  Daily  Gazette,  containing  telegraphic 
news    from    ail 
parts  of  the 
world,    with    a 
heavily    leaded 
account  of   the 
new  enterprise, 
and  sending 
greetings  to  the 
press  of  Califor- 
nia. 

The  route 
from  St.  Joseph, 
after  reaching 
the  Platte  Val- 
ley, followed 
just  north  of  the 
present  track  of 
the  Pacific  Rail- 
,road  to  Lara- 
mie, then  up  the 

Sweet  Water  to  Salt  Lake,  and  down  the  Hum- 
boklt  to  Sacramento.     Night  and  day  the  messen- 


gers spurred  their  ponies  with  the  greatest  speed 
each  could  endure.  Often  on  arriving  at  an 
express  citation  the  messenger,  without  waiting 
to  disruount,  tossed  his  bag  to  another  already 
waiting,  and  each  were  off  at  once,  back  again, 
and  thus  for  eight  days  the  little  express  bag 
traveled,  arriving  at  the  rail  terminus,  rarely  a 
minute  behind  the  prescribed  time,  a  total  dis- 
tance of  2,000  miles. 

For  two  years  this  system  was  kept  up,  until 
the  telegraph  line  was  finished  in  1862,  when  the 
company  dissolved  with  a  loss  of  $200,000.  As  an 
instance  of  rapid  speed,  oner  ery  imirortant  dis- 
patches— e  1  e  c  - 
tion  news— were 
carried  from  St. 
Joseph,  Mo.,  to 
Denver  City, 
Col.,  625  miles, 
in  sixty-nine 
hours,  the  last 
ten  miles  being 
made  in  thirty- 
one  minutes. 
Onthisandnext 
page,  we  give 
two  illustrations 
characteristic  of 
these  times. 
One  engraving 
is  taken  from  a 
painting  of   G. 

OLD  PONY  EXPRE88  STATION  AT  CHEBftK  CKKEK,  MEUKAKKA.  Q,  jy-f,    (Htillger, 

of  Salt  Lake  City,  which  represents  the  express 
rider  dashing  along  and  cheering  the  telegraph 


45 


men  who  were  erecting  the  poles.  This  is  an 
actual  scene,  as,  in  the  summer  of  1882,  while  the 
telegraph  was  under  construction,  the  flitting  by 
of  the  Pony  Express  was  an  almost  daily  occur- 
rence. An  illustration  is  also  given  of  one  of 
these  express  stations  at  Ch«ese  Creek,  Neb., 
which  was  soon  afterwards  abandoned  as  a  thing 
of  the  past.  The  government  mails  were  carried 
by  special  contract  of  the  Overland  Mail  Com- 
pany with  the  United  States  government,  which 
was  started  in  18r)8,  who  contracted  with  them  to 
run  a  monthly  mail  from  San  Francisco  to  the 
Missouri  River  tor  a  consideration  of  l|650,000 
annual  compensation.  Of  this  company,  John 
Butterfield  who  drove  the  first  coach,  wa?  presi- 
dent. The  route  chosen  was  the  Ox  Bow,  via. 
Santa  Fe,  but  in   18B0  the  Indians  became  so 


the  driver  may  be  heard  shouting  loudly,  or  with 
terrific  whoop — a  mile  or  so  before  his  station  is 
reached  the  keepers  have  heard  it — and  as  his 
stage  rattles  up,  the  nev  /elay  of  horses  is  ready, 
and  in  two  or  three  minutes  the  stage  is  on  its  way 
again.  After  a  few  days'  journey,  tho  travelers 
become  used  to  the  swinging  motion  of  the  stage, 
and  sleep  as  naturally  as  if  made  for  such  a  life. 

A  Word  with  Invalids. 

Thousands  of  invalids,  especially  consnmptives, 
visit  the  mountains  and  California  coast,  every 
year,  in  search  of  health,  and  to  try  the  effect  of  a 
change  of  climate  in  restoring  them  to  activity  and 
vigor.  There  can  be  no  question  but  that  many 
have  been  benefited  by  the  change,  and  it  is  a  fact 
equally  patent  that  many  have  left  good  homes. 


POKT  EXPRESS  SALUTING  THE  TELEGRAPH. 


troublesome  that  the  route  was  changed  to  that 
of  the  Pony  Express,  and  soon  afterwards  a  daily 
mail  was  established  at  an  expense  of  f  1,0()0,0(M) 
annually.  The  incidents  of  overland  stage  life 
have  been  repeated  over  and  over  again  in  b(X)ks 
of  Western  adventure.  Here  and  there  were 
lonely  post-offices  away  out  on  the  distant  prairies 
or  plains.  No  passengers  to  set  down  or  take  up, 
the  driver  throws  out  his  mail-bag,  catches  the 
one  thrown  to  him,  and  whirls  on  without  stop- 
ping, or  scarcely  checking  the  speed  of  his  team. 
Morning,  noon  or  night  comes  the  inevitable 
"■  refrethment  station,"  such  as  it  is,  where  the 
weary  pas-sengers,  well  shaken  up,  were  glad  to 
regale  themselves  on  pork  and  beans,  corn  bread, 
and  "  slumgullion  " — the  Far  Western  name  for 
tea.    Toward  the  middle  of  the  night,  perhaps, 


kind  friends,  and  plenty  of  care — to  die  alone 
and  ,mong  strangers.  With  this  last  class  the 
main  trouble  is,  they  wait  too  long  in  the  East 
before  starting.  The  disease,  more  or  less  rapid 
in  its  strides,  gets  too  firnj  a  hold  upon  the  sys- 
tem— becomes  too  deeply  rooted  to  be  easily 
thrown  off ;  then  they  start  for  health  and  rest 
that  cannot  be  found,  and  most  always  go  too  far 
in  search  of  it.  There  are  a  few  words  of  ad- 
vice to  these  people,  which  are  the  iisult  of  years 
of  observation  and  e.:perience  on  the  plains  and 
among  the  mountains. 

First,  the  discovery  of  a  tendency  to  lung  and 
throat  diseases  shouid  be  a  sufficient  incentive 
to  prompt  one  to  an  immediate  change  of  cli- 
mate. Do  not  wait  until  a  change  becomes  hope- 
leas  because  of  the  advanced  stages  of  the  disease. 


46 


FMB  ^S8€IFIG  FOMiiSF. 


Second,  do  not  at  first  go  too  far.  This  is 
another  mistake  frequently  committed  by  those 
who  finally  get  started. 

Third,  do  not  go  too  fast.  Remember  the 
railroad  from  Omaha,  in  less  than  two  days,  will 
take  you  to  an  altitude  of  more  than  8,U(K)  feet, 
and  this  is  a  severe  test  on  a  pair  of  healthy 
lungs,  to  say  nothing  of  its  effect  upon  weak 
ones.  First  go  as  far  as  Grand  Island,  and  stop. 
This  place  is  1,850  feet  above  the  sea,  and  you 
are  in  the  midst  of  a  fine  prairie  country, 
with  a  generally  clear  atmosphere  and  balmy 
breezes.  Here  are  good  hotel  accommodations, 
in  a  thickly  settled  region,  where  you  can  obtain 
plenty  of  fresh  milk,  cream  and  eggs,  and  such 


either  along  the  stream  or  on  the  adjoining  high- 
lands, still  camping  out,  until  you  reach  North 
Platte.  Then  take  anotlier  rest,  look  around  the 
country,  mount  your  horse  and  ride  out  to  the 
cattle  ranches  and  live  with  the  herders  for  a 
time.  Do  not  be  in  a  hurry  to  get  away,  and 
after  you  have  been  here  a  month  or  six  weeks, 
if  you  still  improve,  or  even  hold  your  own  with 
the  character  of  the  life  herein  prescribed,  it  will 
be  safe  for  you  to  go  still  farther,  and  in  the  same 
manner.  But  if  you  are  not  benefited  by  the 
trip  thus  far,  it  will  be  better  for  you  to  return  to 
your  homes  and  friends,  where  loving  hands  can 
smooth  your  pillow  and  administer  comfort  dur* 
ing  your  declining  days. 


BUFFALO  UU^riMU. 


ii     i' 


m 


other  articles  of  diet  as  are  necessary  and  condu- 
cive to  your  welfare.  Ride  or  walk  out  from 
town;  go  around  among  the  farmers,  and  if, 
after  a  month  or  so,  you  improve  and  wish  to  go 
farther,  buy  a  team  and  wagon,  and  from  this 
place  go  along  leisurely  overland,  camping  out  if 
the  weather  te  favorable.  There  are  opportuni- 
ties for  hunting  and  fishing,  along  tne  road, 
which  will  afford  amusement  and  recreation. 
When  you  get  to  Kearny  Junction,  stop  a  few 
weeks.  Notice  the  effect  of  your  new  mode  of 
life  and  the  climate  upon  your  health,  and  if 
you  simply  hold  your  own,  it  is  safe  for  you  to 
take  another  step  up  the  Platte  Valley  in  your 
westward  journey.    Leisurely  pursue  your  way, 


If  the  journey  ha."  benefited  you,  pursue  it 
overland  and  camping  out,  to  Sidney  or  Chev- 
enne,  up  the  Lodge  Pole  Valley  and  along  si^e 
of  the  railroad,  or  at  Julesburg  go  up  the  South 
Platte  Valley  to  Greeley.  You  are  now,  if  at 
Cheyenne,  over  6,000  feet  above  the  sea,  and  be- 
tween 5,000  and  6,000  feet  at  either  Greeley  or 
Denver,  in  the  midst  of  a  rarified  and  dry  atmos- 
phere. If  jour  health  is  regained,  do  not  think 
of  returning,  for  this  is  almost  sure  to  bring  on  a 
relapse,  which  is  usually  sudden,  and  from  which 
theT  is  no  escape;  your  safety  depends  upon 
yv  :■'  remaining  in  these  high  altitudes,  and  on 
the  high  and  dry  plains  of  the  West.  A  trip 
down  in  New  Mexico,  and  acro.ss  the  plains  to 


^^*i. 


47 


the  adjoining  high 
til  you  reach  NortJi 
•est,  look  around  thft 
md  ride  out  to  the 
1  the  herders  for  a 
_y  to  get  away,  and 
month  or  six  weeks, 
hold  your  own  with 
in  prescribed,  it  will 
her,  and  in  the  same 
ot  benefited  by  the 
•  for  you  to  return  to 
re  loving  hands  can 
inister  comfort  dur- 


fid  ^ou,  pursue  it 
1  Sidney  or  Chey- 
ey  and  along  si^e 
?  go  up  the  South 
)u  are  now,  if  at 
e  the  sea,  and  be- 
either  Greeley  or 
ed  and  dry  atmos- 
ined,  do  not  think 
sure  to  bring  on  a 
1,  and  from  which 
ty  depends  upon 
altitudes,  and  on 
le  West.     A  trip 
088  the  plains  to 


Arizona,  will  also  pro"e  beneficial.  In  the  old 
ijverland  times,  thousaiids  of  consumptives  re- 
trained their  health  in  driving  teams,  and  by 
slowly  crossing  the  plains,  who  would  have  died 
if  the  same  journey  had  been  taken  on  the  cars. 
By  the  latter  mode,  the  change  from  a  dainp  and 
heavy  atmosphere  in  the  East,  to  the  rarified  and 
dry  air  of  the  plains  and  mountains,  is  too  sud- 
den; and  after  all,  if  the  disease  has  become 
thoroughly  seated,  it  is  doubtful  if  any  change 
will  be  effectual.  It  is  an  experiment  which 
should  only  be  tried  with  all  possible  safeguards 
thi'own  around  it. 

Buffalo  Grass. — After  you  have  passed  the 
stations  of  North  Platte  and  Sidney,  you  will  ob- 
serve the  entire  country  carpeted  with  a  short, 
dried  up  grass  growing  in  little  bunches.  This  is 
the  famous  buffalo  grass  which  covers  thousands  of 
miles  of  the  plains  northward  and  southward  and 
westward.  Though  it  gives  to  the  country  a 
dried  look,  as  if  the  very  appearance  of  desola- 
tion and  sterility,  yet  it  is  the  richest  grass  ever 
known  in  the  world.  The  entire  State  of  Ne- 
braska is  famous  for  its  remarkable  variety  of 
grasses.  The  Platte  Valley  is  the  home  of  no 
less  than  149  varieties,  all  native  to  the  soil, 
and  were  it  not  for  the  extraordinary  beauty 
and  luxuriance  of  the  green  carpet  the  grasses 
make,  the  Valley  of  the  Platte  would  be  almost 
wholly  devoid  of  interest.  The  buffalo  gra„s  is 
rarely  over  two  to  three  inches  in  height,  and  its 
seed  is  produced  on  flowers  almost  covered  by 
leaves  close  to  the  ground.  It  grows  in  little 
tufts,  broad  and  dense,  and  is  exceedingly  rich 
and  sweet,  having  no  less  than  3  0-10  per  cent, 
of  saccharine  matter.  When  making  its  first 
growth  in  the  spring,  it  is  green,  then  dries  on 
its  stem  and  remains  the  rest  of  the  year  like 
cured  hay  on  the  open  ground,  retaining  all  its 
sweetness.  Without  a  single  exception,  horses, 
mules  and  stock  of  all  descriptions,  will  forsake 
all  other  kinds  of  grass  until  all  the  buffalo  grass 
within  reach  has  been  consumed.  While  the 
buffaloes  roamed  over  this  country  it  was  their 
natural  food,  but  with  their  disappearance  and 
the  coming  of  the  white  man,  it  is  disappearing 
to  give  place  to  others.  Leaving  North  Platte, 
the  next  station  is 

XicholSf—29QA  miles  from  Omaha,  and  2,882 
feet  above  the  sea.  It  is  simply  a  side  track  with 
section-house  near,  in  the  midst  of  the  level 
bottom  lands  between  the  two  rivers,  both  of 
which  are  in  sight.  Befdre  reaching  North  Platte 
it  will  be  observed  that  the  bottom  narrows,  and 
that  the  bluffs  or  sand-hills  in  some  instances 
approach  the  river's  bank.  But  after  leaving 
the  town,  for  nearly  twenty  miles  west,  the  level 
prairie  between  the  rivers  spreads  out  in  view, 
with  bluffs  on  either  side  beyond.  Between 
North  Platte  and  this  station  there  are  a  few  set- 
tlers, but  the  territory  is  mostly  occupied  as  the 
winter  range  of  Keith  &  Barton's  herd  of  cattle, 


as  they  are  easily  confined  between  the  rivers 
with  little  help. 

IfFaUoH^H — is  the  next  station.  It  is  307.9 
miles  from  Omaha,  with  an  elevation  of  2,976 
feet.  It  is  a  telegraph  station.  O'Fallon's  Bluffs 
are  plainly  visible  soutli  of  the  South  Platte 
River,  which  they  closely  approach;  at  this 
point  we  lose  sight  of  the  Valley  of  the  North 
Platte — a  ridge  of  low  hills  jutting  down  from 
the  west,  while  the  railroad  follows  the  south 
river.  The  railro'id  reached  tiiis  place  late  in  the 
fall  of  18t5(J,  but  North  Platte  was  the  terminal 
station  imtil  Julesburg  was  reached  in  1867.  If 
there  was  any  timber  on  the  streams  in  this 
vicinity,  it  has  long  since  disappeared.  On  an 
island  in  the  South  Platte  the  Indians  used  to 
camp,  and  from  their  hiding  places  in  the  sand- 
hills and  bluff's,  frequently  attacked  emigrants 
and  trains,  but  as  before  remarked,  with  the  buf- 
faloes, the  Indians  disappear. 

Dexter — is  simply  a  side  track  where  trains 
occasionally  meet  and  pass.  It  is  315.2  miles  from 
Omaha,  and  has  an  elevation  of  3,000  feet.  The 
bluffs  here  come  very  near  the  river,  and  they 
are  utilized  in  the  building  of  a  corral — the  rocky 
ledge  answering  all  the  purposes  of  a  fence. 
The  monotony  of  the  scenery  up  to  this  point 
now  passes  away,  and  the  traveler  will  always 
find  something  in  the  ever-varying  views  of  rocks, 
bluffs,  streams  and  plains  that  will  interest  him 
in  the  journey. 

Alkali. — A  telegraph  station,  322.4  miles  from 
the  Missouri  River,  and  3,038  feet  above  the  sea. 
The  alkali  spots  which  have  been  witnessed  in 
the  soil  since  we  left  Omaha,  are  now  more  fre- 
quent, and  the  station  naturally  takes  its  name 
from  these  characteristics.  This  station  has  a 
small  depot,  side  track  and  section-house ;  is  in 
the  midst  of  a  fine  grazing  country,  and  opposite 
an  old  stage  station  south  of  the  river. 

lioscoe. — Simply  a  side  track,  332.0  miles 
from  Omaha,  with  an  elevation  of  3,105  feet. 
Just  before  reaching  this  place,  and  in  this  vicin- 
ity, the  railroad  passes  through  mor^  sandy 
bluffs  that  approach  the  river. 

Ogalalla — is  the  next  station,  341.6  miles 
from  Omaha.  Elevation  3,190  feet.  It  is  th« 
county-seat  of  Keith  County,  Nebraska,  and  is 
destined  to  be  the  Texas  town  on  the  line  of  the 
Union  Pacific.  The  regular  trail  for  driving 
cattle  from  Texas  may  be  said  to  terminate  here. 
It  has  a  depot,  water  tank,  side  tracks,  cattle 
chutes,  store,  one  or  two  boarding-houses,  saloon, 
etc.  It  is  the  head-quarters  and  outfitting  place 
of  a  large  number  of  ranchmen,  who  have  herds 
of  cattle  in  this  vicinity.  It  is  some  twelve 
miles  from  the  North  Platte  River,  where  a  num- 
ber of  herds  find  ample  range.  In  1880,  it  is 
claimed  that  nearly  50,000  head  of  Texas  cattle 
were  driven  to  tliis  point,  and  afterwards  dis- 
tributed to  various  parties  to  whom  they  were 
sold.    A  large  number  of  them  were  taken  to  the 


! 


t    ! 


•ii 


43 


TMM  ^stcmc  FQ&9ISr. 


) 

:  t 


Indian  agencies  at  Red  Cloud  and  Spotted  Tail. 
There  will  be  numerous  building  erected  soon  to 
accommodate  the  growing  necessities  of  the  town. 
Leaving  Ogalalla  we  next  come  to 

Brule, — so  called  from  the  Brule  Sioux,  a 
band  of  which  Spotted  Tail  is  the  chief.  Red 
Cloud  is  chief  of  the  Ogalalla  Sioux.  This  is 
probably  the  most  |x)werful  tribe  of  Indians  now 
existing  in  the  country,  and  when  all  united  they 
are  said  to  be  able  to  raise  at  least  1U,(XK)  war- 
riors. Those  of  them  who  have  been  taken  east 
to  Washington  and  other  eastern  cities,  seem  to 
have  lost  their  belligerent  feelings  toward  the 
whites,  and  will  not  probably  go  to  war  with 
them  unless  misled  by  tricksters  or  influenced  by 
8ome  other  powerful  motive.  The  young  "  bucks" 
who  have  remained  on  their  reservations,  how- 
ever, think  they  can  whip  the  whole  country  in 
a  very  short  time  if  they  should  once  get  at  it. 
This  station  was  a  favorite  cro-ssing  place  with 
this  band  of  Sioux  during  the  years  when  they 
used  to  hunt  on  the  rivers  south,  or  go  on  their 
scalping  and  horse-stealing  expeditions.  Brule 
is  351.2  miles  from  Omaha,  and  has  an  eleva- 
tion of  3,266  feet.  North  of  this  place,  on 
the  North  Platte,  is  Ash  Hollow,  a  celebrated 
camping  gound  for  Indians  and  the  scene  of  a 
great  victory  over  them  by  General  Harney,  in 
1859.  The  whole  tribe  of  Sioux  probably  nave 
a  greater  admiration  for  General  Harney,  to-day, 
than  for  any  other  living  American.  Physical 
force  is  the  only  power  which  they  can  be  made 
to  respect  and  fear.     Next  comes 

Big  Sprinff, —vfhich  is  360.9  miles  frm  the 
eastern  end  of  the  road,  with  an  elevation  of 
3,325  feet.  It  is  so  named  from  large  springs 
whr'ch  break  to  the  surface  of  the  ground  at  the 
foot  of  the  bluffs,  on  the  right-hand  side  of  the 
road  going  west,  and  in  plain  sight  of  the  cars. 
The  water  tank,  at  this  station,  is  supplied  from 
these  springs.  The  water  is  excellent,  and  the 
station  is  quite  a  camping  place  for  those  who 
continue  to  journey  overland.  This  is  a  tele- 
graph station. 

Barton,  -called  after  Hon.  Guy  C.  Barton  of 
North  Platte.  Ic  is  368.7  miles  from  Omalia,  and 
3,421  feet  above  the  sea — simply  a  side  track 
where  trains  meet  and  pass.  Beyond  this  sta- 
tion, a  shoiii  distance,  the  old  town  of  Julesburg 
can  be  seen  across  the  river.  Late  in  1875,  a 
stray  herd  of  about  six  hundred  buffaloes  quietly 
passed  over  the  old  town  site  to  and  from  the 
river,  where  they  went  for  water.  It  will  proba- 
bly be  their  last  visitation  to  this  part  of  the 
country. 

Denver  tTunction — 371  miles  from  Omaha, 
3,541  feet  above  the  sea.  The  "Denver  Short 
Line,"  a  branch  of  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad, 
here  turns  off  to  the  southwest,  soon  enters 
South  Platte  Yalley,  and,  by  easy  grades  and 
great  saving  in  distance  over  existing  routes, 
Jeada  direct  to  Denver,  while  the  Overland  Route 


pursues  its  course  directly  west.  This  branch 
IS  graded  and  bridged  nearly  the  entire  distance 
and  ironed  part  of  the  way.  It  will  doubtless 
be  in  operation  through  to  Denver  in  August, 
1881.  This  branch  was  first  commenced  some 
ten  years  ago,  but,  by  an  agreement  made  in 
1875,  the  Union  Pacific,  or  men  in  the  com- 
pany, relinquished  the  proposed  and  completed 
roads  in  Colorado  to  the  Kansas  Pacific,  ami  M 
the  latter  road  relinquished  its  through-busi< 
ness  to  the  Parifio  Coast,  ond  its  efforts  to  com- 

gel  tho  Union  Pacific  to  pro  rate  with  it  from 
heyenne  West.  This  arrangement  effected  tho 
entire  suspension  of  all  efforts  to  complete  thie 
roatl  until  tho  Union  Pacific  Company  bouglit 
up  the  ivansas  Pacific  in  1879,  when  operations 
were  soon  again  commenced  on  abandoned 
routes.  This  line  will  be  some  seventy  miloij 
shorter  than  the  present  route  from  Omaha  t(i 
Denver  via  Cheyenne,  eighty-five  miles  shorter 
from  the  Missouri  River  to  Denver  than  the  old 
Kansas  Pacific  route  from  Kansas  City,  and  201) 
miles  shorter  than  tho  Atchison,  Topeka  and 
Santa  Pe  from  the  same  point. 

The  Union  Pacific  Company  is  arrang- 
ing to  run  a  fast  Denver  Express  through 
from  Omaha  to  Denver  via  this  line,  for  tho 
accommodation  of  passengers  arriving  at  Omaha 
from  tho  East  at  night,  and  will  enable  patrons 
to  reach  the  '« Queen  City  of  the  Plains"  from 
Chicago  or  St.  Louis  in  twelve  hours'  quicker 
time  than  ever  before. 

JVeir,  formerly  tJulefthnrq — 377.4  milei» 
from  Omaha,  and  3,500  feet  above  the  sea — is  au 
interesting  historical  jioint,  and  for  many  yeaii 
has  been  one  of  tlio  most  important  stations  in 
Western  Nebraska.  It  was  named  offer  Juhs 
Burg — a  frontier  character,  who  was  killed  by 
one  Jack  Sladc,  another  rough,  in  tho  old  ovei- 
land  stage  times.  The  old  town  was  across  the 
river,  some  four  miles  below  the  present 
station,  and  was  a  pretty  rough  place.  The 
station  is  opposite  old  Fort  Sedgwick,  now 
abandoned,  and  was  the  proposed  jtinction  of 
the  branch  railroad,  above  described,  up  tho 
South  Platte  River.  It  has  been  quite  a  place 
for  shipping  stock,  has  one  or  two  stores,  some 
adobe  houses  and  stables,  with  cattle-^-ards  and 
chutes.  At  this  point  the  Union  Pacific  passes 
through  the  northeastern  comer  of  Colorado, 
and  hero  it  leaves  the  South  Platte  River  and 
ascends  Lodge  Pole  Creek  to  within  a  few 
miles  of  Cheyenne. 

Inddentm  in  ttie  History  of  Julenburg. 

The  Overland  Stage  Company  had  quite  an  im- 
portant station  at  Julesburg,  south  side  of  the 
river,  and  about  a  mile  east  of  the  location  of 
For*  Sedgwick.  It  was  in  1865,  before  any  roils 
had  been  laid  on  the  Union  Pacific.  The  stage 
company  had  accumulated  a  large  quantity  of 
dupp]  ies  at  this  station,  and  the  Indians  knowing 


FMS  f^aCIFiC  FOtmiST. 


49 


est.  This  branch 
ho  entiro  dlBtance 

It  will  doubtless 
Denver  in  August, 

commenced  some 
grcement  made  in 

men  in  the  com- 
led  and  completed 
ansas  Pacific,  ond  n« 

its  throuph-busi  ■ 

its  eflbrts  to  com  ■ 
rate  with  it  from 
ement  effected  tliu 
iS  to  complete  thi» 
Company  bought 
,  when  operations 
id  on  abandoned 
me  seventy  milon 
a  from  Omaha  t(i 
-five  miles  shorter 
mverthantheold 
nsas  City,  and  200 
ison,  Topeka  and 

pony  is  arrang- 
Express  through 
this  lino,  for  the 
arriving  at  Omaha 
ill  enable  patrons 
the  Plains  "  from 
ve  hours'  quicker 

rf/ — 377.4  mile» 
3ve  the  sea — is  an 
d  for  many  yean 
ortant  stations  in 
timed  after  Juha 
ho  was  killed  by 
,  in  the  old  ovei  - 
vn.  wos  across  th  a 
3W  the  preseii  t 
igh  place.     The 

Sedgwick,  now 
osed  junction  of 
escribed,  up  the 

en  quite  a  place 
two  stores,  some 

cattle-yards  and 
on  Pacific  passes 
aer  of  Colorado, 
'latte  River  and 
within  a  few 


of  Jiilesburg. 

had  quite  an  im- 
outh  side  of  the 

the  location  of 
,  before  any  rails 

ific.  The  stage 
Tge  quantity  of 
Indians  knowing 


this,  and  ever  hostile  to  the  travel  of  the  whites 
Uirough  this  region,  had  their  cupidity  aroused. 
Troops  were  scattered  all  along  the  route,  and 
frequently  had  to  escort  the  stages  from  one  sta- 
tion to  another.  At  Julesburg,  the  road  cro-ssed 
the  South  Platte,  followed  the  Lodge  I'ole  up  to 
Sidney,  and  then  crossed  over  to  the  North 
Platte,  which  it  ascended  to  Fort  Laramie  and 
beyond.  Capt.  N.  J.  O'Brien  was  in  command 
at  the  fort,  with  one  company  of  the  Seventh 
Iowa  Cavalry,  and  two  pieces  of  artillery.  On 
the  7th  of  January,  1875,  the  Sioux  and  Chey- 
ennes,  one  thousand  strong,  discovering  the 
small  force  to  defend  it,  attacked  the  fort  with 
great  bravery.  They  had  previously  run  the 
stage  into  the  station,  killing  one  man  and  one 
horse.      When  their   presence  was  discovered, 


but  leaving  their  dead  comrades  to  full  into  the 
hands  of  the  blood-tliirsty  foe.  The  Indians  per- 
ceiving their  dis[K)sitiou  to  fall  back,  redoubled 
their  efforts,  and  endeavored  to  cut  them  off  from 
the  fort.  They  attacked  with  greater  fury  and 
boldness  than  ever,  and  came  very  near  effecting 
tlieir  purjwse.  The  men,  however,  fell  back  in 
good  order,  and  were  successful  in  gaining  the 
fort.  The  Indians  now  surrounded  this,  but  the 
artillery  was  brought  out  and  served  with  good 
effect,  so  that  they  were  kept  at  bay,  and  event- 
ually night  put  an  end  to  the  conflict.  In  the 
night  the  Indians  withdrew,  and  when  the  morn- 
ing broke,  not  one  was  in  sight.  But  now  comes 
the  most  horrible  part  of  this  incident.  The 
men  went  out  to  find,  if  possible,  the  bodies  of 
their  dead   comrades.     They   found   them,  but 


INDIAN  ATTACK  ON  AN  OVEBLAND  8TAOE. 


Captain  O'Brien  made  the  best  disposition  possi- 
ble with  his  small  force.  lie  left  a  sergeant  with 
some  twelve  men  .in  the  fort,  to  handle  the  artil- 
lery, and  mounting  the  rest,  thirty-seven  men 
and  one  officer,  besides  himself,  went  ont  to  meet 
the  savages.  The  charge  was  sounded,  and  in 
they  went.  About  a  mile  from  the  fort  there  is 
aproiecting  hill  in  the  bluffs,  back  of  and  around 
wnicn  the  main  body  of  the  Indians  were  con- 
cealed. As  the  men  neared  the  top  of  this  hill, 
they  saw  the  large  force  opposed  to  them,  but 
never  flinched.  The  Indians  charged  uix)n  them 
with  great  fury,  and  for  quite  a  time  the  unei]ual 
contest  was  continued.  But  his  ranks  having 
become  depleted  by  the  loss  of  fourteen  of  the 
thii-ty-seven  enlisted  men,  the  captain  ordered 
them  to  fall  back,  which  they  did  in  good  order, 


nearly  all  were  beyond  recognition ;  stripped  of 
every  vestige  of  clothing,  mutilated  beyond  ac- 
count, cold  and  stark  they  lay,  in  the  places  they 
had  fallen ;  their  fingers,  toes  and  ears  cut  off, 
their  mouths  filled  with  powder  and  ignited,  and 
every  conceivable  indigtnty  committed  upon  their 
persons.  Sorrowfully  they  gathered  up  these  re- 
mains, and  conveyed  them  to  the  fort,  where 
they  were  decently  buried ;  but  the  recollections 
of  that  awful  night,  did  not  fade  from  the  mem- 
ories of  the  survivors  of  that  company.  In  sub- 
sequent battles  with  the  savages,  their  courage 
was  quickened  and  their  arms  nei-vcd  to  deeds  of 
daring,  which  cost  many  a  warrior  his  life,  and 
gave  him  a  sudden  exit  to  his  happy  hunting 
grounds.  The  loss  of  the  savages  in  this  battle, 
could  not,  at  the  time,  be  accurately  ascertained. 


AU 


rmm  ^;§ciFtc  roimisr. 


1  m 


■:l!;:'.' 


but  from  the  best  information  since  obtained, 
admitted  by  the  Indians  themselves,  they  hod 
sixty-three  warriors  killed  in  this  engagement. 
None  were  found  on  the  held,  as  they  always  carry 
their  dead  away  with  them. 

On  the  second  day  of  February,  less  than  a 
month  from  the  above  attack,  they  ap}ieared  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  fort  again,  and  attacked  and 
burned  the  station  house  of  the  stage  conipany, 
other  out-buildings  and  stores,  and  one  or  two 
houses  adjoining.  Five  miles  below  the  station 
was  a  ravine  called  the  Devil's  Dive,  through 
which  the  stages  passed.  Captain  O'Brien  and 
four  or  five  men  were  escorting  the  coach  with 
three  or  four  passengers,  one  of  whom  was  a  lady. 
As  he  ascended  the  bank  of  the  ravine  going  to- 
ward the  fort,  he  saw  a  smoke,  and  riding  up  to  the 
top  of  a  hill,  he  saw  Indians.  Ueturning  to  the 
coach,  he  had  every  man,  passengers  and  all,  care- 
fully examine  his  arms,  and  caused  the  coach  to 
Eroceed  slowljr  along.  Soon  the  road  neared  the 
ank  of  the  river,  and  here  he  met  some  team 
sters  with  wagons,  who,  beyovd  a  pistol  or  two, 
were  unarmed,  and  who  had  left  the  station  for 
some  object,  less  than  a  half  hour  before.  They 
now  became  aware  of  the  situation,  and  were 
greatly  alarmed.  These  men  the  captain  ordered 
to  return  and  keep  near  the  stage,  which  they  did, 
all  moving  slowly  toward  the  station  and  fort. 
Meanwhile  the  heads  of  ludians  were  popping 
up  quite  frequently,  over  the  bluffs  in  the  dis- 
tance. Arriving  near  one  of  these,  the  captain 
boldly  rode  to  the  top,  and  taking  his  blanket 
swunof  it  three  times  over  his  head.  The  Indians 
saw  this,  and  supposed  he  had  a  large  force  in 
the  rear,  which  he  was  signaling  to  come  up,  and 
they  began  to  fly.  The  river  was  frozen,  and 
sand  had  been  scattered  over  two  roadways  on 
the  ice.  They  took  everything  they  could  from 
the  burning  station  and  houses,  and  beat  a  re- 
treat across  the  river.  At  the  first  sign  of  their 
leaving,  the  stage-driver  and  teamsters  put  their 
nnimals  to  their  utmi^st  speed,  and  ran  into  the 
fort,  the  captain  arriving  there  in  time  to  give 
the  Indians  a  few  parting  shots  from  his  artillery 
»s  the  last  of  them  ran  across  the  river.  The 
shots  ricocheted  along  the  ice,  and  caused  the 
Indians  to  drop  some  of  their  plunder,  though 
doing  no  further  damage,  as  we  could  learn. 

These  are  only  two  of  the  many  incidents  in 
our  frontier  history,  that  will  soon  be  beyond 
ih?  reach  and  knowledge  of  either  the  present  or 
future  generations. 

The  Great  Indian  BatUe  at  Summit 
SpHnffs, 

On  the  divide  south  of  the  South  Platte  River, 
and  about  midway  between  old  Fort  Morgan 
and  old  Fort  Sedgwick,  oppoi^ite  to  which  Jules- 
burg  now  stands,  there  are  seme  fine  springs — 
the  only  good  water  in  quite  a  region  of  territory. 
They  are  now  called  Summit  Springs ;  and  are 

4 


near  the  summit  of  a  divide  from  which  the 
water,  when  there  is  any,  runs  north  and  south. 
In  the  winter  of  }>M9,  Major  F)'ank  North,  be- 
fore alluded  to,  received  orderj  to  recruit  his 
scouts  for  the  summer  campaign.  He  organized 
one  conipany  in  February,  and  two  the  foTlowuig 
April,  tlie  total  number  in  the  three  companies 
being  one  hundred  and  fifty  men,  exclusive  of 
their  white  otficers.  In  April  of  that  year,  Gen- 
eral Carr,  taking  two  of  these  companies  and 
eight  of  the  Fifth  Cavalry,  then  stationed  at 
Fort  Mcl'herson,  was  ordered  to  scout  the  coun- 
try in  the  llepublican,  Solomon  and  Saline  Val- 
leys and  their  tributaries,  and  strike  any  ma- 
rauding bands  of  Indians  he  might  find.  At 
that  time,  the  Indians  were  raiding  the  advanced 
settlements  in  the  lower  Republican  and  Solomoit 
Valleys,  burning  houses,  killing  and  scalpinji,' 
men,  women  and  children,  and  stealing  all  the 
horses  they  could  find.  The  third  company  of 
the  scouts  had  i  then  been  organized.  As 
soon  as  this  war  \  Major  North  was  ordered 

to    take  them  the  country   from   Fort 

Kearny,  and  juu.  vjeneral  Carr's  command,  at 
the  month  of  Prairie  Dog  Creek,  in  the  Repub- 
lican Valley.  This  he  did,  effecting  a  iunction 
about  the  5th  of  May.  After  scouting  the  coun- 
try between  the  Republican  and  Solomon  for 
about  a  month,  the  command  returned  to  the 
Republican,  where  it  met  a  supply  train,  which 
had  been  sent  out  from  Fort  McPherson,  and 
then  proceeded  up  the  valley.  On  arriving  at 
the  mouth  of  Medicine  Creek,  they  struck  the 
trail  of  a  large  village.  This  was  on  the  first 
day  of  July,  and  they  cor>tinued  to  follow  it  up 
the  river  for  about  one  hundred  and  twenty-five 
miles.  The  trail  then  left  the  valley,  and  bore 
off  to  the  North,  until  it  struck  Frenchman 
Creek,  then  up  that  creek  to  its  source,  and  then 
over  a  divide  to  Summit  Springs,  about  thirty- 
five  miles  from  the  headwaters  of  the  Frenchman. 
The  Indians  of  this  village  kept  pickets  out  as  a 
sort  of  a  rear-guard,  but  did  not  think  of  an  at- 
tack from  another  quartev.  The  Pawnee  scouts 
were  constantly  in  the  advance,  and  kept  the 
command  well  informed  of  the  condition  and  dis- 
position of  the  Indians.  They  had  discovered 
the  rear-guard  of  the  Indians^  without  being 
themselves  seen,  reporting  their  situation,  and 
telling  just  how  the  attack  should  be  conducted, 
in  order  to  be  successful.  A  wide  detour  would 
have  to  be  made,  and  the  Indian  village,  en- 
camped in  a  ravine  near  the  springs,  would  have 
to  be  approached  and  attacked  from  the  west. 
Every  precaution  was  taken  to  conceal  the  mov» 
ments  of  the  troops.  The  attack  was  made  on  the 
11  th  day  of  July.  The  heavy  wagon  train  was  left 
in  the  rear,  and  the  best  horses  with  their  riders, 
were  selected  for  the  march,  which  was  supposed 
to  be,  with  the  detour  mentioned,  at  least  fifty 
miles.  The  command  arrived  within  about  a 
mile  and  a  half  of  the  Indians  undiscovered,  at 


;^ 


^ 


l!i:.:^::: 


FMX  ^^€iFi€  FOiT^iSr. 


ftl 


about  three  o'clock,  p.  m.,  but  before  the  disposi- 
tions and  arran^reinents  for  making  the  linal 
diarge  had  been  fully  completed,  one  company  of 
cavalry  unnecessarily  exixjsed  itself,  and  this  pre- 
cipitated the  attack.  The  Indians  were  Sioux, 
forty  lodges,  Cheyennes,  forty-five  lodges — eighty- 
five  in  all.  They  had  been  in  the  raids  together, 
and  were  to  separate  the  next  day.  They  had 
evidently  concluded  to  take  one  day  at  these 
splendid  Springs,  for  the  enjoyment  of  their  fare- 
well pow-wow,  but  it  proved  to  be  a  "  bad  medi- 
cine day  "  for  them.  When  they  saw  the  com- 
pany of  cavalry  that  had  unfortunately  been 
exposed  to  their  view,  they  ran  out  to  gather  in 
their  horses,  which  were  quietly  feeding  in  the 


the  chief.  He  was  peen,  as  the  troops  approached, 
mounted  upon  his  horse,  with  his  wife  and  child 
behind  him,  trying  to  esca[)e,  but  when  he  found 
his  retreat  cut  off,  he  ran  into  a  "  pocket "  or 
"  draw,"  in  the  side  of  a  ravine,  with  almost  per- 
pendicular sides,  where  some  fifteen  other  war- 
riors had  taken  refuge.  lie  had  a  very  fine  horse, 
which  he  led  to  the  mouth  of  this  "  pocket "  and 
shot  dead.  Ho  then  took  his  wife  and  child  and 
pushed  them  up  on  the  bank  of  the  "pocket," 
telling  her,  as  he  did  this,  to  go  and  give  them- 
selves up,  perhaps  their  lives  would  be  spared. 
The  squaw  and  her  child,  a  beautiful  girl,  went 
straight  to  Major  North,  and  raising  her  hands 
in  token  of  submission,  drew  them  gently  over 


INDIAN  COSTUMES. 


vicinity  of  their  camp,  a  mile  or  more  away. 
There  was  no  time  for  delay.  The  troops  and 
scouts  charged  down  upon  them  with  all  their 
speed.  The  scouts,  as  usual,  set  up  tbsir  infernal 
war-whoop,  and  went  in  with  a  rush.  The  In- 
dians were  wholly  unprepared  for  the  attack,  and 
some  of  them  were  quietly  lounging  in  their 
tents.  In  fact  it  was  nearly  a  complete  surprise. 
They  were  all  under  the  lead  of  Tall  Bull,  a  noted 
Cheyenne  chief  and  warrior,  and  numbered  about 
five  hundred  men,  women  and  children — nearly 
or  quite  two  hundred  being  warriors.  Seventeen 
squaws  and  children  were  taken  prisoners,  and 
as  near  as  could  be  estimated,  one  hundred  and 
sixty  warriors  were  slain,  among  them  Tall  Bull, 


his  face  and  down  his  form  to  the  ground,  where 
she  sank  upon  her  knees,  her  child  standing  be- 
side her.  While  Major  North  can  talk  Pawnee 
like  a  native,  he  could  not  understand  what  she 
said,  but  as  all  Indians  use  sign  language  to  a 
great  extent,  he  readily  interpreted  her  motions 
to  mean  that  she  surrendered,  and  wanted  him  to 
spare  their  lives.  He  motioned  her  to  rise,  which 
she  did,  and  told  her  by  signs  to  go  a  little  way, 
sit  down  and  stay  there,  and  she  would  not  be 
harmed.  Shn  then,  by  signs,  indicated  that 
there  were  seven  living  braves  still  in  the 
"pocket,"  and  asked  him  to  go  in  after  them, 
doubtless  thinking  that  her  husband  might  be 
saved  with  herself.    He  declined  this  request. 


52 


ili'j 


(  ti*t 


especially  as  the  fndians  were  shooting  every  o;'<3 
they  could  see  from  their  concealed  ^wsition,  it 
being  simply  a  quF,.iion  of  life  for  life,  and  fur- 
ther told  her  tH.^t  the  biaves  in  the  ravine  would 
all  be  killed.  The  trcps  and  scouts  staid 
around  this  "  pocket,"  unti.  satisfied  that  there 
were  no  living  Indians  theia,  and,  on  entering, 
found  sixteen  dead  warriors  5i,i:d  one  dead  squaw, 
lying  close  together,  among  wh».  m  was  Tall  Bull. 
In  their  raids  in  the  Solomon  '^alley,  they  had 
captured  two  white  women,  whos  j  lives  they  had 
spared  for  purposes  worse  than  death,  and  at  the 
time  this  attack  wt^s  made,  they  were  still  alive. 
One  of  them  had  been  taken  by  the  principal 
Sioux  chief,  and  the  other  was  appropriated  by 
Tall  Bull,  whose  wife,  doubtless  from  motives  of 
ignorant  jealousy,  was  accustomed  to  give  her 
severe  whippings,  at  least  six  days  out  of  every 
seven,  and  ner  body  showed  the  marks  where  she 
had  been  repeatedly  bruised  and  lacerated  by 
Tall  Bull's  squaw.  The  white  woman  who  was 
appropriated  by  ths  Sioux  chief,  when  he  found 
she  was  likely  to  be  rescuodj  was  shot  dead  by 
him,  and  only  gasped  for  breath  a  few  times  af- 
ter being  found  by  some  of  the  officers,  unable  to 


PAWMEE  CHIEF  m  VVht  ^RESS. 


utter  a  word.  As  near  as  could  be  learned,  her 
name  was  Susanna.  It  was  afterwards  ascer- 
tained that  she  was  a  Norwegian  womin,  and 
General  Carr,  in  his  report  of  the  battle,  calls  the 
Springs,  Susanna  Springs,  after  this  woman,  and 
near  which  she  was  decently  buried,  and  which 
name  they  ought  to  bear  now. 

When  the  charge  was  first  begun.  Captain 
Gushing  of  the  scouts,  passing  by  the  lodge  of 
Tall  Bull,  er'tered  it.  The  chief,  as  before 
stated,  had  fled  with  his  wife  and  child  at  the 
first  approach  of  danger,  but  in  his  lodge  there 
remained  the  other  captive  woman,  whom  he 
had  shot  and  evidently  left  for  dead.  She  was 
a  German  woman,  unaole  to  speak  English,  and 
up  to  this  time,  had  supposed,  from  the  presence 
ot  the  scouts,  that  the  fight  was  1>^  ween  Indians, 
and  that  whatever  the  resuH,  there  would  be  no 
change  for  the  better  so  far  as  she  was  concerned. 
As  the  captain  entered  the  lodge,  he  saw  thia 
woman  in  a  sitting  posture,  nearly  denuded,  with 
the  blood  running  down  her  waist.  When  the 
chief  left  the  tent,  he  had  shot  her  in  the  side, 
aiming  at  her  heart,  but  the  bullet  truck  a  rib, 
glanced,  passed  part  way  around  In  body,  and 
came  out  near  the  spine.  As  the  figiit  had  just 
commenced,  Cai)tain  Gushing  told  her  by  motions 
and  as  best  he  could,  tc  stiy  there  and  she  would 
be  taken  care  of,  but  not  comprehending  his 
meaning,  and  now,  for  the  first  time,  i-ealizing 
that  while  men  were  engaged  in  the  battle,  she 
thought,  as  he  started  to  go,  that  she  was  to  be 
left,  ai;d  with  tho  most  pitifid  moan  ever  uttered 
by  human  lips,  she  lifted  her  arms;  clasped  him 
around  his  limbs,  and  in  every  j)ossible  way, 
begged  him  not  to  leave  her  with  the  savages. 
Others  passing  by,  he  called  them  in,  and  th(!i 
woman  was  purtinlly  made  to  understand  that 
ihe  would  be  cared  lor.  lie  disengaged  himself 
from  her  embrace,  and  after  the  fight  had  ended, 
returned  and  took  her  to  the  surgeon,  who  saw 
that  her  wounds  were  not  fatal,  that  they  were 
properly  dressed,  and  provif'ied  for  her  as  best  he 
could  on  the  return  march  tc  Fort  Sedgwick,  op- 
posite where  Julesbu)g  now  stands,  where  she 
was  placed  in  the  hospital  and  soon  recovered. 
A  few  months  later,  having  no  home  or  friends 
where  she  was  taken  captive,  site  was  married  to 
a  soldier,  who  was  discharged  by  reason  of  expi- 
ration of  service.  Tho  troops  and  scouts  cap- 
tured in  this  fight,  nearly  six  hundred  head  of 
horses  and  mules,  all  the  tents  of  the  two  tribes, 
an  immense  quantity  of  buffalo  meat  and  robes, 
fifty  guns  of  various  kinds,  with  pistols,  fancy 
Inciian  head-dresses,  trinkets,  etc.,  and  §1,900  in 
twentv-df'H.iv  gold  pieces,  which  the  Indians  had 
taken  from  this  German  woman's  father  at  the 
time  she  was  captured.  About  $900  of  this  gold 
was  restored  to  the  woman,  and  if  the  white  sol- 
diers had  been  as  honest  and  generous  as  the 
bravo  I'awnee  scouts,  when  the  appeal  i  )r  its 
restoration  was  made,  every  lost  dollar  would 


ii  1 


rmm  ^siciFiG  romusr, 


53 


have 


been  returned, 
up  over  $(JOl). 


Of  the  ^00,  the  scouts 
gave  up  over  iffouu.  The  seventeen  prisoners 
taken,  included  Tall  Bull's  wife  and  child. 
They  were  first  carried  to  Fort  Sedgwick,  then 
sent  to  Omaha,  where  they  were  kept  uhder 
guard  for  about  six  weeks,  and  then  sent  to  the 
Whetstone  Agency,  on  the  Missouri  River  above 
Yankton.  The  widowed  squaw  married  a  Sioux 
Indian  at  the  Red  Cloud  Agency,  where  she  is 
now  living. 

Prairie  Dogs. — The  little  villages  of  prairie 
dogs  which  are  seen  frequently  by  passengers 
from  the  car  v/indov-d,  soon  after  leaving  Sidney, 
and  line  the  track  for  many  miles,  are  full  of 
curious  features  of  animal  life.  Ladies  clap 
their  hands,  and  children  shout  with  glee  at 
sight  of  these  cunning  little  creatures.  It  is  a 
pretty  little  animal,  curious  in  shape,  al^^.ays 
fat,  grayish  red  color,  about  sixteen  inches  in 
lenprth,  and  always  lives  with  a  multitude  of  its 
coh^pauions  in  villages.  It  has  a  short,  yelp- 
ing sound,  which  it  is  very  fond  of  uttering,  and 
has  some  res€>"biance  to  the  bark  of  a  young 
puppy.  T^he  curious  mounds  or  burrows  are  of 
considerable  dimensions,  dug  in  a  sloping  direc- 
tion at  an  angle  of  forty-five  degrees  with  the 
surfacf)  of  the  ground.  After  descending  two  or 
three  yards  they  make  a  sudden  turn  upward, 
and  terminate  in  a  spacious  chamber. 

In  thp  same  hole  with  the  prairie  dog  ia  found 
fre(iuentl;>  the  burrowing  owl,  and  often  upon  the 
summits  of  their  little  burrows  may  be  seen  the 
solemn  owl  on  one  side  of  the  hole  in  stately 
silence;  while  on  the  other  side  is  the  lively 
little  prairie  dog,  squatted  on  the  fattest  pait 
with  head  bobbed  up,  and  fore  paws  hanging 
down,  ready  at  the  slightest  noise  to  dart  head- 
first into  hia  hole.  In  some  of  these  holes  lattlo- 
snakes  have  been  found.  What  harmony  or 
fongruity  there  can  be  in  the  lives  of  these  three 
diverse  species  of  creature,  :,o  help  form  a  happy 
family,  no  one  can  givf  the  reason,  but  all  ac- 
counts seem  to  agree  tl  t  the  stately  owl  and  the 
treacherous  snake  make  their  home  with  the 
little  dogs,  to  abuse  the  hospitality  of  their  four- 
footed  friends  by  devouring  their  young. 

The  scene  presented  by  one  of  these  dog  vil- 
lages is  very  curious.  The  prairie  dog  is  no  less 
inquisitive  than  timid.  On  the  approach  of  an 
intruder,  the  little  creature  gives  a  sharp  yelp  of 
alarm,  and  dives  into  its  burrow,  its  exam  >le 
being  at  once  followed  by  all  its  neighbors.  For 
an  instant  tlie  village  appears  to  be  deserted; 
but  soon  their  curiosity  gets  the  better  of  their 
prudence,  and  their  inquisitive  little  noses  are 
seew  protruding  fix)m  their  burrows,  to  ascertain 
the  cause  of  the  alarm,  a  ciniosity  which  often 
costs  them  dear.  The  prairie  dog  is  remarkably 
tenacious  of  lif>3,  and  unless  shot  in  the  head  is 
euro  to  escape  into  itM  hole.  The  writer  has 
often  seen  attempts  to  shoot  them  from  the  train 
as  ii.  passes.     Away  scampers  the   little   dog, 


stomach  so  full  that  it  touches  the  ground,  whi]« 
little  feet  pulled  for  dear  life  for  its  own  hole^ 
and  by  its  side  or  under  it  traveled  the  liveUof 
bullet,  each  tearing  up  a  stream  of  dust  quicker 
than  the  eye  can  follow.  Attempts  have  been 
made  to  tame  them  as  pets,  but  they  rarely  ever 
live  long,  and  have  too  apt  a  way  of  biting  off 
fingers.  They  live  only  on  the  roots  of  grasses, 
not  being  flesh  eaters. 

Burton,  an  early  traveler  across  the  continent 
in  1861,  was  immensely  interested  in  his  exami> 
nation  of  a  prairie  dog  village.  The  Indians  call 
them  "  Wish-ton-wish"  from  some  slight  resemr 
blance  to  this  cry.  ' 

"  Wish-ton-wish  "  was  at  home,  sitting  posted 
like  a  sentinel  upon  the  roof,  and  sunning  hinv 
self  in  the  mid-day  glow.  It  is  not  easy  to  shoot 
him ;  he  is  out.  of  doors  all  day,  but  timid  and 
alert ;  at  the  least  suspicion  of  danger  he  plunges 
with  a  jerking  of  the  tail,  and  a  somersault 
quicker  than  a  shy  young  rabbit,  into  the  nearest 
hole,  peeping  from  the  ground,  and  keeping  up  a 
feeble  little  cry,  (wish-ton-wish  1)  more  like  the 
notei  of  a  bird  than  a  bark.  If  not  killed  out« 
right,  he  will  manage  to  wiggle  into  his  home. 
The  \  illages  are  generally  on  the  brow  of  a  hill, 
near  a  creek  or  pond,  thus  securing  water  with* 
out  danger  of  drowning.  The  holes,  which  de- 
scend in  a  spiral  form,  must  bo  deep,  and  are 
connected  by  long  galleries,  with  sharp  angles, 
ascents  and  descent",  to  jiuzzle  the  pursuer.  Lieu- 
tenant Pike  had  140  kettles  of  water  poured 
into  one  without  dislodging  the  occupant.  The 
jirecincts  of  each  village  are  always  cleared  of 
grass,  upon  which  the  animals  live,  as  they  rarely 
venture  half  a  mile  from  home.  In  the  winter 
time  they  stop  the  mouth  of  their  burrows,  and 
construct  a  deeper  cell,  where  they  live  till  spring 
appears. 

The  Indians  and  trappers  eat  the  flesh,  declar- 
ing it  to  be  fatter  and  better  than  that  of  the 
squirrel.  If  the  meat  is  exposed  for  a  night  or 
two  to  the  frost,  all  rankness  wi'l  be  corrected. 
In  the  same  hole  are  found  rattlesnakes,  the 
white  burrowing  owl,  tortoises  and  horned  frogs, 
the  owl  often  gratifying  iiis  appetite  by  break- 
ing  oi)en  the  skull  of  a  young  dog,  with  a  smart 
stroke  of  his  beak." 

Biff,  f/ie  Late  Cattle  King  of  the  Plains, 

Had  a  range  150  miles  long,  a  herd  of  26,000 
head,  and  was  called  the  Great  Cattle  King  of  the 
plains,  and  had  the  "  boss  ranohe"  of  this  western 
country.  This  ranche  is  in  northern  Colorado.  It 
begins  at  Julesburg,  on  the  Lnion  Pacifitf  ilail- 
road,  and  extends  to  Greeley,  156  miles  west.  Its 
southern  boundary  is  the  South  Platte  River ;  its 
northern,  the  divide,  rocky  and  bluffy,  just  .south 
of  the  Lodge  Pole  Creek.  It  has  nearly  the  shape 
of  a  right-angled  triangle,  the  right  angle  being 
at  Greeley,  the  base  line  being  the  South  Platte 
River.    The  streams  flowing  through  it  are,  firs^ 


i!!i  'm 


i1  'M 


I 


11 


ill 


I 


KUi 


FMM  PiSCIJ^ie  TQMmiST. 


55 


<.y*i 


j^^ 


^•^M 


^0/j 


f%y-% 


the  river  just  named,  Crow  Creek,  and  other 
small  creeks  and  streams  v  hich  take  their  rise 
in  living  springs,  in  and  near  the  bluffs  of  the 
divide  mentioned,  and  flow  in  a  southerly  direc- 
tion into  the  tiouth  Platte  River.  It  includes 
bottom  and  upland  ranges,  and  has  several 
camps  or  ranches.  The  chief  ranche  is  nearly 
south  of  Sidney,  and  about  forty  miles  from 
Julesburg.  At  this  ranche  there  are  houses, 
sheds,  stables,  and  corrals,  and  more  than  two 
sections  of  land  fenced  in.  All  the  cattle 
bought  by  the  late  Mr.  Iliff  were  rebranded 
and  turned  over  to  him  at  this  place.  Here 
are  the  private  stock  yards,  with  corrals,  chutes, 
pens  and  all  necessary  conveniences  for  handling 
cattle.  It  is  near  the  river,  and  of  course  has 
fine  watering  facilities,  while  from  the  adjoin- 
ing  bottom  lands  plenty  of  hay  may  be  cut 
for  the  use  of  the  horses  employed  in  herd- 
ing.  He  cut  no  hay  for  his  cattle;  they  live 
the  entire  year  on  the  rich  native  grasses  on 
the  range,  and  with  the  exception  of  a  severe 
winter,  now  and  then,  the  percentage  of  loss  is 
not  very  great. 

Mr.  Iliff  was  a  thorough  cattle  man,  and  from 
his  long  experience  had  a  perfect  knowledge  of 
the  business.  He  began  in  18(i0,  and  during  the 
war  had  government  <  >iiti'act8  to  fill,  in  New 
Mexico  and  other  fro  territories.     He  sup- 

Elied  most  of  the  beci  ihe  contractors  who 
uilt  the  Union  Pacific  Kailruiui,  and  brought 
immense  herds  of  cattle  from  Te>  ->  and  the 
Indian  Territory  which  were  drivmi  along  the 
line  of  the  road  to  supply  the  army  of  laborers 
with  beef.  He  had  been  engaged  in  the  stock 
ousiness  in  Kansas,  New  Mexico,  and  in  Col- 
orado, and  thought  that  this  location  was  admir- 
ably adapted  to  it,  if  the  sheep  men  would  onl> 
keep  out.  Cattle  and  sheep  will  not  do  w*^ ' ! 
on  the  same  range  together.  Success  in  either 
requires  separation.  Mr.  Iliff  purchased  and 
owned  more  than  twenty  thousand  acres  of 
the  range  occupied  which,  of  course,  included 
the  choice  springs  and  watering  places  within  its 
limits. 

He  had  more  than  40,000  head  of  cattle,  of 
all  ages,  sizes  and  conditions.  The  number 
of  calves  branded  on  his  ranche  one  year, 
reached  nearly  5,000  head,  and  his  sales  of 
three  and  four-year-old  steers  and  fat  cows, 
reached  nearly  the  same  number.  He  realized 
about  $32  per  head,  net,  on  these  sales.  At 
this  rate,  4,000  head  would  bring  the  snucf  little 
«um  of  $128,000.  To  take  care  of  this  im- 
mense herd,  he  employed  from  twelve  to  thirty- 
five  men  —  very  few,  usually  in  the  winter 
months,  and  the  largest  number  during  the 
"  round  ups  "  in  the  spring.  During  the  ship- 
ping season  of  1875,  he  had  twenty-four  men 
who  were  employed  in  cutting  out  of  his  herd 
the  four-year-old  steers  that  were  ready  for 
market,  sotne  fat  three-year-olds,  and  such  fat 


cows  as  were  no  longer  fit  for  breeding  pur- 
poses. While  engaged  in  this  work,  the  same 
men  gather  the  cows  with  unbranded  calves, 
which  they  put  into  the  corrals  near  by,  and 
after  the  calves  are  branded  they  are  turned 
loose  with  the  herd  again.  By  the  introduc- 
tion of  thorough-bred  Durham  bulls,  his  herd 
was  rapidly  gpraded  up.  In  addition  to  the 
cattle  raised  on  his  ranche,  he  dealt  largely  in 
Texas  and  Indian  cati.d,  and  advertised  for 
20,0C0  head  of  Texas  cattle  to  be  delivered  on 
his  ranche  during  the  driving  months  of  1876. 
These  cattle  must  be  yearlings,  two  and  three- 
year-old  steers,  and  for  them  he  had  to  pay 
$7,  $11  and  $15  per  head,  respectively.  This  is, 
at  least,  10  per  cent,  advance  on  the  prices  paid 
for  the  sami  kind  of  cattle  in  1875,  and  indi- 
cates their  growing  scarcity  in  Texas.  Oregon 
and  Montana  cattle,  are  now  beginning  to  come 
East,  and  100,000  head  were  driven  down  for 
the  season  of  1880  to  various  points. 

Mr.  Iliff  estimated  the  increase  of  cattle  from 
his  home  herd— outside  of  purchases  and  sai^  s— 
to  be  about  70  per  cent,  per  year,  and  aWout 
equally  divided  as  to  gender.  He  did  not  Hi;pa- 
rate  his  bulls  from  the  herd,  but  allowed  them  to 
remain  with  it  the  entire  year.  In  this  part  of 
his  management,  we  believe  he  made  a  mistake, 
as  the  percentage  of  increase  would  be  much 
larger  it  no  calves  were  born  during  the  severe 
win'fr  and  spring  months  of  each  yeai  The 
loss  n  calves  at  these  times  mu»tt  be  very  great. 
Tht  shipping  points  for  his  ranche  were  at  Pine 
'•lu  fs  and  Julesburg,  on  the  Union  Pacific,  and 
at  Deers'  Trail  on  the  Kansas  Pacific.  The 
most  if  his  cattle,  however,  were  shipped  over  the 
first-i    'Htioned  road. 

Lest  any  one  should  come  to  the  conclusion 
thut  this  business  is  all  profit,  and  that  the  ex- 
penses and  losses  do  not  amount  to  much,  let  us 
further  state  that  Mr.  Iliff 's  policy  was  to  keep 
li'  expenses  as  lowas possible,  naving the  keeping 
i  safety  of  his  cattle  constantly  in  view.  In 
875,  the  expenses  of  herding,  cutting  hay  for 
horses,  etc.,  amounted  to  less  than  $15,000.  But 
the  losses  from  thefts  and  death,  some  years,  are 
frightful.  The  winter  of  1871-2  was  very 
severe.  There  were  deep  snows  over  his  range 
that  remained  on  the  ground  a  long  tin-'  ,  -nd 
the  storms  were  incessant.  In  the  midst  oi.  '  .ae 
storms,  Mr.  Iliff  visited  the  ranche,  and  found  his 
cattle  literally  dying  by  thousands.  On  the 
islands  in  South  Platte  River,  he  found  and 
drove  off  into  the  sand-hills  and  bluffs  on  the 
south  side,  after  great  exertion,  some  2,700  head, 
and  of  this  number  less  than  half  were  recovered. 
Their  bleaching  bones  now  whiten  the  plains  in 
the  vicinity  where  they  were  frozen  and  starved, 
to  death,  and  those  finally  recovered  were  found 
ir  two  different  States  and  four  different  Terri* 
tories  in  the  Union.  More  than  $20,000  were 
expended  in  efforts  to  find  them ;  nor  was  this 


6( 


rms  i^siciFw  rotmisr. 


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m¥: 


sjiiii'v 


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il' 


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11' 


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all.  It  was  impossible  to  tell,  for  a  number  of 
years,  how  great  the  loss  had  been.  His  books 
showed  more  than  5,000  head  unaccounted  for. 
No  trace  of  them,  beyond  skeletor",  could  be 
found.  At  last,  in  the  spring  of  187t,  this  num- 
ber was  chirged  to  profit  and  loss  account,  and 
the  books  balanced  tor  a  new  start.  Could  they 
have  been  sold  the  fall  previous,  they  would 
have  averaged  at  least  $18  per  head,  and  at  this 
rate  would  have  amounted  to  $90,000. 

It  will  thus  be  seen  that  the  cattle  business  is 
not  all  profit ;  that  it  is  liable  to  losses  the  same 
as  any  other  busi 
ness.  Taking 
the  years  togeth- 
er, with  ordinary 
care  and  judg- 
ment, the  busi- 
ness will  pay 
large  profits  and 
prove  a  desirable 
investment.  We 
would  not,  how- 
ever, advise 
every  man  to 
undertake  it.  It 
is  a  business 
that  must  be 
learned,  and  to 
succeed  in  it 
men  vaxjoii  have 
experience,  cap- 
ital, and  .a  good 
range.  Mr.  IlifE 
haa  all  of  these, 
and  hence  met 
with  correspond- 
ing success. 
The  26,000 
head  he  had, 
he  thought 
on  an  aver- 
age, were  worth 
lis  per  head. 
This  rate  would 
place  the  capital 
he  has  invested 
in  cattle  at  the 
sum  of  1168,000. 
In  addition  to 
this  he  haa  160 
head  of    horses 


but  with  care  and  good  management  we  see  no 
reason  why  he  should  not,  in  nine  cases  out  of 
ten,  win  every  time.  Let  the  facts  speak  frr 
themselves.  Ordinary  men  can't  raise  a  l\alf 
million  dollars,  every  day,  for  such  an  invest- 
ment, and  if  they  could  command  that  amount, 
vei'y  few  would  desire  a  stock  ranche  and  the 
cattle  business. 

HtUlwhackers. — A  curious  character  of  over- 
land life,  when  the  plains  were  covered  with 
teams,  and  long  trains  of  freight-wagons,  was  the 
bullwhacker.     He  is  in  size  and  shape  usually  of 

very  large  pro- 
portions ;  very 
strong,  long,  un- 
kempt hair,  and 
face  covered 
with  the  stiff  est 
of  beards.  Eight 
or  ten  yoke  of 
oxen  Wire  usu- 
ally attached  to 
each  wagon,  and 
often  two  wag- 
onswere  doubled 


up;    1.  e., 


the 


and  niules,  worth  at  least  110,000,  which  ar«  used, 
principally,  in  herding,  together  with  w;it^ons, 
horses,  fences,  corrals,  sheds,  stables,  mowing- 
machines,  tools  and  implements,  and  the  If.rge 
track  of  land  before  mentioned.  Half  a  mil- 
lion dollars  is  a  low  estimate  to  name  as  tke  ^wtn 
he  had  invested  in  this  business,  and  yet  from  i*'.s 
very  nature  he  was  liable  to  lose  half  of  it  in  the 
next  year.  Like  other  business  ventures,  if  a 
man  goes  into  it,  of  course  he  takes  the  chances, 


TRK  BCLLWHAOKBB  OF  THE  PliAINS. 

three  feet  in  length,  but 


tongue  of  the 
second  wagon 
passed  under  the 
body  of  the  wag- 
on just  before  it, 
and  then  secure- 
ly fastened.  By 
the  side  of  his 
wagon  hang  his 
trusty  &s.e  and 
ready  rifle.  Mid 
on  the  tops  of  the 
wagons  were 
spi?ad  the  red 
blankets  n  s  e  d 
for  their  cover  at 
night.  Of  the 
bullwhacker,  it 
is  said  that  his 
oath  and  his  whip 
are  both  the 
longest  ever 
known.  The 
handle  of  the 
ordinary  whip  is 
not  more  than 
lash,  which  is  of 


in  length,  but  the 
braided  rawhide,  is  seldom  less  than  twenty  feet 
long.  From  the  wooden  handle,  the  lash  swells 
gradually  out  for  about  six  feet,  where  it  is  nearly 
ten  inches  in  circumference  (the  point  called  the 
"  belly  ");  from  here  it  tapers  to  within  a  foot  of 
the  end,  which  terminates  in  the  form  of  a  rib- 
l)on-8haped  thong.  This  is  called  by  some  face- 
tiously a  "  persuader,"  and  under  its  influence  it 
will   make  the  ox-team   progress  at  the   magic 


V'   i| 


rms  fP;§ciFt€  woMmtsw. 


67 


oxen  Wire  usu- 


rate  of  twentjy  miles  per  day.  The  effect  on  a 
refractory  ox  is  quite  forcible.  The  lazy  ox  occa- 
sionally receives  a  reminder  in  the  shape  of  a 
whack  in  the  flank,  that  causes  him  to  double  up 
as  if  seared  with  a  red-hot  iron. 

The  buUwhacker  is  universally  i  jgarded  as  the 
champion  swearer  of  America.  He  is  more  pro- 
fane than  the  mate  of  a  Mississippi  River  packet, 
and  his  own  word  is  good  to  the  effect  that  he 
"  kin  drink  more  whixky."  The  writer  who  heai'd 
this,  says  that  "  accompanying  this  statement 
were  some  of  the  most  astounding  oaths  that  everfdl 
on  the  ear." 

General  Sherman  humorously  tells  a  story  in 
defence  of  the  extremely  profane  mule-driver 
who  kept  his  trains  so  well  closed  up  during-  tlie 
long  marches  of  the  army  under  his  command.  It 
is  to  this  effect :  "  One  of  the  members  of  a 
freighting  firm  in  St.  Louis  desired  to  discourage 
the  continual  blasphemy  of  the  buUwhackers  m 
their  employ.  Orders  were  accordingly  issued 
to  their  train-masters  to  discharge  any  man  that 
should  curse  the  cattle.  The  wagon-masters  were 
selected  more  for  their  piety  than  for  any  exten- 
sive knowledge  of  their  duties  in  the  handling  of 
trains.  The  outfit  had  not  proceeded  more  than 
a  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  before  it  was  stuck 
fast.  A  messenger  was  dispatehed  to  the  firm 
with  the  information  that  the  cattle  would  not 
pull  a  pound  unless  they  were  cursed  as  usual. 
rermisaion  to  do  this  was  requested  and  granted, 
after  which  the  train  proceeded  ta  Salt  Lake,  to 
which  place  good  time  was  made." 

The  bullwhacker  is  asto.iishingly  accurate  with 
his  lash.  One  of  his  favorite  pastimes  is  to  cut  a 
(!oin  from  the  top  of  a  stick  stuck  loosely  into  the 
earth.  If  the  coin  is  knocked  off  without  dis- 
turbing the  stake,  i*^^  ,s  his;  if  the  stake  is  dis- 
turbed, the  thrower  los'  the  value  of  the  coin. 
A  curious  incident  is  tola  of  a  bullwhacker,  not- 
ed for  the  accuracy  with  which  he  throws  his 
lash.  He  bet  a  comrade  a  pint  of  whisky  that 
he  could  cut  the  cloth  on  the  back  of  his  panta- 
loons without  touching  the  skin  beneath.  'J'he 
bet  was  accepted.  The  individual  put  hir..elf 
in  position,  stooping  over  to  give  fair  ch.'nice. 
The  blow  was  delivered  carefully  but  in  earnest, 
and  thereon  ensued  the  tallest  jump  ever  put  on 
record.  The  owner  being  minus  a  portion  of  his 
skin,  as  well  as  a  large  fragment  of  his  breeches, 
and  the  bullwhacker's  sorrowful  cry,  "  Thunder, 
I've  lost  thf  whiiki/." 

C/iap/t.  ', — 387.4  miles  from  Omaha.  Eleva- 
tion ?  702  feet.  It  is  a  side  track  with  section- 
house  Kodr  by.  Trains  meet  and  pass  here,  but 
passenger  trains  do  not  stop  unless  signaled. 

Lodge  Pole — has  an  elevation  oi  o.JOO  feet, 
and  is  396.5  miles  west  of  Omaha.  The  creek 
from  which  this  wtation  is  named,  rises  in  the 
Black  Hills  of  Wyoming,  west  of  Cheyenne,  and 
is  fed  by  springs  and  numiM-ous  small  streams 
near  its  source.    It  generally  has  water  in  its 


channel  the  entire  year.  In  occasional  places  it 
sinks  into  the  sand,  runs  a  distance  under-ground, 
and  then  reappears  on  the  surface  again.  The 
valley  of  the  Lodge  Pole  is  quite  narrow — the 
bluffs  on  either  side  at  times  approaching  near 
the  track.  The  whole  region  of  country  upon 
which  we  have  now  entered,  is  covered  with 
buffalo  grass,  and  affords  both  winter  and  sum- 
mer grazing  for  immense  herds  of  cattle  and 
flocks  of  sheep.  Stockmen  claim  that  both  cattle 
and  sheep  will  do  better  in  this  region  than  far- 
ther east,  for  the  reason  that  the  native  grasses 
are  more  nutritious,  and  that  there  is  less  snow 
in  the  winter. 

Cotton, — 406.5  miles  from  Omaha,  and  4,022 
feet  above  the  sea.  It  is  simply  a  side  track, 
named  in  honor  of  Francis  Colton  of  Galesburg, 
111.,  and  formerly  general  ticket  agent  of  the 
road. 

Sidney — "s  414.2  miles  from  the  Missouri 
River,  and  4,073  feet  above  the  sea.  It  is  the 
end  of  a  sub-division  of  the  road,  and  has  a 
roundhouse  and  machinery  adequate  for  making 
minor  repairs.  The  railroad  reached  and  passed 
here  in  August  1867.  The  rocky  bluffs  which 
jut  up  close  to  the  town,  were  quarried  by  the 
railroad  men,  and  stone  obtained  fr.  various  con- 
struction purposes.  It  is  now  a  regular  eating- 
station,  where  all  passenger  trains  stop  for  break- 
fast and  supper.  The  railroad  hotel  is  kept  by 
J.  B.  Rumsey,  and  passengers  may  be  assured  of 
good  meals,  with  plenty  of  time  to  eat,  as  the 
train  stops  thirty  minutes.  Sidney  is  the  county- 
seat  of  Cheyenne  County,  Neb.  The  military 
post  here  known  as  Sidney  Barracks,  wa.s  laid 
out  in  1867,  and  built  in  January,  1868,  by 
Colonel  Porter.  The  town  has  several  stores, 
hotels,  saloons  and  general  outfitting  establish- 
ments. It  is  the  nearest  railroad  point  to  the 
Black  Hills,  it  being  only  185  miles  by  actual 
measurement  to  Harney's  Peak,  and  the  adjacent 
gold  fields,  over  an  excellent  v.agon  road,  with 
wood  and  water  convenient  of  access.  It  has 
become  a  great  outfitting  depot  for  the  Black 
Hills.  A  daily  stage  lino  and  freight  train  now 
run  regularly,  reaching  Custer  City  in  thirty 
hours,  and  Deadwood  in  forty-eight  hours?.  It 
is  the  point  where  large  quantities  of  military 
and  Indian  supplies  are  sliippt^d  to  the  agen- 
cies and  military  y)osts  adjoining.  It  also  has 
a  weekly  newspaper.  The  Siihcy  Telegraph,  which 
is  quite  an  enterprising  sheet.  The  town  still 
has  the  characteristics  of  a  frontier  place,  and 
not  a  small  nuii^ber  of  roughs  have  died  here 
"with  their  boots  on."  In  December,  1875,  a 
man  was  found  hanging  to  a  telegraph  pole  one 
morning,  who  had  shot  another  in  cold  blood, 
and  without  provocation.  He  was  taken  from 
t'le  jail  and  jailer  by  masked  men  and  strung  up 
as  aforesaid.  The  town  was  begun  about  the 
time  the  railroad  passed  through.  D.  Carrigan, 
now  probate  judge  of  the  county,  and  James  and 


^A 


'/' 


7 


58 


rms  v^ciFic  ro&miST. 


Mi  ■'. 


I  !!■    ,:     li 


iiliii 


.  j.    :, 


V: 


Charles  Moore  being  the  first  settlers.  James 
Moore  was  the  post  trader  here  for  a  long  time. 
He  is  now  dead.  In  the  time  of  the  Pony  Ex- 
press he  r:  vde  the  remarHable  trip  of  280  miles 
m  fourteeu  i  urs  and  three-quarters.  The  town 
has  had  trouble  with  Indians,  and  was  once 
attacked  by  them,  as  related  in  another  place. 
Even  after  the  trains  were  running  regularly,  the 
Indians  would  seek  for  revenge  in  ditching  them 
and  in  killing  all  the  employes  they  could. 
Section-men  always  went  armed,  ready  to  defend 
themselves  in  case  of  attack.  In  April  of  1869, 
the  Indians  attacked  two  section-men  who  had 

fone  to  the  creek  for  water,  and  one  of  them, 
laniel  Davidson,  was  killed — his  body  being  liter- 
ally filled  with  arrows.  Right  north  of  the  town, 
where  the  traveler  can  see  a  small  column  of 
stones,  was  an  old  fort  or  breastwork,  the  re- 
mains of  which  are  still  visible,  which  was 
used  as  a  place  of  defense  in  case  of  Indian 
raids.  A  bridge  across  the  North  Platte  River, 
on  the  road  to  Spotted  Tail's  Agency,  would 
largely  Increase  the  trade  and  importance  of 
the  town.  In  1875,  the  assessed  valuation  of 
Cheyenne  County  was  about  $1,250,000.  There 
are  a  large  number  of  stockmen  in  the  county. 

SeatUiftU  CloHfi  Effects^ — Artists  and  all 
travelers,  as  they  get  nearer  and  nearer  to  the 
summit  of  the  Ebocky  Mountains,  will  often  have 
fine  opportunities  to  see  some  magnificent  cloud 
effects.  The  most  glorious  sunset  ever  witnessed 
by  the  writer,  was  one  beautiful  evening  in  pass- 
ing down  the  line  of  the  Denver  Pacific  Railroad 
from  Cheyenne.  Long's  Peak,  grand  in  its  sub- 
limity of  snow,  was  surrounded  with  a  collection 
of  clouds,  so  poised  that  the  rays  of  the  setting 
sun  showed  us  each  side  of  them.  On  the  hither 
side  the  fleecy  clouds  were  lighted  up  with  the 
grandest  of  crimson  and  golden  colo>s ;  in  their 
midst  opened  little  circular  or  oval  windows, 
which,  letting  light  upon  their  upper  portions, 
seemed  to  be  of  molten  silver ;  while  in  their  depth 
of  deep  azure  blue— more  beautiful  than  we  can  de- 
scribe— there  seemed  to  glow  the  intense  colors 
and  reflections  from  the  bosom  of  a  mountain  lake. 
Every  few  minutes  the  clouds,  at  our  distance  from 
them,  changed  their  position,  and  new  colors, 
forms,  and  rays  came  and  went,  and  when  at  last 
the  sun  itself  dropped  slowly  behind  the  very  point 
of  the  peak,  and  it  shone  out  in  startling  clear- 
ness with  the  grand  display  of  rainbow-colored 
clouds  above ;  the  sight  seemed  like  a  heavenly 
vision.  The  editors  of  the  New  York  and  East- 
ern Editorial  Excursion  Party  of  1875,  who  wit- 
nessed the  scene,  expressed  but  one  sentiment  of 
admiration,  that  it  was  far  the  most  superb 
cloud  and  sunset  scene  ever  witnessed.  Such 
scenes  are  very  frequent,  and  exceedingly  capti- 
vating to  those  who  have  a  true  artist's  eye  and 
appreciation  of  colors  and  effects. 

An  English  traveler  (to  whom  beautiful  sun- 
sets are  unknown)  when  once  traveling  from 


Ogalalla  toward  Laramie,  over  the  plains,  says, 
"  As  we  journeyed,  the  sun  approached  the  hori- 
zon, and  the  sky  and  numerous  clouds  assumed 
columns  of  strange  and  wonderful  beauty.  The 
'  azure  vault '  itself  was  of  all  possible  shades  o 
light  green,  and  also  of  clear  light  blue ;  some  of 
the  clouds  were  of  solid  masses  of  the  deepest 
indigo,  while  a  few  were  black,  some  were  pur- 
ple, and  others  faintly  tinged  with  crimson  and 
gold.  Two  days  before,  I  had  witnessed  cloud 
effects  almost  equally  fine.  There  is  no  monot- 
ony i.i  the  glorious  dawns  or  beautiful  sunsets, 
which  are  the  rule  on  these  elevated  plains,  and 
which  go  far  to  relieve  the  tameness  of  the  land- 
scape. 

"As  evening  approached,  on  my  journey  to 
Laramie,  and  I  neared  my  destination  on  the 
great  mountain  plains,  I  saw  hovering  over  one 
of  the  snow-capped  peaks,  a  richly  colored  cloud, 
so  curious  in  form,  and  withal  so  perfect  that  it 
might  well  have  been  considered  a  miraculous 
omen,  in  the  superstitious  days  of  old.  It  was  a 
most  accurate  representation  of  a  long  waving 
ostrich  plume,  in  varying  tints  of  crimson  and 
purple  and  ^Id ;  I  gazed  on  it  with  pleasure  and 
wonder  till  it  faded  away." 

Sunset  in  a  Storm. — The  Earl  of  Dunraven, 
in  an  account  of  his  travels,  mentions  with  won- 
der these  extraordinary  sunset  scenes:  "Just  be- 
fore sundown,  the  gorgeous  flaunting  streamers 
of  bright  yellow  and  red  that  were  suddenly  shot 
out  across  a  lurid  sky  were  most  wonderful  to 
behold.  If  the  vivid  colors  were  transferred  to 
canvas  with  a  quarter  of  their  real  brilliancy, 
the  eye  would  be  distressed  by  the  representa- 
tion, and  the  artist  accused  of  jross  exaggera- 
tion and  of  straining  after  outrageous  effects. 

"  These  stonny  American  sunsets  are  startling, 
barbaric,  even  savage  in  their  brilliancy  of  tone, 
in  their  profusion  of  color,  in  their  great  streaks 
of  red  and  broad  flashes  of  yellow  fire ;  startling, 
but  never  repulsive  to  the  senses,  or  painful 
to  the  eye.  For  a  time  the  light  fihone  most 
brilliantly  all  over  the  western  hemisphere, 
breaking  through  a  confused  mass  of  dazzling 
purple-edged  clouds,  massed  against  a  glowing, 
burnished  copper  sky,  darting  out  bright  arrows 
through  the  nfts  and  rents,  and  striking  full 
upon  the  mountain  top. 

"  But  not  long  did  tnis  glorious  effulgence  last. 
The  soul  of  the  evening  soon  passed  away ;  as 
the  sun  sank,  the  colors  fled.  The  mountains 
became  of  a  ghastly,  livid  greenish  color,  and  as 
the  faint  rose  light  paled,  faded  slowly  upward 
and  vanished,  it  really  looked  as  though  the  life 
were  ebbing  away,  and  the  dull  gray  death-hue 
spreading  over  the  face  of  a  dying  man." 

Sunnet  Scene  on  Mount  Jrnnhbnrne, — 
The  Earl  of  Dunraven  ascending,  in  the  summer 
of  1874,  the  summit  of  Mt.  Washburne  was  re- 
warded at  sunset  with  a  scene  of  extraordinary 
rnagnificence,  which  he  relates  as  followu ;  "  The 


FMM  9;MCi¥W  TOVMiST. 


59 


rer  the  plains,  says, 
ipproached  the  hori- 
■ous  clouds  assumed 
derful  beauty.  The 
II  possible  shades  o 

light  blue ;  some  of 
isses  of  the  deepest 
ack,  some  were  pur- 
td  with  crimson  and 
tiad  witnessed  cloud 

There  is  no  monot- 

)r  beautiful  sunsets, 

elevated  plains,  and 

;ameness  of  the  land- 

,  on  my  journey  to 
r  destination  on  the 
(V  hovering  over  one 
richly  colored  cloud, 
iial  so  perfect  that  it 
idered  a  miraculous 
[ays  of  old.  It  was  a 
)n  of  a  long  waving 
tin)»  of  crimson  and 
it  with  pleasure  and 

'he  Earl  of  Dunraven, 
,  mentions  with  won- 
set  scenes :  "  Just  be- 
}  flaunting  streamers 
it  were  suddenly  shot 
e  most  wondenul  to 
9  were  transferred  to 
their  real  brilliancy, 
d  by  the  representa- 
d  of  jross  exaggera- 
mtrageous  effects, 
sunsets  are  startling, 
eir  brilliancy  of  tone, 
in  their  great  streaks 
yellow  Are ;  startling, 

senses,  or  painful 
he  light  Rhone  most 
western  hemisphere, 
ed  mass  of  dazzling 

against  a  glowing, 
ng  out  bright  arrows 
ts,  and  striking  full 

orious  effulgence  last. 
x)n  passed  away ;  as 
led.  The  mountains 
rreenish  color,  and  as 
faded  slowly  upward 
sd  as  thoue;n  the  life 

dull  gray  death-hue 

dying  man." 
««/  WaHhbume, — 
aiding,  in  the  summer 
.  Washburne  was  re- 

ene  of  extraordinary 
tes  as  fo!lo>«rh ;  "  The 


sun  was  getting  very  low,  and  the  valleys  were 
already  steeped  in  shade.  To  the  east  all  was 
dark,  but  in  the  western  heavens  long  flaming 
streaks  of  yellow  were  flashing  across  a  lowering 
flky.  The  masses  of  black  clouds  were  glov  ing 
red  with  an  angry  flush.  The  clear  white  1  ight 
of  a  watery  sun  had  changed  into  broad  streaks 
of  flaunting  saffron.  Across  all  the  hemisphere, 
opposed  to  it,  the  setting  orb  was  shaking  out 
the  red  and  yellow  folds  cf  its  banners,  challeng- 
ing the  forces  of  the  storm,  which  was  marshal- 
ing on  the  horizon  its  cloud  warriors  resplend- 
ent in  burnished  gold. 

"  The  sun  sank  behind  a  cloud,  and  I  turned 
away  to  descend;  but  as  we  went,  the  sun, 
though  invisible  to  us,  broke  through  some  hid- 
den rift  in  the  clouds,  and  shono  out  bright  and 
strong,  splashing  its  horizontal  rays  full  against 
the  opposite  slope,  and  deluging  the  \o\7et  por- 
tions of  the  valley  with  a  flocnl  of  intense  cherry- 
colored  lurid  light.  The  hilU;  reddened  as  if 
beat  upon  by  the  full  glare  of  a  great  furnace. 
It  was  a  sight  most  glorious  to  h'^.e.  The  beauty 
of  it  held  us  an^I  forced  us  to  stop.  The  glow 
did  not  gradually  ripen  into  fullness,  but  sud- 
denly, and  in  all  its  intensity,  struck  upon  a 
prominent  ridge,  lighting  up  the  crags  and  cliifs, 
and  even  the  rocks  and  stones,  in  all  their  de- 
tails, and  then  by  degrees  it  extended  and  spread 
on  either  side  oves  the  foot-hills,  bringing  out 
the  projecting  slopes  and  shoulders  from  deep 
gloom  into  clear  light,  and  throwincf  back  the 
valley  into  blackest  shade.  Every'  rock  and 
precipice  seemed  close  at  hand,  and  shone  and 
glowed  with  such  radiance  iua,t  you  could  trace 
the  very  rents  and  crevices  in  the  cliff  faces,  and 
mark  the  pine  trees  clinging  to  the  sides,  while 
in  comparison  the  deep  recesses  of  the  chasms 
and  canons  see.med  to  extend  for  miles  back  into 
dark  shadow.  As  the  sun  sank,  so  rose  the 
light,  rishing  upward,  surging  over  the  hills  in 
a  wavd  of  crimson  mist,  really  beautiful  to  be- 
hold, and  illuminating  the  great  bulk  '  Lhe 
ran^,  while  the  peaks  were  still  darkly  rearing 
(heir  sullen  heads  above  the  tide,  and  the  valleys 
were  all  filled  with  gray  vapors.  At  last  the 
glare  caught  the  mist,  and  in  an  instant  trans- 
formed it  from  gray  cloud  into  a  gauzy,  half- 
transparent  veil,  light,  airy,  delicate  exceed- 
ingly, in  color  like  the  inner  petals  of  the  rose. 
Then,  as  the  sun  dropped  suddenly,  the  light 
flashed  upon  the  summit,  the  peaks  leaped  into 
startling  life,  and  the  darkness  fell." 

BrowHHon. — Simply  a  sirte  tuick.  Elevation 
4,200  feet  above  the  sea.  Distance  \rom  Omaha, 
423.2  miles.  The  station  was  nameo  after  a  for- 
mer general  freight  ageut  of  theUnnn  Pacific. 
From  Sidney,  and  in  r.iis  vicinity,  the  bluffs  are 
I  ugged,  and  look  liKe  fortifications  or  the  old 
(•astles  that  we  re.'^  about.  They  are  simply 
indications  of  the  grand  scenery  which  is  to 
follow. 


Patter. — 433.1  miles  from  Omaha.  Elevation 
4,370  feet.  It  is  a  telegraph  station.  West  of 
Potter  you  cross  the  bed  of  a  dry  creek,  which 
leads  into  the  Lodge  Pole. 

I>lx. — ^Another  side  track,  at  which  pas- 
senger trains  do  not  stop.  There  is  a  fine 
stock  ranche  near  by,  and  the  grazing  in 
this  vicinity  is  excellent.  It  is  442.3  miles 
from  the  eastern  terminus  of  the  road,  with  an 
elevation  of  4,580  feet. 

Antelope. — 451.3  miles  from  Omaha.  Eleva- 
tion, 4,712  feet.  A  telegraph  and  coal  station, 
with  side  tracks  and  section-house.  In  Novem- 
ber, 1875,  the  Indians,  who  have  a  liking  for 
good  and  fast  horses,  equal  to  that  of  Bonner, 
the  Netc  York  Ledger  man,  went  to  the  ranche  of 
Mr.  Jones,  a  Kentuckian,  about  twenty  miles 
south  of  this  station,  and  stole  some  forty  head 
of  blooded  horses  and  mares  which  he  had 
there  for  breeding  purposes.  They  are  supposed 
— believed — to  have  gone  north,  and  if  Uncle 
Sam's  Indian  agents  would  withhold  rations  from 
the  tribe  until  they  were  brought  back,  or  make' 
a  thorough  search  for  them,  they  could  jindoubted- 
ly  be  found.  Many  of  the  animals  were  thorough- 
breds, and  very  valuable.  Here  is  another  viola- 
tion of  the  Siour.  treaty.  Mr.  Jones  will  have  to 
pocket  his  loss,  while  Uncle  Sam  will,  of  course, 
pocket  the  insult.  Antelope  is  the  home  of  some 
old  hunters,  and  if  the  traveler  desires  to  hear 
their  experiencf^"  let  him  stop  a  day  and  inter- 
view Jack  Evans,  who  has  a  ranche  here,  and  Mr. 
Goff,  who  has  been  engaged  in  the  business  some 
fourteen  yeai-s. 

Lantlscape  of  the  Colwcdo  Plains, — 
There  is  a  charm  in  life  on  the  great  plains.  To 
one  who  visits  it  for  the  first  time,  it  seems 
lonely  indeed,  and  yet  it  is  never  wearisome. 

Now  come  great  rolling  uplands  of  enormous 
sweep,  then  boundless  grassy  plains,  and  all 
the  grandeur  of  vast  monotony  and  desolation. 
Sometimes  the  grand  distances  are  broken  by 
rugged  buttes  and  bluffs.  As  they  rise  in  sight, 
the  traveler  is  as  eager  in  his  curiosity  as  the 
sea  voyager  just  catching  his  first  view  oi  the  dis- 
tant shore.  Over  all  these  plains  there  is  a 
sparkling,  enthusiasm-giving  atmosphere,  crisp, 
strong,  magnetic,  and  a  never-failing  breeze; 
even  in  the  hottest  da-s,  or  portions  of  the  day, 
the  air  is  bracing,  and  rarely  ever  is  the  sky  long 
cloudless. 

That  vastness  of  solitude,  boundless  plains, 
and  boundless  sky,  that  stretch  of  blue,  that 
waste  of  brown,  never  a  tree,  river,  bird,  or  ani- 
mal, home  or  life  of  any  nature,  who  can  de- 
scribe the  sensations,  which  are  so  overpowering. 

As  you  approach  the  mountains,  the  Coloraw> 
plains  assume  more  verdure,  as  they  are  better 
watered  by  the  little  streams  from  the  foot-hills, 
or  bedewed  by  the  mountain  showers.    In  sum- 


60 


TMM  ^aCIFIC  rOMtlST. 


ll'W: 


mer  time  the  landscape  is  ^reen,  and  the  plains 
covered  with  flowers,  while  lu  atitniun,  witli  the 
yellow  of  the  prairie  grass,  the  flowers  ever  stay, 
new  ones  coming  as  old  ones  disappear.  The 
sunflower  is  the  most  profuse  of  all  the  species  of 
vegetation  that  spring  up  wherever  the  soil  is 
opened.  For  thousands  of  miles,  wherever  the 
railroad  or  a  wagon  route  has  made  its  way 
across  the  country,  there  spring  up  parallel  rows 
of  the  ever-living  sunflower.  In  the  eastern  por- 
tions of  the  plains  of  Nebraska  and  Kansas,  near 
the  Missouri  River, may  be  seen  square  miles  of 
sunflowers,  7  to  9  feet  high ;  tis  we  travel  farther 
west,  they  gradually  dwmdle  until  they  are,  in 
Colorado,  only  3  to  9  inches  in  height,  the  oddest 
little  plant  in  nature,  yet  perfect  iu  shape  and 
growth. 


years  yet  to  come,  to  be  only  the  grazing-field  of 
thousands  of  bufl'alo  or  herds  of  cattle.  Water 
is  scarce,  irrigation  is  impossible,  rains  uncer- 
tain, and  in  many  parts  the  soil  is  full  of  sod^i 
and  alkali.  The  western  march  of  settlement 
practically  ends  at  the  one  hundredth  meridian 
of  longitude — North  Platte. 

Coytdeti.  —  Pioneers,  Indians  and  drivers, 
unite  in  the  most  thrilling  exclamations  of  their 
detestations  of  this,  the  meanest  of  the  animal 
tribe  that  infest  the  plains.  Just  after  twilight, 
if  you  happen  to  he  encamped  on  the  plains,  you 
will  hear  not  far  off  the  quick  baik  of  a  single 
coyote.  This  is  the  first  call,  the  bugle  cry.  Then 
come  answers,  and  the  pack  of  wolves  assemble 
rapidly ;  and  just  as  darkness  closes  down,  you 
have  but  one  enjoyment  left,  to  listen  to  the  most 


CX»VOTES. 


r'k 


Into  this  vast  area  of  plains,  which  reaches 
from  east  to  west  500  miles,  and  north  to  south 
1,000  miles,  there  can  be  twured  nearly  all  the 
population  of  Europe  and  Asia.  Swallowing  up 
by  the  thousands,  the  plains,  witli  open  mouth, 
wait  with  insatiate  appetite  for  more.  Into  this 
area  can  be  put  the  whole  of  India.  It  is  twice 
as  large  as  Ilindostan,  and  as  large  as  the  whole 
of  the  United  States  east  of  Chicago. 

Agriculture  is  certain  as  far  west  as  the  three 
hundredth  mile  from  the  Missouri  River;  from 
thence  westward,  to  the  immediate  vicinity  of 
the  mountains,  no  crops  can  at  present  be  raised. 
This  reach  of  200  miles  or  more  is,  for  many 


dismal  of  howling  matches.  As  each  new  comer 
arrives  he  is  welcomed  with  a  howl.  Each  howl 
is  short,  and  by  the  band  there  seems  to  be  a 
chosen  few  who  execute  them  in  proper  manner, 
with  all  the  variations.  After  these  few  have 
performed  some  of  their  most  "  striking  airs,"  a 
silence  of  a  few  moments'  duration  follows,  and 
then  the  whole  band  breaks  out  with  the  most  un- 
earthly noises,  which  are  second  to  no  other  noises 
of  plains  and  mountains-  Kit  Carson  once  said  of 
these  howls,  "  that  it  was  only  a  little  dispute  as 
to  which  coyote  had,  as  the  winner  of  the  match, 
the  right  to  take  the  stakes  (steaks)."  A  trav- 
eler says  of  them :    «'  It  is  quite  impossible  to  do 


FMX  ^aciria  FOimiST. 


61 


full  justice  to  this  wolf  music.  There  is  no 
racket  known  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  more 
civilized  sections  of  our  country  which  will  com- 
pare with  it.  All  the  felines  in  the  neighbor- 
hood would  not  make  a  noise  which  would  begin 
to  equal  wolf  music."  Strange  as  it  may  seem, 
the  rough  pioneer  esteems  this  music  his  sweetest 
lullaby,  for  as  one  of  the  old  "  rough  and  readies" 
says:  "  If  any  redskin  should  take  it  under  his 
scalp  to  look  about  camp,  every  cuss  of  them 
coyotes  would  shut  up  his  trap  and  wake  the  fel- 
lows up  with  the  quiet."  So  long  as  the  coyote 
cries  thtire  is  no  danger  from  Indians — the 
moment  ho  ceases,  danger  is  near — so  the  pioneer 
esteems  their  music  his  best  lullaby,  and  their 
bark  his  safety.  Occasionally  the  pack,  toward 
early  morning,  will  make  a  raid  into  the 
traveler's  camp,  and  grab  any  edibles  or  pieces 
left  within  reach;  even  sometimes  seizing  the 
very  haversack  upon  which  the  sleeper's  head 
is  pillowed,  but  seldom  ever  touching  the  per- 
sons of  the  campers.  As  morning  approaches, 
they  retire  to  a  safe  distance  from  camp,  and 
squatted  on  their  haunches  like  dogs,  wait  till 
the  party  leaves. 

The  plains  men  have  an  old  saying,  "  That  the 
coyotes  can  smell  a  Sia'es  feller,  and  then  you 
will  not  see  a  coyote  anywhere  within  sight  of 
camp."  f  he  explanation  for  which  is  supposed 
to  be  as  follows,  given  also  by  the  old  plains  men : 
"  States  fellers  shoots  at  any  live  thing  as 
jumps  in  their  sight,  whether  it  is  any  'count  to 
them  or  no." 

Adumn.  —  A  side  track  457.3  miles  from 
Omaha ;  elevation  4,784  feet.  The  country  here 
is  considerably  broken,  and  betw^an  the  bluffs 
on  either  side  huge  boulders  crop  out. 

BuHlmeU,  —  46-3.2  miles  from  Omaha,  and 
4,860  feet  above  the  sea.  It  is  simply  a  side 
track  with  water  tank.  In  coming  'ip  this  val- 
ley the  railroad  crosses  the  Lodge  Pole  Creek,  or 
its  little  branches,  several  times.  Near  Bushnell 
is  a  trestle  bridge  across  the  creek. 

Hailstorinti, — This  region  of  country  i«  frcr 
quently,  in  summer,  visited  with  hailstorm.?  and 
cloud-bursts.  In  the  summer  of  1875,  a  trF,in  was 
overtaken  by  one  of  these  hailstorms,  and  not  a 
whole  pane  of  glass  was  left  in  the  side  of  the 
cars  toward  the  storm.  The  glass  in  skylights 
on  the  top  of  the  cars  was  broken,  and  many  of 
the  hailstones,  as  large  as  a  man's  fist,  bounded 
tlirough  the  cars  on  the  opposite  side.  The 
wooden  sides  of  the  cars  were  dented,  and  the 
sheet-iron  casing  of  the  engine-boiler  looked  as 
though  it  had  passed  through  a  violent  case  of 
the  small-pox.  When  these  cloud-bursts  occur, 
the  drops  of  rain  seem  as  large  as  walnuts,  and 
come  so  fast  that  the  entire  surface  of  the  ground 
is  covered — the  surplus  water  not  having  time  to 
run  off.  In  such  storms  the  road  is  liable  to 
washouts,  and  great  care  is  necessary  in  the  run- 
ning of  trains  to  avoid  accidents. 


Bushnell  is  the  last  station  in  Nebraska.  Just 
across  the  line,  between  it  and  Wyoming,  comes 
Pine  JUuffs, — 473.2  miles  from  Omana ;  ele- 
vation 5,026  feet.  The  little  station  takes  its 
name  from  the  stunted  pines  along  the  bluffs. 
I'ine  timber  once  was  plenty  here,  but  it  disap- 
peared when  the  road  was  built.  It  is  the  great 
trail  and  crossing  point  for  Indians  passing  from 
the  buifalo  grounds  on  the  Republican  to  Horse 
Creek  and  North  Platte  River.  Was  several 
times  attacked  by  Indians  during  construction  of 
road,  several  were  killed  and  large  amounts  of 
stock  stolen.  It  is  now  the  head-quarters  of 
Judge  Tracy's  cattle  ranche,  and  several  carloads 
of  cattle  are  shipped  each  year.  Muddy  Creek 
is  just  west  of  station,  has  water  most  of  the  time, 
yet  Lodge  Pole  Creek,  beyond  Egbert,  sinks  in 
the  sand.  Water  can  ba  found  in  the  bed  of  the 
stream  by  digging  3  to  9  feet.  This  is  a  telegraph 
station,  with  side  track,  cattle-yards  and  chutes. 

Tr«c|/,— 478.8  miles  from  Omaha ;  elevation 
5,149  feet.  It  is  a  side  track  named  in  honor 
of  Judge  Tracy  of  Chpypnne. 

Effhei't, — 184.4  miles  from  Omaha;  elevation 
5,272  feet.  It  is  a  side  track  with  water  tank. 
Three  miles  south  of  this  side  track  runs  the 
Muddy,  which  has  quite  a  settlement  of  ranche- 
nien.  The  Lodge  Pole  at  this  point  is  still  dry, 
and  the  company  dug  thirty-two  feet  for  the 
water  which  supplies  their  tank.  The  road  here 
leaves  the  main  valley  of  the  Lodge  Pole,  to  the 
right,  and  runs  up  a  branch,  in  which  the  bed  of 
a  creek  is  visible,  but  which  never  has  water  in 
it  except  after  the  cloud-bursts  spoken  of. 

liurnti,—iQ0.7  miles  from  the  Missouri  River, 
with  an  elevation  of  5,428  feet.  The  grade  is 
now  quite  heavy  as  we  are  going  up  on  to  the 
divide  between  the  Lodge  Pole  and  Crow  Creek. 
Burns  is  simply  a  side  track  where  trains  occa- 
sionally meet  and  pass. 

ItiUttflftlef — a  telegraph  station  with  side 
track  and  section-house.  The  place  takes  its  name 
from  a  Mr.  Hill,  who  was  killed  here  by  the  In> 
dians  at  the  time  the  road  was  located.  He 
belonged  to  the  engineer  corps  of  the  road.  The 
company's  well  here,  which  supplies  the  water 
tank,  is  72  feet  deep.  North  and  sou  ;,h  of  this  sta. 
tion  numerous  sheep  ranches  have  i  <een  opened. 
By  looking  straight  west,  up  the  track,  you  can 
here  obtain  the  first  glimpse  of  the  Black  Hills 
of  Wyoming — and  they  will  ?orae  into  plain  view 
as  you  ascend  the  heavy  grade  toward  the  divide. 
Hillsdale  is  .5,.5()1  feet 'above  the  sea,  and  496.4 
miles  from  Omaha.  Notice  the  grade  indicated 
by  the  elevations  as  you  pass  these  stations. 

Atkin»,—TAy2.6  niiles  from  Omaha,  and  5,800 
feet  above  the  sea.  It  is  a  side  track,  simply, 
with  water  tank  and  section-house  near  by.  "The 
well  which  supplies  this  station  with  water  is 
over  200  feet  deep.  Here  the  traveler  obtains  a 
good  view  of  the  Black  Hills  stretching  off  to  the 
right.     Still  up  the  grade  you  go,  reaching  the 


62 


TME  rJCinC  TOURIST. 


t'  ll 


Bummit  of  the  divide  in  the  first  snow  shed  on 
the  line  of  the  road  just  bej'ond 

Archer, — which  is  508  miles  from  the  starting 
place,  with  an  elevation  of  6,000  feet  above  tide- 
water. This  station  is  a  side  track  with  section- 
house  near  by.    A  short  distance  farther,  you 


makes  its  way  through  the  bluffs  off  to  the  left. 
Soon  we  come  to  a  deep  cut  through  the  spur  of 
a  bluff,  passing  which,  we  cross  a  brids^e  over  a. 
dry  ravine,  and  then  continue  up  the  hill  to  the 
"  Magic  City  "  of  the  plains,  called  Cheyenne. 
Lonff*M  Peak. — Travelers  will  notice,  a  fe* 


'y^S,     ■<'^'-r 


LOKO'a  PEAR  FROM  EBTE8  PARK. 


enter  the  shed ;  it  seems  like  passing  through  a 
tonneL  In  the  distance  there  are  -  mountains 
*'to  the  right  of  you,"  and  mountains  "to  the 
left  of  you,  but  we  shall  see  more  of  chem  here- 
after. Leaving  the  snow  shed  we  are  now  on  a 
down  grade  into    Crow    Croek  "Valley,  which 


hours  before  reaching  Cheyenne,  the  snow-clad 
summit  of  this  bold  peak,  rising  above  the  dis- 
tant horizon.  It  is  about  sixty  miles  south-west 
of  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad,  and  the  highest 
mountain  in  northern  Colorado.  The  view  we 
here  give  is  taken  from  Estes  Park ;  a  beautiful 


TMM  Piicmc  Fotmisr. 


08 


little  park  on  ita  north-western  slope,  and  about 
twelve  miles  diHtaut  from  the  summit.  This 
nark  is  about  four  miles  wide,  and  six  miles  long, 
18  well  sheltered,  easy  of  access,  and  beautifully 
covered  with  pine  and  spruce  trees,  scattered 
easily  about  over  the  grassy  surface,  which  gives 
to  it  a  true  park-like  loveliness.  It  is  partially 
occupied  by  a  few  families  who  have  taken  up 
permanent  homesteads,  and  luis  been  for  a  long 
time  an  excellent  pasture  for  large  herds  of  cattle 
which  live  here  the  entire  year.  It  is  also  becom- 
ing quite  a  pleasure  resort,  and  has  many  at- 
tractive features  to  interest  the  health  seeker  and 
tourist.  Excellent  fishing,  in  lovely  little  trout 
streams,  can  be  found  all  over  the  vicinity.  From 
tills  valley  is  the  only  practicable  route  for 
ascending  the  peak.  Ix)ng'8  Peak  is  14,'271  feet 
in  elevation,  and  about  6,;i(K)  feet  above  the  park. 
Its  construction  is  of  the  boldest  and  most  de- 
cided character,  with  great  walls,  deep  canons ; 
and  on  its  sides  there  are  gorges  and  caverns 
among  the  grandest  on  the  continent.  Its  sum- 
mit is  divided  into  two  sharp  crests,  the  western 
one  being  the  highest  and  most  difficult  of  ascent. 
It  is  a  famous  landmark  for  a  stretch  of  country 
of  more  than  a  hundred  miles  from  north  to 
south. 

SuffaZoea.  —  Buffalo  hunting  is  a  pastime 
tourists  can  now  have  little  hope  to  indulge  in. 
Few  or  no  buffaloes  ever  appear  within  sight  of 
the  car  windows  of  the  overland  trains,  and  the 
vast  herds  which  once  roamed  for  thousands  of 
miles  and  continually  up  and  down  the  great 
plain,  are  passing  away,  or  disappearing  from  tLeir 
old  haunts  to  find  some  nook  or  corner  tnore 
quiet  and  secure.  Thousands  of  them  havfi  been 
KiUed  for  commercial  purpc>Fies.  The  hides  are 
afripped  off  and  sold  for  as  low  priccis  as  81.50, 
vhue  the  bones  are  gathered  in  neups  near  the 
ndiroad  ntation  and  freighted  Eastward  to  b& 
Qscid  for  commercial  fertilizers.  In  one  winter 
ills  estimated  that  on  the  lines  of  the  Union 
and  Eaus8.s  Pacific  Bailroad  there  were  killed 
over  100,000  head. 

Astoniahtnent  of  Indians  at  the  Loco- 
motive and  Telegraphs. — ^When  *jhe  first 
locomotiye  was  seen  passing  over  the  plains,  ^»a 
Indian  guide  in  the  employ  of  the  Vni'oed. 
States  exclaimed  with  inexpressible  surpiise, 
"Gt>od  medicine,  good  medicitu.  Look,  look, 
at  the  tu-te"  (toot).  As  he  passed  under  the 
telegraph  wires,  which  then  were  stretching 
fdong  the  Platte,  through  which  the  wind  as  it 
swept  made  the  whirr  and  singing  sound  of  a 
prairie  harp,  this  g^de  heard  the  sound,  and 
direotiy  declared  that  they  were  talking 
"medicines."  This  was  supposed  to  be  the 
creations  of  the  Great  Spirit,  and  evexTthing  of 
supernatural  nature  vraa  "  medicitu." 

The  lAdians  hare  rarely  ever  molested  the 
telegraph  wires  which  span  the  continent. 
BhfSilj  after  the  wires  were  erected,  the  at- 


taches of  tho  telegraph  company  invited  s 
number  of  Indian  chiefs  to  meet  them  at  a 
given  point,  and  from  thence  to  travel,  one 
party  East  and  the  other  West. 

'VVuen  they  had  reached  a  distance  of  100 
miles  apart,  each  party  was  invited  to  dictate 
a  message  to  the  other,  which  was  sent  over  the 
wires.  Then  turning  backward,  they  rodo' 
rapidly  toward  each  other,  and  two  dayslater 
met  and  compared  notes.  They  were  greatly 
astonished,  and  expressed  themsf  Ives  convinced 
that  the  "Great  Spirit"  had  !ttlked  to  them 
with  the  wires.  They  decided  from  that  tiqia 
it  would  be  well  to  avoid  meddling  with  the 
wires. 

Soon  after  a  young  Sioux  Indian  was  deW- 
mined  to  show  that  he  had  no  faith  in  the 
Great  Spirit's  connection  with  the  wires,  so  he 
set  to  work  with  his  hatchet  to  cut  down  one 
of  the  telegraph  poles.  A  severe  thunder- 
storm was  going  on  at  a  distance;  a  charge  of 
electricity  being  taken  up  by  the  wires,  was 
passed  to  the  pole  which  the  Indian  was  cut- 
ting, and  resulted  in  his  instant  death.  After 
that  the  tribe  never  molested  the  telegraph 
agun. 

CHEYENNE. 

"Magic  City  of  the  Plains  »— 516  miles 
from  Omaha;  elevation,  6,041  feet.  Thus  truly 
is  it  named,  for  it  is  at  present  the  most  active 
and  k^tirring  city  on  the  entire  line.  Travelers 
will  here  take  a  dinner  in  comfortable  style  at 
one  of  the  best-kept  hotels  between  the  two 
oceans.  It  is  a  good  place  to  rest  after  a  tire- 
some joamey,  and  it  will  pay  to  stop  a  few 
days  anl  enjoy  the  pure  air  and  genial  sun  in 
this  higU  altitude.  The  hotel  is  owned  by  *he 
railroa<i  company,  and  is  150  feet  long  by  86 
wide,  with  a  wing  25  feet  square.  It  has  an 
eiogant  dining-haU,  around  which  hang  the 
heads  of  antelope,  deer,  elk,  mountain-sheep, 
black-tailed  deer,  bu£Ealo,  etc.,  eJI  nicely  pre- 
served and  looking  very  natural.  It  is  two 
stories  high,  the  upper  floor  being  well  fur- 
nished with  sleeping-rooms  for  guests.  Chey- 
enne is  the  capital  of  Wyoming  and  the  county 
seat  of  Laramie  County.  Chevenne  has  had 
its  nps  and  downs.  Once  very  lively  when  the 
road  was  building,  then  it  fell  dead  and  motion- 
less. Now  it  has  arisen  again,  and  is  the  largest 
town  on  the  railroad  between  Omaha  and  Salt 
Lake  Cil^,  having  a  population  of  fully  4,000, 
and  rapicUy  growing.  There  are  two  causes 
for  this  growth,  first,  the  stock  interests 
which  center  here,  and,  second,  the  recent  gold 
discoveries  in  the  Black  Hills.  It  is  the  termi- 
nus of  the  Cheyenne  Division  of  the  Union 
Pacific  Bailway,  and  of  the  Colorado  Division 
of  the  Union  Pacific  Bailway,  giving  two  routes 
to  Colorado  and  New  Mexico.  During  the  last 
few  years  there  has  been  a  large  increase  in  the 


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Grmanont  buildinps  of  tho  city.  In  1S75  tlio 
ter-Oceon  Hotel  wa't  completod— a  fino  brick 
Btructnro  tliroo  Htoric >  hign,  and  othci'  lurpfo 
and  elegant  brick  blocks,  with  iron  and  glass 
fronts.  In  proportion  to  its  population,  Clioy- 
enuo  has  more  elegant  and  Bubstantial  Imsincss 
houses  than  almost  any  other  Western  city.  Tho 
town  has  a  fino  conrt-houso  and  jail,  which  cost 
$40,001),  a  largo_ public-school  building,  a  good 
city  hall,  a  brick  opera-house,  and  a  i)alatial 
club-houpe  costing  some  82.'3,00().  This  is  a 
wonderful  chango  for  a  placo  known  tho  world 
over  by  its  fearful  sobriquet  of  •*  HoU  on 
Wheels. "  CHiurches  have  como  whero  gamblers 
onca  reigned;  and  in  five  years  as  many  edifices 
for  r.'li^ous  purposes  havo  been  erected. 
The  Episcopalians,  Methodists,  Prosbyterians, 
Congrngationalists,  Baptists  and  Catholics, 
have  all  comfortable  church  buildings.  Tho 
Bohool  accommodations,  owing  to  the  rapid 
growth  of  the  city,  havo  recently  boon  en- 
larged. At  first  eight  tho  ti-avclcr  would 
naturally  inquire,  what  thcra  was  to  build 
and  sustain  a  town  here  ?  Tho  soil  v\  not  pro- 
lific, nor  is  the  country  around  it.  Crow  Creok 
bottom  is  quite  narrow,  and  ia  tho  most  favor- 
able seasons,  by  irrigation,  "garden  truck" 
may  bo  raised,  but  beyond  this  everything  looks 
barren  and  desolate.  Tho  soil  has  a  reddish 
appearance,  and  appears  to  consist  of  decom- 
posed granite  underlaid  in  tho  valleys  with 
sand,  and  on  tho  uplands  with  rock.  In  fact, 
a  man  who  attempts  to  farm  it  for  a  living  in 
this  region  of  the  counti-y  ia  simply  foolinp 
away  his  time. 

Stock  JutereHts. — ""'.'ho  rich  nutritious  grass- 
es with  which  tho  great  plains  are  covereil  oro 
here  found  in  all  their  excellence,  and  tho  largo 
territory  east  of  the  baso  of  tho  Block  IIUls, 
north  as  for  as  tho  North  Flatto  Bivcr,  and 
south  to  Va3  Gulf  of  Mexico,  ia  now  sustaining 
millions  of  slieep  and  cattle.  Cheyenne  is  lo- 
cated in  the  midst  of  one  of  tho  best  sections  of 
this  territory,  and  all  around  it  oi-e  tlie  ranches 
of  stockmen — men  engaged  in  growing  cattle, 
sheep,  horses  and  mules  for  market.  With  tho 
exception  of  sheep,  no  hay  is  cut  for  these  ani- 
mals except  for  those  kept  up  for  uso.  Winter 
and  summer  they  thrive  and  fatten  upon  nothing 
but  the  nativo  grasses.  Cheyenne  is  th<3  central 
and  natural  trading-point  for  thoso  x-ancliri'^n 
and  stock-growers.  Another  largo  and  valuable 
element  of  its  prosperity  is  tho  railroad  trade — 
the  company  having  Iioro  quite  extensivo 
machine  anil  repair  shops,  with  a  commodious 
round-house.  Hunting  and  exploring  poi-ties 
also   supply   themselves  with  outfits  at  this 

Elaoe,  ana  immense  quantities  of  milituy  and 
adiaa  supplies  also  pass  through  hero  for  the 
posts  and  Indian  agcncios  north. 

To  giv3  an  idea  of  the  stock  business  which 
Oenijrs  hero,  and  its  rapid  increase,  let  us  state 


tliat  370  cars  of  cattle  were  shipped  in  1874,  which 
represent  7,500  hcaiL  In  1S75,  tho  shipments 
increased  to  525  cars,  or  10,5UO  head;  in  1880,  tu 
1,000  cars,  or  about  20,(X)0head,  with  prospects 
for  a  largo  incrcasu  in  1881  and  future  years. 
It  mav  bo  well  to  state  here,  the  shipments 
from  Julesburg,  Sidney,  Ogallala  Pine  Bluffs, 
and  other  points  in  this  grazing  belt  of  the 
country,  in  18S0  aggregated  about  50,000  head, 
in  aildition  to  tho  Cheyenne  shipments.  , 

This  statement  does  not  include  the  cattle 
marketed  at  home  or  supplied  to  tho  Indian 
agencies  in  the  North.  One  hundred  thousand 
head  of  cattle,  one  hundred  and  twenty-five 
thousand  sheep,  and  six  thousand  horses  and 
mules  are  the  estimated  number  owned  and 
held  in  Laramie  County  alone.  The  develop- 
ment of  tho  cattle  and  stock  interests  of  this 
vast  upland  region  is  something  never  thought 
of,  nor  entered  the  heads  of  the  projectors  of 
the  railroad.  In  1867,  when  the  railroad  first 
oi-rived,  tliere  were  not  probably  a  hundred  head 
of  all  kinds  owned  in  the  whole  territory,  out- 
side of  thoso  belonging  to  contractors  and  stage 
lines.  Now  it  is  a  leading  interest,  and  repre- 
sents millions  of  dollars.  Like  all  ulh?**  frontier 
towns,  Cheyenne  lias  a  history,  and  it  is  similar 
to  that  of  others.  It  was  once  a  very  fast  town, 
and  it  ic  not  very  slow  now.  On  the  1st  day  of 
July,  1867,  it  had  one  house  built  and  owned 
by  Judge  J.  B.  Whitehead,  on  Eddy  Street, 
between  Sixteenth  and  Seventeenth.  That 
house  stands  to-day,  and  is  known  as  the 
Whitehead  block.  It  was  buUt  of  logs  and 
smoothly  plastered  ovdbside  and  in. 

Hoii(fh  TimcH, — When  it  was  known  that 
this  was  to  be  the  winter  terminus  of  the  road, 
there  was  a  grand  hegira  of  roughs,  gamblers 
and  prostitutes  from  Julesburg  and  other 
places  down  tho  road  to  this  point,  and  in  the 
fall  of  that  year  and  winter  of  '68,  Cheyenne 
contained  6,000  inhabitants.  Habitations 
sprang  up  like  mushrooms.  They  were  of 
every  conceivable  character,  and  some  were 
simply  holes  in  the  ground,  otherwise  termed 
••  dag-outs."  Town-lots  were  sold  at  fabulous 
prices.  Every  nation  on  the  globe,  nearly,  was 
represented  here.  Tho  principal  pastimes  were 
gambling,  drinking  villainous  rot-gut  whisky, 
and  shooting.  Shooting  scrapes  were  an  every- 
day occurrence.  Stealing  anything  from  any- 
Ixxly  was  the  natural  habit  of  tlie  thieving 
roughs.  Knock-downs  and  robberies  were 
daily  and  nightly  amusements.  But  these 
things  hod  to  como  to  an  end,  and  their  perpe- 
trators, some  of  them,  to  a  rope's  end.  The 
more  respectable  portion  of  the  citizens  be- 
came weary  of  the  depredations  on  pro^rtv 
and  life.  Vigilance  committees  were  organized, 
and  "Judge  Lynch"  held  court,  from  which 
there  were  neither  appeals  nor  stay  of  execu- 
tions.   Juries  never  disagreed,  nor  were  there 


r'.' 


66 


TMM  Fm€lFi€  WQVmmT. 


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vexatious  delays  and  motions  for  a  new  trial. 
Witnesses  were  unnecessary ,  and  demurrers  ol 
no  account.  Nor  would  "the  insanity  dodge  " 
avail.  The  victioia  were  known  and  * '  spotted  " 
beforehand,  the  judgments  of  the  courts  wf>^ 
unerring  and  generally  righteous.  No  gallows 
were  erected,  because  telegraph  poles  and  the 
railroad  bridge  across  Crow  Creek  were  con- 
venient o?  access.  Whea  Cheyenne  was  only 
six  months  old,  bo  frequent  were  the  murders 
aui^  robberies,  and  the  city  authorities  bo  pow- 
erless, that  a  vigilance  committee  was  organized. 
The  first  knowledge  of  its  existence  happened 
thus:  Three  men  were  arrested  on  the  10th 
day  of  January,  1868,  iiharged  with  haying 
stolen  3900.  They  were  put  under  bonds  to 
appear  before  the  court  on  the  14th  of  the  same 
month.  On  the  morning  of  the  day  after  they 
were  arrested,  they  were  found  ouEddy  Street, 
tied  together,  wfuk'ng  abreast,  with  a  lar-yfe 
piece  of  canvau  attached  to  them,  on  which  the 
following  words  were  conspicuous:  "$900 
stole;  ^500  returned;  thieves— F.  .SV.  Chir.  W. 
Grier^  E.  D.  Brownvdle.  City  autHotitirtt 
please  not  inter/ere  until  10  o'clock  A.  M.  Next 
case  goes  ufi  a  tree.  Bewire  of  Vigilance  (  om- 
mittee. "  Within  one  year atterits  organization, 
iie  •' vigilantett "  had  hung  and  shot  twelve 
desperadoes  and  sent  five  to  the  penitentiary. 
Since  that  time  Cheyenne  haa  been  ruled  by  the 
law-and-order  party,  though  even  these  may 
seem  rather  lax  to  Eastern  people  not  accus- 
tomed to  the  manners  and  customs  of  tlie  fron- 
tier.   Yet  the  people  enjoy  "  peace. " 

On  the  13th  day  oi  November,  1867,  the 
track-layers  reached  the  city  limits,  and  on  the 
14th  the  first  passenger  train  lU'ri/cd.  The 
arrival  of  the  tnvck-layers  was  greeted  with 
music,  a  display  of  bunting,  while  the  inhabit- 
ants turm^d  out  en  masse  to  meet  them.  Ou 
the  14th  an  enthusiastio  mwtiug  of  citizens 
wea  held  to  extend  a  public  greeting  to  the 
railroad  officials  who  had  arrived  on  tho  first 
train,,  among  whom  w ore  Sidney  Dilloii,  Esq., 
now  president  of  the  company,  and  General 
Casement  of  Ohio,  the  champion  tiBok-layer 
of  the  continent. 

The  first  city  government  was  organized 
by  the  election  of  officers,  on  the  lOtb  of 
August,  1867,  The  first  iiew»;>aper  was  issued 
on  the  lS)th  of  Beptember,  called  the  Chey- 
:.tn«  Lender,  antl  has  maintained  its  exist- 
once  ever  Kia»?e — publishing  daily  and  weekly 
(iditions.  Other  papers  have  since  been  startccl, 
but  they  were  ehort-lived,  until  the  publication 
of  the  Cheyenne  Daily  News,  whic  .  is  a  spicy 
little  daily.  As  the  town  is  now  able  to  sup- 
port two  papers,  the  News  (merged  into  the 
Daily  6««)  will  continue  to  flourisli. 

Cheyeunc  is  well  laid  out,  with  broad  streets 
at  iright  angles  to  the  railroad,  and  has  an 
abundant  supply  of  pure  water.     Irrigating 


ditches  run  through  the  streets.  A  ditch  was 
dug  from  CroAV  Creek  to  some  natural  "  liol- 
lows,"  or  reservoirs  north  of  the  town,  which 
form  beautiful  littlo  lakes.  From  these  tlio 
waier  for  the  streets  is  taken  by  ditches.  As  a 
result,  trees  nnd  shrubbory  will  soon  orname.:* 
tJie  streets  and  yards  of  the  city,  which  will 
greajly  atld  to  its  attractiveness  and  boauty. 
A  tine  system  of  water  works  has  been  con- 
structed. There  are  a  few  local  manufactories 
already  in  existence,  and  more  will  follow,  and 
on  a  larger  scale. 

Precious  /Stones. — In  the  adjacent  moun- 
tains, on  the  hills  and  blufls  near  by,  ant 
in  the  valleys  of  tho  streams  in  this  vicinity, 
a  large  number  of  curious  and  i^recious 
stones,  gims  rich  and  rare,  have  been  found. 
They  are  very  plenty  in  their  natural  state, 
their  chic  f  vaJiie  being  in  the  cost  of  cut- 
ting by  I  lapidary  and  mounting  by  a  jew- 
eler. In  t  le  immediate  neighborhood  of  Chej'- 
enne  the  mellowing  are  found:  Moss-agates,  lu 
great  r/rofusion;  topaz,  in  colors;  garnet  or 
mouritainruby:  they  are  usiially  found  in  the 
litiie  heaps  of  sand  thrown  up  by  ants:  opals 
variegated,  rare  as  yet,  and  valuable;  potrifac- 
tions  of  wood  and  shells,  which,  when  cut, 
polishe  land  mounted,  aresplendid;  amethysts, 
onvx,  black  and  white,  for  cameos  and  jasper. 
All  of  these  have  been  fc  ind  in  this  vicinity, 
though  BCrje  are  rare.  The  most  beautiful 
moss-agates  are  foxmd  about  half-way  to  Fort 
Laramie,  on  Chugwater  Creek.  Messrs.  Joslyn 
&  Park,  an  old  and  reliable  firm  of  manufac- 
'uriug  jewelers,  in  both  Cheyenne  and  Salt 
Lake  Oity,  have  ma<le  this  business  a  specialty, 
and  possess  the  krgest  and  finest  collecliun  of 
stones  in  the  country.  Some  of  them  are  ex- 
ceedingly beautiful.  Fine  specimens  of  petri- 
fied palm-wood  may  be  seen  at  their  store. 
They  are  both  beautiful  and  rare.  Tho  fact 
that  pf^trified  palra-wood  and  petrified  bonnsof 
the  rhinoceros  Lavo  been  found  in  this  terri- 
tory, shows  that  some  six  million  yours  a':!^o — 
comparatively  recent — tiioro  was  a  tropical 
climate  in  this  region  of  the  country,  when  the 
palm  flourished  in  luxuriance,  and  the  rhino- 
ceros sported  in  the  warm  streams  or  cavorted 
around  on  their  sniiay  banks. 

J'fospei'^H, — At  ])resent,  tho  greatest  cause 
of  the  growth  and  prosperity  of  Cheyenne  is 
the  discovery  of  gold  m  the  Black  Hills  of 
Dakota.  This  cause  will  lost  until,  if  t'mt 
country  will  warrant  it,  a  railroad  is  built 
there.  The  discoverie.-i  of  gold  soem  to  bo  ex- 
tensive and  inexhaustive,  and  the  bnildiiio;  of 
a  railroad  from  some  pointherc oron  V.io  Union 
Pacific  or  Missouri  River  will  rapidly  follow. 
The  Colorado  Division  of  the  Union  Pacific 
llailway  gives  to  Cheyenne  very  fi.vttriring 
pvospects,  and  its  businoHs  men  are  reaping  a 
rich   haxvept   from   their  investments.     Tho 


treets.  A  ditch  was 
some  natural  "hol- 
of  tha  town,  which 
s.  From  tlieso  tho 
jn  by  ditches.  As  a 
r  will  Boon  ornament 
the  city,  which  will 
iivcncss  Rn.l  boauty. 
orka  has  boen  con- 
local  manufactories 
lore  will  follow,  and 

the  adjacent  monn- 
blufla  near  by,  anc 
ima  in  this  vicinity, 
•ious  an«l  precious 
0,  havo  been  found, 
their  natural  state, 
in  the  cost  of  cut- 
mounting  by  a  jew- 
ighborliood  of  Chey- 
lud:  Moss-agates,  m 
a  colors;  garnet  or 
isually  found  in  tho 
'n  up  by  ants:  opa'.(} 
1  valuable;  potrrac- 
,  which,  when  cut, 
splendid;  amethysts, 
f  cameos  bnd  ja8j)er. 
and  in  this  vicinity, 
Ihe  most  beautiful 
ut  half-way  to  Fort 
i^ok.  Messrs.  Joslyn 
ble  firm  of  manufac- 
Gheyeuno  and  Salt 
business  a  specialty, 
'  finest  coUecliua  of 
me  of  them  are  ex- 
specimens  of  petri- 
300tt  at  their  store, 
and  rare.  Tho  fact 
nd  petrified  bonosof 
found  in  this  torri- 
c  million  yewxa  a^o— 
ro  was  a  tropical 
le  country,  when  tho 
iinoe,  and  tho  rhino- 
sti-eams  or  cavorted 
iks. 

tho  greatest  causo 

rity  of  Cheyemne  is 

the  Black  Hills  of 

lout  until,   if   that 

a  railroad  is  built 

jjold  Si'em  to  bo  cx- 

and  the  buildiii':?  of 

,here  or  on  tlio  Union 

Avill  rapidly  follow. 

f  tho  Union  Pacific 

une   very  fi.vttrtrinf? 

H  men  are  reaping  a 

investments.     Tho 


SCENES  IN  THE  BLACK  HILU. 
1.— Qolden  P»rk.    2,— OenerieTi  Pvk.    8.— Custer  Park.    4.— LimMtnn*  Pmk.    B.— tfnrney'ii  Parte. 


PHP 


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X  w 

'       i 

fi  ■ 

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r 

r".     ;" 

68 


FMM  Pi^mww  'ffoummw. 


opening  of  Nortlhiem  Wyomia'?  fcj  Bottloment, 
the  development  of  the  vast  uixnoral  rjsources 
of  the  territory,  and  the  coatiuuod  pro^parity 
of  her  stock  iatoroste,  will  give  to  the  "  Magics 
City  of  the  Plains  "  the  trade,  growth  and  in- 
fluenoe  wliioh  her  location  damands. 

JHealth.~A»  a  resort  for  health-saokor.s, 
Cheyenne  has  supdrioi*  a  I  /.lu  ta<;o8.  It  i  *  u  j  :)  u  b 
a  thousand  faethighor  tU:\a  Denver,  wlMi  aa 
atmosphere  not  oiuy  rai'oiiiji  bat  dry.  It  lias 
good  hotels  amd  livery  aouauaiuodtition').  Ponies 
are  cheap,  and  invalids  c^a  purchiiae  th:)m  and 
ride  over  tha  hills  and  dalm  at  pL>Asure.  Tiierj 
is  also  an  abaadanoe  of  gAim  iu  the  vicinity — 
antelope,  rabbits,  daar,  eta.  A  bear  woi:^liingf 
over  1,5D3  pi.i » Is  wai  kllbd  nearlura  in  iS7j. 
Its  skin  ha^  bJJO  prtjsarvej,  and  tae  bjar  ha<t 
been  moaatad  in  gjod  sha;  j.  Frequent  oxsjur- 
sions  can  also  ba  taken  i  >  tha  warm  summ jr 
weather  to  Fort  Laramia  Oh^yonnj  Pass  and 
other  places,  which  will  expaai  thj  lungs  aad 
invigorate  the  body.  ThJ  results  of  sdvorai 
Tears'  obsarvations  at  the  United  SUtJS  8igaal 
Station  here  show  that  the  tsmporatnro  is  morj 
even,  takincf  the  years  t^^eth^r,  than  iu  many 
places  East  or  on  the  Pa^iflj  Coast  Thj  hot- 
test days  do  not  equal  thosj  which  frequontly 
occur  in  tha  East,  and  in  th  j  summer  months 
the  ni,o;Ii^3  ara  djUoionsly  cool,  assuring  the  in- 
valid g3.)d  sleep  under  plenty  of  blankets.  Al- 
though Cheyenne  is  a  good  place  to  sleep,  yet 
the  paople  are  wide-awake  and  '^owly"  nights. 

Rapidltu  of  BusIw-hh  at  C'teuetuie.  - 
On  the  221  of  July,  1867,  the  first  Tots  were 
offered  for  sale  by  the  Uniou  Pacihc  Hailroad 
Company  at  Cheyenne — OJby  I'ii  feet  for  $i5U. 
Thirty  days  after  those  lots  sold  for  91, 000  each, 
and  in  two  to  three  months  thereafter,  the  same 
lots  werj  a^^oin  resold  at  I|2,OjO  to  82,500.  On 
the  15th  of  July,  1S67,  there  was  but  one  house 
at  Cheyenne.  Six  months  thereafter  there  were 
no  less  than  /hreg  thous  md.  The  government 
freight  which  was  transported  over  the  plains 
to  Cheyenne  from  November,  1867,  to  February, 
1868,  four  months,  amounted  to  6,000  tons,  and 
filled  twelve  large  warehouses,  and  for  a  long 
time  subsequently  averaged  15,000,000  to  20,- 
000,000  pounds  annually. 

During  the  fall  and  winter,  there  were  three 
forwarding  companies  whose  business  in  trans- 
porting goods,  exclusive  of  government  sup- 
Slies,  averaged  6,000,000  pounds  per  month, 
tores  were  erected  with  marvelous  rapidity. 
One  firm  constructed  an  entire  stori),  twenty-five 
bv  fifty -five  feet,  qxiite  substantial,  in  just  forty- 
eight  nours;  three  hundred  firms  were  in  opera- 
tion that  winter,  doing  mostly  a  wholesale 
bluiness;  of  this  numbeor,  over  seventy  made 
sales  of  over  810,000  per  month  each,  and  with 
some  firms  salea  reached  over  930,000  per 
month. 
The  first  postK>ffloe  was  eatablished  October 


30,  1807;  salary  81.00  per  month.  In  two 
mouths  the  United  States  mails  had  increased 
so  enormously  as  to  avei»go  2,600  letters  por 
day,  and  in  two  mouths  moi'o  this  wa'i  doubled, 
and  salary  increased  to  82,000  per  year. 
Though  busiauss  declined  us  soon  as  the  termin- 
us of  the  roail  was  moved,  yet  it  now  has  a  solid 
buHiness.  The  population  in  187'J  is  about 
6,0  J  J,  aad  tiiero  Wiis  invested  in  new  buildings, 
ia  tUii  single  year  of  1 875,  no  less  than  8130,0()0. 

r.ic  BUuih  Hi'ls  Gold  DlHcoveriea. 

For  several  years  the  impression  has  obtained 
that  there  was  gold  ia  tho  Black  Hills  of 
Dakota,  and  every  exploration  under  tbc  aus- 
l>ic33  of  the  goverument  hob  tended  to  euoour- 
a^3  and  strengthen  this  impression.  In  1860, 
Colonel  Bullusk,  now  a  resident  of  Cheyenne, 
was  an  Indiaa  agent  and  troc'er  where  Fort 
Lai'amie  now  stands.  He  saw  a  squaw  in  hia 
storo  one  day  with  something  in  her  moutli. 
He  said,  "L'jt  me  see  that."  She  gave  it  to 
him,  and  it  proved  to  be  a  nugget  of  gold 
worth  about  throe  dollars.  He  said,  *'Qive 
that  to  me."  She  told  him  she  would  for  some 
raisins  and  candy.  These  he  gave  her,  and 
afterwards  gave  her  coffee  and  sugar  to  its  full 
value.  Ha  showed  tiie  gold  to  his  interpreter, 
and  requested  him,  if  possible,  to  find  out 
Avhcro  it  o  me  from.  The  interpreter  did  his 
bast,  bii^  ..uo  squaw  would  only  say  that  it  was 
picked  up  in  the  bed  of  a  creek,  and  that  the 
Indians  would  kill  her  if  she  told  where  it 
was.  During  his  long  experience  as  a  trader 
with  the  luiUans,  Colonel  Bullock  frequently 
saw  small  nuggets  of  gold,  but  could  never 
find  out  where  the  Indians  obtained  them,  and 
the  inferences  he  drew  from  all  ^e  information 
he  could  obtain  were  to  the  effect  Uutt  the 
Bear  Lodge  country,  nearly  north  of  the 
In^an  Kara  mountain,  was  tne  region  where 
tills  gold  came  from.  According  to  the  most 
recent  information  on  the  subject,  the  eastern 
boundary  line  of  Wyoming  strikes  the  Black 
Hills  nearly  in  the  center — tliat  about  one-half 
are  in  Dakota  and  the  other  half  in  Wyoming. 
Harney's  Peak  and  Dodge's  Peak  are  in  the 
former,  while  the  Inyan  Kara  and  Bear  Lodge 
Mountains  are  in  the  latter  territory. 

The  Black  Hills  are  mainly  confined  to  a 
region  of  territory  lying  between  tibe  forks  of 
the  Cheyenne  Biver.  In  addition  to  the  gnloh 
and  placer  diggings,  alreat^y  discovered,  there 
have  been  a  few  discoveries  of  what  appear  to 
be  rich  quartz  lodes  of  gold  and  veins  ofsilver. 
This  region  is  about  one  hundred  miles  long 
and  eightv  miles  wide.  French  Creek,  Spring 
Creek,  Rapid  Creek,  Box-elder  Cieek,  Elk 
Creek,  and  others,  head  in  these  hills,  and 
flow  mainly  in  an  eastern  direction,  emptying 
into  the  south  fork  of  the  Cheyenne.  The 
north  fork  seems  to  hug  the  hills  pretty  doeely 


69 


{  Discoveries, 


wiih  small  creeks  and  sixeams,  yet  unexplored, 
heading  in  the  mountains  and  flowing  into  it. 
The  north  fork  heads  in  Pumpkin  Butte,  a 
morjitain  a  little  northwest  of  Fort  Fetterman, 
on  the  North  Platte  River.  West  of  the  north- 
cm  portion  of  the  Black  Hills,  there  are  sev- 
orol  ranges  of  mountains,  and  several  streams 
which  flow  north  into  the  Yellowstone  River. 
Ail  accoants  of  this  region  of  country,  as  far 
west  as  the  Big  Horn  Motintain,  unite  in  the 
report  of  its  rich  mineral  character. 

How  to  Get  to  tlie  Black  Hills. — ^Within 
the  past  years  of  1877  tu  lti8U,  there  have  been 
opened  three 
distinct  routes 
to  the  Black 
Hills,  and  it  ia 
now  easy  of  ac- 
cess. The  prin- 
cipal rout-e  is 
via  the  Union 
Pacific  Railroad 
and  stage  line 
from  Sidney. 
A  longer  route 
is  oocasioually 
used  by  steam- 
ers up  the  Mis- 
souri River  to 
Bioux.  City, 
Yankton  and 
Port  Pierrvi, 
end  thence  by 
wagon  across 
the  plains  and 
"  bad  lands"  oi 
Dakota.  This 
route  is  long 
and  circuitous, 
with  not  as 
good  wood, 
water  or  graz- 
ing  as  the 
southern  route. 
From  Cheyenne 
there  is  a  good 
natural  road, 
which  runs  to 
Fort  Laramie,  a 
distance  of  ninety  miles,  over  which  the  United 
States  mails  have  been  carrieil  for  umuy  years. 
It  passes  through  a  country  with  good  ranches 
at  convenient  distances  apart.  From  Fort 
Laramie  to  Custer  and  Beadwootl  City  there  is 
a  good  wagon  road,  which  has  recently  been 
shortened  si^ty  miles,  so  tliat  the  entire  dis- 
tances are  as  follows: — 

Cheyenne  to  Fort  Laramie,  90  miles;  to  Cus- 
ter City,  210  miles;  HiU  City,  228  mUes; 
Golden  C.'ty,  268  miles;  Rapid  City,  2C0  miles; 
Rochford,  240  miles;  Deftdwood,  275  miles; 
Crook  City,  287  miles. 


AONES  PARK, 


The  Sidney  and  Black  Hills  Stage  line  now 
runs  regularity  daily  trips  over  the  road  with  a 
superior  outht  for  transportation  of  all  classes 
of  passengers.  Hitherto  the  Cheyenne  route 
has  been  the  principal  one  since  it  has  been 
the  depot  of  supplies.  It  is  the  route  used  by 
the  Govomment  Supply  trains,  is  in  the  iirox- 
imity  of  four  government  military  foi-ts  and 
stations,  and  along  the  entire  route  there  is  an 
ample  supply  of  wood,  water  and  grain.  It  is 
also  the  line  of  the  telegraph  to  the  Black 
Hills,  which  connects  Dead  wood  and  Cheyenne. 
The  time  occupied  iu  stage  travel  to  the  prin- 
cipal places  of 
the  Black  Hills 
is  from  forty- 
eight  to  sixty 
hours. 

Sidney  has 
also  l)ecome  a 
large  outfitting 
point,  and  there 
IS  now  invested 
nearly  $100,- 
000  capital  in 
transportation, 
equipments  for 
passengers  and 
freight  to  the 
Black  Hills 
mines. 

Stages  leave 
Sidney  every 
morning  at  9 
o'clock,  and 
make  the  dis- 
tance in  the  fol- 
lowing time: — 
RodCloud 
Agency  in 
twenty  hours; 
Buffalo  Gap 
^the  point  of 
intersection 
witli  stage  for 
Custer,  thirty 
mUes  West)  in 
thirty  hours, 
and  reaches  the 
entire  distance  to  Deadwood  in  forty-eight  to 
sixty  hours. 

By  the  Sidney  route  the  distances  are  as  fol- 
lows: 

To  Red  Cloud  Agency,  109  miles;  Buffalo 
Gap,  171  mUes;  French  Creek,  184  miles;  Bat- 
tle Creek,  196  miles;  Rapid  River,  214  miles; 
Spring  Valley,  228  mUes;  Crook  City,  253 miles; 
Deadwood,  265  miles.  The  distance  by  the 
Sidney  route  is  considerably  less  than  by  any 
other. 

Itesult  of  the  Opening  of  the  Black 
Hills, — During  the  season  of  1880,  Co  yield 


—BLACK  RILLS. 


n-T^' 


70 


ii  i 


vt    ^ 


of  the  gold  mines  was  ovei  $3,000,000.  Dead- 
wood  bankers  ore  said  to  have  bought  above 
$900,000  worth  of  goM  dust,  and  various 
amounts  have  been  forwa.'ded  in  other  ways, 
besides  what  has  been  kept  in  the  Hills.  This 
result  has  been  entirely  from  placer  mining. 
One  riining  party  known  as  the  Wheelerparty 
realized  nearly  $500,000  in  one  season.  Extra- 
ordinary success  attended  their  work;  $2,600 
was  cleared  in  only  forty-two  hours'  work, 
and  in  general,  on  Deadwood  Creek,  the  aver- 
age to  the  miners  on  each  chum  was  $300  to 
$700  per  day.  Nearly  all  the  jield  of  the  Black 
HiUs  in  1876  was  gleaned  in  the  vicinity  of 
Deadwood  and  Whitewood  gulches. 

Quartz  mining  has  been  attempted.  First 
assays  were  but  $38  per  ton,  and  the  average 
of  the  ores  thus  far  experimented  upon  vary 
from  $10  to  $50  per  ton.  During  the  past  year 
several  gigantic  stamping  mim  have  been 
erected. 

Miners  with  mortar  and  pestle  have  taken 
ore  from  some  of  these  quartz  lodes,  and  real- 
ized as  high  as  $15  per  day.  The  width  of  the 
mineral  b  dt  is  now  definitely  ascertained  to  be 
but  ton  to  fifteen  miles,  but  u.  stretches  100 
miles  long.  The  agricultural  value  of  the  Hills 
is  beyond  all  words  of  expression.  The  val- 
leys nave  been  found  to  be  surpassingly  fertile, 
the  rain-fall  regular  and  constant,  and  were 
any  one  dissatisfied  with  mining,  still  there  is 
room  for  thousands  of  farms  and  peaceful 
homes. 

A  man  prospecting  on  Iron  Creek  took  out 
$23.07  from  one  pan  of  dirt.  Mr.  Allen,  the  re- 
corder of  mining  claims,  took  from  his  claim 
four  pounds  of  coarse  gold  in  one  month. 

Professor  Jenny,  in  July,  1875,  writing  to 
the  Department  of  the  Interior  at  Washington, 
announces  the  discovery  of  gold  in  paying 
quantities  near  Harney's  Peak.  "The  gold  is 
fonnd  in  quartz  ledges  of  enormous  dimen- 
sions. Whether  the  mines  be  valuable  or  not, 
there  is  a  vastness  of  future  wealth  in  the  grass 
lands,  farms  and  timber.  The  soil  is  deep  and 
fertile;  the  rain-fall  more  abundant  than  at  any 
other  point  west  of  the  Alleghanies. "  In  the 
summer  of  1875,  ap  (expedition  headed  by 
General  Custer  visited  this  region.  He  de- 
scribes finding  an  abundance  of  wil'A  f raits, 
strawberries,  raspberries,  gooseberries,  in  won- 
derful profusion;  and  frequently  the  wild 
berry  was  larger  and  of  a  more  delicious  flavor 
than  the  domestic  species  in  the  Eastern 
States. 

During  one  week  ei^ht  hundred  minerp. 
passed  wrough  Hill  Ci^,  en  route  tot  the 
mines  of  Whitewood  and  Deadwood.  In  most 
of  the  creeks  the  bed-rock  lies  fifteen  to  twen- 
ty and  forty  feet  below  the  surface.  On  the 
ftrst  of  March,  1877,  there  were  estimated  to 
be  over  twenty  thousand  people  in  the  Bla^^k 


EUlls,  and  rapidly  accumulating  at  the  rate  of 
one  thousand  per  month,  but  since  the  rich 
Colorado  discoveries  at  Leadville,  the  excite- 
ment has  decreased. 

A  Terrible  Thunder  Storm.— The  Black 
Hills  of  Dakota  are  tlie  fear  of  Indians, 
because  of  the  frequent  thunder  storms. 
Colonel  B.  I.  Dodge,  United  States  Com- 
mander of  the  Black  Hills  Expedition,  1874, 
states  that  in  this  re^on  "thunderstorms  are 
quite  frequent,  terrific  in  force  and  power, 
and  fearful  in  the  vividness  and  nearness  of 
the  lightning.  There  is  scarcely  a  day  in  sum- 
mer that  there  is  not  a  thunder-storm  in  some 
part  of  the  hUls. 

"  One  afternoon,  from  the  top  of  one  of  the 
high  mountains,  near  Harney's  Peak,  I  saw 
five  separate  and  distinct  storms,  occurring  at 
the  same  instant  in  different  parts  of  the 
]<Uls.  One  of  these  struck  our  party  with  fatal 
results. 

"A  heavy  rain-storm  coming  on,  two  sol- 
diers and  the  boy  took  refuge  under  a  tall 
pine.  All  three  were  seated  on  a  rock  about 
six  feet  from  the  trunk  of  the  tree,  and  each 
held  in  his  hand  the  reins  of  his  horse's  bridle. 
At  the  flash,  the  three  persons  and  horses 
were  thrown  to  the  ground,  one  of  the  soldiers 
being  pitched  quite  a  distance,  alighting  on 
his  liead.  The  sdrgeon  was  promptly  on 
hand.  Each  person  had  been  struck  on  the 
cheek  bone,  just  under  the  eye.  The  fluid 
passed  down  the  person  of  each,  going  out 
at  the  boll  of  the  foot,  boring  a  hole  in  the 
shoe  sole  as  clean  and  roTind  as  if  made 
by  a  bullet,  and  raising  a  large  blood  blis- 
ter on  the  Isottom  of  the  foot.  Neither  had 
any  other  mark  whatever.  Skipping  from 
tlie  men  to  the  horses,  the  Hash  prostrated 
aU,  striking  each  just  over  the  eye.  Two 
soon  recovered  their  feet,  and  the  third  was 
killed. 

"During  this  storm,  which  lasted  scarce 
half  an  hour,  more  than  twenty  trees  were 
struck  by  lightning  witliin  a  radius  of  a  fe\' 
hundred  yards. 

"At  another  time  I  witnessed  another 
curious  and  unaccountable  phenomenon.  I 
was  on  a  high  mountain  of  the  Harney 
group.  W'thin  four  miles  of  me,  in  dififer- 
ent  directions,  were  three  thunderstorms, 
their  clouds  being  probably  five  hundred 
or  one  thousand  feet  below  me.  Though  I 
conld  see  the  vivid  and  incessant  flashes 
of  lightning,  not  a  sound  (/  the  thunder 
could  be  heard.  Throughout  the  Hills  the 
number  of  the  trees  wuich  War  the  mark 
of  the  thunder-bolt  is  very  remarkable,  and 
the  strongest  proof  of  the  violence  and  fre- 
quent recurreTJce  of  these  storms.  The  elec- 
tric current  acts  in  the  most  eccentric  way.  In 
some  cases  it  will  have  struck  the  very  top  of  a 


71 


Jofty  pine,  and  passed  down,  cutting  a  straight 
Aud  narrow  groove  in  the  bark,  without  any  ap- 
parent ill  effect  on  the  tree,  which  remains  ^een 
and  flourishing ;  at  other  times  the  tree  will  be 
riven  into  a  thousand  pieces,  as  if  with  the  blows 
of  a  giant  axe,  and  the  fragments  scattered  a 
hundred  feet  around." 

Raitihows. — "The  rainbow  ot  the  Black 
Hills  is  a  marvel  of  perfection  and  beauty.  Two 
or  three  times  wider  than  the  rainbow  of  the 
States,  it  forms  a  complete  and  perfect  arch,  both 
en(la  being,  sometimes,  visible  to  the  beholder, 
and  one  so  near  and  distinct  that  there  would  be 
little  difficulty  in  locating  the  traditional '  pot  of 
gold.'  Very  frequently  the  rainbow  is  doubled, 
and  several  times  I  saw  three  distinct  arches,  the 
third  and  higher  being,  however,  a  comparatively 
faint  reflex  of  the  brilliant  colors  of  the  lower." 


807  feet  at  base,  297  feet  at  top.  It  rises  1,127 
feet  above  its  base,  and  5,100  feet  above  tide- 
water. Its  summit  is  inaccessible  to  anything 
without  wings.  The  sides  are  fluted  and  scored 
by  the  action  of  the  elements,  and  immense 
blocks  of  granite,  split  oft  from  the  column  by 
frost,  are  piled  in  huge,  irregular  mounds  altout 
its  base.  The  Indians  call  this  shaft  "  The  Bad 
God's  Tower." 

Game, — The  Hills  are  full  of  deer,  elk,  bears, 
wolves,  cougars,  grouse,  and  ducks.  The  streai-j 
have  an  abundance  of  fish,  although  of  but  few 
sorts. 

After  careful  investigation  General  Dodge 
closes  with  this  expression  of  careful  judgment : 

Opinion  of  General  Dodge, — "  1  Dut  ex- 
press my  fair  and  candid  opinion  'vhen  I  pro- 
nouncf!  the  Black  Hills,  in  many  respects,  the 


DEVIL'S  TOWBB— BLACK  BILLS. 


MonntainH.  —  Harney*?  Peak  is  7,440  feet 
alwve  tide-water,  the  other  imaks  are 


Crook's  Monument, 
Dodge's  Peak, 
Terry's  Peak, 
Warreu's  Peak, 
Ouster's  Peak, 
Crow  Peak, 
Bare  Peak, 
Devil's  Tower, 


7,600  feet  elevation. 
7,300  feet  elevation. 
7,200  feet  elevation. 
6,900  feet  elvvation. 
6,760  feet  elevation. 
6,200  feet  elevation. 
6,200  feet  elevation. 
6,100  feet  elevation. 


The  Devil's  Tower  is  one  of  the  most  remark- 
able peaks  of  the  world.  General  Dodge  de- 
Hcribes  it  thus :  "  An  immense  obelisk  of  granite. 


finest  country  I  have  ever  seen.  The  beauty  and 
variety  of  the  scenery,  the  excellence  of  the  soil, 
the  magnificence  of  the  climate,  the  abundance 
of  timber  and  building  stone  make  it  a  most  de- 
sirable residence  for  men  who  want  good  homes. 

"  As  a  grazing  country  it  can  not  be  surpassed, 
and  small  stock  farms  of  fine  cattle  and  sheep 
can  not  fail  of  success. 

"  Gold  there  is  evei7-where  in  the  granite — ^gold 
enough  to  make  many  fortunes,  and  tempt  to 
the  loss  of  many  more. 


It 


\'k    ■^^. 


.,,,^.^ 


affH  » 


WILLIAMS'  CAMOX,  COLORADO  SPRINGS. 

B/  THOMAS  UOBAir. 


II 


TMM  ^diCIFta  TO¥^mT. 


73 


"  Here  is  a  country  destined,  in  a  few  years,  to 
bo  an  ini]K)rtant  and  wealthy  portion  of  the 
great  American  Republic." 

There  is  little  duiibt  tliiit  in  a  few  years  this 
Rection,  from  the  Black  Hills  of  Dakota  to  and 
across  the  Big  Horn  region,  and  all  northern 
Wyoming,  will  he  a  rich  field  of  industry,  as 
have  been  Colorado  and  Utah.  The  illustrations 
we  give  are  from  photographs  taken  by  General 
Custer  in  his  famous  Black  Hills  i*jxpIoring 
Expedition  of  187'),  and  represent  this  country 
to  be  of  great  scenic  beauty. 

COLORADO. 

Pleasure  jR««or</».— Colorado  is  an  empire 
of  itself  in  enterprise,  scenic  beauty  and  abund- 
ance of  pleasure  resorts.  In  1870,  few  or  none 
of  these  were  known,  and  towns  were  small  in 
number  and  population.  Since  that  time,  it  has 
become  a  center  of  great  railroad  activity,  has 
grown  in  wonderful  favor  as  an  attractive  region 
for  summer  travel ;  and  as  a  country  for  health- 
giving  and  life-giving  strength,  it  has  drawn 
thither  thousands  who  have  made  it  their  perma- 

27te  Colorado  Division,  Union  Pacific 
Railway. — Tourists  to  Colorado  will  find  a 
journey  over  this  railrcMul  line,  opened  in  1877, 
of  special  interest  and  attractiveness.  Horton 
Reclining  Chair  Cars  run  direct  over  this  lino 
from  Cheyenne  to  Denver,  simply  changing 
trains  at  Cheyenne,  and  all  trains  make  connec- 
tions from  Denver  for  Union  Pacific  trains 
East  The  route  for  the  first  fifty  or  more  miles 
south  passes  at  the  base  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, in  grand  view  of  their  sublime  snow- 
capped summits.  The  equal  of  this  rido  in  not 
found  in  any  railroad  in  the  Far  West.  At  Fort 
Collins  the  railroad  crosses  the  famous  OcAe  la 
Poudre  Vai/ey,  one  ot  the  finest  and  most  lovely 
regions  of  agricultural  wealth  in  the  State;  and 
up  which  ulie  Oreeley,  Utah  and  Pacific  Bail- 
road  is  now  being  constructed  into  the  rich 
silver  districts  of  North  Park.  Wheat  and  all 
kinds  of  grain  are  here  cultivated  in  large 
ianns,  and  yield  luxuriant  crops. 

Elites  Park  is  a  place  of  superb  scenic  at- 
traction, which  will  afford  a  most  pleasurable 
resort  for  the  overland  Tourist  to  visit.  It  is 
reached  by  stage  from  Longmont,  distance  36 
miles,  contains  a  very  superior  mountain  hotel, 
and  a  wide  expanse  of  park  scenery,  with  mag- 
nificent views  of  Ix>ng's  Peak,  and  the  snowy 
caps  of  the  neighboring  peaks;  also  there  is 
abundance  of  trout  fishing.  For  a  health  resort 
to  any  one  seeking  rest  and  recuperation,  a 
sojourn  here  will  be  found  particularly  enjoyable. 

Longm,ont  is  in  the  midst  of  a  thriving  agri- 
cultural country,  with  large  and  rich  farms — the 
country  is  nearly  level — ^et  the  supply  of  water 
is  abundant  for  irrigating  purposes,  and  the 
farming  advantages  of  the  country  are  good. 


Some  of  the  little  farms  are  gems  in  their  neat- 
ness. The  railroad  here  is  at  its  greatest  dis- 
tance from  the  range ;  lience  they  seem  smaller, 
and  lower  in  elevation,  with  less  snow,  though 
here  and  there  is  an  opening  in  the  range  which 
reveals  the  glorious  form  of  some  tall  snow  cov- 
ered monarch.     The  population  is  about  1,000. 

Honhler  is  most  prettily  located  at  the 
entrance  to  the  famous  Boulder  Canon, 
and  immediately  in  a  little  cove  at  the  base 
of  the  mountains.  The  valley  is  the  most 
fertile  in  the  State,  the  water  supply  is  un- 
surpassed, the  climate  is  the  mildest  of  anr 
northern  country,  and  the  crops  are  mucn 
earlier  than  any  place  for  one  hundred 
miles  from  Denver.  Tourists  will  find  numer- 
ous mines  near  here  worth  visiting,  also  most 
interesting  rides  up  Boulder  Canon,  Bear  Creek 
Canon,  and  a  trip  to  Caribou  silver  mines.  The 
railroad,  as  it  posses  Southward  and  rises  out  of 
the  valley  to  the  upland,  reveals,  as  you  cast  a 
glance  back,  a  wondrously  beautiful  view  of 
landscape  charms.  'J'he  mountain  view  is  sub- 
lime; the  near  peaks  being  dark,  while  the  dis- 
tant ones,  well  covered  with  snow,  afford  start- 
ling contrast  and  are  beautiful  in  the  extreme. 

From  Boulder  to  Golden  tlunction,  and  thence 
to  Denver,  the  railroad  crosses  alternately  high 
upland,  then  descends  into  and  crosses  the  valley 
of  many  streams  flowing  from  the  mountain, 
which  irrigate  a  region  of  wonderful  agricultural 
fertility.  Upon  these  uplands,  there  is  a  mag- 
nificent and  exhilarating  oreeze,  constantly  blow- 
ing from4he  mountains.  Dark  Canons  appear 
and  disappear  as  the  Tourist  travels  on.  The 
afternoon  sun  often  reveals  glorious  displays  of 
sunset  colors  on  the  clouds,  thunder  storms  with 
lightning  often  give  wild  and  thrilling  effects. 
And  at  each  descent  from  the  upland  into  each 
little  valley,  the  view  is  one  of  beauty  and  pleas- 
ure. 

The  railroad  as  it  turns  East  from  Colorado 
tTunction,  reveals  at  the  right,  the  busy  town  of 
Golden ;  a  mile  distant,  over  it,  towers  a  peak  of 
1,000  feet  high  and  down  the  little  valley  of 
Clear  Creek,  the  route  passes  till  your  terminus 
at  Denver. 

This  route  of  reaching  Denver  from  the  East 
must  be  specially  advantageous  to  Tourists. 

llie  Cheyeniie  Divlfnon,  Union  Pad  fie 
Railway,  also  runs  direct  from  Cheyenne, 
southward,  to  Denver,  and  trains  connect  with 
the  mid-day  trains  of  the  Union  Pacific  Railway. 
The  distance,  106  miles,  is  mainly  over  a  vast 
level  plain,  covered  only  with  the  short  gray 
buffalo  grass,  but  parallel  with  the  main  range 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  twenty  to  thirl^ 
miles  from  their  eastern  base. 

Greeley — Named  in  honor  of  Horace  Gree- 
ley, and  settled  in  May,  1870.  The  colony 
possesses  about  100,000  acres  of  fine  alluvial  soil 
in  the  valley  of  the  Cacht  la  Poudrt  Biver. 


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75 


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Irrigating  ditches  have  been  conRtructed,  and 
there  is  an  abundance  of  water  for  all  ogricul- 
tnral  purposes.  The  town  for  several  years  has 
incr<^ased  with  steady  rapidity,  and  the  popula- 
tion is  slightly  over  3,600.  At  this  place  are 
located  some  of  the  finest  grist-mills  of  the 
entire  West.  The  place  has  achieved  consid- 
erable reputation  as  a  temperance  town. 

Denver  is  the  capital  of  the  State.  This 
has  become  a  large  railroad  point.  From  it 
diverge  the  Kansas  Division  Union  Pac?6c 
Railway,  636  miles  eastward  toKansaR  Oity,  the 
Denver  and  Bio  Grande  Bailrood,  Narrow 
<>auge,  southward,  to  Canon  City,  Pueblo, 
Leadville,  Trinidad  and  San  Juan;  the  Denver 
and  South  Park  Division  Union  Paoiiic  Bailway 
to  South  Park,  Leadville,  and  the  Gunnison 
country;  also  the  various  branches  of  the  Colo- 
rado Division  Union  Pacific  Bailway  to  George- 
town, Idaho  Springps,  Central  City,  and  the 
mines  of  the  mountains.  In  course  of  con- 
struction are :  the  Denver  and  New  Orleans  Bail- 
way,  running  to  the  southeast  to  connect  with 
the  Texas  system  of  railroads;  the  Denver, 
Western  and  Pacific  Bailway,  running  north- 
west to  the  Boulder  County  coal-fields  and 
Longmart;  the  Denver,  Utah  and  Pacific 
Bailroad,  running  westward  through  South 
Boulder  Canon  to  the  Middle  Park  country, 
while  the  projected  lines  are  almost  "  legion. " 

Its  population  exceeds  40,00  nd  its  location 
is  most  advantageous  for  easy  trade  and  com- 
munication with  all  the  principal  points  of  the 
Territory.  Located  on  an  open  plain,  about 
thirteen  miles  from  the  Bocky  Mountains,  there 
is  a  grand  view  of  the  entire  range  from  Long's 
Peak  on  the  north  to  Pike's  Peak  on  the  south, 
while  eastward,  northward  and  southward 
stretch  the  vast  upland  plains  which  are  so  im- 
pressive with  their  boundless  extent.  The  city  is 
full  of  thrift,  of  life,  and  trade  is  always  splen- 
did. The  buildings  which  grace  the  principal 
streets  are  made  principally  of  brick,  and  in 
genend  appearance  are  superior  to  those  of  any 
city  west  of  the  Missouri  Biver.  Daily,  weekly 
and  monthly  newspapers  thrive.  Here  is  a 
branch  of  the  United  States  Mint,  gas-works, 
water-works,  steam  heating  works,  electric 
light  works,  horse-railroads,  and  a  multitude  of 
hotels.  The  best  of  which  are  the  Windsor, 
Grand  Central,  Inter-OceaUi  American,  Went- 
wortli,  Delmonico  and  Villa  Park.  From  this 
point  the  tmveler  can  radiate  in  all  directions 
in  search  of  pleasure  resorts. 

Notes  to  Touriatn. — The  uniform  railroad 
fare  in  the  State  averages  eight  cents  per  mUe. 
Stage  routes  run  all  through  the  mountains,  fare 
from  ten  to  twenty  cents  per  mile.  The  uniform 
rate  of  board  is  four  dollars  per  day,  and  almost 
everywhere  can  be  found  excellent  living — the 
nicest  of  beefsteak,  bread  and  biscuit.  In  many 
of  the  mountain  resorts  plenty  of  good  fishing 


can  1>e  found,  and  delicate  trout  are  common 
viands  of  the  hotel  tables.  The  l)e8t  season  of 
the  year  for  a  visit  to  Colorailo  is  in  July  and 
August,  as  then  the  snow  has  nearly  disap- 
peared from  the  mountains,  and  all  the  beauti- 
ful parks  and  valleys  are  easily  approachable. 
Those  who  wish  to  include  both  Colorado  and 
California  in  a  pleasure  trip  will  do  well  to 
visit  California  first,  during  April,  May  and 
June,  and  then  on  returning  spend  July  and 
August  leisurely  in  the  cosy  little  home  resorts 
of  Colorado. 

The  Denver  aiul  Rio  Grande  Railroad 
wiU  can-y  the  traveler  southward  from  Denver, 
along  the  base  of  the  Bocky  Mountains,  to  some 
of  the  moHt  noted  pleasure  resorts  of  the  State. 
This  little  narrow  gauge  is  a  wonder  of  itself, 
representing  nearly  920,000,000  of  capital,  and 
operating;  over  700  miles  of  road;  it  haa  devel- 
oped a  traflio  exceeding  8000,000  per  month, 
where  ten  yeara  ago  the  stage  route  did  not  real- 
ize $1,000  per  month,  and  the  prospects  for  the 
future  for  its  trade  with  the  miners  of  tho  San 
Juan  country,  Leadville  and  Santa  Fe,  aro  most 
encouraging,  as  the  new  gold  discoveries  become 
better  developed.  Seventy-six  miles  south  of 
Denver,  on  this  line,  are  clustered  three  little 
places  of  resort,  practically  one  in  interest 
— Colorado  Springs,  Colorado  City,  and 

Manitou  Spri  tign. — The  former  is  the  rail- 
road station,  a  lively  town,  which  in  eight  years 
has  risen  from  the  prairie  to  a  population  of 
5,000.  Six  miles  distant  from  the  Springs  at 
Manitou,  are  collected  several  e)egant  hotels, 
and  in  the  vicinity  are  numerous  soda  springs — 
iron  smrings  and  medicinal  baths — of  great  vir- 
tue. The  location  of  this  rcsoi-t,  with  its  won- 
derful collection  of  objects  of  natund  interest 
and  scenery,  has  earned  for  it  the  title  of 
"Saratoga  of  the  Far  West."  Travelers  find 
hero  beautiful  scene^  in  the  Ute  Pass — Garden 
of  the  Goda — Glen  Eyrie,  numerous  beautiful 
canons.  Queen  Canon — Cheyenne  Canon,  grand 
and  impressive,  and  towering  over  all  is  the  lofty 
summit  of  Pike's  Peak,  14,300  feet  higli,  up 
which  ascends  a  trail  to  the  Government  Signal 
Station,  the  highest  in  tlie  United  States. 

In  this  vicinitv  is  located  ajiretty  little  canon 
about  fifteen  miles  in  length,  witii  walls  of  rock 
rising  to  a  uniform  height  of  600  and  800  feet 
above  avety  narrow  foot  pass  below.  This  canon 
was  discovered  and  named,  in  1870,  by  a  party  of 
editors,  IVt/Ztatm'  i  utioi.,  inhonorot'H.  T.  Wil- 
liams, their  commander.  This  was  the  first  visit 
of  an  Eastern  party  of  any  notoriety  at  tho 
Springs.  No  radroad  was  then  built,  and  not  a 
house  was  to  be  seen,  nor  even  a  ranchman's 
cabin.  The  scenery  of  this  canon  lee  iiiustra' 
to»)  is  at  various  points  wild  in  uie  extreme. 
The  canon  boasts  several  noted  caves,  the  "Cave 
of  the  Winds  "  being  one  of  the  largest,  most 
beautiful  and  generaUy  attractive  in  the  country. 


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TMM  p;§ctric  roimiST. 


77 


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Flfoaure  travelers  are  uiiiformly  glad  that 
they  have  made  a  viHit  tu  theae  poin^,  aa  tliey 
excel  ill  iiitei-eat  any  other  points  in  the  Western 
trip.  Southward  iruin  Colorado  Sprin^^s,  the 
uext  moat  noted  reaort  is  Canon  City  and  the 

Qrand  Canon  of  the  ArkantutH. — Thin  ia 
a  scene  of  remarkable  beauty  and  magnificence ; 
lit  one  point  can  be  aeen  the  river  winding  its 
way  for  ten  miles,  at  the  base  of  huge  perpendic- 
ular rocks  wltich  rise  fully  lUOO  and  2(X)0  feet 
above  the  current.  This  is  the  grandest  canon 
view  in  Colorado.  Westward  from  Colorado 
Springs  is  the  South  Park,  a  noted  route  for 
travelers  who  enjoy  campiug  out,  and  a  fine  di'ive 
through  the  mountains. 

Garden  of  t/te  Gods.  —  T/te  Beautiful 
Gate* — This  is  also  a  famous  pleasure  resort  at 
Manitou,  near  Colorado  Springy.  Midway  be- 
tween the  Station  and  Springs  ia  located  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  and  curious  little  parks,  and 
upheaval  of  rocks  that  Western  scenery  can  dis- 
play. Descending  from  parallel  ridges  into  a 
ittle  park,  the  traveler  sees  in  front  of  liiin  a 
beautiiul  gate  of  two  enormous  rocks,  rising  in 
massive  proportion  to  the  height  of  350  feet^  with 
a  natural  gateway  between  of  200  feet  in  width, 
with  a  small  rock  in  the  center.  Standing  a  little 
eastward,  the  observer  gets  the  view  illustrated  in 
our  engraving.  At  the  right  ia  another  parallel 
ridge  of  rocks,  pure  white,  which  contrasts  finely 
with  the  dark  red  of  the  rocka  of  the  gate. 
Through  the  gate,  in  the  long  distance  is  seen 
the  summit  of  Pike's  Peak,  eighteen  miles  away. 
Around  these  rocks  is  a  little  grassy  park  of  fifty 
or  more  acres,  in  which  according  to  the  mytholog- 
ical stories  of  the  people,  the  "  gods  "  found  such 
k)vely  times  in  play  that  they  christened  it  a  gar- 
den. These  two  parallel  ridges  of  white  and  red 
rocks  extend  for  many  miles  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountains,  and  form  other  curious  formations  at 
Glen  Eyrie,  Monumant  Park  and  Pleasant  Park, 
although  much  lesa  in  aize  and  impreaaiveness. 

The  Dome  of  tits  Continent— Gray*» 
Peak, — ^Westward  from  Denver  sixty-five  miles, 
and  fourteen  from  G^^orgetown,  Coionido,  rises 
the  grandest  and  most  beantifnl  of  the  moun- 
tains of  Colorado.  The  war  thither  is  one  of 
easy  approach,  via  the  Colorado  Division 
Umon  Pacific  Railway,  through  the  magnifi- 
cent and  vrorld-famous  Clear  Creek  Canon, 
past  Idaho  Springs,  one  of  the  most  charming  ( f 
summer  resorts,  and  past  all  the  mines  of  Golden, 
Empire,  Georgetown,  and  the  silver  mines  of  the 
Palisades.  Near  to  the  summit  are  two  very  suc- 
cessful mines.  Baker  and  Stevens,  which  are  dug 
out  of  the  perpendicular  face  of  a  rock  fully  200 
feet  in  height.  Rising  above  all  the  ranges  of  the 
Colorado  Mountains  of  north  Colorado,  Gray's 
Peaks  are  the  grand  I.<ookout  Points,  from  which 
to  view  to  advantage  all  the  vast  mountain  range. 
In  a  clear  day  the  observer  can  embrace  in  his 
range  of  vision  a  distance  of  100  miles,  in  each 


direction,  northward,  southward  and  westwan!, 
and  even  eastward  to  over  the  plains  eatft  of 
Denver.  From  this  jtoiiit  are  plainly  discernible 
Pike's  Peak,  UO  miles  away,  Mount  Lincoln,  50 
milea  ;  Mountof  the  Holy  Cross,  UOniileH;  Long'e 
Peak,  oU  miles ;  the  City  of  Denver,  05  miles,  and 
even  the  summit  of  the  Spaniah  Peaka,  150  miles 
southward,  and  the  higher  ranges  of  (he  Uintah 
MountaiiLs,  150  miles  westward.  The  total  range 
of  the  vision  being  not  less  than  200  to  2.')0  miles. 
Beneath  them  at  the  foot,  lie  the  beautiful  rivers 
and  lukea  of  Middle  Park ;  southward  the  vast 
extended  plains  of  South  Park,  and  everywhere 
near  at  hand  multitudes  of  little  grassy  parks, 
like  valleys  dotted  with  the  groves  of  spruce  and 
pine,  as  if  planted  for  a  grand  pleasure  ground. 
The  height  of  the  Peak  ia  14,351  feet,  and  is 
the  easiest  of  access  df  all  the  mountains  of  Colo- 
rado. Travelers  and  pleasure  tourists  who  desire 
one  grand  sight,  never  to  be  regi-etted,  must  not 
fail  to  include  this  in  their  Western  visit  for  the 
sublimity  and  grand  exaltation  as  from  so  lofty  s 
height  one  views  a  sea  of  huge  mountains,  is  a 
thing  always  to  live  in  one's  niemorv.  There  is  a 
fine  road  to  within  three  miles  oil  the  summit, 
through  charming  verdure-clad  canons  and  val- 
leys and  the  rest  of  the  way  can  be  made  over  a 
flue  trail  by  horseback,  even  to  the  summit. 

Westward  from  Denver  are  Idaho  Springs, 
Georgetown,  Gray's  Peak,  Middle  Park,  Clear 
Creek,  and  Boulder  Canons,  with  the  mining  at- 
tractions of  Central  City,  Georgetown,  Empire, 
Caribou,  and  Black  Hawk,  where  the  obsei-ver 
can  witness  sights  of  extraordinary  beauty.  We 
can  not  possibly  describe  the  attractions  of  these 
resorts.  They  are  at  once  terrible,  overpower- 
ing, lonely,  and  full  of  indescribable  majesty. 
Amid  them  all  the  tourist  travels  daily,  imbib- 
ing the  life-giving,  beautiful,  fresh  air  full  of  its 
oxygen  to  quicken  and  stimulate  the  system ; 
the  eye  drinks  in  the  wealth  of  scenery,  and 
loves  to  note  the  beauties  of  the  wonderful  glow- 
ing sunlight,  and  the  occasional  cloud-storms, 
and  wild  display  of  power  and  glory. 

We  know  of  no  country  better  w-irth  the  title 
of  the  "  Switzerlantt  of  A  merica  "  than  Colorado, 
with  'ts  beautiful  mountain  parks,  valleys,  and 
springs.  Go  and  see  them  all.  The  tour  will  be 
worthy  of  remembrance  for  a  life-time. 

The  editor  of  this  Guide  expects  soon  to  issue 
The  Colorado  Tourinf,  devoted  more  especially  to 
the  attractions  of  Colorado,  as  the  limits  of  this 
Guide  can  not  begin  to  possibly  describe  a  hun- 
dredth part  of  the  objects  of  interest  within  that 
little  region — a  woriti  of  pleasure  travel  by  itself. 

Of  Life  in  Colorado^ — a  prominent  writer 
has  said :  "  At  Denver  I  found,  as  I  thought,  the 
grade  of  civilization  actually  higher  than  in  most 
Western  cities.  In  elegance  of  building,  in  fin- 
ish, in  furniture,  in  dress  and  equipages,  that 
city  is  not  behind  any  this  side  of  the  Atlantic 
border.    The  total  absence  of  squalidity  and  vis- 


p  111 


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ibie  poverty,  aiiU  I  may  also  say  of  coarsfliiuM 
and  rowdyiHin,  impreiuud  me  on  my  vinit  very 
Htrongly,  uh  did  the  eurnestiiesH,  activity  and  in- 
tensity of  life  wliicli  is  everywtiere  so  apparent." 

P.  T.  Harnum  once  said  of  Colorado,  in  a  leu- 
tee :  "  Why,  Coloradoans  are  the  most  disaiv- 
])0i.ited  people  I  ever  saw.  Two-thirds  of  them 
came  here  to  die,  and  tney  can't  do  it.  This 
wonderful  air  brings  them  oauk  from  the  verge 
of  the  tomb,  and  they  are  naturally  exceedingly 
disappointed." 

The  average  temperature  is  about  00*  the  year 
round — the  air  is  bracing,  winter  mild,  and  days 
alnioot  alwavs  full  of  clear  skiea  and  bright  warm 
sunshine.  The  Durity  and  dryness  of  the  atmos* 
plieie  are  proverbial. 

Utimntalii,  of  the  lEolii  Cvohh. — The  name 
of  this  remarkable  mountain  is  renowned  to  the 
ends  of  the  earth,  and  is  the  only  one  with  this 
name  in  the  world.  It  is  the  principal  mountain 
of  tlie  Sawatch  Range,  just  west  of  the  Middle 
Fark  of  Colorado,  and  is  now  easy  of 
access.  The  Hayden  party  were  several  days  in 
merely  finding  an  accessible  way  of  travel  to 
reach  its  base.    The  chaniioteristic  features  which 

g've  it  its  name  is  the  vertical  face,  nearly  3,00U 
et  in  depth,  with  a  crons  at  the  upper  portion, 
the  entire  fissures  being  filled  with  snow.  The 
cross  is  of  such  remarkable  size  and  distinct  con- 
trast with  the  dark  granite  rock,  that.it  can  be 
seen  nearly  eighty  miles  away,  and  easily  dis- 
tinguiiihed  from  all  other  mountain  {)eak8.  The 
snow  seems  to  have  been  caught  in  the  fissure, 
which  is  formed  of  a  succession  of  steps,  and  here, 
becoming  well  lodged,  it  remains  all  the  ^year. 
Late  in  the  summer  the  cross  is  very  much  dimin- 
ished in  size  by  the  melting  of  the  snow.  A  beau- 
tiful green  lake  lies  at  the  base  of  the  peak,  almost 
up  to  the  timber  line,  which  forms  a  reservoir  for 
the  waters  from  the  melting  snows  of  the  high 
peaks.  From  this  flows  a  stream  with  many 
charming  cascades.  The  height  of  the  mountain 
is  14,170  feet  above  tide-water.  The  perpendicu- 
lar arm  of  the  cross  is  1,500  feet  in  length,  and 
fully  60  feet  in  breadth,  the  snow  lying  in  the 
crevice  from  50  to  100  feet  in  depth.  The  hori- 
zontal arm  varies  in  length  with  the  seasons,  but 
averages  700  feet.  The  mountain  was  ascended 
by  the  Hayden  party  only  with  the  greatest  difti- 
culty,  after  5,000  feet  of  climbing — fifty  pounds 
of  instrumentb  on  each  back,  and  obliged  to  pass 
thirty  hours  on  the  summit,  with  no  shelter,  pro- 
tection, fuel  or  provisions,  except  one  pocket 
lunch. 

New  Pleasure  Hesort^  in  Colo- 
rado* 

Overland  tourists,  desiring  to  behold  the  grand- 
est scenery  in  America  should  stop  at  Cheyenne, 
and  visit  some  of  the  following  newly  opened 
resorts.     la  every  respect  the   title   of   Tub 


AmkiuOan  Switzkkland  is  well  deserved,  for 
the  wild,  weird,  majestic  and  colossal,  are  so  min- 
gled with  scenes  of  valley  loveliness  or  Aluine 
sublimity,  as  to  be  beyond  description.  Yo« 
should  not  fail  to  visit 

EHtvH  I*ark,—a.  little  gem  of  parks,  the  p»et- 
tiest  in  Colorado, — easily  reached  by  stage  on 
every  side.  The  viow  as  you  reach  the  run  of 
the  park,  and  look  down  is  glorioiu  in  the  extri-me. 
We  Imvo  seen  none  of  liierstadt's  paint'nfji"  to 
equal  it.  Cozy  liotels  are  fonnd  in  tho  paik,  nice 
living,  cheap  prices,  saddle  horses  and  abundance 
of  trout  fisliing.  A  few  days  can  be  s^Mint  in 
the  midst  of  most  enchanting  park  and  mountain 
scenery.  A  rim  of  snow-capped  mountains  sur- 
rounds the  valley,  which  in  api)earance  very  much 
resembles  an  English  park. 

Cleat'  (Ji'eek  Canon. — Do  not  fail  to  visit 
this,  one  of  the  womlera  of  Colorado.  A  little 
narrow  gauge  railroad  from  Denver  to  Golden, 
thence  pushes  its  way  right  up  the  cou'-''t  of  the 
canon,  where  it  makes  its  way  between  Jie  tor- 
rent of  the  rapid  creek,  and  tn«  walls  of  stupen- 
dous rocks.  These  rocks  rise  1,000  to  2.0)  0  feet 
in  elevation  of  almost  peri)endicular  direction, 
and  succeed  one  another  in  the  most  inconceiva- 
ble wildness,  tortuosity  and  extreme  sublimity, 
alternating  with  extreme  wildness, — a  scene  of 
splendor  and  wonder.  The  grade  of  the  rail- 
road averages  over  100  feet  to  the  mile.  Upon 
this  road  are  three  places  worth  special  visits, 
Central  City  where  are  rich  gold  mines,  and 
where  horses  can  be  obtained  ior  the  ascent  of 
James  I'eak,— or  Boulder  Pass  one  of  the  most 
magnificent  views  in  all  the  West,  —  Idaho 
Springs  is  celebrated  for  its  Soda  and  Sulphur 
Springs  which  are  great  help  to  invalids. 

Oeorgetoivnp—\H  the  scene  of  rich  mines, 
and  from  this  place  are  many  routes  to  famoua 
points  of  scenery.  Here  horses  can  be  engaged 
tor  the  ascent  of  Grays  Peak,  a  tour  of  a  life* 
time,  the  grandest  of  all  mountains  in  Colorado. 
Its  ascent  is  very  easy,  and  costs  but  triflinj;. 
No  tourist  should  omit  it,  as  you  can  behold  m 
a  clear  day  a  sea  of  mountains,  and  a  vision  of 
500  miles  before  your  astonished  gaze. 

The  Middle  Park.  —  From  Georgetown 
also  is  a  splendid  wagon  road  to  the  Hot  Sulphur 
Springs,  Middle  Park.  These  are  excellent  for 
all  who  feel  the  need  of  health, — a  grand  place 
for  camping  parties.  West  of  here  is  rich  fish- 
ing and  hunting,  and  the  scenery  of  the  Canon 
of  the  Grand,  on  the  west,  or  Grand  Lake  on  the 
east,  is  very  attractive.  From  this  place  one  can 
travel  on  horseback  the  entire  distance  across 
'.'..  J  mountains  to  Utah,  with  little  inconvenienc*, 
trails  already  existincr  in  the  valleys  of  rivers. 

Scenery  of  Southern,  Cmorfido, — re- 
quires more  staging,  but  is  still  more  grand 
than  that  of  Northern  Colorado.  Here  are  the 
richest  mines  recently  discovered,  which  pro- 
duce half  a  million  dollars  per  week.    This  sec- 


m 


TMM  '^actFw  Tom^mT, 


f-  '.\ 


;•  ffl 


tion  of  I  oniitry  is  divide^l  into  twc  portfi.  Tlie 
firat  \tiAi\fi,  7>ia  th«  Denver  un.I  *^,-ath  Park 
Division  Union  Pacific  Rixilway,  whicfi  is  the 
princ'ipfti  lotxto  to  Lfimlvillo  ana  the  Gnunison 
country.  The  socmory  near  hero  is  most  in- 
BpirJnj?.  Tlie  carons  traversed  by  tho  railway 
arofnll  of  nigped  l)eanty;  while  ascending  the 
Platto  Canon,  tho  gi"ado  is  often  140  feet  to  tho 
mile,  and  tho  gorges  Ijetween  the  monn tains  are 
oft/?n  2,00f.)  f<>et  high.  Tho  rido  to  Leodville  is 
very  enjoyable,  across  the  South  Park,  in  view 
oil  tho  glorious  mountains.  At  Fairplay  yon 
can  take-  horses  for  an  ascent  np  Mount  Lincoln, 
14,29J)  feet  high.  Tho  view  here  is  finer  than 
from  Pike's  Pe«lc.  Around  is  seen  a  sea  of  snow- 
capped peakH,  and  at  its  base  a  little  gem  of  a 
lake.  Tlie  second  route  to  the  scenery  of 
Southern  Coloroxlo  is  via  the  Denver  and  Rio 
Grande  Railway.  From  Canon  City  no  finer 
ride  is  possible  than  an  excursion  to  Hosita,  and 
return ;  thence  a  trip  up  the  Grand  Canon  of 
the  Arkansas,  and  on  through  the  Arkansas 
Valle-r  to  Twin  Lakes  would  ho  moat  glorious. 
A  pPiTson  visiting  Leatlvillo  may  enter  this  route 
mam  return  by  the  other  and  vice  vrrsa.  An- 
other tour  over  this  railroad  is  via  Pueblo  to 
Trinidad  and  Garlaad. 

Srenery  uf  Veta  l»<i««.— This  is  one  of  the 
b%hest  railway  points  in  America,  9,B39  feet 
elevation.  The  scenery  is  extremely  peculiar. 
The  little  railroad  ascending  a  pretty  canon, 
beautifully  timbered  for  several  mdes,  suddenly 
turns,  crosses,  and  returns  on  the  opp(  tsite  ^ido 
ascending  in  a  steep  grade  of  211  feet  average 
to  the  mile,  until,  as  it  reaches  the  exJreme 
crest  of  the  summit  of  the  Dump  Mountain, 
tJiere  bursts  Iwfore  the  astonished  visitor  a 
glorious  vision.  To  tl  e  south  the  Spanish 
Peaks,  to  tho  north  VeUi.  Mountain,  and  to  the 
northwest  the  immense  fonu  of  Mount  Blanca, 
the  highest  of  the  range.  Tho  railroad  from 
this  crest  im  '  diately  turns  and  follows  back 
on  tho  rill  go  oaly  a  few  feet  from  its  ti-ack  on 
the  other  siile,  and  then  ascending,  amid 
timber^  pas'^es  over  the  summit  of  tho  divide 
into  tho  San  Luis  Pork,  whence  it  continues 
westward  to  the  Ban  Juim  Mountain  countrj", 
about  200  miles  distant,  where  is  not  only  the 
grandest  of  mountain  scenery,  but  also  infinite 
riches  of  mineral  wealth. 

JPouuler  Hirer  Count fff.— The  Powder 
River,  so  named  from  the  dark  powder-colored 
Band  in  its  bod,  rises  in  the  Big  Horn  Mountains, 
north  and  north-west  of  Old  Fort  Ca.sper,  and 
runs  in  a  general  north-easterly  direction  till  it 
eiitpties  int()  the  Yellowstone  River.  It  drains  an 
imineu.ie  area  of  country,  flows  through  a  large 
rogio  I  of  tin;)  grazing  laridi),  and  has  in  the  mount- 
ains and  liills  on  either  side,  untold  treasures  of 
rich  tnetuU  and  precious  gems.  It  has  hitherto 
been  t'orbidden  ground  to  white  men,  but  thor.y 
who  have  passed  throughit  give  glowing  de.scri|>- 


tions  of  its  luxuriant  fertility,  its  grand  scenery 
and  it>«  mineral  wealth,  it  will  be  one  of  the 
finest  graziiig-reyiuns  in  the  country,  produciiit^ 
vast  herds  ot  cattle,  sheep  and  horses.  There 
are  also  heavy  bodies  of  timber  on  the  hills  and 
mountains  wiiich  border  tiiis  river.  Its  wonders 
are  Just  beginning  to  be  told. 

The  Tonyae.  Hiver  (Joutiti'ii. — Tliis  is  sim- 
ilar to  that  borderin  the  Powder  River,  but  the 
soil  is  more  fertile  and  better  adapted  to  iigri- 
cultural  pursuits.  The  Tongue  River  rises  in 
the  Big  Horn  Mountains,  in  the  central  jw.tion 
of  northern  Wyoming,  and  runs  north  into  tho 
Yellowstone  River.  It  abounds  in  the  utsua! 
varieties  of  fish,  rnd  game  is  abundant  along  vU 
bank.s.     It  is  a  very  crooked  stream. 

Colorado  Junction — 522.4  miles  from  Oma- 
ha, witli  an  elevation  of  0,325  feet — is  the  junction 
with  the  Colorado  Di".  U.  P.  Railwi.y.  As  you 
leave  Cheyenne,  looking  otf  to  the  right,  you 
will  see  the  Black  Hills  of  Wyoming  stretching 
to  the  north,  and  you  will  wonder  how  you  are 
to  get  by  them,  'fo  tl."*  ■'  K  Long's  Peak  rears 
its  snow-captKtl  summit  high  into  the  air.  It  is 
one  of  the  fanous  mou'itains  of  Colorado,  and 
you  have  a  Ixjtter  view  of .  it  on  the  Colorado 
Central  than  from  the  Union  Pacific.  It  is 
always  crowned  with  snow  and  frequently  ob- 
Ecured  by  clouds.  How  ^rand  it  looks,  and  how 
huge  it  api)ears  in  the  distance. 

(ttto, — 5:S0.0  miles  from  Omaha,  and  6,724 
feet  above  the  sea.  Every  opportunity  for  ob- 
taining the  mountain  views,  both  to  the  right  and 
left,  should  be  observed  and  taken  advantage  of. 
This  is  the  usual  passing  place  where  the  ex- 
press trains  meet  from  East  and  West. 

Granite  Canon — is  the  next  station,  636.6 
miles  from  Omaha,  and  7,398  feet  in  altitude. 
You  approach  this  sUtion.  liigh  uiton  the  side  of 
a  ravine,  and  through  deep  cuts  in  granite  spun. 
Stunted  pines,  liko  lone  sentinels,  are  seen  on 
the  bleak  hills.  Here  are  large  quarries  of 
stone  from  which  !he  railroad  companv's  build- 
ings at  Cheyenne  were  constructed.  The  cuts, 
through  a  reddish  granite,  are  short  but  very 
heavy.  Snow  sheds  are  now  quite  frequent. 
^  Bufortl, — 542.5  miles  from  Omaha ;  eleva- 
tion, 7,780  feet.  It  is  a  telegraph  station.  As 
you  leave  it  on  your  left,  the  "  Twin  Mountains," 
two  peaks  in  the  Black  Hills,  lift  their  rocky 
heads  above  thu  barren  waste  around  them. 
Neai'  these  mo^jntains  tho  noted  desperado,  Jack 
Slade,  once  had  his  retreat.  The  country  here  is 
covered  with  short  buflfalo  grass,  cut  with  ravines 
and  draws,  alraundin^  in  fine  springs,  and  in 
places,  covortvl  with  pino  trees.  The  dark  hues 
of  the  pine  give  the  hiDs  their  name,  "black," 
and  in  places  the  timber  is  quite  jiea\'y.  A  short 
distance  to  your  right,  Crow  Creek  rises  and 
winds  its  way  among  the  hills  to  the  plains  be- 
low. Four  and  a  h';lf  miles  north  from  Buford, 
near  the  valley  of  Crow  Creek,  mines  of  copper 


I  i-Mf 


TmE  e.'iClFIC  TOmEtiBT. 


HI 


ftrid  silver  have  be«n  discovered.  Thtt  ore  assays 
over  ioO  per  ton,  but  is  vory  refractory.  Notice 
on  north  side  of  road  the  sigiiltounl,  "Suiiuiiit 
of  the  Mountains." 

Shf'rinau—-i^  ')\\).'2  miles  ironi  Omaha,  at  an 
f?levation  of  8,"i4"J  feet.  At  tlio  time  tiiu  i-oail 
was  completed  here,  it  was  the  hight-st  railroad 
|X)int  in  the  world,  but  theic  aru  hij,'her  i)laei!s 
now  reached  by  rail  i:i  South  Ammica.  It  hiis 
!)t!en  resiched  by  n.'  ascent  s<j  j^raduai  that  you 
have  hardly  notic  n  it.  In  the  pxst  few  years 
there  have  been  mwiy  chancres  in  tjrade  of  tlie 
!Jnion  Pacific,  and  wh^jrever  jiossibie,  the  track 
has  been  raised  above  the  cuts,  so  the  snow, 
unless  in  immense  quantities,  now  causes  but 
little  imp«dimimt  to  travel.  At  Sherman,  the 
snow  uever  falls  very  deep,  but  there  is  u  con- 


mile,  and  the  maximum  i^rade  of  any  one  mile 
is  !)0  feet.  From  Siierman  to  Laramie,  the  dis- 
lance  is  2\\.\  i-'.iles;  the  avera;;e  grade  is  r^)  feet 
to  the  mile.  A'hile  the  maxinmm  grade  of  any 
on(i  mile  is  the  same  as  on  tlie  easUtrn  slope— 00 
1'iet  to  the  mile.  'I'hese  grades  indicate  why 
this  route  across  the  liltvck  liiils  was  8electe«i  iii 
preference  to  others  where  the  altitude  was  not 
as^nvat — the  approach  on  either  side  Ijeing  moi*H 
gradual,  though  the  elevation  is  greater.  Nearly 
al!  trains  between  (Cheyenne  and  Laramie  have 
two  engines  attached  so  that  they  may  be  easily 
controlled.  !t  is  a  steady  pull  to  the  summit, 
from  each  side,  and  the  heavy  down  grades  from 
it  recpiire  a  great  deal  of  power  to  properly  con- 
trol trains.  Aliont  i  mile  west  of  Sherman  on 
the  left  side  of  the  rood,  is  "Heed's  Kcxik,"  so 


SKITLL  ROOKS, 

stant  brerze,  that  most  F^astpri;  jiwiple  would 
pronounce  a  gale,  and  the  .^now  is  constantly 
drifting  and  paiiks  .so  haal  wherever  it  finds 
lodgment,  that  it  is  exceedingly  didicult  to  dis- 
place, n-quiring  an  immensH  power  of  snow- 
jilows,  engini'S  and  shovelers.  As  you  approach 
Sherman,  yoii  will  see  the  balanced  roiks,  and  to 
the  right  i^f  the  station,  about  one-quarter  of  a 
mile,  is  a  rugged  peak,  m-ar  which  an*  giaves  of 
some  who  are  (juietly  sleeping  so  near  heaven, 
and  a  solitary  pino  tree,  like  a  sentinel  ki-eping 
guard  over  tlu'm.  Sherman  is  a  telegraph  sta- 
tion, has  a  hotel,  o\w  or  two  saloons,  several 
houses,  and  a  roundbonsi.'  where  an  enji  ne  is 
kept  for  use  in  cases  of  emergency.  The  dilTer- 
ence  in  elevation  between  this  jilace  and  Cii' y- 
enno  is  2,"_'(ll  feet,  and  distance  ne.-vrly  lU  mir.'s. 
The  average  grade  fiom  Cheyenne  is  (J7  feet  per 


NEAR  BRRRMAN. 

called  from  one  of  the  civil  engineers  who  laid 
out  the  road.  Something  like  two  hundred 
f(!et  to  the  eastward  of  the  station,  and  ou 
the  north  sido  of  the  track,  there  may  be 
seen  a  post,  binning  the  imjMirtant  announce* 
mentthat  this  is  the  'Sumiiiii  nf  lluf  llorkfi  Mount- 
ain.i."  Stitiou  is  named  after  (ieneral  Sherman. 
I>at('  Crt'vk  ttrldfff — is  about  two  miles 
west  of  Sherman.  This  bridge  is  built  of  ii-on, 
and  seems  to  be  a  light  airy  structure,  but  is 
really  very  substantial.  The  creek,  like  a  thread 
of  silver,  winds  its  devious  way  in  the  depths  be- 
low, and  is  soon  lost  t<i  sight  as  yon  i)a.s8  rapidly 
down  the  ;,Made  and  through  the  granite  cuts  and 
snow  sheds  beyon<l.  This  bridge  is  ((.')()  feet  lo\ig, 
and  nearly  l:'0  feet  high,  and  "  ■  one  of  tin!  won- 
ders on  the  great  trans-continental  route.  A 
water  tank,  just  beyond  it,  is  supplied  with  water 


«^* 


82 


FMM  ^aCiFiC  TaMtiST. 


%M^vi^&s*6s^ 


DALE  CREKK   BRIOOB. 


from  the  creek  by  means  of  5  steam  pump.  The 
buUiiiiigs  ill  the  valley  helow  seem  Hmall  in  the 
distance,  though  they  are  not  a  preat  way  off. 
The  old  wa-Jton  road  crossed  the  creek  down  a 
ravine,  on  the  ripht  side  of  the  track,  and  the 
remains  of  the  bridsje  miiy  still  be  seen.  This 
stream  rises  about  six  mil''s  north  of  the  bridge, 
and  is  fed  by  niun-'rous  springs  and  tributaries, 
running  in  a  general  southerly  direction,  until  it 
empties  into  the  Cache  La  Poudre  River.  The 
old  overland  road  from  Denver  to  California 
ascended  this  river  and  creek  until  it  struck 
the  head-waters  of  the  Laramie.  Leaving  Dale 
Creek  bridge,  the  road  soon  turns  to  the  ritjlit, 
and  before  you,  on  the  left,  is  spread  out,  like  a 
magniflcent  panorama. 

The  GieiU  Lavamie  Pluhtn. — These 
plains  have  an  average  width  of  40  miles,  ami 
are  100  miles  in  length.  They  begin  at  the 
western  base  of  the  Black  Hills  and  extend  to 
the  slope  of  the  Medicine  Bow  Mountains,  and 
north  beyond  where  the  t^aramie  River  cuts 
its  way  through  these  hills  to  join  its  waters 
with  tiie  North  Platte.  Tli'»y  comprise  an  urea 
of  over  two  and  a  half  millions  of  acres,  and 
are  regarded  as  one  of  the  richest  grazii.^'  |X)r- 
tions  of  country.  Across  th<vse  plains,  and  a 
little  to  the  I  'ft,  as  you  begin  to  glide  over  tli<'in, 
rises  in  full  view  the  Diamond  Peaks  o(  the 
Medicine  How  Range.  They  are  trim  and  clear- 
cut  cones,  with  sharp  pointed  summits — a  fact 
which  has  given  them  their  name,  while  their 
sides,  and  the  rugged  hills  amuii'l  tb  in,  jiri>  cov- 
ered with  timber.  Still  fartlu'r  in  tli  •  sliailowy 
distance,  in  a  sonth-west "rly  dirt'ctinn.  it  the 
atmosphi  i"  is  clear,  you  will  see  the  white  sum- 
mits of  t  le  Snowy  Range — white  with  tli'ir 
robes  of  perpetual  snow.  Kven  in  tli»  hottest 
weather  experienced  on  these  plains,  it  makes 


one  feel  chilly  to  look  at  them,  they  are  so  coiJ, 
cheerless  and  forbidding. 

In  the  hills  we  have  just  passed,  there  is  an 
abundance  of  game,  such  as  mountain  sheep, 
bear,  antelope,  and  an  occasional  mountain  lion, 
while  Dale  Creek  and  all  the  little  brooks  wliich 
flow  into  the  South  Platte  River  are  filled  with 
trout.  The  speckled  beauties  are  not  found 
however,  in  the  streams  which  flow  into  the 
North  Platte.  This  is  a  well-entablished  fact, 
and  we  have  yet  failed  to  discover  any  satisfac- 
tory reason  lor  it,  though  some  of  these  brooks, 
flowing  in  o]>posite  directions,  head  not  more 
than  fifty  yards  apart. 

Hl,ull  hwhH. — These  rocks,  found  near  Dal« 
Creek,  are  excellent  samples  of  the  granite  r'>rks 
which  are  so  abundant  in  this  section,  and  show 
how  they  bear  the  effects  of  the  severe  weather. 
All  the  nias.sive  rocks,  which,  like  the  ruins  of 
old  castles,  are  seattered  all  over  the  Hiack  Hills, 
were  once  angular  in  form,  and  square  masses, 
which  in  time  have  been  worn  to  their  present 
forms  by  the  disintegrating  effects  of  the  atinos- 
phfM'e. 

Tit'-SifIl»ff.—')')').2  miles  from  Omaha;  ele- 
vation, 7,  J)8.')  feet.  This  is  a  teiegrai)h  station, 
A  well-worn  and  ninth  tiaveled  ioa<l  leads 
hencH  across  the  prairie*  southward  to  the 
mountains  of  Diamond  Peak.s,  in  the  neigh- 
horliood  of  which  are  obtained  ties,  fence- 
[K)les  aiu?  wood.  There  are  a  few  houses, 
and  the  inevitable  saloon — houses  occupied  most 
ly  hy  woodchoppers  anil  teamsters — while  the 
saloons  j.'enerally  take  the  most  of  their  money. 
A  «li')rt  (iistanei-  from  this  station  two  a<i|diers 
of  an  lo-va  cavalry  regiment  were  kil!-d  by  In- 
dians at  the  overland  singe  station,  in  1H{'..',.  The 
pine  lioaid  ami  mound  whiej)  m^itks  th"ir  testing 
place  will  s«wn  disappear,  and  lliere  will  be  noth- 


FMs  i^diCiFiG  Totmisr. 


em,  they  are  so  coiJ, 

t  pasRed,  there  is  an 
as  niouiitain  slieep, 
ioiial  mountain  lion, 
e  little  brooks  which 
tiver  are  filled  with 
ties  are  not  found 
•hich  flow  into  tiio 
jfell-fNtahlished  fact, 
iscovcr  any  satisfac- 
5me  of  these  brooks, 
•i»8,  head  not  more 

■ks,  foimd  near  iMl;: 
of  the  (ifranite  neks 
is  section,  and  show 
the  Severn  woathfr. 
h,  like  flic  inins  of 
ver  the  Kiack  Hills, 
and  square  masses, 
•rn  to  tlioir  jnesent 
effects  of  the  atmos- 

from  Omaha ;  ele- 
i  telegiapli  station, 
ivi'Ifd     road    leads 
south  ward   to    tl»e 
»ks,  ill   the   neigh- 
lined     ties,    fence- 
le    a    few   liouses, 
uses  occupied  most- 
msters—while  the 
isf  of  fiii'lr  money, 
'ation  two  lushJic'rs 
Wfre  kill'd  bv  ln- 
HoM.  in  \m:,.   'The 
•■itk*  lh"ir  lestinij 
tliere  will  be  notli- 


ing  left  to  mark  the  spot  where  they  fell.  Near 
Tie-Sidinjf  are  extensive  ranciies  occuined  by 
sheep  duriujj  tiie  summer.  The  general  (iir<!ction 
of  the  traveler  is  now  north.  In  fact,  after  leav- 
ing Dale  Creek  bridge,  you  turn  towards  the 
north,  and  contir.ue  in  that  direclior,,  souu'times 
even  making  a  little  east,  until  you  pass  Kock 
Creek  Station,  a  distance  of  about  seventy  miles 
by  rail.  We  have  now  fairly  entered  upon  the 
great  Laramie  Plains.     The  next  station  is 

JIarnet/, — simply  a  side  track,  mQM  miles 
from  the  eastern  terminus,  with  an  elevation  of 
7,857  feet.  We  are  going  down  grade  now  pretty 
fast.  The  old  stage  road  can  be  seen  to  the  left, 
and  the  higher  mountains  of  the  Medicine  liow 
Range  shut  in  the  western  view. 

Ued  HatfeM, — near  the  base  of  the  western 
slope  of  the  Black  Hills — is  50:1.8  milo:i  from 
Omaha;  elevation,  7,:>:J(i  feet.  So-called  from 
the  reddish  color  of  the  Buttes  between  Harney 
and  this  place,  on  the  right  side  of  the  track. 
This  re«l  appearance  of  the  soil  on  both  hill  and 
plain,  indicates  the  presence  of  iron.  It  would 
seem  that  at  some  remote  period  the  whole  valley 
was  on  a  level  with  the  top  of  these  Buttes,  and 
they,  comi)osed  of  harder  and  more  cohesive  sub- 
stance than  the  .soil  around,  have  withstood  tiie 
drain  and  wash  of  ages,  while  it  has  settled 
away.  They  are  of  all  sorts  of  shap:'s.  The 
nearest  about  half  a  mile  from  the  tr^ck,  and  ex- 
cite no  little  iut'M-est  from  their  peculiar  forms, 
in  the  mind  of  the  traveler  who  is  at  all  curious 
on  such  subjects ;  some  of  them  are  isolate<l, 
and  I  hen  again  you  will  see  them  in  groups. 
There  are  quite  a  number  insight  from  the  car 
windows,  and  thei.  close  insju'ction  would  war- 
rant the  tourist  in  stopping  at  Laramie  and 
m-tking  them  and  other  objects  in  the  vicinity  a 
visit,  lied  Buttes  is  a  telegraph  station,  witn  a 
few  settlers  in  the  neighlw)rhood.  These  i>lains 
have  been  called  the  paradise  for  sheep;  but  of 
this  subject  we  will  speak  in  another  place. 

Fort  SaiHlcrM, — .")70.:i  miles  fmm  Omaha; 
elevation  7,103  feet.  This  is  a  station  for  the 
military  i^ost  which  was  established  here  in  June, 
1800,  by  Col.  H.  M.  Mizner  of  (he  IStli  Cnited 
States  Infantry.  Its  liuildings  for  lK>fh  ollicers 
and  men  are  mainly  of  logs,  and  many  of  them 
are  hnih  s\ibstantial  and  comfortable.  The  jtost 
can  be  seen  from  a  long  distance  in  every 
direction ;  it  close  to  the  track  and  on  the  old 
military  road  leading  across  the  Bl.ick  Hills  l>y 
way  of  Cheyenne  Pass  to  Fort  Walbach  at  the 
eastern  base  of  the  hills,  now  abandoned,  and  to 
the  military  jwsts  nea-  Cheyenne.  It  will  pirob- 
ablv  be  abandoned  in  a  short  time. 

Lm'tnnie — is  572.8  miles  from  Omaha,  and 
7,12;}  feet  abovt^  the  sea.  It  is  thi^  end  of  a  divi- 
sion of  the  I'liion  Pacitie  llailroiid,  one  of  tli 
largest  towns  ui<  the  road,  lias  large  maehiue  and 
repair  shops,  and  is  likely  to  become  the  lorg&s 
city  on  the  road  in  Wyoming,     It  is  located  o' 


f      ^4 


I 


84 


rmm  F.^€iwt€  wou^i^w. 


!i'  • 


ih 


n 


tho  Laroniio  Bivor,  \\  tho  midst  of  thoLaramio 
Plains,  has  fully  3,000  people,  is  tho  county- 
scat  of  Albany  County,  has  numerous  churches 
and  schools,  several  i)ublic  buildings,  brick  and 
stono  blocks,  with  streets  regularly  laid  out  at 
right  angles  to  the  railroad;  is  ik'cU  watered 
from  ono  of  tho  mountain  streams  in  tho  vicin- 
ity, and  altogether  is  ono  of  the  most  promis- 
ing towns  on  the  line  of  tho  road.  It  is  called 
tho  *'  Oem  City  of  tho  Mountains,"  and  its  alti- 
tude and  closo  proximity  to  the  hills  behind  it 
give  it  a  fair  show  for  tho  name.  Tho  rolling 
mills  of  tho  company,  giving  employment  to 
from  200  to  UOO  men,  aro  located  and  in  opera- 
tion bore,  in  the  northern  limits  of  the  city. 
The  water-power  in  tho  Laramie  Bivcr  will  also 
soon  be  utilized  in  the  erection  of  woolen  mills 
and  factories  for  refining  soda  and  other  min- 
erals with  which  *liis  country  abounds.  Tho 
mineral  resources  of  Wyoming  have  not  been 
developed.  The  slight  cxiilomtions  which  Lave 
tl'  us  far  been  mado  only  demonstrate  the  fact 
of  their  existenco  in  untold  quantities.  Lara- 
m'>.  for  instance,  has  within  a  radius  of  thii-ty 
miles  the  following  named  minerals:  Antimony, 
cinnabar,  gold,  silver,  copper,  lead,  plumbago, 
iron,  red  hematite  iron,  brown  hematite,  specu- 
lar iron,  sulphate  of  soda,  gypsum,  kaolin  or 
f>oraelaia  clay,  fire  clay,  brick  clay,  coal,  sand, 
imastona,  fine  quality;  sandstone  for  building 
purposas  within  two  miles  of  the  city,  and  good 
wa7oa  roads  to  all  the  places  where  these  ma- 
terials are  found. 

Sherp  Itaislnff, — ^Wo  have  before  remarked 
that  tho  Laramio  Plains  are  n.  paradise  forKlv.iep. 
But  tlie  sheep  require  hay  and  shelter  i.i  urdiT 
to  bj  successfully  carried  through  tlio  storms 
of  wiater.  It  is  also  true  that  this  hay  mav  not 
b3  needed,  or  but  a  little  of  it  used,  but  every 
jn'oparatioa  for  H^rety  ivqair-s  that  ih  should  hi 
oa  hand  to  bo  used  if  necessary.  Tiio  winter 
is  rare  indeed,  in  this  locality,  that  makes 
twenty  successivG  days'  f^HHling  a  nccwiaity. 
Usually  the  storms  hvst  tw.>  or  tur.'j  days,  per- 
liaps  not  as  loag,  whea  hay  and  shelUT  ar> 
require.l.  Tae  climat»>  is  Uealtky,  und  Si'i'm^ 
ospjcially  alaptt^dto  sh'Vf-.  If  biou  jht  hcia 
in  a  souad  a.i  I  healthy  ooaJitiou,  tliey  v  111  ro- 
mx'ia  so  with  orilinary  cir*-,  au.l  tho  ciiiuat,^ 
aloncf  liis  been  elTiM-tuivl  ia  furiag  som  •  of  tii  ■ 
disjases  ta  which  tliey  uvj  Bubj(!ct.  Amon.rtii. 
shopherl  kia'j;s  oi"  the  plains  may  bo  UK>nti«»»'d 
tho  firm^  of  Huttoa,  Akop  &  Co. ,  King  ic  Latie, 
Bum^ay  &  Cj.,  T.  J.  Fislicr  &  Co.,  an. I  citteis 
The  firm  first  named  have  about  1IS,(K)J  i  i  their 
flock,  and  have  aorommodatious  at  taoir  differ- 
ent ranches  for  20.  iM)  J  saeo,^).  TlitiV  plao*  this 
number  as  the  limit  of  their  fiock.  Th.nr 
iiotne  ranch  i.«  oa  tiie  Laramio  Iliver,  alK)ut 
flitoen  miles  from  tliu  city,  an  I  is  worthy  of  a 
visit  from  any  traveler  who  de.sirns  information 
on  thj  subject.     Their  ahoop  arj  divided  into 


flocks  of  about  2,500  each;  this  numlier  ia  all 
that  can  bo  well  cared  for  in  a  flock.  One 
man,  a  pony,  and  ono  or  two  good  shep- 
herd dogs  ore  nil  that  are  nocessai-y  to  care 
for  a  flock,  though  some  flocks  are  cared 
for  without  tlie  pony  or  dogs.  Mexican 
herders  or  shepherds  are  considered  the 
best,  and  usually  cost  about  823  per  month 
and  board.  They  aave  long  been  accus- 
tomed to  tho  business  in  New  Mexico, 
and  the  most  of  them  don't  know  enough 
to  do  anything  else.  Tho  wool  of  graded 
sheep  will  usuallv  more  than  pay  nil  the 
expenses  of  the  flock,  leaving  tlie  incroaso 
as  dear  profit,  and  tho  increae*?  depends 
to  a  large  extent  on  how  well  ii.a  flock 
is  managed — it  is  ordinarily  eighty  per  cent. 
Some  have  had  an  increase  of  tu^ir  flocks 
as  large  as  ninety  per  cent.,  others  ns  low 
ns  sixty  per  cent.  Homo  of  tho  successful 
sheep  men  have  begun  tlieir  flocks  with 
Spanish  Merinos,  othei-s  Avith  French  Merinos, 
others  with  Cotswolds,  and  othera  still  with 
Mexican  sheep.  Those  last  aro  very  hardy, 
have  small  bodies  and  coarse  wool.  Tho  ewes 
are  usually  prood  mothei-s,  and  all  of  them  will 
hunt  and  dig  through  tho  snow  for  grass, 
whUo  other  breeds  would  not.  Mexican  sheep 
M'ill  livo  and  thrive  where  tenderly  raised 
Eastern  sheep  will  die.  They  are  cheap 
and  easily  graded  up.  On  the  other  hand, 
when  onco  acclimated,  graded  slieep  cost 
no  more  cai'a  than  others,  and  their  wool 
will  bring  double  tho  price  in  tho  mar- 
ket. Each  class  of  sheep  has  its  advocates 
oa  these  plains,  and  each  class  has  been  suc- 
cessful. The  cliuiato  of  tho  country,  and  the 
peculiar  adaptation  of  the  plains  for  grazing  of 
tliis  11  iture,  makes  success  more  certain  than  in 
similar  atterai)t3  farther  east;  hence  we  predict 
for  this  i)art  of  tho  country  a  vast  wealth  in 
lloeks  of  sheep  at  ao  distant  date. 

ShH-k  Statinth'H. — Tho  total  numl)er  of 
stofk  ra/ing  ou  the  plains  of  Laramie  County 
at  itKst  estimate  (ISSO)  was  as  follows:  Sheep, 
iad,ftA)  heml,  worth  8),  value,  gJOD.OOL) ; 
Ikotwd  cattle,  110,000  head,  worth  820,  value 
*4.4.H).lKMi;  horses  and  laulos,  4,200  head, 
iw*rtl.  5^)0  value,  8iiO,000.     Total,  !i?.i,770,000. 

Etrly  TitiU'H.-  Ia  April,  1H(;S,  the  l-rst  town 
loU  la  Lai'aniio  wero  sold  by  tho  railnjad  com- 
pany. There  was  a  (treat  rush  for  town  lotn — 
exfitemt>nt  ran  \ory  high,  and  the  history  of 
Cheyonno  i.i  this  rospect,  whore  men  ma<le  for- 
tunes in  a  day,  man  r 'poatod  hero.  In  fact, 
a  laoutli  or  two  prior  to  the  beginning  oi 
tho  salu,  t'ao  ti»*.i  site  was  covo'ed  wi  h 
wa;^ons,  tents,  dugouts,  ete.,  of  parties  waiti'jf,' 
f>>r  tho  dav  of  sale.  With  that  sale,  t'ao  sot- 
tleineut  of  the  town  Ixifrau.  The  first  work 
there  w<fS[o  over  four  hundred  lots  sol  1.  an(l 
buikJxAg  Itejjou  rapivlly.     In  less  thou  two  weeks 


'■^ 


rms  fi^ciFic  roimiST. 


86 


tliis  numlier  13  nil 
r  in  a  flock.  Quo 
r  two  pooil  shop- 
nocessaiy  to  oaro 
I  flocks  aro  carod 
r  dogs.  Mexican 
e  considered  tlio 
ut  825  per  month 
long  been  nceus- 
in  New  Mexico, 
jn't  know  enough 
0  wool  of  graded 
than  pay  all  the 
ving  the  incrcatu} 
incroae<?  depends 
w  well  U.3  flock 
f  eighty  por  cent. 
80  of  ti;Mr  flocks 
it.,  others  as  low 
of  tho  snccessfid 
their  flocks  Avith 
li  French  Merinos, 
i  othera  still  with 
b  ore  ver-y  hardy, 
o  wool.  Tho  owes 
ad  all  of  them  will 
3  snow  for  grass, 
t.  Mexican  sheep 
o  tenderly  raised 
They  are  cheap 
.  the  other  hand, 
•aded  sheep  cost 
,  and  tlieir  wool 
'ice  in  tho  niar- 
lias  its  advocates 
lass  has  boon  auc- 
country,  and  tlio 
ains  for  grazing  of 
ore  cort(un  than  in 
hence  wo  predict 
a  vast  wealth  in 
date. 

total    numl)er   of 

Laramie  County 

8  follows:  Sheep, 

value,     8300,  OOU  ; 

worth  820,  value 

lies,    4,2U0    lioad, 

T<>t.al,  «^,770,0()0. 

SiW,  tlio  llrst  town 

tho  raiirtjid  com- 

ih  for  town  lotn — 

lid  tho  history  of 

TO  nion  made  far- 

d  li(>ro.     In  fact, 

Hio  beginning  01" 

covt!i(nl    wi  li 

i>f  parties  waiti'jg 

hat  sale,  tlio  sot- 

Tlio  first  wock 

d   lots  soil,  and 

9H  than  two  weeks 


wim'^thing  over  500  buildings  and  structures  of 
som !  kind  hail  hw.u  erected.  This  was  an  ex- 
ftiiiple  of  western  growtli  that  would  astoiii-sli  the 
slow-goiiig  deiiizrtiis  of  thj  Atliiiitiu  States.  It  is 
true  these  structures  were  of  a  peculiar  character, 
and  such  as  were  usually  touud  in  the  towns  tor 
tit  >  tims  b:ntig  made  the  business  terininiM  of  the 
road.  Some  were  of  los"-,  ,...r-.  of  cross-ties,  others 
were  simply  four  posts  <''t  in  tue  k"  ii"d  with  can- 
vas sidws  and  roofs.  »;thers  still  were  made  of 
boards,  in  sections,  and  easy  to  be  moved  when 
the  next  terminus  should  be  made  known. 

The  iron  rails  that  were  soon  to  bear  the  iron 
horse  were  laid  post  the  town  on  the  9th  day  of 
May,  1808,  and  on  the  day  following,  the  first 
train  arrived  and  discharged  its  ticight.  Lara- 
mie maintained  the  character  of  all  these  west- 


who  were  respectable,  and  who  desired  tv»  do  a 
legitimate  bu.sin<'s,s  could  not  endure  loi  »  long 
tinii',  the  presence  and  lasealilies  o|  these  burd'-r 
characters.  There  being  no  law  in  toree.  the 
next  best  thing  was  a  resort  to  "  lynch  law." 
This  was  the  exp-rience  ol   Laramie. ' 

Laramie  is  now  an  orderly,  well-governed  city, 
inhere  tlio  rights  ol  person  and  pioperty  are  re- 
spected, and  forcibly  reiiiiiids  one  nt  the  <iiiii't 
towns  in  the  East.  All  saloons  and  other  njaees 
of  like  character,  are  closed  on  the  Sabbath,  tho 
churches  are  well  attended,  and  the  stch.iola  are  lib- 
erally patronized.  It  is  one  of  the  most  attrac- 
tive towns  on  the  line  of  the  Union  Pacitio 
road,  and  offers  many  advantages  to  those  who 
desire,  for  any  reason,  a  cliaiige  of  location. 

In  addition  to, other  public  institutions   else- 


EARLY  MORNIMO  8CKNB 

«rn  towiio  m  tho  early  days  of  th'^ir  s^ttlem=!ut. 
Th^  sams  class  of  human  beings  that  had  popu- 
lated and  depopulated  North  Platti,  Jiilesnurg. 
Ch'iveiuie,  and  other  places,  lived  and  floiirishe<l 
hne  until  th-?  next  move  wjis  ma'lo.  They  were 
gamblers,  thieves,  prostitutes,  murderers — bad 
mm  and  worn  mi  of  every  caliiiig  and  description 
uiiii  'X  the  heavens,  tiiid  fi*oin  almost  every  nation- 
ality on  the  glob'i — and  when  th"V  could  prey 
up  in  no  oiifl  else,  would,  as  a  matt-r  of  course, 

firey  upmi  each  otli -r.  Tiv'  worst  that  has  ever 
laen  written  of  these  eliiiraeters  docs  not  depict 
tin  whole  truth  th 'v  were,  in  naiiy  eases,  out- 
laws from  th  ^  Kast— flee  io  eseaynj  the  conse- 
quMiees  of  cim 's  eoinniitted  th're.  and  each 
min  was  a  law  unto  himself,  t'-med  to  th(^  vi-ry 
ceeth,  it  was  simply  a  wonJ  nod  a  shot,  and 
many  lime.i*  the  shot  came  firsi..     Of  course  those 


0»  THE  LAKAMI  !  Pt.AIKS. 

where  mentioned,  Laramie  has  tho  location  of 
the  territorial  penitentiary,  a  small  wing  of 
M'hieh  is  already  constnicted,  and  >^hich  is 
plainly  visible  oiiiy  %  short  distance  west  of  the 
railroad  track.  .i  g»)i>d  hotel  is  kept  at  the 
old  ilej^Kit.  For  yetu-s  it  was  a  re^uliir  dining 
station,  and  is  still  one  ol  the  mo.st  important 
and  intHrMsling  places  on  the  Omaha  idiite, 
but  tli'^  liuiiiij;  station  has  lecfiitiy  been  tians- 
ferred  to  Kcwk  Creek,  tvilv-tv\o  mile.,  fan  her 
west,  the  belLei  t'>  aoeoin»n >date  tin-  hour  of  din- 
ing to  til"  v/ant«  of  truvelors.  With  a  manu- 
factory tor  stnla,  aad  the'  mines  of  this 
article  projicrly  develoixvl,  l4uraniio  will  sup- 
ply the  w^crld  with  soua  luou'th  %o  raisi;  not 
only  biscuits  and  breail,  btit  no  small  fium  if 
money  aa  a  return  for  tho  invostmcnt.  Tho 
rolling  milln  and  -rawk-hine  and  rppair  shops  of 


h^'  1 


I-? 

r 


''\ 


I 

^■'  .  1  'I 


m  'I- 


i?J. 


86 


FJTJr  ^;§CiFiC  TQVmtST, 


the  company  fti'«  sources  of  perpetual  trade  and 
income,  and  must  of  necessity  increase  witli  the 
annually  increasing  business  of  the  company.  A 
visit  to  the  soda  lakes,  i^old  mines,  Iron  Mount- 
ain, lied  Buttes  and  other  places  of  interest  in 
the  vicinity,  together  with  gooil  hotel  accommo- 
datioiis,  will  sure- 
ly lure  the  trav- 
eler to  spend  a 
few  days  in  this 
•'  Gem  city  of  the 
Mountains." 

L  a  r  a  in  i  e 
Peak. — This  is 
"b »  highest  t»eak 
of  the  Black  Hills 
Range  in  Wyom- 
ing and  Colorado, 
north  of  Long's 
Peak,  and  is  about 
10,000  feet  high. 
The  Hayden  ex- 
ploring party, 
who  were  en- 
camped at  its 
base,  desoribe  wit- 
nessing a  sunset 
scene  of  rare 
beauty.  The  sun 
passed  down  di- 
rectly behind  the 
summit  of  Lara- 
mie Peak.  The 
whole  range  of 
mountains  was 
gilded  with  a 
golden  light,  and 
the  haziness  c  f  the 
atmosphere  gave 
to  the  whole  scene 
a  deeper  betiutv. 
The  valleys  at  the 
base  of  the  Cotton- 
wooJ  and  Laramie 
River.t  are  full  of 
pleasai.'t  little 
streams  and 
grassy  plains. 
Sometimes  these 
vall«-ys  expand 
out  into  beautiful 
oval  park-like 
areas,  v/hich  are 
favorite  resorts  of 
wild  jrame,  and 
would  be  exceedinsjly  desirable  for  settlements. 
Einiorrants  would  find   hero   beautiful   scenery, 

fnu"  air  and  water,  and  a  mild  find  e?ctremely 
lealthy  climatt'.    Cereals  and  kkh  -  vxnM  be  easily 
raised,  and  stock-riiisiiiLr  could  be  made  a  source 
of  wealth  to  them  and  the  wuole  community. 
The  WiHflinills  of  the  Uniitn    I'nvi/ic 


UUNTINU   I.N   THE   BUCKV  MUl'N'TAINg. 


Railway.  — The  traveler  notices  with  interest 
the  ever  frequent  windmills  which  appear  at 
every  station,  and  are  such  prominent  objects 
over  the  broad  prairies.  They  are  used  for  sup- 
plying the  locomotives  and  station  houses  with 
water.    Probably  no  finer  specimens  exist  in  the 

Uiiited  States  than 
are  found  on  the 
lines  of  this  road. 
In  these  tanks 
is  a  large  hollow 
globe  floating  in 
the  water.  These, 
globes  are  so  con- 
nected with  lev- 
ers that  when  the 
water  has  reached 
a  certaii;  height, 
the  slcts  or  fans 
are  thrown  in  line 
with  the  wind,  and 
the  machine  stops. 
As  the  water  is 
drawfl  off  for  sup- 
plying the  locomo- 
tives, the  ball  falls, 
and  the  machine 
is  again  put  in  mo- 
tion. They  are 
thus  self-regula- 
ting and  self-act- 
ing. The  water  is 
thrown  up  by  a 
forcing  pump.  A 
curious  fact  may 
be  here  mention- 
ed. These  tanks, 
when  closely  cov- 
ei-ed,  have  til  us  far 
proved  that  there 
i-*  enough  caloric 
in  the  water  to 
prevent  it  from 
freezing. 

Wind  Hiver 
MoHiitaius. — 
'•"aese  mountains, 
seen  on  the  niiip 
and  just  north  of 
the  railroad,  are 
destined  soon  to 
celebrity,  for  their 
mining  value,  al- 
thouph  as  yet  but 
partially  explored. 
Two  well-known  peaks  rise  among  them,  Fre- 
mont's Peak  and  Snow's  Peak,  the  latter  being  the 
hifjhest;  its  elevation  isgiven  by  Fremont  as  lli.oTO 
feet.  The  mountains  are  filled  with  a  dense 
growth  of  a  species  of  the  nut  pine,  which  fur- 
nishes food  for  innumerable  birds  and  squirrels, 
and  supplies  the  Indians  with  their  favorite  foml. 


TMM  fiiiCIFI€  FQimiST. 


Indian  Burial  Tree. — Among  tho  Indian 
tribes  there  are  quite  a  number  whose  custom  is 
to  lienor  their  dead  with  burial  places  in  tiie  tops 
of  favored  trees.  The  Coinanches,  Apaches, 
Cheyennes,  Arrapahoes  and  Kiowas  all  do  this. 
After  an  Indian  is  dead,  his  corpse  .s  securely 
wrapped  like  a  muinm^ ;  with  it  are  put  food, 
ann-«,  tobacco,  etc., — which  its  spirit  is  lupposed  to 
want  in  his  trip  to  the  happy  liuntin.'?  fi^round,— 
and  the  wliole  covered  with  an  outer  covering 
made  of  willows.  All  tho  Indians  of  the  tribe 
celebrate  mourning  both  beforo  and  after  this  is 
done ;  then  the  body  is  placed  upon  a  platform, 
constructed  in  some  old  tree,  usually  a  large  cot- 
ton-wood. The  feet  of  the  departed  Indian  are 
turned  with  cire  to  the  southward,  for  thither 
resides  the  Great  Spirit, — so  the  Indians  say — 
and  thither  he  is  going.    In  some  of  their  favor- 


Wvoming.  They  are  really  the  first  range  of 
the  Uoekies.  rfiey  befiii  at  tiie  valU-y  of  the 
iVorth  I'Jatte  Hirer,  diij-clly  south  ot  tort  Fet- 
tennaii,  muI  unite  with  the  iMedicine  How  Hnngc 
in  northern  Colorado,  soiith-wt'st  from  irhernian 
Laramie  Teak  and  Heed's  I'eak,  noitli  o"  the 
Laramie  Canon,  arc  the  highest  peaks  in  this 
ra'nge.  The  waters  winch  How  from  tlirin  ca;  t  n 
the  Itlaok  Hills,  and  those  which  (low  west  from 
the  iMedicine  IJow  Kange,  all  unite  in  the  iNorth 
Platte  iliver,  which  describes  a  half  circle  around 
their  northern  extremity,  and  tlien  flows  east- 
ward to  the  Missouri  River.  This  range  ot 
mountains,  as  before  stated,  is  crossed  at  Sher- 
man. They  have  not  been  prospected  to  any 
great  extent  for  tho  precious  metals,  but  goldf, 
silver,  copper,  iron  and  other  minerals  are  known 
to  exist.     Iron  is  found  in  large  quantities. 


INDIAK  BUniAL  TREE,  KEAB  FORT  LARAUIE. 


ite  groves,  as  many  as  eight  or  ten  bodies  have 
been  found  in  a  single  tree.  Another  mode  of 
burial  is  to  erect  a  scaffold  on  some  prominent 
knoll  or  bluff.  These  customs  are  prevalent 
among  those  Indian  tribes  which  are  most  rov- 
iiisr,  and  live  in  tho  saddle.  •'  Foot  Indians," 
those  which  inhabit  ihi  plains,  and  are  peacaliln, 
most  invariably  bury  tlwir  rji-ad  in  tho  ground — 
always,  however,  acco-njianied  with  siieh  good 
things  as  he  will  netul  in  his  trips  thereafter  in 
tilt!  new  hunting-grounds. 

The  mack  JfillH  of  Wyominff,  and  the 
Mcdielne  How  Bange. — In  going  west,  tho 
first  range  of  real  mountains  the  traveler  meets 
with   are  what  are  called  the  Blaek   Hills  of 


About  18  miles  north-east  from  Laramie  is  Iron 
Mountain,  on  tlie  head  of  Chiigwater  Creek.  It 
is  said  to  be  nearly  pure,  and  will  some  day  bo 
developed.  There  has  been  talk  of  a  railroad 
from  Cheyenne  with  a  brancli  to  this  nioniitpin, 
but  nothing  has  been  done  vet  In  s"arrliiii'» 
for  a  route  for  the  Union  l^cific  Railway,  a 
survey  of  the  Laiaiiiie  Caiioii  was  made,  but 
it  was  found  to  Ik;  iinpracticahle  for  a  railroad. 
It,  however,  has  grand  seeii'-ry,  and  will  become 
a  place  of  resort,  by  tourists,  as  soon  as  the  In- 
dian question  is  settled.  The  Rlaek  Hills  virtu- 
ally connect  with  tho  Medicine  Row  Range  at 
both  extremities,  bearing  to  the  left  around  the 
circle  of  the  North  Platte,  and  to  the  right  south 


TMM  PACIFIC  TOUmiST. 


■A«V(;-,fH      i 


V,,i 


KXDIOINE  BOW  MOUNTAINS,  FROM  MEDICINE  BOW  RIVEK. 


of  Sherman.  The  canons  of  both  the  Larnniio 
and  Platte  Ilivei-s  are  ruf^gerl  and  ^and.  Lara- 
mie Peak  has  an  elevation  of  10,000  feet,  and 
lies  in  plain  view  off  to  the  right  from  Lookout 
to  Medicine  Bow  Stations. 

Crossing  the  Black  Hills,  the  road  strikes  the 
Laramie  Plains,  and  then  the  Medicine  Bow 
Range  rises  grandly  before  you.  At  Laramie 
City — the  road  running  north — you  IcMik  west 
anti  behold  Sheep  Mountain  in  front,  whose  sum- 
mit is  10,000  feet  above  the  sea ;  to  the  loft  of 
this  is  Mt.  Agassiz.  so  named  in  hojjor  of  tlm 
distinguished  scientist  who  gave  his  lite- to  the 
cause  he  loved  so  well.     To  the  right  of  Sheep 


Mountain,  which  is  in  tho  Medicine  bow  Range, 
vou  discover  what  sec^uis  to  be  a  large  dt;i)ressioii 
in  the  mountains.  This  is  where  tho  Little  Lara- 
mie River  heads,  and  across  it,  to  tho  right,  still 
other  peaks  of  this  range  lift  their  snowy  heads. 
The  range  is  now  on  your  left  until  you  pass 
around  its  northern  bend  and  into  the  North 
Platte  Valley  airain  at  Fort  St(!i>le.  On  the 
northern  extnnnity,  Klk  Mountain  l(M)ms  up,  the 
best  view  of  wiiicli  can  \w  obtained  as  you  pass 
from  Medicine  Bow  Station  to  Fort  Steele,  pro- 
vided, of  course,  you  look  when  the  foot  hills  do 
not  obscure  your  vision.  The  Medicine  Bow 
Range  is  also  full  of  the  precious  metals,  mostly 


TMM  ff^ciFia  rotmisr. 


8*.» 


gold,  but  has  not  boon  clovclop;Hl.  This 
range  la  also  heavily  timboivd,  and  abounds 
in  garao,  and,  except  the  liighost  p^nikn,  is 
free  from  snow  in  the  summer.  The  tiinb(>r 
is  mostly  pine,  and  immense  quantities  are 
annually  cut  for  railroad  ties,  ti'lcftraph  and 
fence  poles  and  wood.  Nearly  every  rancdi 
on  the  Laramio  Plains  is  supplied  with  ))olo8 
for  corrals,  sheds  and  f jnees  from  tho  Black 
Hills  or  Modicino  Bow  Range.  Tlio  Lara- 
mio Plains  is  tho  groat  basin  between  those 
two  ranges,  and  tho  road  has  to  i)ass  north- 
ward a  long  distanco  in  order  to  find  its 
way  out.  The  only  marble  yet  discovered 
in  tho  Western  country  ot  i'lud  value,  so 
far  as  we  know,  is  tho  deposit  owned  by 
tho  Wyoming  Marble  Company,  and  located 
twenty-five  miles  north  of  Laramio  City, 
twelve  miles  from  tho  lino  of  tJio  Union 
Pacific  Bailway.  Tho  lodgo  is  eighty  feet 
wide,  lias  been  traced  for  ton  miles  on 
its  surface,  and  prospected  to  a  depth  of 
one  hundred  feet  Avithout  reaching  bot- 
tom. Leaving  the  grand  views  of  tlioso 
mountains,  iho  traveler  enters  upon  a  vast, 
dreary  and  unproductivo  waste — fitlv  called 
a  desert.  Still  its  rough  and  broken  ap- 
pearance, with  rocks,  hills,  and  mountains 
on  citlier  side,  affords  a  strange  and  i)lenHant 
relief  from  the  dull  monotony  of  tlie  eastern 
plains. 

Loaving  Laramio  City,  tho  track  passes  close 
to  the  company's  rolling  mills.  We  soon  cross 
tho  Laramie  River  on  a  wooden  truss  bridge, 
aud  run  along  near  its  banks  to 

Howell, — which  is  a  side  track,  eight  miles 
from  Laramie,  and  580.8  miles  from  Omaha; 
elevation,  7,090  feet.  Passing  over  the  plains, 
walled  in  by  mountaiuQ  on  either  side,  we  ntach 
the  next  station, 

Wf/omluff, — over  fifteen  miles  from  Laramie, 
and  588.4  miles  from  Omaha;  elevation,  7,068 
fet't.  Having  reached  tho  highest  altitude  on 
tlie  line  of  the  road  between  the  two  oceans,  at 
Sherman,  you  see  v/e  are  now  going  down  hill 
a  little,  and  from  thij  time  until  we  cross  the 
Sierras,  there  will  be  a  constant  succession  of 
"ups  and  downs"  in  our  journey.  Wyoming  is 
on  tlie  Little  Laramie  Iliver,  which  empties  into 
the  Laramie  Iliver  near  the  station.  It  is  a  tele- 
graph station  with  a  few  houses  in  the  vicinity 
— in  the  midst  of  a  fine  grazing  country,  with 
slioep  \nd  cattle  ranches  in  sight.  Leaving 
VVyoiaing,  the  aspect  of  the  country  soon 
changes.  A  bluff  on  tho  right  lies  near  the 
track,  the  country  becomes  more  undulating  as 
we  pass  on,  and  the  grass  seams  to  grow  thinner 
except  on  the  bottom  near  the  stream.  Sage 
brush  and  greasewood,  well  known  to  all  frontier 
men,  begin  to  appear.  We  have  seen  a  little  ot 
sagre  brush  before  in  the  vicinity  of  Julesburg, 
and  Sidney,  and  now  strike  it  again. 


Cooper'H  Laki;—i>[)S.it  miles  from  Omaha, 
witii  an  t'li'vatiini  ot  7,011  feet  It  is  a  telegraph 
station  with  the  usual  sidt!  track  and  seetion- 
houses.  The  station  is  named  from  the  little 
lake  near  by,  which  can  best  be  seen  from  tlie 
cars  at  the  water  tank,  beyond  the  station.  It 
isn't  much  of  a  .ak(!,  nor  can  much  of  it  be  seen 
trom  the  car  windows.  The  water  is  said  to 
look  very  green  in  the  summer,  and  to  differ  but 
little  in  apj)earance  from  the  green  grass  which 
surrounds  it.  The  lake  itself  is  about  half  a 
mil>i  wide,  and  a  mile  and  a  half  long,  and  about 
two  miles  from  the  track,  though  it  does  not 
seem  half  that  distance.  It  is  fed  by  Cooper  and 
Dutton  Creeks,  but  has  no  visible  outlet. 

Lookout,— (H)7A\  miles  from  Omaha,  and 
about  thirty-five  nines  Horn  Laramie ;  elevation, 
7,10y  feet.  The  road  left  wliat  may  be  called  the 
Laramie  bottom  at  the  last  station,  and  now 
winds  through  a  rolling  countrv,  which  soon  be- 
comes rough  and  broken,  with  the  sage  brush 
constantly  increasing.  Notice  the  cliaiigea  in 
the  elevation  as  you  pass  alontr. 

Miser,— Qlo.9  miles  from  Omaha ;  elevation, 
6.810  feet.  Near  here  coal  has  been  found. 
It  is  in  the  vicinity  of  Rock  Cieek,  which  is 
said  to  be  the  eastern  rim  of  tho  coal  fields 
discovered  on  this  elevated  plateau,  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  Continent.  From  the  last  station 
to  this,  and  beyond,  you  have  fine  and  con- 
stantly changing  views  from  the  moving  train, 
of  Laramie  Peak,  away  off"  to  the  right,  and 
of  IClk  Mountain  to  the  left.  Sage  brush  is 
the  only  natural  production  of  the  soil  in  this 
region,  and  is  said  to  be  eaten  by  antelope  and 
elk  in  the  absence  of  grass  or  anything  better. 
It  is  also  said  that  slieep  will  feed  upon  it, 
and  that  wherever  antelope  live  and  flourish, 
sheep  will  do  likewise. 

Rork  Vi-ei'k, — so  called  from  a  creek  of  the 
same  name,  which  the  road  here  crosses;  624.0 
iniliis  f;,)in  Omaha;  elevation,  3.0!K)  feet.  This 
is  a  regular  eating  station,  instead  of  Laramie. 
The  dining-room  is  beautifully  decorated  with 
flowers,  vines  and  horns  of  game,  a  pretty 
Hay  window  with  blooming  flowers  and  walls 
covered  with  vines,  and  the  display  of  hanging 
baskets. 

Rock  Creek  rises  in  tho  northeastern  peaks 
ot  tho  Modicino  Bow  Range,  and  runs  in. 
tliat  direction  to  this  station,  near  which 
it  turns  toward  tho  west,  and  unites  with 
Modiciuj  Bow  River,  uoar  3Iodicino  Bow 
Station. 

Stages  depart  from  Rock  Crook  daily  for  Forts 
Fettorman,  Mt^Kinney,  Custer,  Keogli,  and  all 
Ijoints  in  tho  Big  Horn  an  I  Yellowstone  regions. 

Wilrox. — A  side  track  for  tlu  passing  of 
trains,  G32.3  miles  from  Omaha,  au.l  7,033  foot 
above  tho  sea.     Tho  next  station  is 

Aarorn. — This  station  was  formerly  named 
Como,    after    Lako    Como,     which   tho    rail- 


-m 


9U 


TME  l^stCiFtC  TOVmiST. 


.'.:!i     !:! 


road  here  paHses.  One  peculiarity  of  this  lake 
M  that  it  i«  near  Rock  Crock — .separated  from  it 
\>y  a  ridge  of  IuIIh  etitimatcd  at  'HM  fuut  high, — 
with  no  visible  outlet.  The  station  is  UlO.'i 
miles  fi-om  Umalia,  and  0,(i8()  feet  alx^ve  the 
sea.  The  lake  has  been  estimated  to  he  *JlM) 
feet  above  the  surface  of  llock  Creek,  from 
which  it  is  separated  as  above  stated.  It  is 
fed  by  warm  springs,  which  also  supply  the 
water  tank  of  the  company  at  the  station.  In  a 
cold  day  the  steam  fram  these  springs  can  be 
Been  at  som?  distance.  It  is  also  a  great  resort 
for  duck.s,  and  sportsmen  can  obtain  fine  shooting 
here  in  the  proper  season.  If  lizards  are  fish 
with  legs,  then  we  have  fisli  with  legs  abounding 
in  this  liike  and  vicinity.  These  animals  are  from 
6  to  18  inches  in  length,  with  a  head  a  good  deal 
like  that  of  a  frog,  and  tufts  or  tassels  where  the 
gills  would  be  on  a  fish.  They  have  four  legs  and 
crawl  around  to  a  certain  extent  on  the  land. 
There  are  two  kinds  of  these  lizard.s,  one  differ- 
ing from  the  other  in  size  and  color  more  than 
in  shapi!,  and  either  kind  are  devoured  by  the 
ducks  when  they  can  be  cauq^ht.  Tiie  lake  is 
about  one  mile  wide  in  the  widest  place,  and  two 
and  a  half  miles  long. 

Valliiff  of  the  Chuff  water.  —  The  Chug- 
water  Valley  is  about  100  miles  long.  It  has 
been  for  many  years  a  favorite  locality  for  winter- 
ing stock,  not  only  on  account  of  the  excellence  of 
the  grass  and  water,  but  also  from  the  fact  that 
the  climate  is  mild  throughout  the  winter.  Cat- 
tle and  horses  thrive  well  all  winter  without  hay 
or  shelter.  The  broad  valley  is  protected  from 
strong  cold  winds  by  high  walls  or  bluffs.  The 
soil  everywhere  is  fertile,  and  wherever  the  sur- 
face can  be  irrigated,  good  crops  oi  all  kinds  of 
cereals  and  hardy  vegetables  can  be  raised  with- 
out difficulty. 

In  this  valley  and  near  the  source  of  the 
Chugwater,  are  thousands  of  tons  of  iron  ore, 
indicating  dejwsits  of  vast  extei  t  and  rich- 
1.  ,88,  which  can  be  made  easily  aoc«i.ssiblo  wIkmi- 
ever  desirable  to  construct  a  railroad  to  Mon- 
tana. 

Merllcine  How — is  0 17.3  miles  from  Omaha ; 
elevation,  G,.')50  feet.  The  river,  from  which  the 
station  is  named,  was  crossed  a  short  distance 
before  we  reached  the  station.  It  rises  directly 
south,  in  the  Medicine  Bow  Mountains,  and  runs 
nearly  north  to  the  place  where  it  is  crossed  by 
the  railroad,  after  which  it  turns  toward  the 
west  and  unites  with  the  North  Platte,  below 
Fort  Steele. 

Thcro  is  a  ronndhotiso  of  fivo  stalls,  in  which 
engines  ore  kept  to  assist  trains  up  and  down 
tho  steep  grades  between  hero  and  Carbon.  It 
wa.s,  until  recently,  tho  point  from  which  a  largo 
quantity  of  military  supplies  for  Fort  Fottor- 
man  and  other  posts  was  distributed,  but  tho 
transfer  now  takes  place  mainly  at  llock  Crook. 
Thero  arc  one  or  two  stores,  with  tho  iaovitablo 


heycanii' 
three  and  four 


saloon  and  several  dwellings,  in  tho  vicinity. 
There  is  a  gcMtd  wagon  road  from  this  place  io 
Fort  Fettermaii,  di.ntance  ninety  miles,  and  it  is 
by  far  the  nearest  route  to  the  gold  fields  in  the 
Black  Hills  of  Dakota,  for  passengers  and  miners 
from  the  West.  The  Indians  were  disinclined  to 
leave  this  region  and  even  now  hardly  kii 
to  give  it  up.  In  tho  summer  of  1875,  th 
here  and  stole  a  herd  of  between 
hundred  horses  that  were  grazing  on  Kock  Creek, 
it.  Don't  they  kill  and  scalp  a  white  man, 
when'ar  they  get  the  better  on  him?  The  mean 
varmints,  they'll  never  behave  themselves  until 
you  give  'um  a  clean  out  and  out  licking.  They 
can't  onderstand  white  folks'  ways,  and  they 
won't  learn  'um,  and  ef  you  treat  um  decently, 
they  think  you're  afeard.  You  may  depend  on't, 
Cap.,  the  only  way  to  treat  Indians,  is  to  thrash 
them  well  at  first, 

Medicine  Bow  ia  ia  the  midst  of  a  rough, 
broken  country,  over  v.hich  millions  of  antelope 
and  jack  rabbits  roam  at  pleasure.  When  the 
road  was  built  here  immense  quantities  of  ties 
and  wood  were  cut  in  the  mountains  south,  and 
delivered  at  this  place. 

CuHonitiett  of  Indian  IJfe  and  Char- 
acter.— The  entire  country,  from  North  Platte 
over  as  far  as  tho  western  border  of  Laramie 
Plains,  has  been  for  years  the  roving  ground  of 
the  Indians,  of  whom  we  could  tell  many  inter- 
esting facts  respecting  their  life  and  the  curious 
interviews  the  overland  scouts,  trapjiers,  etc., 
have  had  with  them.  To  a  man,  every  scout  will 
unite  in  denunciation  of  their  treachery.  Jim 
Baker, — an  old  Rocky  Mountain  trapper, — once 
told,  in  his  characteristic  manner  the  following, 
to  General  Marcy : 

"  They  are  the  most  onsartainest  varmints  in 
all  creation,  and  I  reckon  thar  not  mor'n  half 
human ;  for  you  never  seed  a  human,  arter  you'd 
fed  and  treated  him  to  the  best  fixins  in  your 
lodge,  just  turn  round  and  steal  all  your  horses, 
or  anything  he  could  lay  his  hand  on. 

"  1^0,  not  adzackly !  he  would  feel  kinder  grate- 
ful, and  ask  you  to  spread  a  blanket  in  his  lodge 
if  ever  you  passed  tnat  way.  But  the  Indian, 
he  don't  care  shucks  for  you,  and  is  ready  to  do 
you  a  heap  of  mi.schief  as  soon  as  he  quits  your 
feed.  No,  Cap',"  he  continued,  "it's  not  the 
right  way  to  give  *um  presents  to  btiy  peace ;  but 
ef  I  was  governor  of  these  veer  United  States, 
I'll  tell  you  what  I'd  do.  I'd  invite  'um  all  to  a 
big  feast,  and  make  believe  I  wanted  to  have  a 
big  talk,  and  as  soon  as  I  got  'um  all  together,  I'd 

Eitch  in  and  scalp  half  of  'um,  and  then  t'other 
alf  would  be  mighty  glad  to  make  a  peace  that 
would  stick.  That's  the  way  I'd  make  a  treaty 
with  the  dogond,  red-bellied  varmints ;  and,  as 
sure  as  you're  Iwrn,  Can.,  that's  the  only  way. 

"  It  aiii'  no  use  to  talk  almut  honor  with  them, 
Cap. ;  they  hain't  got  no  such  thing  in  'um  ;  and 
they  won't  show  fair  fight,  any  way  you  can  fix 


rms  9;MCiFtC  TOV^tST. 


n 


r»,  in  tho  vicinity. 
Irunt  til  is  pince  io 
iH'ty  iiiilcH,  and  it  ix 
f  guld  flelda  in  tlii> 
HMenfjers  nuil  ininciH 
)  were  diHinclinod  to 
iw  liurdly  Iciiow  liow 
•  of  1875,  tlieyeanii^ 
'een  tliree  and  fuiir 
zing  on  Kock  Creek, 
all)  a  wrii'tu  man, 
II  iiini?  Tlie  mean 
'e  tliemHelves  until 
out  licking.  Tliey 
8'  ways,  and  tliey 
treat  um  decently, 
in  may  depend  on't, 
diann,  is  to  tiirash 

oaidst  of  a  rough, 
iiillions  of  anteloDH 
3asure.  When  the 
I  quantities  of  ties 
untains  south,  and 

lAfe  and  Char- 

from  North  Platte 
border  of  Laramie 
I  roving  ground  of 
id  tell  many  inter- 
fe  and  tlie  curious 
its,  trapficrs,  etc., 
in,  every  8Cout  will 
r  treachery.  Jim 
lin  trapper, — onco 
ner  the  following, 

linest  varmints  in 
ir  not  mor'n  half 
luman,  arter  you'd 
I'st  fixins  in  your 
li  all  your  horses, 
ind  on. 

feel  kinder  grate- 
anket  in  his  lodge 

But  the  Indian, 
nd  is  ready  to  do 
1  as  lie  quits  your 
ed,  "it's  not  the 
to  buy  peace ;  but 
er  United  States, 
nvjte  'um  all  to  a 
vanted  to  have  a 
m  all  together.  I'd 

and  then  t'other 
imke  a  peace  that 
I'd  make  a  treaty 
'armints;  and,  as 
<  the  onlv  way. 
honor  with  them, 
hing  in  'um  ;  and 
way  you  can  fix 


t 


Indian  observatlonn  on  the  character  of  the 
Am'M-ican  and  EiigliHh  people,  are  often^  pretty 
g(M)d.  An  Indian  once  describing  to  an  Knglisli- 
man  the  characteristics  of  the  different  iK>ople 
iiu  knew,  said  as  follows,  most  naively : 

"King  George  man,  (Knglish^  very  good; 
Itostoninan,  (American)  good;  Julin  Chinaman, 
ii>>t  good;  but  tho  black  man,  /<«  no  better  than  a 

>l'>!h" 
They  are  particularly  curious  alxiut  negroes, 

na  they  do  not  feel  certain  whether  the  black 

gees  all  through.     tSfime  years  ago,  a  party  of 

negroes  escaping  from  Texas,  were  captured  by 

Komo  of  the  Coinaiicli(!S,  who  scraped  their  xkia  to 

utile  thu  i/ueatiun. 

Cttrttoitt — 6.'»»..">  miles  fmm  Omaha,  with  an 
elevation  of  6,750  feet.  A  station  of  great 
prominence  for  coal  mining.  Population  700. 
This  is  the  first  station  on  the  line  of  the 
road,  where  the  company  obtains  a  supply 
of  coal.  A  shaft  about  120  feet  deep  lias 
l)een  sunk,  and  veins  of  coal  oiiened  about 
six  feet  thick.  The  coal  is  hoisted  to  the 
surface  by  means  of  a  stationary  engine,  and 
dumped  into  cars  by  means  of  chutes,  or  into 
large  bins  from  which  it  is  taken  to  supply 
passing  engines.  From  50  to  150  men  aiu 
•  riiployed  in  these  mines,  and  a  good  many 
of  them  live  in  Imard  shanties,  adobe  houses,  and 
dug-outs  along  the  side  of  the  track.  The  coal 
is  mostly  used  by  the  company — but  little  being 
sold  as  it  is  not  as  good  for  domestic  purtx)S(ts  as 
the  coal  found  at  Rock  Springs.  Leaving  Car- 
Ikiii  we  pass  through  a  rugged  country,  with 
scenery  sufficiently  attractive  to  keep  the  traveler 
on  the  constant  lookout,  to 

Siinifann, — a  side  track,  with  section-house, 
00:^.5  miles  from  Omaha,  and  an  elevation  of  0,898 
fuet.  Passenger  trains  do  not  stop  and  on  we 
goto 

iVrcj/,— 008.1  miles  from  Omaha,  and  O.O.'iO 
feet  above  the  sea.  From  Simpson  to  this  sta- 
tion, you  can  obtain  the  finest  view  of  Elk 
••'ountain  on  the  left.  We  have  not  been  able 
'  ascertain  its  elevation,  but  its  comparative 
•i  irt  distance  from  the  road  causes  it  to  look 
^<  :li  and  grand.  It  can  be  seen  from  a  long  dis- 
t;.i  ce,  either  east  or  west,  and  is  the  noted  jieak 
of  the  Medicine  Bow  Range.  It  seems  to 
jut  out  from  the  main  ridge,  and  looking 
from  the  west,  stands  in  Iwld  relief  against 
the  sky.  The  station  is  named  in  honor 
of  Colonel  Percy,  who  was  killed  here  by  the 
Sioux  Indians,  when  the  road  was  being  sur- 
veyed. At  this  station  passengers  who  desire 
to  visit  Elk  Mountain,  and  the  region  in  its  im- 
iMi'diate  vicinity  will  leave  the  cars.  During 
tlie  construction  of  the  road  large  quantities  of 
\vood  and  ties  with  timber  for  bridges,  were  cut 
ill  the  mountains  and  foot  hills,  and  hauled  to 
litis  station.     At  the  foot  of  Elk  Mountain  stood 


Fort  Ilalleck  now  abandoned,  and  a  station  of 
the  Overland  Stage  Company.  There  were  many 
skirmishes  with  the  Indians  in  this  vicinity  in 
those  days,  and  now  and  then  you  will  be  able  to 
find  an  old  settler  who  will  entertain  you  for 
hours,  in  the  recital  of  wild  adventures  and  hair- 
breadth  escapes.  A  visit  to  tho  site  of  the  old 
fort  and  the  region  of  country  around,  together 
with  a  close  view  of  the  grand  scenery  of  the 
mountains,  will  amply  repay  tho  traveler  for  his 
time  and  money.  About  four  miles  south  of 
Percy,  fine  veins  of  coal  were  discovered  in  1875, 
but  tlu.'y  have  not  been  opened  or  tested.  One 
is  nine  and  the  other  over  twenty  feet  in  thick- 
ness. Notice  a  suggestive  sign  as  you  i)ass  the 
station.  It  is  "  Bowles's  Hotel,"  and  of  course, 
indicates  that  everything  is  perfectly  "straight" 
within. 

South  of  this  station  there  is  some  very  fine 
grazing  land,  mostly  in  tho  valleys  of  the  little 
streams  that  head  in  the  Medicine  Bow  Range, 
and  flow  westward  into  the  North  Platte  River, 
and  a  considerable  quantity  of  hay  is  cut  during 
favorable  seasons. 

A  1'HHotiH  and  Erciting  Itare.—En' 
cineere  have  told  of  a  curious  scene  on  the  Pacific 
Railroad  not  far  from  the  Laramie  Plains,  of  a 
race  between  the  locomotive  and  a  herd  of  deer. 
At  daybreak,  the  locomotive,  with  its  long  train 
of  carriages  and  freight  cars,  entered  a  narrow 
valley  or  gorge,  where  runs  quite  a  rivulet  of 
clear  and  cold  mountain  water.  On  the  banks 
of  this  stream  a  large  herd  of  red  deer  were 
standing,  occasionally  lapping  the  refresh- 
ing element.  The  timid  creatures,  startled  by 
the  presence  in  their  midst  of  the  "  ircii  horse,^' 
knew  not  what  course  to  pursue  in  order  to  get 
away  from  it.  The  engineer,  to  add  to  their 
evident  perplexity,  caused  the  whistle  to  send 
forth  its  loudest  and  most  discordant  shriek. 
This  was  enough  for  the  deer.  'Jo  get  beyond 
reach  of  this  new  enemy,  they  started  up  the 
road,  taking  the  course  the  locomotive  was 
pursuing.  The  race  became  exciting.  It  was  a 
superb  trial  of  steam  and  iron  against  muscle 
and  lung.  The  engineer  "  put  on  steam,"  and 
sent  his  locomotive  with  its  burdensome  train, 
whirling  along  the  track  ;  but  for  many  miles — 
six  or  seven  it  was  estimated — the  frightened 
animals  kept  ahead,  fairly  beating  their  antago- 
nist. At  last  the  pursued  and  pursuer  got  into  a 
more  open  country.  This  the  deer  perceiving, 
they  sprang  on  one  side,  and,  with  unalwted 
speed,  ran  to  a  safe  distance,  where  beyond  reach 
'of  locomotive  or  rifle,  they  stood  and  gazed  with 
dilated  eyes — their  limbs  trembling  from  un- 
usual exertion,  and  gasping  for  breath — at  their 
fast  receding  enemy. 

Danii — is  the  next  station — simply  a  side 
track.  It  is  074.2  miles  from  Omaha ;  elevation, 
0,875  feet.  The  rugged,  brokrii  character  of  the 
country  with  cuts  for  the  track,  and  fills  in  the 


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DEER  RAGE  WITH  TRAIN  ON  THE  U.  P.  R.  R. 


valleys,  will  interest  the  observing  tourist  if  he 
passes  by  in  daylight. 

Editon — 680  miles  from  Omaha,  with  an 
elevation  of  6,751  feet.  It  is  a  telegraph  sta- 
tion with  accompanying  side  tack,  section-house, 
etc.  From  this  station  to  the  next,  the  bluffs 
are  rugged  and  wild,  the  road  passing  through  a 
short  tunnel  and  several  deep  cuts.  There  is 
nothing  but  the  changing  scenei-y  as  you  move 
along  with  the  train,  to  relieve  this  country  from 
its  desolate  appearance.  Sage  brush  and  grease- 
wood  continue  to  be  the  only  prvoducts  of  the  soil. 

WiUcott, — a  side  track  089.5  miles  from  the 
Missouri  River,  and  6,800  feet  above  the  sea. 
After  leaving  this  station,  the  road  winds  around 
the  bluffs,  passing  through  some  very  deep  cuts, 
near  one  of  which  there  is  a  stone  quarry  from 
which  stone  is  taken  by  the  company  for  road 
purposes  at  Green  River.  A  side  track  to  the 
quarry  has  been  laid  and  stone  easily  loaded  on 
the  flat  cars  used  for  their  transportation.  Sud- 
denly bm-sting  through  one  of  these  cuts  we 
enter  the  valley  of  the  Platte,  throuffh  what  is 
called  Rattle  Snake  Pass,  by  the  railroad  men, 
and  arrive  at 

Fort  Steele,  —  which  is  695.3  miles  from 
Omaha,  122.5  miles  from  Laramie,  and  has  an 
elevation  of  6,810  feet.  It  is  a  telegraph  station,^ 
and  the  site  of  the  government  post  of  the  same 
name.  We  cross  North  Platte  River  just  before 
arriving  at  the  station,  and  are  4,051  feet  higher 
than  wh<*n  we  crossed  tiie  same  stream  at  North 
Platte  City,  near  the  junction  of  the  two  Plattes 
in  the  State  of  Nebraska.  Fort  Steele  was 
established  on  the  last  day  of  June,  1868,  by 


Col.  R.  T.  Dodge,  then  of  the  Thirtieth  United 
States  Infantry.  It  is  considered  a  good  strate- 
gic point,  as  well  as  a  convenient  base  of  supplies, 
in  case  of  a  v.ampaign  a^rainst  the  Indians.  Thu 
buildings  are  mostly  of  logs,  and  none  of  them 
very  comfortable.  In  1875,  the  government  fin- 
ished a  fine  stone  hospital  building  here.  'J'iie 
station  also  does  consideiable  government  busi- 
ness, and  there  i^  a  government  dejwt  for  receiv- 
ing and  storing  supplies  near  the  track.  The 
valley  of  the  North  Platte  at  this  upper  cross- 
ing is  quite  narrow,  without  the  broad  and 
fertile  bottom-lands  we  were  accustomed  to  see 
below  as  we  whirled  along  its  banks.  From  the 
head  of  this  river  in  the  North  Park  of  Colorado, 
to  a  point  as  far  down  as  Fort  Laramie,  its  route 
desciibes  the  form  of  a  horseshoe.  Its  tributa- 
ries from  the  east  mostly  rise  in  the  Medicine 
Bow  Range,  and  flow  westward.  They  are 
principally  Douglas  Creek,  Fresh  Creek,  Brush 
Creek,  Cedar  Creek,  Spring  Creek,  and  Pass 
Creek.  They  are  beautiful  streams  with  fine 
grass  valleys  and  partially  wooded  banks.  Its 
tributaries  from  tne  west  are  Beaver  Creek, 
Grand  Encampment  Creek,  Cow  Creek,  Hot 
Spring  Creek,  Jack  Creek,  and  Sage  Creek. 
Hot  Spring  Creek  is  so  named  from  the  hot  sul- 
phur springs  which  are  found  near  its  mouth. 
All  the  streams  which  rise  in  the  Medicine  Bow 
Range,  and  flow  into  the  North  Platte,  show  tho 
"  color  "  of  gold  where  they  have  been  prospected, 
and  some  rich  diggings  are  said  to  have  been 
discovered  at  the  head  of  Douglas  Creek.  We 
believe  it  will  not  be  long  before  the  Medicine 
Bow  Mountains  will  develop  into  a  rich  mining 


II 


93 


country.  The  waters  of  tlie  Hot  Springs  re- 
feired  to  are  claimed  to  possess  reniiukable  me- 
dicinal virtues,  and  are  fiom  40  to  45  miles  from 
Foit  Steele,  up  the  rij;ht  bank  of  the  river. 
Tlie  wondeis  of  even  tliese  desolate  plains  do 
not  begin  to  be  known,  and  when  tliey  are  fully 
realized,  the  world  will  be  astonished  at  the 
results.  About  three  miles  west  of  Foit  Steele 
is  the  site  of  Benton — the  town  that  was — now 
wholly  abandoned.  For  a  short  time  it  was  the 
business  terminus  of  the  road,  while  its  construc- 
tion was  going  on,  and  possessed  all  the  charac- 
teristics of  t!ie  railroad  towns  in  those  days.  At 
one  time  it  had  a  ix)pulation  estimated  as  high 
as  five  thousand  souls.  Old  iron  barrel  hoops, 
rusty  tin  cans,  a  few  holes  in  the  ground,  a  few 
posts  and  stumps,  and  nearly  or  quite  a  hundred 
nameless  graves  in  close  proximity,  are  all  that 


perior  satisfaction  it  would  give.  The  railroad 
reached  and  passed  Benton  in  July,  1808.  The 
valley  of  the  N.  Tlatte  River  begins  to  be  occu- 
pied by  cattle  men,  as  stock  can  be  carried 
tlirough  the  severest  wititers,  thus  far  experienced, 
without  hay.  It  has  superior  advantages,  not 
only  for  grazing,  but  its  numerous  "draws" 
or  ravines  afford  friendly  shelter  in  case  of  storms. 

View  on  the  North  J^latte,  near  Fod 
Fred  Steele. — The  Platte  River  here  is  over 
700  miles  from  its  mouth  near  Omaha,  and  has  an 
elevation  of  0,845  feet.  Upon  i\\c  plains  it  was 
a  wide,  shallow  stream,  with  sand-bars  and  shift- 
ing currents.  Here  it  is  a  deep,  clear,  cold  stream, 
and  but  little  distant  from  its  source  among  the 
perpetual  snow  banks  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

Grenuville — is  the  net  station,  703.7  miles 
from  Omaha  with   an   elevation  of  6,500  feet 


VIEW  ON  THE  PLATTE, 

now  nmain  to  mark  the  place  where  Benton 
was.  It  grew  in  a  day,  and  faded  out  of  sight  as 
quickly.  But  it  was  a  red-hot  town  while  it 
lasted.  A  death,  sometimes  two  or  three  of 
them,  with  corresiwnding  burials,  was  the  morn- 
ing custom.  Whisky  was  pi-eferred  to  water  be- 
cause it  was  much  easier  to  obtain,  and  unre- 
strained by  civilized  society  or  wholesome  laws, 
the  devil  in  men  and  women  had  full  sway,  and 
made  free  exhibitions  ot  his  nature.  The  town 
was  three  miles  from  the  North  Platte  River, 
where  all  the  water  was  obtained  and  hauled 
in,  price  ten  cents  per  bucket,  or  one  dollar 
per  barrel.  In  that  town,  a  drink  of  regular  old 
"tangle-foot"  whisky,  at  "two  bits"  (twenty- 
five  cents)  would  last  a  good  deal  longer  thtan 
a  bucket  of   water,  to  say  nothing  of  the  su- 


NRAR  FOitT  FRED  STEELE. 

above  the  sea.  It  is  simply  a  side  track  for  the 
meeting  and  passing  of  trains.  Passenger  trains 
seldom  stop.  The  next  station  and  the  end  of 
a  subdivision  of  the  road  is 

liawliUH, — named  in  honor  of  Gen.  John  A. 
Rawlins,  General  Grant's  chief  of  staff  and  his 
first  secretary  of  war.  The  springs  near  here 
bear  the  same  name,  but  it  has  been  incorrectly 
spelled,  heretofore.  This  station  is  137.9  miles 
from  Laramie,  and  710.7  mi'es  from  Omaha.  It 
has  an  elevation  of  6,732  ^eet.  We  are  going  up 
hill  again.  The  town  '»a^  a  population  of  over 
1,503  souls,  n,  larjje  number  of  whom  are  railroad 
employes.  The  company  has  erected  a  hotel  for 
the  use  of  its  employes  and  the  traveling  public, 
and  has  a  roundhouse  and  machine-shops  which 
are  kept  pretty  busy  in  the  repair  of  engines. 


II 


w:j^. 


M' 


f4  II 


:  1  •■   v. 


94 


!  d 


yi^ 


Tho  wat?r  uaod  by  cnginos  on  this  division  is 
strongly  impregnated  with  alkali  and  other  snb. 
stances,  ^7hlch  form  B-jalos  on  tho  inside  of  thf 
boiler  and  adhere  to  th  3  flues.  The  engines  arc,' 
therefore,  carefully  watched,  and  every  pre^ 
caution  taken  to  guard  against  accidents.' 
North  of  the  town  is  what  might  be  called,  in 
soma  countries,  a  mountain.  Near  tho  east 
end  ot  this  mountain  valuable  beds  of  red 
hematite — iron  ore — have  been  found.  Thi? 
ore  is  very  pure,  and,  when  ground,  makes  a 
very  hard  and  durable  paint  It  is  said  to  be 
■water  and  fire-prpof  when  used  in  sufficient 
quantities.  The  dark  red  freight  and  flat  cars 
which  you  sae  on  tho  line  of  the  road  belong, 
ing  to  the  company,  havo  been  painted  with 
this  material.  There  aro  two  mills  hora  for 
the  manufacture  of  this  paint.  Forty  miles 
due  north  from  Bawlins  are  the  Ferris  and 
Seminol  i  mining  districts.  South  of  Bawlins, 
about  sixty  miles,  in  the  Snake  River  Region, 
are  fine  grazing  fields,  already  occupied,  to  a 
certain  extent,  by  cattle  men.  A  colony  of 
farmers  and  n'iners  from  tho  vicinity  of  Den- 
ver, Col.,  have  settled  in  that  region,  and  more 
are  constantly  going  in.  About  a  mile  ond  a 
half  from  Bawlins,  cast,  is  a  large  sulphur 
spring.  This  spring  is  almost  unnoticed,  be- 
cause unknown.  The  springs,  frequently  al- 
luded to  as  Bawlins  Springs,  are  on  the  left  of 
the  track,  and  a  little  west  of  tho  town.  Iron, 
sulphur  and  magnesia  predominate  in  these 
waters,  the  latter  reaching  the  high  tempera- 
ture of  130  degrees.  A  few  buildings  of  rather 
inferior  quality  have  been  erected  for  the 
accommodation  of  visitors.  Good  fishing  and 
hunting  are  side  attractions  hero.  Tho  small 
creek  which  passes  through  tho  place  is  known 
as  Separation  Creek,  and  empties  into  the 
North  Platte  Biver  north  of  Fort  Steele. 
There  are  also  immense  beds  or  lakes  of  soda, 
tributary  to  this  station,  somo  of  which  is 
nearly  pure.  Bawlins  is  in  the  midst  of  a 
broken,  d(^solate  country,  and  depends  upon 
railroad  importations  for  nearly  everything 
upon  which  its  people  live,  though  there  is  a 
fine  country  reported  both  north  and  south. 
In  addition  to  the  other  buildings  named,  it 
has  the  usual  quantity  of  saloons,  together 
with  several  stores,  at  which  a  thriving  trade 
is  done. 

To  tlie  Big  Horn. — At  Bawlins  you  can 
ordinarily  meet  several  old  trappers  or  scouts 
who  have  been  in  the  Big  Horn  region,  and 
who  declare  the  route  from  here  to  bo  superior 
to  any  other.  These  men  havo  led  European 
hunting  parties  in  that  direction,  and  the 
English  nobility,  especially,  always  come  back 
wildly  enthusiastic  and  glutted  with  glories  of 
the  chase.  Aside  from  the  reputation  of  the 
Big  Horn  region  as  a  golden  mecca  for  tho 
miner,  wo  can  again  say  from  personal  knowl- 


edge, that  tho  country  is  prolific  in  boautifnl 

and  fertile  valleys,  in  vast  and  unexcelled  stock 

ranges,  in  magnificent  scenery,   and  is  alivo 

with  largo  and  small  game.     Following  aro 

distances  and  camping  places  on  one  of  tho 

Bawlins  routes.    The  last  125  miles  is  lincnl 

with  good  camp  grounds.  wLns. 

From  nawllns  to  Trown'g  Cafion  \i 

"  Brown's  Caflon  to  Seminole 23 

•<  Seminole  to  Sand  Creek 10 

"  Band  Creek  to  Sweetwater  Biver 15 

••  Sweetwater  Biver  (bridfiod ,  to  Battlesnake  Bango.  16 

"  Acro88  Range  to  Poison  Bprlngs  Creek g 

"  Poison  Springs  Creek  to  Cloud  Peak Va 

Total 203 

Ponies  and  outfitting  goods  of  all  descrip- 
tions can  1)0  purchased  at  Bawlins,  and  parties  in 
Heed  of  a  good  guide  should  always  look  up  Tom 
Sun  an  old  hunter  and  government  scout,  who 
knows  the  country  thoroughly,  and  is  just  tho 
man  to  chaperon  a  hunting  ov  exploring  party. 
His  address  is  BawUns. 

Solon. — A  side  track  nearly  seven  miles  from 
Bawlins,  and  716  miles  from  Omaha;  eleva- 
tion, 6,821  feet.  Heavy  grades  now  for  quite  a 
distance. 

Separettion. — One  would  naturally  suppose 
from  the  name,  that  the  waters  flowing  east  and 
west,  divided  or  sepa'oted  here,  but  such  is  not 
the  fact.  It  is  reported  that  a  party  of  eiigineeis 
who  were  surveying  and  locating  the  road, 
separated  here  to  run  different  lines — hence  the 
name.  It  is  a  telegraph  station,  724.1  miles  from 
Omaha,  and  6,900  feet  ibove  the  level  of  the 
sea.  The  artesian  well  at  this  station,  which 
supplies  the  water  tank  is  860  feet  deep.  U'hu 
wat«r  from  these  wells  ii  not  always  pure — fre< 
quently  having  a  brackish  or  alkali  taste. 

Fillmore, — named  in  honor  of  a  former  di. 
vision  superintendent  of  fhe  road,  now  in  tlie 
stock  business,  with  rancho  at  Wyoming.  It  is 
731.6  miles  from  Omaha;  elevation,  6,885  feet. 
Simply  a  side  track  in  the  midst  of  a  barren, 
broken  country. 

Creston, — 738.6  miles  from  the  eastern  ter- 
minus  of  the  road,  and  7,030  feet  above  the  sea. 
It  is  a  telegraph  station,  with  the  usual  side 
tracks  and  section-house.  Three  miles  fartiier 
west,  and  we  reach  the  summif^^  of  the  divide 
which  separates  the  waters  of  the  two  oceans. 
This  is  tlie  crowning  ridge  in  the  backbone  of  the 
Continent,  and  a  desolate  place  it  is.  It  is  the 
summit  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  "What  was 
this  countiy  made  for?" — We  asked  a  fellow- 
traveler.  "To  hold  the  rest  of  it  together"—- 
was  the  ready  reply.  That  is  good ;  the  best 
reason  for  its  existence  we've  had.  It  is  of  some 
use  after  all.  Allowing  60  feet  grade  for  the 
three  miles  west  of  Creston,  to  the  actual  sumniil 
of  the  divide,  and  we  are  then  1,122  fe«t  lower 
than  at  Sherman.  It  is  true  there  are  no  loftv 
peaks  here,  with  snowy  crests  the  year  roi>!<'l, 
out  an  immense  roll,  over  which  we  glid*  anH 


TMB  ffsiCiF£€  F&^^ISr. 


9S 


never  think  tliat  we  are  crossing  the  siiiiiinit  of 
the  rock-ribbed  Rockies.  At  tliif  divide  a  short 
distance  north  of  the  trjvck,  a  pole  was  once 
erected  with  a  Hag  to  mark  the  spot,  but  it  lias 
fallen  before  the  fierce  gales  which  sweep  over 
tills  elevated  ridge,  and  which  seem  to  have  with- 
ered everything  they  touched.  Standing  on  the 
rear  platform  jf  the  train,  looking  east  you  notice 
the  undulations  of  the  road  as  it  passes  beneath 
you  ;  Elk  Mountain  of  the  Medicine  Bow  Range, 
and  the  far  distant  Black  Hills  rise  grandly  in 
view  as  you  approach  the  crest,  but  suddenly  you 
have  passed  to  the  other  side,  and  a  stretch  of 
country  two  hundred  miles  long  drops  from  your 
view  in  an  instant.  On  this  part  of  the  road  the 
most  difficulty  with  snow  is  usually  experienced 
in  the  winter.  There  is  a  constant  breeze  here, 
and  frequent  storms,  though  a  few  miles  farther 
it  may  be  clear  and  pleasant.  In  the  great  snow 
blockade  of  the  winter  of  1871-2,  the  telegraph 
poles  were  frequently  buried  in  the  drifts.  The 
Western  Union  Company  had  their  wires  ele- 
vated on  poles  planted  in  the  snow  in  several 
{tiaces,  to  keep  them  above  the  drifts.  In  that 
)lockade,  the  worst  ever  known  since  the  road 
was  built,  there  were  seventeen  days  without 
trains.  Since  then  the  track  has  been  raised, 
snow  fences  planted,  sheds  erected  and  every  pos- 
sible appliance  used  to  insure  the  safe  and 
speedy  passage  of  trains.  Looking  again  to  the 
north  you  can  see  the  snowy  heads  of  the  W  iud 
itiver  Mountains,  with  the  peak  named  after 
Fremont,  the  gallant  Path-finder  of  the  West, 
towering  against  the  sky.  Notice  the  dark 
shades  of  the  timber  lines  as  they  press  against 
the  eternal  snows  with  which  they  are  covered. 
Looking  forward  to  the  west,  if  you  have  a 
chance.  Pilot  Butte,  north  of  Rock  Springs,  one 
of  the  great  landmarks  of  the  plains,  is  clearly 
visible.  To  the  south  you  behold  the  mountains 
where  the  tributaries  of  the  Snake  River  rise, 
and  whence  they  flow  into  the  Pacific  Ocean.  No- 
tice ounorth  tign-honrdt  "Continental  DiViDE." 

LatUam,  —  746.1  miles  from  Omaha,  and 
6,900  feet  above  the  sea.  Passenger  trains  do 
not  stop  as  it  is  only  a  side  track.    On  we  go  to 

Wanhakie, — so  called  after  a  Shoshone  chief, 
reputed  to  be  friendly  to  the  whites,  whose  tribe 
fights  'ihe  Sioux  when  thnre  is  opportunity. 
Here  ib  an  artesian  well,  033  feet  deep,  flowing 
bOO  gallons  per  hour. 

Ited  Desert. — The  country  near  is  reddish 
in  appearance,  but  the  place  is  named  alter  the 
Reil  Desert,  near  which  is  an  immense  basin  of 
its  own,  similar  to  the  Salt  Lake  basin.  It  lies 
500  feet  below  the  level  of  the  countiy,  lias  no 
outlet,  and  extends  from  the  South  Pass  on  the 
north,  to  Brid<ver's  Pass  on  the  south,  and  east 
from  summit  of  the  divide  to  Tipton  on  the  west, 
a  very  singular  depression  right  on  the  divide  of 
the  Continent.  The  little  stream  just  seen  before 
reaching  this  place,  flows  south  and  is  lost  in  this 


basin.  The  country  near  is  alkali,  and  subject 
to  high  water  and  heavy  rains,  giving  great  diffi- 
cultv  to  preserve  the  security  of  road-bed  and 
track.  Station  is  703  miles  from  Omaha;  ele- 
vation 0,710  feet. 

Tipton, — a  side  track  for  meeting  and  pass- 
ing trains.  It  is  700.0  miles  from  the  "  Big 
Muddy,"  with  an  elevation  of  6,800  feet.  We 
have  been  going  up  hill  again — leaving  the  val- 
ley of  the  Snake  River.  The  snows  of  winter 
leave  heavy  drifts  along  here,  but  the  railroad 
men  have  learned  by  experience  how  to  manage 
them  quite  successfully.  When  the  drifts  have 
reached  the  top  of  the  fences  in  height,  they  go 
along  and  raise  the  fences  to  the  top  of  the  drifts, 
fastening  them  as  best  they  can  in  the  snow. 
This  they  rejieat  as  often  as  necessary,  and  thus, 
tlie  snow,  in  many  instances,  is  kept  away  from 
the  track,  but  the  drifts  become  pretty  high. 

Table  liock, — named  from  a  rock  resembling 
a  table  south  of,  and  about  six  miles  from  the 
station.  It  is  770.3  miles  from  Omaha,  and 
0.890  feet  above  the  sea — is  a  telegraph  station. 
There  is  a  ^ong,  evenly  cut  bluff  south  of  the 
track,  estintated  to  be  COO  feet  in  height.  On 
what  appears  to  be  the  north-west  corner  of  this 
bluff  a  square,  table-like,  projection  i"ises — the 
tab'r! — and  presents  a  very  odd  ap^warance.  It 
can  be  seen  for  quite  a  distance,  as  you  look  to 
the  left  from  the  cars.  The  table  projects  altout 
60  feet  above  the  bluffs  adjoining,  though  it  does 
.not  seem  half  that  distance.     Next  we  come  to 

Monell — 781.3  miles  from  Omaha,  and  0,785 
feet  above  the  sea.  South  of  this  station,  and 
to  a  certain  extent,  in  its  immediate  vicinity, 
moss  agates  are  found.  The  stones,  however, 
are  not  clear  and  well-defined.  They  are  smoky 
and  dark,  rendering  them  nearly  valueless. 
Monell  is  only  a  side  track  where  trains  seldom 
stop.    Downthe  grade  we  pass  to 

Hitter  Creek,— a,  telegiaph  station,  786.3 
miles  from  Omaha,  with  an  elevation  r'  /^SS 
feet.  At  this  station,  we  first  strike  *'  '  II- 
known  Bitter  Creek  Valley,  tlirough  win  >'e 
shall  pass  to  Green  River.  About  f'^v  ies 
below  this  station,  on  the  south  ciJe  of  .  .ack, 
the  old  overland  stage  and  emigia  road  struck 
the  valley,  as  it  came  in  from  Bridger's  Pass,  and 
across  the  Snake  River  Valley.  The  railroad 
reaches  Bitter  Creek  through  a  "  draw  "  or  diy 
ravine  which  unites  with  the  valley  proper,  at  the 
station.  The  old  stage-road  struck  the  creek 
farther  south,  and  before  it  reaches  the  railroad. 
This  was  formerly  quite  a  station,  and  the  end 
of  a  passenger  division.  It  has  a  small  round- 
house, with  ten  stalls  and  turn-table,  upon  which 
the  engines  and  snow-plows  are  turned.  Between 
this  station  and  Rawlins,  as  has  been  observed, 
are  very  heavy  grades,  requiring  two  engines  to 
pull  a  train.  These  extra  engines  come  with 
trains  as  far  as  this  station,  and  then  assist  east* 
ward  bound  trains  back  again.     A  large  quan- 


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SCENES  ON  GREEN  RIVEB. 

1 — Flaming  Gorge.    2  —Browne  Hole.    3.— Looking  up  th«  Valley  of  Green  Rirer. 


97 


tity  of  bridge  timber  is  also  kept  here,  ready 
for  any  emergency.  In  the  great  washout  at 
the  foot  of  this  valley,  in  the  spring  of  1875, 
large  quantities  were  used.  Bitter  Creek  is 
rightly  named.  Its  waters  are  so  strongly 
impregnated  with  alkali  that  they  are  almost 
useless.  Nevertheless,  at  the  head  of  this 
creek,  where  it  is  fed  by  cold,  clear  springs, 
for  more  than  ten  miles  from  the  station, 
trout  have  been  caught,  though  they  are 
small.  The  rugged  scenery  along  this  valley 
will  interest  the  traveler,  as  the  views  are 
constantly  changing.  There  are  no  machine- 
shops  for  repairs  here,  only  the  five-stall 
roundhouse.  The  creek  has  been  dammed 
for  the  purpose  of  supplying  the  water  tank, 
though  the  water  is  not  the  best  for  boil- 
ers. The  whole  region  of  country,  from  a 
gtint  east,  as  far  as  Rock  Creek  to  Green 
iver,  is  underlaid  with  coal.  It  frequently 
crops  out  in  this  valley.  The  coal  is  lignite 
and  will  not  "coke"  like  the  bituminous 
coal.  There  are  also  indications  of  iron 
and  other  minerals,  in  the  immediate  vicin- 
ity of  the  valley.  Occasionally,  you  will 
see  little  shrub  pines  on  the  bluffs — but  no 
timber.  These  pines  have  tried  to  grow, 
but  the  sterility  of  the  soil  is  against  them. 
They  find  it  almost  impossible  to  "take 
root."  Sometimes  it  seems,  as  you  pass 
down  the  valley  and  look  ahead,  as  though 
the  train  was  going  square  against  the 
rocks,  and  would  be  dashed  in  pieces;  but 
a  sudden  curve,  and  you  have  rounded  the 
projecting  bluffs,  and  are  safely  pursuing 
your  journey.  Again,  it  seems  as  though 
the  bluffs  were  trying  to  shake  hands  across 
the  chasm,  or  making  an  effort  to  become 
dovetailed  together.  They  assume  all  sorta 
of  shapes,  washed  out  in  places  by  the 
storms  of  ages — smoothly  carved  as  if  by 
the  hand  of  the  sculptor — and  again,  ragged 
and  grotesque.  The  geology  of  the  Bitter 
Creek  and  Green  River  Valleys,  will  afford 
a  chapter  of  curious  interest,  and  will  amply 
reward  him  who  searches  thoroughly  after 
the  knowledf").  Professor  Hayden  and  Major 
Powell  have  the  best  reports  on  the  forma- 
tion and  geology  of  this  region. 

Black  Buttes  —  is  the  next  station,  795.4 
miles  from  Omaha,  and  6,600  feet  above 
the  sea.  It  is  a  telegraph  station  with 
accompanying  side  tracks.  Fonnerly  there 
was  a  coal  mine  worked  here,  said  to  be- 
long to  Jack  Morrow,  now  of  Omaha,  and 
Suite  a  noted  frontier  character  in  his 
ay.  It  furnishes  excellent  coul,  easily  ac- 
cessible, the  vein  being  from  six  to  eight 
feet  thick.  As  you  approach  the  station, 
notice  the  balanced  rock  north  of  the 
road  and  within  i)0  feet  of  the  side 
track.     The   buttes   from   which   the   station 


is  named  are  south  of  the  creek,  and  plainly 
visible. 

HallviUe, — named  after  a  noted  contractor 
who  graded  the  road  through  this  part  of 
the  valley.  A  few  posts  and  adobe  walls  are 
all  that  remain  of  the  camp.  It  Is  simplv 
a  side  track,  800.9  miles  from  Omaha,  witn 
an  elevation  of  6,590  feet. 

Point  of  Bocks— ia  a  station  with  a  his- 
tory. It  was  formerly  quite  a  town,  but  its 
glory  has  departed  with  the  causes  which 
brought  it  into  existence.  It  wa&  fonnerly 
the  point  of  departure  and  the  outfitting 
place  for  the  Sweetwater  Gold  District,  South 
Pass  City,  Atlantic  City,  Camp  Stambaugh, 
and  other  places  in  the  region  of  the  Great 
South  Pass  at  the  foot  of  Wind  River 
Mountains,  and  is  the  nearest  railroad  point 
to  those  places,  to-day,  with  a  good  wagon 
road  not  much  traveled.  Distance  to  South 
Pass  City,  65  miles.  The  rocks  from  which 
this  place  is  named  are  on  a  high  point 
south  of  the  track,  and  a  little  east  of  the 
station.  They  seem  in  the  distance  like  faint 
outlines  of  huge  perpendicular  columns,  not 
very  high,  but  really  365  feet  per^ndicular 
above  their  ba.se  surroundings.  Their  summit 
is  about  1,100  feet  above  the  track.  At  the 
base  of  the  rocks  proper,  and  about  735  feet 
above  the  track,  seven  bulphur  springs  break 
out,  three  of  which  are  large  ones,  the  balance 
being  small. 

North  of  the  track,  and  three-fourths  of  a 
mile  west  of  the  station,  is  an  iron  spring, 
reputed  to  possess  remarkable  medicinal  aual« 
ities,  {'everal  invalids,  espe-.-ially  females,  hav- 
ing hjen  highly  benefited  by  drinking  and 
bathing  in  its  waters.  Four  miles  nor'h  of 
the  station  is  a  huge  sulphur  spring,  with 
water  pouring  forth  from  the  gixiund.  The 
artesian  well,  which  supplies  the  water 
tank  here,  is  700  feet  deep.  Water  is  pumped 
out  by  steam  power.  Wells  &  Fargo's  Over- 
land  "Express  Company  had  a  station  here, 
and  their  old  adobe  buildings,  rapidly  going 
into  decaj^  may  still  be  seen  across  the 
creek,  at  the  oase  of  the  bluffs.  In  the 
"piping"  times  of  the  town  several  build- 
ings were  commenced,  but  the  collapse  was 
so  sudden  that  they  were  never  completed. 
This  station  is  806.7  miles  from  Omaha,  and 
6,490  feet  above  the  sea.  It  is  now  a  place 
of  large  coal  interests,  over  one  hundred 
car  loads  per  day  being  shipped.  There 
is  also  an  artesian  well  one  thousand  and  fif> 
teen  feet  deep. 

Thayer, — simply  a  side  track,  812  miles 
from  Omaha,  with  an  elevation  of  6,425 
feet.  The  moving  trains  will  give  the  tourist 
an  ever-varying  view  of  the  grand  and  beau- 
tiful scenery  of  this  valley. 

SaU  WMsr-S\.^-2  miles  from  the  eastern 


J 


I  i 


98 


terminus  of  the  road,  and  6,;300  feet  above 
the  sea.  It  is  a  telegraph  station,  and  in 
the  construction  period  of  the  road,  was  a 
place  where  considerable  timber,  wood,  etc., 
was  delivered.  The  water  from  the  well  here 
hoA  a  saltish,  alkaline  taste,  hence  the  name. 
Three  and  one-half  miles  north,  there  is  a  salt 
or  alkali  basin,  which  has  no  visible  outlet  in 
which  the  brackish  watei-s  stand  the  most  of 
the  year. 
Sttxter, — 826.2  miles  from  Omaha;  eleva- 


its  entire  line.     Rock  Springs  coal  for  domestic 

Iiurposes  is  only  surpassed  by  anthracite.  It 
;as  but  little  of  the  sulphurous  smell  of  other 
soft  coal,  burns  into  ashes  without  clinkers,  and 
without  the  black  soot  which  characterizes  other 
coal.  These  mines,  with  others,  were  formerly 
operated  by  the  Wyoming  Coal  Company. 
Their  product  is  annually  increasing;  where. er 
the  superior  merits  of  the  coal  have  become 
known  it  speedily  supplants  other  kinds  in  use. 
In  1880   the  company  mined  200,000  tons,  or 


OASTLE  ROCK. 


tion,  6,300  feet — A  side  track  where  passenger 
trains  do  not  stop.  The  valley  narrows  in  this 
vicinity,  and  the  rugged  rocks  with  their  ragged 
edges,  if  possible  become  more  interesting  to  the 
observer. 

Mock  SprinffHf—SSl.Q  miles  from  Omaha, 
and  6,280  feet  above  the  sea.  This  is  the  great 
coal  station  on  the  line  of  the  Union  Pacific 
Road.  The  company  not  onlv  furnishes  the 
finest  lignite  coal  to  be  found,  lor  its  own  use, 
but  supplies  the  market  at  every  point  along 


20,000  cars  allowing  the  usual  ten  tons  per  car. 
They  did  not,  however,  ship  this  number  of  cars 
as  considerable  coal  is  furnished  to  all  the  en- 
gines that  pass,  and  consumed  by  the  people 
living  in  the  town.  They  are  now  working  two 
veins.one  sixand  the  other  about  ninefeet  in  thick- 
ness.   The  Artesian  well  here  is  1,145  feet  deep. 

JFilklnSf—SiO.Q  miles  from  Omaha,  with 
an  elevation  of  0,200  feet.  A  side  track  for 
passing  trains  between  Rock  Springs  and 

Oreen  River, — which  is  the  end  of  the  Lara- 


99 


mie  division  of  the  road,  273.8  milos  from  that 
place,  and  8lt).0  inilea  from  Omaha,  with  an  ele- 
vation of  0,1 10  feet.  This  is  a  regular  oating- 
Rtation,  breakfast  and  supper,  and  w  now  one  of 
the  best  kept  hostelries  on  the  road.  This  place 
will  eventually  be  a  popular  rosoit  for  those  who 
are  seeking  for  fossiliterous  remains,  and  those 
who  delight  in  fishing.  Here  is  the  outfitting 
point  for  hunting  and  fishing  parties  who 
desire  to  go  either  north  or  south,  and  hero 
is  the  head  center  for  Rocky  Mountain  spec- 
imens, fossils,  petrifactions,  etc.,  and  travelers 
would  like  to  know  beforehand  just  what  accom- 
modations they  can  obtain.  Mr.  Kitchen  is  able 
to  provide  for  all,  in  elegant  style,  at  reasonable 
prices.  Here,  also,  he  has  on  exhibition  and  for 
sale  the  spjcimMis  alluded  to — such  as  beautiful 
moss  agat3s,  fossil  fish,  petrified  shells  and  wood, 
with  others  which  we  are  not  able  to  name.     Par- 


others  to  reclaim  the  soil,  but  thus  far 
"with  indifferent  success,  though  Mr.  Fields 
was  quite  successful,  in  1875,  with  a  crop  of 
potatoes,  cabbages,  turnips,  radishes,  and  other 
"garden  truck." 

Htagps  leave  here  for  Big  Horn,  Sweetwater 
and  other  towns  tri- weekly.  The  old  mud 
huts  are  beginning  to  find  occupants  again. 
'J'he  Desert  House  is  the  only  hotel,  a 
pleasant  place  with  its  flowers,  ferns,  and 
pictures. 

The  high  projecting  tower  north  of  the 
track,  crowning  a  bluff,  is  625  feet  higher  than 
the  river  level  below,  and  about  615  feet  higher 
than  t'le  track.  Other  rocks,  as  "  The  Sisters  " 
and  "  The  Twin  Sisters  "  will  be  readily  recog- 
nized by  the  passing  traveler. 

"  Wake  up,  wake  up,"  said  an  old  lady  to  her 
husband,  as  the  train  approached  the  station  one 


^L:*AmN 


THK  TWIN  SISTERS,  OREEM   RIVER. 


ties  of  m^n  are  employed  to  search  the  hills, 
mountains  and  valleys  in  this  vicinity,  for  these 
sp3cimen3,  and  when  found,  to  bring  them  in. 
The  stock  is,  therefore,  continually  replenished 
with  rich  and  rare  gems  and  fossils,  and  they 
mav  here  be  obtained  at  any  tim^. 

Bjing  the  end  of  a  division,  Green  River  has  a 
large  roundhouse  with  fifteen  stalls,  and  the 
usual  machine  and  repair  shops.  The  railroad 
bursts  into  the  valley  through  a  narrow  >,'orge 
between  two  hills,  then  turns  to  the  right  and 
enters  the  town,  crossing  the  river  beyond  on  a 
wooden  truss  bridge.  The  old  adobe  town,  re- 
mains of  which  are  still  visible,  v/as  on  the  bot- 
tom-land directly  in  front  of  the  gorge. 

Green     River    is     now    the    county-seat    of 
Sweetwater    County,    Wyoming,    ami    has    a 

Population    of   nearly     500    persons.      Efforts 
ave    been    made    by  Mr.   Fields  and  a  few 


morning  last  year;  "here  is  Solomon's  temple 
petrified,"  said  she,  as  she  gave  him  another 
shake.  The  old  gentleman  rubbed  his  eyes,  gave 
another  yawn,  and  finally  looked  out,  to  see  what 
excites  tlie  curiosity  of  every  traveler,  as  he 
arrives  at  this  place.  Sure  enough  ;  it  seems  as 
though  some  great  temple  once  stood  here,  or 
several  of  them,  and  in  the  wrecks  of  time,  left 
their  gigantic  pillai-s  standing,  as  a  reminder  of 
their  foimer  greatness. 

Tlie  Ch'een  River. — The  peculiar  color  of 
this  river  is  not  owing  to  the  fact  of  any  discolora- 
tion of  the  water  ;  that,  when  the  banks  of  the 
stream  are  not  filled  by  freshets  of  itself  or  some 
of  its  tributaries,  is  very  pure  and  sweet,  and  of 
the  usual  color  of  clear  water,  but  is  owing  to 
the  green  shale  through  which  it  runs,  and  which 
can  readily  be  seen  in  the  bluffs  in  the  vicinity 
and  for  quite  a  distance  up  Black's  Fork,  and 


'  Kh 


"■■\  , 


m 


w 


100 


FMM  ^mciFMQ  wotmmT. 


'J   ■■! 


Ik     ■•'■ 


PETRIFIED  FISH  CCT,  OREBN  RIVER. 

which  is  supposed  to  contain  arsenic  or  chloride 
of  copper,  which  becomes  detached  by  drainage 
and  fastens  itself  to  the  pebble  stones  and  bot- 
tom of  the  stream,  causing  the  water,  as  you 
look  into  it,  to  bear  the  same  color.  This  river 
rises  in  the  Wyoming  and  Wind  River  Mount- 
ains, is  fed  by  numerous  tributaries,  and  flows 
\  n  a  general  southerly  direction,  until  it  unites 
with  the  Colorado  River.  The  scenery  along  its 
banks,  most  always  rugged,  in  some  places  is 
sublime.  Where  it  is  crossed  by  the  railroad,  its 
valley  is  narrow,  enclosed  on  either  side  by  high 
bluffs,  which  have  been  washed  into  numerous 
fanciful  shapes  by  the  storms  of  time,  and 
which  are  crowned,  in  many  instances,  by  col- 
ums,  or  towers,  forcibly  reminding  one  of  the 
towers,  battlements  and  castles,  spoken  of  in 
the  old  feudal  times.  Its  tributaries,  nearly 
all  have  narrow  fertile  valleys,  which  nre  be- 
ing occupied  by  stockmen,  and  which  afford 
both  hay  and  shelter  for  stock.  South  of 
the  railroad,  it  winds  through  the  famous  Col- 
orado Canon,  so  well  and  giandly  described 
by  Major  Powell,  the  explorer.  The  river  and 
its  surroundings  must  from  their  very  nature, 
alwayg  be  a  source  of  interest  to  the  scien- 
tist, and  will  soon  become  a  popular  resort 
for  fossil  hunters,  gem  searchers  and  sports- 
men. 

Brown?n  Hof.e. — This  is  a  beautiful  scene 
just  below  Red  Canon,  the  water  is  calm,  quiet, 
and  peaceful,  like  a  mirror,  with  wonderfully  dis- 
tinct reflections.  Here  is  the  last  quiet  stretch 
of  the  river  ere  it  enters  into  the  turbulent  pas- 
sage of  the  deeper,  gloomier,  and  larger  canon 


WEST  BANK  ORREN  niVER,  LOOKIKO  EASTWARD. 

below.  The  sandy  beach,  at  the  left,  shows  tho 
foot-prints  of  ntiinerous  deer,  bears,  and  elk  that 
frequent  the  bank. 

Brown's  Hole  is  an  expansion  of  the  val- 
ley of  Green  River,  and  is  about  five  miles 
wide  and  thirty  miles  long.  This  is  a  name  given 
by  the  old  trappers, — 40  years  ago,  or  more — and 
has  been  a  favorite  wintering  place  for  stock. 
Little  or  no  snow  falls  in  the  valleys,  and  they  are 
so  well  surrounded  by  high  mountains,  that  the 
bleak  winds  of  winter  cannot  reach  them.  The 
valley  is  covered  with  wild  sage  and  bunch 
grass — and  at  the  time  of  the  visit  of  the  Hayden 
Exploring  Party,  there  were  2,200  head  of  Texas 
cattle,  just  driven  in,  to  fatten  for  the  California 
market.  In  the  north  sides  of  the  valley,  the  beds 
of  rock  have,  by  the  action  of  the  weather,  become 
shaped  into  innumerably  beautiful,  architectural 
forms,  like  the  ruins  of  pyramids. 

Giant's  Club. — This  is  fairly  a  giant  in  di- 
mensions,—  as  its  proportions  are  really  colos- 
sal. It  rises  with  almost  perpendicular  sides, 
and  is  impossible  to  scale  by  ascent.  The  rock 
is  interesting  for  its  peculiar  formation,  aa  it 
bears  evidences  of  having  once  existed  at  the 
bottom  of  a  lake.  It  lies  in  regular  strata,  all 
horizontal,  and  most  of  these  contain  fossils  of 
plants  and  fishes.  The  plants  are  all  extinct 
species,  and  closely  allied  to  our  fruit  and  forest 
trees  ;  among  them,  however,  are  some  palms, 
which  indicated  this  to  be,  in  original  times, 
vhen  the  deposit  was  formed,  a  very  warm 
climate.  Professor  Hayden,  in  examining  this 
rock,  and  others  near,  found  the  plants  in  the 
upper  part  of  the  rock,  and  about  a  hundred  feet 


FMB  ^sS€IFI€  F0&miSF. 


101 


/(>wer  down,  discovered  tJi«  rernuiiiH  of  fishos,  all 
of  them  beloiiginj;  to  fiesli  water,  and  all  extinct 
species.  They  were  imbedded  in  oily  shales,  and 
insects  were  found  with  thcni.  in  a  remarkable 
state  of  preservation.  With  the  fishes  were  also 
found  feathers  of  birds,  and  a  few  reeds. 

Pei-iillavith's  of  the  (lii'een  River  lioctkM. 
■ — To  the  poonliar  formation  of  roeks  which  pivps 
all  this  region  itw  charactoristie  features,  is  given 
the  name  of  tho  Green  River  Shales.  The  sedi- 
ments are  arranjjed  in  regular  layers,  mostly 
quitu  thin,  but  varying  from  the  thickness  of  a 
knife-blade  to  several  feet.  These  peculiar 
layers,  or  bands,  are  quite  varied  iu  s.  '.des  of 
color.  In  some  of  the  thin  slabs  of  shale,  are 
thousands  of  beautiful  impressions  of  fish,  some- 
times a  dozen  or  so  within  the  compass  of  a 


ters  of  the  river  are  of  the  pur(!st  emerald,  with 
banks  and  land-bars  of  glistening  white.  The 
perpendieulur  bluff  to  the  left  is  nearly  l.-'iOO  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  river,  and  of  a  bright  red 
and  yellow.  When  illuininattjd  by  full  sunlight, 
it  is  grand,  and  deserves  its  full  title  '*  'i"he  Flam- 
ing Gorgt!."  It  is  the  entranei!  to  a  gateway  to 
the  still  gn!ater  wonders  and  grandeurs  of  tho 
famous  lied  Canon  that  cuts  its  way  to  a  depth 
of  3,000  feet,  between  this  point  and  its  entrance 
into  Brown's  Hole. 

Leaving  Green  River  the  railroad  crosses  the 
bridge,  turns  to  the  right,  and  runs  along  under 
the  bluffs  —  the  highest  being  about  350  feet 
high,  and  almost  over  the  river  in  one  place — for 
about  three  miles,  when  it  again  turns  to  the 
left,  passing  the  divide  where  there   is  an  un- 


UIAMT'S  ULUB,  UUEUN   KIVKH. 

square  foot.     Impressions  of  insects  and  water 
plants    are  also  sometimes  found.     At  Burning 
Rock  Cnt,  tho  road  passes  through  thin  layers 
of  a  sort  of  cream-colored,  chalky  limestone, 
interspersed  with  strata  of  a  dark-brown  color, 
saturated  with  petroleum,  bo  as  to  Irim  freely. 
The  Cut  derives   its  name  Burning  Rocks,  from 
the  fact  that  during  the  building  of  the  road 
the  rocks  became   ignited  and  burned  for  some 
days,  illuminating  the  labor  of   the  workmen  by 
night — and  filling  the  valley  with  dense  clouds 
of  smoke  by  day. 

Curious  Scenes  nlonq  the  Green  River. 
— At  the  month  of  Henry's  Fork  there  is  a  view 
on  Green  River  of  great  beauty,  which  derives  its 
principal  charm  from  its  vivid  colors.    The  wa- 


OIAKT'S  TEA-rOT,  UK«EN  RIVER. 


named   side  track,   and   along  a  hilly,  broken 
country. 

The  Siveefirnfer. — Tins  stream  rises  in  the 
Wind  River  Mountains,  directly  north  of  Point 
of  Rocks  and  Salt  Wells,  in  the  great  South 
Pass,  discovered  by  General  Fremont,  and  runs  in 
a  general  easterly  direction  uniting  with  the 
North  Platte  River  about  80  miles  north  of  Fort 
Steele.  South  of  it  is  the  Sweetwater  Mountain 
Range.  North  of  it  lay  the  Rattlesnake  Hills, 
which  are  said  to  be  one  continuous  chain  of 
broken  ragged  rocks  heaped  upon  each  other  in 
confused  masses.  They  are  utterly  barren  and 
desolate,  and  beyond  the  snakes  which  give  then^ 
their  name,  are  avoided  by  almost  every  living 
thing.  Near  the  niouth  of  this  river,  Independence 


X43'J^j 


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102 


TMJff  PiiCIFie  FOmil'Sr. 


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lit 


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II     ■■ 


Rock,  a  noted  landmark  of  the  plains,  rises.  It 
ia  on  the  line  of  the  Indian  trail,  to  tliu  upper 
North  Platte  Uetrion,  and  near  it  has  been  i'u.nid 
iminunse  deponils  of  Hu<la  in  lakes  which  are 
Baid  to  be  nearly  pure,  and  which  are  soon  to  bo 
worked.  The  valley  of  thin  stream  is  rarelv 
covered  with  snow  in  winter,  and  atlords  ex- 
cellent grazing  for  stock  the  entire  year.  Were 
it  not  so  exposed  to  Indian  raids  in  snnnner,  it 
would  soon  be  occupied.  The  care  of  stock  re- 
quires horses  and  beyond  the  killing  of  a  few 
head  for  beef  occasionally,  the  Indians  do  not 
trouble  it;  the  horseti  are  what  they  want,  and 
what  they  come  after  and  scalps  will  ho  taken, 
if  necessary  to  obtain  them,  rlacer,  gulch  and 
quartz  gold  has  been  discovered  in  the  Wind 
River  Mountains,  near  the  Great  South  Pass, 
and  fortunes  have  been  made  and  lost  in  that 
mining  district  in  a  very  short  time.  They  have 
been  made  by  the  mining  sharks^,  who  sold  their 
mines  to  tno  inexperienced  aw]  uninitiatotl 
from  the  East,  and  lost  by  tlio  poi'tics 
who  were  "taken  in."  To  the  east  of  tlio 
Wind  River  Mountains  iiio  Shoshone  or 
Snake  River  Indian  reservation  has  been 
laid  off.  The  principal  towns  are  Atlantic 
City,  South  Pass  City,  and  Miner's  Delight, 
a  mining  town.  Near  Atlantic  City  is  Camp 
Stombaugh,  and  still  farther  north,  on  the 
east  side  of  tho  same  mountain,  is  Camp 
Brown,  the  latter  being  near  tho  boundary 
lii\e  of  the  Indian  reservation  referred  to. 
Very  fine  hot  mineral  springs  have  been 
found  on  or  near  this  reservation.  The 
main  road  by  which  those  places  are 
reached,  leads  out  from  Bryan  and  Green 
River.  From  the  latter  place  four-horse 
coaches  are  run  tri-weekly,  while  from 
the  former  a  great  quantity  of  govern- 
ment freight  is  annually  shipped.  Tho 
road  crosses  the  river  near  tlio  mouth 
of  Big  Sandy  Creek,  and  follows  up 
this  stream,  and  Ilb  bunbli  branch  *n 
Pacific  Spring,  after  which  it  crosses  a 
low  divide  to  a  tributary  of  tho  Sweetwater. 
^\  hile  the  road  from  Point  of  Rocks  is  much 
shorter  yet  this  route  is  said  to  be  the  best  as  it 
follows  the  valley  of  a  stream  all  the  way,  and 
avoids  sand-hills  which  are  very  trying  to  stock. 
From  Green  River  the  road  at  present  traveled, 
passes  up  the  valley  until  it  strikes  the  Big 
Sandy,  where  it  intersects  the  road  from  Bryan. 
The  nearest  peaks  seen  on  the  north  side  of  the 
track,  as  you  pass  the  divide  just  west  of  Creston, 
are  those  of  the  real  Rocky  ilountain  Range,  and 
extend  in  a  north-westerly  direction  to  the  head 
of  the  Wind  River  Mountains,  from  which  they 
are  only  divided  by  the  Sweetwater  Valley.  Be- 
fore the  Lodge  Pole  Valley  Route  was  discovered 
via  the  Cheyenne  Pass,  the  North  Platte  and 
Sweetwater  Route  via  the  South  Pass  and  Big 
Sandy  was  the  main,  in  fact  the  great  overland 


route,  traveled  by  the  Mormoiis  and  Cali- 
fornia emigrants.  At  tiie  time  the  railroad  was 
built,  however,  the  Lodgi  Polo  Route  was  the 
one  mainly  traveled.  'I'lio  vast  region  north  of 
the  railroad  betwee-  the  ULuk  Hills  and  Green 
River  Valley,  contains  within  itself  the  germs  of 
a  mighty  empire,  only  waiting  for  the  united 
efforts  ot  capital  and  lal)()r  for  (U'veloimient. 

Hi'l/an, — over  13  miles  from  Green  River, 
and  8UU  miles  from  Omaha,  with  an  elevation  of 
fl,8-lO  feet  or  just  200  feet  higher  than  at  Green 
River.  This  station  was  formerly  a  division  ter- 
minus at  which  time  it  was  a  place  of  consider- 
abh  importance.  Tho  government  has  a  depot 
here,  where  its  freight  for  Camp  Stambaugli, 
Camp  Brown  and  other  places  is  received.  The 
majority  of  the  freight  for  thf  Sweetwater  Min- 
ing District  and  the  settlements  at  the  base  of 
tho  Wind  River  ^Mountains,  South  Pass  City, 
Atlantic  City,  etc.,  is  also  shipped  from  this 
place,  tho  distance  to  the  latter  city  being  00 
miles.  Bry.iu  is  the  first  station  where  the  rail- 
road strikes  Black's  Fork  of  the  Green  River. 
This  fork  rises  in  the  Uintah  Mountains,  directly 
south  of  Piedn;ont,  and  runs  in  a  north-easterly 
direction  till  it  leaohes  Bryan,  then  turns  toward 
the  south-west  and  unites  with  Green  River  Eonie 
twenty  miles  below  Mie  town  of  Green  .  liver. 
The  valley  at  Bryan  is  quite  broad  in  places,  and 
thickly  covered  with  sagv^  brush  and  greasewood. 
The  soil  is  said  to  be  fertile  and  capable  of  pro- 
ducing large  crops  with  irri,Tatioii. 

Fort  Bridger,  eleven  miles  south  of  Carter 
Station,  is  on  this  stream,  and  nt  that  place  over 
300  bushels  of  potatoes  have  been  raised  from  a 
single  half  acre  of  ground.  This  shows  what 
this  virgin  soil  can  do  if  irrigated.  The  table- 
land on  the  elevated  benches  that  the  traveler 
will  observe  on  either  side  of  the  road,  h  said  to 
be  equally  rich,  and  would  be  equally  as  prolific 
if  it  could  be  irrigated.  As  you  approach  Bryan, 
look  away  to  the  south  and  south-east,  and  you 
will  b'.hold  the  towering  peaks  of  the  Uintah 
Mountains,  70  or  80  miles  off.  They  do  not 
look  so  distant,  but  then  distance  is  very  decep' 
tive  in  this  country.  Bryan  is  a  telegraph  sta- 
tion with  a  store,  saloon,  and  a  few  houses — all 
that's  left  to  tell  the  story  of  its  better  and  de- 
parted days.  Its  early  history  is  the  same  as  all 
the  railroad  towns  we  have  mentioned,  with 
roughs,  cut-throats,  gamblers,  villains,  etc.,  and 
their  cleaning  out  by  vigilance  committees,  under 
law  administered  by  "  Judge  Lynch." 

We  now  pursue  oui'  way  up  the  valley  of 
Black's  Fork.  Four  miles  west  of  Bryan,  the 
road  first  crosses  this  stream  which  it  follows  to 
Church  Biittes. 

Marston — is  the  next  station — a  side  track 
21  miles  from  Green  River,  and  867.6  miles  from 
Omaha ;  elevation,  6,245  feet.  From  the  appar- 
ently level  plains  which  the  road  crosses,  abrupt 
buttes  or  bluffs  rise  as  if  built  by  human  hands 


TME  IPHaiFW  WQ^BiBT. 


1():j 


aR  mounds  to  conceal  sotno  treasure,  or  to  porpct- 
uiittiMomo  ri'iiiiirkablo  iiiciilt'iit  in  lii.story.  'Iliey 
form  a  curious  studvt  >i>>d  iiwakcii  no  little  in- 
terertt  in  the  mind  ot  an  obhorving  traveler.  To 
till!  loft  of  thu  track  there  uru  a  number  of  low 
buttes  as  you  approach 

(iranyer, — tlio  next  station,  877. L'  miles  from 
Omaha,  and  0,270  feet  above  the  sea.  It  is  a 
telegraph  station,  named  in  honor  of  an  old  set- 
tlor hero.  Tho  Union  Pacific  Company  is  now 
building  its  •'Oregon  Branch"  from  Granger 
northwest  via  Boda  Springs  and  Snako  Ilivei 
■Vidlejy,  Idaho,  to  Portland,  Oregon.  The  branch 
is  to  be  completed  in  1882,  and  will  bo  a  sev- 
eral Inindred  miles  shorter  roftto  fi'om  tho 
East  to  Oregon  than  any  other  projcci.  \ 
lino.  Tho  road  hero  crosses  Ham's  I'or'  a 
tributary  of   Black's  Fork,  which  lises  some  70 


to  Evanaton,  in  great  profusion.  ThB  most  of 
them,  h()W(!ver,  are  valuele,ss,  Imt  occasionally 
s|)ecimens  of  rare  beauty  are  picked  up.  On 
what  are  called  "the  bad  lanils,"  about  7  miles 
south  of  tilt!  road,  howt  ver,  tlu!  tiiiest  agates, 
with  other  beautiful  gem.',  are  obtained  with  lit- 
tle ditliciilty.  in  Ham's  Fork  water  agates, 
creamy  white,  and  amber  colored,  may  be  occa- 
sionally picked  up.  They  ai(!  qui'o  rare,  and 
when  cut  by  the  lapidary,  are  held  to  be  of  con- 
sit.'  !rablo  value. 

View  of  Uintah  Mountalnfi.— The  view 
<•  give  an  illustration  of,  on  page  78,  is  one  of 
tli ;  finest  in  the  Far  West.  The  scene  is  taken 
fiom  riiotograph  Uidge,  at  an  elevation  of 
10  M'J!)  feel.  In  the  foreground  is  a  jjicturesque 
group  of  tho  mountain  pines.  In  tho  middle 
d..taiic»!  flows  Black's  Fork.     Tho  peaks  or  conea 


CHURCH   BUTTKS 

miles  north-west,  and  which,  the  old  settlers  say, 
is  really  the  main  stream  of  the  two.  The  banks 
of  this  stream,  as  far  as  you  can  see,  are  lined 
with  bushes,  and  farther  up,  its  valley  produ-^es 
luxuriant  grass,  from  which  hay  is  cut,  and  \ipn 
which  numerous  herds  of  cattle  feed.  An  oval 
peak  rises  on  the  north  side  of  the  track,  beyond 
which,  in  the  distance,  may  be  seen  a  range  of 
bluffs,  or  inountains,which  rise  up  between  Ham's 
Fork  and  Green  River.  From  Granger  to  the 
next  station,  are  buttes  on  bctth  sides  of  the 
track,  while,  to  the  left,  the  high  peaks  of  the 
Uintah  Range  tower  up  in  the  distance,  affording 
one  of  '.he  grandest  views  on  the  line  of  the  road. 
This  is  the  region  of  moss  agates,  gems  of  vari- 
ous kinds,  and  precious  stones.  Agates  are  found 
all  along  the  line  of  the  road  from  Green  River 


ox  black's  fork 
in  the  distance  have  their  summits  far  aWvA  the 
limits  of  perpetual  snow,  and  from  LGiXi  t<>  2,000 
feet  above  the  springs  that  are  the  sources  of  the 
streams  below.  These  cones  are  distinctly  strati- 
fied, mostly  horizontal,  and  thero  are  fri'quently 
vast  piles  of  purplish,  compact  quartzite,  which 
resemble  Egyptian  pyramids  a,y  a  gigantic  scale, 
without  a  trace  of  grit,  vegetation,  or  water.  One. 
of  these  remarkabla  structiii  ^s  stands  out  isolated 
from  the  rest,  in  the  middle  of  the  Valley  o,f 
Smith's  Fork,  and  is  so  much  like  a  Gv-thiQ 
church,  that  the  United  States  Surveying  Party 
gave  it  the  name  of  llayden's  Catjiedral,  aftef 
the  leader  of  the  exploration. 

Church  ItiitteAr  -887.7  miles  from  Omaha  jj 
elevation,  6,317  feet.  The  particular  buttes, 
frou^  >vhich  tha  station  derives  its  nan^e.  a^ei 


1  '■ 


lilt! 


n 


11 


104 


rMM  ^itciric  Tomtsr. 


about  10  milea  souvh  of  the  station,  on  the  old 
overland  stage  road,  but  buttes  rise  up  from  the 
level  plains  in  this  vicinity  in  every  direction. 
They  are,  however,  fast  washing  away.  The 
annual  increase  in  rain-fall  on  this  desert,  since 
the  completion  of  the  railroad  and  the  stretch- 
ing of  five  telegraph  wires,  is  remarkable,  and 
is  especially  noticed  by  the  old  settlers.  These 
rains,  with  the  frosts  of  winter,  are  having  a 
noticeable  effect  on  the  buttes.  Isolated  peaks 
have  disappeared  entirely —  and  prominent  pro- 
jections have  been  materially  lessened.  There 
are  still  a  large  number,  however,  chiseled  by 
the  action  oi  frosts  and  rains  into  fantastic 
shapsa  which  will  excite  the  attention  and  rivet 
the  gaze  of  the  traveler,  as  he  passes  by;  but,  if 
their  annual  diminution  continues,  in  less  than 
half  a  century,  they  will  have  lost  their  interest. 
Near  this  station  is  the  last  crossing  of  Black's 
Fork,  which  now  bears  away  to  the  left,  while 
the  road  ascends  another  of  its  branches,  called 
the  Big  Muddy.  What  has  been  said  in  refer- 
ence to  aafates,  etc.,  of  the  other  stations,  will 
apply  to  Church  Buttes  with  equal  force. 

Curious  ScieiUliic  Exploratlotis.  — 
Church  Buttes  is  a  curious  formation,  located  on 
the  line  of  the  old  overland  stage  route,  about 
one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  east  from  Salt  Lake, 
and  at  this  point  having  an  elevation  of  6,731 
feet.  The  formation  is  part  of  the  Mauvaises 
Tents,  or  Bad  Lands,  a!id  consists  of  a  vast  de- 
posit of  sedimentary  sandstones,  and  marly  clay, 
in  perfectly  horizontal  strata,  and  contain  within 
their  beds,  some  venr  remarkable  paleontological 
romains.  The  peculiar  effects  of  stormy  weather 
and  flood,-  in  the  past,  has  carved  the  bluff-lines 
into  the  most  cunous  and  fantastic  forms — lofty 
domes  and  pinnacles,  and  fluted  columns,  these 
rocks  resembling  some  cathedral  of  the  olden 
time,  standing  in  the  midst  of  desolation. 

Professor  Hayden,  in  speaking  of  them  says, 
"  Distance  lends  a  most  delicious  enchantment  to 
the  scene,  and  the  imj^nation  can  build  many 
castles  from  out  of  this  mass  of  most  singular 
formation.  A  nearer  approach  dispels  some  of 
the  illusions,  but  the  mind  is  no  less  impressed 
with  the  infinite  variety  of  detail  and  the  scat- 
tered remains  of  the  extinct  life  of  some  far  dis- 
tant age." 

In  this  section  are  found  "  moss  agates,"  in  the 
greatest  abundance,  being  scattered  all  over  the 
surface  of  the  country.  Standing  upon  one  of 
the  summits  of  the  highest  point  of  the  "  Bad 
Lands,"  Hayden  says,  "as  far  as  the  eye  can 
reach,  upon  every  side,  is  a  vast  extent  of  most 
infinite  detail.  It  looks  like  some  ruined  city  of 
the  gods,  blasted,  bare,  desolate,  but  grave,  beyond 
a  mortal's  telling."  In  J870,  a  geological  expedi- 
tion, headed  by  Prof.  O.  C.  Marsh,  of  Yale  College, 
and  known  as  the  "  Yale  College  Expedition  of 
1870  "  —  visited  the  "  Bad  Lands  "  and  made  a 
geological  examination.  They  were  accompanied 


by  Buffalo  Bill,  a  military  troupe,  and  ten  Pawnee 
Indians,  as  guides.  On  the  way.  Professor  Marsh 
endeavored  to  explain  the  mighty  changes  of 
geology  and  the  grand  discoveries  they  would 
make — and  Btiflalo  Bill  intimated,  some  oi 
them  were  *^  pretty  tough  yaniK."  The  desolation 
of  the  country  can  only  be  imagined,  not  de- 
scribed— hour  after  hour  the  party  marched  over 
burning  sand-hills,  without  rocks  or  trees,  or 
signs  of  water,  while  the  thermometer  stood  at 
llO'*  in  the  shade  of  the  wagons.  After  fourteen 
hours  in  the  saddle,  one  of  the  soldiers,  exhaust- 
ed with  heat  and  thirst,  finally  exclaimed: 
"  What  did  God  Almighty  make  auch  a$  thi»j'ort" 
"  Why,"  replied  another  more  devout  trooper, 
"  Go(l  Almighty  made  the  country  good  enough, 
but  it's  this  deuced  geology  the  professor  talks  about, 
that  spoiled  it  all." 

For  fresh  water  the  party  had  to  thank  the 
favor  of  a  thunder-shower,  during  which  they 
drank  from  the  rims  of  each  other's  hats.  Their 
researches  resulted  in  the  discovery  of  the  re- 
mains of  various  species  of  the  camel,  horse, 
mammals,  and  others  new  to  science.  A  branch 
of  this  expedition  exploring  the  canons  and 
plains  of  Northern  Colorado,  discovered  a  large 
deposit  which  contained  great  quantities  of 
fossil  turtles,  and  rhinoceros,  birds,  and  the  re- 
mains of  tlie  areodon, — a  remarkable  animal 
combining  the ,  characteristics  of  the  modern 
sheep,  pig  and  deer.  The  remains  of  another  mon- 
ster, the  Titanotherium,  were  found  of  such  vast 
proportions,  that  a  lower  jaw  measured  over  four 
feet  in  length.  At  Antelope  Station,  in  one  of 
these  areodon  beds,  remains  were  found  of 
several  species  of  horse ; — one  a  three-toed  ani- 
mal, and  another  which,  although  full  grown,  hr  H 
attained  the  height  of  but  tv<'0  feet.  In  an  ex- 
ploration near  Green  River — the  expedition 
found  petrified  fishes  in  abundance,  and  a  small 
bed,  containing  fossil  insects,  a  rare  discov- 
ery. Here  were  beetles  and  dragons,  flies  and 
grasshoppers;  a  gigantic  fossil  mosquito,  and 
an  extinct  flea  of  greiit  dimensions  were  also 
discovered.  At  Fort  Wallace,  Ks.,  the  party 
found  a  trophy  in  the  form  of  a  skeleton  of  a 
sea  serpent  nearly  complete,  which  alone  re- 
quired four  days  to  dig  out  and  bring  to  the 
camp.  This  monster  when  alive  could  not  have 
been  less  than  60  feet.  It  had  a  slender  eel- 
like body  and  tail,  with  mouth  like  a  boa-con- 
strictor. 

Among  the  curious  incidents  which  happened, 
was  th6  discovery  of  a  genuine  Sioux  Indian  bur- 
ial ground.  The  dead  were  reposing  on  platforms 
of  boughs  elevated  above  the  ground,  and  sup- 
ported at  the  four  corners  by  poles  about  eight 
feet  in  height.  On  one  of  these  tombs  lay  two 
bodies, — a  woman,  decked  in  beads  and  bracelets, 
and  a  scalpless  brave,  with  war  paint  still  on  the 
cheeks,  and  holding  in  his  crumbling  hand, 
a  rusty  shot-gun,  and  a  pack  of  cards.    Several 


FMM  ^aCIFIG  FO&miST. 


105 


5S,  birds,  and  the  re- 


«,  wliich  alone  re- 
[t  and  bring  to  the 
Uive  could  not  have 
had  a  slender  eel- 
)uth  like  a  boa-con- 


incidents  occurred  from  the  abundance  of  rattle- 
snakes. Several  animals  were  bitten  by  them, 
and  the  country  at  some  places  fairly  swarmed 
with  them.  >i  umbers  were  killed  every  day  by 
the  horses'  feet,  and  while  members  of  the  party 
would  occasioually  bathe  in  the  river,  these 
reptilies  would  bask  upon  the  bank  of  the  stream 
near  their  clothes,  as  one  of  them  says,  "  Their 
liumraing  soon  became  an  old  tune,  and  the 
cliarm  of  shooting  the  wretches  wore  away  for 
all  but  one,  who  was  collecting  their  rattles  as  a 
necklace  for  his  lady  love." 

Hampton^ — a  little  over  50  miles  from  Green 
River,  897.1  miles  from  Omaha,  and  6,500  feet 
above  the  sea.  It  is  simply  a  side  track  where, 
occasi>)nally,  trains  meet  and  pass.  Approaching 
this  station,  two  large  buttes  lift  themselves 
above  their  fellows  on  the  left  side  of  the  track, 
while  beyond,  a  low,  dark  ridge  may  be  seen  cov- 
ered with  cedars.  In  this  ridge  is  an  abundance 
of  game  and  good  hunting  at  almost  any  season 
of  tlie  year.  The  game  consists  of  elk,  coyotes, 
wolves,  deer,  bears,  etc.  About  three  miles  be- 
fore you  reach  the  next  station,  you  will  notice 
oi!  to  the  right  of  the  track,  a  long,  low,  dark  ridge. 
It  is  also  covered  with  cedars,  and  it  strikes  the 
road  near  Bridger  Station.  There  are  also  plenty 
of  cedars  in  the  bluffs  to  the  left  before  you 
reach 

Carter, — the  next  station,  which  is  904.6 
miles  from  Omaha,  and  6,550  feet  above  the  sea. 
The  station  is  named  in  honor  of  Col.  Dick 
Carter,  whose  home  is  here,  and  who  has  lived 
here  since  the  completion  of  the  railroad.  It  is 
the  nearest  railroad  station  to  Fort  Bridger, 
which  is  located  on  Black's  Fork,  11  miles  due 
south,  and  reached  by  daily  stages  from  this 
point.  Near  Carter,  "also,  one  can  hardly  go 
amiss  of  mosa  agates  and  other  curious  speci- 
mens. About  twenty  miles,  a  little  northwest 
of  this  station,  is  a  mountain  of  coal  on  a  tribu- 
tary of  Little  Muddy.  In  this  mountain  are 
found  three  splendid  veins  of  coal,  of  total 
thiol  mess  of  eighty -seven  feet,  which  can  be 
traced  over  ten  miles;  also  layers  of  slate 
twenty-fivo  to  thirty  feet  in  depth.  The  coal 
rosemldes  cannel  coal,  and  makes  excellent 
coke  for  smcltinf^  purposes.  Seven  miles  north 
of  Caiter  is  a  whito  sulphur  spring,  a  elialy- 
boato  spring,  and,  also,  a  fine  fresh  water 
Bi)ring.  The  branch  railroad  from  Granger 
will  pass  these  springs,  and  reach,  the  moun- 
tain of  coal  in  a  distance  of  fifty  miles. 

Smith's  Fork,  a  branch  of  Black's,  is  about 
five  miles  south  of  Fort  Bridger,  ond  Henry's 
Fork,  of  Green  River,  is  some  twenty-five 
miles  still  farther  south,  and  is  notad  for  its 
rich  gi-azing.  It  is  mostly  occupied  by  stock- 
men as  a  winter  range,  where  large  nnmbers  of 
cattle  aro  annually  wintered  without  hay. 
Smith's  and  Henry's  Forks  are  filled  with  trout, 
W'd  afford  fine  fishing,  whUe  there  ia  an  abund- 


ance of  game,  such  as  elk,  deer,  antelope  and 
bear,  to  attract  the  hunter  and  sportsman. 
Numerous  sage  hens  give  fine  shooting  in  the 
summer  months.  Garter  is  a  telegraph  station, 
and  has  a  store  from  which  ranchmen,  hunters, 
and  others  obtain  supplies,  A  government 
road  to  Fort  Ellis,  Montana  and  the  Yellow- 
stone Park,  has  been  surveyed  from  tliis  station 
by  way  of  Bear  River  \  alley  and  the  Soda 
Springs  in  Idaho.  It  is  some  eighty  miles 
nearer  than  by  Ogden  or  Corinne,  over  a  fine 
route. 

BrUlger—QU.l  mile  from  Omaha,  with  an 
elevation  of  6,780  feet.  It  is  a  telegraph  sta- 
tion named  in  honor  of  Jim  Bridger,  who  was 
a  noted  hunter  and  guide  for  government  and 
other  expeditions.  Since  leaving  Biyan  we 
have  been  going  up  liUl  aU  the  time,  and  our 
ascent  will  now  be  rapid  until  wo  pass  the 
divide  between  Piedmont  and  Aspen.  Near 
here  is  a  cliff  five  hundred  feet  high,  called 
"  Plut'^s  Outlont"  which  can  be  seen  on  the 
left  of  the  track  three  miles  west. 

Leroy  is  the  next  station.  It  is  919.1  miles 
from  Omalia,  and  7,123  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea.  In  passing  over  only  five  miles  of 
road,  we  have  ascended  nearly  350  feet.  Leav- 
ing this  place,  you  will  observe  old  telegraph 
poles  still  standing  on  the  left  of  the  track. 
They  mark  the  line  of  the  old  overland  road. 
About  two  miles  west  of  Leroy,  at  the  base  of 
a  hill  or  bluff,  south  of  the  track,  are  some  ex- 
cellent soda  springs.  They  are  near  the  road, 
and  trains  sometimes  stop  to  enable  passengers 
to  drink  the  water.  The  water  is  highly  recom- 
mended for  the  cure  of  dyspepsia  and  toning' 
up  of  the  system.  The  folio-. ring  is  an  analysis 
of  tiie  water  as  made  by  Assistant  Surgeon 
Smart,  of  the  United  States  Army.  It  should 
be  stated,  however,  that  the  very  important 
element  of  carbonic  acid  could  not  be  deter- 
mined, as  much  of  this  had  escaped  while  the 
water  was  in  transit  from  the  spring  to  Camp 
Douglas,  Utali:  obainb,  per  oaij. 

Carbonate  of  Magnesia 50.680 

Carbonate  of  Lime 58.674 

Sulphate  of  Lime 41.104 

Sulphate  of  Soda  (Glauber's  salts) ....  116.655 
Chloride  of  Sodium  (common  salt) ....  270.200 
Iron  and  Alumina 1.162 

Total 538,475 

Potassium  is  nJso  present  in  small  quantity. 
The  hills  and  vaUeys  in  this  vicinity  con- 
tinue to  abound  iu  agates  and  other  curious 
specimens,  while  soda,  iron  and  fresh  water 
springs  are  numerous,  sometimes  in  close 
proximity  to  each  other. 

I'ledmonf. — Here  the  road,  after  crossing  it, 
leaves  the  Muddy,  which  comes  in  from  the 
soutii.  This  station  is  ten  miles  from  Leroy, 
929.1  miles  from  Omaha,  and  haa  on  elevation  o| 


106 


I  i '  ( 


7,510  feet.  In  summer,  the  scenery  along  this 
part  of  the  road  is  delightful,  while  in  winter  the 
storms  are  severe,  the  wind  blowing  almost  a 
constant  gale,  while  the  snow  drifts  mountains 
high.  Tliere  are  several  snow  sheds  along  this 
part  of  the  road,  the  longest  being  on  the  sum- 
mit, 2,701)  feet  in  length.  The  road  having  to 
wind  around  the  spurs  and  into  the  depressions 
of  the  hills,  is  very  crooked,  in  one  place  doub- 
ling back  on  itself.  We  are  now  crossing  a  high 
ridge    in    the 


Uintah  Mount- 
ains, and  the 
second  highest 
elevation  o:i  the 
Union  Pacific. 
Off  to  the  left 
these  mountains 
in  higher,  grand- 
er forms,  lift 
their  summits 
toward  the 
clouds,  and  are 
most  always 
covered  with 
snow,  while 
their  sides  are 
lined  with  dark 
green — the  col- 
or of  the  pine 
forests,  which 
partially  envel- 
op them.  While 
the  road  was  be- 
ing built,  large 
quantities  o  f 
ties,  telegraph 
poles  and  bridge 
timber.were  cut 
on  the  Foot 
Hills,  near  these 
mountains,  and 
delivered  to  the 
company.  A' >out 
two  miles  north- 
west of  Pied- 
mont, is  a  won- 
derful Soda 
Spring.  The 
aedimant  or  de- 
posits    of    this 


are  used  in  this  country  for  the  manufacture  of 
charcoal  foi  the  smelting  works  of  Utah.  There 
are  more  of  them  at  Ililliard  and  Evanston,  und 
they  will  be  more  fully  described  then. 

Leaving  Piedmont,  the  road  makes  a  long 
curve,  like  a  horse-shoe  doubling  on  itself,  and, 
finally,  reaches  the  summit  of  the  divide  in  » 
long  snow  shed,  one  of  the  longest  on  the  road. 

Asiicn, — the  next  station.  It  is  938.5  miles 
from  Omaha,  and  has  a  reported  elevation  of 

7,835  feet.      It 


\  \  \  \  \  \  y  \  I  }  \  \   I  I  I  '^ 

\    \  v  \  \  \  J  )  .'  J  >  .'■/  ,'  ,'  )  ,'  / 

>'      '^    '>   \   \  )   !    )  .'  .1  M  '    '  i  .'  ,'    ' 

'"   \    )    \  )  %\  »    ^  I  I  I  1  I    I  I  ;  /     ^  ' 

k    V      \     \    \    X    r^i    I    1  1  I    I    r     I    I    I     I      I    ' 


f    // 


I J  A.V.ji)i.r* 


INTERIOR  OF   SNOW 

spring  have  built  up  a  conical-shaped  body  with  a 
basin  on  the  top.  In  this  basin  the  water  app(\ars, 
to  a  small  extent,  and  has  «:vidently  somotimo 
had  a  greater  flow  than  at  present ;  but,  as  similar 
springs  have  broken  out  around  the  base  of  this 
cone,  the  pressure  on  the  main  spring  has,  doubt- 
less, been  relieved,  and  its  flow,  ct.asequcntly, 
lessened.  The  cone  is  about  15  feet  high  and  is 
well  worthy  of  a  visit  from  the  tourist.  At 
Piedmont,  the  traveler  will  first  observe  the  per- 
manent coal  pits,  built  of  stone  and  brick,  which 


18  not  a  great 
distance—  only 
about  two  miles 
— from  the  sum- 
mit. Evidences 
of  change  in  the 
formation  of  the 
country  are 
everywhere  visi- 
ble, and  the 
change  affords  a 
marked  relief  to 
the  weary  mo- 
notony of  the 
desolate  plains 
over  which  we 
have  pa8  8e(^. 
Down  the  grade 
we  now  pass 
rapidly,  w  1 1  li 
high  hills  on 
either  side  of 
the  track  — 
through  a  lovely 
valley,  with  an 
occasional  fill, 
and  through  a 
deep  cut,  to  the 
next  station. 
HilUartl,— 
This  station, 
opened  for  busi- 
ness in  1873.  is 
943.5  miles  from 
Omaha,  with  an 
elevation  of 
7,310  feet.  The 
town  owes  its 
importance  to 
sHEns,  u.  I-.  R  R.  the   H  i  1 1  i  ar  tl 

Flume  &  Lumber  Company,  which  has  extensive 
property  interests  here,  and  in  the  vicinity.  In, 
approaching  the  town  from  Aspen,  the  road 
passes  down  a  "  draw "  or  ravine,  through 
a  en;  on  a  curve,  and  near  this  placu 
enters  the  Bear  River  Valley,  one  of  th() 
most  beautiful,  and  so  far  as  has  been  demon- 
strated, fertile  valleys  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
Two  things  excite  the  curiosity  of  the  traveler 
if  he  has  never  seen  them  before;  one  is  the  coal 
pits,  and  the  other  is  the  elevated  flume  under 


107 


or  the  manufactui-b  of 
works  of  Utah.   There 
ird  and  Evaiiston,  mid 
jcribedthen. 
e  road   makes  a  long 
)ubliiig  on  itself,  and, 
lit  of  the  divide  in  a 
B  longest  on  the  road, 
on.    Jt  is  908.5  miles 
reported  elevation  of 
7,835  feet.      It 
is  not  a   great 
distance—  only 
about  two  miles 
— from  the  sum- 
mit.   Evidences 
of  change  in  the 
formation  of  the 
country     are 
everywhere  visi- 
ble,     and     the 
change  affords  a 
marked  relief  to 
the    weary  mo- 
^  notony    of    the 
desolate    plains 
over  which   we 
have   passed. 
Down  the  gracle 
we     now    pass 
rapidly,    with 
high     hills     on 
either    side    of 
the    track  — 
through  a  lovely 
valley,  with  an 
occasional     fill, 
and    through  a 
deep  cut,  to  the 
next  station. 
Hilliartf,— 
Thia    station, 
opened  for  busi- 
ness in  1873,  is 
943.5  miles  from 
Omaha,  with  an 
elevation  of 
7,310  feet.    The 
town    owes    its 
importance     to 
the  Hilliard 
whicli  has  extensive 
in  the  vicinity.      In, 
1    Aspen,  the    roail 
ravine,    through 
near     this    place 
alley,   one    of    the 
IS  has  been  demon- 
Rocky  Mountains. 
ity  of  the   traveler 
"ore;  one  is  the  coal 
avated  flume  under 


r 


>i 


which  trains  of  cars  pass.  This  flume,  built  of 
timber  and  boards,  is  24  miles  long,  and  is  2,000 
feet  higher  where  it  Ijrst  takes  the  water  fiom 
Bear  lliver,  than  where  it  empties  the  same  at 
Hilliard.  The  greatest  fall  in  any  one  mile  is 
320  feet.  The  timber  which  is  brought  to  the 
station  by  this  flume,  is  obtained  in  large 
amounts  in  the  foot  hills  of  the  Uintah  Mount- 
ains, or  on  the  mountains  themselves  and  is 
mostly  pine.  The  saw-mill  of  the  company, 
erected  at  the  head  of  this  flume,  has  a  capacity 
of  40,000  feet  in  24  hours,  with  an  engine  of  40 
horse-power. 
Over  2,000,000 
feet  of  lumber 
were  consumed 
in  the  construc- 
tiou  of  this 
flume,  and  its 
branches  in  the 
mountains. 
Through  it 
cord-wood,  lum- 
ber, ties  and 
saw-logs  are 
floated  down  to 
the  railroad. 
The  cord-wood 
is  used  for  char- 
coal. You  will 
observe  the  con- 
ical shaped  pits 
in  which  it  is 
made,  near  the 
railway  track, 
on  the  right,  as 
you  pass  west- 
ward. There 
are  29  pits  or 
kilns  at  Hilli- 
ard, nineteen 
small  ones,  and 
ten  large  ones. 
The  small  kilns 
require  twenty- 
six  cords  of 
wood  at  a  fill- 
ing, and  the 
large  ones  fortv  cords.  The  small  ones  cost 
about  iJ750,  each ;  the  large  ones  .fSOO.  These 
kilns  consume  2,000  cords  of  wood  per  month, 
and  produce  100.000  bushels  of  charcoal  as  a  re- 
sult, in  the  same  time.  There  are  other  kilns 
about  nine  miles  south  of  the  town,  in  active  oper- 
ation. There  are  fine  iron  and  sulphur  springs 
within  three-fourths  of  a  mile  of  the  station. 
The  reddish  appearance  of  the  mountain  we 
have  just  passed  indicates  the  presence  of  iron 
in  th'  icinity  in  large  (]uantities,  and  coal  also 
begii;^  CO  crop  out  in  ditiferent  places  as  we  go 
down  the  valley.  Bear  River  is  renowned  for 
its  trout.     They  are  caught  south  of  the  road  in 


ROCK  COT,  NEAR  ASPEN, 


the  mountain  tributaries,  and  north  of  Evans- 
ton,  in  Bear  River  Lake.  Though  the  countiy 
has  soiyiewhat  changed  in  appearance,  and  a  dif- 
ferent formation  has  been  entered  upon,  we  have 
not  passed  the  region  of  agates  and  gems, 
precious  and  otherwise.  They  are  found  in  the 
vicinity  ot  Hilliard,  in  large  quantities,  together 
with  numerous  petrifactions  of  bones,  etc.,  with 
fossilized  fish,  shells,  ferns  and  other  materials. 

Twenty-five  miles  a  little  south-west  of  Hil- 
liard are  found  two  sulphur  mountains.  The 
sulphur  is  nearly  90  per  cent,  pure,  in  inex- 
haustible quan- 
tities. 

The  scenery  of 
the  Upper  Bear 
River  is  rugged 
and  grand. 
About  20  miles 
south  of  Hil- 
liard is  a  nat- 
ural fort  which 
was  taken  pos- 
session of  by  a 
gang  of  horse 
thieves  and  cut. 
throats,  under 
the  lead  of  one 
Jack  Watkins, 
a  genuine  front- 
ier ruffian,  who, 
with  his  com- 
panions, for  a 
long  time  re- 
sisted all  at- 
tempts at  cap« 
ture. 

The  hills  and 
mountiiins  in 
this  vicinity 
abound  in 
game,  and  offer 
rare  induce- 
ments to  sports- 
m  e  n .  The 
country  around 
both  Hilliard 
and  Evanston  is 
the  natural  home  for  bears,  elk,  deer,  catamounts, 
lynx,  wolves,  coyotes,  wolverines,  beaver,  mink, 
foxes,  badgers,  mountain  lions,  wild  cats,  jack 
rabbits,  etc.,  grouse  sage  hens,  quails  and  ducks 
in  the  spring  and  fall.  Not  far  noi.n  of  Evans- 
ton,  on  Beai-  River,  is  Bear  Lake,  ten  miles  in 
length,  and  from  five  to  eight  in  breadth.  The 
bouiuliuy  lino  bfitween  Idaho  and  Utah  passes 
directly  across  the  lake  from  east  to  west. 

Soda  Sfn'inffs.—Favther  north,at  the  Big  Bend 
of  Bear  River,  the  most  interesting  group  of  soda 
springs  known  on  the  Continent,  occupy  some 
six  square  miles.  To  those  graced  with  steam 
vents,  Fremont  gave  the  name  of  Steamboat 


108 


FMB  Ps8CiFi€  FO&miSr. 


Springs,  from  the  noise  they  maKe  like  a  low- 
pressure  engine.  Noar  by  is  a  spring  with  an 
orifice  brightly  stained  with  a  brilliant  yellow 
coating  of  oxide  of  iron,  from  which  tiie  water  is 
thrown  up  two  feet, 

lufieiuiuUeuce  Rock. — This  has  long  been 
a  noted  landmark,  for  travelers  on  the  old  over- 
land wagon  route.  Its  base  which  borders  the 
road  is  literally  covered  with  names  and  dates, 
some  of  thera.even  before  Fremont's  expedition 
crossed  the  Continent — many  more  well  known. 

The  Sweetwater  River  flows  immediately 
along  the  southern  end  of  it,  and  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  stream  is  another  ridge  similar  to  it, 
continuing  from  the  south-west,  which  was  once 
connected  with  it.  It  is  a  huge  example  of  dis- 
integration; its  rounded  form  resembles  an 
oblong  hay-stack,  with  layers  of  rocks  lapping 
over  the  top  and  sides  of  t^ie  mass.    Thin  layers 


another  conspicuous  landmark, — the  Twin  Peaks, 
which  really  are  but  one  high  peak  in  the  ridge, 
clei't  down  the  jeutre,  dividing  it  in  two,  nearly  to  | 
the  base.  ' 

Fieiv  in  t/ie  Uintah  Mountains. — The  I 
view  we  give  on  page  78,  is  taken  from  Photo- 

fraph  Ridge,  elevation,  10,829  feet.  —  by  the 
layden  Exploring  Expedition,  and  is  one  of  the 
grandest  and  most  perfect  mountain  views  in  the 
West.  The  traveler,  as  he  passes  rajndly 
through  Echo  and  Weber  Canons,  and  casually 
notices  the  chain  of  mountains  at  the  south,  eaii 
form  no  idea  of  their  beauty  and  grandeur. 
Professor  Hayden  says  of  this  view  "  In  the  fore- 
groimd  of  cur  view  is  a  picturesque  group 
of  the  mojntain  pines.  In  the  middle  dis- 
tance, gliramering  in  the  sunlight  like  a  silver 
thread,  m  Black's  Fork,  meandering  through 
grassy,  lawn-like  parks,  the  eye  following  it  up 


IHDEPEMDEMCB  ROCK. 


have  been  broken  off  in  part,  and  huge  masses 
are  scattered  all  around  it.  On  some  portions  of 
the  sides  they  lap  down  to  the  ground,  with  so 
gentle  a  descent  that  one  can  walk  up  to  the  top 
without  difficulty.  The  rock  has  a  circum- 
ference of  1,550  yards.  The  north  end  is  193 
feet  in  height,  and  the  opposite  end,  167  feet, 
with  a  depression  in  the  center  of  75  feet. 

JDevit'H  Gttte  on  the  Sweetwater. — Follow- 
ing up  the  valley  from  Independence  Rock,  and 
five  miles  north,  is  another  celebrated  natural 
curiosity.  The  Devil's  Gate,  a  canon  which  the 
S.<eetwater  River  has  worn  through  the  Granite 
Ridge  cutting  it  at  right-angles.  The  walls  are 
vertical,  being  about  350  feet  high,  and  the  dis- 
tance through  is  about  300  yards.  The  current 
of  the  stream  through  the  gate  is  slow,  finding 
its  way  among  the  fallen  masses  of  rock,  with 
gentle,  easy  motion,  and  pleasant  murmur. 

Fifteen  miles  farther  above  the  Devil's  Gate,  is 


to  its  sources,  among  the  everlasting  snowf,  of 
the  summit  ridge.  The  peaks  or  cones  in  the 
distance,  are  most  distinctly  stratified  and  ap- 
parently horizontal  or  neai  ly  so,  with  their  sum- 
mits far  above  the  limits  of  perpetual  snow,  and 
from  1,500  to  2,000  feet  above  the  springs  that 
rise  from  the  streams  below." 

01lhet't*H  Peak, — is  one  of  the  highest  peaks 
of  the  Uintah  Mountain  Range,  named  after 
General  Gilbert  of  the  U.  S.  A.  It  has  near  its 
summit  a  beautiful  lake  of  11,000  feet,  and 
above  this  rises  the  peak  abruptly  2,250  more. 
Total,  13,250  feet. 

Throughout  these  mountains  are  very  many 
lakes, — which  gather  among  the  rocks  bordered 
with  dense  growth  of  spruce  trees,  and  form  a 
characteristic  feature  of  the  scenery. 

Beai'  Hirer  Citff. — After  leaving  Hilliard, 
the  road,  as  it  continues  down  the  valley  of  Sul- 
phur  Creek,  passes  the  site  of  Bear  River  City,  a 


F«B  f^^ciFw  r&Miisr. 


109 


nark, — the  7'jfm  Peah, 
ligh  jjeak  in  the  ridge, 
ding  it  ill  two,  nearly  to 

h  Mountains.— 'V\\i\ 

,  is  taken  from  Phtito- 

10,829    feet.  — by  tliel 

ition,  and  is  one  of  the 

.  mountain  views  in  tlie 

kS    he    passes    rapidly  I 

r  Canons,  and  casually 

itains  at  the  south,  caii 

•eauty    and    grandeur. 

this  view  "  In  the  fore- 

a    picturesque    group 

In   the  middle   dig- 

sunlight  like  a  silver 

meandering    through 

e  eye  following  it  up 


everlasting  snowf,  of 
aks  or  cones  in  the 
tly  stratified  and  ap- 
ly  so,  with  their  smn- 

perpetual  snow,  and 
jovfc  the  springs  that 

B  of  the  highest  peaks 
Range,  named  after 
A.  It  has  near  its 
of  11, (KK)  feet,  and 
ibruptly  2,250  more. 

ains  are  very  many 

:  the  rocks   bordered 

ce  trees,  and  form  a 

scenery. 

tcr  leaving  Hilliard, 

vn  the  valley  of  Sul. 

)f  Bear  River  City,  a 


»nce  famous  town,  but  which  now  has  not  a  sin- 
gle building  to  raaik  where  it  once  stood;  a  mile 
and  a  half  west  of  Hilliard  will  be  seen  the  head- 
boards of  the  graves  of  early-<lay  rioters.  The 
city  was  laid  out  in  18G8,  and  tor  a  time  there 
was  high  spscuiation  in  lots,  and  once  the  popula- 
tion reached  as  high  as  2,001)  persons.  Fre- 
quent garrotings,  dt3aths  and  robberies,  led  to  the 
organization  of  a  vigilance  committee,  who  hung 
three  of  the  desperadoes.  An  iictivH  figlit  after- 
wards ensued 
between  the 
citizens  and 
the  mob,  who 
had  organized 
to  revenge  the 
death  of  one 
of  their  num- 
ber. The  citi- 
zens were  well 
protected  b  y 
the  wall  of  a 
store,  and  by 
active  firing 
killed  16  of  the 
rioters,  with 
other  losses, 
never  known. 
From  that  day 
the  place  was 
dropped  by  the 
railroad,  and 
it  faded  en- 
tirely away. 

MiMiH  —  is 
the  next  sta- 
tion, 947.5 
miles  from 
Omaha,  with 
an  elevation  of 
6,790  feet.  It 
^  is  an  unim- 
portant sidj 
track,  where 
trains  occa- 
sionally pass. 
Its  location  is 
about  a  mile 
and  a  half  be- 
low or  west  of 
the  site  of  Bear 

River    City.  thb  devil's  gate 

Leaving  Millis  the  road  soon  crosses  Bear  River 
over  a  low  trwtle-work — an  opening  being  left 
in  the  embankment  for  the  passage  of  surplus 
water  in  time  of  freshets.  The  entire  valley 
here  has  been  known  to  be  covered  with  water 
in  the  spring. 

Evanitt.on, — 957  miles  from  Omaha;  eleva- 
tion, 6.770  feet.  It  is  the  county-seat  of 
Uintah  County,  Wyoming  Territory,  and  the 
last  town    going   west,  in  Wyoming.    It    con- 


tains about  1,500  people,  and  is  a  thriving 
business  place,  owing  to  proximity  of  the  coal 
mines,  its  lumber  interests  and  tiie  location  of 
the  division  roundliouse  of  twenty  stalls,  with 
car  and  machine-shops — giving  constant  employ- 
ment to  a  large  number  of  men.  Ihe  town  is 
located  on  the  western  bank  ol  Bear  River,  and 
has  abundant  water  power  that  might  be  utilized 
in  various  manui'actories.  A  laige  saw -mill,  run 
by  a  lumber  company,  gets  its  1    s  from  the 

mountains  to- 
ward the  htad 
of  the  stream. 
They  are  rolled 
into  the  river, 
and  floated 
down  to  the 
mill.  This 
place,  also,  has 
a  few  charcoal 
kilns— hiniber, 
coal  and  char- 
coal, being  the 
principal  prod- 
u  c  t  s  of  the 
town.  Evans- 
ton  is  a  regu- 
lar dinner  star 
tion — traint 
from  the  east 
and  west  stop- 
ping thirty 
minutes  for 
dinner.  You 
will  dine  at  ths 
"Mountain 
Trout  Hotel," 
a  well-kept 
houce,  where 
everything  is 
scrupulously 
neat — the  food 
being  plainly, 
but  well  cook- 
ed. At  this 
house,  the  trav- 
eler will  find 
regular  Chi- 
nese waiters, 
dressed  in  Chi- 
nese  costume, 

ON  THE  SWEETWATER.  quick,  pO  1  i  t  C 

and  attentive,  and  you  can  here  gratify  your  cu- 
riosity by  seeing  and  talking  with  them.  Game 
and  trout  will  usually  be  found  on  the  tables,  in 
their  season.  The  proximity  of  this  eating-sta- 
tion, and  the  one  kept  at  Green  River,  to  the  great 
trout-fishing  regions  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
creates  an  expectation,  on  the  part  of  the  traveler, 
that  he  will  usually  find  the  speckled  beauties 
served  up  at  these  stations,  nor  is  he  often  dis- 
appointed, in  the  proper  season  of  the  year. 


'.' 


?V| 


no 


ii-; }' 


C'':''?! 


m.f 


p,.i..\.. 


The  town  has  good  schools,  three  or  four 
churches  and  an  excellent  coxirt-housc.  A  good 
weekly  neAvspaper — *'  Hie  Evanston  A^r"  ia 
published  here.  Bear  River,  which  runs  tin-ough 
this  place,  rises  in  the  Uintah  Mountaiu.s,  on  the 
south,  and  runs  in  a  general  northerly  direction 
to  the  great  soda  springs  in  Idaho,' about  120 
miles  directly  north  of  Echo  City.  It  then  turns 
to  the  south-west  and  empties  into  Great  Salt 
Lake,  near  Corinne.  Its  valley  is  pretty  well 
settled  by  Mormons,  and  others,  all  the  way 
round  its  great  bend.  Near  the  location  of  these 
soda  springs,  and.  at  the  northern  extremity  of 
Bear     River  "  ~ 

Mountains,  evi- 
dences of  vol- 
canic action  are 
everywhere  visi- 
ble, and  extinct 
CBaters  are  no 
uncommon 
thing. 

Evanston  i  s 
built  mostly  on 
the  left  side  of 
the  track,  as  you 
enter  the  town, 
the  valley  ris- 
ing into  the  hill 
behind  it.  This 
hill,  were  it  not 
for  the  hard 
winds  and  deep 
snows  of  winter, 
would  afford 
some  very  fine 
building  spots, 
and  for  summer 
residences  must 
b  e  delightful. 
In  winter,  how- 
ever, some  of 
the  little  houses 
that  skirt  the 
hill  on  the  west- 
ern borders  of 
the  place,  are 
literally  covered 

with  snow  which  drifts  over  the  hills  from 
the  south.  The  agricultural  prospects  of  the 
valley,  lower  down,  are  said  to  be  flattering 
— the  Mormon  farmers  producing  fine  crops. 
Near  Evanston  there  are  a  number  of  cattle 
ranches  where  hay  is  cut,  and  cattie  have  to  be 
fed  i\ni  sheltered  diiriiyg  the  winter.  There  have 
also  been  some  successful  experiments  in  raising 
potatoes,  cabba-iiT's.  turnips,  parsnips,  radishes,  hst- 
tuce,  onions  and  other  "  garden  truck,"  while  oats, 
barley  and  wheat  can  undoiibtedly  be  raised  in 
favorable  seasons.  Notice  the  altitude  of  this 
place,  and  then  the  traveler  can  form  the  best 
opinion  as  to  whether  agriculture,  as  a  steady  busi- 


LAKE  LAL,  OR  MOORE'S  LAKK,  RRAD  OF  BRAR  R^VRR. 

as  you  proceed  west. 


ness,  can  be  made  successful.  Candor  coinpelil 
us  further  to  say  that  frosts  may  happen  duiinj' 
every  one  of  the  sunnner  months. 

Spoi'Huii, — Evanston,  however,  possesses  all 
the  attractions  which  delight  the  sportsniaa 
The  mountains  to  the  north  and  south,  and  th« 
high  hills  in  the  innnediate  vicinity,  are  full  of 
game,  while  Bear  River  is  renowned  for  its  tiout 
The  streams  flowing  into  Bear  River,  on 
either  side,  both  north  and  south  of  tlm 
town,  are  full  of  trout,  and  afford  excellent 
sport  in  those  seasons  of  the  year  when  theirl 
catching    is     not    prohibited    by    law,    whilel 

Bear  Lake,  some  I 
sixty    milesj 
north,   from  all  I 
that    we    could  I 
learn   about  it,! 
is     the    chosen  I 
home    of    trout  | 
and     the     venl 
paradise  of  fisli-^ 
ernien.       Siwt] 
ing  parties  caul 
obtain     guides, 
outfits,  and  I 
accommodations  I 
at  E  V  a  n  s  1 0 11, 1 
from    which 
place  they   caul 
hunt,  fish,  visit 
the    Sulphur 
Mountains,  and 
search    for   fos- 
sils, etc.,  to  their 
heart's  content 
It  is  one  of  the 
most    favorable 
points    on    the 
line  of  the  road 
for     recreation 
and  amusement, 
and  Mill,  event- 
ually, become  a 
noted  resort  for 
tourists. 

Chinamen  be- 
gin to  thicken 
Evanston  they  have 
quite  a  settlement,  the  shanties  and  buildings 
on  the  right  of  the  track  and  op]X)site  the  dejiot 
being  "China  Town."  Here  they  have  their 
"  Joss  "  house,  saloons  and  residences.  A  h  Saij, 
their  head  man,  speaks  very  good  Englis-h,  lias 
his  Chinese  wife  with  him,  and  with  the  excp- 
tion  of  the  inevitable  "  cue,"  dresses  and  apjieais 
Hkc  the  Americans,  with  whom  lie  has  now  lived 
for  about  fifteen  years. 

About  tferee  miles  from  Evanston,  on  the  er..4 
side  of  Bear  River,  is  Alma,  the  coal  initic-«' 
town.  Here  coal  mines  belonging  to  the  Cen- 
tral  Pacific,  the  Union  Tacific,  and  to  S.  H. 


At 


Ill 


Winsor  are  woikod.  Mr.  Wiiisor  is  just  open- 
injT  his  mine — which  is  iifiarcst  to  Eviiustoii — 
while  tliB  otiier  mines  have  been  woriii'tl  for 
some  time.  "  Tlie  Rocky  Mouiitaiii  Coal  Com- 
pany," is  the  name  of  tlie  coriwration  wiiicli 
supplies  the  Central  Pacific  witli  coal.  In  1875, 
this  company  mined  98,897  tons,  or  9,890  cars 
of  coal.  They  have  tliree  mines  open.  In  one 
year,  not  lonp  since,  they  mined  about  150,000 
tons,  or  15,000  cars.  The  Union  Pacific  having 
otiier  mines  along  their  road  do  not,  of  course, 
mine  as  much  here  as  does  the  Itocky  Mountain 
Company. 

A  Mountain  on  fire. 

Do  not  be  startled  at  this  announcement,  yet 
this  is  a  genuine  fact ;  the  companies  operating 
these  mines,  have  been  put  to  immense  labor  and 
expense  to  keep  under  control  an  immense  fire  in 
their  coal  veins.  These  mines  took  fire  from 
spontaneous  combustion  in  this  way.  They 
perliaps  took  out  too  much  coal  in  the  first 
place,  that  is,  did  not  leave  pillars  enough 
to  support  the  ovorhau'^ing  walls;  what  is 
called  "  slack " — coal  that  has  crumbled  by 
action  of  air — was  also  allowed  to  accumulate 
in  the  mine.  The  vein  of  fire  clay  next 
above  the  vein  of  coal  fell  down  on  this  slack, 
and  caused  spontaneous  combustion  of  the 
coal  underneath  it.  A  fire  with  a  perpetual 
supply  of  fuel  is  rather  a  hard  thing  to  master, 
and  in  a  coal  mine  generally  awakens  no  small 
amount  of  anxiety.  In  fact,  it  is  very  danger- 
ous. As  soon  as  it  was  discovered,  and  its  loca- 
tion fixed,  the  company  immediately  began  to 
wall  around  it ;  they  ceased  all  operations  in  its 
immediate  vicinity,  and  with  rock,  lime  and 
sand,  made  their  air-tight  walls  along  "the 
slopes,"  between  "  the  rooms  "  and  across  "  the 
air  passages,"  until  the  outside  air  was  com- 
pletely shut  out,  and  the  fire  entirely  shut  in, 
and  awaited  further  developments.  Occasionally 
it  breaks  out  over  a  piece  of  this  wall,  and  then 
they  begin  farther  back  and  wall  .again.  But 
the  fire  is  not  extinguished  and  probably  never 
will  be.  Water  will  not  quench  it,  its  action  on 
the  fire  clay  only  incre<ases  the  difiiculty.  Inside 
of  these  fire  walls,  pillar  after  pillar  of  the  coal 
left  standing  to  support  the  roof  has  been  con- 
sumed, and  the  earth  and  rocks  above  have 
fallen  into  the  cavity,  leaving  great  cr<aterson  the 
sid^  of  the  mountain,  and  the  rock-ribbed  pile 
itself  has  seamed  and  cracked  op^n  in  jilaces  above 
the  burning  fires.  Air  has  thus  got  in  and  the 
rains  and  melting  snows  of  spring  run  into  these 
iissure?  and  craters,  dissolving  the  fire  clay,  and 
thus  add  to  the  extent  of  the  burning  masa. 
But  eve\7thing  goes  on  around  the  mine  with- 
out excitement,  and  as  though  nothing  had  hap- 
pened. WtVtihmen  are  kept  on  duty  all  the  time, 
and  the  first  appearance  of  the  fire  near  the 
walls  id  dekifted  and  a  new  wall  built.    And 


thus  while  the  smouldering  fires  are  burning  up 
tile  coal  in  one  part  of  the  mine,  men  are  taking 
it  out  unconcernedly  in  anotiier  part,  to  supply 
the  locomotives  with  the  iwwer  to  generate 
steam 

How  long  the  fire  will  burn  no  one  can  tell. 
It  will  only  .stop  when  the  fuel  upon  which 
it  feeds  is  exhausted,  and  this  can  only  be 
cut  off  by  mining  all  around  it,  taking  out 
the  full  thickness  of  the  vein — 20  feet — and 
thus  exhausting  the  supply.  It  will  then  cave 
in  and  the  rest  of  the  mine  can  be  saved. 
Coal  mining  has  its  dangers,  not  the  least 
of  which  are  "slack  and  waste"  which  result 
in  fires.  In  Mine  No.  1,  of  the  Rocky  Mount- 
ain Coal  Company,  the  fire  is  confined  in  p  space 
250  by  COO  feetl  In  Mine  No.  2,  owned  by 
same  company,  it  is  confined  by  a  space  175  by 
1,100  feet. 

A  Valnnhle  Coal  Mine. — Leaving  Evans- 
ton,  in  about  two  miles  the  branch  to  Alma 
turns  off  to  the  right,  and  the  town  with 
hoisting  works  of  the  coal  companies  can 
be  plainly  seen,  together  with  a  beautiful  view 
down  the  Bear  River  Valley.  On  what  is  called 
Twin  Creek,  down  this  valley,  the  Wyoming  Coal 
&  Coke  Company,  have  discovered  and  located  a 
coal  mine  41  miles  due  north  from  Evanston. 
The  mine  is  on  the  east  side  of  Bear  River. 
This  company  has  what  it  claims  to  be  a  mount- 
ain of  coal.  The  veins  on  the  ground  level  are 
four  and  one-half  feet  thick,  aoove  it  there  are 
about  six  feet  of  slate ;  then  a  ten  foot  vein  of 
coal ;  then  sandstone  about  five  feet  thick — 
w  hat  miners  call  "  Winn  rock ; "  then  three 
feet  of  fire  clay ;  then  two  feet  of  coal ;  then  al- 
ternate layers  of  fire  clay  and  coal  26  feet ;  then 
125  feet  of  solid  fire  clay ;  then  sandstone,  lime- 
stone, etc.,  to  the  summit,  it  being  about  400 
feet,  above  the  level  surface  around  it.  From 
the  statements  made  in  these  pages  it  will  be 
seen  that  the  immenso  coal  measures  of  the 
Union  Pacific  Railway  supply  nearly  the  entire 
rclfiern  half  of  the  great  trans-Missouri  region 
with  fuel.  The  "bonanza"  silver  mines  of 
Nevada,  the  gold  fields  of  California,  the  gold 
and  bilver  bolts  of  Colorado,  and  the  great 
wheat  lands  and  pastures  of  Wyoming  and 
Nebraska  all  in  the  end  pay  important  tribute 
',o  these  never-ending  deposits  of  lignites. 

A  Mountain  of  Salj^hur. — Forty  miles 
southeast  of  Evanston  is  a  perfect  mountain  of 
sulphur.  The  immense  deposit  carries  from  50 
to  90  percent,  of  pure  sulphur.  A  United  States 
patent  has  been  secured  on  the  property  by  a 
company  of  wostem  gentleme.  Flowing  oil 
springs  have  also  been  discovered  ten  miles  east 
of  Evanston,  and  ore  in  process  of  utilization. 
The  surface  oil  is  found  to  be  equal  to  the  best  of 
heavy  lubricating  oils  for  engines  or  locomotives. 

If  ahsatch — A  telegraph  station  on  the  divide 
between  Bear  River  Valley  and  Echo  Canon.    Tt 


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KfK;KS  NEAR  ECHO  CITY. 
1.— Bromley's  CathedrsL   2.--CiuUe  Uock.   3.— TIm  QniAt  EMtora.   4.— Hanging  Book. 


FMB  ^aCiFIC  WOntiST. 


113 


is  008  miles  from  Omaha,  and  reported  to  be 
6,879  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  road 
here  crosses  a  low  pass  in  the  Wahsatch  Range 
of  Mountains.  As  yoii  aacer.  d  the  beautiful  val- 
ley leading  to  this  station,  the  grim  peaks  of  the 
Unitahs  tower  up  in  the  distance  on  your  left, 
while  the  adjoiiimg  hills  shut  out  the  higher  ele- 
vations of  the  Wahsatch  Range,  on  the  north. 
Leaving  Evanston,  the  road  turns  abruptly  to 
the  left,  and  tlie  town  and  valley  are  soon  lost  to 
sight.  Four  miles  out,  on  the  left  side  of  the 
track,  the  traveler  will  notice  a  sign  put  up  on  a 
post— the  east  side  of  which  reads,  "  Wyoming, " 
tlie  west  side,  "  Utah."  Wahsatch  was  formerly 
a  terminus  of  a  sub-division  of  the  road,  and 
contained  the  regular  dining-hall  of  the  company, 
with  roundhouse,  machine  and  repair  shops,  etc. 
The  water  in  the  tank  is  supplied  from  a  mount- 
ain spring  near  by,  and  a  ««Y"  for  turning 
engines,  and  a  small  house  to  shelter  one,  is 
about  all  that  is  left  of  a  once  famous  town. 

Artesian  IFeUn. — It  has  been  our  candid 
opinion  that  the  great  plains,  basins  and  alkali 
deserts  which  lie  between  the  Rocky  Mountains 
and  Sierras  can  all  be  reclaimed  and  soil  made 
fertile  by  the  sinking  of  artesian  wells.  The  en- 
tire Humboldt  Valley  can  be  made  productive 
by  this  means  alone.  As  a  proof  of  tne  success 
0^  sinking  artesian  wells,  we  can  mention 
several  along  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad.  Com- 
mencing at  Separation  and  terminating  at  Rock 
Springs,  a  distance  of  108  miles,  the  Union 
Pacific  Railroad  has  sunk  successfully  six  arte- 
sian wells : 

One  at  Separation,  6,900  feet  above  sea  level, 
is  1,180  feet  deep,  the  water  rising  to  within  10 
feet  of  the  surface. 

Ai,  Creston,  7,030  feet  elevation,  the  well  is 
only  300  feet  deep,  furnishing  abundant  supply 
of  water  at  that  point. 

At  Washakie,  6,697  feet  elevation,  the  well  is  638 
feet  deep.  The  water  rises  15  feet  above  the  sur- 
face, and  flows  at  the  rate  of  800  gallons  per  hour. 

At  Bitter  Creek.  6,685  feet  elevation,  the  well 
is  696  feet  deep,  discharging  at  the  surface  1,000 
gallons  per  hour,  and  with  pumping,  yidds  2,160 
gallons  per  hour. 

At  Point  of  Rocks,  elevation  6,490  feet,  the 
well  is  1,000  feet  deep,  and  the  supply  of  water 
abundant,  although  it  does  not  rise  to  the  sur- 
face nearer  than  17  feet. 

At  Rock  Springs,  at  an  elevation  of  6,280  feet, 
the  well  '.s  1,156  niet  deep,  and  discharges  at  the 
surface  960  gallons  per  hour,  or  at  28  feet  above 
the  surface,  571  gallons  per  hour. 

As  the  elevation  of  all  these  places  is  2,000  feet 
or  more  above  the  Salt  Lake  Valley,  and  also  the 
Humboldt  Valley,  there  is  every  probability  that 
the  sinking  of  artesian  wells  in  these  valleys 
would  result  in  an  immense  flow  of  water. 

ChlneHe  Workmen. — The  Chinese  are  em- 
phatically a  peculiar  people,  renowned  for  their 


industry  and  economy.  They  will  live  comf  Drt- 
ably  on  what  the  same  number  of  Aniericans 
would  throw  away.  Their  peculiarities  have 
been  so  often  described  that  a  repetition  of  them 
to  any  great  extent  is  not  needed  here.  Never- 
theless a  sight  of  them  always  awakens  a  curios- 
ity to  know  all  there  is  to  be  known  concerning 
their  customs,  habits,  social  and  moral  relations, 
etc.  A  great  deal  that  they  do  is  mysterious  to  us, 
but  perfectly  plain  and  simple  to  them.  In  their 
habits  of  eating,  for  instance,  wliy  do  they  use 
"  chopsticks "  instead  of  forks  ?  "  Same  as 
'Melican  man's  fork  "  said  one  at.  we  watched  its 
dextrous  use.  Their  principal  articles  of  diet 
seem  to  be  rice  and  poric.  They  reject  the  great 
American  fashion  of  frying  nearly  everything 
they  cook,  and  substitute  boiling  instead.  In 
the  center  of  a  table,  or  on  a  bench  near  by,  thev 
place  a  pan  filled  with  boiled  rice.  To  this  each 
one  of  tne  "  mess  "  will  go  and  fill  his  bowl  with 
a  spoon  or  ladle,  return  to  the  table  and  take  his 
"  chopsticks  " — two  slender  sticks,  about  the 
length  of  an  ordinary  table  knife,  and  operate 
them  V  ith  his  fingers  as  if  they  were  fastened 
together  with  a  pivot,  like  shears,  lifting  the 
bowl  to  his  mouth  ever^  time  he  takes  up  the 
food  wi'xh  the  "chopsticks."  The  pork  for  a 
"  mess  "  will  be  cut  into  small  pieces  and  placed 
in  one  dish  on  the  table  from  which  eacn  one 
helps  himself  with  these  "  chopsticks. "  In 
other  words  "  they  all  dive  into  one  dish  "  for 
their  pork.  They  are  called  "  almond-eyed 
celestials  " — but  did  yc  .  ever  notice  how  much 
their  eyes  resemble  those  of  svnne? 

The  gangs  of  Chinamen  you  meet  with 
are  inefficient  laborers,  i?Ithough  industrious, 
especially  in  the  winter.  We  shall  see  more 
of  them'  by  the  time  we  reach  the  Pacific 
Coast.  Bock  Springs  as  a  tow^n  is  mostly 
composed  of  dug  outs,  shanties,  holes  in 
the  gi*ound,  etc.,  occupied  by  miners,  in- 
cluding Chinamen,  together  with  a  few 
substantial  buildings,  such  as  the  com- 
pany's store,  a  good  school-house,  two  or 
three  ordinary  ^  hotels,  and  the  customaij 
saloons.  The  importance  of  the  town  is 
wholly  due  to  the  coal  trade,  otherwise  it 
would  be  nothing. 

ECHO  AND  WBBEB  CAKONS. 

And  now,  with  full  breath  and  anxious 
heart,  r  pressed  excitement  and  keen  zest, — 
we  anxi -usly  scan  the  scenes  from  car  win- 
dows or  platforms,  and  prepare  for  one  grand, 
rushing  descent  into  the  glories  of  Echo  Canon. 
The  writer  will  never  forget  the  feelings  of  over- 
whelming wonder  and  awe,  as  with  the  seal  of  ad- 
miration in  both  eye  and  lips,  the  ride  through  this 
famous  canon  was  enjoyed.^  Rocks  beside  which 
all  eastern  scenes  were  pigmies,  rose  up  in  astound- 
ing abruptness  and  massiveness — colossal  old  Ti- 
tans of  majestic  dimensions,  and  sublimely  soar* 


lU 


FMM  PiiCIFIC  FO&SIST. 


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ing  summits,  and  perpendicular  siden, — succeeded 
each  other  for  miles,  and  the  little  company  of 
spectators,  seemed  but  an  insignificant  portion  of 
the  handiwork  of  the  Almighty.  The  train  of 
cars,  which,  on  the  plain,  seemed  so  full  of  life, 
and  grand  in  power,  here  was  dwarfed  into 
baby  carriages ;  and  the  shriek  of  the  whistle,  as 
it  echoed  and  resounded  along  the  cliffs  and  from 
rock  to  i-ock,  or  was  hemmed  in  by  the  confines 
of  the  amphitheatre,  appeared  like  entering 
the  portals  to  the  palace  of  some  Terrible 
Being.  Into  the  short  distance  of  sixty  miles 
is  crowded  a  constant  succession  of  those 
scenes  and  objects  of  natural  curiosity,  which 
form  the  most  interesting  part  of  the  road, 
and  have  made  it  world-wide  in  fame.  It 
seems  hard,  after  nearly  a  week  of  expectation 
and  keen  anxiety  for  a  glimpse  of  such 
scenes  of  grandeur,  and  after  more  than  two 
days  of  steady  riding  over  the  smooth  surface  of 
the  rolling  upland  plain,  to  find  all  the  most 
magnificent  objects  of  interest  crowded  into  so 
short  a  space,  and  passed  in  less  than  three 
hours. 

Travelers  must  remember,  however,  that  the 
scenes  witnessed  from  the  railroad  are  but  a  verv 
little  f  ortion  of  the  whole.  To  G^ather  true  re- 
freshing glimpses  of  western  scenery,  the  tourist 
must  get  away  from  the  railroad,  into  the  little 
valleys,  ascend  the  bluffs  and  mountains,  and 
views  yet  more  glorious  will  greet  the  eye.  Echo 
Canon  is  the  most  impressive  scene  that  is  beheld 
for  over  1,500  miles,  on  the  overland  railroad. 
The  constant  succession  of  rocks — each  growing 
more  and  more  huge,  and  more  and  more  perpen- 
dicular and  colossal  in  form — make  the  attrac- 
tions of  the  valley  grow  upon  the  eye  instead  of 
decrease. 

The  observer  enters  the  canon  about  on  a  level 
with  the  top  of  the  rocks,  and  even  can  overlook 
them,  then  gradually  descends  until  at  the  very 
bottom  of  the  valley  the  track  is  so  close  to  the 
foot  of  the  rocks,  the  observer  has  to  elevate  his 
head  with  an  upward  look  of  nearly  00°,  to  scale 
their  summits.  Let  us  now  prep>are  to  descend, 
and  brace  ourselves  eagerly  for  the  exhilaration 
of  the  ride,  the  scenery  of  which  will  live  with 
you  in  memory  for  years. 

EiUerlttg  Echo  Canon.  —  Leaving  Wah- 
satch  we  pass  rapidly  down  grade,  into  the 
canoD,  ana  we  will  point  out,  in  detail,  all 
objects  of  interest  as  they  are  passed,  so  that 
travelers  may  recognize  them.  From  Wahsatch, 
especially,  you  want  to  look  with  all  the  eyes  you 
have,  and  look  quick,  too,  as  one  object  passes 

Suickly  out  of  sight  and  another  comes  into  view, 
ibout  a  mile  from  Wahsatch,  you  will  notice 
what  is  called  the  "  Z  "  canon  where  the  road 
formerly  zigzagged  down  a  small  canon,  on 
the  left,  and  passed  through  the  valley  of  the 
creek  to  near  Castle  Rock  Station,  where  it  united 
with  the  present  line.    Two  miles  farther  on, 


Notice  the  arched 
the  old  castle  ju.st 
colored  side  pieces, 
close  proximity  are 


over  heavy  grades  and  short  curves,  you  fintcr 
tunnel  No.  2,  which  is  1,100  feet  long.  Paxs- 
ing  through  the  tunnel,  the  high  reddi-sh  rock'<, 
moulded  into  eve  y  conceivable  shape,  and 
frequent  side  canuns  cut  through  the  walls  on 
either  side  of  the  road.    You  reauh  at  last 

CaHtle  llock  Station, — about  eight  and  ono- 
half  miles  from  Wahsatch,  076.4  miles  from 
Omaha  with  an  elevation  of  6,200  feet.  It  is  so 
called  from  the  rock  a  little  east  of  the  station 
which  bears  the  same  name, 
doorway  on  one  corner  of 
after  it  is  passed,  with  red 

and  capped  with  gray.    In  ^ ... 

some  needle  rocks — sharp-pointed — one  small  one 
especially  prominent.  Still  nearer  the  station  is 
a  shelving  rock  on  a  projecting  peak.  Opposite 
the  water  tank  are  rocks  worn  in  curious  shape. 
Further  on,  about  half  a  mile,  is  a  cave  with 
rocks  and  scattering  cedars  above  it.  Next 
comes  what  is  termed  "  Swallows'  Nest,"  be- 
cause of  the  numerous  holes  near  the  top, 
chiseled  out  by  the  action  of  both  water  and 
wind,  and  in  summer  sheltering  a  large  number 
of  swallows.     Tdward  it  in  summer  months, 

"  The  Swallows  Homeward  fly." 

Then  comes  a  honey-combed  peak  with  a 
shelving  gray  rock  under  it,  after  which  we  pass 
through,  what  the  railroad  boys  call  "  gravel "  or 
"  wet  cut  " — the  sides  being  gravel,  and  springs 
breaking  out  in  the  bottom  by  the  track.  Then 
Phillip's  Canon  juts  in  from  the  right  witli 
yards  for  cattle  at  its  mouth.  See  the  curious 
formations  along  the  side  of  this  canon  as  vou 
pass  it.  About  four  miles  from  the  last  station, 
are  other  castle  rocks  similar  in  appearance  to 
those  already  passed,  and  rocks  witn  caps  and 
slencer  little  spires  like  needles.  Then  comes  a 
singular  perpendicular  column  jutting  out  in  front 
of  the  ledge,  with  outstretched  wings  as  if  it 
would  lift  itself  up  and  fly,  but  for  its  weight. 

This  is  called  the  "  Winged  Rock."  If  there 
was  a  projection  in  front  to  resemble  a 
neck  and  head,  the  rock  would  appear  very 
much  like  an  eagle  or  some  other  large  bird, 
with  pinions  extended  just  ready  to  fly.  A  little 
below  this,  are  the  "  Kettle  Rocks  "  huge  gray- 
looking  boulders,  nearly  to  the  top  of  the  ledge, 
looking  like  immense  caldron  kettles.  Behind 
them  are  some  sharp-pointed  projections  like 
spires.  These  rocks  are  capped  with  red,  but 
gray  underneath.  Then  comes  "  Hood  Rock " 
a  single  angular  rock  about  half  way  to  the  top 
of  the  ledge,  worn  out  in  the  center,  and  resem- 
bling the  three-cornered  hoods  on  modern  ulster 
overcoats.  About  a  mile  before  reaching  tho 
next  station,  the  rocks  are  yjllow  in  appearance 
and  rounding  a  point  you  will  notice  sandstone 
layers  with  a  dip  of  more  than  45  degrees,  show- 
ing a  mighty  upheaval  at  some  period  in  the  re- 
mote past. 


TME  ^stCiFW  TOmSlSr. 


115 


Hatiifing  Rock, — a  little  over  seven  miles 
from  Castle  Rock,  and  08:{.7  miles  from  Omahu ; 
elevation,  5,974  feet.  The  descent  has  been 
very  rapid  since  we  struck  this  canon.  This 
station  is  wrongly  named.  All  books  and  guides 
which  represent  the  rocks  of  Echo  Canon  over- 
hantjiing  tne  railroad,  are  erroneous.  Nothing  in 
the  shape  of  a  han}{ing  rock  can  be  seen, 
but  as  you  pass  the  station,  you  will  notice  how 
the  elements  have  worn  out  a  hollow  or  cavity 
in  one  place,  which  is  bridged  by  a  slim  gray 
rock,  nearly  horizontal  in  position,  forminjj^  a 
natural  or  hanging  bridge  across  the  cavity, 
about  50  feet  in  depth.  It  can  be  seen  as  you 
pass  around  a  curve  just  after  leaving  the  sta- 
tion. Going  a  little  larther,  you  notice  what  is 
called  "  Jack-in-the-Pulpit-Ilock,"  at  the  corner 
of  a  projecting  ledge,  and  near  the  top  there- 
of. A  round  gray  column,  flat  on  the  surface, 
stands  in  front ;  this  is  the  pulpit,  while 
in  close  proximity  rises  the  veritable  "Jack" 
himself,  as  if  ex[X)unding  the  law  and  gospel  to 
his  scattering  auditors      Then  comes  the 

North  Fork  of  Echo  fJanon, — down 
which  more  water  annually  flows,  than  in  the 
main  canon.  Now  bending  around  a  curve,  if 
you  look  forward,  it  seems  as  though  the  train 
was  about  to  throw  us  directly  against  a  high 
precipice  in  front,  and  that  there  was  no  way  of 
escape;  but  we  keep  onward  and  finally  pass 
safely  on  another  side.  We  now  approach  what 
are  called  "  the  narrows."  The  rocky  sides 
of  the  canon  seem  to  draw  together.  Notice 
the  frame  of  an  old  ricketv  saw-mill  on  the 
left,  and  a  short  distance  below,  still  on  the 
left,  see  a  huge,  conical-shaped  rock  rising 
close  to  the  track.  We  are  particular  in  mpu- 
tioning  these,  because  they  are  landmarks, 
and  will  enable  the  traveler  to  know  when 
he  is  near  the  ledge  on  the  right  of  the 
track,  upon  which  the  Mormons  piled  up 
stones  to  roll  down  on  Gen.  Albert  Sidney  John- 
son's army,  when  it  should  pass  here,  in  1857. 
The  canon  virtually  becomes  a  gorge  here,  and 
tha  wagon  road  runs  close  to  the  base  of  the  high 
bi  fis,  (it  could  not  be  made  in  any  other  place) 
--which  the  Mormons  fortifted  alter  a  fashion. 
Now  you  pass  these  forts ;  high  up  on  the  top, 
on  the  outer  edge  or  rim  you  will  still  see  small 
piles  of  stones  which  they  gathered  there  for  of- 
fensive operations,  when  the  trains  and  soldiers 
of  the  army  went  by.  They  look  small — they 
are  so  far  off,  and  you  pass  them  so  quickly — 
not  larger  than  your  fist — but  nevertheless  they 
are  there.  They  are  best  seen  as  they  recede 
from  view. 

At  the  time  we  sjieak  of,  (1857)  there  was 
trouble  between  the  Mormons  and  the  United 
States  authorities,  which  led  to  the  sending  of 
an  army  to  Salt  Lake  City.  It  approached  as 
far  a8_  Fort  Bridger,  where  —  the  season  being 
late — it  went  into  winter  quarters.     Jt  was  ex- 


pected to  pass  through  this  canon,  however,  that 
same  fall,  and  hence  the  preparations  which  the 
Moiinons  made  to  receive  it.  Their  army — the 
Nauvoo  Legion,  redioiow,  under  the  ooumiand  of 
Gen.  Daniel  H.  Wells,  had  its  camp  near  these 
i-ocks,  in  a  little  widening  of  the  valley  below, 
iust  beyond  where  you  pass  a  "  pocket "  of 
boulders,  or  detached  parts  of  the  ledges  above, 
which  have  sometime,  in  the  dim  past,  rolled 
into  the  valley.  The  rocky  foit  being  passed, 
with  the  pocket  of  boulders  and  the  site  of  the 
old  camp,  the  traveler  next  appix)ache8  "  Steam- 
boat Rock,"  a  huge  red  projection  like  the  prow 
of  a  big  propeller.  A  little  cedar,  like  a  fli^  of 
perpetual  green,  shows  its  head  on  the  tow, 
while  farther  back,  the  beginning  of  the  hurri- 
cane deck  is  visible.  It  slopes  off  to  the  rear, 
and  becomes  enveloped  in  the  rocky  mass 
around  it.  By  some,  tnis  is  called  "  The  Great 
Eastern,"  and  the  one  just  below  it,  if  anything, 
a  more  perfect  representation  of  a  steamer,  is 


SEMTIMEL  ROOK,  ECHO  OAKON. 

called  "The  Great  Republic."  They  are  really 
curious  formations,  and  wonderful  to  those  who 
look  upon  them  for  the  first  time.  "  Monument 
Rock"  comes  next.  It  is  within  a  cove  and 
seems  withdrawn  from  the  front,  as  though  shun- 
ning the  gaze  of  the  passing  world,  yet  in  a  posi- 
tion to  observe  every  thing  that  goes  by.  If  the 
train  would  only  stop  and  give  you  more  time — 
but  this  cannot  be  done,  and  your  only  recourse 


'A: 

H'V'f 

m 


l^;; 


'J 


I 


m 


i::. 


!■■!(. 

i   ■ 

'^^HK'<"  / 

I  1 

1    T 

:*? 

iHH^wi 

':f. 

Ill 


li 


!. 


i"l 


m 


\wm-s 


BOCK  SCENES  NEAR  ECHO  CITY. 
1.— Witchei  Rocks.    2.-B»ttleinent  Rocks.    a.-Ejiypllan  Tombs.    4.— Wlt.he*  Bottles.    S.-Keeitle  Rocks,  near  Wahsatcb. 


TMM  PsiciFtc  roimtsr. 


117 


\<^  to  nauHe  at  Eclio  and  let  it  pasn,  while  you 
viiit  tor  tim  oiia  followirg.  This  will  givo  yon 
Mn\iU  op[K>rtuuit)r  to  hhu  the  natural  wona«rH 
coiii^regatHd  ill  thin  vioinity.  We  have  almost 
riMuh'id  thu  mouth  of  Echo  Creek,  and  the 
\V.)l>nr  River  com;)s  iti  from  the  left,  opposite 
"  Hronieff'i  Cathedral"  in  front  of  which  stands 
''Pulpit  Rock,"  on  the  most  extended  point  as 
you  turn  tha  elbow  in  the  road.  This  "  Cathe- 
(liul "  is  nam  id  iu  honor  of  J.  E.  Uroniley,  Es(j., 
wKo  has  lived  at 


Kjho  since  1858, 
and  who  cams 
bora  as  a  divi- 
Hi^n  s  u  p  e  r  i  n- 
ttndtnt  of  Bm 
11  ol  1  ad  ay'd 
U.rei-land  Stasia 
and  Express 
Line.  It  extends 
some  distaiua 
—a  mile  or  more 
—  around  the 
l>Mid  in  the 
in  luntain,  and 
ii  u  s  numerous 
towers  and 
Hpires,  turrots 
and  domes,  oni 
either  sida.^ 
'Pulpit  Rock" 
is  so  called  from 
its  resemblance 
to  an  old-fash- 
ioned pulpit, 
and  rises  in 
plain  view  as 
you  go  round 
th)  curve  into 
Wabar  Valley., 
(t  is  a  tradition 
atn^ng  a  good 
ini:iy  peop'R, 
that  the  "Proph- 
et of  tha  Lord, ' 
who  now  pre- 
sides over  tha 
church  of  "The 
Latter  Day 
Saints,"  in  Salt 
Lake  City,  once 
preached' to  tha 

assambled  muKitude  rom  this  exalted  emi- 
nence ;  but,  while  w«  dislike  to  spoil  a  story 
that  lends  such  a  charm  to  the  plfice,  and 
clothes  it  with  historic  interest,  nevertheless, 
such  is  not  the  fact.  The  oldest  and  moat 
faithful    Mormons    we    could    find    in    Echo, 


kt.ow  how  high  the  ledges  are,  which  have  been 
BO  rapidly  nasscd.  We  are  informal  that  Mr. 
S.  H.  Heed,  one  of  the  civil  eiiginei'is  who 
constructed  this  part  of  the  railroad,  stated  that 
the  rtverngo  height  of  all  the  rocks  of  Eclio  canon, 
is  from  OlXf  to  8iK)  feet  alM>vn  the  rullMnul. 

As  you  approach  thu  t-lbow  referred  to,  there 
is  an  opening  through  the  inouiitains  .m  the  Idt, 
and  in  close  proximity  to  "I'ulpit  Kotk,"  tlie 
waters  of  Echo  Creek  unite  with  those  of  Wrber 

River,    which 
here 


come  in 
through  thia 
opening.  If  not 
tne  southern- 
most point  on 
the  line  of  the 
road,  it  is  next 
to  it.  You  have 
been  traveling 
in  a  south-west- 
erly direction 
since  leaving 
Evanston ;  you 
now  round  the 
elboT,  turn 
toward  the 
north-west,  and 
arrive  at 

Echo,  —  a 
■beautiful  spot — 
a  valley  nestled 
between  the 
hills,  with  evi- 
dences of  ihrift 
oij  every  hand. 
This  station  is 
nearly  nine  and 
a  half  miles 
from  Hanging 
Rock,  003  miles 
from  Omaha, 
and  6,815  feet 
above  the  level 
of  the  sea.  The 
town  and  the 
canon  are  right- 
ly named,  for 
the  report  of  a 
gun  or  pistol 
discharged     !  n 

PULPIT  ROCK,  BOHO  0AXOII-.-LO0KINO  WEBTWAAD.  ^},Jg    gailbn    WiU 

bound  from  side  to  aide,  in  continuous  echoes, 
until  it  finally  dies  away.  "  BroniUy's  Cathe- 
dral "  rears  its  red-stained  columns  in  rear  of 
and  overshadowing  the  town,  while  opposite 
is  a  lofty  peak  of  the  Wahsatch  Range.    Tq 


we  could  iind  in 
know  nothing  of  any  such  transaction.  Our 
cut  is  a  faithfsi.l  representation  of  this  re- 
markable rock.  It  is  estimated  to  be  about  sixty 
feet  high — above  the  track.    You  will  desire  to 


the  right  the  valley  opens  out  for  a  short  disr 
tance  like  an  amphithetitre,  near  the  lower  ex- 
tremity of  which,  "The  Witches,'*  a  grpup  of 
rocks,  lift  their  weird  s^nd  grptesque  forms. 
They  are  ^b^iit  half  way  to  the  summit  of  thei 


m 


p  ■ 

Ml' 

li.'iv 
i'l'l. 


Roehi,  near  WahMtcb. 


118 


TMM  ^mCIWiC  TOmtiST. 


1  f  ■ 


ledge  behind  them.  Weber  Valley,  from  its 
source  to  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  is  pretty  thickly 
settled  with  Mormons,  though  quite  a  number  of 
Gentiles  have  obtained  a  foothold  in  the  mines 
and  along  the  line  of  the  railroad. 

U^per  Weber  VaUey. — From  this  station 
there  is  a  broad  gange  railroad  up  the  Weber 
YaUey  to  Park  City,  27  miles  in  length. 
The  town  has  two  or  three  stores,  hotels, 
saloons,  etc.,  and  a  school-house  is  U)  be 
built  this  year.  Accommodations  for  fish- 
ing parties,  with  ^[aides,  can  here  be  obtained. 
The  Echo  and 
Weber  Riveis, 
with  their  tribu> 
taries,  abound 
in  trout,  while 
there  is  plenty 
of  game,  elk, 
deer,  bear,  etc., 
in  the  mountr 
ains.  Richard 
F.  Burton,  the 
African  explor- 
er, visited  this 
canon  and  Salt 
.  Lake  City  in 
1860,  and  wrote 
a  book  called 
"City  of  the 
Saints,"  which 
was  published 
by  the  Harpers, 
in  1862.  He 
speaks  of  the 
wonders  of  this 
valley  as  fol- 
lows: *'£cho 
Kanyon  has  bi^t 
one  fault ;  its 
sublimity  will 
make  all  simi- 
lar features 
look  tame." 

Weber  River 
rise3  in  the 
Wahsatch 
Mountains, 
aboutaO  miles  in 
a  south-eastern  direction  from  Echo,  flows  nearly 
due  west  to  Kammas  City,  when  it  turns  to  the 
north-west  and  passes  in  that  general  direction 
into  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  not  far  from  Ogden.  Go- 
ing up  this  river  from  Echo,  Grass  Creek  flows  in 
about  two  and  a  half  miles  froin  the  starting 
point  This  creek  atid  canon  runs  very  nearly 
parallel  to  Elcho  Creek.  Vei-y  important  and  ex- 
tensive coal  mines  have  been  discovered  fiom  two 
to  four  miles  up  this  canon.  It  is  not  as  wild  or 
rugged  in  its  formation  as  Echo  Canon.  The 
mines  are  soon  to  be  developed.  Twc  and  a  half 
miles  aboTC  the  mouth  of  Grass  Creek  is 


PULPIT  BOOK  ASD  TAU.CT. 


Coalville, — a  town  of  about  60G  people! 
a  few  elegant  buildings,  among  which  ail 
Mormon  bishop's  residence  and  a  fine  twc 
brick  court-house,  which  stands  on  an  ele\ 
near  the  town,  and  can  be  seen  for  a  lond 
tance.    The  town  is  situated  on  the  south  el 
Chalk  Creek  where  it  empties  into  AVeber 
This  creek  also  runs  nearly  parallel  with 
Canon,  and  rises  in  the  mountains  near  the  | 
of  the  Hilliai'd  Lumber  Company's  flume, 
called  Chalk  Creek  from  the  white  chalk^ 
pearance  of  the  bluffs  along  its  banks.    Coal 

is    a    Moi 
village,  an({ 
inhabitant 
nearly    all  | 
ployed   in 
ing    coal 
two  to    tl 
miles  abovt 
town  where 
railroad   ei 
This     road 
called  the  i 
mit     Cou 
Railroad,  ai 
owned  by  s 
of   the  wea 
Mormons 
Salt  Lake  C 
Four  miles 
ther     up 
AVeber,  and 
come  to  Ho 
ville,  anotl 
Mormon  villi 
It  is  a  faim 
settlement.  ' 
town    has 
gi-ist-mill.  F 
miles  still 
ther   is  loca 
the     town 
Wanship,  n; 
ed  after  an 
Ute  chief, 
has    about 
inhabitan 

,-LOOKIXO  SOCTBWAKD.  ^itJ,     a    hot 

stores,  grist-mill,  saw-mill,  etc.  It  is  If-^itet 
the  junction  of  Silver  Creek  with  the  Wel 
Still  going  up  the  Weber,  in  about  three  m 
there  is  another  Mormon  settlement  called  Th 
Mile.  It  has  a  "coop"  store,  bishop's  r 
dence,  and  a  tithing  oince. 

I*eoa. — Leanng  Three  Mile,  and  {lursu 
the  course  still  up  one  of  the  mos'  beautiful  ^ 
leys  in  the  country,  the  tourist  v  111  reach  Pe 
a  nice  little  farming  town,  in  five  miles  trai 
Evidences  of  thrift  and  of  the  successful  culti 
tion  of  the  soil,  are  visible  all  along  the  i 
ley,   but   it  is   a  wonderful  matter  to  east 


■:^^  i^  ■-.' 


£  i  ii! 


town  of  about  600  people,  with 
mldings,  among  which  are  the 
I  residence  auda  fine  two-story 
!,  which  stands  on  an  elevation 
id  can  be  seen  for  a  long  dis- 
1 18  situated  on  the  south  side  of 
re  It  empties  into  Weber  River 
;uii8  nearly  parallel  with  Kcho 
in  the  mountains  near  the  head 
imber  Company's  flume.    It  is 
ek  from  the  white  chalky  ap- 
utfs  along  its  banks.    Coalville 
is    a    Mormon 
village,  and  its 
inhabitants  are 
nearly   all    em- 
ployed ill  min- 
ing   coal    from 
two   to    three 
miles  above  the 
town  Mhere  tlie 
railroad  ends. 
This     road     is 
called  the  Sum- 
mit    County 
Railroad,  and  is 
owned  by  some 
of  the  wealthy 
Mormons    in 
Salt  Lake  City. 
Four  miles  far- 
ther   up     the 
Weber,  and  you 
come  to  Hoyts- 
ville,  another 
Mormon  village. 
It  is  a  fanning 
settlement.  The 
town    has    a 
giist-mill.  Four 
miles  still    far- 
ther  is  located 
the     town    of 
Wanship,  nam- 
ed after  an  old 
Ute  chief.       It 
has    about   400 
inhabitants, 
with  a  hotel, 
v-mill,  etc.      It  is  I'^^ated  at 
I'er  Creek  with  the  Weber. 
Veber,  in  about  three  miles 
mon  settlement  called  Three 
!(M>p"  store,  bishop's    resi- 
office. 

Three  Mile,  and  pursuing 
e  of  the  moR ,  beautiful  val- 
he  tourist  v  111  reach  Peoa, 
town,  in  five  miles  travel, 
id  of  the  successful  cultiva- 
visible  all  along  the  val- 
onderfal  matter  to  eastern 


FMM  ^^€lFi€  WOi^tST. 


119 


SCENE  AT  MOUTH  OF  ECHO  04NOM. 


men  who  know  nothing  of  the  characteris- 
tics of  the  soil,  and  see  nothing  but  sage 
brush  and  grease  wood  growing  thereon,  how 
crops  can  be  raised  amidst  such  sterility. 
Irrigation  h.as  done  it  all.  The  lalwr  to  accom- 
plish it  has  been  immense,  but  thirty-five  to 
loriv  bushels  of  spi'ing  wheat  to  the  acre  attest 
the  result.  The  soil  has  been  proved  to  be  very 
prolific. 


Kaninta4t  Citif. — Next  on   this  mountain 

{'ourney  comes  Kanimas  City,  eight  .niles 
>eyond  Peoa,  on  Kamnias  Prairie.  This  is 
an  elevated  plateau  about  four  miles  by  ten, 
and  afft  rds  some  veiy  fine  grazing  lands 
and  meadowh.  It  is  nearly  all  occupied  by 
stockmen.  Here  the  Weber  makes  a  grand  de- 
tfiur;  coming  from  th«  mountains  in  the  east,  it 
here  turns  {^Imost  a  square  pornec  toward  the 


120 


^MM  estciFic  rotmisr. 


\f 


I  ! 


north,  and  then  pursues  its  way  through  valleys 
and  gorges,  through  hills  and  mountains  to  a 
quiet  redt  in  the  waters  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake. 
Above  this  prairie  the  river  cuts  its  way  through 
a  wild  rooky  canon,  lashing  its  sides  with  foam 
as  though  angry  at  its  confinement,  out  into  the 
prairie  where  it  seems  to  gather  strength  for  its 
next  fearful  plunge  in  the  rocky  gorges  below. 
In  the  lofty  peaks  of  the  mountains,  east  of 
Kammas  Prairie,  in  the  frigid  realms  of  perpet- 
ual snow,  the  traveler  will  find  the  head  of  Weoer 
River,  and  the  route  to  it  will  give  him  some  of 
the  grandest  views  to  be  found  on  the  American 
Continent. 

J*a*'/e//*«  Park.  —  The  old  stage  read  to 
the  "  City  of  the  Saints,"  after  leaving  Eksho 
passed  up  the  Weber  to  VVanship,  at  the 
mouth  ot  Silver  Creek;  thence  nine  miles 
to  Parley's  Park,  a  lovely  place  in  summer, 
where  a  week  or  two  could  be  whiled  away 
in  the  beauty  of  the  valley  and  amidst  the 
grandeur  of  the  mountains.  There  are  three 
things  in  nature  which  make  a  man  feel  small — 
as  though  he  stood  in  the  presence  of  Divinity. 
These  are  the  ocean,  with  its  ceaseless  roar ;  the 
mighty  plains  in  their  solitude,  and  with  their 
sense  of  loneliness ;  and  the  mountains  in  their 
towering  greatness,  with  heads  almost  beyond 
the  ken  of  mortal  visicn,  and  crowned  with 
eternal  snows.  Parley's  I'ark  is  nearly  round  in 
shape,  about  four  miles  in  diameter,  and  almost 
surrounded  by  the  rocky  domes  of  the  Wahsatch 
Range.  The  old  stage  road  leaves  Park  City  to 
the  left,  and  reaches  the  summit  on  the  west  side 
of  the  divide ;  thence,  it  follows  down  Parley's 
Canon  to  Salt  Lake  City,  forty-eight  miles,  by 
this  route,  from  Echo.  The  mountain  streams 
along  this  road  abound  in  trout,  while  elk,  deer 
and  Dear,  will  reward  the  hunter's  toiL  There 
are  ranches  and  small  farms  by  the  way,  which 
will  afford  abundant  stopping  places  for  rest  and 
food ;  there  are  mines  of  marvelous  richness,  to 
rewardone's  curiosity,  if  nothing  else  will  do  it ; 
and,  in  fact,  there  is  probably  nothing  which  can 
bs  gained  along  the  line  of  the  Union  Pacific, 
which  will  afford  ar.  much  gratification,  at  so  lit. 
tie  expense,  of  either  money  or  time,  as  a  lei- 
8ur«*sy  jaunt  of  a  week  or-  two  up  the  river  and 
its  tributaries  from  Echo. 

CfutracterigficH  of  Echo   and    Weber 
Canons. — The  massive  rocks  which  form  Echo 
Canon,  are  of  red  sandstone,  which  by  the  steady 
process  of  original  erosion  and  subsenuent  weather, 
nave    worn   into   their  present  shape.      Their 
ahapas  are  exceedinjjly  curious,  and  their  aver- 
age height,  SaO  to  81)6  feet.     At  the  amphithe- 
atre, and  the   Steamboat  Rock,  the  height  is 
fully  800  feet  to  the  summit.     There  is  a  bold 
projectipn  in  the  wall  of  rock  near  the  Pulpit, 
called  Hanging  Rock ;  but  it  is  composed  of  a 
mass  of  coarse  conglomerate,  which   is  easily 
washed  away,  and  is   not  very  easily  noticed. 


Pulpit  Rock  overlooks  Echo  City  and  the  val- 
ley of  the  Weber,  through  which  flows  a  pure 
beautiful  mountain  stream.  In  one  of  our 
illustrations  is  shown  a  railroad  train  passing 
through  this  valley  and  descending  to  the  en- 
trance of  Weber  Canon  just  below.  This  is  the 
sketch  of  the  special  excursion  train  of  the  New 
York  and  Eastern  Editorial  Excursion  Party 
of  1875,  who,  at  this  part,  the  center  of  the  val- 
ley, midway  between  the  two  canons,  were  pro- 
fuse in  Iheir  exclamations  of  delight  at  the 
scene  of  beauty. 

A  curious  feature  of  Echo  Canon  is  that  its 
scenery  is  entirely  on  the  right  or  north  side, 
and  that  the  Weber  Canon  has,  also,  upon  the 


UOSVUMltT  BOCK.— XCBO  OAMOIT. 


same  side,  its  wildest  and  most  characteristic 
scenery.  The  entrance  and  departure  from 
each  canon  is  distinguished  with  great  abrupt- 
ness and  distinctness.  Travelers  who  can  enjoy 
the  fortunate  position  of  the  lowest  step  on  the 
platform  of  each  car,  can  witness  all  the  scenes 
of  Echo  and  Weber  Canons,  to  the  best  advan- 
tage. The  view  ia  particularly  fine, — as  when 
the  train  describes  the  sharp  turn,  under  and 
around  Pulpit  Rock,  the  view  from  the  last  plat- 
form inludes  tho  whole  length  of  the  train  on 
the  curve, — and  overhead  the  jutting  point  of 
the  rock,  and,  farther  above,  the  massive  Rock 
Mountain,  the  overlook  to  the  entire  valley.  Just 
as  the  train  rounds  at  Pulpit  Rock,  passengers 


iN'^ 


121 


lio  City  and  the  val- 
whicii  flows  a  pure 
n.  In  one  of  our 
lilroad  train  passing 
escending  to  the  en- 
t  below.  This  is  the 
lion  train  of  the  New 
lal  Excursion  Party 
ihe  center  of  the  val- 
no  canons,  were  pro- 
}  of  delight  at  the 

lo  Canon  is  that  its 
right  or  north  side, 
I  has,  also,  upon  the 


0  OAMOir. 


>ost  characteristic 

departure  from 

nth  great  abrupt^- 

ers  who  can  enjoy 

Jwest  step  on  the 

ess  all  the  scenes 

the  best  advan- 

fine, — as  when 

turn,  under  and 

I'om  the  last  plat- 

_of  the  train  on 

jutting  point  of 

le  massive  Rock 

tire  valley.    Just 

lock,  passengers 


THE  CLIFFS  OF  ECHO  CANON,  UlAH. 

BY  THOMAS  HORAN. 


1 1    !    I' 


If, 
■';  '  '■  ■ 

t 


i 


I 


I  i 


122 


FMM  PsiCme  FO^SiST. 


on  the  south  side  of  the  train,  will  have  a  pretty 
little  glimpse  of  the  upper  portion  of  Weber 
Kiver,  with  its  green  banks  and  tree  verdure — a 
charming  relief  to  the  bare,  dry  plains,  so  con- 
stant and  even  tiresome.  A  curious  feature  of 
this  little  Weber  Valley,  are  the  terraces.  Near 
Echo  City  la  a  low,  narrow  bottom,  near  the 
river ;  then  an  abrupt  ascent  of  30  feet ;  then  a 
level  plain  or  bottom  of  200  to  400  yards ;  then 
a  gentle  ascent  to  the  rock  bluffs. 

The  Weber  River  is  exceedingly  crooked  in 
its  course, — originally  occupying  the  entire  width 
of  the  little  space  in  the  canon — and  in  construct- 
ing the  railroad  at  various  points,  the  road-bed 
here  has  been  built  directly  into  the  river,  to 
make  room  for  the  track.  The  average  angle  of 
elevation  of  the  heights  of  W^eber  Canon  is  70 
to  80  degrees, — and  the  height  of  the  summits 
above  the  river  is  1,500  to  2,000  feet.  I  n  this 
canon  is  found  a  thick  bed  of  hard,  red 
sandstone,  of  great  value  for  building  stone, — 
which  can  be  wrought  into  fine  forms  for  culverts, 
fronts  of  buildings,  caps,  sills,  etc.  Emerging 
from  the  mouth  of  Weber  Canon — and  turning 
to  the  right,  every  vestige  of  rugged  canon 
scenery  vanishes,  and  the  scene  is  chan^d 
into  one  of  peace  and  quietness  of  valley  life. 
Here  the  Weber  River  has  a  strong,  powerful 
current — with  heavy  and  constant  fall  over  beds 
of  water-woi'n  stones,  and  fallen  rtJCks  of  im- 
mense size.  In  the  spring  and  summer  months, 
it  is  swollen  by  the  melting  of  snow  from  the 
mountains,  and  is  of  great  depth, — though  usually 
it  averages  but  four  to  six  feet  in  depth  and  its 
width,  at  the  mouth  of  the  canon,  is  usually 
120  feet. 

The  remainder  of  its  course  to  the  Great  Salt 
Lake,  is  through  a  larg^e  open  bottom  of  increas- 
ing breadth,  along  which  gather  little  villages, 
grain  fields,  me»lows,  brilliant  with  flowers  of 
which  the  Indian  Pink,  with  its  deep  scarlet 
clusters,  is  most  luxuriant.  The  hills  are  smooth 
in  outline,  and  as  we  approach  Ogden,  the  grand 
summit  of  the  Wahsatch  Mountains,  with  snowy 
peaks,  arise  behind,  in  front,  and  northward, 
around  us  bold  and  impressive.  This  is  the  range 
of  mountains  which  border  the  east  side  of  the 
Salt  Lake  Valley,  and  will  accompany  us,  as  we 
go  southward  to  Salt  Lake  City. 

Rocktt  of  Weber  Canon. — Returning  to 
the  road;  after  leaving  Echo  you  will  soon 
notice,  on  the  north  side  of  the  track,  two 
(Various  formations.  The  first  is  a  group  of 
reddish-colored  cones  of  different  sizes  and 
varying  some,  in  shape,  but  on  the  whole 
remarkably  uniform  in  their  appearance. 
These  are  known  as  Battlement  Rocks.  They 
are  about  one  mile,  perhaps  not  that,  be- 
low Echo.  Next  come  the  wierd  forms  of  "  The 
Witches" — looking  as  though  they  were  talking 
with  each  other.  These  are  gray,  and  al)out 
this  place  it  seems  that  the  formation  changes — 


the  red-colored  rocks  disappearing-— dark  gi-ay 
taking  their  place.  How  these  columns  wes: 
formed  will  ever  be  a  question  of  interest  to 
those  who  are  permitted  to  see  them.  One  of 
the  W' itches  especially  looks  as  though  she  was 
afflicted  with  the  "  Grecian  bend '"  of  modern 
fashion,  a  fact  which  does  not  at  all  com|K)i't 
with  the  dignity  or  character  of  a  witeh.  AN  orn 
in  fantastic  shapes  by  the  storms  of  ages,  and 
capped  with  gray,  they  stand  as  if  ''mocKing  the 
changes  and  the  chance  of  time."  Four 
miles  below  Echo,  we  lound  a  rocky  point, 
nearly  opposite  to  which  lies  the  little  Mormon 
Village  oi  Hennifei-ville,  on  the  left  side  of 
Weber  River,  with  its  bishop's  palace — the  largest 
brick  building  in  sight — and  school-house,  also  of 
brick,  nestled  under  the  mountains  which  lift 
up  rugged  peaks  in  the  background.  The  valley 
now  nan-ows  to  a  gorge,  and  we  approach  Weber 
Canon  proper.  It  has  high  bluns  on  the  left, 
with  a  rocky  castle  towering  up  on  the  right.  If 
Echo  Canon  was  a  wonderful  place  in  the  mind 
of  the  traveler,  wonders,  if  jwssible  more  rugged 
and  grand,  will  be  revealed  to  his  gaze  here. 
High  up  on  the  face  of  a  bluff  to  the  left,  as  you 
pass  through  the  gorge,  see  the  little  holes  or 
caves  worn  by  the  winds,  in  which  the  eagles  build 
their  nests.  *  This  bluff  is  called  "Lagle  neM 
Rock."  Every  year  the  proud  monarch  of  the 
air  finds  here  a  safe  habitation  in  which  to  raise 
bis  young.  It  is  beyond  the  reach  of  men,  and 
accessible  only  to  the  birds  which  fly  in  the  air. 
Passing  this  liiome  of  »•  Freedom's  Bird,"  before 
we  have  time  to  read  these  lines  hardly,  we  are 
at  the 

T/iousand  Mile  Tree,  Devil's  Slide,  dr., 
— on  the  left  side  of  the  track.  There  it  stands, 
spreading  its  arms  of  green,  from  one  of  which 
hangs  the  sign  which  marks  the  distance  traveled 
since  leaving  Omaha.  It  is  passed  in  a  moment, 
and  other  objects  of  interest  claim  your  attention. 
High  upon  rocks  to  the  right,  as  you  peer  ahead, 
see  how  the  winds  have  made  holes  in  project- 
ing points  through  which  the  light  and  sky  be- 
yond can  be  observed;  now  looking  back  see 
another  similar  formation  on  the  opposite  side- 
one  to  be  seen  looking  aliead,  the  other  looking 
back.  Now  we  come  to  Ulate  CvU — where  photo- 
graph rocks  without  number  are  found.  The 
rocks  are  so  called  from  the  pictures  of  ferns, 
branches  of  trees,  shrubs,  etc.,  which  are  seen 
traced  in  them.  They  remind  one  of  moss- 
agates,  only  they  are  a  great  deal  larger — mns;- 
nified  a  thousand  times,  and  are  not  in  cleur 
groundwork  like  the  agates.  Lont  Creek  Camm 
now  puts  in  from  the  right,  and  around  the 
curve  you  can  see  the  houses  of  the  little  Mormon 
Town,  Croyden.  It  is  only  seven  miles  from 
Echo.  This  canon  runs  parallel  with  Ech) 
Canon  for  quite  a  distance,  and  is  said  to  be 
rich  in  the  scenery  characteristic  of  this  region, 
with  a  narrow  v-alley  of  great  fertility  when  c.il- 


^ 


FMS  PACIFIC  FO^miST. 


128 


tivated.  But  right  here  on  the  left  side  of  the 
road,  pushing  out  from  the  side  of  the 
mountain,  is  the  " Deo'd's  Slide" — one  of  the 
mos:  Hiugular  formations  to  be  seen  on  the  en- 
tire route  from  ocean  to  ocean.  It  is  composed 
of  two  parallel  ledges  of  granite,  turned  upon 
their  ed^es,  serrated  and  jutting  out  in  places 
fifty  feet  from  the  mountain  side,  and  about  14 
feet  apart  It  is  a  rough  place  for  any  one; 
height  about  800  feet. 

tf'eber  Quarfi/, — 1,001.5  miles  from  Omaha, 
und  6,250  feet  above  the  sea.  It  is  a  side  track 
where  fine  reddish  sandstone  is  obtained  for 
building  purposes,  and  for  the  use  of  the  road. 
The  sandstone  is  variegated,  and  is  both  beauti- 
ful and  durable  when  cut,  or  polished.  The 
gorge  still  continues,  and  devils'  slides  on  a 
smulltjr  scal^ 
than  the  one 
noticr>d,  are 
V i 8 i 1 1 e  on 
both  pides  of 
the  road.  A 
httle  below 
this  titation. 
Dry  Creek 
Canon  v>me» 
in  on.  the 
right.  The 
road'  ^ow 
passes  round 
short  curves 
amidst  the 
wildest  tcen- 
ery,  when  H  is 
B  u  d  d  e  n  ly 
blocked  to  all 
human  Ap- 
pearance; yet 
tunnel  No.  3 
gives  ua  liber- 
ty. Crossi.:ig 
a  bridge  ol>- 
serve  the  ter- 
raced mountain  on  the  right,  and  by  the  time 
it  is  well  in  view,  we  enter  and  pa.w  t^irough 
tunnel  No.  4,  after  which  comes  Round  Vallft/, 
where  a  huge  basin  in  the  mountains  is  formed, 
and  where  man  again  obtains  a  foothold.  On 
the  right  of  the  mountain,  as  you  ent6r  thia  val- 
ley, there  is  a  group  of  balanced  i-ocks,  that  seem 
ready  to  topple  over  into  the  valley  below.  Still 
rounding  auotiier  point  farther  down,  and  we 
arrive  at 

IFlefter, — 1,008.5  miles  from  Omaha,  an  ele- 
vation of  5,1.30  feet.  It  is  a  telegraph  station  in 
a  tlnifty  looking  Mormon  village.  The  valley 
here  widens  out — the  narrows  are  passed — and 
scenes  of  surpassing  beauty,  especially  in  the 
summer,  enchant  the  eye.  To  the  left  the 
mo\nitains  gradually  recede,  and  East  i^anon 
Creek,  which  takes  its  rise  in  Parley's  Park,  be- 


THOUHAND  MILK  TBEE.— WEBER  CANON. 


foie  mentioned,  cutting  its  way  through  the 
rocky  hills,  comes  into  the  valley  of  the  Weber. 
This  station  is  the  nearest  iK)int  on  the  Union 
Pacific  lioad  to  Salt  Lake  City.  The  town  and 
cultivated  farms  in  the  valley  seem  like  an  oasis 
in  the  midst  of  a  desert.  Here,  for  the  first  time 
on  the  road,  the  traveler  will  see  the  magic  sign, 
"  Z.  C.  M.  I.,"  which,  literally  translated,  means 
"  Zion's  Co-operative  Mercantile  Institution," 
-where  al!  the  faithful  are  expected  to  purchase 
their  dry  goods,  groceries,  notions,  etc.  The 
Mormon  name  for  this  station  is  Morgan  City. 
As  you  leave  this  station,  the  same  query 
broached  before,  rises  in  the  mind  of  the  trav- 
eler— how  are  we  to  get  out  ?  We  seem  entirely 
surrounded  by  hills  and  mountains,  and,  while 
there  is  a  depression  visible  off  to  the  right,  it 

does  not  seem 
low  enough 
for  a  rai'.road 
to  pass  over. 
But  we  follow 
the  river 
down,  and 
notice  the  re- 
sult. Bend- 
ing first  to 
the  right,  then 
to  the  left, 
and  again  to 
the  right 
round  a  curve 
like  a  n  el- 
bow, and  near- 
ly as  short, 
we  reach 

PetevMOH, 
-1,010.4  miles 
fiom  Omaha; 
elevation, 
4,903  feet— 
another  tele- 
graph station, 
near  which 
a  wagon  bridge  crosses  the  river  on  the  left. 
It  is  convenient  to  a  Mormon  village  called 
EnteiT)rise,  near  by,  and  within  a  few  miles 
of  another,  called  Mountain  Green.  Just  be- 
low Peterson,  Cottonwool/  Creek  puts  in  from 
the  right,  while  immediately  in  front.  Devil's 
Gate  Mountain  rears  its  snowy  crest  You  now 
begin  to  see  where  we  are  to  get  out  of  the 
basin.  A  huge  gap  in  the  mountains  opens  be- 
fore you.  It  is  the  DevWn  Gap  w  ith  the  DevWa 
Gate  and  several  other  odd  characteristics  about 
it.  It  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable  places  on 
the  line  of  the  road.  The  waters  of  Weber 
River,  as  if  enraged  at  their  attempted  restraint 
rush  wildly  along,  now  on  one  side  of  the  road, 
and  now  on  the  other,  and  now  headed  off  com- 
pletely by  a  projecting  ledge  before  them,  turn 
madly  to  the  right  determined  with  irresistible 


ri 


t! 


'^'H 


Lli 


ii 


124 


rmm  i^dciFW  fo^sisf. 


Rtrength  to  force  their  way  through  the  mount- 
ain ;  foiled  in  this,  they  turn  abruptly  to  the 
left,  still  rushing  tnadlv  on,  and  at  last  find 
their  way  out  to  the  plain  beyond.  If  Echo 
was  grand,  and  the  narrows  grander — this  Dev- 
il's Gate  pass  is  surely  grandest  t^i  ail.  Just 
before  you  enter  the  deep  cut,  you  will  notice 
the  old  wagon  road  winding  along  the  bed  of 
the  stream,  cut  out  of  the  mountain's  side 
in  some  places,  and,  in  others,  walled  up 
from  the  river.  In  the  midst  of  all  this  majes- 
tic grandeur,  the  train  passes,  but  seldom  stops 
at  a  station  appropriately  named 
DevWs  Gate, 
—1,020.4  miles 
from  Omaha, 
and  4,870  feet 
above  the  sea, 
—  and  so  we 
pass  rapidly  on. 
The  gap  begins 
to  open  in  the 
west,  and  we 
soon  emerge 
fi'om  one  of  the 
l^randest  scenes 
in  nature,  into 
the  lovely  val- 
ley below,  fe- 
claimed  by  the 
hands  of  men 
from  the  barren 
waste  of  a  des- 
ert, and  made 
to  bud  and 
blossom  as  the 
rose.  We  have 
nov/  passed  the 
Wahsatch 
Range  of  mount- 
ains, though 
their  towering 
peaks  are  on  the 
right,  and  re- 
cede from  view 
on  the  left,  as 
we  leave  their 
base     and    get  devil's  slide. 

out  into  the  plain.  We  are  new  in  the  Great  Salt 
Ijake  Basin,  or  Va'.ley;  and,  though  the  lake  itself 
is  not  in  sight,  the  mountains  on  its  islands  are. 
These  mountains,  back  of  Ogden,  are  alm.ist 
always  crowned  with  snow,  and  frequently  have 
their  summits  enveloped  in  clouds.  They  are 
storm-breeders — every  one,  an^  the  old  Storm 
King  sometimes  holds  high  carnival  among  them, 
when 

"  From  penk  to  peak,  the  rattling  crags  among, 
Leaps  the  live  thunUer." 

The  winds  and  storms  of  winter  occasionally 
fill  the  craggy  gap  through  which  we  have  passed 
with  snow,  to  such  an  extent  that  it  slides  like 


an  avalanche  down  over  the  track,  and  in  the 
river  below,  where  the  rushing  waters  give  it  a 
cordial  greeting,  and  where  it  soon  melts  in  their 
embrace. 

Uintah, — 1,025.3  miles  from  Omaha ;  eleva- 
tion, 4,560  feet.  This  was  formerly  the  stage 
station  for  Salt  Lake  City,  but  the  completion  of 
the  Utah  Central  Railroad  from  Ogden,  took 
away  its  glory.  While  it  was  the  stage  terminus 
it  was  a  lively  pla6e,  though  it  never  pofsessed 
indications  ot  being  a  town  of  any  great  size. 
Approaching  the  town,  the  valley  opens  out  like 
a  panorama,  and  neat  little  bouses  with  farms 

and  gardens  at- 
tached, greet  the 
eyes  of  the  trav- 
eler in  a  won- 
derful change 
from  the  scenes 
through  which 
he  has  just 
passed.  Look- 
ing off  to  the 
left  you  will  no- 
tice the  first 
bench  of  land 
across  the  river, 
with  a  higher 
bench  or  terrace 
in  the  rear. 
Upon  this  first 
bench,  the  Mor- 
risite  massacre 
took  place  in 
1862,  an  account 
of  which  we 
shall  give  in  an- 
other place. 
Leaving  Uintah, 
the  road  pursues 
its  way  in  a 
general  norther- 
ly direction 
along  the  ba.se  of 
the  mountains, 
till  it  arrives  at 
Ogden, — the 
— WKBER  cANo.N.  western     termi- 

nus of  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad,  1,033.8  miles 
from  Omaha,  and  4,340  feet  above  thg  level  of 
the  sea.  By  agreement  between  the  two  roads, 
it  is  also  the  eastern  terminus  of  the  Central 
Pacific  Railroad.  The  place  is  one  of  con- 
siderable importance,  being  the  second  city  in 
size  and  population  in  the  Territory  of  Utah. 
It  is  regularly  laid  out,  is  the  county-seat  of 
Weber  Comity,  has  a  court-house  of  brick, 
which,  with  grounds,  cost  about  ^0,000,  two 
or  three  churches  and  a  Mormon  tabernacle. 
The  town  may  properly  be  divided  into  two 
parts  —  upper  and  lower  Ogden.  The  upper 
part    is    pleasantly   situated    on    an    elevated 


""^^ 


'^^. 


->!? 


track,  and  in  the 
g  waters  give  it  a 
soon  melts  in  their 

•oni  Omaha;  eleva- 
formerly  the  stage 
;t  the  completion  of 
from   Ogden,  took 
i  the  stage  terminus 
it  never  pofsessed 
of  any  great  size, 
alley  opens  out  like 
bouses  with  farms 
and  gardens  at- 
tached, greet  the 
^    eyes  of  the  trav- 
eler in  a  won- 
derful     change 
from  the  scenes 
through    which 
he    has    just 
passed.      Look- 
ing   off  to    the 
left  you  will  no- 
tice the  first 
bench    of    land 
across  the  river, 
with    a    higher 
bench  or  terrace 
in     the    rear. 
Upon   this  first 
bench,  the  Mor- 
risite    massacre 
took     place    in 
1862,  an  account 
of   which   we 
shall  give  in  an- 
other   place. 
Leaving  Uintah, 
the  road  pursues 
its  way  in  a 

feneral  norther- 
y  direction 
along  the  base  of 
the  mountains, 
till  it  arrives  at 
Off  den, — the 
western  tern\i- 
road,  1,033.8  miles 
above  thg  level  of 
veen  the  two  roads, 
nus  of  tlie  Central 
is  one  of  con- 
the  second  city  in 
Territory  of  Utah, 
the  county-seat  of 
•t-honse  of  brick, 
ibout  ^0,000,  two 
ormon  tabernacle, 
divided  into  two 
gden.  The  upper 
on    an    elevated 


v>-  ^.•^.^>; 


Mt^v'»>-'btiLUiiui!4i. 


« 


t^m 


rl    ..  ,..;y' 


•^^'^  'i^rv 


np?? 


4c. 


i*» 


;V^/w.. 


'^^■r---- 


,^.  «^>3.^<%.i_ 


•.■¥  .      ».  £;/ C-n^-X-iiv 


l.-08den,  Utah. 


SCENES  IN  WEBER  CANON. 
Wahsateh  Mountatns  in  tbe  distance.    2.-Deyil's  Oate  and  High  Peaks  of  WabMtcb  Mountalna, 
3.— Height*  of  W«l)«r  Canon.    4.— Tunnel  No.  3,  Webar  Cuuon. 


^m 


1       I 


126 


TMM  ^siCIFiC  FQ^niST. 


I 


bench  adjoininf;  the  mountains.  This  bench 
breaks  rather  abruptly,  and  almost  forms  a  bluff, 
and  then  begins  low«ir  0{^den.  The  upper  part 
is  mostly  occupied  for  residences,  and  has  some 
beautiful  yards  with  trees  now  well  grown.  The 
lower  portion — that  which  is  principally  seen 
from  the  railroad,  is  mostly  occupied  by  business 
houses.  One  peculiarity  of  the  town*  in  these 
western  or  central  Territories,  is  the  rnuoing 
streams  of  water  on  each  side  of  nearly  evmy 
street,  which  are  fed  by  some  mountain  stream, 
and  from  which  water  is  taken  to  irrigate  the 
yards,  gardens  and  orchards  adjoining  the  dwell- 
ings. Ogden  now  has  fully  6,000  people,  and  has 
a  bright  future  before  it  It  is  not  only  the  ter- 
minus of  the  two  great  trans-continental  lines 
before  mentioned,  but  is  also  the  startiiig-iwiut 
of  the  Utah  Central  and  Utah  and  Northern 
Branch  of  the  Union  Pacific  Railway.  These 
three  companies  have  united  in  the  purchase 
of  groundo,  on  which  a  large  Union  depot 
will  soon  be  built,  nearly  east  of  the  present 
building,  and  nearer  the  business  portion 
of  the  city.  It  is  the  regular  supper  and 
breakfast  station  of  the  Union  Pacific  and 
Central  Pacific  Railroads — passengers  having 
one  hour  in  which  to  take  their  meals  and 
transfer  their  baggage.  The  Central  Paeific 
Boad  has  numerous  machine  and  repair 
shops  here.      In  addition  to  theif  freight  de- 

J>ots,  the  Union  Pacific  has  only  a  roundhouse 
or  the  shelter  of  engines — th.->ir  buildings  for 
the  sub-division  of  the  road  being  located  at 
Evanston. 

Ogden  is  the  last  town  on  the  Weber  River 
before  it  empties  into  the  Great  Salt  Lake.  This 
river  takes  its  name  from  an  o\u  mountaineer 
and  trapper,  who  was  well  known  in  these  parts 
during  tne  early  days  of  the  Mormon  settlement. 
The  town  is  named  for  Mr.  Ogden,  another  old 
mountaineer  who  lived  and  died  nearer  in  the  city. 
Ogden  is  destined  to  become  a  manufacturing 
town  of  no  small  importance.  Vast  quantities 
of  iron  ore  can  be  obtained  «dthin  five  miles  of 
the  city,  and  iron  works  o*i  a  large  scale  have 
been  commenced,  but  ow'ng  to  want  of  proper 
foresight,  the  company  ran  short  of  means  oeforo 
their  works  were  completed.  An  effort  is  now 
being  made  to  resuscitate  them,  and  with  addi- 
tional capital  carry  them  on  to  completion.  The 
freight  on  all  iron  brought  into  the  Territory  is 
80  large  in  amount,  that  an  iron  manufactory 
here,  with  coal  and  iron  ore  bearing  60  p6r  cent 
of  pure  iron  of  an  excellent  quality,  near  by,  will 
prove  a  paying  invesii;ment  and  materially  facil- 
itate the  development  of  the  Territory.  Discov- 
eries of  silver  have  also  been  made  on  the  mount- 
ains backs  of  the  city,  and  the  mines  aro  rap- 
idly improving  "with  development  These  dis- 
coveries have  Deen  made  up  in  Ogden  Canon, 
about  five  miles  from  the  city. 
Chi  the  mountain  directly  east  of  the  town,  ex- 


cellent slate  quarries  have  been  discovered  and 
worked  to  Honie  extent.  It  is  said  to  be  equal  to 
the  best  found  in  the  Eastern  States. 

Ogden  River  rises  in  the  Wahsatch  Range 
of  Mountains,  some  40  miles  east  of  the  city.  It 
has  three  forks — north,  middle  and  south — all  of 
which  unite  just  above  the  canon  and  fairly  cut 
their  way  through  one  of  the  wildest  and  most 
romantic  gorges  on  the  Continent. 

Ogdeii  Canon. — This  lovely  little  canon  con- 
tains views  quite  as  pretty  as  either  Weber  or 
Echo  Canous.  Visitors  should  stay  over  at  Og- 
den and  speml  a  day  in  a  drive  hither. 

A  fine  creek,  about  30  feet  wids^  and  three  to 
fivs  feet  deep,  has  cut  through  the  monntain  and 
its  ridges.  As  it  comes  out  of  the  mountain  on 
the  west  side,  it  ope  is  into  a  broad,  grassy  valley, 
thickly  settled  with  farmei-s,  and  joins  the 
VVeber  River  about  five  miles  distant.  I'he 
scenes,  as  the  traveler  passes  through  the  narrows 
of  the  canon,  are  wild  in  the  extreme.  The  rocks 
rise  from  500  to  2,000  feet  almost  pei-pendicularly, 
and  the  width  averages  less  than  100  feet  for  a 
long  distance."^  In  this  canon,  geologists  have 
found  evidence  sufficiently  satisfactory  to  indi- 
cate that  the  entire  Salt  Lake  Valley  was  once 
a  huge  fresh  water  lake,  whose  surface  rose  high 
up  on  the  sides  of  the  mountains,  even  covering 
the  highest  terrace. 

Five  miles  up  the  canon,  which  runs  eastward, 
there  is  a  beautiful  little  valley,  with  table-like 
terraces,  30  to  50  feet  above  the  bed  of  the  creek, 
wherein  a  little  Mormon  village  is  located.  The 
situation  is  a  lovely  Oiie — the  sides  of  the  hills 
which  enclose  the  vallev,  are  800  to  1,000  feet 
high,  smoothly  rounded  and  sloping,  covered 
with  coarse  bunch  grass  and  small  bushes. 

In  addition  to  the  railroad  hotel  before  spoken 
of — which,  by  the  way,  is  a  first-class  house  and 
popular  with  the  traveling  public — Ogden  has 
several  hotels,  prominent  among  which  are  the 
Utah  Hotel,  an  up-town  establishment  conven- 
ient for  commercial  men,  and  the  Beardsley 
House  wb'-'b  cat*"""  for  railroad  travel.  It  ia 
also  supplied  -with  electric  light  -works,  a 
newspaper,  the  Daily  PiUU  a  lively  little 
sheet,  radically  opposed  to  Mormonism. 

The  city  water-works  are  supplied  -with 
-water  taken  from  the  Ogden  River,  at  tlie 
month  of  Ogden  Canon.  The  road  through 
the  canon  is  a  dugway  along  the  stream, 
and  sometimes  built  up  from  it,  while  tlia 
wall  rocks  on  either  side  tower  up  thou* 
sands  of  feet  The  water  in  the  river 
goes  rushing  madly  on  over  huge  rocks 
and  boulders  lying  in  the  bed  of  the 
stream,  as  though  it  would  push  them  out 
of  the  way.  In  some  places  the  rooks  al- 
most hang  over  the  road,  and  as  yon 
round  some  point  they  seem  as  though 
they  would  push  you  into  the  stream.  In 
some  places  the  formation  and  dip  of  the  rooks 


i 


FBB  fisiCIFia  FomsiST. 


m 


been  discovered  and 
is  said  to  be  equal  to 
n  States. 

le  Wahsatch  Range 
i  east  of  the  city.  It 
ile  and  south — all  of 
canon  and  fairly  cut 
he  wildest  and  most 
tinent. 

)vely  little  canon  con- 
as  either  Weber  or 
luld  stay  over  at  Og- 
ive hither. 
Bt  wicK  And  three  to 
Q[h  the  mountain  and 
of  the  mountain  on 
t  broad,  grassy  valley, 
lers,  and  joins  the 
miles  distant.  I'he 
through  the  narrows 
extreme.  The  rocks 
nost  pei-pendicularly, 
than  lUO  feet  for  a 
non,  geologists  have 
satisfactory  to  indi- 
ake  Valley  was  once 
sse  surface  rose  high 
ntains,  even  covering 

ivhich  runs  eastward, 
alley,  with  table-like 
Ihe  bed  of  the  creek, 
lage  is  located.  The 
he  sides  of  ihe  hills 
■e  800  to  1,000  feet 
id   sloping,  covered 


is  very  peculiar.  Thoy  seem  to  be  set  up  on  end, 
in  tliiii  luyerx,  and  with  a  slight  dip,  while  the 
wnsii  01  ages  has  worn  out  a  channel  tor  the 
river.  About  two  miles  up  the  ciinon.  Warm 
.Spring  Canon  conies  in  on  the  right.  It  is  not 
niiiuh  of  a  canon,  but  high  up  on  the  mountain 
side,  near  its  source,  are  warm  springs  from 
which  it  takes  its  name.  About  half  a  mile  far- 
ther are  some  hot  sulphur  springs,  on  the  left 
side  of  the  river,  in  the  midst  of  a  little  grove  of 
trees.     This    is  a 


charming  resort 
for  the  tourist, 
and  he  will  never 
cease  admiring  the 


aggregate,  a  stream 


d  pnsh  them  out 


wild  and  rugged  in 
nature,a3exnibited 
in  this  canon.  The 
canon  is  about  six 
miles  long,  and 
the  stream  which 
runs  through  it  is 
filled  with  "the 
speckled  beau- 
ties "  which  are  so 
tempting  to  the 
fisherman  and  so 
satisfactory  to  the 
epicure.  As  you 
look  to  the  top  of 
the  mountain  you 
will  see  pine  trees 
that  appear  like 
little  shrubs. 
These  trees  are 
from  50  to  80  feet 
in  height,  and  are 
cut  and  brought 
down  to  the  val- 
leys for  their 
timber.  Accommo- 
dations for  pleas- 
ure parties  for 
visiting  this  won- 
derful canon,  and 
for  fishing  and 
hunting,  can  be 
obtained  in  Ogden, 
and  no  excursion 
party  from  ocean 
to  ocean  should 
fail  to  visit  it. 
Beyond  the  mountains,  before  the  river  gorges 
through,  there  is  a  fertile  valley  pretty  well 
settled,  and  the  road  through  the  canon  gives 
the  people  living  there  an  outlet  to  the  town. 
This  road  was  built  several  years  ago,  and  re- 
quired a  great  deal  of  time  and  labor,  and  fitly 
illustrates  the  persevering  industry  of  the  Mof- 
moji  p<>ople. 

Fruit-growing  is  very  common  in  the  vicin- 
ity of   Ogden,  and  a    large   quantity  of   the 


KAKKUWit  OK  IMiUklM  OAAOM. 


best  varieties  grown  in  the  Territory  are  pro. 
duced  in  this  region  of  country.  Utah  apples, 
peaches  and  pears  are  finer  in  size,  color  and 
flavor  than  any  grown  in  the  Eastern  or  Middle 
States. 

Hot  Springn.  —  Northward  from  Ogden, 
about  nine  mUes,  is  a  very  interesting  lo- 
cality, known  as  the  Hot  Springs.  Here  is 
a  group  of  warm  springs,  forming,  in  the 
three  feet  wide,  and  six 
to  twelve  inches 
deep;  the  sur« 
face,  for  a  space 
of  aOO  to  400  yards 
in  extent,  is  cov- 
ered with  a  de- 
posit of  oxide  of 
iron,  so  that  it 
resembles  a  tan- 
yard  in  color. 
The  temperature  is 
130".  They  flow 
from  beneath  a 
mountain  called 
Hot  Spring  Mount- 
ain, which  is  about 
five  miles  long  and 
three  wide.  The 
elevation  of  the 
lake  is  4,191  feet. 
The  water  of  the 
spring  is  clear  as 
crystal,  containing 
great  quantities  of 
iron,  and  the  sup- 
ply is  abundant. 
As  there  are  plenty 
of  cold  springs 
in  the  vicinity, 
there  is  nothing 
to  prevent  this 
from  being  a  noted 
place  of  resort 
for  invalids.  The 
medicinal  qual- 
ities of  this  water 
are  excellent  for 
rheumatism,  skin 
diseases,  dys- 
pepsia, and  the 
climate  is  unsur- 
passed. 

The  Territory  of  Utah. 

When  the  Mormons  first  located  in  Utah,  in 

1847,  it  was  territory  belonging  to  Mexico,  but 
by  the  treaty  of  Guadaloupe  Hidalgo,  in  March, 

1848,  it  was  passed  over  to  the  United  States 
with  New  Mexico  and  the  whole  of  upper  Cali- 
fornia. The  government  of  the  United  States 
was  not  very  prompt  in  extending  its  jurisdic- 
tion over  the  newly-acquired  Territory,  and  in 


i 

■  mi 


it'k-] 


us 


rms  ^siCiFic  TOVSiSF. 


\V 


ti.'i 


1 1.'  ■ 


I*' ; 
W 


rms  ^^ciFia  roMmisr. 


129 


the  absence  of  any  other  government  the  Mor- 
inuns  set  up  one  for  theinHelves,  which  was  called 
the  State  of  Deseret.  This  was  done  in  tlie 
spring  of  1849.  On  the  9th  of  September,  1850, 
Congress  passed  a  bill  which  ignored  the  State 
government  of  the  Mormons,  and  organised  the 
Territory  of  Utah,  and  on  the  28th  of  that  same 
mouth,  Millard  Fillmore,  President,  appointed 
Hii},'ham  Young,Governor  of  the  Territory  with  a 
{(ill  complement  of  executive  and  judicial  officers. 
Since  that  time  the  area  of  the  Territory  has  been 
diminished,  but  it  is  still  large  enough  for  all 
practical  purposes.  It  now  extends  from  the 
87th  to  the  42d  parallels  of  north  latitude,  and 
from  the  109th  to  the  114th  degree  of  longitude, 
embracing  over  84,000  scjuare  miles  or  over 
51,000,000  of  acres.  The  national  census  of 
1870  showed  a  population  of  about  90,000,  and 
a  fair  estimate  would  give  the  Tei-rilory  alwut 
125,000  people  at  the  present  time.  The  climate, 
as  a  general  thing,  is  salubrious  and  healthy,  and 
violent  extremes  of  either  heat  or  cold  are  seldom 
experienced.  The  area  of  land  susceptible  of 
cultivation  is  small  as  compared  to  that  included 
in  the  whole  Territory,  and  a  lar^e  quantity  of 
even  desert  land  is  now  unproductive  becaiise  of 
the  presence  of  alkali  and  mineral  substances. 
While  all  kinds  of  grain  can  be  grown  with  more 
or  less  success— depending  upon  local  causes — 
wheat  is  the  jB^reat  staple,  and  in  favorable  sea- 
sons and  localities  monstrous  crops  of  the  great 
cereal  have  been  produced. 

It  may  astonish  eastern  readern,  but  it  is  nev- 
ertheless a  fact,  that  whole  fields,  producing 
from  fifty  to  sixty  bushels  per  acre  of  as  fine 
wheat  as  was  ever  grown,  are  no  uncommon 
thing  in  Utah.  The  land,  of  course,  is  irrigated, 
and  there  is  no  great  danger  of  loss  by  rains  dur- 
ing the  harvest  season.  The  average  yield,  it  is 
true,  is  a  great  deal  less  than  this,  amounting  to 
about  twenty-five  bushels  per  acre.  On  account 
of  the  high  altitude  and  cool  nights,  corn  will 
not  do  as  well,  though  fair  crops  are  raised. 
Vegetables  of  all  kinds  grow  to  an  astonishing 
size,  and  are  superior  in  qualitv.  Corn  will,  as  a 
general  thing,  do  better  in  the  valleys  in  the 
southern  part  of  the  Territory,  where  cotton  is 
also  grown  to  a  limited  extent,  and  some  kinds 
of  tropical  fruits.  The  climate  and  soil  are 
especially  adapted  to  the  production  of  apples, 
pears,  |)eaches,  plums,  currants,  strawberries, 
raspberries,  blackberries,  etc.  It  must  constantly 
be  borne  in  mind,  that  successful  agricultural 
pursuits  can  only  be  carried  on  here  with  irriga- 
tion, and  that,  as  a  general  thing,  it  costs  no 
more  to  irrigate  land  here,  nor  as  much,  as  it 
costs  to  drain  and  clear  it  in  many  of  the  Eastern 
States.  The  market  for  most  of  the  products 
raised  in  this  Territory,  is  at  the  mining  camps 
and  settlements,  and  in  Nevada,  Idaho  and  Mon- 
tana. The  explorations  in  the  southern  half  of 
the  Territory,  nave  resiUted  in  the  discovery  of 


vast  deposits  of  iron,  coal,  cooper,  silver,  gold 
and  lead.  In  the  Strawberry  Valley,  coal  veins 
over  twenty  feet  thick,  of  excellent  quality,  have 
been  discovered.  In  San  Pete  Valley,  other 
magnificent  coal  deposits  have  been  found,  from 
which  coke  for  smelting  puriK)se8  has  been  made. 
East  of  the  VVahsatch  Range,  in  San  Pete 
County,  are  the  remains  of  the  Moquis  Village, 
of  which  much  has  been  written.  Iron  County, 
still  south,  is  so  named  from  the  vast  dejwsits  of 
this  material  found  within  its  limits;  and,  in 
the  spring  of  1876,  the  most  wonderful  discov- 
eries of  silver  were  made  near  St.  George,  in 
what  has  been  called  the  Bonanza  District 
There  is  horn  silver  around  a  piece  of  petrified 
wood  in  a  sandstone  formation.  A  part  of  this 
petrifaction  was  coal.  The  discovery  of  silver 
in  such  a  formation,  has  upset  many  of  the  geo- 
logical theories  heretofore  prevalent  in  the 
country.  Ore  from  surface  mines  to  the  value 
of  over  fifty  thousand  dollars,  lias  already  been 
taken  out 

Thero  are  two  main  ranges  of  motintaina  in 
Utah,  running  nearly  parallel  to  each  other. 
The  easternmost  range  is  the  Wahsatch,  and 
that  farther  west  the  Oquirrh.  Still  farther  to 
the  west  are  broken  ranges,  parallel  with 
those  above  named. 

Mining. — The  mountains  of  Utah  are  found 
to  contain  exceptionally  large  deposits  of  eil- 
ver,  lead,  copper,  iron  and  coal;  and  in  son.  3 
localities  gold,  antimony  and  cinnabar  are 
present  in  sufficient  quantities  to  pay  for  work- 
ing. Salt  is  shoveled  from  the  shores  of  Salt 
Lake  by  the  ton,  and  sulphur,  saltpeter,  gyp< 
sum,  plumbago,  soda,  rock  salt,  marble,  slate 
and  limestone  are  among  kindred  resources. 
Utah's  ores  are  generally  easily  produced,  often 
lying  in  largest  deposits  near  lines  of  her  splen- 
did  system  of  railways.  They  are  easily  w^orked 
as  a  rule,  and  dozens  of  mills  and  smelters 
are  in  successful  operation^  within  a  tew 
miles  of  the  most  noted  mines.  Bich  dis* 
coveries  are  constantly  reporte.1.  from  the 
more  remote  districts.  Some  of  these,  in 
the  southern  portion  of  the  territory,  con- 
HTst  of  immense  deposits  of  a  high  grade  of 
silver  ores. 

The  Ontario  mine,  which  has  filled  the  pub> 
lie  prints,  is  one  of  the  richest  mines  on  the 
continent,  having  paid  some  fifty  successive 
monthly  dividends   of  $75,000  each   in  the 

East  four  years,  or  a  total  of  nearly  $4,000,000. 
a  tact,  Utah  alone  has  all  the  resources  of  an 
empire;  and  if  it  were  only  imder  a  sa'e, 
stable  and  peaceful  poUtical  local  government 
she  would  become  one  of  the  richest  and 
brightest  stars  in  the  coronet  of  the  na- 
tion. It  were  well  if  certain  pages  in  hei' 
eventful  history  could  be  forever  obliter- 
ated. 

Utah  Central  Bailroad,— Ogdea  is  the 


"IP 


wmm  ^a€iFw  TQ^^isr. 


i8l 


-■i 

""*;""/'•  '^" 

fl 

,< 

V\/'(    .,U.{'« 


k'  ■  'ITii, 


?l 


northern  terminus  of  tliis  road.  It  is  tlie  pioneer 
line  of  L'taii  proper,  tliougii  the  Union  I'tu-ific 
and  Ceutriil  I'licitic  Hoivds  were  completed  first 
tliroiiglj  the  miignificent  Renerpsitv  of  tiie  peo])le 
of  tiie  United  btutes.  Early  in  Alay,  18(1!),  the 
ii'ou  rails  whicli  boimd  the  Continent  together 
were  joined  near  l'roni<>ntoi7,  some  50  miles 
westof  Offden.  One  week  after  this  was  done, 
work  on  the  Utali  Central  began.  Tiie  company 
was  organized  on  the  8tli  of  March  pievious, 
Brighiun  Young  being  president.  A  large 
quantity  of  material  for  building  railroads  was 
left  on  hand,  when  the  Union  I'aciflc  was 
finished  to  Promontory,  anu  this  was  purchased 
by  the  Utah  Central  Company.  Urigham 
Young  had  entered  into  a  contract  for  grading 
the  former  road,  from  the  liead  of  Echo  Canon 
to  Ogden,  and  successfully  accomplisiied  the 
work.  If  this  had  not  been  done,  that  road 
would  have  failed  in  its  race  across  the  Conti- 
nent, and  the  Central  Pacific  would  have  built 
the  greatest  part  of  the  trans-continental  line. 
His  contract  was  sublet  to  John  Sharp  and 
Joseph  A.  Young,  the  eldest  son  of  the  Mormon 
prophet.  With  an  energy  and  push  that  had 
scarcely  been  expected  from  the  disciples  of 
Mormonism,  this  work  was  crowded  with  all 
possible  speed,  and  they  obtained  that  experi- 
ence in  raibroad  building  then,  which  lias  been  cf 
great  advantage  to  the  people  of  Utah  since. 
In  less  than  eight  months  from  the  time 
ground  was  broken  for  this  new  lino  of 
road,  the  last  rail  was  laid,  end  on  the  10th 
day  of  January,  1870,  the  first  through 
trun  from  Ogden  arrived  in  Salt  Lake  City. 
Their  road  now  crosses  the  Central  Facinc 
in  Ogden,  at  nearly  right  angles,  and  their 
depot  and  freight  houses  are  north  of  the 
Paciflo  roads.  Arriving  at  Ogden  from  the 
east,  the  traveler,  looking  ahead  to  the  right, 
will  see  the  engine  and  train  of  cars  ready  to 
take  him  to  the  City  of  the  Saints.  Entering 
elegantly  furnished  cars  at  about  0  o'clock  p.m., 
and  turning  your  back  upon  Ogden  and  the 
lofty  mountain  peaks  behind  it,  you  will  soon 
be  oS.  In  less  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  the 
road  passes  over  the  Weber  Kiver  on  a  now  and 
el^fant  iron  bridge,  put  up  by  the  American 
Bridga  Company  of  Chicago.  It  is  a  suspension 
bridge,  150  feet  span,  each  end  resting  on  a 
solid  abutment  of  masonry.  This  bridge  is  so 
constructed  that  it  will  contract  by  cold  or  ex- 
pand by  heat  as  one  body,  one  end  being  placed 
on  rollers  to  allow  self  adjustment  by  the  action 
of  heat  or  cold.  The  bridge  crossed,  the  road 
passes  through  a  cut,  and  rises  uix)n  a  bench  or 
terrace  of  land  from  which,  off  to  the  rie[ht,  the 
traveler  obtains  tht?  first  view  of  the  Dead  Sea 
of  America — the  Great  Salt  Lake.  The  general 
direction  of  the  road  is  due  south,  and  you  pur- 
sue your  way  along  the  base  of  the  foot  hills 
and  luountaius,  which  form  the  first  Hue  looking 


east,  of  the  Walisat'-h  Range.  As  far  as 
Kaysville,  the  road  j>asse«  over  a  comparatively 
uiiHt'ttli'd  eountrv,  though  in  the  dim  distance  on 
tlit>  righ[,thti  fainiing  settlements  of  Hooper  may 
be  seen  near  the  mouth  of  Weber  lliver.  We 
soor.  arrive  at 

Jiai/MvUte,—\Q  miles  from  Ogden.  It  is  a 
telegraph  station  surrounded  by  a  farming  set- 
tlement, with  its  "co-op"  store,  blacksmitli-shop 
and  the  usual  buildings  of  a  small  country  town. 
I'l  fc.itering  and  leaving,  the  road  crosses  several 
little  creeks  that  fiow  down  from  the  mountains, 
the  waters  of  which  are  nearly  all  drank  up  by 
the  dry  earth  in  the  processes  of  irrigation. 
Passing  on,  the  traveler  will  notice  a  few  houses 
and  settlements,  toward  the  lake  and  mountains, 
sometimes  nearer  the  mountains;  arriving  at 

FariuluyioH, — the  next  station,  21 1-4  miles 
from  Ogden.  It  is  the  county-seat  of  Davis 
County,  and  has,  besides  a  com  t-house,  the  usual 
store  and  shops.  This  town  is  also  located  in 
the  midst  of  a  farming  region,  and  nearly  over- 
shadowed by  the  mountains  on  the  east.  Davis 
County  slopes  to  the  west  toward  the  lake,  has  a 
warm  rich  soil,  and  when  irrigated,  produces 
luxuriant  crops  of  vegetables,  melons,  grain,  etc., 
for  the  Salt  Lake  market.  Leaving  this  station 
the  road  draws  near  to  the  side  of  thi.^  great 
inland  sea,  to 

Centervilie, — 25  1-2  miles  from  Ogden, — a 
little  farming  town  with  its  store,  etc.  Between 
the  lake  on  one  side  and  the  mnuntains  on  tlie 
other,  and  the  thrifty  farms  with  orchards  and 
gardens  now  on  either  side  and  all  around  him, 
the  traveler  will  be  kept  pretty  busy. 

Wood's  CroHS — is  the  next  station,  27  34 
miles  from  Ogden.  It  is  about  midway  between 
the  mountains  and  the  lake,  and  is  located  in 
what  is  called  the  best  portion  of  Davis  County. 
It  is  a  telegraph  station  with  usual  side  tracks, 
etc.  The  countiy  gradually  slopes  into  the 
lake  toward  the  west  with  an  occasional  drift  of 
sand  near  the  shore,  covered  with  the  inevitable 
sage  brush  which  we  have  had  since  leaving  Lara- 
mie lliver.  The  cosy  farm  houses  and  the  evi- 
dences of  thrift  evenwhere  visible,  the  growing 
crops  and  ripening  fruits,  if  in  the  summer — all 
conspire  to  make  a  pleasant  landscape,  upon  which 
the  traveler  can  feast  his  greedy  gaze,  while  the 
shadow  of  the  mountains  grows  longer,  and  the 
twilight  deepens  into  night  a"  we  arrive  at 

Salt  Lake  Ciff/, — the  souihei-n  terminus  of- 
the  road,  36  1-2  miles  from  Ogden.  But  of  this 
city,  more  in  another  place. 

The  Utah  Central  has  been  a  paying  road 
from  the  start,  and  its  business,  as  the  years  pass 
by,  is  destined  to  make  it  better  still.  We  have 
not  all  the  data  at  hand  to  show  what  it  has  done, 
but  will  give  one  or  two  illustrations.  In  1873, 
its  tonnage  was  as  follows.  Freights  received, 
233,53;},450  lbs.  Freights  shipped,  55,387,754 
lbs.    In  1874,  there  was  a  slight  falling  off, 


h  i 


182 


FMB  ^;MClFtC  T&VMIST. 


r  ( 


•:l\^     \ 


though  it  was  not  as  large  as  expected  from  the 
uusiuess  done  In  1873,  because  of  general  depres- 
sion of  the  mining  interest  of  the  Territory.  In 
1880  its  business  'was  as  follows:  Freights  Te> 
ceived,  250,728,000  lbs.;  freights  shipped, 
48,134,000  lbs.  Its  gross  earnings  for  1880 
were  about  ;^;")00,000.  Its  operating  expenses 
were  about  !tl75,000.  This  last  sum  does 
not  of  course  include  dividends  on  its  stock 
of  $1,500,000,  nor  the  interest  on  its  bonds, 
amounting  to  $1,000,000.  The  passenger 
fiure,  first-class,  from  Ogden  tu  Salt  Lake 
is  92.  The  controlling  interest  in  this  road  is 
at  present  owned  by  stockholders  in  the  Union 
Pacific 

saTjT  lake  ctty, 

Vh  Dlscoverf/. — When  Brigham  Young, 
with  his  weary  band  of  )>koneer3  arrived  liere,  in 
1817,  it  was  a  dreary  waste,  nevertheless  a 
beautiful  site  so  far  as  location  is  concerned,  for 
a  city.  It  lies  on  a  bench  or  gra^'.i'al  slope  fiom 
the  Wahsatch  Mountains,  whi(  'i  tower  up  be- 
hind it  on  the  east,  to  the  River  Jordan,  which 
bounds  it  on  the  west.  It  is  r<  ;orded  that  when 
the  pioneers  came  within  a  lev;  days'  march  of 
the  place,  Orson  Pratt  and  .i  few  others  went 
ahead  of  the  party  *'  to  spy  out  the  land  "  and 
select  a  place  for  camp  tig,  etc.,  convenient 
tiO  wood  and  water.  On  the  22d  day  of  July, 
1817,  he  rode  over  this  valley  with  his  compan- 
ions, and  returning  to  the  main  body,  reported 
the  results  of  their  observations.  On  the  morn- 
ing of  July  24,  1817,  this  body  arrived  at  t!ie 
top  of  the  (lill,  overlooking  the  site  of  the  city, 
and  the  vallcv  beyond,  and  were  enchanted  with 
the  scene.  They  gave  vent  to  their  joy  in  ex- 
clamations of  thanksgiving  and  praise  to 
Almighty  God,  firmly  believing  they  had  fouji  1 
the  land  of  promise,  though  it  did  not  flow  with 
"  milk  and  honey,"  and  the  "  Zion  of  the  Mount- 
ains "  predicted  by  ancient  prophets.  The  Mor- 
mons are  great  on  literal  interpretation.  Figu- 
rative language  and  expressions  as  viewed  by 
them  are  realities.  Th-i  Bible  means  exactly 
what  it  says  with  them.  They  had  reasons, 
however,  for  being  enchanted.  From  the  canon 
through  which  they  entered  the  valley,  the  view 
ia  simply  magnificent.  The  Great  Salt  Lake 
glittered  like  a  jheet  of  silver  in  the  rays  of  the 
TOornir»g  sun ;  the  towering  peaks  of  the  mount- 
am  ran""',  crowned  with  clouds  and  snow, 
lifted  themselves  high  up  toward  the  sky,  and 
the  vp"ey,  though  a  desert,  was  to  them  as  lovely 
as  a  June  rose.  The  party  camped  on  a  small 
stream  south-west  of  the  Tabernacle,  and  pro- 
ceeded to  conseca-ate  the  entire  valley  to  the 
"  Kingdom  of  God."  On  the  28th  of  the  same 
month,  the  ground  for  the  temple  was  selected — 
a  tract  of  40  acres,  and  a  city  two  miles  square 
was    laid   off.    Streets   eight  rods  wide   were 


staked  out,  and  the  blocks  contained  ten  acres 
each.  Orson  Pratt  took  obseivations,  and  deter- 
mined the  latitude  an^I  longitude  of  the  city.  A 
large  numbp;  of  this  pioneer  party,  after  plaiitii.g 
their  crops  returned  for  their  families,  and  the 
last  expedition  for  that  year  arrived  on  the  lust 
day  of  October,  when  they  were  received  by  those 
that  remained  with  demonstrations  of  great  joy. 
Brigham  Young  went  back  with  the  returning 
party,  and  did  not  find  his  way  again  to  "  Zion  " 
until  the  next  year.  After  the  city  had  been 
founded,  emigration  from  foreign  countries, 
which  had  been  suspended,  w.is  re-organized 
and  came  pouring  into  the  Tenitory  in  masses. 
The  city  grew  and  the  people  spread  out  over 
the  I'erritoi-y,  settling  evei"y  available  spot  of 
land,  thus  contributing,  to  its  prospeiity. 

Beauty  of  Vonition. — The  main  portion  of 
the  city  lies  off  to  the  left,  as  it  is  approached  hy 
the  traveler,  and  presents  a  pleasing  appearance. 
Its  streets  are  wide,  with  streams  oi  water  coms- 
ing  their  way  ilong  the  sides,  while  rows  of 
beautiful  shade  trees  line  the  walks;  and  ;jar- 
dens,  end  yards  filled  with  fiuit  trees  of  vai  i(U8 
kinds,  everywhere  greet  the  eye.  Visitors 
who  are  interested  in  beautiful  garde.ip,  will 
find  the  most  interesting  on  Main  Street,  just 
west  of  the  Walker  House,  at  the  residences 
of  the  Walker  Brothers  ;  also  at  Mr.  .Icn- 
•Mngs,  on  Temple  Street,  near  the  dejiots. 
The  city  is  now  nearly  thirty  years  old.  mid 
in  that  time  the  tourist  can  see  for  liim- 
self  what  wonderful  changes  have  been 
made.  The  desert  truly  buds  and  blo.'^sdms 
as  the  rose.  The  city  is  admiiably  lociiled 
for  beauty,  and  at  once  charms  its  visitors. 
The  tourist  should  engage  a  carriage  and  diive 
up  and  down  the  shaded  streets,  and  see  the  wil- 
derness of  fruit  groves  and  gardens.  The  iiist 
practical  thing,  however,  with  the  tiaveler  i.**  to 
select  his  stopping  place,  during  liis  visit.  Of 
hotels  there  are  two  first-class  houses  that  are 
popular  resorts  with  the  traveling  public.  1  ho 
Walker  House  is  a  four  story  brick  structure  with 
132  rooms.  It  is  located  on  the  west  side  of 
Main  Street,  has  a  frontage  of  82  feet  and  a 
depth  of  120  feet.  It  has  lately  1  con  entirely 
renovated  and  handsomely  furnished ;  also  has 
had  the  addition  of  a  passenger  elevator.  It  is 
especially  noted  for  its  excellent  table,  which  is 
abundant  in  oame,  fruits,  fish,  etc.  The  Con- 
tinental Hotel  (formerly  Townsend  House)  is  on 
the  comer  of  "Wesi  Temple  and  South  Second 
streets,  and  has  a  fivie  shady  piazza  along  t'  o 
front.  Both  of  thcsi  i  hotels  faco  eastward,  both 
are  lighted  with  gas,  ind  both  are  supplied  with 
all  modem  conveniences  and  luxuries.  Ihero  are 
also  other  good  hotels  in  tho  city,  whicii  am  con- 
sidered second-class,  and  are  largely  patronized. 

Sights  fur  2>mr<Hf«.— Having  selocted  ft 
stopping  place,  the  next  thing  is  a  visit  to  the 
warm  sulphur  springs  for  a  bath.    The  streot 


i'MM  9;§€IFI^  WOmSiiST, 


133 


contained  ten  aties 
lerviitions,  and  deter- 
itudeof  the  city.  A 
•party,  alter  plant! i,g 
Bir  families,  and  the 
•  aiiived  on  the  hist 
'ere  i-eceived  by  those 
trations  of  great  joy. 

with  the  retnrniiig 
my  again  to  "  Zioii " 
I-  tlie  city  had  been 

foreign  countries, 
d,  was  re-organized 
Territory  in  masses. 
pie  spread  out  over 
■y  available  spot  of 
8  prosjierity. 
-Tliemain  portion  of 
8  it  is  approached  l)y 
pleasing  apjiearaiice. 
t-ams  of  w ater  couis- 
ides,  wliile  rows  of 
he  walks;  and  jrar- 
ruit  trees  of  varicus 
the  eye.  Visitors 
itiful  garde.18,  will 
1  Main  Street,  just 
S  at  the   residences 

also   at   Mr.   Jcu- 

near  the  depots. 
irty  years   old.  and 

can  see  for  Jiini- 
finges  have  \wv\\ 
:)uds    and    blossoms 

admirably  located 
;harnis   its   visitors. 

carriage  and  drive 
!ets,  and  see  the  vil- 
gardens.     The  fiist 
th  the  traveler  is  !o 
iring  his  visit.     Of 
iss  houses  that  are 
veling  public.    1  lie 
brick  structure  with 
n  the  west   side  of 
!  of  82  feet  an<l  a 
lately  I  pen  entirely 
'urnished;  also  lias 
ger  elevator.     It  is 
ent  table,  which  is 
ih,  etc.    The  Con- 
nsend  House)  is  on 
and  South  Second 
J  piazza  along  t' o 
aco  eastward,  both 
aro  Bupnlied  with 
uxurios,  rheroare 
ity,  whiciiiricoii' 
largely  patronized, 
laving  eelocted  a 
ig  is  a  visit  to  tlie 
bath.     The  streot 


OFFICES  AND  FAMILY  BBglDENCE  OF  BRIOUAM   VOUNO. 


cars,  running  by  nearly  all  the  hotels,  will  take 
you  there. 

iFuvm  SprinffH. — These  are,  to  invdids, 
tiie  most  grateful  and  dolightful  plivces  o;  resort 
in  the  city.  Exceedingly  valuable  either  for 
rheumatic  or  dyspeptic  complaints,  th^y  are  ex- 
cellent in  general  invigoratmg  propeities,  and 
specially  efficacious  in  skin  diseases.  They  are 
but  about  ono  mile  from  tho  hotel,  and  can  be 
reached  either  by  horse-cars  or  carriage,  or  b|y 
a  pleasant  walk.  The  best  time  tc  enjoy  them  is 
early  in  the  momii.g  before  breakfast,  or  before 
dinner.  The  batlis  never  should  be  taken  writhiu 
three  hours  after  a  meal.  The  springs  issue 
from  the  limestone  rook  near  the  foot  of  the 
mountjiius,  and  tho  curious  character  of  the  rock 
is  seen  ir..  the  stones  used  for  either  fences  or  the 
foundation  of  the  buildings.  The  following  an- 
alysis has  been  made  Ji  the  water  by  Dr.  Charles 
S.' Jackson  of  Biv.ton,  and  is  generally  posted  on 
the  walls  of  ^'..e  bathing-house. 

"  Three  lUiid  ounces  of  tJie  water,  on  evapo- 
rating U)  entire  dryin!.ss  in  a  platine  capsule,  gave 
8.25  grains  of  solid  dry  s-iline  matter. 

Caiboii'ite  of  lime  and  inagiieaia,  0.240  1.280 

Peroxide  of  iruu,  O.OiO  0  208 

Lime.  0.545  2.9(»7 

Chlorine,  .4M  18  421 

Soila.  ^.877  1S.344 

MttgnesiA,  C.;i70  2.073 

Sulpliuno  Acid,  0,703  3.T48 

8.229    48.981 

It  is  slightly  charged  with  hydro-sulphuric  acid 
gas,  and  with  carbonic  acid  gas,  and  is  a  plea.s- 
ant,  saline  mintiral  water,  having  the  valiiabl<? 
properties  belonging  to  a  saline  sulphur  spring. 
The  temporature  is  uikewann,  and,  being  of 
sulphurous  nature,  the  effects  are  very  ynnie- 
tratiiig;  at  fn-st  the  .sensation  is  delicioiLS,  pro- 
d  .iiing    a  delightful    feeling  of    ease   and   re- 


pose; but  if  the  bather  remains  long,  over 
fifteen  minutes,  there  is  danger  of  weakness  and 
too  great  relaxation.  These  baths  are  now  un- 
der control  of  an  experienced  gentleman,  and 
fitted  up  with  avei-y  modern  convenience.  Here 
are  Turkish  baths,  Hot  Air  baths  and  Russian 
baths,  In  addition  to  the  natural  bath.  The 
warm  sulphur-water  can  be  enjoyed  in  private 


VEVr  MORMON  TKMPLE. 


rooms,  or  in  the  large  swimming  bath.  Tliere  are 
separate  rooms  for  ladiea  and  gentlemen,  and  a 
Bm.<dler  building  near  by  is  fixed  up  for  the  boys, 
wheie  they  can  frolic  to  their  heart's  content. 
Hot    Springs. — Tho   tourist  should   take 


i/' 


"1 


m 


■X:^ 


"■y  I 


!'   il 


i' 


a 


m 

1 

M 

* 

1^4 


trJS  • 


carriage,  and,  after  visiting  the  Warm  Springs 
and  enjoying  the  bath,  drive  a  mile  farther  north 
to  where  tlie  mountain  spu"  jnts  out  to  the  very 
raih'oad — and,  right  at  its  base  are  situated  the 
«'//ot  Springs."  wiiich  are  the  greatest  natural 
curiosity  of  the  city.  The  water  boils  up,  with 
great  force,  from  a  little  alcove  in  the  limestone 
rocks,  just  even  with  tho  surface  of  the  ground. 
If  you  dare  to  thrust  your  hand  in  it,  you  will 
find  it  boiling  hot,  apparently  with  a  temperature 
of  over  200*'.  The  fintjer  can  not  be  retained  in 
the  water  longer  than  a  very  few  seconds ;  yet  the 
sensation,  as  it  is  withdrawn,  is  so  soft  and  cool- 
ing, one  would  like  to  try  it  again  and  again,  and 
strange  to  n.iy,  rarely  wiiu  u.i  v  uuugcr  oi  scald- 
ing.   If  meat  is  dropped  into  this  boiling  water, 


agriculture  and  vegetation  for  hundredy  of  Vtirds 
within  the  vicinity.  This  lake  is  also  supposed 
to  be  supplied,  to  some  extent,  by  other  liot 
springs  beneath  the  surface.  Strange  as  it  jnay 
seem,  the  hot  water  does  not  prevent  the  ex- 
istence of  some  kinds  of  excellent  fish,  auiong 
which  have  been  seen  some  very  fine  large  trout 
Analysis  of  Hot  Sulphur  Spring : 

Cblorideof  Sodium, 
"         "  Mugiiesium, 
"   Clclum, 
Sulphate  of  Lime. 
Carboimie  of  L.lm<«, 
Silica, 


0.8052 
O.d^KH 
O.ldWi 
O.tiSdC 
00180 
0.0180 


Speviflc  gravity,  1.1454. 
The  Mnneuin — is  locxt.H  nr 


l.W'12 


south  sid« 


INTBBIOB  or  OFriCB  UP  TUB  UUUMUM  HKBSIDBXT. 


it  is  soon  cooked,  (though  we  cannot  guarantee 
a  pleaiant  taster)  and  eggs  will  be  boiled,  ready 
for  the  table,  in  three  minutes.  Often  a  dense 
volume  of  steam  rises  from  the  sprino:,  though 
not  alwciys.  A  very  large  volume  of  water  issues 
forth  from  the  little  hole  in  tha  rock — scarcely 
larafer  thau  the  top  of  a  barrel — about  four  feet 
wide  and  six  to  twenty  inches  deep.  Immedi- 
ately near  the  rock  is  a  little  pool,  in  which  the 
water,  still  hot,  deposits  a  peculiar  greenish  color 
on  the  sides,  and  coats  the  loii<r,  wavy  grass  with 
its  sulphurous  sediment.  Flowing  liencath  the 
railroad  track  and  beyond  in  the  meadows,  it 
forms  .'v  oeantifnl  little  lake,  called  Hot  Spring 
Lake,  which,  constantly  fillinjr  up,  is  steadily  in- 
cr?i4sing  its  area,  and,  practict  Uy,  destroying  all 


of  South  Temple  street,  and  directly  oppo.  ' 
the  Tabernacle.  Professor  Barfoot  is  ir.  (harjjt, 
and  he  will  show  you  specimen  ores  1  (  '  *iie 
mines,  precious  stones  from  the  desert.  ;-:  H  .i-v- 
ware  and  other  articles  from  the  ruins  of  n;  ■  . . 
Indian  villages,  the  first  boat  ever  la  anchedL,.  tu) 
Great  Salt  Lake  by  white  nu"i,  home-made 
cloths  and  silks,  the  products  of  tne  industry  of 
this  pnople,  fipc'.'imon  birds  of  Utah,  a  scalp 
from  the  Iip  i  of  a  d?r.  '  Tndian  iinpler.'Pnts  of 
Indian  war  are  an'l  '  uii  ;try,  s  ich  as  blankets 
white  peop'o  cann'.t  m.ik  ■,  shelb  from  the  .^citn. 
and  various  articles  from  the  Sandwich  Islands, 
and  other  thiiifs  too  numerous  to  mention. 

Formerly  there  weie  ouite  a  number  of  livincr 
wild  animals  kept  here,  out  some  fiend  poi.sone<! 


136 


r  hundredi!  of  v.iids 
ike  is  also  siquiosed 
stent,  by  other  Iiot 
Strange  as  it  may 
lot  prevent  the  ex- 
icellent  fish,  among 
^ery  fine  large  trout 
Spring : 

0.8052 

O.ldiHi 
O.liRIH! 
OOltHI 
0.0180 


-Jo.- 


l.O^'i'J 


south  sid*) 


directly  oppo.  n 
irfoot  is  ill  <harpfc, 
len  ores  f  o  '  the 
he  deser!,  '•■.■'<■  ^rv- 
le  ruins  of  hv     . . 

erlajnchedc.  fio 

men,  home-miide 
of  tne  industry  of 
of  Utah,  a  seal]) 
an   imi>]or.'ent8  of 

s  icli  as  Idnnkcts 
h  from  tlio  cc»iiii. 
inudwich  Island.s, 

to  mention. 

mnnher  of  liviiicr 
ne  fiend  poisonec! 


y^^.«-rf      ■  - 


VIEW  OF  SALT  LAKE  CITY,  LOOKINO  WESTWARD  ACROSS  THE  JORDAN  VALLKV. 


l^ 


the  most  of  them.  TK-^re  are  now  livinj;,  how- 
t'V(>r,  a  larare  horned  owl,  a  prairie  dog,  and  the 
owls  that  burrcv.-  v.iln  him,  together  with  the 
rattlesnake  ;  also  other  birds  and  reptiles  which 
need  not  be  camed.  This  institution  is  the  re- 
sult of   the   individual  enterprise  of  John  VV. 


liStlllfflW: 


SIO.N  OF  MORMON'  STORES.— SALT  LAKE  niTY. 


Young,  Esq.,  and  for  which  he  is  entitled  to 
great  credit.  A  nominal  sum,  simply,  is  charged 
for  admission,  which  goes  for  the  support  of  Pro- 
fessor Barfoot,  who  has  the  care  and  direction  of 
the  Museum.  Across  the  street,  behind  a  high 
wall,  is  the  Tabernacle,  and  near  by  it,  on  the 
east,  enclosed  within  the  same  high  wall,  are  the 
foundation  walls  of  the  new  Temple.  We  shall 
not  attempt  a  description  of  either,  as  .\  personal 
inspection  will  be  far  ir'-,.-e  satisfactoiy  to  the 
visitor.  We  advise  every  tourist  to  get  to  the 
top  of  the  Tabernacle,  if  jwssible,  and  get  a  view 
of  the  city  from  the  roof.  Within  the  same 
walls  may  be  found  the  Endowment  house,  of 
which  so  much  has  been  written.  In  this  build- 
ing both  monogamous  and  polygamous  marriages 
take  place,  and  the  quasi-ma.sonic  rites  of  the 
church  are  performed.  On  South  Temple  street, 
east  of  Temple  block,  is  the  late  residence  of 
Brigham  Young,  also  enclosed  in  a  high  wall 
which  shuts  out  the  rude  gaze  of  pas.sers-by,  and 
gently  reminds  the  outsider  that  he  has  no  busi- 
ness to  obtrude  there.  Nearly  opposite  to  this 
resid '!ice  is  a  large  and  beautiful  house  which 
is  supposed  to  belong  to  the  Prophet's  favorite 
wife,  Amelia  —  familiarly  called  Amelia  Palace, 
probably  the  finest  residence  for  500  miles  around, 
ketnrning  to  East  Temple  or  Main  street,  we 
behold  a  largo  brick  building  with  iron  and 
glass  front,  three  stories  high,  with  a  skylight  its 


ft 

m 
m 


M 


^'  \~ 


;■•  i 


ftti'Li 


I  \ 

I  ii 


m 


If 


136 


rMM  p^eii^ic  remiiSF. 


entire  length.  This  is  the  new  "co-op"  store, 
40  feet  wide  and  300  feet  long,  with  all  the  mod- 
ern impioveinents,  steam  elevator,  etc.  Nearly 
opjwsite  this  store  is  Savage's  picture  gallery, 
wnose  photographs  of  scenerj'  and  views 
along  the  road,  are  the  finest  of  any  ever 
issued  in  the  Territory.  Continuing  on 
the  same  street  south,  me  handsome  build- 
ing of  the  Deseret  National  Bank  greets 
our  gaze,  on  the  north-east  corner  of  East 
Temple  and  First 
South  streets.  Di- 
agonally across  the 
street  from  this  is 
the  emporium  of 
William  Jennings, 
Esq.  But  it  is 
needless  to  enu- 
merate all  the 
buildings  in  the 
city,  be  they  pub- 
lic or  private. 
We  must  not  omit, 
however,  the  ele- 
gant private  resi- 
dence and  beau- 
tiful grounds  of 
Mr.  Jennings,  on 
the  corner  east  of 
the  depot.  Thiy 
are  worthy  of  a 
visit,  and  so,  also, 
is  the  elegant  pri- 
vate residence  of 
Feramor  Little, 
directly  east  of  the 
Diseret  National 
Bank.  The  theater 
is  open  occasion- 
ally in  tha  even- 
ing, where  may  be 
seen  many  of  the 
leading  Mormons 
and  th-iir  families. 

The  city  is  sup- 
plied  with  the 
electrio  light,  gas, 
water,  and  s'  ect 
railroads,  i'ho 
water  is  brought 
from  City  Creek  Canon,  through  the  principal 
street*},  m  iron  pipes,  though  in  soma  seasons 
the  supply  is  rather  short. 

Hcenery  N^ear  ttie  C'«y.— North  of  the  city, 
Ensign  Peak  lifts  its  head,  the  Mountain  of 
Prophecy,  etc.  Its  crown  is  oval  in  shape,  and 
the  mountain,  etc  ,  is  said  to  have  been  s(!en  in  a 
vision  by  some  of  the  Mormon  dignitaries  long 
before  it  was  beheld  by  the  naked  eyes  of  the 
present  settlers.  The  sight  from  thia  peak,  or 
others  near  at  hand,  is  grand  and  impressive. 
Under  your  feet  lies  the  City  of  the  Saints,  to 


INTERIOR  OF  MORMOV  TABRBNACLB.— THE  OREAT  ORQAH. 


the  west  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  to  the  south  tlie 
valley  of  the  river  Jordan,  the  settlements  along 
the  line  of  the  railroad,  and  the  mountains  on 
either  side.  Though  the  way  to  the  sumniit  re- 
quires a  little  toil,  and  will  expand  one's  luiijjs  to 
liie  fullest  extent,  yet  the  reward,  when  once  the 
sununit  is  reached,  will  amply  pay  for  all  the 
toil  it  has  cost. 

In  the  summer  months  only,  the  Tabernacle  is 
open,  and  the  services  of  the  Xlormon  church  are 

then  held  there 
nearly  evei-j'  Sab- 
bath. Behind  the 
rostrum  or  pulpit 
is  the  ^reat  orjjan, 
made  m  the  city, 
and  said  to  he  the 
second  in  size  on 
the  Continent. 

East  of  the  city 
there  seems  to  lie 
a  withdrawal  of 
the  mountains  and 
a  part  of  a  circle, 
formed  like  an 
amphitheatre, 
About  two  miles 
east  is  Camp 
Douglas,  estab- 
lished by  General 
Connor  dining  the 
latewaic  It  is  beau- 
tifully located  on 
an  elevated  bench 
commanding  the 
city,andattneliase 
of  the  mountains, 
New  buildi  ngs 
have  been  erected, 
and  it  is  now 
considered  one 
of  the  finest  and 
most  convenient 
posts  the  gov  Mil- 
ment  has.  It  is 
supplied  with 
water  from  11  e  d 
Butte  Canon,  and 
has  a  great  many 
conveniences. 
Below  Camp  Douglas,  Emigration  Canon  ne:t 
cuts  the  mountains  in  twain.  It  is  the  canon 
through  which  Orson  Pratt  and  his  companions 
came  when  they  first  discovered  the  valley,  the 
lake,  and  the  site  for  a  city — through  which 
Brigham  Young  and  the  pioneers  came,  and  w  as 
the  route  by  which  nearly  all  the  overland  emi- 
grants arrived,  on  coming  from  the  East.  Behnv 
this,  as  you  look  south,  is  Parley's  Canon, 
through  which  a  road  leads  to  Parley's  Park  and 
the  mining  districts  in  that  region.  Then  conns 
South  Mill  Creek  with  its  canon,  through   the 


137 


ike,  to  the  south  the 
lie  settlements  along 
d  the  mountains  on 
ay  to  the  summit  re- 
xpand  one's  lun},'s  to 
ward,  when  once  tlie 
iply  pay  for  all  the 

ily,  the  Tabernacle !« 
I  Mormon  cimrcli  are 
then  held  there 
nearly  even'  Sab- 
bath, behind  the 
rostrum  or  pulpit 
is  the  great  orj^an, 
made  in  the  city, 
and  said  to  be  tlie 
second  in  size  on 
the  Continent. 

East  of  the  city 
there  seems  to  Iw 
a    withdrawal    of 
the  mountaiiiH  and 
a  part  of  a  circle, 
formed    like   an 
amphitheatre, 
About   two   miles 
east    is    Camp 
Douglas,  estab- 
lished by  General 
Connor  during  the 
late  ware  It  is  beau- 
tifully   located  on 
an  elevated  beiicli 
commanding   the 
city,aiidattnelia.se 
of  the  mountains, 
New  buildi  iigs 
have  been  erected, 
and    it    is    now 
considered  one 
of   the  finest  and 
most    convenii'iit 
posts  the  gov'rn- 
inent  has.      It  is 
supplied   with 
water   from  11  e  d 
Butte  Canon,  and 
has  a  great  many 
conveniences, 
gratioii  Canon  iiert 
It  is  the  canon 
lid  his  conipuiiions 
red  the  valley,  llie 
,y — through   which 
leers  came,  and  was 
the  overland  emi- 
n  the  East.     Below 
Parley's    Cam  mi, 
Parley's  Park  and 
^ion.     Then  conies 
anon,  through   the 


towering  peak,s,  and  then  the  Big  Cottonwood 
(Week  and  Canon.  Between  it  and  Little  Cot- 
tonwood Canon,  next  on  the  south,  is  the  mount- 
ain of  silver — or  the  hill  uix)n  whicli  is  located 
,sonie  of  the  richest  paying  mines  in  the  Terri- 
tory. Here  is  the  Flagstaff,  the  North  Star,  the 
JMiitna,  the  Reed  &  Benson,  and  others  worth 
(heir  millions.  The  Emma  mine  has  b  oome 
notorious  in  the  history  of  mines,  but  there  is 
not  a  practical  miner  in  Utah  who  doubts  the 
existence  of  large  bo'l'ss  of  rich  ore  there,  and, 
if  it  had  been  pri.AjDically  worked,  would,  in  the 
opinion  of 
many,  have 
equaled,  if  not 
exceeded,  the 
celebrated  Corn- 
stock  lode  be- 
fore this. 

No  visitor  to 
Salt  Lake 
8  h  0  u  Id  leave 
the  city  with- 
out a  trip  to  the 
lake  and  a  ride 
on  its  placid 
boscn — a  trip. 
also,  to  the 
southern  ter- 
minus of  the 
Utah  Southern 
Railroad,  the 
mountains  and 
canons  along 
its  line,  and  to 
the  mountains 
and  mines  of 
Stockton, 
Ophir,  Bing- 
ham, and  above 
all,  tiie  Cotton- 
wood districts. 
If  you  are  fur- 
ther inclined  to 
iinpixjve  the  o|v 
iwrlunity,  rid? 
up  to  Parley's 
Park,  go    to 


NEW  RESIDEXCK  OF   nUICWI 


Provo  and  spend  a  week,  or  a  month  even,  in 
visiting  the  wonderful  canons  near  there,  and 
in  hunting  and  Hshing  in  the  mountain  streams 
and  in  Lake  Utah.  A  trip  to  the  summit  of 
old  Mount  Nebo  wouKl  afford  you  good  ex- 
ercise, and  very  fine  views.  With  Salt  Lake 
for  headcpiartei-.s,  all  these  places  can  be  taken 
in,  and  your  only  regret  will  be  that  you  did 
not  stay  longer,  travel  farther,  and  see  more  of 
this  wonderful  land. 

Garilciiiii(/f  Ii'Hf/affon. — The  city  w.as 
originally  laid  out  in  large  ten  acre  block.s,  wiiich 
were,  in  time,  subdivided  into  house  lots,  most 
of  which,  having  been   liberally  planted  with 


fruit  trees,  liave  since  grown  with  great  luxuri- 
ance, and  the  city  seems  a  vast  fruit  orchaid  and 
garden.  'J'hrough  all  the  streets  run  tlie  little 
irrigating  streams,  and  every  part  of  tin  <]\\ 
has  its  chance,  once  or  twice  a  week,  to  pit  a^^^|V 
ply  of  pure  water  to  wet  tiie  soil  ai.d  In  ^ll■  h  lie' 
vegetation. 

The  city  is  divided  into  wards.  Every  ward 
has  its  master,  and  lie  coini)els  all  the  inhab- 
itants to  turn  out  and  work  on  public  iinpiove- 
ments.  There  is  no  .shirking.  Every  one  h.as  a 
re.sponsibility   to    guard   and    watch    his   own 

property,  take 
care  of  his  own 
irrigating 
d  i  tches,  and 
keep  his  ward 
in  i)erfect  order. 
The  city  is  one 
of  perfect  order 
and  quietness. 

Through  all 
the  streets  of 
the  city  there 
is  a  universal 
a  n  d  luxuriant 
growth  of 
shade  trees. 
1'hese  have 
been  planted 
profusely,  a  n  d 
grow  with 
amazing  rapid- 
ity. T  h  e  lo- 
cust, maple  and 
box-elder,  are 
the  greatest  fa- 
vorites, the  for- 
mer, however, 
be  i  n  g  most 
planted.  In 
m  any  cases 
the  roots  have 
struck  the  al- 
kali soils,  which 
contain  an  ex- 
cess o  f  soda 
and  ]K)tash,  and 


;^^'^tdi;A<^!^ 


■  "  /nil,  .fjj    A-,   t/^ 
AM    VOIIKO.  — AMELIA    PALACE. 

their  leaves  have  turned  from  a  bright  or  dark 
green  to  a  sickly  yellow — and  often  trees  may  be 
noticed,  half  green  and  half  yellow. 

This  alkali  has  to  be  washed  out  of  the  soil  by 
irrigation,  and  gradually  grows  less  positive  year 
by  year.  In  nearly  all  the  gardens  are  spbndid 
apples,  pears,  plums  and  apiicots.  giowing  with 
exceeding  thrift,  and  covered  witii  the  most 
beautiful  blushing  colors.  Apricots  whicii  in 
the  Kast  are  almost  unkih^wn,  here  have  been  .so 
almndant  as  often  to  sell  as  low  .as  sfl.OO  per 
bushel,  and  we  have  seen  them  as  largf!  as  east- 
ern peacljes,  fiom  four  to  six  and  eight  inches 
round. 


m 
111 


iii 


.11 


s 


188 


Flowers  are  very  abundant,  and  vegetables  are 
wonderfully  prolific.  In  the  gardens  of  William 
Jennings,  may  be  seen  growing  out  doors  on 
trellises,  grapes,  the  Black  Ilanibui-gh,  Golden 
Chasselas  and  Mission  grape,  varieties  which  are 
only  grown  in  a  hot-house  in  the  East.  Through 
all  the  gardens  can  be  seen  an  abundance  of 
raspberries,  gooseberries  and  currants.  In  Mr. 
tiennings's  garden,  in  summer,  may  be  seen  a 
pretty  flower  garden,  150  feet  in  diameter, — 
within  the  center  of  which  is  a  piece  of  velvety 
lawn — the  finest  and  most  perfect  ever  seen — 
while  from  it,  southward,  can  be  caught  a  spe- 
cially glorious  view  of  tlie  Twin  Peaks  of  the 
Wahsatch  Mountains,  capped  with  unvarying 
gnow. 

Future  of  Stilt  Lake  Citf/. — The  future  of 
Salt  Lake  depends  upon  two  things — the  mines 
and  the  railroads.  If  the  mines  are  developed 
and  capital  is  thus  increased,  it  will  have  a  ten- 
dency to  cause  an  immense  amount  of  building 
in  tbe  city,  and  a  corresponding  advance  in  real 
estate.  The  city  now  has  a  population  of 
twenty  thousand.  Many  parties  owning  and 
operating  mines  make  the  city  their  place  of 
residence,  and  some  have  already  invested  in 
real  estate  there.  If  the  Utah  Southern  is 
extended  to  the  Pacific  Coast,  it  will  add  largely 
to  the  wealth,  population  and  influence  of  the 
"City  of  the  Saints."  T-.<i  silent  influence  of 
the  Gentiles,  and  the  moral  power  of  the 
Nation,  have  already  had  an  effect  upon  the 
Mormons  of  the  citj,  which  will  soon  l^  felt 
throughout  the  Territory. 

Newftpapers. — The  press  of  Salt  Lake  ia 
exceedingly  peculiar.  The  Daily  JSiews  is  the 
recognized  church  organ;  the  £>'it7y  Hfrafdis 
more  lively.  It  is  the  organ  of  the  so-oaUed 
progressive  Mormons.  The  Daily  Tribune  is 
a  stinging,  lively  journal — the  leading  organ 
of  the  opposition  to  the  priesthood  and  the 
theocracy.  The  Mail  is  an  evening  paper, 
under  Ci-entile  influences,  but  not  as  bold  or 
belligerent  as  the  T'tbunt.  The  Utah  Weekly 
M titer  is  a  paper  devoted  to  the  development 
of  the  mineral  resources  of  the  Territory. 
There  is  another  little  evening  paper  called 
the  Times,  under  church  influences.  Fortunes 
have  laen  expended  upon  newspaper  enter- 
prises in  Salt  Lake,  but  with  the  exception 
of  the  three  papers  first  mentioned,  none  have 
succeeded. 

The  Utah  Southern  Railroad. — Thiii 
road  is  really  a  continuation  of  the  Utah  Cen- 
tral. It  was  begun  on  the  1st  day  of  May, 
1871,  and  completed  to  Sandy  that  same  year. 
In  1872  it  was  extended  to  Lehi,  about  thirty 
miles  from  Salt  Lake  City.  In  1873  it  was  ex- 
tended iu  Provo,  and  its  present  terminus  is 
at  Frisco,  an  important  mining  center  in 
southern  Utah.  It  will  probably  be  extended 
fi'ora  a  hundred  to  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles 


the  present  year.  Frisco  is  two  hundred  anu 
forty-two  miles  from  Salt  Lake  City,  and  some 
fifty  miles  from  the  eastern  line  of  Nevada. 
The  stockholders  of  the  Union  Pacific  Eoad 
own  a  controUing  interest  in  this,  as  also  in 
the  Utah  Central.  It  will  probably  bo  ex- 
tended to  the  Pacific  Coast.  The  great  bulk 
of  its  business  is  between  Salt  Lake  City  and 
Sandy,  though  travel  and  traffic  are  gradu- 
ally  increasing  on  the  balance  of  its  line,  and 
will  rapidly  double  up  as  soon  as  the  road  shall 
have  reached  the  rich  mining  districts  in  the 
southern  portions  of  Utah.  Its  general  di- 
rection is  southward  from  Salt  La^.e  City,  Tip 
the  Jordan  Valley  to  the  Valley  of  Lake  IJtali, 
and  thence  across  the  divide  as  before  men- 
tioned. The  giant  peaks  of  the  great  Wahsatch 
range  lie  close  along  the  road  on  the  east,  so 
that  the  traveler  has  an  unending  panorama 
of  lake,  valley  and  river  on  one  hand, 
and  of  the  snow-c(/vered  mountain  sum- 
mits and  timbered  foot-hills  on  the  other. 
Travelers  visiting  this  Tenitory  should  not  fail 
to  visit  the  towns,  valleys  and  mountains  on  tliis 
line  of  road.  The  Valley  of  Lake  Utah  espe- 
cially, entiiely  surrounded  by  mountains  lofty  and 
rugged,  will  compare  favora'jly,  so  far  as  magnifi- 
cent sceneiy  is  concerned,  with  anything  of  a 
similar  character  to  be  found  either  in  Europe 
or  America.  Leaving  Srilt  Lake  City,  we  sii-nly 
pass  through  the  limits  of  the  corporation  whei4 
cultivated  fields  and  ijardens,  with  farm  houses 
and  fine  orchards  of  °!1  kinds  of  fruit  trees, 
giving  evidences  oi  thrift  on  every  side,  greet 
our  gaze.  Streams  of  wa'^r  are  constantly  run- 
ning through  the  irrigating  ditchos,  and  t'.e 
contrast  between  the  cultivated  lar.as  avd  the 
sage  brush  de.serts,  son.etimes  ^ide  by  side,  is 
wonderful.  On  our  leU,  tho  everlasting  mount- 
ains, with  their  crown  i  of  snow  almost  always 
visible,  stand  like  an  inpenetrable  barrier  ai> 
proaches  from  the  eas,,  or  like  eternal  finger- 
boards, and  say  as  plain  y  as  words  can  indicate 
— "  go  south  or  nrrth ;  you  cannot  pass  us."  On 
the  right,  the  rivir  Jordan  winds  its  way  to  the 
waters  of  the  great  inland  sea,  while  beyond, 
towering  into  the  sky,  are  the  peaks  of  the 
Oquirrh  Range.  You  will  need  to  keep  your 
eyes  wide  open,  and  gaze  quickly  upon  the 
rapidly  changing  scenes  as  they  come  into  view, 
or  swiftly  recede  from  your  vision;  for,  between 
the  scenes  of  nature  and  the  works  of  man  in 
reclaiming  this  desert,  you  will  hardly  know 
which  to  admire  the  most,  or  which  ia  the  most 
worthy  of  your  attention. 

The  following  ai'o  stations  and  distances  from 
Salt  Lake  City:— 

Little  Cottonwood 7  milt's. 

Junction 12      " 

Sandy 13      *• 

Draper 17      «' 

liohi 81      " 


139 


two  liiindred  anu 
iko  City,  anil  Bome 
n  line  of  Nevada. 
nion  Faciflo  Boad 
Lu  this,  as  also  in 
.  pi'obably  bo  ex- 
;.  The  great  bulk 
3alt  Lake  City  aud 

traffic  are  gradu- 
ice  of  its  line,  and 
an  as  the  road  shall 
ng  districts  in  the 
I.  Its  general  di- 
Salt  La' .8  City,  up 
[ley  of  Lake  Utah, 
ie  as  before  men- 
the  great  Wahsateh 
[)ad  on  the  east,  so 
nending  panorama 
it  on  one  hand, 
mountain  sum- 
lls  on  the  other, 
ory  should  not  fail 
1  mountains  on  this 
if  Lake  Utah  espe- 
;nountaiii8  loity  and 
y,  so  far  as  niapnifi- 
hth  anythinp  of  a 
d  either  in  Europe 
ake  Cif},  we  slonly 
!  coiT'oration  whi'i4 
with  farm  houses 
ids  of  fruit  trees, 
n  every  side,  greet 
ire  constantly  run- 

ditchi^s.  and  t'.e 
,ted  la»M»  nvd  the 
!s  ^ide  by  side,  is 
everlasting  mount- 
low  almost  always 
rable  barrier  ap- 
like  eternal  finger- 
words  can  indicate 
nnot  pass  us."  On 
inds  its  way  to  the 

sea,  while   beyond, 

the  peaks  of  the 
need  to  keep  your 

quickly  upon  the 
ley  come  into  view, 
ision;  for,  between 
■works  of  man  in 
■will  hardly  know 
•  ■which  is  tho  most 

and  distances  from 


(I 


American  Fork bi  miles. 

Pleasant  Grove 37      " 

Provo 48      " 

Bpringville  53 

Bpanish  Fork 58 

Payson 6G 

Santaquin 71 

York 75 

Little  Cottonwood, — 7  miles  from  the  city. 
It  is  a  way  station  at  which  trains  do  not  stop 
unless  flagfifed,  or  tlie  signal  is  given  from  on 
board  tlie  train.  Ail  thi  canons  iuid  ravines  in 
tlie  mountains  supply  more  or  luss  water,  which 
is  gathered  into  canals  and  distributed  through 
ditches  as  re- 
quired for  the 
lields,  meadows 
and  orchards. 
The  well  culti- 
vated fields  con- 
tinue until  we 
arrive  at 

Junction, — 
12  miles  from 
Salt  I^iike  City, 
where  the  Bing- 
iiain  Canon  & 
Camp  Floyd 
Uailroad  inter- 
sects the  Utah 
Southern.  Pas- 
sengers here 
cliaiige  cars  for 
lliu'^'ham  Canon 
and  the  mining 
districts  in  that 
vicinity.  This 
road  1  s  about 
t  w  e  n  t  y  - 1  w  o 
miles  long  and 
i  s  extensively 
used  in  trans- 
porting ore,  bull- 
ion, coke,  coal 
and  charcoal  to 
and  from  the 
:n  i  n  e  s  and 
sninlting  works 
and  railroad.  It  is  a  narrow  gauge  (three 
feet)  road  and   is   now  doing  a  fine  business. 

Sfindy, — 13  miles  from  the  city  and  the  point 
of  intersection  of  the  Wahsateh  &  Jordan  Val- 
ley Railroad, — narrow  gauge  (three  feetV  This 
road  turns  o(f  to  the  h^ft  and  goes  ui>  Little 
Cottonwood  Canon,  which  can  now  plainly  be 
seen  from  the  cars.  The  Big  Cottonwood  ("anon 
is  also  in  sight.  There  they  are,  with  the  mount- 
ain of  silver  between  them.  Theie  is  silver 
enough  in  that  mountain  to  ji.ay  the  national 
debt  of  the  Unit(!<l  States,  with  enough  left  to 
pay  for  a  huge  fourth  of  July  celebration.  This 
road  has  some  very  heavy  grades,  and,  on  the 


SNOW  8LIDR   MOUNTAIN.— LITTLK  COTTONWOOD  CAXON. 


upper  end  of  it,  horses,  instead  of  engines,  are 
employed  to  haul  the  empty  cars.  These  two 
narrow  gauge  roads  are  now  under  one  manage- 
ment. The  Little  Cottonwtwd  Road  ".■  al)out 
eighteen  miles  in  length.  8andy  is  a  flourish- 
ing little  town.  It  has  several  smelteis,  or 
reduction  works,  where  crude  ore  is  converted 
into  bullion.  The  celebrnted  Flagstaff  mine 
has  its  .siuilting  works  here ;  its  ore  is  brought 
down  from  the  mine  on  the  Wahsateh  &  Jor- 
dan Valley  Railroad.  Every  visitor  to  Utah, 
who  is  at  all  interested  in  mines,  or  metal- 
lurgy, will  obtain  a  great  deal  of  informal 
tioii,  and  be  auiply  repaid  for  the  time  and  ex- 
pense of  a  visit 
to  its  more  cele- 
brated mining 
districts.  A 
visit  to  tiie  Bing- 
ham and  Little 
Cottonwood  Dis- 
tricts, certainly 
should  not  be 
neglected.  Leav- 
ing Sandy,  we 
enter  into  a  des- 
ert country 
again;  thefarni- 
1  louses  are  scat- 
t  '  •"•  though 
the  land  on  the 
right,  toward 
the  imiiiediate 
vicinity  of  the 
Jordan,  is  still 
pretty  well  set- 
tled. The  next 
station  is 
Drapeii'llle, 
— 17  miles  from 
Salt  Lake  City. 
It  is  an  nniui- 
jiortant  station, 
convenient  to  a 
little  Mormon 
settlement. 
Leaving  this  sta- 
tion we  8  0  0  n 
cross  South  Willow  Creek,  and  then  follow  the 
outer  rim  of  the  hills  around  the  valley  toward 
the  right,  like  a  huge  amphitheatre.  We  have 
been  going  up  hill,  and,  as  we  tun.  to  tlie  right, 
to  get  thro'<gli  a  pass  or  gorge  in  the  mount- 
ains, the  valley  below  ns  with  Sandy,  Salt 
Lake  City.  Salt  Lake  itself,  its  islands,  the 
mountains  beyond  and  a  vast  scope  of  country 
is  suddenly  unrolled,  like  a  beautiful  panor.uiiit, 
to  our  view  —  a  magnificent  spectacl**  which 
never  fails  to  excite  and  satisfy  the  oeholder. 
Turning  to  the  left  again,  we  near  the  narrows, 
and,  looking  to  the  right,  the  river  Jordan 
winds  along  beneath  us;   then,  passing  through 


•,M 


.  ■', 


iii 


140 


rmm  i^smcific  woMmtST. 


a  deep  cut,  we  suddenly  emerge  into  the 
valley  of  Lake  Utah,  and  at  once  become  en- 
chanted with  the  lovely  view  now  spread  out  be- 
fore us.  The  valley,  cities  and  towns  we  hiive 
just  left,  are  entirely  shut  out  from  our  vision, 
and,  in  their  stead,  new  wonders  invite  our  at- 
tention. There  is  Lake  Utah,  with  little  villages 
and  settlements  between  its  shores  and  the  base 
of  the  mountains,  and  those  mountains  thou- 
sands of  feet  in  height,  piercing  the  very  cloudH, 
around  it.  With  an  elevation  about  5()0  feet 
higher  than  that  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  it 
lies  nestled  down  among  the  lofty  peaks,  as 
though  it  would  hide  its  beauty  and  shun  the 
gaze  of  the  outside  world.  But  iron  arms  have 
forced  their  way  through  the  rugged  defiles,  and 
now  hold  it  in  long  and  lasting  embrace. 
Henceforth  it  will  receive  the  homage  of  thou- 
sands, and  become  a  place  of  worship  to  the 
multitudes  who  shall  see  in  it  and  its  surround- 
ings, the  Mecca  of  their  pilgrimages — the  grati- 
fication of  their  desires  and  the  satisfaction  of 
evei-y  ho^M).  This  is  strong  language,  and  the 
tourist  himself  shall  be  the  judge  of  its  truth- 
fulness. This  lake  is  virtually  the  head  of  the 
river  Jordan.  Jt  winds  its  way,  like  a  ribbon  of 
silver,  through  the  valley,  passes  through  the 
gorge  we  have  entered  and  becomes  lost  to  view. 
l>own  into  the  valley  of  the  lake  we  go  and  ar- 
rive at 

ItChif — the  next  station,  31  miles  from  the 
City  of  the  Saints.  It  is  located  on  Dry  Canon 
Creek,  though  the  creek  furnishes  water  sutti- 
cient  to  irrigate  the  thrifty  farms  bordering  the 
little  village.  A  large  portion  of  the  bottom- 
lands around  the  lake  are  cultivated  and  irrigated 
with  the  water  that  Hows  down  the  mountain 
streams. 

American  Fork, — 34  miles  from  Salt  Lake 
City,  is  now  reached.  It  is  named  from  the 
creek  and  canon  Kick  of  the  town,  which  has 
cleft  the  mountains  in  twain,  and  left  on  thetr 
ragged  edges  the  marks  of  the  heroic  and  victo- 
rious struggle.  From  this  town  another  narrow 
gauge  railroad  has  been  built  up  the  canon  to 
Deer  Creek,  some  twelve  miles,  to  accommodate 
the  necessities  of  the  mines  which  have  bfuii 
opened  there.  Of  the  grand  scenery  of  this 
noted  canon  we  shall  speak  in  another  place. 
The  town  is  about  six  miles  from  the  mouth 
of  the  canon,  and  has  everv  anpearauce  of  the 
industry  which  usually  characterizes  Mormon 
towns. 

IHennant  Grove, — 37  miles  i-on.  the  citv.  is 
the  next  station.  It  is  a  thrivi\i>i  canning  set- 
tlement, and  similar  to  all  the  lit' ie  villages  in 
the  Territory.  It  was  formerly  called  Battle 
Creek  because  of  a  fight  which  early  settlers  hpd 
with  the  Ute  Indians.  Leaving  Pleasant  Grove 
we  soon  arrive  at 

Provo. — is  miles  from  Salt  Lake  Citv,  and 
the  tiiird  town  in  size  in  Utah  Territory,  having 


a  population  of  about  5,000  souls.  After  leaving 
the  last  station,  off  to  the  left,  Piovo  Canon  is 
visible,  with  Provo  or  Timpanogos  River  flowing 
through  it.  This  river  rises  in  the  western  s|«ur 
of  the  Uintah  Mountains,  flows  along  the  sontii- 
ern  part  of  Kammas  Prairie  and  then  turns  to  llie 
soutn-west,  entering  what  is  called  Provo  Valley, 
which  lies  east  of  tlie  range  of  mountains  on  our 
left,  and  finally  cutting  through  this  range  into 
the  valley  of  Lake  L  tah.  Observe,  as  you  ap. 
proach  the  town,  how  the  strata  of  rocks  in  the 
mountains  on  each  side  of  the  canon  dip  toward 
each  other.  An  immense  body  of  water  flows 
down  this  river,  annually — more  than  passes 
through  the  river  Jordan,  the  surplus  being 
taken  up  by  evaporation  or  drank  by  tiie 
thirsty  soil.     We    cross  the  river   as   we    aj> 

{Hoach  the  town,  and  for  the  first  time  since 
eaving  Salt  Lake,  see  small  bodies  of  tiiiibcr, 
mostly  Cottonwood,  and  a  lliiek  undergrowtii  of 
brush,  etc. 

The  Utah  and  Pleasant  Valley  Railway  (nar- 
row gauge)  here  connects  with  the  Utah  South- 
em.  This  narrow  gauge  line  has  recently  been 
purchased  by  the  Denver  and  Rio  Urande 
Railway  Company,  to  be  used  in  connection 
with  tlio  Utah  tmnk  line  that  corporation 
is  now  building  westward  from  Denver.  The 
Utah  and  Pleasant  Valley  is  completed  some 
sixty  miles  east  of  Provo  to  the  Pleasant  Valley 
coal  fields,  and  is  being  rapidly  extended. 

Sporting. — Between  the  town  and  lake  are 
low  marshes  and  meadows  which  render  tiiis 
place  a  paradise  for  ducks,  which  fact  the  sjiorts- 
nian  will  do  well  to  note.  The  streams  which 
flow  into  the  lake  abound  in  fish,  and  the  lake 
itself  is  full  of  trout,  chub,  suckers,  etc.  It  is 
no  unfrequent  matter  to  catch  trout  here  weigh- 
ing from  seven  to  ten  pounds,  though  from  two 
to  five  pounds  is  their  usual  weight.  The  tiout 
ascend  the  streams  in  the  proper  season  to  de- 
posit their  .spawn  ;  the  suckers  follow  to  devour 
it,  and  sometimes  they  almost  choke  the  river,  so 
vast  are  they  in  numbers,  and  are  cauglit  in 
large  quantities.  The  streams  sometimes  fall  so 
rapidly  that  they  are  left  in  shallow  places  and 
die  there  as  the  water  recedes.  Measures  should 
be  taken  to  prevent  this  wholesale  raid  on  tiie 
spawn  of  the  trout,  or  it  will  sot-n  be  des- 
troyed— at  least  materially  lessened.  If  the 
suckers  are  masters  of  the  situation,  so  far  as  tiie 
spawn  is  concerned,  the  reverse  holds  true  with 
the  trout  in  the  lake,  for  there  they  attack  the 
suckers  without  mercy,  and  the  old  adage  that 
"the  big  fish  eat  the  little  ones,"  proves  liter- 
ally true.  It  is  evident  that  the  young  8\iek- 
ers  are  highly  relished  by  the  larger  trout  in  this 
lake. 

The  town  of  Provo  is  regularly  laid  out,  has 
numerous  school -h r  ,ses,  stores,  grist-mill,  tanner- 
ies, woolen  factor  .  ;tc.  Brigham  Young  lia>  a 
private  residence  here,  which  lie  frequently  visits, 


FMB  .^aaiFic  remiisr. 


141 


and  which  is  occupiod  by  one  of  his  so-called 
wives.  It  has  finofjf  cultivated  gardens,  yards, 
orduards  and  small  farms  adjacent 

Springville — 53  miles  from  Salt  Lake  Oity. 
The  little  town  lies  at  the  mouth  of  the  canon 
through  which  the  Utah  and  Pleasant  Valley 
B'way  turns  eastward  to  the  extensive  coalfields 
in  Pleasant  Valley,  some  sixty  miles  east.  This 
coal  poHsesses  coking  qualities,  and  as  a  large 
amount  of  coke  is  now  imported  from  Pittsburg, 
Pa.,  for  the  use  of  the  numerous  smelting  works 
in  the  Territory,  it  at  once  becomes  an  object  to 
manufacture  it  nearer  home.  Coke  made  from 
coal  found  in  the  San  Pete  Valley  is  already  ship- 
ped from  this  point.  Still  rounding  the  eastern 
nm  of  the  valley,  we  soon  arrive  at  the  upxt  star 
don,  which  is 

Spanish  Fork, — 53  miles  from  Sau  tiake 
City.  To  the  left,  the  traveler  will  obsei-ve  the 
canons  and  gorges  which  have  cut  their  way 
through  the  mountains,  and  the  lofty  peaks  of 
Mount  Nebo,  now  nearly  in  front.  Hobble 
Creek  courses  a  canon  through  the  range  back 
of  Springville,  and  now  Spanish  Fork  does  like- 
wi.se.  There  is  more  of  a  depression  in  the 
mountain,  however,  where  this  river  canons 
tlii'ough.  It  has  two  main  branches  on  the  other 
side  of  the  ranife — upon  the  northern,  the  pro- 
posed Denver  Kaih-oad  comes  in,  while  the 
southern  branch  heads  in  the  divide  that  crosses 
San  Pete  Valley,  east  of  Mount  Xebo.  Near 
Wales,  in  this  valley,  coking  coal  has  been  dis- 
covered, ovens  erected,  and  the  manufactured 
article  is  now  delivered  at  Springville,  being 
hauled  nearly  6(i  miles  by  wagons.  The  pro- 
jected railroad  from  Springville,  will  pass  up  the 
valley  of  the  Spanish  tork  River.  The  town  ia 
located  on  this  river,  a  little  distance  from  the 
road.  We  cross  the  river  soon  after  leaving 
the  .station.  A  little  village  called  Pontoun,  is 
seen  on  the  left  at  the  base  of  Mount  Xebo. 

Fuf/son, — 86  miles  from  the  City  of  the 
Saints.  Iron  ore  is  shipped  from  here  to  the 
sni^lt'jrs,  where  it  is  used  for  fluxing  purposes  in 
the  reduction  of  ore.  It  is  hauled  some  14  miles 
bv  wagons.  It  is  said  to  bear  60  or  65  per  cent 
o{  iron,  and  is  known  as  brown  hematite.  At 
this  station  and  the  next,  ore  and  bullion  are 
hauled  from  the  East  Tintic  Miiiing  District 
which  is  about  22  miles  away.  To  our  light,  a 
mountain  rises  from  the  level  plain  around  it 
while  the  lake  puts  out  an  arm,  as  if  to  clasp  it 
in  fond  embrace.  Between  this  mountain  and 
Mount  Xebo,  the  road  finds  its  way,  and  a  little 
farther  on,  this  arm  of  the  lake  can  be  seen  west 
of  the  mountain. 

Santaquin — is  the  next  station,  71  miles 
from  Salt  Lake  City.  Stage  lines  leave  here 
for  the  Tintic  Mining  District  on  the  west 
In  one  year  this  station  received  one  million, 
tons  of  the  ore.  Hei  e,  as  well  as  at  numerous 
other  ittfti^ns,  are  noticed  the  large  warehouses 


of  the  Utah  Forwarding  Company,  a  corpora- 
tion which  has  its  chief  oiBco  at  Halt  Lake  City, 
and  does  an  immense  carrying  business,  reach- 
ing out  to  the  farthermost  settlements  and  min- 
ing camps  of  Utah.  The  road  now  passes 
through  a  low  depression  or  vaJley,  which  di- 
vides the  Wahsatch  and  Oquirrh  Banves,  and 
across  the  divide  between  Lake  Utah  and  Juab 
Valley,  by  easy  grades,  and  we  soon  arrive  at 

York — 75  miles  from  tho  northern  terminus 
and  for  several  years  the  southern  end  of  the 
line,  is  an  unimportant  station  sinco  the  Utah 
Southern  has  made  its  long  move  southwu^d. 
Farther  down  the  valley,  streams  from  the 
mountains  come  in,  water  for  irrigation  can 
be  obtained,  and  the  desert,  under  the  manipu- 
lations of  labor,  is  made  to  bud  and  blossom 
as  the  rose. 

Nephi — 90  miles,  is  where  the  traveler  passes 
into  a  beautiful  and  highly  cultivated  vsdley, 
and  beholds  the  towering  form  and  giant  out- 
lines of  Mount  Nebo,  from  the  south.  It  is 
one  of  the  highest  peaks  in  the  Wahsatch 
range  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  its  lofty 
head,  whitened  by  eternal  snows,  is  frequently 
obscured  by  clouds.  The  elevation  of  the 
summit  of  this  mountain  is  given  by  the  En- 
gineer Department  of  the  United  States  Army 
at  11,922  feet  Nephi  contains  2,000  inhabit- 
ants, and  is  the  poin  t  from  which  stages  leave 
for  San  Petfa,  eighty  miles  east 

Juab — 105  miles  south  of  Salt  Lake  City. 
This  is  the  trarisfer  point  for  freight  and  pas- 
sengers destined  for  Soipio,  twenty-two  miles; 
Filunorc,  forty-seven  miles,  and  Com  Creek, 
sixty  miles  to  the  east.  Two  miles  south  of 
Juau  is  Chicken  Lake,  known  throughout 
Utah  08  affording  some  of  the  finest  duck* 
hunting  in  the  West  Deer  are  also  very 
plentiful  in  the  mountains  near  by.  At  Juan 
we  enter  the  Sevier  Desert,  and  four  miles 
south  come  to  Sevier  River.  The  desert  is 
only  fit  for  grazing,  and  the  river  a  sluggish, 
muddy  stream.  The  line  of  the  Utah  i^uth- 
em  and  Castle  Valley  RaUroad,  a  broad  gauge 
branch  of  the  Utah  Southern,  is  now  being 
finally  located  from  Juab  southeast  up  Sevier 
River  to  the  Castle  Valley  coal  fields,  eighty- 
five  miles  distant,  and  will  probably  be  biult 
before  the  close  of  1881.  The  Utah  Southern 
line  bears  to  the  southwest  from  Juab,  tapping 
several  rich  silver  and  iron  mining  districts, 
and  at  present  (June,  1881)  extends  to  Frisco, 
in  the  heart  of  the  great  Horn  silver  mining 
region,  2i2  miles  southwest  of  Salt  Lake  Ci^y. 
The  line  is  to  be  japidly  pushed  to  the  south- 
west into  southern  Nevada,  and  eventually  to 
the  Pacific  Coast.  Through  short  connecting 
stage  lines  it  already  makes  Leeds,  St.  George, 
Pioche,  and  all  points  in  southern  Utah  and 
southeastern  Nevada  easily  accessible. 


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•«t 

UEHOUUiJES  OF  SOUTHERN  UTAH. 

Over  10,000,000  pounds  of  freight  wore  sent 
northward  from  the  town  of  York  during  the 
year  187G,  and  the  south-bound  freight  trans- 
portation was  equall;)r  gratifying.  It  will  be 
very  easy  for  one  giving  attention  to  these 
matters  to  see  that  the  railway  here  already 
grasps  at  tho  wealth  and  plenty  of  the  great 
Southwest.  It  is  just  at  the  beginning  of  a 
new  and  sunnv  empire,  and  needs  but  to  cross 
to  reap  the  full  reward. 

The  people  of  Utah  seem  to  take  greatest 
pride  in  the  southern  portion  of  their  territory, 
and  firmly  believe  that  all  the  great  trade  of 
that  portion  and  of  the  best  silver  and  gold  re- 
gions of  Nevada  and  Arizona  will  flow  north- 
ward over  their  railroads  to  the  Mormon  capi- 
tal, or,  by  carrying  it  a  little  farther,  that  all  the 
southern  borders  there  will  certainly  be  made 
tributary  to  the  North  and  East  by  the  exten- 
sions or  the  Utah  Southern  Eailway,  rather 
than  to  the  western  and  southwestern  coast. 
With  sufficient  deference  to  Paciiic  slope  enter- 
prise, we  all  realize  that  the  Eastern  commercial 
centers  supply  the  continent.  Tho  greater  part 
of  merchandise,  mining  supplies,  etc.,  for  tho 
miners  of  southern  Nevada,  formerly  went  300 
miles  westward  past  Salt  Lake  City,  then  south 
by  indirect  roads,  for  from  250  to  400  miles  more. 
Instead  of  going  westward  from  Ogden  900  miles 
to  the  Paciiic  coast,  and  then  southeastward  800 
miles  more  to  the  Arizona  settlements,  by  lines 
now  established,  the  travel  or  freight  traffic 
will  turn  directlv  southward  via  the  Utah 
Central  and  Utah  Southern  Branca  of  the 
Union  Pacific,  and  reach  the  same  points  in  a 
thousand  miles  less  of  distance.  Indicatin^f 
the  directness  anl  other  natural  advantages  of 
this  route  is  the  fact  that  the  government  has 
already  established  mail  service  from  St.  George, 
in  southern  Utah,  southward  along  the  Colo- 
rado river,  to  Hardyville,  Camp  Mohave,  Eh- 
renburg,  and  Yuma,  in  Arizona. 

Large  quantities  of  cotton  are  already  pro- 
duced uuder  the  warm  skies  of  southern  Utah, 
and  manafactured  into  the  coarser  fabrics  by 
the  same,  unskilled  hands  which  till  the  fields. 
Tobacco,  rice,  almonds,  pomegranates,  figs, 
grapes,  madder  and  indigo,  wiUi  most  cereals 
and  yugetables,  are  among  other  leading  pro- 
ductions in  this  favored  clime.  The  valleys 
are  not  very  extensive,  as  a  role,  but  are  nu- 
merous and  exceedingly  fertile.  Stock-raising 
has  become  an  important  branch  of  industry. 
Washington  and  Kane  counties  are  small  king- 
doms in  themselves,  taking  up  nearly  all  the 
territory  known  as  "Southern  Utah."  They 
contain  about  fifty  towns  and  settlements, 
wliich  are  noted  for  their  fine  fruits  and  manu- 
factures of  woolen  and  cotton  yarns  and  fabrics, 
leather,  boots  and  shoes,  syrups,  wines,  raisins, 
ciwtoi  tjxd  other  oUs  and  medioiues.     About 


every  shade  of  temporaturo  and  clinlato  is 
represented  in  the  different  localities,  from 
114**  in  tho  shade  to  icicles  in  midsummer. 
Hunting  is  excellent  everywhere  in  tho  moun- 
tains, and  trout  streams  abound  in  all  sections. 
Among  the  nooks  rich  in  natural  attractions  is 
Little  Ziou  Valley,  which  lies  near  the  north 
fork  of  the  Eio  virgin  River,  and  a  few  miles 
ea|}t  of  the  St.  Georgo  Stage  Lino.  The  ad- 
mirable view  on  anotner  pago  is  only  one  of 
the  hundreds  equally  beautiful  to  be  obtained 
in  that  romantic  locality.  Kockville  and  Zion 
are  the  nearest  villages  of  note,  and  can  casUy 
be  reached  from  Bellevue  and  other  points  ou 
the  stage  road. 

Mining  along  this  southwestern  route  is  an 
industry  which  must  assume  great  proportions 
in  the  very  near  future.  Silver  ores  are  found 
in  the  mountains  on  the  right  at  almost  every 
step. 


A3IETiI€AN  FORK  CAJVUN. 

Of  this  ciuioii,  no  less  a  writer  than  the  late 
Charles  Kingsley,  Cano'i  of  the  English  Church 
in  London,  England,  has  given  the  most  enthusi 
astic  expression,  and  declares  it  •'  The  rival  of  the 
Yosemite." 

It  is  by  far  the  most  wonderful  of  all  the  canons 
which  are  within  convenient  access  to  the  Pacific 
Railroad,  and  tourists  who  value  sights  and- 

eur  and  sublime  rock  scenery,  must  no  it  it 
in  their  overland  tour.  In  interest,  bea  ,  and 
as  a  delightful  pleasure  trip,  it  will  surpass  either 
Echo,  Weber,  or  Humboldt  Canons,  and  not  a 
little  of  the  joy  is  attributable  to  the  novel  mode 
of  ascent  and  descent. 

Taking  tho  cars  of  the  Utah  Southern  Rail- 
road at  Salt  Lake  City,  proceed  southward  to 
American  Fork  Station ;  there  a  little  train  is  in 
waiting  with  .vj  ow  gauge  cars  and  locomotive. 
If  the  party  ■  '  "  ,6  enough  for  a  picnic,  so  much 
the  better,  as  often  flat  cars  are  added,  neatly 
trimmed  with  evergreen  boughs.  The  railroad, 
after  leaving  the  station  turns  directly  toward 
the  mountain  range,  and  gradually  ascends  for 
the  first  six  miles,  a  steady  gi-ade  of  200  feet  to 
the  mile,  until  just  before  the  mouth  of  the  can- 
on it  reaches  296  feet.  Nothing  can  describe  the 
apparent  desolation  of  sage  brush  and  dry  sterile 
appearance  of  the  soil,  but  here  and  th^xe  where- 
ever  the  little  mountain  brook  can  be  diverted 
from  its  course,  ard  its  water  used  to  irrigate  the 
land,  the  richest  of  Truit  trees,  grass  and  grain 
spring  up  and  give  abundant  crops.  The  little 
stream,  with  its  rapid  fall,  follows  us  up  tho 
entire  length  of  the  canon.  The  upward  ascent 
of  the  grade  seems  hardly  noticeable,  of  so  uni- 
form a  slope  is  the  surface  of  the  country,  and  ii; 
is  not  till  the  base  of  the  mountains  is  reached, 
and  the  tourist  looks  back,  he  realizes  his  height, 


'.<a 


,'.      i 


f 


IT 


lil: 


;■! 


1  I 


4  I 


SCENES  IN  AMi'RICAN  FOUK  CANON. 

Iv— lit  AspinwAlI,  or  Lone  Mountain.    2.— Rock  Summits.    3.— Picnic  Orove,  Deer  Creek. 

4.— A  quiet  Oien.   6.— Hanging  Roclt.    6.— Rocli  Narrows. 


'II    4 


FME  ^aClFW  TO^miST. 


145 


and  .s(!e!i  in  the  diHtance  the  clear  Hiirfnce  of  Utah 
Laki)  considerably  below  him.  Gathering  now 
on  the  flat  cars — where  the  scenery  can  be  best 
observed — the  little  train  slowly  enters  the  canon. 
Scarcely  500  feet  are  passed  over  before  there 
bursts  upon  the  eye  views  of  rock  scenes  of  the 
most  rugged  chariicter.  The  little  valley  is 
gearcely  UK)  feet  broad,  and  in  its  widest  part 
not  over  200  feet,  but  from  the  very  track  and  little 
stream,  the  rocks  Itmm  up  into  heights  of  start- 
ling distinctness  and  almost  jK'rpeudicular  ele- 
vation. 

The  color  of  the  rocks  is  uniformly  of  very 
dark  red  and  brown  granite,  apparently  having 
once  been  heated  in  a  terrible  turnace,  and  then 
in  melting  had  arranged  themselves  into  rugged 
and  fantastic  shape  more  than  mortal  could  con- 
ceive. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  canon,  the  rocks  aver- 
age about  800  feet  in  height,  tlxMi,  as  the  route 
ascends,  the  sides  become  more  and  more  bold 
and  erect, — the  height  greater,  and  the  summits 
sticking  up  in  jagged  ^wints  seem  like  iieaven- 
reaching  spires, — often  1,500,  2,000,  and  2,500 
feet  above  the  observer. 

No  pen  can  picture  the  sensations  of  the  ob- 
server, as  he  passes  slowly  through  these  scenes 
—which  are  constantly  shifting.  Each  turn  in 
the  road  brings  forward  some  new  view,  more 
entrancing  than  the  last, — and  on  eitiier  side, 
front  and  rear,  the  vision  is  superb  in  the  high- 
est degree.  We  could  not  term  these  scenes 
better  than  to  call  them  "  linck  Kaliiilo^cnpeK." 
For  in  this  short  distance  of  12  miles,  there  is  a 
constant  succession  of  castellated  heights,  titanic 
monstei's,  spires,  rock  mountains  of  increasing 
height,  sublitn)  form  and  piercing  altitudes, 
meeting  us,  crossing  our  path,  and  sliooting  up 
above  and  around  us  the  entire  distance, — it 
seems  like  a  succession  of  nature's  castles,  far 
more  rugged  and  pictur&sque  than  the  castle 
covered  rocks  of  the  llliine.  Itocks  of  endless 
'orm  and  I  eduty,  vistas  of  rocks,  sky  tower- 
ing summits,  bold  crags,  and  flinty  points  jut- 
ting out  from  the  mountain  sides  in  most  profuse, 
rugged,  yet  charming  positions  and  combina- 
tions, that  those  eyes  which  once  had  no  admira- 
tion for  I'ocks — here  confess  with  extreme  en- 
thusiasm, that  there  is  beauty  beyond  the  wildest 
imaginations. 

While  passing  upward,  the  train  is  very  slow, 
scarcely  passing  more  than  four  or  six  miles  per 
hour, — the  traveler  will  see  some  rocks  of  curious 
formations  at  the  left  hand,  about  one-third  of 
the  way  up;  on  the  summit  of  one  of  the 
highest  crags,  will  be  seen  a  sharivpointed  rock, 
and  in  it  a  large  distinct  hole,  throrgh  which  can 
be  seen  the  sky  beyond.  The  contrast  of  the 
daik  brown  rock,  and  the  clear  blue  of  the  sky  is 
intense.  This  is  familiarly  called  the  De'oWs 
Ei/p. 

l''arther  up,  the  track  passes  under  the  jutting 


edge  of  a  rock  mountain  with  a  sharply  cut 
alcove  in  its  base.  This  is  Iluiiiiini/  Huck — the 
roof  of  the  rock  whicli  projects  over  tlie  railroad, 
being  about  20  feet  outward. 

Near  the  upi)er  part  of  the  canon,  just  before 
reacliing  the  junction  of  two  little  valleys,  the 
track  reaches  a  huge  rock  mountain  overlooking 
a  little  wilderness  of  trees  and  vegetation,  in  the 
center  of  which  is  located  the  Old  Mill.  It  is 
now  entirely  useless,  once  used  for  sawing  timber 
and  ties  for  the  railroad,  but  though  it  has  left 
its  field  of  usefulness  behind, — it  has  remained 
to  add  a  far  more  ini|K)rtant  help  to  art.  1'he 
scene  as  viewed  in  our  illustration,  is  one  consid- 
ered the  most  lovely  and  picturesque,  not  only  of 
Mie  entire  canon,  but  also  of  all  the  Territory.  In 
all  that  grand  reach  'of  counti^,  of  2,(H)0  miles 
from  Omaha  to  the  Sierras,  not  a  single  view  is 
the  equal  of  this  delightful  scene  of  the  Old 
Af'll.  The  dense  gicwth  of  trees,  the  rippling 
wu^.er,  the  bold  rock  at  the  side,  the  soft  shades 
of  Mght  in  the  distance,  the  luxuriant  bushes 
aloi.i;  the  stream,  and  the  little  silent  deserted 
mill,  situated  exactly  in  the  most  beautiful  site, 
maki  up  a  view  which  artists  of  keenest  taste 
admit  *vith  rapture  is  unparalleled  in  l)eauty. 

Ueyo.'^d  this,  as  the  track  ascends  the  canon, 
it  is  boflered  with  more  shrubbery  and  trees, — 
and  the  rv>ck  views  partially  ceasing — the  tourist 
will  find  I's  best  vision  looking  backward,  with 
a  good  view  ->f  the  tallest  mountain  of  the  canon, 
Lone  Mouniar;  or  Mount  As/iinu'till. 

At  last  the  e^d  of  the  track  is  reached  at  Deer 
Creek;  though  I'^e  canon  continues  six  miles  or 
more  to  the  Silver  Lake  Mine.  At  Deer  Creek, 
there  is  a  little  vilbge  with  a  comfortable  iim 
and  store,  and  a  la>-ge  collection  of  charcoal 
kilns.  This  business  «s  qviite  large,  there  being 
ten  pits  of  brick,  which  reduce  each  al>out  1,100 
bushels  of  charcoal,  for  wliicl*  the  proprietor 
pets  25  centJ  per  bushe', — a  business  of  about 
$50,000  per  yesvr  is  done. 

The  Miller  Mine  has  been  estimated  exceed- 
ingly rich,  and  is  owned  'argely  by  New  York 
capitalists,  who  work  it  steauiiy.  it  is  said  to* 
yield,  with  lead,  over  fifty  ounces  of  silver  per 
ton.  The  American  Fork  Railroad  was  built 
originally  to  facilitate  the  carrying  of  ores, 
as  well  as  the  charcoal,  but  the  grandeur  of 
the  scenery  has  given  it  a  celebrity  among 
tourists,  far  beyond  that  of  any  railroad  in 
Utah. 

At  D3er  Creek  is  a  good  hotel,  The  M'^untain 
Gleu  House,  and  a  lovely  picnic  grove,  purs  spring 
water,  and  for  those  of  good  wind  and  lovers  of  ad- 
venture,— an  opportunity  for  mountain  climbing. 

The  total  length  of  the  canon  to  this  point,  is 
12  miles,  and  the  total  length  of  the  railrond,  if 
16  miles, — cost  about  $100,000,  and  the  most 
solidly  built  narrow  gauge  ra'lroad  in  the 
United  States.  The  total  ascent  in  elevation 
for  the  whole  railroad,  is  nearly  5,000  feet,  and 


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tho  average  grade  of  the  railroad  is  200  feet. 
The  maximum  grade  ia  296  feet.  This  is  tho 
stef  nest  railroad  grade  in  the  United  States. 

Tourists  who  have  enjoyed  so  fine  and  glori- 
ous a  rido  up  tho  canon  hither,  will  perliaps 
expect  that  the  return  will  be  tame.  They 
will  be  most  pleasaiitly  surprised  and  disap- 
pointed, for  it  is  the  grandest  of  all  railroad 
scenes  tfiey  will  ev^r  witness. 

Detaching  the  locomotive  from  the  train,  the 
conductor  stands  at  the  little  brake,  and  with- 
out a  signal  or  helji,  the  little  cars  of  the  train 
quietly  start  on  their  downward  jouiiioj  alone. 
Ghding  down  with  increasing  speed,  rounding 
the  curves  'vith  grand  and  swinging  motion, 
tho  breeze  fanning  your  face,  and  tho  beautiful 
pure  mountain  air  stimiilating  your  spirits  to 
the  highest  limits  of  exhilaration,  your  feelings 
and  body  are  in  an  intense  glow  of  delight,  as 
the  rock  scenes,  crags  and  mountain  heights 
come  back  again  in  <3J1  their  sublimity,  and 
your  little  car,  securely  hold,  glides  swiftly 
down  the  beautiful  valley.  J  Ji  e  o  part  of  tho 
country  is  there  a  scene  to  be  compared  witli 
this.  The  entire  being  7.s  fascinated,  and 
when,  at  last,  the  little  ox  turns  swiftly  into 
the  broad  plain,  the  tourist  feels  ho  has  left  be- 
hm<i  him  a  land  of  deli'^ht.  The  little  cars 
occupy  but  one  hour  in  making  the  descent, 
and  the  writer  has  made  the  trip  in  forty  min- 
utes. 

Note. — Sinco  the  foregoing  description  was 
written,  the  railroad  has  been  discontinued, 
but  the  tourist  can  visit  it  by  horse  from 
Amorician  Fork  or  Alta. 

Lake  Utah. — This  beautiful  sheet  of  water 
lies  K'tween  tho  Oguirrh  and  Wahsatch  ranges 
of  mountains.  These  ranges  and  their  foot 
hills  come  closely  together  between  Drapers- 
ville  Olid  Lehi,  and  the  River  Jordan  cuts 
through  them  therein  a  narrow  gorge  orcanoa. 
The  lake  and  valley  then  suddenly  burst  upon 
tho  view  of  tho  traveler,  and  admiration  p^\>W!j 
iuto  enthusiasm  as  he  contemplates  the  lovely 
picture  before  him.  Tho  lake  is  about  thirty 
nulos  long  and  six  miles  wide,  is  triangular  in 
fthnpe,  and  composed  of  fresh  water.  Its  ele- 
vation is  about  4,482  feet,  or  nearly  300  feet 
profttor  than  that  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake.  The 
railroail  goes  aroxind  the  eastern  side  of  the 
Iflko,  turning  an  obtuse  angle  at  or  iieai'  Provo. 
The  lake  is  fed  l>7  Provo  River,  American  Fork, 
Hobble,  Spanish  Fork,  Pet,eetnoet,  Salt  and  a 
few  other  small  crctka.  Its  outlet  ia  the  River 
Jordan,  which  omptiia  into  Groat  Salt  Lake, 
aud  supplies  water  for  irrigating  the  numerous 
farms  in  its  vallfly.  As  before  stated,  the  lake 
abounds  in  fish,  and  on  its  easteru  aud  northern 
sides  has  a  lar^e  quantity  of  arable  land.  Its 
wostflm  shoi-e  is  not  very  well  wuteretl,  onl^ 
ono  or  two  little  creeka  putting  down  into  it 
from  the  Oquirrh  ruug<^  of  mouDCoiua.    It  is 


well  worthy  of  a  visit  from  tho  tourist  or 
sportsman. 

The  Utah  Western  Bail  road.— Ihia 
road  was  first  chartered  on  tho  15th  of  June, 

1874,  with  a  capital  stock  of  8900,000.  The 
company  was  mostly  composed  of  Utah  men 
having  their  residence  in  Salt  Lake  City;  John 
W.  Young,  a  son  ot  Brigham  Young,  being 
President,  while  Heber  P.  Kimball  was  Superin- 
tendent. It  has,  however,  recently  passed  into 
the  hands  of  the  Utah  Central,  and  will  hence- 
forth be  operated  aa  a  branch  of  that  line. 
Tho  same  year  it  was  chartered,  twelve  miles 
were  completed  and  opened  for  business  on  the 
12th  day  of  December,  and  on  the  Ist  of  April, 

1875,  it  was  completed  to  Half- Way  House, 
thirteen  miles  farther.  Another  extension  of 
fourteen  miles  was  completed  in  1877.  This 
last  extension  carried  the  road  to  within  one 
and  a  half  miles  of  Stockton,  a  prosperous 
mining  town  on  the  western  slope  of  the 
Oquin'h  range  of  mountains.  Its  business  on 
thirty-seven  miles  of  completed  road  for  1880 
was  as  follows:  Freigh  .s  received,  10.781,854 
lbs.;  freights  forwarded,  7,958,839  lbs.  It 
carried  25,000  passengers  in  1880,  of  which 
20,000  vero  visitors  to  its  principal  resort. 
Lake  Point.  It  ia  a  narrow-gauge  road  (tbree 
feet),  and  has  prospects  for  en  extensive  Imsi- 
ness  in  the  future.  Its  general  route  is  west- 
ward until  it  passes  the  southernmost  point  of 
the  Great  Salt  Lake,  and  then  southward  along 
the  western  base  of  the  Oquirrh  range,  and 
into  the  rich  mining  districts  which  have  been 
developed  on  the  woGtem  slope  of  tnoso  moun- 
tains. Leaving  Salt  Lako  City,  on  a  heavy 
downward  gratle  of  ninety -five  feet  to  the  mile, 
but  which  is  short,  the  road  crosses  tho  River 
Jordan  on  a  common  pUe  bridge.  Near  the 
outskirts  of  the  city,  the  road  enters  a  stretch 
of  uncultivated  prairie  t\»  elve  miles  wide  by 
about  fifty  long.  Herds  of  cattle  and  sheep 
alone  utilize  these  rich  bottom  lands,  as  some- 
thing has  prevented  such  a  lavish  use  of  water 
for  irrigation  as  we  saw  almost  everywhere  else 
in  the  Territory.  We  were  informed  that  canals 
could  easily  bo  led  from  Utali  Lake,  or  the  Jor- 
dan, over  all  this  broatl  area,  and  no  doubt  such 
enterprises  will  soon  be  under  way.  This  plain 
or  flat,  sometimes  thickly  covered  with  sage 
brush,  is  the  ''  jack  "  rabbit's  paradise.  About 
every  sage  busu  claims  its  rabbit,  or  vice^ersa. 

MUMotie  Point  is  near  the  base  of  the 
mountains,  and  eleven  and  a  half  miloa  from 
Salt  Lako  City.  This  pla<'o  ia  named  from  tho 
fact  that  the  first  miUstones  used  in  "rinding 
grain  in  Utah  wore  quarried  from  the  moun- 
tains near  this  point.  The  old  overltuad  stage 
road  from  Salt  Lake  City  to  California  passes 
along  the  line  of  the  road,  as  does  one  lino  of  the 
Western  Union  Telograpli  Co.  to  the  present  tor- 
minus  of  the  road.    The  station  is  of  no  partic- 


le n 


i'i 


148 


rs!" 


hi 


ular  iiiijxM'tance,  air.  beyond  the  incident  men- 
tioned, IS  witliunt  a  liistory.  We  are  now  at  tlie 
base  of  tlie  Oquinii  Kange,  and  tlie  first  station 
of  the  Old  Stage  Company  where,  tliey  changed 
horses  is  pointed  out  to  the  traveler  on  the  south 
side  of  Jia  road.  Beyond  Millstone  Point,  about 
two  miles  on  the  south  side  of  tlie  track,  is  a 
large  spring,  which  furnishes  a  good  supply  of 
water,  and  which  has  been  utilized  by  a  dairy- 
man. A  little  beyond  this  spring  on  the  same 
sida  of  the  track,  there  is,  in  the  first  point  of 
rocks,  quite  an  extensive  cave  which  a  shepherd 
uses  as  a  sh  ^Itir  fc"  Kis  sheep,  during  the  inclem- 
ent season  of 
the  year.  A  rail 
fence  with  gate 
Burroimds  the 
entrance  to  the 
cave,  and  it  is 
said  to  be  large 
enough  to  turn  a 
four  horse  team 
and  wagon  with- 
o  u  t  ditiiculty. 
Tlia  extent  of 
the  outer  part  of 
the  cave  is  about 
40  feet  where  a 
huge  fallen  rock 
precludes  fur- 
theracce.ss  with- 
out inconven- 
ience. The  lake 
and  its  mount- 
ain islands,  and 
tha  ranges  be- 
yond, now  come 
grandly  into 
view  on  the 
north  side  of 
the  track. 
The  next  sta- 
tion is 

Jilnck  Roekf 
—17  1-2  miles 
from  Salt  Lake 
C  i  t  y, — a  s  t  a  - 
♦io.i  nant'^d  from 
a  rock,  dark 
enough  to  be  called  black, 
alraut   100  yards   from   the 


UUKS  BEAD  ttUVK.— GBBAT  HALT  LAKE. 


I 


|i    i 

i'.i  . 


rising  in  the  lake 
shore.  It  is  nearly 
flat  on  the  ton,  and  with  a  little  effort  can  be 
easily  ascended.  Jutting  out  from  the  shore, 
and  a  short  distance  from  the  station,  is  "  Lion's 
II  sad"  Rock.  Beyond  this  is  "Observation 
Point,"  from  which  the  Goose  Creek  Mountaiiis, 
115  miles  north,  can  be  .seen  in  a  clear  day,  with 
th 'ir  white  p^aks  glistening  in  the  sunlight. 
The  northern  |x»int  of  the  ()quirrh  Range  here 
com'ss  close  to  the  lake,  and  what  seems  to  be  a 
few  scattering  trees,  or  groves  of  trees,  high  up 
ou  the  mouutaiu,  contain  millions  of  feet  of  pine 


lumber,  if  it  could  only  be  made  available. 
Right  under  "  Observation  Point,"  on  the  very 
edge  of  the  lake  shore  stands  a  stone  house, 
foiinerly  kept  as  a  hotel  for  ])leasure  seekers,  but 
now  the  jTivate  property  of  John  W.  Yoinig, 
Esq.  Whoever  occupies  it  hereafter,  can  very 
nearly  be  "  rocked  in  the  cradle  of  the  deep,"  or, 
at  least,  be  lulled  tt)  sleep  by  the  mnnnur  of  ti  e 
restless  waves.  Standing  upon  "Observation 
Point"  before  yon,  a  little  to  the  left  "ses  tliC 
rock  from  which  the  station  is  named;  beyord 
and  to  the  left  still,  Kiinbairs  Island  rises  out  >  if 
the  sea  twenty-two  miles  away;  while  oif  to  tlie 

right  is  Chunh 
Island,  14  miles 
away :  they  do 
not  look  half  tlie 
distance,  bit 
the  rarified  iit- 
in  o  s  p  h  e  L"  e  ot 
these  elevated 
(wrtions  of  the 
Continent  is 
very  deceptive 
as  regards  vision 
and  distance. 
P  r  o  111  o  n  t  o  r  j 
Point  on  the 
north  shore 
of  the  lake  ii 
also  visible  at  a 
distance  of 
altout  eighty 
miles. 

Lake  Poitit, 
— 20  miles  fnnii 
the 'city  is  tii'? 
next  station  ami 
the  great  resmt 
for  excursion 
jiarties  and  tofir- 
ists  in  the  sum- 
mer. Near  tins 
station  is  "(;i- 
ant's  Cave"  from 
which  stalactites 
may  be  obtain- 
ed, and  otlior 
relics,  said  to  be 
remains  of  Indians  who  were  conquered  and 
j>enned  in  until  they  died.  A  personal  exam- 
ination will  satisfy  the  tourist  as  to  the  proh.i- 
ble  truth  of  this  tradition.  The  company  has  u 
large  hotel  at  Lake  Point  containing  35  rooms 
for  guests,  besides  other  necessarv  appurtenances 
to  a  good  hotel.  A  wharf  has  been  built  inlo 
the  lake,  beside  which,  when  not  employed,  tiie 
stern  wheel  steamer,  "  General  Garfield,"  is 
moored.  This  steamer  is  employed  for  excur- 
sion parties  and  for  transporting  ore  from  tl'S 
islands,  and  the  west  side  of  the  lake,  to  tlio 
railroad.     A  batliing-liouse  uas  been  erected  ou 


14^ 


tlie  wharf,  where  conveniences  for  a  salt  water 
bath  are  kept.  The  watei-s  of  the  lake  are  very 
dwise,  and  it  is  almost  impossible  for  bathere  to 
sink.  In  former  times  tnree  barrels  of  water 
would  make  by  evaporation,  one  barrel  of  salt ; 
now  four  barrels  of  water  are  required  to  effect 
the  same  result.  A  company  has  been  organized 
ill  Salt  Lake  City,  to  manufacture  salt  from  the 
waters  of  this  lake  near  Millstone  Point,  and 
vats  are  to  be  erected  the  present  year.  An  ex- 
cellent quality  can  be  made  and  sacked— ready 
for  market  ^or  $4.50  per  ton. 

Half- Way  Hau8e—25  miles  from  Salt 
Lake  City,  and  Tooele  Station  37  miles  ore 
tli3  next  stations  and  termini  of  the  road. 
(Srantville  is  ono  of  tho  richest  agricultural 
t>>wn3  of  Utah.  Stages  leave  hero  for  tho  min- 
iii'?  camps  on  tlio  western  slope  of  the  moun- 
t:.in8,  and  a  large  amount  of  freighting  is  done, 
with  teams  to  and  from  the  mines.  Tho 
station  may  loso  its  importance  at  no  very 
far  distant  date.  There  are  large  springs 
ot  fresh  water  near  the  station,  which  sup- 
ply a  flourinf?  mill  and  _  woolen  factory 
With  powor.  On  the  left  side  of  the  track, 
b.iforo  you  reach  tho  station,  is  "  E.  T. 
City " — the  initials  being  thoso  of  E.  T. 
Benson,  who  was  interested  in  tho  town. 
It  is  simply  a  settlement  of  Mori  far- 
mers, nestled  under  tho  mountains.  >  ho 
woolon  factory  alluded  to  is  a  long,  low 
stone  structure,  with  approved  modem  ma- 
chinery, about  ono  ancl  three-fourth  miles 
from  tho  station,  north  of  tho  track.  This 
routo  must  prove  very  attractive  to  trav- 
clci-H,  and  one  which  will  amply  reward 
them  in  tho  pleasures  it  will  afford. 
The  rich  mining  districts  of  Bush  Valley, 
Ophir  and  others,  oro  reached  by  tlus  line 
of  road. 

Soaial  Life  A  inong  tlie  Mortnontf. — Be- 

y.tiid  the  limits  of  Salt  I^ake  City  the  uniform 
character  of  Mormon  families  is  of  exceeding 
jilaiii  ways  of  liviiijj,  almost  all  being  of  very 
modest  means,  and  even  poor.  What  the  better 
fitiiiilieH  have  gained  has  been  by  the  hardest 
and  most  persistent  lalmr.  It  is  said  that  when 
the  city  was  first  settled,  there  was  not  found 
over  i|l,000  in  cash  for  the  whole  community, 
ami  for  a  long  series  of  years  thereafter  money 
was  little  used,  and  the  people  lived  and  paid  for 
tliMir  wants  by  barter,  and  a  writer  facetiously 
nays :  "  A  farmer  wishes  to  purchase  a  pair  of 
siioHs  for  his  wife.  He  consults  the  shoemaker, 
who  avei-s  his  willingness  to  furnish  the  same  for 
oiiH  load  of  wood.  He  has  no  wood,  but  sells  a 
calf  for  a  quantity  of  a(lofie-<,  the  a.'«iAe<  for  an 
Older  on  the  inerchaut,  payable  in  goods,  and  the 
gooils  and  the  order  for'  a  load  of  wood,  and 
straightway  the  matron  is  shod. 
"Seven  water-melons  purchased  the  price  of  a 


ticket  of  admission  to  the  theater.  He  paid  for 
the  tuition  of  his  chikl.en,  seventy-five  cabliages 
jier  quarter.  The  die.ssijiiiker  received  lor  her 
services,  four  squashes  per  day.  He  settled  his 
church  dues  in  sorghum  molasses.  Two  loads  of 
pumpkins  paid  his  annual  subscription  to  the 
newspaper.  He  bought  a  ^ 'heat he  on  C'llmial 
Murriaije '  for  a  load  of  gravel,  and  a  bottle  of 
soothing  syrup  lOi*  the  baby,  with  a  busl^^l  of 
string  beans." 

In  this  way,  before  the  advent  of  the  railroad, 
fully  nine-tenths  of  the  business  of  the  Mormon 
people  was  conducted.  Now  barter  has  given 
place  to  actual  circulation  of  money. 

While  there  is  not  what  may  be  called  dis> 
tress  or  abject  poverty  in  any  part  of  the  Mor- 
mon settlements,  yet  with  ma'  y,  esjiecially  the 
new  emigrants,  their  means  are  so  limited,  and 
the  labor  so  hard,  it  would  be  exceedingly  dis- 
couraging to  exist,  but  for  the  t/rai'd  cunfiilence 
all  have  in  the  joys  to  come  promised  by  their 
religion  and  their  leader. 

Lxcept  in  the  cities  there  is  little  or  no  form 
of  amusement,  and  the  Sabbath  is  mainly  the 
great  day  of  reunion,  when  the  (topulation  turn 
out  en  masse  to  the  Tabernacle  or  other  places  of 
worship. 

In  the  church  services  no  one  knows,  until  (he 
speaker  arises,  who  is  to  preach  fiom  the  pulpit, 
or  what  may  be  the  subject. 

The  sulijects  of  sermr  lis  iv  ,,lreF.ees  and*  exhor- 
tations ail'  €as  wide  as  tin  arc  books.  A  wiiter 
ha.  iauphingly  said  :  "  in  the  Great  Tabernacle, 
one  win  hcarsermf'  ",cr  advice  on  thecultuieof 
sorghum,  upon  infant  bapli.-m,  ui>on  the  l>e.<t 
manure  for  cabbages,  upon  the  perseverance  of 
the  Saints,  upon  the  w  kef1iic.<s  of  skininiiiig 
milk  before  its  sale,  upon  tlie  best  method  of 
cleaning  watP'  ditches,  upon  bed-hug  )K)i8on, 
upon  the  pricv-  of  real  estate,  upon  teething  in 
'children,  upon  th^  martyrs  and  persecutions  of 
the  Church,  terrible  denunciations  of  (ientiles 
and  the  enemies  of  t'  Mormons,  upon  olive  oil 
as  a  cure  for  ni'  i  uimn  the  ordination  of  the 
priesthood,  uiwi.  ue  cnaracter  of  Melchisedec, 
upon  worms  in  dried  peaches,  upon  abstinence 
from  plug  tobacco,  upon  the  crime  of  foeticide, 
unon  chignons,  twenty-five-yard  dresses,  upon 
plural  marriages,  etc." 

Portions  of  this  are  doubtless  the  extrava- 
gance of  humor,  yet  it  is  true  every  possible 
thing,  secular  or  spiritual,  is  discussed  from  the 
pulpit  which  the  president  thinks  necessary  for 
the  instruction  of  the  flock.  We  attended  pe^ 
sonally  one  Sunday  a  Sunday-school  celebration 
in  the  Tabernacle,  where  the  ex?rcis»>s  were  en- 
livened with  a  spirit'd  d"liverv  of  *^ Mnrcn  liuz- 
am'H."  ^^ G'ltf  !'«»/  g  lo  Itimni;'  the  sinirinv  of 
"Home.  Sweet  Honic,"  and  the  gallf-ry  fronts 
were  decorated  with  gav  mottoes,  of  which  there 
shone  in  great  prominence,  •'  U tali's  *«»/  c^op, 
children." 


■  f  ■*■»•■ 


w 


i  1 


M 


t 


^1' 


: 


^-- 


■&■ 


Mm  \ 
ill'  ' ' 


REPRESENTATIVE  MORMONS. 

J.—-^^.  Wootlrufl.    2 John  Taylor.    3.— Mayor  Dmilel  II.  Welli.    4.— W.  H.  Hooper.    B -rrodiltiit  Urlglam  Vounj. 

6.— OrBon  Pratt.    7.— John  SIuutd.    8.— Oeorge  Q.  Canaon.    8.— Onxiii  llyUu. 


Idl 


''1 


Tlie  city  Mormons  are  fond  of  the  theater  and 
dancing,  and  as  their  president  is  both  the  owner 
of  the  theater  and  its  largest  patron,  tiie  Saints 
coiisid  "  his  example  highly  judicious  and  ex- 
emplary, so  the  theater  is  crowded  on  all  occa- 
sions. VVe  were  present,  on  one  occasion,  in  IbGO, 
when  we  witnessed  over  thirty  of  the  children  of 
OU3  of  the  Mormons  sitting  in  a  row  in  the 
Ji-  >83  circle,  and  the  private  boxes  filled  with  his 
vt'wua.  The  most  striking  event  of  the  evening 
was  when  one  of  the  theatrical  performers  sung 
tills  ditty : 

"  It  Jim  Flak's  rat-and-tan,  should  have  a  bull-dog  pnp, 
Ih)  you  think  Louis  Napoleon  would  try  to  bring  him  up  ?  " 

This  elicited  tremendous  applause,  and  the  per- 
formers, much  to  their  own  laughter  and  aston- 
ishment, had  to  repeat  it. 

A.  few  years  afterward,  in  witnessing  a  large 
body  of  Mormon  children  singing  their  school 
songs — we  noticed  the  end  of  one  of  their  little 
verses : 

"Oh,  bow  happy  T  ought  to  bo, 
For,  daddy,  I'ui  a  Mormon." 

As  justifying  their  amusements,  the  Saints 
thus  say,  through  one  of  their  authorities  : 

"  Dancing  is  a  diversion  for  which  all  men  and 
women  have  a  natural  fondness." 

Dancing  parties  in  the  city  are,  therefore,  quite 
t"re<iueut,  and  the  most  religious  man  is  best  en- 
titled to  the  biggest  amount  of  fun.  Uence 
their  religion  should  never  be  dull. 

"As  all  people  have  a  fondness  for  dramatic 
representations,  it  is  well  to  so  regulate  and  gov- 
«!rn  such  exhibitions,  that  they  may  be  instructive 
and  purifying  in  their  tendencies.  If  the  best 
))  ople  absent  themselves,  the  worst  will  dictate 
tha  character  of  the  exercises." 

Therefore  every  good  Mormon,  who  can  get  a 
liltle  money,  indulges  in  the  theater. 

The  Uelifflou  of  the  Moi'moin*.-  t  is 
n- 1  the  purpose  of  this  Guide  to  express  opin- 
io as  of  tlie  religious  aspect  of  Mormonism;  but, 
ai(  all  visitors  who  come  from  the  East,  seeking 
lii'.hiir  from  curiosity  to  gain  reliable  information, 
1)1,  having  prejudices,  expect  to  gratify  them 
with  outbursts  of  indignation,  we  can  only  stand 
uliiof,  and  explain,  calmly  and  candidly,  a  few 
facts  as  we  have  found  tnem  by  actual  contact 
and  experience  with  both  Mormons  and  Gen- 
tiles, and  leave  each  reader  to  judge  for  himself 
ILe  nuM-its  of  this  vexed  question. 

So  thoroughly  and  implicitly  have  the  masses 
of  the  Mormon  people  been  l<'d  by  their  leader, 
tliat  no  one  must  be  surprisi'  lo  find  that  they 
iin^  film  believers  and  ""bediint  servants  to  all 
i.i»e  doctrines  and  orders  oi  the  Church.  They  he- 
liiTK  jmt  as  ihei/are  told. 

whatever,  thorcfore,  there  is  in  their  life, 
iliaracter  and  business,  industry  and  enterprise, 
lliat  is  good  and  |!rais«'worthy.  to  Hrijrhr.m  Young, 
til  'ir  l(!adcr,  belongs  the  credit,  liut  for  what- 
ever tliere  is  wicked  in  their  religion,  life,  faith, 


deeds  and  church  work — and  for  whatever  is 
lacking  in  good,  to  the  same  powerful  mind  and 
willful  hand,  belongs  the  fearful  responsibility. 

Whether  Mormonism  be  a  religion  or  not— 
yet  candor  must  confess,  that  if  it  fails  to  give 
and  preserve  peace,  contentment,  purity ;  if  it 
niakes  its  followers  ignorant,  brutal,  supeisti- 
tious,  jealous,  abusive,  defiant;  if  it  lack  gi  n- 
tleness,  meekness,  kindness,  courtesy ;  if  it  brings 
to  its  homes,  sadness  and  discontent,  it  cannot  be 
that  true  religion,  which  exists  alone  by  sincere 
trust  in  Christ  and  loce  for  heaven.  If  in  all  its 
doctrines,  services,  sermons,  prayers,  praise  and 
church  work,  it  fails  to  give  the  soul  that  seeks 
after  rest,  the  refreshing,  comforting  peace  it 
needs,  it  cannot  be  everlasting. 

Mormoni.m  has  accomplished  much  in  in* 
dustry.  and  perseverance,  in  reclaiming  Utah's 
waste  lands  and  barren  plains.  It  has  opened  a 
country,  which  now  is  teeming  with  rich-s  inex- 
haustible and  untold  wealth  fs  coming  to  a 
scene,  once  the  very  type  ol  desolation.  We 
give  to  the  Mormons  every  worthy  praise  for 
their  frugality,  temperance  and  hard  labor.  No 
other  class  of  people  would  have  settled  here. 
By  patience  they  have  reclaimed  a  desert, — peo- 
pled a  waste,  developed  hidden  treasures,  have 
grown  in  thrift,  and  their  lives  bear  witness  to 
their  forbearance,  and  complete  trust  and  faith. 

How  The  Mormon  thurch  Itiputtnes 
Vinitors. — The  system  of  polygamy  is  not  the 
only  great  question  which  affects  the  future  of 
Utah.  More  than  all  things  else,  it  is  the  P»u-ei 
ofihe  Rulers  of  the  Mormon  Church.  It  is  natural 
that  they  should  make  efforts  to  maintain  it  by 
every  use  of  jww  "s ;  gentleness  if  that  will  do  the 
work,  coercion  if  iiot. 

It  irf  unfortunate  that  in  the  spiritual  services 
of  the  Church,  they  fail  to  impress  visitors  with 
proper  respect.  Their  sermons,  all  eastern 
travelers  have  uniformly  admitted,  were  rcniaik- 
able  in  the  absence  of  spiritual  j)ower.  The 
simple  truths  of  the  Gospel  rarely  ever  are  dis- 
cussed, the  life  of  Christ,  the  Gosjiel  of  the  New 
Testament,  the  "  Sci  inon  on  the  Mount " — the 
Cross  are  a)'  ignored, — the  Psalms  of  David,  the 
life  of  Daniel,  Solomon,  and  the  work  of  the 
twelve  Apostles  are  rarely  referred  to;  instead, 
visitors  are  compelled  to  liscen  to  long  aigu- 
ments  justifying  Mormonism  and  plural  mar 
riage,  and  expressions  of  detestation  for  theii 
enemies. 

VVe  heard  three  of  the  elders  talk  at  one  of 
their  Sabbath  incetings,  during  whicn  the  name 
of  tlesus  Christ  as  the  Saviour  of  the  world,  was 
scarcely  mentioned.  One  talked  of  the  wonder- 
ful conversion  as  he  claimed,  and  bapti-ni  of 
some  Luiiianitos  (Indians),  not  one  of  whim  to- 
day, can  give  a  sinule  inti'ilijr<'tit  reason  Itn  tlf 
course  he  has  adojted.  Aiiotlicr  told  of  the 
time  lit!  was  a  local  p'eacluT  in  the  East,  of  the 
Methodist  Church,  and  of  the  trials  and  persecu- 


H. 


^.H 


lilvnl  Driitharo  Youn^ 


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152 


TMM  PitCI^IC  TOMtiST. 


S«.  ^ 


tion  thev  had  endured  there.  The  third  was 
quite  belligereut  in  tone,  and  gave  utterance  to 
what  might  possibly  be  interpreted  a.s  treasonable 
sentiments  as^ainst  ths  government  of  the  United 
Stiitea.  In  the  meantiin '  tha  audience  accepted 
nil  that  was  said  with  ,  parent  relish.  We 
thought  of  the  saying  oi  r  le  of  the  popular 
humorists  of  the  day,  to  the  effect  that  "  if  that 
kind  of  preaching  Muils  that  kinU  of  people,  it  is 
J'ist  the  kind  of  preachinq  that  kind  of  people 
likes."  Their  preachers  will  often  take  a  text 
from  the  sayings  of  the  prophets,  and  give  it  a 
literal  iutei-pretatiou  that  would  grate  harshly 
upon  orthodox  ears,  while  tha  listener  would  be 
amused  at  the  ingenuity  displayed  in  twist- 
ing the  word  of  God— niAing  it  maan  anything 
desired. 

It  is  exceedino'ly  unfortunate  for  the  cause  of 
the  Mormons,  that  such  exhibitions  of  nature 
are  inaJe,  the  only  result  of  which  is  to  increase 
the  prejudice  of  all  visitors,  and  tend  to  grad- 
ually change  tli;  minis  of  those  who  would 
gladly  be  cordial,  but  feel  thiy  can  not.  We 
sp'jalc  in  candor;  tha  etfijacy  of  a  religion  is 
judged  by  its  purity  of  life  and  apaech.  A  true 
religion  wins  adniimtion  from  even  its  enemies. 
But  Mormouisni  seems  never  to  have  made  a 
friend  of  an  euiiny,  and  only  returns  even 
deeper  resentment. 

A  religion  which  does  not  do  as  Christ  com- 
manded, "  Prqif  fir  them  which  p"rnecute  you, 
bleM  an'l  curte  not," — but  treasures  its  resent- 
ments and  fulminates  its  curses  continually — can 
it  be  any  religion  at  all  ? 

lucouHlnfeacies.  —  Another  circumstance, 
one  very  unfortunate  for  the  Mormons,  and  al- 
ways noticed  by  strangers,  is  the  inconsistency 
of  their  history. 

In  the  original  revelation  to  Joseph  Smith, 
there  was  not  only  no  mention  of  polygamy,  but 
in  thi  Book  of  Mormon,  such  a  practice  was 
fiercely  denounced.  In  the  second  chapter  of  the 
Book  of  Mormon,  there  originally  appeared  this 
warning  to  the  Nephites: 

"  Wherefore,  hearken  unto  the  word  of  the  Lord, 
for  there  shidl  not  any  man  amonq  yon  hane  save  V. 
be  one  wife ;  and  concubine*  he  fhull  have  none ; 
for  I  the  Lord  God,  dtlighteth  in  the  chastity  of 
womtn  " 

The  following  comments  and  arguments  based 
on  the  above,  seem  absolutely  necessary,  and  im- 
possible for  any  one  to  controvert : 

1.  If  Joseph  Smith  wrote  this  under  thn  inspira- 
tion  of  the  Holy  Spirit,  then  present  Mormnn  prac- 
tice* and  doctrines,  being  wholy  different,  are  not 
true  nor  worthy  of  confidt-nce. 

2.  If  Joseph  Smi  h  did  not  write  this  under  the 
inapiraiion  of  the  Almighty,  then  Joreph  Smith  did 
not  nc'ipe  a  true  rerela'ion,  was  not  a  true  /'rophet, 
and  what  he  has  written  has  been  entirely  unworthy 
the  confidence  of  his  people. 

3.  If  Mcrmonism  since  then  has  found  a  new 


revelation  totally  opposed  to  the  first,  then  the  first 
must  have  been  false. 

4.  Jf  the  first  revelation  was  fidse,  then  the 
Bonk  of  Morm>n  U  wholly  false  and  unrtliuble,  and 
Joseph  Smith  was  an  impostor. 

5.  //  I  he  first  tevelalion  was  true,  then  (as  the 
decrefs  of  the  Almighty  once  given,  never  change), 
the  second  revelation  is  not  true,  nor  ever  was  in- 
npiiedbii  (Jod. 

(i.  As  History  proves  that  Joseph  Smith  received 
and  promulgated  lioih  the  first  and  second  n  vela- 
tions — us  one  of  these  must  be  false — os  no  Prophet 
could  ever  be  falsely  led,  if  in-'tructed  by  the  Al- 
migh'y — it  follows  that  Josrph  Smih  never  received 
a  true  iiispiratiiin,  was  not  a  true  Prophet — ihcA 
Monwrnism  is  not  a  revciled  religion. 

Another  inconsistency,  fatal  to  the  claims  of 
the  Mormon  religion,  is  tlje  curious  act  of  Joseph 
Smith  at  Nnnvoo.  On  the  12th  of  July,  Ibia, 
Smith  received  the  new  revelation.  When  it 
was  first  mentioned,  it  caused  great  coniniotion, 
and  many  rebelled  against  it.  A  few  elders  at- 
tempted to  pronnilgate  it,  but  so  fieice  was  (lie 
opjwsition  that  at  last,  for  peace,  Smith  ofhciiilly 
made  public  proclntnatiou  against  it  iu  the 
Church  paper  as  follows  : 

Notice. 

As  we  have  lately  baen  credibly  informed 
that  on  elder  of  tho  Church  of  Jesus  Christ  of 
Latter  Day  Saints,  by  tho  name  of  Hiram 
Brown,  has  been  preaching  polygamy  and  other 
falbo  and  corrupt  doctrines  in  the  County  of 
Lapocr  and  Stato  of  Michigan. 

This  is  to  notify  him,  and  tho  Church  in  gen- 
eral, that  he  has  been  cut  ofT  from  tho  Church 
for  his  iniqiiity,  and  he  is  further  notified  to 
appear  at  the  special  conference  on  the  Gth  of 
April  next,  to  make  answer  to  these  charges. 

h™  is  I  ^'"'^'"'^  '/'^'  ^^"'•^^- 

Query. —  What  is  the  world  to  think  of  a 
religio't,  or  a  pi-ople,  when  tiuir  Prophet  falsifies 
his  own  record,  and  denies  his  own  revela- 
tion f 

Subsequent  history  shows  that  in  less  than 
three  years  from  the  publication  of  the  alH)ve 
notice," the  Mormon  leaders  were  living  in  optii 
and  luidisguised  jwlygamy. 

Would  a  Pro/diet  who  fver  received  a  true  rev  lo- 
tion deny  it,  punish  his  followers  for  observing  it,  and 
then  praciice  it  for  himself? 

How  appropriately  the  answer  is  given  to  tliis 
question  when  one  takes  up  the  Mormon  Ilynm 
Book,  and  finds  among  its  verses,  used  in  tlu'ir 
church  services,  the  following  leading  lines : 

1.  "  Tlie  OotI  tliat  others  worsliip  is  not  the  Oo«{  for  me." 

2.  "  A  chua-h  witliout  h  Prophet  ts  not  the  church  for  iiiiv" 
8.  "  A  church  without  Apostles  1^  not  Jiio  churcli  for  nui." 
4.  "  The  ho(>e  tlmt  Oeiilllfs clu-rtsli  In  n"t  tlie  liojie  t'V  m>\" 

"  It  hiks  no  fiillli  nor  linowletlge ;  fur  from  it  I  would  \w." 
6.    "  The  heaven  of  sectarians  U  not  the  heaven  for  me." 


TMM  ff^mFi€  roifmisw. 


-.  r. 


153 


first,  then  the  first 

was  false,  then  the 
e  and  uurdiuble,  and 

IS  true,  then  (as  the 
iven,  never  change), 
le,  nor  ever  was  in- 

oneph  Smith  received 
ami  second  n  vela- 
false — OS  no  Prophet 
n>tructed  by  the  Al- 
iSmih  never  received 
;  irue  Prophet — thai 
eliyion. 

al  to  the  claims  of 
iirious  act  of  Joseph 
12th  of  July,  1«»3, 
vt'lation.  uhen  it 
d  great  com  mot  ion, 
,.  A  few  alders  at- 
Lit  so  fierce  was  I  lie 
■ace,  Smith  otticiiilly 
ayainst    it    in    the 


credibly  informed 
of  Jesus  Christ  of 
3  name  of  Hiram 
)olygamy  and  other 
in  the 'County  of 
m. 

the  Church  in  gen* 
'  from  tho  Church 
urthor  notified  to 
ence  on  the  Gth  of 

0  these  charges. 

s  of  the  Church. 

trld  to    think  of  a 

ir  Prophet  falsifies 

',s    his    own    revela- 

that  in  less  than 
ation  of  the  above 
irere  living  in  open 

tceived  a  trufi  rcvla- 

1  for  observing  it,  and 

wer  is  given  to  this 
he  Mormon  llynm 
erses,  used  in  tln'ir 
leading  lines : 

not  t)ie  God  for  me." 
not  I  lie  church  for  uw." 
ot  iho  church  for  nw" 
Isnot  llieho|>e  f-r  nn'." 
(iir  from  It  I  wouUI  l>t:.' 
;  the  heaven  for  nie." 


mm 

o 


^ 


'i    > 


S 

9 


it 


km 

m 


154 


rjfjr  ^siCiFic  romnBr. 


Ifn 


;        I 


if 


i 


w 


27tc  Oreat  Salt  Lake  stretches  off  north- 
vrard  eighty  miles,  is  about  fifty  miles  wide, 
and  lies  4,200  feet  above  the  ocean.  The  Otjnirrh 
mountains  rise  high  above  the  hotel  just m  the 
rear ;  the  west  mountain  range  borders  the  lake 
on  the  west,  and  far  along  the  northeast  shore 
runs  the  grand  Wahsatch  range.  Promontory 
mountains  jut  far  out  into  the  lake  from  the 
north,  the  whole  forming  a  shore-line  of  singu- 
lar beauty  and  ma^iflcence.  Antelope,  Stems- 
bury,  Hat,  Qnnnison,  Kimball's,  Carrington, 
and  Church  are  the  principal  islands.  The 
mountains  in  some  of  wese  appear  to  belong  to 
the  same  ranges  which  form  the  shore-line,  and 
nearly  all  contain  deposits  of  either  the  precious 
or  base  metals. 

In  many  respects  this  is  the  most  wonderful 
body  of  water  on  the  American  Continent.  It  is 
the  chief  object  of  interest  in  the  phyHical  geog- 
raphy of  the  great  basin  in  which  it  is  located. 
Its  waters  are  saline  and  bi-ackish,  unfit  for  use, 
and  uninhabited  by  i-epreseutatives  of  the  finny 
tribes. 

Itg  Diftcovery, — In  his  report  on  this  lake, 
Captain  Stausbury  speaks  of  a  French  explorer, 
with  ail  unpronounceable  name,  who  left  the  west- 
em  shores  of  the  great  lakes  sometime  in  the 
seventeenth  century,  and  pi-oceeded  westward  for 
an  undefined  period,  and  made  extensive  discov* 
eries  on  the  Mississippi,  Missouri,  and  other 
western  rivers,  and  either  saw,  or  heard  from  the 
Indians,  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake.  His  accounts, 
however,  are  somewhat  mixed,  and  not  at  all  sat- 
isfactory. It  is  reported  that  John  Jacob  Astor 
fitted  out  an  expedition,  in  1820,  to  cross  the 
Continent,  meet  a  vessel  he  had  sent  round  Cape 
Horn,  and  at  some  point  on  the  Pacific  Coast, 
form  a  town  which  should  be  to  it  what  New 
York  was  to  the  Atlantic  Coast,  the  greatest 
commercial  emporium  of  that  part  of  the  country. 
This  expedition,  it  is  said,  crossed  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  near  Fremont's  Peak  in  the  Wind 
Kiver  Range,  and  after  reaching  the  Tetons  sep- 
arated into  small  parties,  each  one  exploring  on 
its  own  account.  One  of  these,  consisting  of 
four  men  and  commanded  by  a  Mr.  Miller, 
hunted  around  the  vicinity  of  Snake  River  and 
the  Soda  Springs,  finally  crossing  into  Cache 
Valley,  a  little  north-west  of  Corinne.  It  is  fur- 
ther reported  that  Miller,  in  one  of  his  rambles, 
ascended  the  mountains  south  of  this  valley,  and 
here,  for  the  first  time,  beheld  the  waters  of  the 
great  inland  sea  spread  out  before  him.  He  re- 
turned to  his  party,  and  with  them  proceeded  to 
the  lake,  and  on  further  inspection  concluded  it 
was  an  arm  of  the  ocean.  This  was  its  first  dis- 
covery by  white  men.  The  next  recorded  visita- 
tion IS  that  of  John  Bedyer,  in  1825,  and  the 
next  was  by  Captain  Bonneville,  in  18;}1,  who 
saw  it  from  the  Red  Buttes  in  the  Wahsatch 
Range,  and  whose  account  was  written  up  by 
Wasliington  Irving.    In  1832,  Captain  Walker 


first  attemp';ed  to  explore  it  with  a  pavtv  of  forty 
myn.  He  traveled  around  the  northern  and 
western  boundaries,  but  was  conii>elled  to  aban- 
don the  undertaking  for  want  of  water  for  hiji 
animals  and  men.  Captain  Stausbury  al'ti>r- 
wards  explored  it,  and  his  report  contains  the 
only  reliable  information  concerning  this  re- 
markable lake  that  has  been  published  fmin 
official  sources,  though  subsequent  observation 
has  revealed  many  facts  and  phenomenon  con- 
cei-ning  it  which  would  be  highly  interesting  if 
they  could  be  collected  and  given  to  the  world  in 
tangible  form.  General  Iremont  also  visited 
this  lake,  and  has  given  some  infoi-mation  about 
it 

AnalyfttH, — The  only  analysis  of  its  waters 
that  we  have  been  able  to  obtain  is  that  given 
by  Dr.  Gale  and  recorded  in  Captain  Staiisbuiy's 
report.  We  quote :  "  It  gives  the  specific  gravity, 
1.170;  solid  contents,  22.422  out  of  100  parts. 
The  solid  contents  when  analyzed  gave  the  fol- 
lowing conqwnents : 

Chloride  of  Ekxlliiro,  2n.ljM 

Siilpli'iU!  or  wmIh,  1.8;<4 

Chloridb  or  iiiHgiieRlum.  o.:i^ 
Chloride  of  Culciuiu,  a  trace. 


Lo«, 


22.282 
0.140 

22.422 


A  remarkable  thing  about  this  analysis  is  that 
the  specific  gravity,  as  here  given,  corresixmds 
exactly  with  the  mean  of  eight  different  analyses 
of  the  waters  of  the  Dead  Sea  of  Palestine,  which 
is  largely  above  that  of  the  water  of  the  ocean. 
This  analysis  reveals  what  is  now  generally 
known,  that  here  is  a  source  from  which  salt 
enough  can  be  obtained  to  supply  the  Continen:. 
When  it  is  considered,  however,  that  all  the 
streams  flowing  into  this  lake  are  fresh  water, 
draining  the  water-shed  of  a  large  area  of 
country,  and  discharging  from  the  springs,  melt- 
ing snows  and  rains  of  the  great  ba.sin,  an  im- 
mense volume  of  water,  the  puzzling  question 
very  naturally  arises  as  to  the  source  of  tl  is 
abundant  supply  of  saline  matter.  The  various 
saline  incrustations,  however,  at  various  points 
on  the  surrounding  shores,  indicate  dearly  that 
.:iome  {)oruou  of  tae  earth  is  sattiratcd  with  tlti-s 
ingredient.  Btill  this  lake  is  without  any  visi- 
ble outlet,  and  with  all  the  great  influx  of  fresli 
woter,  annually,  why  does  it  remain  so  salty  ? 
The  inference  naturally  follows  that  it  washes 
some  vast  bed  of  rock  salt  or  saline  deposit  in 
tha  bottom  of  the  lake,  hitherto  undiscovered. 
At  present,  however,  this  is  a  supposition 
which  may  or  may  not  be  true.  The  shores  of 
this  lake,  especially  toward  the  city  bearing  the 
samo  name,  nave  now  l)een  settled  nearly  thirty 
years,  and  it  would  bo  strange  indeed  if  the 
changes  in  elevation  wliich  havelieen  gradual 'y 
going  on  in  this  lake  should  not  have  lK>i<n 
noticed.    The  elevation  is  given  at  4,200  foot 


TME  ^SCiWtC  rOV9iST. 


1« 


atiove  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  elevation  of 
Salt  Lake  City  is  given  at  4,351  feet  above  the 
gea — difference  of  151  feet.  Tlie  figures  here 
given  as  the  elevation  of  the  lake,  we  tliink,  are 
based  upon  observations  and  calculations  made 
several  years  ago,  perhaps  by  Captain  Stansbury. 
The  observation  of  the  old  settlers  is,  that  it  19 
not  correct — that  the  lake  is  from  ten  to  fifteen 
feet  higher  now  than  it  was  in  1850,  and  that  in 
proportion  as  the  water  rises  it  becomes  less 
salty.  Utiliable  citizens  have  informed  us  that 
in  fSoO,  three  barrels  of  water  evaporated  would 
make  one  of  salt ;  now,  four  barrels  of  water  are 
required  for  the  same  result.  This  fact  leads  to 
the  opinion  that  the  humidity  of  tlie  atmosphere 
in  tins  region  of  the  Continent  is  increasing — in 
consequence  of  which  there  is  less  evajwration — 
evaporation  being  greater  and  more  rapid  in  a 
dry  than  in  a  moist  atmosphere — and  the  failure 
of  evaporation  to  take  up  the  surplus  waters  dis- 
charged into  tliis  lake  has  not  only  increased  its 
volume  and  extent,  but  lessened  its  saline 
character.  Since  the  settlement  of  this  Terri- 
tory, there  has  been  a  great  increase  of  rain-fall, 
so  much  so  that  it  is  noticed  and  remarked  upon 
by  very  many  of  the  inhabitants,  and  the  belief 
is  very  gsnerally  entertained  that  the  Territory  is 
gradually  undergoing  a  great  climatic  change. 

SpeciilatlonH  an  to  the  lietttUt. — The 
evaporation  of  the  water  in  the  lake  growing 
gradually  less,  it  will,  of  course,  continue  to 
rise  and  overflow  its  banks  in  the  lowest  places, 
but  no  fears  need  be  entertained  for  the  safety 
of  any  considerable  portion  of  the  country,  or 
the  inhabitants  thereof.  Notice  the  elevation  of 
Salt  Lake  City,  as  herein  given,  being  about  151 
feet  greater  than  the  lake  itself.  If  the  rise 
continues  it  will  be  slower  as  the  covered  surface 
of  the  adjoining  land  becomes  greater,  on  the 
principle  that  the  larger  end  of  a  vessel  fills  more 
slowly  with  the  same  stream,  than  the  smaller 
end.  If  it  reaches  a  height  of  15  or  20  feet 
above  its  present  surface,  it  will  first  overflow  a 
low,  sandy  and  alkali  desert  on  its  western  shore, 
nearly  as  large  as  the  lake  itself.  In  this  case, 
its  evaporating  capacity  will  be  nearly  doubled 
in  extent — a  fact  which  will  operate  to  retard 
its  rise.  But  if  it  continues  to  rise  in  the  years 
to  come  until  it  must  have  an  outlet  to  the  ocean, 
that  outlet  will  bo  the  Humboldt  Biver,  and  a 
cut  of  100  feet  or  less  in  the  low  hills  of  the 
divide  will  give  it.  Parties  who  are  well  ac- 
quainted with  the  nature  of  the  country  sur- 
rounding this  great  body  of  salt  water,  do  not 
agree  with  the  views  expressed,  that  in  case  its 
rise  continues,  its  waters  will  flow  into  the 
Humboldt  River.  They  assert  that  north  of 
Monument  Bock  is  on  extensive  arm  of  tho  lake, 
now  dry,  and  that  tho  divide  between  tho  north- 
ern extremity  of  this  arm  and  the  Baft  Biver,  a 
tributary  of  Snake  Biver,  is  not  more  than  from 
fifty  to  seventy-five  feet  high;  and  that,  *'  the 


lake  rises,  this  divide  will  Im  washed  out — or  a 
channel  may  be  cut  through  it  into  Raft  Biver, 
and  the  surplus  waters  of  the  lake  thus  drained 
into  the  Pacific  Ocean  through  the  Sn^e  and 
Columbia  Bivors.  When,  however,  this  event 
transpires,  it  will  be — unless  some  convulsion  of 
nature  intervenes  to  hasten  it — after  the  last 
reader  of  this  book  shall  have  finished  his  earthly 
labors  and  been  quietly  laid  away  to  rest. 

BoundarieH  ana  Extent. — Looking  from 
Observation  Point  at  the  south  end  of  the  lake, 
to  the  north,  it  seems  to  be  pretty  well  di- 
vided. Promontory  Mountains  on  Antelope 
Island,  those  on  Stansbury  Island  and  Oquirrh 
Mountains  are  evidently  parts  of  the  same 
range — lunning  from  north  to  south,  parallel 
with  the  'tVahsatch  Range.  Their  continuity  is 
only  broken  by  the  waters  in  the  lake  or  sink  of 
the  great  basin.  Promontory  Mountains  divide 
the  northern  end  of  the  lake  into  two  parts,  or 
arms,  the  eastern  being  called  Bear  Uiver  Bay, 
and  the  western.  Spring  Bay — the  latter  being 
considerably  the  largest.  The  lake  has  numei'ous 
islands,  both  large  and  small.  Fremont  Island 
lies  due  west  of  the  mouth  of  AVeber  River,  and 
is  plainly  visible  from  the  cars  of  the  Utah  Cen- 
tral Railroad.  South  of  it  and  nearest  to  Salt 
Lake  City,  is  Antelope  Island.  West  of  Ante- 
lope, and  north-west  irom  Lake  Point,  is  Stans- 
bury Island.  A  little  north-west  of  this,  is  Car- 
rington  Island.  North  of  these  still,  and  in  the 
western  part  of  the  lake  are  Hat,  Gunnison  and 
Dolphin  Islands.  Nearly  south  of  Gunnison 
Island  is  a  high  promontory  jutting  out  into  the 
lake  called  Strong's  Knob  ;  it  is  a  prominent 
landmark  on  the  western  shore  of  the  lake. 
Travelers  on  the  Central  Pacific  Road  can  ob- 
tain a  fine  view  of  this  great  inland  sea,  near 
^lonument  Station.  The  extreme  length  of  the 
lake  is  about  80  miles,  and  its  extreme  width,  a 
little  south  of  the  41st  parallel  of  latitude,  is 
about  50  miles.  Promontory  Mountains  project 
into  the  lake  from  the  north  about  60  miles. 
Nearly  all  tlie  islands  we  have  named  are  rich  in 
minerals,  such  as  copper,  silver,  gold  and  iron. 
Excellen*,  quarries  of  slate  have  also  been  opened, 
but  neither  it  nor  the  mines  have  been  developed 
to  any  great  extent,  because  of  the  want  of  cap- 
ital. 

Incidents  and  C«Wo»///e».— When  Col- 
onel Fremont  first  explored  the  lake  in  184:3,  it 
is  related  by  Jessie,  his  wife,  that  when  his  boat 
first  touched  the  shore  of  Fremont  Island,  an 
oarsman  in  ihe  bow  of  the  boat  was  al>out  to 
jump  ashore,  when  Kit  Carson,  the  guide,  insisted 
that  Colonel  Fremont  should  first  land  and 
name  the  island, — "  Fremont  IsJmid." 

Tonic  l*i'oi>ertien. — A  bath  in  the  water 
of  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  is  one  of  the  greatest 
delights  a  tourist  can  seek.  We  have  per- 
sonally indulged  in  its  pleasure,  and  it  is  beyond 
question    a    splendid    recreation.       Upon    the 


III 


'il 


1A6 


TMB  i^stciFic  romnisr. 


wharf  near  Lake  Point,  is  a  cozy  bathing-liouse, 
wherein  are  bathing-suitH,  and  large  tubs  tilled 
with  fresh  water;  donning  the  suits,  you  descend 
the  steps  and  jump  into  the  water.  You  are 
surprised  at  the  buoyancy  of  it.  The  most 
vigorous  elfort  and  plunge  will  not  keep  your 
body  under  the  surface.  Clasping  your  hands 
and  feet  in  the  water,  you  can  sit  on  its  bosom 
with  head  and  shoulders  projecting  above  the 
surface, — and  even  then  for  but  a  short  period,  as 
the  buoyancy  of  the  water  soon  has  a  tendency  to 
tip  you  over  on  your  side.  It  is  im^wssible  to 
stand  erect  in  the  water,  no  matter  how  sti-aight 
or  rigid  you  place  your  limbs, — in  a  monient 
over  goes  your  head,  and  up  come  your  feet. 
Lying; on  your  back,  or  side,  or  face,  in  any  |)osition 
— still  you  will  always  keep  at  the  surface.  JJut 
beyond  this  ciu'ious  feature  of  iir.ix)sHibility  of 
sinking,  thi^re  is  the  better  quality  of  the 
toning  awl  inpiiforatimj  propirtien  ot'  the  bulk. 
These  are  beyond  all  question,  the  finest  of  any 
spring  along  the  Overland  Route.  In  some 
warm  stunm^r  day,  take  your  bath  in  the  lake, — 
spenJ,  say  half  an  hour  in  its  water,  and  then 
returning  to  your  bath-house,  cleanse  your  skin 
from  all  saline  material,  which  may  adhere,  by 
plentiful  ablutions  of  pure  water  from  the  tubs, 
wash  the  hair  and  face  thoroughly,  then  dress 
and  walk  up  and  down  the  whari,  or  the  cool 
piazza  of  the  hotel, — and  you  are  astonished  at 
the  wonderful  amount  of  strength  and  invig- 
oration  given  to  your  system,  and  with  greater 
elasticity  than  ever  yon  have  |X)ssessed  before,  it 
seems  like  the  commencement  of  a  new  life. 
Invalids  should  never  fail  to  visit  this  lake,  and 
enjoy  its  bath.  Tourists  who  omit  it, — will 
leave  bcthind  them  the  greatest  curiosity  of  the 
Overland  Tour,  and  it  is  no  great  effort  of  the 
imagination  to  conceive  this  fully  the  rival  of 
the  great  ocean  in  all  that  can  contribute  to  the 
attractions  of  sea-shore  life.  The  cool  breeze 
and  diilicious  bath  are  all  here. 

In  the  summer  time  the  excursion  rates  from 
Salt  Lake  City,  are  sB I  50  pyr  ticket,  which  in- 
cludes passage  both  ways  over  the  Utah  Western 
Railroad,  a  ride  on  the  steamer  on  the  lake,  and 
the  privilege  of  a  bath, — the  cheapest  and 
most  useful  enjoyment  in  the  entire  Territoj-y. 

The  only  life  in  or  near  the  lake,  is  seen  in 
the  summer  time  by  immense  masses  of  little 
insects  (astemia  fertilUo,)  which  live  on  the 
surface  of  the  lake,  and  thrive  on  its  brine. 
These  masses  stretch  out  in  curious  forms  over 
the  surface.  Sometimes,  when  small,  they  appear 
like  a  serpent,  at  other  times  like  riiigs,  globes, 
and  other  irregular  figures.  A  gei.tle  breeze 
will  never  disturb  them,  for  their  presence  keeps 
the  water  a  dead  calm  as  if  oil  had  been  poured 
upon  it.  If  disturbed  by  a  boat  passing  through 
the  mass,  millions  of  little  gnats  or  flies  arise 
and  swarm  all  over  the  vessel — anything  but 
agreeable.      Professor  Spencer  M.  Baird,  of  the 


Sp",  vhsonian  Institute,  Washington,  believe.-;  the 
laKe  may  yet  sustain  fish  and  other  aninia!  lite. 
There  seems  to  be  plenty  of  insect  fimd  al. 
ways  on  the  surface, — occasionally  with  liigh 
winds,  the  surface  of  the  hike  is  driven  into 
waves,  which  dashing  against  the  shore,  sliovver 
the  sage  brushes  near  with  salty  incrustatioiijt, 
which,  when  dried  in  the  sunlight,  give  a  In  i|;iit, 
glittering  and  jHiarly  appearance,  often  fuiiiish. 
ing  splendid  si>eciinens  for  mineral  cabinets. 

AtnuMpheie. — The  atmosphere  which  sur- 
rounds the  lake,  is  a  curiosity,  always  bliii^li  and 
hazy — from  the  effects  of  the  active  evajjointion, 
— in  decided  contrast  to  the  purity  and  tiaii.s- 
parency  of  the  air  elsewhere  Surveyors  say 
that  it  is  ditficnit  to  use  telescopes,  and  astro- 
nomical ubservatioiis  are  inqH>rl'ect. 

The  solid  ingredients  of  the  water  have  six 
and  one-half  times  the  density  of  those  of  the 
ocean,  and  wherever  washed  niwn  the  shore,  the 
salt  dried,  after  evajwration,  can  be  easily 
shoveled  up  into  buckets  and  bags. 

Uurton  de.scribes  a  beautiful  sunset  scene  iijion 
the  lake.  "We  turned  onr  faces  ea-xtwaid  a.s 
the  sun  was  diciining.  The  view  had  intnio- 
rable  beauties.  From  the  blue  and  pui  iile  cKxids, 
gorgeously  edgi^d  with  cele^tial  fire,  Miot  up  a 
fanot  i^enciled  and  colored  light,  extending  liiijf- 
way  to  the  zenith,  while  in  the  t-ouXh  and  .>-()iith- 
cast  lightnin<;s  played  among  the  daikerinist 
ma.s.ses,  which  backed  the  golden  and  tnierald 
bench-lands  of  the  farther  valley.  1  he  H)iltii(lid 
sunset  gave  a  reflix  of  its  loveliness  njioii  the 
alkaline  barrens  aiouiid  us.  <)]<posite  lose  the 
Wahsr.tch  Mountains,  vast  and  voluminous,  in 
stern  and  gloomy  grandeur,  iioitliwaid  t!:e  liiin 
white  va]X)i-s  lising  fiom  the  hot  springs,  and 
the  dark  swells  of  the  lake." 

The  liieut  JJeseit  if  eat  of  Salt  Lahe 
at II. — The  overland  stage,  which  traversed 
westward,  followed  a  route  immediately  south  of 
Salt  Lake,  and  passed  for  seveial  linnclred  miles 
through  a  de.sert,  beside  which  the  llnmlxildt 
Valley  had  no  comparison  in  tedioiisness  and  dis- 
comfort. Captain  Stansbury,  an  early  exi>lorer,  in 
de.scribing  this  section,  describes  large  tracts  of 
land  covered  with  an  incrustation  ot  salt : 

"The  first  part  of  the  plains  consisted  simply 
of  dried  mud,  with  small  crystals  of  salt  scat- 
tered thickly  over  the  surface;  crossing  this,  we 
came  upon  another  portion  of  it,  three  miles  in 
width,  where  the  ground  was  entirely  covered 
with  a  thin  layer  of  salt  in  a  state  of  deliques- 
cence, and  of  so  soft  consistence,  that  the  leet  of 
our  mules  sank  at  eveiy  step  into  the  mnd  l)e- 
neath.  But  we  soon  came  n])on  a  portion  of 
the  plains  where  the  salt  lay  in  a  solid  state,  in 
one  unbmken  sheet,  extending  apparently  to  its 
western  border.  So  firm  and  strong  was  tliis 
unique  and  snowy  floor,  that  it  sustained  tiie 
weight  of  our  entire  t-ain  without  in  the  leiist 
givi^ig  way,  or  cracking  beneath  the  pressure. 


FMM  ^sieiFW  FO^^IST. 


167 


Our  inul>B  walked  upon  it  as  ufton  a  sheet  of 
solid  ice.  Tiie  whole  iielil  was  cioM.Hed  hy  a  iiet- 
woik  of  little  rid^ea.  projectiii;]^  about  half  au 
inoli,  as  if  the  salt  had  expaiideil  in  the  process 
of  cryittallization.  I  estimated  this  Held  to  be.  at 
least,  seviii  miles  wide  and  ten  miles  in  length. 
The  salt  wi.ich  was  very  pure  and  white,  avei- 
a<;uil  from  one-half  to  tliree-<|uarters  of  an  inch 
in  tliickness,  and  was  equal  in  all  res|iects  to  our 
iiiie.st  specim  n  for  table  use.  Assuming;  these 
data,  the  quantity  that  here  lay  upon  the  ground 
ill  one  body,  exclusive  of  that  already  dis- 
golved. — amounted  to  over  4,ijOD,U  0  cubic  yards, 
or  al)0iit  lll-MKI  t.U  'U  bushels,"  And  even  this 
small  areii,  is  but  a  very  little  i^trtion  of  the 
whole  region,  farther  northward  and  wt-stward. 

The  Wonders  of  Montana, 

This  new  territory  possesses  very  many  re- 
markalde  features  of  wonderful  scenery,  agii- 
cultural  weilth  and  mineral  richness.  In  a  few 
years  it  will  bo  as  famous  and  popular  as  Col- 
orado. 

Its  Indian  name  is  Taif-n-hn  x/iorkup,  or 
"  C'lunlrif  "t' ihe  Mountiins."  To  a  larger  extent 
than  any  Western  'I'erritory  it  is  traversed  by 
great  rivers.  The  Missouri  and  Columbia  with 
all  their  tributaritis  ea-h  (tossess  nearly  2,<M)U 
miles  of  water,  largely  navit^able  within  its  Inir- 
dcirs, — and  with  the  Yellowstone,  any  of  them 
are  larger  than  the  Ohio  Kivtr  at  l*iitsburgh. 
I'rohaiily  no  state  in  America  ia  as  finely 
watered.  The  valleys  of  these  rivers  are  won- 
derfully beautiful,  usually  a  dozen  miles  in 
width  or  m  )re,  and  all  arable  land.  AVere  the 
fertile  land  of  Montana  placed  by  itself,  it  would 
form  a  country  four  miles  wide  and  4,000  long. 

In  addition  to  these  valley  lands,  t!i?  sloping 
sides  of  the  mountains  are  the  natural  home  for 
grazing  immense  her.'.s  of  cattle.  The  grass 
land  and  piistures  of  the  Territory,  being  more 
famous  in  richness  than  any  Territory  of  the 
Union. 

The  climate  ia  very  mild,  although  never  as 
warm  as  in  terrix)i  )s  farther  south,  yet  far  more 
even  and  equable.  In  winter  constant  sunshine. 
The  snow-tall  is  nut  as  large  as  Michigan  or 
Minnesota,  and  by  actual  test,  the  number  of 
fiiiedays  in  one  year  was  2!)1, — or  100  more  than 
the  average  of  Chicago  or  Philadelphia.  The 
average  winter  temperature  is  from  25*  to  44", 
which  being  in  a  dry  climate  is  equal  to  that  of 
35^  to  55"  in  an  Eastern  State.  The  average 
temperature  for  a  year  is  48"*.  The  highest  ex- 
treme of  heat  for  six  years  was  94° — and  low- 
est !»>' — which  ia  less  than  any  Eastern  State, — 
while  the  spring  season  opens  a  month  earlier 
than  at  Omaha 

These  peculiarities  of  climate  are  due  to  the 
influence  of  the  mildness  of  the  winds  of  the 
Pacific  Ocean,  which  blow  across  Oregon,  and 


up  the  valley  of  the  Columbia,  and  so  moderate 
the  climate  of  this  region  that,  while  most 
northern  in  location,  yet  it  is  equal  in  niihlness 
to  one  nearly  l.UtM)  miles  south.  There  are 
1U,<  U<l,(H»>t  acres  of  land  suited  for  culture  and 
less  than  5'  U.tMK)  occupied,  d.e  last  crops  bring- 
ing about  9-i.(MHVKiU  in  value. 

Jhe  Territory  is  5."jO  miles  long,  east  and  west, 
and  iiO)  miles  wide  from  north  to  south.  It  is 
three  times  the  size  of  New  York,  twice  the  size 
of  the  whole  of  New  England,  and  will  more 
than  take  Uliio  and  Indiana  together  within  its 
borders. 

Stock  raising  in  Montana  is  attended  with  the 
greatest  ease.  A  $-iO  Montana  steer,  costs  but 
^•J  to  raise, — and  while  the  mines  continue  to 
increase  in  productiveness,  the  demand  lor  all 
farm  and  dairy  products  will  be  very  great. 

Montana  is  filled  full  with  riches  of  gold,  sil- 
ver, iron,  had.  copfter,  etc.  Coal  is  extremely 
abundant.  Tht*  entire  mineral  yield  of  the  Ter- 
ritory to  the  present  time  is  IH4.VllO(»,000. 

The  financial  condition  is  extremely  lucrative. 
The  average  weiilth  of  the  yieople  is  tloO,  for 
every  man,  v.onian  and  chiUl — the  highest  of 
any  Western  Territory.  Its  entire  productions 
last  year  were  *1(MK)0,000.  The  freight,  etc, 
l>aid  lor  merchandise  p.nssine  to  and  from  its 
piincipal  cities  exceeded  |il(»,0(tO,OttO.  The 
tran«iK)rlation  busisiess  is  immense,  giving  em- 
l)lovment  to  over  2..5(i0  wagons,  8.500  animals, 
1.400  men,  and  an  investnl  capital  of  !|],.^ili(),liOO, 
an<l  the  imports  and  fxporis  exceed  yearly 
&  0,0(l0.flO  •  pounds  or  4lMHiO  tons.  Employ- 
ment  is  abunilant,  living  cheap,  no  one  is  jwior — 
for  a  Poor  Miiii'n  Paradise,  there  is  no  home  like 
one  in  Montana. 

The  average  elevation  of  the  Territory  is 
4,000  feet  above  the  ken, — l.alf  that  of  Colorado. 
It  is  -jnlike  Utah  or  Nevada,  in  that  the  country 
is  generally  green,  whilo  the  others  are  dry 
most  of  the  year. 

Utnh  atul  Northern  Branch  Uninn 
Pacific  Railway,  or  the  New  Itnnte  to 
Montana  awl  tlie  Yellowstone. — This  new 
railroad  has  been  lately  pushed  rapidly  north- 
ward from  Ogden,  Utah,  toward  Montana.  It 
is  nov/  (June,  1831)  completed  to  Molroso, 
Mcucana,  33('  miles  north  of  Ogden,  and  onlv 
thirty-five  ir.iles  south  of  Butte,  sixty -five  Bouth 
of  Deer  Lodge,  and  seventh-five  south  of 
Helena,  all  of  which  points  it  will  prolmbly 
reach  during  ISSl.  Upon  this  road  are  several 
points  of  very  great  interest,  worth  the  special 
visit  of  tourists  for  one  or  two  days.  The  road 
after  leaving  Ogden  runs  for  a  number  of  miles 
close  to  the  foot  of  the  Wahsatch  Mountains. 
On  its  way  it  passes  a  sulphur  spring  (Hot 
Spring  station)  where  arises  a  dense  cloud  of 
vapor. 

The  first  town  is  Willard,  a  little  village 
with  2,000  inhabitants,  the  couuty-srjat  of  Bo« 


158 


FMM   1?;§€iFia  TQimmW. 


Elder  Coxintv.  The  rood  pbhsob  vritliin  about 
six  milos  of  Corinno,  and  tlio  t(>rminiia  waa  for- 
merlj  thoro.  Thoro  aro  no  largo  towns  to  in- 
terest tho  traveler,  but  rcacbiuii;  the  Siimmtt, 
four  inilos  from  CoUinston,  there  tho  road 
gradually  rises  al)Ove  the  valley  upward  to  tho 
mountain  range,  giving  grand  views  of  tho 
Groat  H. Jt  Lake  and  its  islands,  -with  the  orch- 
ards and  (;ruiu  fi(>lds  below.  A  backward  look 
reveals  the  gloiirs  of  the  monntains.  Beach- 
ing tho  Summit,  there  is  a  glorious  view  of  an 
interior  valley  of  the  Bear  Biver,  -with  its  vil- 
lages and  distant  .  >ews  of  canons  and  peaks 
The  road  then  descends  rapidly  into  the  Cache 
Volley.  The  land  is  remarkably  rich  and  well 
irrigated.  Near  Logan  is  a  high  plateau  SOU 
foet  above  the  town,  whence  a  Hue  view  of  the 
valley  is  obtained,  and  over  fourteen  Atofmon 
vilhgfs  sren,  surrounded  with  a  series  of  moiin- 
taias  capped  with  snow.  Tho  scene  is  most 
picturesque. 

Logan  is  the  county-seat  of  Cache  County, 
and  the  metropolis  of  tho  valley.  Its  popula- 
tion is  8,000.  Here  is  to  be  a  magnincent 
Mormon  temple,  171  feet  long,  95  wide, 
and  M  high,  with  a  tower  rising  up  144  feet. 
The  whole  to  cost  half  a  million.  Logan  Val- 
k>y  has  a  population  of  about  15,000. 

Hiide  rai'k  is  a  town  of  800,  Smithfifld 
1,200,  and  Richmond  1,200  (Lewiston  400,  four 
miles  from  the  road),  and  all  are  well  supplied 
with  irrigating  ditches,  and  lovely  in  appear- 
mce. 

franklin  is  in  luaho,  one  mUe  north  of 
the  Utali  line,  a  village  of  500  inhabitants,  and 
forty  miles  from  Malad  City,  the  shiretown  of 
Oneida  County. 

Battle  Creek  keeps  alive  the  memory  of 
Oeneral  Connor's  light  with  the  Shoshone  In- 
dians in  1863-64,  when,  in  the  perils  of  snow 
two  feet  deep,  he  left  but  few  to  fight  again. 

Oxford  and  Swan  lAike  are  unimportant 
but  the  latter  is  an  evidence  of  good  sport  for 
the  gunner.  Game  is  abundant  in  all  the  val- 
leys, and  swan,  ducks  and  geese  on  the  lake. 

After  Nine  Mile  station  comes  Oneida,  and 
near  Oneida,  and  thirty  miles  distant,  are  the 
famons  Soda  Springs  of  Idaho,  which  can  now 
lie  reached  by  stage.  This  is  a  place  where 
most  remarkable  cures  have  been  cnected. 

Passiii.g  Belli  Marsh,  Porttt'uf,  Pocatelle  and 
Ross  Fnrk,  we  arrive  at  Blackfttot,  a  mile  south- 
east of  the  Snake  Biver  and  a  mile  north  of 
the  Blai^kfoot  Biver.  The  broad  p?sun  is  cov- 
ered wilh  sage.  Here  is  the  eating-station  for 
pa8seng«)rs.  New  Fort  Hall  is  eight  miles  dis- 
t»n«i. 

Riverside.  Eagle  Rock,  Market  Lake  and 
Lav  art3  unimportant,  and  so  is  Camas,  except 
that  it  is  the  stage  station  for  Salmon  City. 

Dry  Creek,  Mi^h  B*idf>e,  China  Point, 
Beaver  C%non,  Pleasant  Valley,  Monida,  iVil- 


Hams,  Sfirine  HHL  Red  Rrck  C,r  >yling  itnd 
D  Ihn  aro  all  of  littlo  importance,  oxei'pt  that 
Dillon,  tho  present  terminus,  is  tho  HtoKc 
station  for  tho  Yellowstone  National  Park. 

Helena  i'itif  is  ol)ont  500  miles  north  from 
O.-^fden,  and  has  a  population  of  5,0iX).  Its  tax- 
able wealth  is  IjJJ,  000, 000— a  beautiful  city.  Its 
IjusinoBS  is  very  large.  Tlie  three  banks  often 
exceed  transactions  of  $1)00,000  jw'r  day.  H:>v- 
eral  groccrv  Arms  each  do  busineHs  of  over  nno 
million  dollars  per  annum,  and  half  a  million 
dollars  are  paid  for  freight  coming  here. 

Virginia  City  hosabout  1,000  inhalifimtg 
— elevation,  5,713  feet— very  enterprising.  A 
1)oautifiil  spring  upon  the  mountain-sido  tion 
through  pipes  into  the  place,  which  is  tluro 
supplied  at  no  cost  to  tho  people,  who  inijirovo 
its  use  for  pretty  flower  gardens  and  fruit  farii  h. 
It  is  tho  principal  oiitfitting  pla<!0  fcr  the  Yi'l- 
lowstone  Park,  distant  100  mues.  A  fine  wnj»i)n 
road  extends  the  entire  distance,  and  stages  niu 
regularly  in  summer. 

Bozeman  is  beautifully  located,  surronndid 
by  mountains  obruptly  rising  above  th»>  val ' 
Population  1200;  has  many  elegant  resi  lencpv 
From  here  is  an  excellent  route  to  the  Y./i"  m- 
stone  Pork,  about  KJO  miles  away.  Near  Boat- 
man also  aro  other  places  of  attraction  ta 
tourists :  Mystic  Lake,  distance  14milo8;  Lund  s 
Hot  Springs,  8  miles;  Bock  Canon,  5  inilc?' 
Bridger  Canon,  3  miles;  Boar  Canon  iind 
Lakes,  6  miles;  Hunter's  Hot  Springs  on  tlm 
Yellowstone,  47  miles;  Middle  Creek  Falls  aiK' 
Canon,  15  miles;  Mount  Blackmore,  30  miles 

The  mountains  around  are  the  SportmanV 
Home,  full  of  large  game,  and  streams  urv 
crowded  with  trout 

The  Deer  Lodge  Springs  are  the  prinoipuT 
health  resort.     Here  are  forty  springs,  iron, 
soda,  iodine,  grouped  together,  with  tiempen.- 
ture  of  115»  to  150". 
ROUTES  TO  THE  NATIONAL  PARK. 

For  tourists  to  the  Yellowstone  the  only  tie- 
sirable  route  is  that  given  above,  saving  o\er 
300  miles  of  horseback  riding  required  on  any 
other  route,  and  having  only  a  short,  but  ex- 
ceedingly pleasant  stage  ride  from  the  railway 
terminus.  There  are,  however  several  renins 
to  this  wonder  land.  The  first  is  as  above 
to  Virginia  City  or  Bozeman.  The  tourist 
has  the  choice  of  starting  from  either  of  tht  so 
plact,8,  at  both  of  which  a  complete  outfit  of 
supplies,  animals  and  guides  may  be  obtaine'l. 
Virginia  C'ity  is  preferable,  as  a  superb  stajce 
line  runs  thence  to  the  Park. 

From  Bozeman  the  roulie  is  up  tho  Yellow- 
stone Biver  and  across  to  the  Geyser  Basins,  n  ltd 
thence  by  way  of  the  Madison  Biver  to  Virginia 
City.  Tnis  is  the  routt>  that  will  be  followed  in 
the  description.  There  is  a  wagon  rviad  from 
Bozeman  to  the  Mammi->th  Hot  Springs,  wh^'ifl 
there  is  said  to  be  a  hoteL 


FMM  ^iMCMFW  WOVmST. 


1A» 


From  Virginia  Citj^,  thero  in  thecholco  of  two 
roadH,  one  of  which  ih  to  ctohh  to  tho  Madison 
andfollow  tho  trail  up  tho  rivor  thiou^h  tho 
Second  Canon  to  the  Ooyser  Baninn.  Tlio  test, 
however,  is  to  follow  tho  wa^on  rood  w  hich  is 
oomploted  to  the  Upper  Ocwwu'  Biuiin.  It  leaves 
the  southeastern  limit  oi  Virginia  City,  and 
strikes  the  Madison  near  Wigwam  Creek,  where 
it  crosses  the  river  and  follows  it  to  a  point  just 
above  the  crossing  of  Lawrence  Creek.  Here  it 
reerosses  and  closely  follows  the  river  to  Drift- 
wood or  Big  Bend,  three  miles  below  the  Second 
Canon.  It  then  leaves  the  Madison  Valley  and 
crosses  through  Baynolds'  Pass  to  Henrv's  Lake, 
the  head  water  of  Henry's  Fork  of  Snake  River. 

FromSawtelle'sBauche,  on  the  lake,  the  rood 
follows  the  east  shore  of  the  lake  for  three  miles 
in  a  southerly  direction,  when  it  turns  to  the 
nortli-east  and  passes  through  Tyghee  or  Targee 
Pass  and  down  Beaver  Dam  Creek,  over  the 
South  Fork  of  the  Madison,  and  strikes  tiie 
nioutli  of  the  Fire  Hole  Canon,  10  miles  below 
the  Lower  (ieyser  Basin.  It  then  follows  the 
river  closely,  crossing  twice  before  reaching  the 
boHiii. 

Fram  the  basins,  the  route  is  either  via  Mud 
Volcanoes,  Shoshone  Lake,  or  Yellowstone  Lake, 
to  tiie  Yellowstone  and  Bozeman.  Al)out  a 
month  ought  to  be  allowed  for  the  round  trip. 

A  second  route,  and  one  which  shortens  the 
stage  ride,  is  to  purchase  an  outfit  at  Salt  I^ake, 
or  Ogden,  and  send  it  ahead  to  Market  Lake,  in 
Snake  River  Valley,  joining  it  via  the  railroad 
to  Franklin  and  stage  line  to  Market  Lake. 
This  saves  about  2;W  miles  of  staging.  It  is 
about  100  miles  by  a  nack  train  trail  from 
Market  Lake  to  Henry's  Lake  from  which  point 
the  Virginia  City  wagon  road  is  followed  to  the 
"Geyser  Basins." 

Another  route  from  Market  Lake,  which  is 
long  and  somewhat  out  of  the  way,  but  inore  in- 
teresting, as  it  gives  an  opportunity  'to  visit 
Alount  Ilaydeu  and  passes  some  magnificent 
flcenery,  is  to  travel  with  a  pack  train  up  Pierre's 
River,  across  Teton  Pass,  and  up  the  main  Snake 
River  \a  Shoshone  Lake,  whence  the  other  points 
of  interest  in  the  Park  are  readily  reached.  This 
is  one  of  the  routes  followed  by  the  Hayden 
Geological  Survey  in  1872. 

Third.  Camp  Brown  is  a  military  post  about 
120  miles  from  Rawlins  Springs  Station  on  the 
Union  Pacific  Railroad,  with  which  it  is  con- 
nected by  a  stage  road.  The  trail  from  Camp 
Brown  to  Yellowstone  Lake  is  said  to  be  easy 
anJ  the  distance  only  about  1 40  miles.  It  crosses 
the  mountains  at  the  head  of  the  Upper  Yellow- 
stone River,  which  stream  it  follows  to  the  lake. 

Captain  Jones,  in  1873,  surveyed  a  route  from 
Point  of  Rocks  Station,  on  the  Union  Pacific 
Railroad,  via  Camp  Brown,  the  Wind  River 
Valley,  and  the  head  of  Wind  River  to  the  Yel- 
lowstone.   He  claims  that  it  saves  482  miles  in 


reaching  Yellowstone  Lake.  Tho  great  draw- 
back is  that  it  is  often  inisafe  on  icconnt  of 
Indians,  and  vi'iy  much  obstructt;d  by  fallen 
timber. 

Fourth.  ThtTf  is  the  Missouri  River  route, 
The  rivtM-  is  mivigable  as  far  as  Fort  Benton 
until  late  in  the  hum;".i;i,  and  thence  140  miles 
of  staging  will  take  us  to  Helena,  118  mik^  from 
lk)/.eman. 

From  Bismark,  the  present  terminus  of  the 
Northern  Pacific  Railroad,  a  trip  of  ten  or  fifteen 
days,  will  bring  the  traveler  to  Fort  lienton.  It 
will  be  a  te<liouH  journey,  however,  over  the 
"bad  lands  "of  Dakotah. 

Another  plan  is  to  disembark  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Mussel  Shell  River,  and  having  ordered 
horses  to  be  in  readiness,  to  take  the  wagon  trail 
to  the  Crow  Indian  Agency  at  the  Big  Bend  of 
the  Yellowstone.  This  would  give  150  miles  of 
land  travel  through  a  prairie  country  alK)uiiding 
in  antelope  and  buiTalo,  and  sometimes  Indians. 

The  National  Park  may  also  be  visited  from 
the  British  Possessions,  antl  also  by  a  road  whicli 
follows  the  Hell  Gate  and  Bitter  Root  Rivers 
from  the  west,  from  Walla  Walla. 

(Uitfittinfi.—Pi.  few  words  about  outfitting 
may  be  useful. 

It  is  scarcely  worth  while  to  take  wagons,  as 
they  can  be  taken  over  only  a  jwrtion  of  the 
route,  while  a  pack  train  may  be  taken  any- 
where. The  latter  is  therefore  preferable,  and 
for  it  a  saddle  animal  apiece,  and  two  pack 
mules  for  every  three  persons,  will  he  sufficient, 
if  too  many  delicacies  are  not  carried.  A  better 
allowance  is  one  pack  mule  for  every  member  of 
the  party.  Two  packers  and  a  cook  will  be  re- 
quired. One  of  the  former  ought  to  be  well  ac- 
quiiinted  with  the  country,  so  as  to  act  also  in  the 
capacity  of  guide.  A  hunter  will  also  be  a 
good  addition  to  the  party.  Such  men  can  easily 
be  found  at  Bozeman  and  Virginia  City. 

Thick  woolen  clothing,  stout  boots,  and  broad- 
brimmed  hats  should  be  worn.  Tents,  plenty 
of  blankets,  and  hunting  and  fishing  tackle 
should  not  be  neglected.  In  the  way  ot  provis- 
ions, substanlials  are  in  order;  $25  per  man,  for  a 
month's  trip,  will  be  u,  liberal  allowance.  Pack 
and  saddle  animah  cf;n  be  procured  at  Bozjinan 
or  Virginia  City,  for  from  .$00  to  $125  apiece. 

As  a  good  hotel  and  livery  are  now  to  be 
fotind  in  Lower  Geyser  Basin,  and  stages  run 
tri-weekly  from  Virginia  City  to  that  point,  it 
is  no  iongei  necessary  to  procure  an  outfit,  or 
hire  animals  or  guides. 

The  following  tables  of  distances  are  com- 
piled principally  from  the  reports  of  the  United 
States  Geological  Survey : 

Ogden,  Utah,   o  Dillon,  Montana  by  rail, 
Dillon  to  Virginia  City,  Montana  (Htage), 
Virginia  City  to  Lower  Oe.vser  Baain,  by  stage), 
Vi-yinia  City  to  Bozeman  (BtaKe), 
Franklin  to  Market  Lake.  Snake  Rivor  Valley, 
Point  of  RockB  Station,  Union  Parific  Bsilro'^d 
to  YeUowBtoneXikke,  by  Captain  Jjues  route,      aSQmiloa, 


350  miles. 

6j  ii.lleB. 

95  miles. 

60  miles, 
l..a  miles 


M 


Tmm  ^^giFm  wQimmw. 


161 


BOZKMAS  TO  0EV8ER  UASIN8,  PW  YELLOWSTO 

Boreiimn, 
Fori  Kills. 

Divide  butween  .Jprlntt  niul  Trail  Citteks, 
BolBler'H  Uancli)  on  YellowsKniii  Klvor 
Foot  of  ShcoihI  Jaiioii  of  )lie  Vo'lo*»tone, 
Devil'it  Slide  at  Cinimlnir  Moiiiiliiln. 
Bridi{«  iiw.T  III  mill  of  (•' .11  diner's  Ulver, 
CncliK  Valle^,  UiB  iiioi  'h  of  Hast  Fork  of  Vel- 

luwtoii*, 
C'•.l[l^illg  of  Tower  Creek. 
Divide  on  Hpiir  from  Mniiiit  Wosbburii, 
Orfwuinjt  of  CnacaUe  IJreek, 
Mini  V'oN'anoeM. 

YellowHlone  Ijiko  at  liead  of  Ulver, 
Hciid  "f  Yellowstone  Ulvcr,  10  Hot  Sprlngn  on 

Soiitli-wect  arm  of  ljil<e. 
Hot  S|irin(ji«  to  Upper  (Jeyiwr  Basin. 
Mu'i  Voicaiioi:.--  to  l^)wer  (levKer  HiLsin. 
jildco  noiir    •loutli  ot    UarUinurs  Uiver,  to 

Haniruotli  hot  Springs, 


E  KIVEIl. 

0 

iniUm 

3 

miles 

11! 

miles 

,1!t 

miles 

Wi. 

miles 

(in 

iniles 

C8 

utiles 

84 

inlleF 

8H 

miles 

!M 

miles 

I  OS 

nil.^s 

117 

miles 

IL'4 

nules 

15 

iniloR 

1,'. 

miles 

•i\ 

miles 

4  miles. 


MABKKI'  IMK>:  TO  YELUIWBTONK  LAKE. 

Market  Lake,  0  miles. 

Henry  1;  Luke.  100  luiios. 

I'yKhee  PasH,  no  .iiilcs. 

(liblion  sFirk.  13:1  mllus. 

Lower  Oeysir  Biutiu,  140  miles. 

Ulpertieyber  IJasiii,  MS  miles. 

Divide.  ISH  miloj. 

shosliono  OeystT  Batin,  162  mil<H. 

Lewis  Lake.  17'J  miles. 

H..t  SprinKK,  VidlnwHtdne  l.ukc,  180  miles. 

VIIIOJMA    OITV    TO    YKLLOWHTONE     IJlKE,  VIA   STAaE  I.INK  TO 

(iKY.-<i;n  iiAHi.Nt. 

ViraiiiiaCity,  0  uilea. 
MadiHon  Kivor.  half  mile  from  Wigwam  Orcck,        14  miles. 

DriltwiiDd,  or  l\\\f,  Bend  of  Jladison,  42  ndles. 

Henry  s  Lake,  Co  miles. 

TyKhee  Pa-B.  ftj  miles. 

<iil)l)nn'K  Fork,  STi  miles. 

Lower  (ii-yMiT  lla.sin,  .                 V3  miles. 

Upper  (ii-ycer  Uusm.  101  miles. 

Vellowstouo  Luku,  110  miles. 


THE    YELLOWSTONE    PARK. 

BY  PROF.  r.  V.  HAYBEN.—  U.  S   OJEOLOGICAL  SURVEY. 


TiiK  Yellowstotn^  Park  is  tlio  ijfraiidest  plca-sure 
gromirt  and  rfj.sort  lor  Wdiidcrfiil  .^cfiii'i-y  fin  tli(5 
AnP'iican  ('jiitiin'iit,  ami  doiihtlc.s.s  (lie  time  is 
not  far  di.'faiit.  wluui  l*aoitic  tourists  will  inaku 
it  OIK!  (>t"  tlu'ir  most  iiit<'r('stiiijr  [ilcasiin;  trips. 
'!'h(!  word  paric,  naturally  Ijrin^-s  to  tlu'  mind 
of  tiio  reader,  visions  of  tins  jnirk  ha  lie  finds  it 
in  our  eastern  cities,  or  in  foreijrn  cuj)itals  ;  witli 
its  beaiitifii!  drives,  and  its  well  k('i>t  walks,  and 
uftttlv  triinnrd  f;ra.>i.-<-pIats.  In  iinagination  lie 
stff's  the  usual  si,^'n-l)oaid ;  with  nile.s  and  re^'uia- 
lions,  aii<l  the  warnini;^,  "  ki^-p  oil'  the  j>niss." 
lie  sees  them  in  iinaiiiiialion  alone;  for  in  the 
Yellowstone  National  I'ark,  roads  an;  few  and 
Cw  between.  Animals  untamed,  suttieient  to 
furiii-!i  innumeralile  zoological  jjarden.s,  wander 
at  will  throiiy;li  tiie  dense  pine  forests,  w  i>ask 
in  tho  sunlisflit  in  beautiful  pras.sy  (.peiiin^s, 
wliose  surfaces  are  in-rfect  flower  gardens,  n;- 
spleiidHiit  with  hues  that  rival  the  rainbow. 

Klk,  fleer,  «nti'lope,  and  smaller  jjame,  are 
found  in  profusion ;  and  all  the  .streams  and 
luk<s  abound  in  fsli ;  lai<;e  and  delicious  trout: 
iniikinii;  tiie  park  a  paradise  for  the  iunter  and 
81»ortsniau. 

To  the  artist,  and  U>ver  o'  nature,  are  pn^ 
sent+'d  combinations  of  beauty  in  fjrand  pan- 
orainas  and  maffiiitiocnt  landsca|M»8,  that  are 
w^ldoin  e(pialed  elsewhere,  Snow-capjjcd  mount- 
ains tower  jjrandly  above  tlie  valley,  seeming'  to 
pierce  the  cloiid.s  ;  while  at  their  feet  urcsticams. 
that  now  plun^jo  into  th«  depths  of  dark  and 
profound  canons,  and  anon  einerpe  into  lovely 
uieiMiow-liko  valleys  throuKh  which  they  wind 
in  jriw-'eful  ourvcA;  often  exjMndinp;  into  noble 
liikes  witii  pine  fringed  .shores,  or  breakinij  into 
put  irescpio  falls  and  rapids. 

To  the  .student  of  8ci»;r.cri,  few  portions  of  the 
gle!.c  ii'.rt^cnt  ic.(Me  that  18  calculated  to  instruct 
or  uut«rtuin.     Strange  phenoniena  are  abundant. 


In  the  crevices  of  rocks,  which  are  the  result  oi 
volcanic  action,  are  found  almost  all  the  known 
varieties  of  hot  si>rinss  and  jjeysers.  (jieyscns 
like  those  of  lecjiind  are  lu^ie  seen  on  a  grander 
scale.  'J'tui  wonderful  "  Te  Tarata"  Spriujj  of 
New  Zealand,  lias  its  rival  in  the  Mammoth  Hot 
Springs  of  (Jardiner's  River;  while  the  mud 
springs  and  mud  geysers  of  .lava  have  their  re{>- 
r 'seiitati\es.  Sulphur  and  steam  vents,  (hat 
ai"  usually  found  in  similar  region.s,  are  nu- 
merous. 

('a[tta'ns  Lewis  and  Clarke,  in  their  explora- 
tion of  the  head  waters  of  the  Mi.xsouri,  in  180."), 
seein  to  have  heard  nothing  of  the  marvels  at  tlio 
sources  of  the  .Madi.son  antl  Yellowstone.  They 
placed  Yellowstone  Lake  on  their  map,  as  a  large 
Ixiily  of  water,  having  in  all  probability,  derived 
their  inforinRtion  from  the  Indians. 

In  later  years,  however,  there  began  to  be 
rumors  of  burning  jilains,  boiling  .springs,  vol- 
canoes that  ejected  water  and  mud;  great  1  Ves, 
and  other  wonders.  The  imagination  was  freely 
dr'iwn  upon,  and  most  astounding  tales  were 
told,  of  petrified  fore.st.s,  peopled  with  iwtrified 
Indians;  and  animals  turned  to  .stone.  Streams 
were  said  to  flow  so  rapidly  over  their  rocky 
bcils,  that  the  water  became  heated. 

In  18.")n,  Colonel  Kaynolds,  of  tho  United 
States  C<)rps  of  Engineers,  pas.sed  entirely 
around  the  Yellowstftne  Basin.  He  intended 
going  to  tlie  head  of  the  Yellow.stoue,  and  down 
the  river,  and  across  to  the  three  forks  of  tha 
Missouri,  but  was  unable  to  carry  out  his  plans. 
In  18(5!l.  a  party  under  Cook  and  FoLsorn,  visited 
Yellowstone  Lake  and  the  Gejrser  Basins  of  tha 
Matli.son,  but  no  report  of  their  trip  wa.s  pub- 
lish^'d. 

The  first  trustworthy  accounts  given  of  the  re- 
gion, were  the  result  of  an  expedition  led  by 
Geueral    Washburn,    the    Survcyor-deneral    of 


-   V'l 


ur 


V 


162 


Montana,  and  escorted  by  a  small  body  of  U.  S. 
Cavalry,  under  Lieut.  G.  C.  Doane,'  in  1870. 
Xhey  spout  about  a  month  in  the  intpreHting 
i)calities  on  the  Yellowstone  and  Madison  Kiv- 
ers,  and  Mr.  N.  1'.  Langford  made  the  results  of 
tae  exploration  known  to  the  world,  in  two  ar- 
fc  iles  published  in  the  second  volume  of  Scrib- 
ner'i  Magazine.  Lieutenant  Doane  also  made  a 
report  to  the  War  Department,  which  was  pub- 
lished by  the  government.  (Ex.  Doc,  JS'o.  dl, 
41st  Congress). 

n  1871,  a  large  and  thoroughly  organized  party 
made  a  systematic  survey,  under  the  ausi)ices  of 
the  Department  of  the  Interior,  conducted  by  Dr. 
Ilayden,  United  States  CJeologist.  He  was  accom- 
panied, also,  by  a  small  party,  under  Brevet  C"oL 
John  W.  Barlow,  Chief  Engineer  of  the  Mili- 
tary Department  of  the  Missouri,  who  was  sent 
out  by  General  Sheridan. 

Thiough  the  accurate  and  detailed  ref  .)rts  of 
that  exploration,  the  wonders  of  the  Yell-Avstone 
became  widely  known,  both  at  home  and  abroad. 

In  February,  ly72,  the  Cimgre.'.sof  the  United 
States  passed  an  act  reserving  an  area  of  about 
3,400  square  miles,  in  the  north-western  corner 
of  Wyoming  Territory,  and  intruding  inutially 
upon  Montana,  withdrawing  it  from  settlement, 
occupancy,  or  sale,  under  the  laws  of  the  United 
States  ;  dedicating  and  setting  it  apart  as  a  pub- 
lic Park,  or  pleasuring  ground,  for  the  benefit 
and  enjoyment  of  the  people. 

It  extends  from  the  44tli  to  the  45th  parallel 
of  latitude,  and  from  the  UOtli  meridian  to  a 
short  distance  beyond  the  111th.  Its  general 
elevation  is  high;  averaging  about  6,000  feet;  or 
nearly  the  height  of  Mount  Washington,  in  the 
White  Mountains.  The  Mountain  Ranges  have 
a  general  elevation  from  i»,000  to  10,000  feet 
above  sea  level,  although  many  sharp  and  rug- 
ged peaks  rise  considerably  abovi;  this.  The 
country  is  so  elevatt.'d  that  it  could  scarcely  ever 
beavailaltle  fo;- agrieultiual  purposes.  The  win- 
ter extends  far  int<j  the  spring,  and  it  is  jio  un- 
usual thing  to  find  snow  covering  September's 
flowers. 

During  July  and  August  the  weather  is  de- 
lightful ;  thti  thermoiui'ter  rarely,  if  ever,  rising 
higher  than  70'^  Fahrenheit.  In  the  early  morn- 
ing, however,  it  often  records  2(i^ ;  and  some- 
times falls  as  low  as  lO''  or  12'*.  The  air  is  so 
dry  and  invigorating  that  the  cold  is  not  felt  as 
much  as  higher  temi)eratures  are,  in  the  moistcr 
eastern  climate. 

Near  the  north-east  corner  of  the  Park,  heads 
Clarke's  Fork,  of  the  Yellowstone.  From  the 
south-west,  .Snake  River,  or  Lewis'  Fork  of  the 
Columbia,  starts  toward  the  Pacific  ;  while  on 
the  western  si(lt»,  the  Madison  and  Gallatin 
Rivv,"s,  two  of  the  three  branches  that  unite  to 
form  'he  Missouri,  have  th  'ir  oiigiu. 

We  can  climb  a  low  ridge  and  .see  the  water 
flowing  beneath  our  feet ;  the  streams  on  one  side 


destined  to  mingle  with  the  mighty  Pacific,  and. 
periiaps,  to  lave  the  shores  of  China  and  Japan; 
while  those  on  the  other,  flow  down  the  Miss(nni 
and  Mississippi  llivers.  to  be  lost  eventually  in 
the  great  Atlantic.  Who  knows  but  that  diops 
of  water,  starting  here  in  opposite  directions, 
may  some  day  meet  on  an  opj.)osite  quarter  of 
the  globe? 

The  largest  mass  of  water  in  the  Park  is  tli.- 
Yellowstone  Lake,  which  lies  near  the  soiilh- 
eastern  corner  of  the  Park,  from  the  upper  pint 
of  which  the  Y'^ellowstone  River  flows  in  a  north- 
erly direction,  and  after  a  course  of  1,;J00  mili  >, 
reaches  the  Missouri,  having  descended  about 
7,000  feet.  TIiu.t  we  havit  here  the  heads,  or 
sources,  of  two  of  the  largest  rivers  of  tl;e  Conti- 
lu'ut,  rising  in  close  proximity  to  each  otln'v. 
The  divides,  or  water-sheds  between  them,  an- 
comparatively  low,  and  sometimes  it  is  ditiicnlt 
to  say  in  which  direction  the  water  flow.- ; 
whether  to  the  Pacific,  or  to  the  Atlantic. 

Tlie  Yellowstone  Valley.— 01  the  Yello\f 
stone  Valley,  Rev.  Edwin  Stanley,  in  his  well 
written  "Rambles  in  Wonderland,"  declaro 
"  that  no  such  cluster  of  wonders  is  exliibitiA 
elsewhere  in  the  world.  Let  us  imagine  our- 
selves for  once  standing  in  a  central  position, 
where  we  can  see  every  geyser  in  the  basin.  It 
is  aa  extra  occasion,  and  they  are  all  out  on 
parade,  and  all  playing  at  once.  There  is  good 
Old  Faitliful,  always  rea''y-  for  lier  part,  doin;,' 
her  best — the  two-by-t^  e-feet  column  playinf; 
to  a  height  of  150  feec — perfect  in  all  the  ele- 
ments of  geyser-action.  Yonder  the  Beehive  is 
sending  up  its  {n*aceful  column  200  feet  heaven- 
ward, while  the  Giantess  is  just  in  the  huumr, 
and  is  making  a  gorgeous  disjilay  of  its,  say, 
ten-feet  volume  to  an  altitude  of  250  feet.  In 
the  meantime  the  old  Castle  answers  the  sum- 
mons, and,  putting  on  its  strengtli  with  alarm- 
ing detonations,  is  belching  forth  a  gigantic 
volume  seventy  feet  above  its  crater;  wlido  ov<  r 
there,  just  above  the  saw -mill,  which  is  rallying' 
all  its  force  to  the  exhibition,  rustling  about 
and  spurting  upward  its  six-iueh  jot  with  as 
much  self-importance  as  if  it  were  the  ouly 
geyser  in  the  basin,  we  see  the  Grand,  by  ii 
more  than  ordinary  effort,  overtoi^ping  all  tho 
rest  with  its  heaven-ascending,  graceful  volume, 
300  feet  in  the  air.  Just  below  hero  the  River- 
side, the  Comet,  the  comi)licated  and  fasciuut- 
ing  Fantad,  and  the  curiously-wrought  Grotto, 
are  all  chiming  in,  and  the  grand  old  Giant,  tho 
chief  of  the  basin,  nt)t  to  be  left  beliiud,  or  by 
any  one  out<lone,  is  towering  up  with  its  six- 
feet  fountain,  swaying  in  the  bright  sunlight  iit 
an  elevation  of  250  feet. " 

This  whole  region  was,  in  comparatively 
modem  geological  times,  the  scene  of  tho  most 
wonderful  volcanic  acrtivity  of  any  portion  of 
our  country.  Tho  hot  springs  and  geysers  roj)- 
rcsont  tho  last  stages — tho  vents  or  escape  pipe* 


163 


ghty  racific,  and. 
'Iiiiui  and  .luiiaii; 
own  tlte  Missouri 
lost  oventually  iu 
vs  l>iit  that  <!i()iw 
•jHKsite  tliroctii'p.s. 
)j)osito  quarter  of 

in  the  Park  is  tli.' 
I  near   the   soiKli- 
ini  the  upper  part 
■r  tiowa  iu  a  nortli- 
rse  of  1,:J00  niiits, 
■   descended  iibmit 
lere   the  heads.  <  i 
•iver.'«  of  the  Coiiti- 
ity  to  eacli   othi'r. 
lu'tweeu  tlioni.  aie 
inios  it  is  ditliciilt 
tliii    water    How.-; 
It'  Atlantic, 
f/.— Of  theYello^f 
anley,  in  his  wcH 
ilerland,"  deckni 
)nder8  is  exhibitiA 
b  us  imagine  onr- 
i  central  position, 
er  in  the  hasin.    It 
cy  are  all  out  ou 
ice.     There  is  gooil 
or  her  part,  doing 
't  column  playing 
[ect  in  all  the  de- 
ader the  Beehive  is 
Inn  200  feet  heaven- 
hust  in  the  humor, 
[display  of  its,  sav, 
o  of  250  feet.     In 
answers  the  auui- 
cngth  with  alarm- 
forth  ft  gigantic 
[h  crater;  while  over 
.1,  which  is  rallyiiitr 
on,  rustling  about 
x-inch  jet  with  as 
it  were  the  only 
,  the  Grand,  hyii 
overtopping  all  tbo 
ig,  graceful  vol  uni*', 
low  here  the  liivcr- 
ated  and  fasciiu.t- 
.y-wronght  Grott  ct, 
fand  old  Giant,  tlio 
left  behind,  or  hy 
,g  up  with  its  six- 
brigUt  sunlight  nt 

in  comparativt'ly 
)  scene  of  the  most 

of  any  portion  of 
kgs  and  geysers  roii- 
buts  or  escape  pil>«» 


.—of  these  remarkable  T^olcanic  manifestations 
of  the  internal  forces.  All  these  springs  are 
lulomed  with  decorations  more  beautiful  than 
human  art  ever  conceived,  and  which  liave  re- 
quired thousands  of  years  for  the  cunning 
hand  of  Nature  to  form.  It  is  probable  that 
♦luring  the  Pliocene  period,  the  entire  country, 
drained  by  the  sources  of  the  Yellowstone  and 
the  Colorado,  was  the  scene  of  volcanic  activity 
!i8  great  as  that  of  anv  portion  of  the  globe. 
Hundreds  of  the  nuclei  or  cones  of  these  vents 
are  now  remaining,  some  of  thorn  rising  to  a 
heifjht  of  10,000  to  11,000  feet  above  the  sea. 

Starting  from  Bozemau,  or  Fort  Ellis — three 
miles  from  the  former  place,  and  one  of  the 
mi-st  important  military  posts  in  the  West,  pro- 
tecting, as  it  does,  tho»  rich  agricultural  Galla- 
tin Valley  from  the  incursions  of  the  Indians — 
we  follow  iij)  a  small  branch  of  the  East  Gal- 
latin, through  a  i)icture8q'ie  canon,  in  which 
the  road  crosses  and  recrosses  the  stream  many 
times,  in  the  seven  miles  of  its  length. 

I'roni  the  head  of  tliis  creek  we  cross  a  low 
saddle  to  Trail  Creek,  down  which  we  proceed  to 
the  valley  of  the  Yellowstone.  Long  before  we 
roach  it  our  ey  js  are  greeted  with  the  summits  of 
one  of  the  most  symmetrical  and  remarkable 
ranges  to  be  seen  in  the  West;  the  Snowy  Yel- 
lowstone Range,  standing  ou  the  eastern  side  of 
the  river.  Sharp,  jagged  peaks  and  pyramidal 
masses  stand  out  boliUy  against  the  sky,  their 
sno\v-cro«'ued  heads  glittering  in  the  sunlight. 

As  we  come  into  the  valley,  tua  first  view  is 
i^riiwd  and  picturesque.  The  vista  extends  for 
thirty  miles  along  the  viver  ;  on  the  opposite  side 
the  mountains  rise  magnificently.  Emigrant 
Peak,  10,(52!)  feet  alx)ve  sea  level  and  nearly 
•),(K)i)  feet  above  the  valley,  stands  at  the 
liead  of  the  range,  and  from  its  melting  snows 
are  fed  numerous  streams  that  water  the  hills 
and  plains,  sloping  to  the  river. 

Altout  40  miles  from  Rozemim  we  reach  Bo- 
U'ler's  llancho.  For  a  long  time,  the  Boteler 
lirothcrs  were  the  pioneers  of  civilization  in  this 
vejfion,  and  they  have,  with  true  liberality,  en- 
tertained numerous  parties  on  tiieir  way  to  the 
.>priuj,'s  and  lake. 

From  Boteler's  to  the  Second  Canon,  a  distance 
of  alioiit  10  miles,  the  road  keeps  on  the  west 
side  of  the  river,  skirting  the  base  of  low  vol- 
canii!  iiills. 

Tiie  Second  Canon  stands  at  the  head  of  the 
valley  we  have  just  de.st-ribtMl.  It  is  r.  gorge  less 
than  a  mile  in  length,  cut  in  granitic  rocks,  which 
rise  |>recipit<)usly  on  either  side  for  a  thousand 
feet  or  more.  The  road  hero  i  •  really  hewn  from 
the  rock.  The  river,  of  ,i  beautiful  green  color, 
rushes  furiously  through  the  narrow  pass,  broken 
into  foam-capped  waves  by  the  rocks,  which  seem 
t'l  di-iimte  its  right  of  way.  One  of  the  most 
ajfreeable  feo^u'c-  of  tlie  canon,  and  one  --Iso 
Vtliio.i  i3  not  con  rill'  1  to  it,  is  the  abundance  oi 


troat  waiting  to  be  drawn  from  its  pools  and 
eddies. 

Above  the  canon  the  valley  widens,  and  we 
pass  over  a  sage  brush  covered  bottom  for  about 
ten  miles,  to  the  next  point  of  interest,  the 
"Devil's  Slide,"  at  Cinnaoar  Mountain.  This 
curious  freak  of  nature  is  somewhat  like  the 
Slide  in  Weber  Canon,  on  the  Union  Pacific 
Railroad,  but  is  on  a  much  larger  scale.  Two 
parallel  walls  of  rock,  each  50  feet  wide  and  300 
feet  high,  extend  from  the  summit  of  the  mount- 
ain to  its  base.  They  are  separated  about  150 
feet ;  the  rock  between,  and  on  both  sides,  hav- 
ing been  removed  by  erosion.  Their  sides  are  as 
even  as  if  worked  with  line  and  plumb.  On 
either  side  of  the  main  slide  are  smaller  ones, 
and  in  one,  is  a  bright  red  band,  20  feet  wide, 
extending  from  the  top  to  the  bottom,  about 
1,500  feet.  From  this  red  band  of  clav,  which 
was  mistaken  for  cinnabar,  was  given  the  name 
Cinnaljar  Mountain.  The  earlier  explorers  of 
these  regions,  the  mountaineers  and  trappers, 
were  evidently  inii)re8sed  with  the  novelty  of  the 
piienomena,  and  seem  to  have  dedicated  many  of 
the  localities  with  satanic  names,  which  from 
their  fitness,  are  not  likely  to  be  superseded. 
Thus  we  have  "Devil's  Slide;"  "Hell  Roaring 
River ;  "  "  Fire-IIole  Prairie ;  "  "  Devil's  Glen," 
etc. 

Alwve  Cinnabar  Mountain  the  valley  is  more 
bi-oken  ;  and  we  cross  several  ridges,  strewn 
with  boulders  of  dark  volcanic  rocks,  obsidian 
chiixs,  and  beautiful  specimens  of  chalcedony 
and  semi-opal. 

Six  miles  above  the  slide,  we  come  to  the  foot 
of  the  Third  Canon,  where  tht  Yellowstone  is 
joined  by  Gardiner's  River,  or  Warm  Spring 
Creek,  as  it  was  originally  cajled.  Here  we 
leave  the  river  to  visit  one  of  the  crowning  won- 
ders of  the  region. 

T/te  MatHiHoth  White  Mounfain  Hot 
Spriuf/i*. — This  gi'oup  of  springs,  is  one  of  the 
most  remarkable  within  the  limivs  of  the  Na- 
tional Park,  and  as  far  as  is  known,  has  not  its 
equal  in  grandeur  in  the  world.  Tie  Te  Tarata 
Spring  oi  New  Zealand,  is  the  ne.?  rest  approach 
to  it  in  appearance,  but  the  formation  is  of 
a  different  character;  the  (Jardiner's  River 
Springs  deixisiting  calcareous  material,  while 
that  in  New  Zealand  is  siliceous,  like  the  deiwsits 
in  the  geyser  region  of  Iceland,  and  iu  our  (jwn 
geyser  basins,  at  the  head  of  the  Madison.  The 
exploring  partv  of  187C.  did  not  discover  these 
springs,  and  tfie  Ilayden  Exploring  Expedition 
of  1871,  was  the  first  origan  ized  party  that  ever 
visited  them. 

Leaving  the  Yellowstone,  wc  keep  some  300 
or  400  feet  above  the  level  of  the  river  for  a 
couple  of  miles,  passing  severa'  small  lakes, 
when  w~  descend  to  th^  bank  ot  Gardiner's 
liiver,  on  the  eastern  side  of  which  is  a  high 
bluff  of  cretiu;eous  sandstones  capped  with  a 


^:i 


mjsi 


J 


h; 


:| 


i 


fl 


N>4 


ft 


i 


KTS.  UAVOEN  AMD  UOBAN. 


kyer  of  volcanic  rock.  On  the  edge  of  tlie 
'/ream,  w«  i>ass  over  a  hard,  'ialcarcoiis  crust, 
In  which  wt*  fin<l  sev«ral  warm  spriii^js.  At  ono 
point  we  pans  a  conHiderublc  stream  of  hot  watt^', 
revealed  dv  th«  clonds  of  steam  rising  from 
ill ,  ilowing  from  beneath  the  crust  into  the  river. 
Turning  to  the  right,  we  ascend  the  hill,  made 
«l  Um  lame  calcareous  dpiwsit,  which  gives  forth 


a  lioUow  sound  heneath  the  tread  of  our  hor^a 
This  liill  must  have  been  the  scene  of  luuu 
springs  ages  ago.  Now,  however,  the  di)' isit 
has  crumbled,  and  is  overgrown  with  piiu'.-. 
The  springs  once  were  nnieh  more  numornu-i 
and  far  more  active  than  at  present. 

Ascen«ling  the  hill,  and  turning  to  the  left,  wa 
come  suddenly  ni^n  the  marvelous  scene.    B» 


ff 


165 


■IS 


fo.c  us  stands  one  of  tlie  finest  of  nature's  arclii- 
tfcliiral  efforts,  in  a  mass  of  snowy  white  de- 
posits, 200  feet  high.  Jt  has  tliu  appearance  of 
some  grand  cascade  that  has  been  suddenly  ar- 
rested in  its  descent,  and  frozen.  Tlie  springs 
:ire  arranged  on  a  series  of  terraces,  tliat  rise  one 
al)Ove  the  ether  like  steps.  There  are  fourteen 
o I  these  terraces  with  active  springs,  and  others 
ill  which  they  are  extinct. 

The  deposits  extend  from  the  level  of  Gar- 
diner's River,  to  the  head  of  a  gorge  1,000  feet 
liigher,  a  distance  of  over  0,000  f<u>t.  The 
a  tea  occupied  by  it,  including  the  extinct  basins, 
is  about  three  stpia   ;  miles. 

The  lowest  terrace  is  Hat,  and  its  basins  are 
vtTV  shallow  and  destitute  of  water.  From  their 
midst  rises  the  "  Liberty  Cap,"  a  conical  mass 
about  50  feet  high,  composed  of  calcareous 
s'diment.  The  principal  springs  are  contained 
i  i  t!ie  mass  extending  from  the  scoontl  to  the 
tivelfth  terraces,  inclusive.  Here  the  basins  are 
most  perfect,  surrounded  with  beautiful  scal- 
loped edges.  The  water  falls  from  the  up](('r 
liasins  to  the  lower,  becoming  cooler  as  it  tlc- 
sci'.nds,  so  that  water  of  almost  any  temperature 
m;iy  be  found  in  which  to  bathe.  At  tlii'  head 
of  the  gulch  are  several  mounds,  in  which  there 
are  miniature  geysers.  Tlu'  s]>rings  an;  changing 
Inim  yea«"  'o  year;  dying  out  in  some  places,  and 
breaking  out  in  others. 

Toward  the  head  of  (lardincr's  Hiver  are 
several  beautiful  cascades,  and  the  scenery  in 
ill'  vicinity  of  the  springs  is  varied  and  beauti- 
iiiL  We  must  wend  our  way  up  the  river  in 
search  of  new  wonders.  We  can  follow  either  of 
two  trails ;  one  up  the  Yellowstone  Kiver,  and 
the  other  up  (Jardiner's  Kiver.  Both  trails 
eventually  unite,  and  lead  us  to  the  mouth  of 
till'  East  Fork  of  the  Yelhnvstone,  about  L'O 
miles  from  Gardiner's  Kiver.  A  trijmp  the  Kast 
J'\)rk  will  repay  the  tourist.  The  .scenery  is 
irand  beyond  description.  At  the  extreme 
."uirces  is  a  chaotic  mass  of  peaks,  from  the 
water.9hed  between  the  'vist  Fork,  and  Cllarke's 
F>rk.  We  ])ass  by  th  cdiie  of  nn  extinct 
g'vser,  aid  .Vmethyst  Mountain,  on  whose  sum- 
mit may  be  fouiuii  beautiful  amethyst  crystals 
itnbeddea  in  volcanic  rocks. 

Tower  (U'feh  ami  Faffs. — Tower  CrecK 
i>  about  thret'  miles  above  the  bridge  that  crosses 
the  Yeilow.stone,  lu-nr  the  mouth  of  the  East 
Fork.  The  trail  keeps  on  the  west  side  of  the 
river,  and  reaches  the  creek  a  short  <listance 
.iliove  the  fall,  which  is  one  of  the  most  pi.iur- 
esipie  ill  th((  Park.  'I'ower  Creek  is  a  swift 
luountain  torrent,  which,  breaking  into  rapids, 
suddenly  dashes  over  a  ledge  of  rock  and  falls 
ill  one  clean  sweep  l.i6  feet,  to  a  rounded  basin, 
t:it  from  the  solid  rock,  and  then  hurries  on 
til  rough  a  short  canon,  to  join  the  Yellowstone. 
Hie  rocks  alKtiit  the  fall  have  been  so  eroded  as 
to  leave  tower-like  ina.sses,  from  r)0  to  100  feet 


high.  Two  of  them  stand  on  either  side,  at  the 
edge  of  the  fall,  like  huge  giants.  Let  us  ascend 
one.  Hold  on  tightly,  and  look  down.  The 
(idgt!  of  the  fall  is  lull  100  feet  below,  and  the 
foot  l.")(!  feet  farther.  There  are  a  few  iinim- 
jwrtant  sulphur  springs  on  the  river,  and  opjx)- 
sitt;  the  falls  are  Column  Rocks,  ex])o,sed  in  a 
blutt"  ;M0  feet  high.  There  are  three  rows  of 
basaltic  columns  from  15  to  ;50  fet-t  high;  the 
beds  between  are  infiltrated  with  sulphur,  giving 
them  a  bright  yellow  color.  A  short  distance 
above  the  mouth  of  'i'ower  Creek,  is  the  lower 
end  of  the  "  Grand  Canon  "  of  the  Y'ellowstone, 
and  the  trail  now  leaves  the  riven'  to  pass  around 
the  wt'stern  base  of  Mount  Washburn.  'J'his  is 
one  of  the  highest  peaks  in  the  lu'ighborhood, 
rising  10,;{.SH  feet  above  sea  level.  An  hour's  ride 
will  take  the  traveler  to  its  summit,  from  which 
a  view  of  the  country  in  every  direction  is  com- 
manded, which  well  rejjays  one  the  tedious  climb. 
At  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  on  the  south-east- 
ern side,  is  a  group  of  mud  and  suljihur  sj)rings 
uliieb  have  been  called  the  "  Hell  Broth  S]nings." 
To  reach  them,  th(^  best  way  is  to  camp  a  little 
more  than  a  mile  from  the  top  of  the  range,  on 
a  small  stream  which  is  followed  for  about  a 
mile.  A  plain  trail  leads  from  the  springs  to  the 
falls  of  the  Yellowstone,  which  will  l>e  our  next 
stopjiing  place.  The  best  camjnng  places  are  on 
Cascaile  Creek,  about  18  miles  from  'J'ower 
('reek.  This  small  stream  is  parallel  to  the  Yel- 
lowstone for  the  greatfu-  jmrt  of  its  course,  al- 
th'  igh  flowing  in  the  opfwsite  direction,  a  Jittle 
over  a  mil«^  from  the  riv<'r.  It  soon  turns  at 
right  angles  and  joins  the  river  about  midway 
between  the  I'pper  and  Lower  Falls.  Just  be- 
fore it  reaches  the  main  stream  it  )>asses  through 
a  deeji  and  gloomy  gorge,  where  it  breaks  into  a 
ca.scadti  of  exceeding  beauty  called  "  Crystal 
Falls."  Its  lieight  is  129  feet.  The  water  first 
fails  but  five  feet,  and  then  down  it  gocss  fifteen 
feet,  falling  into  a  beautiful  rounded  basin  in 
which  the  clear  water  is  perfectly  placid.  From 
this  basin  the  final  leap  over  the  rocky  ledges  is 
taken. 

Fttfts  of  tlie  YfffoirHfoitc  and  Grtind 
Cattoti. — No  language  can  do  justice  to  the 
wonderful  grand(Mir  and  beauty  of  the  Grand 
Canon.  In  some  respects  it  is  the  grtuitest  won- 
der of  all. 

It  is  a  gorge  carved  by  the  river  in  volcanic 
rocks,  to  a  flepth  increasing  from  nearly  a  thou- 
sand feet  to  over  two  thousand.  Its  length  is 
aUuit  thirty  miles.  The  walls  are  inclined  from 
4.")^  to  80°,  and  in  many  places  become  verticaL 
They  are  ei-oded  into  towers,  s]>ires,  and  min- 
arets. The  striking  feature  of  the  remarkable 
view  is  the  brilli:tuey  of  the  colors.  The  pure 
whites  of  the  deconiiKXsing  feldspar  are  mingled 
with  sulphur  yellow.s.  and  streaked  with  bands  of 
bright  red,  colored  with  iron.  Dense  june  forests 
exteml  to  the  edge  of  the  canon.     At  the  bottom 


i  ■  iiii  < 
'i  fix 


iii;1 


•  ll 


:j 


f 


106 


WBB  PsiCiFia  wo^miSF, 


of  the  chasm  is  tlie  river, 
boiliiifi;  uiul  surging  as 
it  goes.  Tlie  dcscont  to 
the  edge  is  best  acconi- 
plisliwl  on  tlie  eastern 
side,  Ileaciiing  the  bot- 
tom, we  hear  nothing  aave 
the  distant  timuder  of 
tlie  fall  and  the  roaring 
of  the  water  as  the  furi- 
ously ar^itated  waves  dash 
against  the  solid  rock 
at  our  feet,  seeming  to  pro- 
test against  their  impris- 
onment. At  the  top,  the 
tall  pines  form  a  green 
margin  to  the  rocky 
walls. 

On  the  right  side  near 
the  verge  of  the  wall, 
is  a  collection  of  springs, 
mostly  mud  springs,  in 
which  the  mud  is  of  vary- 
ing consistency. 

At   the    head    of    the 
canon,  are  the  Lower  or 
Great  Falls  of  the  Yellow- 
stone.     Long  before  we 
reach  the  brink,  we  hear 
the    suppressed    roar, 
resembling  distant  thun- 
der.    The  best  views  are 
obtained    from    a    ]X)int 
on    the    canon    wall,    a 
quarter    of    a    mile   far- 
ther down,  and  from  the 
brink    of    the    precipice 
over     which    tlie     river 
plunges.    Let  us  approach 
and   look    over.      Down, 
down    goes     the     whirl- 
ing mass,   writhing   and 
battling  with  the  rocks, 
against   which  it  dashes 
with  a  noise  like  the  dis- 
charge of  heavy  artill(My. 
resisting  rock  is  met,  and  the  water  rebounds, 
broken   into  myriads  of   drops,  which   throw 
back  to  us  the  sunlight  resolved  into  its  primi- 
tive colors.     The  bottom  reached,  the  column 
breaks  into  an  immense  cloud  of  spray,  whose 
moisture  nourishes  the  vegetation  on  the  walls 
near  the  fall.    The  river,  before  it  |)ours  over 
the  edge,  narrows   to  about  a  hundred  feet. 
The   height  of  the   fall    lias    been   variously 
given.     The  measurement  with  a  line  in  1870, 
gave  ;J50  feet  as  the  result.     Triaugulation  from 
a  base  line  on  the  edge  of  the  canon,  by  the 
Geological  Survey  in  1872,  imwle  it  397  feet, 
and  a  barometrical  measurement  in   1873,  by 
Captain  Jones,  made  it  328.7  feet. 

The  Upper  Falls  are  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 


m 


ABOK^DINO  Till  OI.ACIKU8  OF  MT.  HAVDKM. 


167 


.I'y'  .  ''1 


LOWER  FALLS  OF  THE  YELLOWSTONE. 


above  thn  Txjwer  Falls.  Between  lliem.  the 
fiver  is  in  a  ration  whose  deptli  is  from  KKt  to 
'i(MI  feet.  Near  the  Lower  Fails  it  is  a  sneces- 
sion  of  rapids.  'Die  two  falls  are  very  unlike, 
l>ut  equally  interestinir,  tiie  I'piier  perhaps  not 
ptRsessinp  as  much  of  grandeur  as  tiit!  L 


UAVDEM. 


The  height  of  the  former  is  140  feet. 


lower. 
The  river 


aliove  is  liroken  into  rajiids,  and,  reaehing  the 
eilj,"'.  tlie  entire  volume  of  water  seems  to  be 
hurled  otf  th(!  preeipiee  with  territic  force,  so 
that  tlie  mass  is  l)roken  into  most  beautiful 
snow-whit<!  drops,  ])resentinj!;,  at  a  distarce,  the 
appearance  of  snowy  foam.  Midway  in  its 
de.sceut  a  ledge  of  rock  is  met  with,  wiiich  car- 


y. :  /i 


mm 


I  {&:u 


i  * 


.1- 


168 


FMM  ^itCIFiC  WOWtmW. 


h  if; 


■iiii 


it 


% 


ries  it  away  from  tliH  vertical  1»ase  of  the  preci- 
pice. The  water  Ims  worn  u  ciroiilar  basin  in 
the  hard  rock.  From  any  iK)int.  the  vit.-w  is 
striking  and  picture.s(iiie.  What  it  lacks  in  snl>- 
liniity  )s  compensated  lor  by  its  beauty. 

iU'Uter  mUt*  ami  Sliiil  I'ldvaiUM's. — 
Leaving  tlie  falls,  the  trail  leads  us  up  the  river, 
and  soon  brings  us  out  into  a  level  prairif 
I'oui.try,  through  which  the  Yellowstone  tlows 
I)eacefully  betwwn  low,  verdant  banks,  and  over 
pebbly    bottt)ms,     or    treacherous    quicksands, 

;iving  no   intimation   of  its    struggles    below. 

iVe  seem  to  have  left  everythiug  teirific  and 
diabolic  behind  us.  Stoi)ping  to  drink  at  a 
beautiful  looking  creek,  w(f  find  it  iinpn-gnaU'd 
with  alum.  This  is  Alum  Creek,  which  has  its 
source  in  thfi  springs  about  Crater  Hills,  six 
miles  above  the  falls.  The  best  camping  place 
will  be  found  three  miles  farther  on,  at  Alud 
Vo'canoes,  from  which  ixjiut  the  springs  in  this 
j)art  of  the  valley  can  be  visite<l.  They  are 
found  on  both  sides  of  the  rivtr.  At  the  he.vd  of 
some  of  the  branches  of  Warm  Sjiring  (-'reek,  are 
sulphur  and  mud  springs,  and  on  the  eastern  side 

'*  the  river,  numerous  mud  springs  are  found. 

Crossing  Alum  Creek,  we  soon  Hud  ourselves 
ht  Crater  Ilills, — two  high  conical  wliite  hills, 
about  200  feet  high,  around  the  base  of  which 
are  hot  springs  and  steam  jets.  One  of  the 
latter  is  called  the  "  locomotive  Jet "  from  tlie 
•loise  made  by  the  escaping  steam.  The  princi- 
l)al  spring  is  the  "IJoiling  Sulphur  Spring." 
It  is  about  12  feet  in  diameter,  and  encircled  by 
a  beautifully  encrusted  collar-like  rim.  The 
water  is  constantly  agitated,  rising  from  three  to 
four  feet  aliove  the  basin  like  some  huge  caldron. 
Crossing  through  a  narrow  belt  of  timber,  a 
short  distance  east  of  this  spring,  we  come  upon 
a  group  of  active  mud  and  sulphur  springs,  all 
tasting  strongly  of  alum.  The  noise  made  by 
the  boiling  mud,  the  scream  of  the  steam  jets,  the 
plop-plop  of  the  smaller  mud-pots,  the  putling 
and  throbbing  of  the  larger  ones,  and  the  sul- 
phurous odors  that  fill  the  air,  combined  with 
the  treacherous  nature  of  the  ground  l)eneath 
US,  give  rise  to  feelings  that  are  difficult  to 
analyze. 

At  Mud  Volcanoes,  we  find  new  wonders  in 
the  ''Devil's  Caldron,"  "The  Grotto,"  "The 
Mud  Geyser,"  and  a  host  of  smaller  springs. 

'Jlie  presence  of  the  "Caldron,"  is  made 
known  by  the  immense  column  of  steam,  which 
is  continually  rising  from  it.  It  is  on  the  side 
jf  a  low  hill.  The  steam  generally  obscures  the 
view  of  the  seething  nuiss  of  hiacktsh  mud, 
wiiich  is  20  feet  below  the  surface.  'J'he  trees 
all  about  the  crater,  are  coated  with  mud  which 
it  is  8up]X)sed  has  been  ejected  during  an  erup- 
tion of  this  mud  geyser.  It  does  not  l)oil  with 
an  impulse  like  most  of  the  nnid  springs,  but 
with  a  constant  i-oar  that  shakes  the  ground 
and  may  be  lieanl  at  a  considerable  distance. 


Al)Out  2()(t  yards  from  the  "Caldron"  at  tli<- 
liead  of  the  livulet.  which  <lrains  the  grouji  of 
springs,  is  the  "  (Jrotto.  "  It  is  a  sort  ot  caxe  in 
the  rock.  The  orilice  is  alM>ut  1")  feet  high,  ami 
slo|K!s  gradually  inward  fur  alxtut  20  liii. 
From  this  cavern  at  regular  intervals  of  a  tiw 
seconds,  there  bursts  forth  a  mass  of  steam,  with 
a  pulsiition  that  causes  the  earth  to  throb,  wliil>' 
a  >nia!l  stream,  clear  as  crystal,  but  absiinjly 
<lisjiri)iK)rtionate  to  the  amount  of  noise,  tlci\v> 
from  the  mouth  of  the  cavern.  The  steam  is  xi 
hot,  thai  only  wlien  the  breeze  wafts  it  aside, 
can  we  look  into  the  opening. 

The  "Muddy  (iey«">*"  has  a  funnel-sliaiicd 
basin,  (M>  feet  in  diameter,  which  is  in  the  midst 
of  a  basin  measuring  2(H)  feet  by  150  feet — willi 
sloping  sides  of  clay  and  sand,  'i'he  flow  takes 
place  at  intervals  of  from  four  to  six  h.  (us,  last- 
ing from  twelve  to  sixteen  minutes  each.  'Die 
water,  mingled  with  mud,  rises  gradually  iiniil 
the  basin  is  filled  to  the  h^vel  of  the  brim,  win  n 
a  slight  bubbling  commences  near  the  center. 

Suddenly  it  is  thrown  into  violent  confiisiun, 
and  an  irregular  mass  of  lead  colored  mud  ami 
water  is  thrown  inUj  the  air  with  irregular  pul- 
sations. 'J'he  height  attained  is  li")  to  40  leei. 
At  the  end  of  tlie  eruption  the  water  sinks  inio 
the  fuiinel-sha|>ed  orifice,  to  go  through  the  same 
operation  in  a  tew  hours. 

Fron  a\w\  Volcanoes  we  can  go  either  to  \\w 
(ieyi^L'i  Jasiiis  of  I'lre  Hole  River,  or  to  Yellow 
stone  » ..ike.  To  the  former,  the  distance  is  al unit 
10  miles  and  to  the  latter,  only  a  little  over 
.seven  miles.  A  trail  is 'ound  on  both  sides  of 
the  river  and  late  in  the  sea.son  the  river  is  easily 
forded.  I'he  trail  on  the  eastttrii  side  will  liad 
us  to  Pelican  Creek,  Steamboat  Point,  and  Uriiii- 
stone  Basin  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  lake,  lioiii 
which  we  can  go  around  the  southern  bays  to  tiio 
Hot  Springs,  on  the  south-west  arm  of  the  lake, 
to  which  the  trail  on  the  western  side  of  liiu 
river  will  also  lead  us.  There  are  several  in- 
teresting Alud  Sjjrings,  opposite  Mud  Volcanoi.s, 
on  the  east  side  of  the  Yellowstone. 

I'flloirntom'  Lake. — This  beautiful  sheot 
of  water  is  more  than  twenty  miles  in  len;;tli 
and  fifteen  in  width.  Its  form  has  not  inaptly 
been  compared  to  that  of  an  outspread  hand  — 
the  northern  or  main  body  representing  tliti 
palm,  while  the  south-western  bay  represents  (iifi 
thumb  considerably  swollen,  the  other  bays  cor- 
responding  to  the  fingers,  two  In-ing  small,  and 
the  others  disprojxirtionattdy  large. 

The  elevation  of  the  lake,  from  measurements 
made  by  the  United  States  (Jeological  Survey, 
is  7,427  feet  above  sea  level.  Its  depth  is  fmin 
one  and  a  half  to  fifty  fathoms.  Its  shore  lino 
measures  over  three  hundred  mile.s,  presenting 
some  of  the  loveliest  shore  lines,  e.sp<!cially  ;it 
Mary's  Bay  on  the  east  side,  south  of  Steamloiit 
Point.  Here,  also,  is  Diamond  Reach,  a  bmiiil 
and  level  sand  beach  extending  for  five  mil's. 


TMM  P^eiJFIC  WQ^mST. 


\m 


m 


'I'lio  <<n'ifl  is  <M>mi»o,si!(l  of  particlt's  of  oltsidiaii 
(vfilciiiuc  1,'Iiiss)  (jUiirt/,  uihI  (•li;il<'i'(l()iiii'.s  tliiit 
:.|i;irklo  in  tlin  suiiliglit. 

'I'ln!  westtTU  si(l<'  of  tlio  lake  is  oovcnid  w  itli 
;i;ie  forests,  as  is  tlif  Koiitii<'ru  cnil,  wlioro  also 
ili'Tc  are  many  laki'lcts,  and  cousidi'ralih!  marshy 
;;i(iuii(l.  'J'licrt'  an>  no  l>i;jh  iimuntains  in  lliis 
ilin'ction,  low,  iiroad  liills  forniini^  tlic  water-shed 
lii'lAvtien  tlio  lake  and  lli<'  sonrc.'s  of  Snake 
l{iv(!r.  Onfi  can  cross  ahnost  anywliere  to  the 
Slioshone  (Jtsyser  liasin.  Tlie  eastern  si(h'  of 
(lie  lake  is  also  well  wooded,  imt  niort!  iiroken  hy 
small  open  jirairies.  'X\w  ooinitry  on  this  side 
s<K)n  rises  into  a  ^rand  mountain  ranj^e  from 
wliieh  numerous  volcanic  jx-aks  rise.  I'rominent 
juiioiifj  them  are  Mts.  Stevenson  and  Doam^ 
'I'lie  interestintj  localities  of  the  lake  on  the 
•'itcrn  side  arc  "  Uriinstone  Hasin."  "Steam 
I'cint"  an<!  "Steamboat  S|irin<,'s, "  "  Turliid 
I..ike"  and  the  Springs  of  Pelican  Creek  and 
>iiilihur  Hills.     On  the  south-western  arm  also. 


characteristic,  notwitlistandinjj  the  name.  Tlio 
period  of  greatest  activity  of  all  tlu;  springs  iiere 
IS  ])ast,  and  they  are  jjrai^nally  dyiii}^  o\it. 

'i"he  sprin>,'s  on  the  shores  of  the  south-western 
arm  of  th(^  lake,  occupy  an  area  of  al>o\it  three 
mill's  in  length,  ami  half  i:  mile  in  width.  There 
are  no  fjeysers.  Some  of  the  S]>rin^s  arc  found 
in  I'onical,  siliceous  mounds,  rising  from  the 
water  of  the  lake  near  the  shore.  One  of  these 
is  named  the  "  Kish  Pot,"  from  the  fact  that 
whilt!  stiMidiug  on  its  (-rater,  oim  may  extend  his 
tishing-rod.  catcli  trout,  and  turning,  may  c(X)k 
them  in  the  sjiring.  Aliont  four  hundred  yards 
from  the  snore  is  a  liasin  of  hoiling,  ])ink-colorcd 
mud  with  conical  mud  craters,  from  whicli  the 
mud  is  ejiicted.  'I'here  are  also  a  number  of  clear, 
flowing  springs  of  liot  water,  and  numerous 
springs  of  lioiling.  muddy  water  varying  in  color 
from  white  to  dark  yellow. 

The  next  j)oint  of  interest  after  Yellowstone 
Lake  is  tlie  Geyser  Region  of  Fire  Hole  lliver,  or 


"'°'^. 


r  1. 


m 


VEr.LOWSTONE  LAKE. 


is  an  interesting  group  of  sju-ings.  *'  Brimstone 
Basil!  "  is  soiitli-cast  of  Steam  I'oint,  and  marks 
llieseat  of  once  active  sjirings,  evidenced  by  the 
de|Kisits.  Till-  stream  tlowing  through  them  is 
strongly  impregnated  with  alum.  At  Steam 
I'liiiit,  l)esides  \\\v  springs,  are  several  steam  jets. 
From  one  the  steam  escajies  with  ;;  noise  resr'm- 
liling  that  made  by  the  esrai>e  of  steam  from  a 
large  steamboat.  Others  resembh*  the  escape 
iif  steam  from  the  cylinders  of  a  locomotive. 
Springs  are  found  on  the  shore  of  the  lake  l)e- 
I  ween  Steam  Point  and  Pelican  Creek  anrl  along 
I  he  coiu-se  of  the  latter  stream.  At  Tiubid 
Lake,  two  miles  east  of  the  lake  and  back  of 
>team  Point,  the  springs  are  mud  springs  and 
Milphur  vents.  The  water  of  the  lake  itself  is 
made  turbid  by  the  springs  in  its  midst  and  on 
the  shores.  Siilphm-  Hills  are  between  Pelican 
<'reek   and   the    Yellowstone.      Sulphur  is  not 


the  I'pper  Madison.  From  the  prronp  of  springs, 
a  trail,  striking  nearly  due  west,  will  bring  us 
to  tile  liead  of  tlu!  "  U'p]>er  Geyser  Hasin,"  a  dis- 
tance of  alKuit  lifteen  miles.  We  may  also  keep 
more  to  the  .south  and  visit  the  geysers  of  Sho- 
shone Lake,  on  the  way,  or  we  may  return  to 
]SIii<l  Volcanoes  and  cross  to  the  Fast  Fork  of 
Firi'  Hole  Tiiver.  and  visit  the  "Lower  Geyser 
Hasin  "  first,  wliiili  is,  ]>erlia]'S.  the  best  course, 
as  the  springs  of  the  Lower  Hasin  will  seem  less 
interesting  after  the  greater  wonders  of  the 
Upper  Hasin  have  been  seen. 

flvffstet-  ItasiHH  of  Fire  IFttIr  Itirer. — 
The  geyser  basins  of  the  Upper  Madison  in- 
clude, altogether,  about  seventy-five  square  milf^R. 
In  this  area  are  thousantls  of  springs  and  gey- 
sers, ranging  in  temperature  from  ihe  boiling 
|)oint  to  cold.  Their  description  would  occupy 
the  space  of  a  volume.     Only  the  salient  features 


m 


i    • 

I 


r'lJl 


IS-*' !H 


ii    ! 


170 


rMM  ^mcinc  woMmiHT. 


can  be  Rivon  hort'.  Tlie  springs  lire  divisible 
into  three  classes  :  1st.  'J'riU'  geysers  wliieb  are 
agitated  at  stated  intervals,  and  from  wliieh  the 
water  is  pmjected.  2d.  Those  which  are  con- 
stantly agitated  or  always  boiling.  They  rarely 
Inive  ernptions;  most  of  the  mini  springs  can 
also  be  inclnded  nnder  this  division.  W\.  Those 
which  are  alwavs  trainpiil.  In  the  latter,  the 
water  is  generally  of  a  lower  temperatin'e,  and 
liiw  a  beantiful  blue  color,  or  often  a  green  tint 
like  that  of  the  beryl.  In  si)rings  of  the  very 
lowest  temjwratures  there  is  often  a  low  form  of 
gelatinous  vegetable  growth. 

Some  of  the  springs  of  the  Lower  TJasin  merit 
the  title  of  small  laki's.  They  are  divided  on 
the  maps  into  eigiit  groups.  'I^he  fir.st  is  on  the 
East  Fork;  tiie  second  is  alM>ut  a  mile  farther 
to  the  south,  and  the  third,  fourth,  and  tit'tii 
groups  still  farther  south  on  tiie  cast  side  of  the 
basin.  In  the  third  group  are  the  Foiuitain 
Geyser,  and  the  Mud  PutTs.  both  worthy  a  visit. 
In  the  fifth  group  is  the  Ariliitectural  (ieyser, 

1irob,ably   the    most    powerful    in    the   "Lower 
iasin." 

The  sixth  groun  is  on  the  main  river  above  the 
mouth  of  Fairy  tail  Creek,  the  seventh  is  on  the 
latter  stream,  and  the  eighth  on  .Sentinel  Creek, 
a  stream  joining  the  Fire  Mole  below  Fairy  Fall 
Creek.  There  are  but  about  half  a  dozen  real 
geysers  in  the  Lower  Hasin,  but  craters  are  seen 
which  must  once  have  been  active  spouters.  The 
deposits  are  silicecnis,  as  is  the  case  with  the  I'jv 
per  Basin.  There  are  nniny  places  where  t!ie 
springs  are  extinct,  nothing  remaining  save  the 
glaring  white  sediment.  The  scalloped  rims  ex- 
tending out  over  the  water,  like  cakes  of  ice,  and 
the  corrugated  sides  of  the  basins  are  exceedingly 
beautiful.  Before  leaving  the  Lower  Basin,  we 
imist  visit  Fairy  Falls,  a  very  pretty  miniature 
cascade  at  the  head  of  Fairy  Fall  Creek.  From 
the  mouth  of  the  latter  creek,  to  the  month  of 
Iron  Spring  Creek,  which  marks  the  lower  bound- 
ary of  the  L'jtper  Basin,  the  distance  is  five 
miles  in  an  air  line.  About  midway  are  the  Half- 
way .Springs.  The  principal  one  is  a  huge  cal- 
dron, 'J'H)  feet  in  diameter,  with  walls  alnjut  L'<> 
feet  high.  It  is  in  constant  agitation,  giving  off 
clouds  of  steam.  On  one  side,  the  wall  is  broken 
down,  and  thence  the  surplus  water  flows  into 
the  river,  through  numerous  channels  whose  beds 
are  lined  with  scarlet,  yellow,  and  green,  which 
contrast  boldly  with  the  white  siliceous  sinter 
surrounding  the  spring.  Farther  back  from  the 
river,  on  a  slight  eminence,  is  an  almo.st  circular 
spring,  150  feet  in  diameter.' 

Tlie  Journey  from  one  basin  to  the  other  is 
suggestive  of  the  infernal  regions.  The  trail 
keeps  near  the  river,  which  is  warm,  fed  as  it  is 
by  so  many  hot  streams.  The  ground  sounds 
hollow  imder  foot.  We  wind  in  and  out  among 
holes  from  which  steam  and  sulphurous  odors 
escape,  past  great  yawning  caverns  and  cisterns 


of  bubbling,  seething  water  and  nnul.  The  air 
is  fidl  of  strange  noises,  and  we  feel  as  thoiiyli 
we  were  on  ilangerous  ground,  through  wliirji 
we  nuiy  break  at  any  moment  and  descend  to 
flames  beneatji.  Again  we  pass  pools  of  trans- 
luct'iit  water,  in  whose  azure  depths  we  can  imt 
see  the  bottom  of  the  siliceous  basins. 

We  also  cross  boiling  streams  which  flow  ovir 
hard  beds  colored  green,  vellow,  and  red.  fioiii 
the  dejKisition  of  mineral  ingredients  by  the 
evaiK)ration  of  the  water. 

I'lUH'V  (leiiMff  IUihIii, — The  l'i)j>er  (ieyser 
Basin  has  been  called  the  (Jreat  Basin,  b«'cau,se 
it  contains  the  princij>al  geysers.  It  is  abnut 
two  miles  long,  and  will  prouably  average  hall' 
a  mile  in  width.  The  best  view  is  obtainxl 
from  the  crater  of  "Old  Faithful,"  at  the  uppir 
end.  Through  the  Lower  Basin  the  course  of 
the  river  is  almost  due  north,  while  in  the  upj«r. 
it  ''  ws  west  of  north.  Its  banks  are  made  df 
ge\,.rite,  the  siliceous  deiKisit  of  the  spriiig>. 
whicli  is  literally  honeycombed  with  springs.  |hh.N 
ami  geysers,  that  are  constantly  gurgling,  t-yw- 
ting,  steaming,  roaring,  and  exi'loding.  To  di- 
.scribe  all  the  geysers  wbuld  require  more  spare 
than  can  be  spared,  and  I  will  therefore  nl'  i 
only  to  the  principal  ones,  hoping  the  reader  will 
take  the  trip  and  see  the  wonders  of  the  Yellow- 
stone for  himself,  which  is  really  the  only  wiy 
in  which  they  can  be  appreciated,  for  any  <li- 
scriptioii  must  always  fall  short  of  the  reality. 
Entering  the  Tjiper  Basin  from  the  north,  w 
pass  a  series  of  rapids  at  the  upper  end  of  wliic  li 
we  enter  the  gateway,  as  it  were,  guarded  by  t\\  • 
sentinel  geysers,  one  on  either  side  of  the  rivei  ; 
that  on  the  left  being  the  most  active. 

Following  the  river  fiu-  about  two  hundred  ami 
fifty  yards,  we  reach  the  "Fan  Gey.ser,"  win n- 
there  are  several  orifices  from  which  the  wat'  r 
radiates,  the  streams  crossing  «'ach  other  and 
producing  a  fan-shaped  eruption.  A  short  di- 
tanco  above,  on  tlu'  oj>p.osite  side  of  the  river.  i< 
the  "  (Jrotto  tJeyser  "  which  is  easily  recognized 
by  the  |>eculiar  form  of  its  crater,  from  which  it 
takt'S  its  name.  There  are  two  orifices,  tli 
]irincipal  one  being  in  the  larger  and  more  irre^'- 
ular  mound,  which  is  eight  feet  high,  while  tli-' 
.smaller  one  is  only  four  feet  high.  The  inter- 
val between  its  eruptions  is  unknown.  It  throws 
a  column  of  water  and  steam  from  A()  to  60  feet 
alMJve  its  crater.  Several  hundred  yards  fartlnr 
back  from  the  river,  south-west  from  the  "  (Jrotto. " 
are  the  "  Pvrami<l."  "  Punch  liowl,"  "  Bath  Tub. " 
and  "  Black  Sand  "  Geysers. 

The  "(iiant"  is  alnnit  400  feet  south-east  ot 
the  "Grotto."  It  has  a  rough,  cone-like  crater, 
ten  feet  high,  with  one  side  l)roken  down.  The 
orifice  from  which  the  water  is  exjK-lled  is  about 
five  feet  in  diameter.  This  curious  crater  is  near 
the  river's  edge,  on  a  platform  of  dejwsit  measur- 
ing 342  yards  in  circumference.  It  has  seldom 
l>een   seen    in    eruption.      Langford   gives   the 


FME  ^siCiFic  romstisr. 


Ill 


height  a»  140  feet  in  1870.  It  waH  also  seen  in 
iulii'ii  m  1874,  but  tlio  iieiglit  was  not  nieasun-d. 
riiUowiii;:  up  the  rivcr  on  the  soutli-west  nide, 
we  ni'Xt  .st<)|»  at  tlie  "Castle."  It  is  a  cone,  ris- 
iiij;  ii  little  over  11  feet  aliove  an  irregular  jilat- 
foiiii  of  sinter,  that  measures  75  by  KM)  ft'ct,  and 
is  three  feet  liigh.  The  orifice  of  the  geyser 
tulii'  is  three  feet  in  diameter,  and  circular,  and 
its  thit)at  is  lined  with  large  orange<'olored 
j;lol»iilar  masses.  In  1870,  its  eruption  threw  a 
cdlmnn  of  water  140  feet  above  its  crater,  con- 
tinuing three  hours.  In  187"J,  the  maximum 
lK'i)jht  observed  was  \YA  feet  and  the  duration 
tiftcen  mimites,  after  which  steam  escaj)ed  with 
a  pulsating  movement,  the  whole  display  lasting 
alH)ut  an  hour  and  twenty  minutes.  In  1874, 
tlie  same  succession"  of  water  antl  steam  was 
noticed,  the  former  lasting  twenty  minutes,  and 
attaining  an  estimated  height  of  LV>0  fei-t,  and 
the  latter  lasting  about  forty  minutes  longi-r. 
'llie  noise  of  the  eruption  is  indescribiibli'.  Im- 
agine a  gigantic  not  with  a  thunder-storiu  in  its 
stomach,  and  to  tlie  noises  of  elemental  war,  add 
the  shrieking  of  steam  pipes  and  you  will  have 
a  faint  idea  of  it.  After  the  eruption,  the  ex- 
hausted geyser  sinks  into  complete  rejK)se. 

Near  the  "Castle"  is  a  beautiful  blue  hot 
cpring,  which  has  been  given  the  fanciful  na:neof 
"  Circes  Voudoir."  The  water  is  jwrfectly  trans- 
piircnt,  and  so  irii-nsely  blue  that  you  involun- 
tiirily  plunge  your  hand  in  to  see  if  it  is  water. 
The  basin  is  of  pure  white  silica,  looking  like 
marble.  It  is  alwut  20  feet  in  diameter,  and  has 
a  beautiful  and  regular  scalloped  margin.  The 
white  b,asin  slopes  to  a  funnel-shaped  oj^ening 
which  is  10  feet  deep,  and  here  the  water  is  in- 
t.'nselv  blue,  its  temperature  180'^  Fahrenheit. 

"  Old  Faithful,"  standing  at  the  head  of  the 
valley,  is  so  named  from  the  regularity  of  its 
sjHiuting.  Its  mouth  is  six  feet  by  two,  in  a 
siliceous  mound  that  rises  11  feet  above  the  gen- 
eral level.  On  this  mound  are  small  basins 
whose  edges  are  ornamented  with  bead-like  silica. 
The  eruptions  commence  with  a  few  abortive 
attempts,  followed  by  a  rapid  succession  of  jets 
which  stion  reach  the  maximum,  and  then  sub- 
side, only  steam  escaping  from  the  orifice.  The 
average  interval  between  the  eruptioiis  observed 
in  1872,  was  one  hour,  two  and  three-<juarter 
minutes,  and  the  average  duration  four  minutes, 
titty-three  seconds.  As  observed  by  Captain 
Jones'  party  in  1873,  the  interval  was  fifty- 
six  minutes  and  forty  seconds,  and  the  dura- 
tion four  minutes  and  thirty-three  and  one-half 
seconds.  The  height  of  tKe  column  was  esti- 
mated at  nearly  liiO  feet.  The  greatest  height 
measured  in  187'i,  out  of  seventeen  eruptions, 
was  130  feet.  The  "  Bee  Hive  "  is  on  the  ojv 
iHisite  side  of  the  river,  nearly  due  north  of  "Old 
Faithful,"  and  alwut  300  yards  distant.  It  is 
I.  ;!.r  the  river  aiui  readily  recognized  by  its 
cone  three  feet  high,  and   about  three  feet  in 


diameter.  From  this  cone  the  wat^-r  is  pro- 
jected with  great  force  in  a  steady  stream.  The 
column  is  fan  shaped.  No  water  fails  back,  but 
it  seems  to  be  all  resolved  into  vajKir.  T'he 
length  of  the  eruptions  is  fifun  lour  to  fifteen 
minutes,  and  the  interval  unknown.  The  coU 
umn  rises  from  100  to  'SA\  feet. 

Two  hundred  yards  back  of  the  Bee  Hive,  is 
the  "Giantess,"  which  has  a  large  basin  23  by  32 
feet.  It  is  on  the  summit  of  a  gently  sloping 
siliceous  mound.  Its  eruptions  are  very  irregu- 
lar. T'Ih  y  l;ist  from  8  to  18  mimites.  The  only 
eruption  measured  in  1872,  was  tiO  feet.  An 
iininense  mass  of  water  was  thrown  up.  Other 
estimates  have  given  the  height  as  (iO,  200, 
and  2."H)  feet. 

Farthe"  down  the  river  and  opposite  the 
castle,  frcir  wnich  it  is  distant  400  yards,  is  the 
"  (irand  Oeyser."  One  would  scarcely  take  it 
for  an  important  geyser,  unless  he  witnessed  one 
of  its  sjx»utings;  for,  unlike  the  others,  it  has  no 
raised  crater.  Its  basin  which  is  .")2  feet  in 
diameter,  is  depressed  a  foot  below  the  general 
level.  The  mouth  of  the  geyser  tube  in  the  cen- 
ter, measures  four  feet  by  two  feet,  and  from  this, 
about  once  in  24  hours,  a  column  is  thrown  to  the 
lieight  of  from  17.5  feet  to  250  feet.  The  eruption 
generally  consists  of  three  periods,  after  each  of 
which  the  water  sinks  completely  out  of  sight. 
Near  the  "(Jrand"  are  the  "  Saw'  Mill"  and  the 
"  Turban."  The  latter  is  only  a  few  feet  from 
the  "Grand,"  and  will  be  known  by  the  globular 
masses  that  !r.ok  like  huge  sfpiashes,  and  are 
easily  seen  lining  the  sides  and  bottom  of  the 
crater  when  the  water  lias  di  M'peared  from  the 
basin.  The  eruptions  are  unliiiporti.nt.  Still 
farther  down  the  river,  and  iiearlv  opposite  the 
♦♦Grotto,"  is  the  "Riverside"  which  brings  us 
back  nearly  to  the  place  we  started.  A  visit  to 
Iron  .Spring  Creek,  is  well  worth  taking.  Near 
its  month,  on  the  north  side,  is  the  "  Soda 
Geysers  "  group. 

Fair  camps  are  easily  found  in  the  "  Lower 
Geyser  Basin." 

In  the  "  I'pper  Ba.sin,"  a  good  camp  for   a. 
small  party  is  in  a  grove  near  the  "Castle."   An- 
other   is    found    about   a    (piartcr    of    a    mile 
liigher  up. 

The  trail  to  the  "  Sho.^hone  Geyser  Basin  "  leads 
up  the  Fire  Hole  River,  and  a  short  distance 
above  the  "  I'pjx'r  Basin,"  we  pass  a  fall  00  feet 
high,  that  is  worthy  a  visit  from  all  who  would 
see  the  beauties  as  well  as  the  wonders  of  the 
region.  It  somewhat  resembles  the  Middle  Fall 
at  Trenton,  New  York.  Above  the  falls,  the 
trail  crosses  the  river  to  avoid  swampv  ground, 
and  keeps  on  the  bounding  ridge  of  hills  on  the 
west.  The  narrow  valley  expands,  and  we  soon 
enter  .i  third  geyser  basin  with  several  groups  of 
springs,  and  one  geyser  called  the  "  Solitary." 
It  has  a  doine-.shai»ed  mound.  15  feet  in  diam- 
eter and  11  to  14  leet  high,  covered  with  elegant 


;:fi' 


If 


' 


\:\{ 


V\ 


I: 


'%\ 

i 
1 

?1  * 

■■'A 

\  :■  \ 

*i  ;'' 

t,. 

SCENES  IN  THE  YELLOWSTONE  PARK. 
L— Jupiter's  Baths  and  Soda  Monntaln.    2.— Vnlley  of  the  Yellowstone. 


TMis  fiaeiFic  Tomsisr. 


178 


|>i;mly  bead-work,  and 
.slii|it'd  vertically  with 
Ijands  of  white,  dark  green, 
hrownish  black,  and  vari- 
ous shades  of  oratige  and 
yellow,  the  white  being  ordinary  geyserite,  while 
the  other  colors  are  purely  vegetable. 

In  the  top  of  tlic  mound  are  several  openings, 
the  larger  alwut  three  inches  in  diameter,  from 
which  a  stream  of  water  is  thrown  20  to  50  feet 
and  evon  to  70  feet,  mostly  in  drops,  with  much 
steam.  The  amount  of  wat<T  is  small,  yet  is 
erupted  with  great  forc«,  reminding  one  of  the 
eruptions  of  the  "  Castle."     The  sjioutiiig  is  at 


intervals  of  about  two 
liours.  The  elevation  of 
this  •'  rpjKjr  Basin,"  is 
7.770  feet,  while  that  of  the  Up|x?r  Geyser  Basin. 
IMOjK'r,  is  from  7,:J00  to  7,100.  On  a  small 
stn-am  coming  inU)  the  basin  from  the  west, 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  river,  is 
a  line  cascule  l-'JO  feet  high.  The  river  rises 
in  a  small  lake  to  which  the  name  Madison 
Lake  is  given.  From  here  the  trail  runs 
due  east  to  Shoshone  Lake,  which  is  one  of 
the  sources  of  Snake  River,  giving  origin  to  the 
main  stream.  From  the  "  Ujuxir  Geyser  Basin  " 
to  ALidison  Lake,  is  about  ten  miles,  and  from 
this  lake  to  the  Shoshone  (Jeysers,  the  distance 
is  al)out  four  miles.  The  trail  is  not  very  good, 
there  being  considerable  fallen  timber  through 
the  region  to  be  *-  "ersed. 

Mount  lilackmoi't'.— This  mountain,  pre- 
vious to  1872,  was  practically  unnamed  and  un- 
known. It  is  situated  in  t!ie  heart  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  in  Montana  Territory,  and  at  its 
base  are  the  sources  of  tlie  Gallatin  River,  which, 


ml 


174 


rmm  ipmaww  we&misr. 


I 


'I 


!'■   "I 


L.U 


m 


I ' 


■with   thn  Joffcrsoi)   aiul    Madison   Rivers^  help 
form  tin*  iiiij^lity  Miss(niti. 

It  wa^^  (IIhoov.ti-iI  by  the  Ilaytlen  Exploration 
Party  of  1872,  ami  vecHived  its  nainn  under  the 


f"ll'^".injf    circumstances 
Fort  Ellis,  and  making  pit 


While    ramped    at 
!>arations  for  the  tx- 


plorationsof  thu  famous  Yt'llowstone  ExiK'dition, 
the  party  was  joined  by  Mr.  William  Hlaoknnno, 


rALACK  Htri'TB. 


of  LoiidiMi,  one  of  Kiii;- 
land's  scientific  men.  AViih 
him  came  Ids  wife,  who  was 
anxious  to  see  some  of  tiie 
beauties  and  wontlers  of 
our  famous  Yellowstone 
National  !*ark.  'I'lii' 
fatigue  and  iiardships  of 
the  journey  fn.ni  Coriniie 
to  hozeman,  <)(K)  nules  of 
staging,  proved  too  nuioii. 
On  arrival  at  Bozeman.  she 
was  taken  ill,  and  after  a 
sickness  of  hut  two  days, 
she  d.'>'d.  Her  jjiave  lies  at 
the  foot  of  a  mountain 
range,  from  which  tl.'ie 
rises  a  grand  peak  m- idl- 
ing up  lik'j  a  huge  nionu- 
inent  to  hi'r  memory  'lo 
this  i)eak  tne  i>arty  ga.e  lln- 
name  of  Mt.  Rlaekmor.'. 
The  height  al>ove  tlie  sea  is 
10,134  feet.  The  ascent  i-^ 
exceedingly  dillicult,  ami 
required  over  four  dav-! 
hv  the  party  who  sucoeci!- 
eS,  and  tlie  scene  from 
the  summit  is  inexpnss- 
ibly  grand,  and  thi;  tieid 
of  vision  is  immense. 
Here  a  bird's-eye  ^iew  is 
gained  of  the  ( 1  n 1 1  a  t  i  n 
Kiver  for  over -K'  miles  of 
its  course;  in  the  distance 
is  the  Missouri.  Next  arc 
the  Jefferson  and  Madison 
Rivers,  and  s^nthwaril 
is  a  country  whose  ap- 
pearance iH  rough  i)t'- 
yond  innigination.  Peak 
uix)n  peak  loi^nis  up  against 
the  horiv;on  —  the  .Snowy 
Range  of  the  Yellowstone. 
with  its  liigh  points,  ami 
the  M.idison  Range  with 
iis  numerov.s  jM-ak-cappi'd 
summits.  Nearly  at  the 
summit  of  Mt.  IMatkmore 
is  the  crater  of  at'  i-xlinct 
"  e  ix'ii 
))lac! 
and  a  brivk-red  lava.  On 
the  weslorn  and  norllieri) 
pides  tht-ie  '\s  an  almost 
perpendicidar  w  "  !  1 ,  too 
steep  t/>  hold  an/  snow  in 
Jodgment. 


volcano,  end  thep<'ak  it.<iif 
is  comixised  of  ))lack  bm^alt 


FMM  i^siCiFi€  FOt^risr. 


175 


arty  who  hucoi-im!- 


I'afare  liutte.  —  In  asceiuHnp  Mt.  Hliick- 
luoru,  the  Hay<lt'ii  I'urty  piistst'd  tlituiigli  a  lovely 
little  park  alwut  a  (luarter  of  a  niilo  in  ItMijjth, 
and  almost  oval  in  .shape,  bordereil  on  all  .sides 
bv  a  liii«  ot  {jrand  old  tie«!8,  wlio.se  syuunetry 
W)ulii  have  j^raced  the  finest  artificial  park  in 
tii4-  world,  liack  of  these  trees,  on  the  east,  ri.s- 
iujj  to  the  ln'i;,'lit  of  over  ;J,tK)0  feet  above  us, 
istood  an  almost  lilank  \vall  of  volcanic  rock,  the 
luvvailint;  tint<)f  wiiich  was  a  sonj'i  '•  black,  re- 
lieved hero  and  there  with  streaks  'i  red  and 
green,  as  though  it  had  been  painted.  Tliis  wall 
was  surmounted  by  dome  and  spire-like  iwint.i  of 
rock,  ill  whose  crevices  lay  deej)  banks  of  snow. 
On  the  western  side  of  the  park,  across  the  creek, 
was  a  second  wall  similar  in  ciiar.icter  to  the 
first.  J'he  effects  of  the  we.ither  had  given  curi- 
ous architectural  resemblances.  It  tlid  not  re- 
ijuiie  a  very  vivid  imagination  to  trace  castles 
and  fortress  walls  on  the  face  of  the  wall.  At 
the  head  of  the  park  stands  a  monumenc-liko 
inle  of  rocks,  to  which  wo  gave  the  name  of 
Palace  Hutte,  and  the  paik  we  call  Palace  Park. 
The  liiitto  rises  in  an  almost  donie-shuped  mass 
from  a  blank  wall,  on  whose  sides  we  can  distin- 
guish narrow,  silver-like  lines,  reaching  from  the 
top  down,  until  they  are  hidden  behind  the  trees. 
These,  we  afterward  discovered,  are  waterfalls 
fed  by  the  snows  above.  Without  any  visible 
means  of  sup[X)rt.  they  oeem  to  cling  to  the  rock 
for  protection.  The  .scene  as  we  came  into  the 
park  was  so  .strikingly  grand,  that  we  could  not 
restrain  our  eKolamations,  and  it  was  some  time 
before  wo  became  com^iosed  enough  to  arrange 
our  canij) 

.Shoshone  Lfthi'  ffetfaers. — In  beauty  the 
springs  of  the  Shoshone  Hasin,  are  probably  un- 
surpassr^l  altht>ugh  the  geysers  are  less  active 
than  those  of  the  Fire  Hole. 

They  are  at  the  extreme  western  end  of  the 
western  arm  of  tiie  lake,  on  Shoshone  Creek,  up 
•fthich  they  extend  for  about  half  a  mile  on  both 
fides. 

The  most  imjKirtant  geyser  is  the  "  Union 
(ieys'T."  so  called  be<'anse  it  combines  the  vari- 
ous forms  of  geyserie  action.  It  has  three 
vents,  each  of  which  has  built  iiji  a  small  cone. 
Its  eruptions  are  irregular,  the  height  being  from 
"il  to  !IJ  feet.  Its  location  is  on  the  east  side  of 
t  If  ere  k,  op{x)site  Quick  Run.  ()n«i  hundred 
vai'ds  up  the  stream  on  the  same  side,  at  the 
jMiintof  a  hill,  are  the  "  Minute  Man  "  and  the 
"Shield  (Jeyser."  The  former  has  a  beautifully 
beaded  crater  four  feet  high,  and  its  jets  reach 
a.i  altitude  of.  Irom  30  to  40  feet.  The  shield 
has  an  ornamented  mound  with  a  8liield-.shaped 
oiMiiiiijr.  '.k'twuen  these  geysers  is  the  "  Rosette 
Spi  ing  "  in  whose  shallow  waters  are  thin  leaved 
msette-shaped  manses.  A  riH-kykiioIl  intervi-n^is 
heiwetMi  this  and  the  "  Rulging  .Spring."  From 
the  latter,  large  bubbles  of  steam  escape  with  » 
sound  like  that  of  liquid  iwming  from  the  bung 


of  an  overturned  barrel.  Forty  feet  beyond,  is 
the  "  .Soap  Kettle  "  in  which  dirty  colored  water 
is  boiling,  covered  w  ith  foam,  lotiking  like  tiirtv 
soapsuds.  Still  farther  on  are  the  •'  Hlack  Sul- 
phur Gevser,"  "The  T'wins,"  »' The  Little 
(iiant,"  "*The  Iron  Conch,"  "  T"he  Coral  IVwl," 
and  a  host  of  smaller  springs,  the  description  of 
which  would  be  but  a  rep«!tition  of  those  already 
given. 

Hot  springs  are  found  also  on  Lewis  Lake 
and  Heart  Lake,  south-east  of  .sjioshone  Lake, 
and  also  doubtless  in  many  h)calities  yet  un- 
discovered. 

From  the  region  just  described,  we  can  retrace 
our  steps  U>  tlie  Lower  Fir»>  Hole  (ieyser  Rasin 
from  whence  we  can  either  follow  down  the 
Miidison  on  the  Virginia  City  Route,  or  return 
to  Uo/eman  ;  or,  we  can  follow  the  .Snake  River 
pa.ssing  flackson's  Lake,  and  the  grand  wcenery 
of  the  'i'etoii  Mountains,  and  take  the  trail  to 
Fort  Hall,  or  crossing  through  Teton  I'ass, 
go  to  the  same  place  via  Pierres  River  and 
Snake  River. 

IIEKIIITS  ATTAINED  BY  THK  KRITPTION*  OF  THE  PRINCI- 
I-Al.  OKVSKUS  IN  FIUE  HULK  UAHLNS,  VELLUW8T0MB 
JIATIO.NAI.  fAUK. 

HAUt  or  OKTRBB.  AI'TROKITT.        RIIOIIT  IN   riCT. 

Fountain,  In  Ix>wer  Bailn,       Hnyilen,  1871,  »>  U)    60 

Architt'i'liirHl,  In  Lnwr' i«.igl; 
Old  I'Hltlifii).  I'pper  KiihIm, 
Old  Faithful,  l'|>|H>r  BhhIii, 
Old  Fulthfiil,  I'pper  i)i«ln, 
Old  Falttifiil.  Upper  Kasln, 
OM  Faithful,  l^pr'er  Haaln, 
OlanteiB,  Upper  liasln, 
UlantesH,  Upper  HmbUi, 
(iiantess,  I'vpor  Ua<«ln, 
Bee  Hive,  L  p|Mjr  Biutn, 
Bt»e  Hive,  I'pper  Kaoin, 
Bee  HIvu,  Vpper  Basin, 
( 'untie.  Upper  Baoln, 
Cafitle,  Upper  Bnaln, 
Ciulle.  Upj)er  Biuln, 
('HMtle,  Upi>er  BhhIm, 
CaHtlo,  Upper  Bai<ln, 
(ii'iind,  Up|>er  Haitln, 
Grand,  Up|>er  Bnitlii, 
Grand,  Upper  Bnnln. 
Turban,  Up|>er  Bn«ln, 
Turl-an,  Upper  BaKlii, 
Giant,  Upper  Basin, 
(irotto,  Up|)er  BnKin, 
(irotto,  I'piM-r  BaHin, 
Oriilto,  Upper  Baxln, 
*.'NIea8Uied  by  Ulangiilatlon,  the  others  are  eatlmatcd. 

ELEVATIONS  IK  THE  VELU)W8TOSE  NATIONAL  PARK. 

riKT  AlOri   ICA   LITIL. 

Manwioth  W^Me  Mountain  Hot  .Sprlugn.  fi.'-TS  .o  7,TO9 

Mud  VriloanoeK.  l'l'11\"  L'^1 

Cnil-r  HilN' Sprlnip*,                                     „  .,828  to7,.l7U 
Sulphur  SnriiiKfi  on  (ilvlde  between  \  ellow- 

Hlone  and  Kant  Fork  of  Fire  Hole  Blver,  8,24»! 

I/)wor  (ievscr  Haoln,  Ifi^  <«  J-JJO 

Upper  Gcvxer  HaMn,  '•*'""' I'iS? 

Tlilnl  Geyser  BrtKln,  J.^ 

Shoshono  Ij»ko,  Gey»er  Basin,  •i»w 


Hayden,  1S7I, 

eo  to 

60 

Havilun,  1871, 

100  to 

160 

Hayden,  187'i, 

•132 

Norton,   187'.!. 

l.-H) 

ConiHloc-k,  1873, 

1,V) 

Punraven,  1S74, 

100  to 

ino 

l^iingford,  1870, 
Fftvden,  1872, 

260 

•;tO 

Norton,  I87'.', 

100 

Landford,  1870, 

•218 

Hayden,  1872, 

100  to 

ISfl 

Norton.  1872. 

100 

I^anuforil,  1870, 
Hayden,  1871, 

!W 

10  to 

Ifl 

Hayden.  1872. 

•«! 

Comntock,  187,1, 

.-» 

Dunraven,  1874, 

380 

Havden.  1871, 

200 

Havden,  1872, 

•1T3 

ConiHtock,  1873, 

200 

Hayden,  1872, 

•28 

Coinatoek,  1873, 

80 

r^nuford,  1870, 

140 

Ijinftford.  1870, 

60 

Havden.  Is72, 

•41 

Conistoek,  IST.I. 

28 

LAKSa. 


■  1  vl 


Ik/ 


YellowHtono  TAke, 
ShoHhoiie  Ijike, 
lyewls  IjnUe. 
Madison  Ijike, 
Uaury's  Lak«, 


7,TM 

7,870 
7,780 

8,:ioi 

«,443 


t     -      . 


w- 


I 


176 


MOUNTAIN  I'KAKH. 

ytIT  AlOVI  HA  LKVIIL. 

Mount  TTiiy<1«ii,  l:i,833 

Mount  W.ixhliuni,  W;MH 

Mount  Sliuriiliiii,  1(),.'I4.') 

Mount  Klaoknioru.  10,1114 

Mount  l)>'liin(i(Y(aiowstoiie  Valley),  I0,2i)<l 

Mount  Doitnn,  10,118 

Klectrli:  I'enk.  10,99a 

Kiiiiurant  P«uk,  10,629 

Ue<l  Mountain,  Houtli  of  Yellowstone  Ijike,  0,800 

I/>okout  Mill,  north  of  Shoxliune  Luke,  8,2S7 

Uld  Baldy,  near  Vlri;inia  City,  0,7U 

I-AMMKH   AND   DIVIDES. 

Teti.ii  Pass,  8,464 

Ty({li«t(  I'ass,  T.Oft'J 
Keynold's  Pass,  llonry'a  Lake  nortli  to  Madison  Itiver,  6,911 

Divide,  Yi.'llowstone  and  Oallatin.  on  road  from  Fort 

Kills  to  HoteliT'H  lljincho,  r>,T>\ 

Olvide  on  Mount  Wasliburn  wlier«  trail  <to»«us,  9,155 

liivlde  between   Yellowstone  and   Madison,  on  trail 

from  Mud  Volcanoes  and  Ueyser  Hiuiins,  8,1(U 

Divide  between  M.ullson  and  Slioslii>n<!  Lakes,  8,717 

Divide  between  Yellowstoni-  and  I^wIh  I^akes,  8,024 
Togwator  Pass,  (Upper  Y'jiiowstono  to  Wind  Hlver,)     9,ii21 


Water  aud  volatile  waiters, 

IJme, 

Silica, 

Ferric  Oxide, 

Alumina, 

Soda  ami  Magnesia,  traces. 


."O.IO  per  cent. 
f>7.70i)ercent. 

3.;t'2  percent. 

;t.(i'J  per  cent. 

3.;U  per  cent. 


10.-).05 


ANAI.YSIH  OF  (IRVSEUITE  FROM   U)WEB  OEVRER  BASIN. 

9.00  per  cent. 

88.60  per  cent. 

1.60  i>ercent. 

0.95  p«T  cent. 


Water,  etc., 

Slllra, 

Alumina  and  Iron, 

Lime, 

Magnesia,  Soila,  Potash  and  Litbla,  traces. 


ANALYSIS  OF    riNK    MIM)    FKciM    MUD 
UEYSEIt  ilASIN. 

Water, 

Silica, 

Alumina, 

Magni-Hia, 

Iron 

Liii>ie  and  Soda,  traces. 


100.15 
1M-FF8    ly    LOWEK 

8.6.1  per  cent. 
44.61  per  cent. 
45.0!>  per  cent. 

2M>  per  cent. 

1.86  per  cent. 


102.87 


ANALYSIS  OF  OEY8ERITB  FROM 

Water, 

Silica, 

Lime, 

Alundna, 

Magnesia, 

li'on,  CUloritie  aud  Soda,  traces. 


UPPER  OEVBER  BASIN. 

13.42  per  cent. 
79.56  per  cent. 

I M  per  cent. 

0.46  per  cent. 

1.78  per  cent. 

96.76 


ANALYSIS  OF    OEV8EUITE    FItD.M    SUOSUUNE    LAKE,  liKV. 
8EK  UASIN. 


Water, 

Silica, 

Alumina, 

Lime, 

Iron,  Magnesia  and  Soda,  traces. 


l.'t.OO  per  (fill 
76.80  per  t  cut. 

9.40  per  cent. 

1.80  per  cent. 

101.06 


The  aiiiilysfSf(iveiiabovo  are  fioni  the  Uepoits 
of  tlie  Haydeu  U.  S.  Geological  Survey  of  ilw 
Territories. 

iiveat  StMla  Motnitnin  amf  Jiipitir's 
With  in  the    Yfl^oirstoiiv  J{effion.  —  'l\m 

natural  curiosity  is  thus  deserihcd  by  an  arti.st 
who  acconipaiii<!fl  the  Yt'liow.stone  Exjdoiiiig  K.\ 
peditiou  (^f  Doaiie  and  Washhuni.  It  is  om  >  ; 
the  most  \voiiderful  institutions  the  world  cui; 
afford : 

"  On  the  .second  day  out  from  Hoteler's  Kam  h 
— thirty-thretf  inih's — we.  diverge  from  tli*"  roi  k 
trail  on    the    Vc;ii;iwstone,  and    alter   j'ii.ssiiiM 
short  way  up  a  cMcek  called  •(iairliu'        jl'vei 
we  were  led  by  an  old  mountaineer  ...p  .p  .te  ,i 
steep  mountain. 

••  Near  its  summit  an  iniinense  boiling  sprin, 
sjHjuts  out,  by  a  number  of  mouths  and  pnoU, 
the  water  of  whit.-h,  as  it  flows,  j'recipitates  il> 
soda,  sulphur  and  carbonate  of  limt'  into  a  sik 
cession  of  lieatitiful  terraces  iind  natural  biitli- 
tiibs,  and  like  the  coral  insect,  builds  perpetuiilly 
uiion  itself,  until  we  have  befoi-e  us  a  hill  nt 
snowy  soda  and  carboiuite  of  lime,  which  is  fniiii 
300  to  .WO  feet  in  height,  and  covers  at  loast  ."(i 
acres.  The  water  is  of  a  deep  cerulean  b'lic, 
and  the  kfinperattire  averages  100  degrees.  'I'lu 
process  of  precipitation  is  very  rapid,  and  iiic 
can  fairly  s(;e  it  dejwsited  in  i)eautiftil  straml'. 
cry.stals  and  geodes.  The  elevation  is  a  liitli 
more  than  (5,000  leet  above  the  sea.  No  ni.  i 
beautiful  contrast  in  the  world  of  light  and  ml'M 
can  be  IVmnd  for  the  artist,  than  in  this  i<\n>\ 
which  is  surrounded  by  dark,  rugged  mountain'. 
and  shades  of  yellow,  white,  amber,  pink  and 
russet  oil  the  spring-hill  itself." 


I08UUME    LAKK,  lilY- 


wmm  ^^ciFw  T&¥^isr. 


\\t 


THE  CENTRAL  PACIFIC  R.  R, 


::l 


^■U 


The  rocor  J  of  the  building  of  the  ( Jeuti-al  Pa- 
cific Raih'oad  is  a  doscriptiou  of  ouo  of  tho  great- 
est trials  of  courai^o  and  faith  tho  world  has  over 
seen,  and  the  actual  results  arc  one  of  the  great- 
est marvels  in  engineering  science  ever  known  in 
the  L'liiled  Stati's.  TJie  huioic  sli iMigth of  charac- 
ter, the  magnificent  power  and  endurance,  tlio 
tinaiicial  intrepidity  and  the  bold  daring  which 
(J«!tie(l  all  obstacles,  overcame  all  dilHcultics,  and 
literally  slioved  the  mountains  aside  to  make 
room  for  their  pathway,  are  not  ecjualed  by  any 
other  achievement  of  the  century.  If  ever  an 
American  can  feel  and  express  just  juhniration 
it  is  to  those  Samsons  of  the  Pacific  Coast,  who 
have  litwn  their  way  with  the  ponderous  strength 
of  their  arms,  and  with  invincible  fortitude 
o|)eneu  to  the  world  the  treasures  of  industry  in 
the  mountains  and  valleys  of  the  Far  West  and 
the  Pacific  Coast.  To  one  man,  more  than  all 
others,  is  due  the  credit  for  the  conception,  sur- 
vey and  actual  beginning  of  the  great  Trans- 
Continental  Line.  Theodore  D.  JudaJi — yet  he 
did  not  live  to  see  the  completion  of  the  railroad 
up  the  Sierras — and  his  successor  Mr.  S.  S.  Mon- 
tague carried  it  through  with  great  energy  and 
success,  and  to  them  the  nation  and  all  Califor- 
nia owe  a  debt  of  gratitude. 

For  years  this  brave  and  accomplished  en- 
gineer had  the  subject  of  the  road  in  his  mind. 
It  occupied  his  thoughts  by  day  and  was  the 
3Ul.jef t  of  his  (Ireams  by  night.  The  idea  took 
a  firm  hold  u)«>n  him,  and  he  became  completely 
absorbed  in  it-  It  energized  his  whole  being  and 
he  was  persistent  and  hopeful  to  the  end.  Sac- 
ramento, then  a  niuch  small(;r  place  tl.an  now, 
was  the  iiome  of  C.  P.  Huntington  and  Mark 
Hopkins,  the  former  now  Vice-1'resident  and  the 
latter  now  Treasurer  of  the  company,  then  hard- 
wan-  menhants  under  the  firm  name  of  Hunt- 
ington &  Ho)>kins.  Their  store  became  the 
headijuarters  of  the  little  company  that  used  to 
meet  .ludah  (here  and  talk  over  the  enterprise. 
Judah's  ideaH  were  clear,  his  plans  seemed  prac- 
tfcable  and  his  enthusiasm  was  contagious.  The 
men  who  iissociated  with  him  were  led  to  make 
Cdntributions  iVir  the  purjHjfe  of  })artial  pay- 
ment toward  a  preliminary  survey,  and,  in  1>>(50, 
Judah  ;;nd  his  assistants  wamlered  over  the 
gorges  u::4  canons  of  th.;  Sierra  Ncvadaa  in 
search  of  a  line  for  »  railroad.  The  results  of 
his  summer's  work  were  in  every  way  encour- 
*4ti!ig — wj  nuieh  so  that  other  contributions  and 


subscriptions  were  obtained  for  work  the  follow^ 
ing  year.  The  summer  of  1801  again  found 
.luda^i  and  his  jiarty  in  tne  mountains.  The 
work  oi  the  previous  year  was  extended  und 
furth(!r  examination  renewed  the  Iiojjc  of  tilt 
engineer  and  cpiickened  the  zeal  of  his  followers. 
Success  was  certain  if  they  could  only  enlist  cap- 
ital in  the  enterprise. 

Hut  right  here  was  the  difiicuUy.  While  the 
great  majority  of  the  people  of  California  be- 
lieved that  the  road  would  Ite  built  some  day — it 
would  not  be  done  in  their  time.  Some  ganera- 
tion  in  the  future  might  accomplish  it,  but  it 
would  be  after  they  were  all  dead.  The  subject 
was  broached  in  Congress,  and  finally,  in  181J2,  the 
bill  was  jtassed.  Huntington  and  Judah  went  to 
Washington  with  maps  and  charts,  and  rendered 
invaluable  assistance  to  the  friends  of  the  meas- 
ure in  both  houses  of  Congress,  and  (he  day  of  its 
passage  was  the  day  of  their  triumph.  Tho  news 
was  sent  to  Calitornia  with  lightning  speed, 
and  caused  great  rejoicing  among  the  people. 
The  beginning  of  the  end  could  now  distinctly 
be  seen.  Though  great  difficulties  had  been 
surmounted,  a  comparatively  greater  one  lay  in 
the  way.  Capital  whit  h  is  proveil)ially  timid, 
must  now  be  enlisted  in  the  enterprise.  Forty 
miles  of  road  must  be  built  and  accepted  by  che 
government,  before  the  aid  could  be  secured. 
Finally,  w  itli  what  local  help  they  could  get,  and 
the  assistance  of  New  York  capitalists  and 
bankers,  the  work  was  bejnin  at  Sacramento, 
and  the  first  section  carried  the  line  high  up 
toward  the  summit  of  the  Sierras.  Their  finan- 
cial agents  in  New  York,  put  their  bonds  on  the 
market,  and  the  funds  for  the  further  extension  of 
the  road  were  rapidly  forthcoming.  Leland 
Stanford,  then  as  now  President  of  the  company, 
inaugurated  the  work  at  Sacramento,  and  also 
drove  the  silver  spike,  which  completed  the  union 
of  the  two  roads  at  Promontory  on  the  10th  day 
of  May,  1809.  'I'he  progress  of  the  road  during 
each  year,  from  the  time  of  its  commencement 
until  its  completion,  is  given  as  follows  :  In  the 
years  1863-4-5,  the  company  completed  20  miles 
each  year.  Tliis  might  l>e  called  preliminary 
work.  They  were  learning  how,  and  their 
severest  difficulties  were  to  be  overcome.  In 
1806  they  built  30  miles,  and  the  next  year  46 
miles.  Now  the  rivalry  between  the  two  great 
corporations  mav  be  said  io  have  commenced  in 
eariKist.  In  1  «Ofi,  they  built  301,  and  in  1869,  up 
to  May  loth,  t  lev  -'Ved  the  gap  with  191  miles. 


J 

>^^ 


178 


WMB  ^igCiFiC  TOVmiSV. 


ii 


i(i 


DiJflmlHeHf  IHacouragementH  and  La- 
bor.— Few  travelers  realize,  as  they  pass  so 
easily  ami  pleasantly  over  this  railroad, — what  is 
represented  by  these  long,  smoijthly-hiid  rails, 
nor  do  they  know  of  the  early  days  of  labor,  and 
intense  energy. 

Everything  of  every  descrijttiotj  of  supplies  had 
to  be  shipped  by  water  from  New  York,  viu  Cat»e 
Horn — to  San  Francisco,  and  then  iidand  to 
Siicramento.  Thus  months  of  delay  occurred  in 
obtaining  all  needful  material. 

Even  when  tlie  project  was  under  full  discus- 
sion at  the  little  otKce  in  Sacramento,  where  gath- 
ered the  six  great  brains  which  controlled  the 
destiny  of  the  enterprise,  (these  were  Governor 
Leland  Stanford,  C.  P.  Huntington,  Mark  I?op- 
kins,  Charles  Crocker,  E.  B.  Crocker,  and  T. 
D.  Judah),  everybody  predicted  its  failure,  and 
few  or  none  Ux)ki'd  for  its  success.  Very  little 
was  known  of  the  country  it  wiis  to  traverse, — and 
that  not  satisfactory,  and  one  prc.mesied  that 
this,  the  western  end  of  the  Great  Trans-Conti- 
nental Railroad,  would  be  rim  up  into  the 
clouds,  and  left  in  eternal  snows. 

Scores  of  friends  approached  Huntington  in 
those  days  and  said,  "  Huntinr/lon,  don't  go  into 
it ;  you  will  bury  your  whole  fortune  in  the  Sierra 
Nevadas" 

Outsiders  called  it,  after  the  first  40  miles  were 
built,  "  The  Dutch  Flat  Snimlle ;  "  and  the  pro- 
ject was  caricatured,  abused  by  the  newspapers, 
derided  by  politicians,  discountenanced  by  capi- 
talists, and  the  credit  of  every  one  was  impaired 
who  was  connected  with  it. 

Thus  nobly  did  the  Californians  help  this  the 
greatest  enterprise  of  the  State,  and  how  much 
more  noble  have  they  since  been  1 

In  a  speech  before  the  Senate  Committee  of 
Congross  by  C.  P.  Huntington,  he  says  : 

"  I  suppose  that  it  is  a  fact,  the  mercantile 
credit  of  my  partners  in  business  and  myself,  was 
positively  injured  by  our  connection  with  th's 
enterprise. 

"The  difficulties  which  confronted  us  then,  ari 
MOW  nearly  forgotten,  but  they  were  intensely 
vivid  and  real  then.  There  were  difficulties  from 
end  to  end;  difficultit-K  from  high  and  st«H*p 
mountains ;  from  snows ;  from  deserts  wat;ro 
there  was  scarcity  of  water,  and  from  gorc"«  and 
flats  where  there  was  an  excess  ;  difficulties  r?om 
cold  and  from  heat,  from  a  scarcity  of  timber 
and  from  obstructions  of  rock  ;  ditficf.ities  in 
flupplying  a  large  force  on  a  long  line;  from  In- 
dians and  want  of  laborers." 

Of  the  princely  subsidies  voted  by  the  United 
States  in  its  government  bonds  to  aid  tiie  road — 
what  was  the  real  case?  From  the  individual 
and  private  means  of  the  five  capitalist.8,  they 
were  compelled  to  stipport  a  force  of  800  men 
one  year — at  their  own  risks — build  40  miles 
before  they  were  entitled  to  the  government 
bondfl,  and  then  were  eleven  months  delayed  in 


receiving  what  was  their  due.  To  build  the  first 
section  of  the  road  to  the  mountains,  they  wen; 
obliged  to  call  in  private  means,  which  out  on 
loan  was  yielding  them  two  per  cent,  interest  in 
gold,  per  month — invest  in  the  road  and  wait 
lor  reimbursement.  When  the  governnirnt 
bonds  wore  at  last  received,  they  vested  into 
^.>ld  at  the  high  rate  of  premium  then  ]ii'evail- 
ing,  (often  touting  %2  in  bonds  to  buy  $1.(10  in 
gold)  to  pay  for  labor  and  expense  of  cor.struc- 
tion,  which,  too,  were  excessively  high  for  gold 
prices. 

'i'he  personal  dangers  of  the  builders  were 
great.  The  very  surveyors  ran  the  risk  of  being 
killed  by  Indians,  and  some  of  them  were;  the 
grading  parties,  at  times,  ceuld  only  work  nndcf 
military  guard  ;  at  all  tini^s  all  the  track-layers 
and  the  train  hands  had  to  be  armed,  and  even 
after  construction  the  trains  were  often  attacked. 

The  first  100  miles  was  up  a  total  ascent  (if 
7,000  feet,  requiring  the  most  skillful  engineer- 
ing and  expenditures  of  vast  sums  of  money  in 
excavation.  At  the  height  of  6,000  feet,  the  snow 
line  was  reached,  and  40  miles  of  snow  galleries 
iiad  to  be  erected,  at  an  additional  expense  of 
820,000  to  $30,000  per  mile,  and  for  a  mile  or 
more,  in  many  places,  these  must  be  made  so 
strong  that  avalanches  might  pass  over  them  and 
yet  preserve  the  safety  of  the  track.  Even  after 
passing  the  Sierras,  the  railroad  descended  into 
a  vast  plain,  dry,  sere  and  deserted,  where  thertf 
was  not  a  sign  of  civilized  life,  nor  any  fuel. 
For  over  600  miles  of  the  route,  there  was  not  a 
single  white  inhabitant.  For  over  100  miles  at  a 
stretch,  no  water  could  be  found  for  either  man 
or  macliinei-y;  and,  even  at  the  present  day,  in 
many  pla'  es  the  railroad  company  is  obliged  to 
bring  its  water  in  artificial  pijves  for  distances  of 
one  to  fiftii'ii  miles  for  the  use  of  the  engines. 

Lal)or  was  almost  imiwssible  to  get,  and  when 
attained  was  almost  injossilile  to  control,  until 
till-  Chinese  arrived,  ami  to  them  is  due  the  real 
credit  of  the  greatest  help  the  road  possessed. 
Powder  was  one  of  the  heaviest  items  of  ex- 
pense, whieh  before  the  rise  in  prices  of  the  war, 
could  havt  been  >iad  for  f2.25  per  keg — but  then 
waF  obtainwl  with  i^flioulty  at  f5.lK).  Ix)comu- 
tives.  cars,  tiK>ls,  all  %;>!v  liought  at  double  prices. 
Ruil.M,  now  worth  bu;  %Ju.0O  to  160.00  per  ton, 
then  ct-st  *80.<tt ■  n>  ♦ioO.OO. 

EvTv  bar  Oi  '»•*«  a^  every  tool  Lad  first  to 
be  btjught  »!»»;  star«.«d  on  a  sea  v.  ya^e  rou'ul 
Cine  Horn,  some  four  or  six  months  oefore  it 
was  nee««*^. 

Jnsn  ■'..•.•e  r.ii  the  sea  voyages  rvjse  from  2  1-2 
to  1(1  f>.  /  cent. — freights  increased  from  118.00  to 
$4.5.0<»per  ten. 

Of    the   engineering    diiftcnlties  of   the   oon- 
striiction  on  the  Sierras,  iione  can  form  a  jxxssi- 
l)le  idea.     .V  culvert  would  be  l)uilt,  the  begin 
ning  of  which  wa^  on  the  grade,  whik*  the  otlicr 
end  would  be  50  feet  or  ai*^r<-  bi>low.     At  another 


179 


place  is  a  bank  80  to  K)0  iiwt  in  height,  covering 
a  culvert  'i5(»  feet  in  ieiijjth,  tlien  comes  a  bridge 
leaping  a  chasm  of  150  feet  in  depth. 

Next  a  cut  of  hardest  granite,  where,  in  the 
short  space  of  250  feet,  woidd  be  working  JK) 
carts  and  250  workmen,  thick  as  bees — while 
a  little  beyond  is  an  embankment  built  up  HO 
feet,  from  whoso  top  you  can  look  down  1,000 
feet. 

The  famous  Summit  Tunnel  is  1  ''*"  Tot  t  in 
length,  cut  through  solid  granite,  an  '  for  a  miie 
on  either  side  there  are  oek  cuttings  i."  the  most 
stupendoua  character,   and   the   railroad  is  cut 
directly  in  the  face  of  a  precipice.     The  jRiwder 
bill  alone  for  one  month  was  .'?54,000.     Hlasting 
wivs  done  three  times  jier  day,  and  sometimes  of 
extraordinary  execution.     A   hole  of  eight  feet 
was  onoe  drilled  and  fired,  and  1,410  yards  of 
granite  were  thrown  clear   from   tiie  road-bed. 
Several     more    holes    of     same    depth 
were  drilled   into  a  seam  in  tho  rock, 
which    were    lightly    loaded    and    ex- 
ploded until  a  largo  fissure  was  opened,'      = 
when    an    immense     charge    was    put      Jz 
in,  set  off,    and   3,(KM)   tons  of  granite 
went    whirling    down     tho    mountain, 
tearing     up    trees,     rocks,     etc.,     with     ^ 
fearful   havoc.     One  rock,  weighing  70 
pounds,  was  l)lown  one-third  of  a  mile 
away    from    its     bed,    while     another 
of    240    pounds    was     blown    entirely 
across  Donner  Lake,  a  distance  of  two- 
thirds  of  a  milo.     At   one.   place;,   near 
Douner's  Bivckbone,  the   railroad  track 
is  so  constructed    that    it    divscribes   a 
curve  of   180^,  and  runs   back  on   tho 
op|X)site   side  of  the  ridge  only  a  few 
feet  parallel  to   the  course  it  has  fol- 
lowed to  the  |>oint,  all  at  a  grade  of  90 
feet  to  the  mile. 

But  it  is  imi3(>ssible  to  tell  all  the  won- 
ders of  engineering,  or  the  feats  of  skill; 
let  active  eyes  watch  the  scene  as  the 
traveler  pa.sses  over  the  railroad,  and  then  give 
due  credit  and  admiration  to  the  pluck,  skill, 
persist^ence  and  faith  which  has  acconijilished 
so  much,  and  been  productive  of  so  much 
good. 

The  little  beginning,  in  1860,  has  now  given 
place  to  the  most  astonishing  enterprise  of  mod- 
ern tinies.  The  pay-roll  of  the  Central  Pacific 
Uailroail  Company  now  exceeds  10,000  names 
of  employes.  The  Boutlieru  Pacilio  liailroad, 
another  grand  enterprise,  controlled  by  tho 
same  f.omi)any,  la  building  its  road  rapidly 
toward  the  Cfulf  of  Mexico.  All  the  iniport- 
ant  railroads  and  steamboats  of  Calif omiji. 
aro  now  controlled  by  these  gigantic  cor- 
porations, and  from  the  latest  reports  wo 
quot«  figures  of  the  flnaucial  capital  of  one 
of  the  greatest  oorporatious  iu  the  United 
States: 


CENTKAL  PAO'JFia  UAILBOAD  COJII'ANY. 

AutboriziMl  (Capital  Stcwk $lou,000,000.00 

Capital  Stiiok  paid  iu 61,'J76,ft()0  lO 

FuuiiiHi  i><a>t fi2,mii.3;n.io 

UnitiTl  Stat™  HubMlily  IJiinilB  a7,855,«S(».(H) 

Furminx  LuucIh,  tHtimatcil  value 3ii,o<io,000 UO 

Lauds  in  Hun  Franciwo,  Oakland  and  Sacra- 

niunto 7,7R(l,(KIO.OO 

Total  BRseta $188,83 l.flfil.  10 

NiinilHTof  niiluH cnuBtnicted 1.407M 

NuuibiT  of  luiluH  oiierated 3,5UO.0O 

80UTU1.HN  PACIFIC  BAILBOAO  COMPANY. 

Au  IhoriziMl  Cnpitul  Stock 190.000,000  00 

Ca  lital  Stook  paid  in aO.TftJ.'.lOO.OO 

ITaj'iulut!  LauaH,<!8tlmsted  value bO  'iiM,M'i.OO 

Total  asBt'tH $113,2«H,85a.81> 

Number  of  milvsuoiupletud  and  iu  operation 711.B7 

HOUTHERN  PACIFIC  ItAILBOAO  OF  AUIZONA. 

Cupitnl  Stock  $20,000,000.00 

Bunds 1(1,000,000.00 

HOUTHEEN  PACIFIC  RAILBOAD  OF  NEW  MEXICO. 

Capital  Stock $10,(»)0,000.00 

BondH 6,000,000.00 


Sil.VEll   l"AL.\Ci;  CAU,   <J 


Westward  to  f<an  FraneU^^. 

Travelers  from  the  F  kit.  ift^r  dining  at  Ogden 
and  having  an  hour  in  sviiich  to  re-check  their 
baggage,  will  board  a  train  of  silver  pala^v  cars 
belonging  to  the  Central  Pacific,  in  the  evening, 
as  the  trains  now  run,  and  will  soon  be  whirling 
away  across  the  (ireat  American  I^esert.  As  we 
pass  out  of  the  suburbs  of  Ogd*«fe,  we  cross  Oj?- 
den  River  on  a  pile  bridgf,  and  leave  it  to  pur- 
sue its  turbulent  way  to  the  lake.  We  soon  ar- 
rive at  the  i>oint  of  jinitftioii  before  alludi^  to» 
but  find  no  magiiificent  hotel,  or  t)th*'r  biuidings, 
or  any  evidence  of  any.  "  I'nion  Junction  "  is 
therefore  a  myth,  and  cjtists  oidy  in  the  fertile 
imagination.  The  land,  such  as  it  is,  however, 
is  there,  and  we  soon  j>ass  th^  steaming  Hot 
Springs  on  ihe  right  of  the  road  and  close  to  the 
track.     These  .springs  are  said  to  be  botii  iron 


tm 


M 


180 


TMM  ^SCiFMC  rOimiST. 


'<  i-i 


i  -•  i 


and  sulphur,  and  from  the  red  sediment  which 
uas  been  deposited  over  quite  an  area  of  surface 
near  by,  we  judge  that  the  iron  springs  predom- 
inate. Since  leaving  Weber  Canon  we  have  come 
nearly  north  and  will  contiime  in  that  direction 
until  we  approach  Corinne.  (Tn  our  right  are 
the  towering  peaks  of  the  Wahsatch  in  close 
proximity.  On  our  left  are  the  irrigating  ditches 
that  supply  the  farms  with  water,  an  increas- 
ing growth  of  underbrush  off  toward  the  lake, 
and  7remc.it's  island  in  the  distance  with  a 
tow  "ing  rock, 
looking  like  a 
huge  castle, 
upon  one  ex- 
tremity of  it 
We  soon  pass 
a  little  town 
called  North 
Ogden,  at  a 
canon  through 
the  mountains, 
which  is  soni"- 
times  called  ()g- 
den  Hole,  or 
North  Ogden 
Canon,  iieforc 
the  road  was 
built  through 
Ogden  Canon 
proper,  this  was 
the  nearest 
source  of  com- 
ra  u  n  i  c  a  t  i  o  n 
with  the  valley 
the  other  side  of 
the  mountains. 
There  are  about 
nine  miles  of 
straight  track 
here  and  we 
soon  arrive  at 

lionnt'i'Ult 
—  871  mih>8 
from  San  Fran- 
cisco, with  an 
elevation  of 
4,310  feet.  It 
is  merely  a  side 
track.  The 
Mormons  have 
some  fine  farms  in  this  vicinity,  and  between  the 
rwtroad  and  base  of  the  mountains  there  are 
many  cultivated  fields  and  fine  orcliards  >>l  apple 
and  peach  trees.  There  are  frequent  canons 
through  the  range,  at  the  mouth  of  which  are 
little  settlements  or  villages ;  the  creeks  from  the 
canons  supplying  the  water  which  irrigates  their 
fields,  garaens  and  orchards.  The  largest  of 
thmie  settlements  or  villages  are  called  Willard 
Oily  and  Brigham  City,  and  their  business  is  now 
done  almost  exclusively  with  the  Utah  North- 


SUOSHONE  INDIAN   VILl  \OE. 


ern  Railroad,  which  runs  parallel  with  the  Cen- 
tral i'acific  between  Ogden  and  Corinne  and  near- 
er the  base  of  the  mountains.  The  next  station  is 
Jtrif/hnm, — 816  miles  from  San  Francisco ; 
elevation,  4,220  feet.  A  side  track  for  the  pass- 
ing of  trains,  it  is  the  station  for  Hrignani 
City,  which  is  some  three  miles  away,  though  it 
does  not  look  half  that  distance.  It  is  the 
county-seat  of  Box  Elder  County,  and  has  a 
population  of  2,000.  Leaving  this  station  we 
cro^s  some  alkali  marshes  near,  and  also  an 

arm  of  the  lake 
or  small  bay, 
with  the  east- 
ern part  of  the 
Great  Bait 
Sea  in  full 
view,  with 
Promontory 
Mountains  be- 
yond.  Ap- 
proaching Co- 
rinne we  enter 
the  celebrated 
Bear  River  Val- 
ley, crossing 
the  Bear  Biver. 
Before  reach- 
ing the  bridge 
the  train  cross- 
es 896  feet  of 
piling.  There 
IS  a  "  straining 
beam  "  bridge 
of  40  feet,  and 
a  Howe  truss 
bridge  of  181 
foot  4  inches. 

Corinne — 
80!)  miles  from 
ban  Francisco, 
with  an  eleva- 
tion of  4,  "294 
foot.  It  is  the 
largest  Oeutile 
town  in  the 
Territory,  and 
if  not  hated  is 
cordially  and 
effectually  \cl 
alone  by  most 
of  the  Mormonfl  in  the  Btirrounding  Be*,tle- 
ments.  The  natur>\l  location  is  excellent,  and 
when  the  thousands  of  acres  of  fertile  lands  in 
the  Bear  Biver  Valley  are  settled,  as  they  sure- 
ly will  be  in  time,  Corinno  will  be  the  center  of 
tratle  and  influence  to  which  her  location  enti- 
tles her.  On  the  completion  of  tae  railroatl 
through  here — l)eforo  it  came,  even — the  Gen- 
tiles ha<l  ta^en  possession  of  the  town  and  deter- 
mined to  maintain  an  ascendency.  From  that 
tune  it  haa  been  iin  object  of  dcl'anaation  by  the 


WMM  F:iVJtWW  FOf/TMiST. 


181 


m 


Saints;  and  the  lands  in  the  brood  valley  wlucli 
surround  it,  as  rich  as  any  in  tho  Territory,  are 
loft  with  scarcely  a  settlor. 

Thoso  lands  are  not  all  occupied  by  scttlorH. 
Tlie  advantage  of  soil  and  climate  are  to  Ih>  not 
over  ap;ainHi  the  want  of  water,  for  irrigation 
is  essential  to  good  crops.  A  ditch  has  already 
I)oen  du{?  from  Malatl  River,  which  Huppli<>8 
Home  farms  on  its  line,  and  the  town  with  water. 
A  liirgo  flonring-mill  is  also  supplied  with 
water  from  this  ditoh. 

Some  of  the  finest  wheat  wo  ever  saw  wa« 
raised  near  Corinne,  on  irrigatetl  land.  It  was 
spring  wheat  and  produced  at  the  rate  of  neai'ly 
iUty  bushels  to  the  acre.    The  spring  wheat  of 


tri'K    NlJl'AU     AM)    !•  AI'l'OOSK, 


Utah  far  excels  in  quality  the  best  winter 
■*?h(>at  i>ro(hu'.e(l  iu  Eastern  States.  It  hus  a 
large,  jilninp,  hard,  whito  l)errv,  and  will 
rank  as  A  No.  1  in  any  wheat  market  in  tlio 
country. 

Corinne  in  its  early  history  was  "  a  rough 
town,"  but  tho  roughs  have  passed  on,  or 
sleep  iu  unknown  gravels.  Tlui  town  now 
has  three  churches,  a  good  sihool,  a  largo 
flv.uring-mill,  sevend  eomraissiou  and  for- 
warding liouaes,  stores  of  various  kinds,  etc. 
It  was  the  freighting  point  to  eastern  IdaJio 
and  Montana  boforo  tho  Utah  and  Northern 
Railroad  was  built  It  was  for  a  time  tho 
terminus  of  this  road,  and  since  tho  change 
of  terminus  to  Ogden,  the  place  lias  materially 
declined.  It  ih  about  seven  miles  from  Great 
Salt  Lake. 

There  aro  quite    a  number    of  hotels   and 


public  boarding-houscK  for  the  accommodation 
of  guests,  the  leailing  house,  a  brick  structure, 
being  the  ••Contra'.."  B^r  Kiver  abounds 
in  lisii,  and  in  the  proper  season  the  sloughs 
and  marshes  bordcriug  tho  river  near  the  lake 
aro  almost  covered  with  ducks  and  wild 
gee.se,  thus  otfering  fine  sport  for  the  hunter 
and  fisherman.  The  water-lines  of  tho  lake 
become,  as  we  pass  westward  toward  the 
mountains  of  the  Promontory  Range,  visible 
high  up  on  tho  side  of  the  mountains.  There 
are  three  distinct  wattn'-linca  to  be  soon  in 
some  places  near  Ogden,  and  each  one  has  loft 
a  l)ench  or  t«'rrace  of  laud  or  rock  by  wliich 
it  may  bo  traced.  The  gi'eat  basin  is  full  of 
wonders,  and  no  riehi>r  field  on  tho  Continent 
awaits  sc-ientifu;  examination  than  this.  Alkali 
beds,  salt  deposits,  and  the)  detestable  water 
found  iu  them  will  attract  tho  eyo  as  we  go  on, 
iiud  soon  we  jjass 

Qimrrff — a  side  track,  with  a  huge,  rocky, 
block  castlo  on  the  ri^ht  and  back  of  it.  Trains 
ilo  not  stop  h»>re,  nor  is  tho  station  down  on 
the  advertised  tiinc-cartls.  Tho  piountain  on 
our  right  is  caUed  Littlo  Mountain,  and  rises 
solitary  and  alono  out  of  the  plain.  As  yto 
pass  beyond  and  look  back,  an  oval-shaped 
(loino  rises  from  its  northern  end  as  the  turret 
of  a  castle.  Salt  Creek  rises  in  tho  valley 
above,  and  sinks  into  tho  Bond  on  its  way  to 
the  lake. 

itlne  Crerh — 78'J  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
with  an  elevation  of  4,;)79  feet.  It  is  a  tole- 
gra])h  station  with  a  side  track  and  turn-table, 
[f  we  havo  a  heavy  train  a  heljjer  engine  is 
here  awaiting  our  arrival,  and  will  assist  iu 
pulling  ns  u})  the  hill  to  Promontory.  Between 
this  and  tho  next  Btation^  aro  some  very  heavy 
gnidcs,  short  eui-ves  and  deep  rocky  cuts,  with 
lills  across  ravines.  Blue  Creek  comes  rushing 
down  from  the  mountains,  and  furnishes  water 
tor  Rev(>ral  stations  along  tho  road.  Leaving 
this  station  W(i  begin  to  climb  around  a  curve 
II  I  up  tho  siilo  of  the  Promontory  Range,  tho 
road  almost  doubling  back  on  itself.  The  old 
gratlo  of  tlio  Union  Pa<'ilio  is  crossed  and  re- 
crossed  in  several  placcB,  and  is  only  a  short 
distance  away. 

As  wo  wind  into  tho  depressions  and  roond 
tho  points,  gradually  ascending  to  the  summit 
of  tho  divide,  tho  view  of  tho  lake,  Corinne, 
Ogden  and  tho  Wiihsatch  Mountains,  is  grand. 
The  maxinumi  grade  between  Blue  Ci-eek  ar  1 
Promontory  is  H'J.70  feet  Wo  pass  tho  rock 
cuts  where  eaeii  road  exi)ended  thousands  of 
dollars,  and  where  Bishop  John  Sharp,  now 
President  of  tho  Utah  Central,  exploded  a  mine 
which  lifted  the  rock  completely  out,  and 
gave  a  clear  track  after  the  loose  earth  was  r«v 
moved. 

Pi'oinonforif. — 780  miles  from  San  Fran- 
<'i8co;  elevation,  4,90;»  feet.     It  is  about  D  miles 


*  /'si 


182 


rJTjr  ^martc  woumtBw. 


■A 


'% 


!;i.:l 


from  Blue  Creek,  and  in  the  fii-Ht  neven  miles  we 
ascetul  over  500  feet.  Whilii  tlio  roail  was  umler 
construction,  this  little  iihict!  was  (luitw  lively, 
but  its  ^lory  has  de]>arto(i,  and  its  iin{)<)rtiinc)>  at 
this  time,  is  chiefly  iiisttjric.  It  has  a  very  weiU 
kept  eatintr-iiouse  for  railroad  and  train  ni<-n, 
and  large  coal-shuds  witli  ii  three-stall  ronnd- 
house  and  other  buildings  for  the  convenience  ot 
employes.  The  water  used  hero  is  hroiitfht 
from  Blue  Creek.  It  is  located  between  two 
peaks  or  ridges  of  the  Promontory  Range,  one  of 
which  on  the  it'tt,  is  covered  with  cedars,  and  a 
portion  of  the  year  crowned  with  snow. 

This  place  is  well  knowit  as  the  meeting  of  the 
two  railroads. 

The  highest  itoint  on  the  left,  is  called  "Peak" 
on  Froisetii's  >Iap  of  Utah,  and  from  itsstuninit  a 
magnificent  view  of  the  lake  and  surrounding 
country  can  be  ol)tained. 

The  Oreat  ItaUroad  Weihling—DHving 
the  LuHt  Spike, 

American  -history,  in  its  triumphs  of  skill, 
labor  and  genius,  knows  no  event  of  greater, 
thrilling  interest,  than  the  scene  which  attended 
the  driving  of  the  last  spike,  which  united  the 
ESut  and  west  with  the  bands  of  iron.  First 
oi!  great  enlerprises  since  the  world's  koown 
history  l)effan — that  gigantic  task  of  join- 
ing t^ie  two  groat  oceans  with  bands  of 
steel,  over  which  thousands  of  iron  mon- 
sters are  destined  to  labor  for  unnumbered 
years,  bearing  to  this  young  country  con- 
tinued wealth  and  prosperity.  The  comple- 
"tion  of  a  project  so  grand  in  conception,  no 
successful  HI  execution,  and  likely  to  prove  so 
fruitful  and  rich  in  promise,  was  worthy  of 
world-wide  celebrity. 

Upon  th(i  loth  of  May,  1800,  the  rival  roads 
approached  each  other,  and  two  lengths  of  rails 
were  left  for  th'i  day's  work.  At  8  a.  m.,  spec- 
tators began  to  arrive;  at  quarter  to  9  a.  m., 
the  whistle  of  the  Central  racitic  Railroad  is 
heard,  and  the  first  train  arrives,  bringing  a  large 
number  of  passengers.  Then  two  additional 
trains  arrive  on  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad,  froui 
the  East.  At  a  quarter  of  11a.  m.,  the  Chinese 
workmen  commenced  leveling  the  bed  of  the 
road,   with  picks    and   shovels,    preparatory  to 

f (lacing  the  ties.  At  a  quarter  past  eleven  the 
Jovernor's  train  (Governor  Stanford)  arrived. 
The  engine  was  gaily  decorated  with  little  flags 
and  ribbons — the  red  white  and  blue.  The  last 
tie  is  put  in  place — eight  feet  long,  eight  inches 
wide,  and  six  inches  thick.  It  was  maile  of  C^ab 
ifornia  laurel,  finely  polished,  and  ornameiittid 
wiMi  a  silver  escutcheon,  bearing  the  following 
'u^cription : 

*  The  last  tie  laid  on  the  Pacific  Jtailroad,  May 
1.0,  1869." 
Then  follow  the  names  of  the  directors  and 


odicers  of  the  Central  Pacific  Company,  and  of 
the  presenter  of  the  tie. 

Tln^  <'xa<'t  iM)int  of  contact  of  the  road  was 
1,080.8  miles  west  from  Omaha,  which  allowed 
U!K(  miles  to  the  Central  Pacific  Railnjad,  for 
Sacraiuf'nto,  for  their  jwrtion  of  the  work.  The 
engine  .liqiiter,  of  the  Centrn'  Pacific  Railroad, 
and  the  engine  119  of  tlm  Union  Pacific  Rail 
road,  moved  up  to  within  IIO  iVet  of  each  other. 

tlust  before  noon  the  announcement  was  .sent 
to  Washington,  that  tlio  driving  of  the  Inst  spikx 
of  the  railroad  which  connected  the  Atlantic 
and  Pacilie,  would  be  connnunicated  to  all  the 
telegraph  olliccs  in  the  country  the  instant 
the  work  was  done,  and  instantly  a  large  crowd 

fathered  around  the  ollices  of  the.  Western 
'nion  Telegraph  Company  to  receive  the  wel- 
come news. 

The  manager  of  the  company  placed  a  mag- 
netic ball  in  a  conspicuous  position,  where  all 
present  could  witness  the  i)erformance,  and  con- 
iiec'ed  the  same  with  the  main  lines,  notifying 
the  various  otiices  of  the  country  that  he  was 
nuidy.  New  Orleans,  New  York  and  Itoston  in- 
stantly answered  "  Reaily." 

In  San  Francisco,  the  wires  were  connected 
wit''  the  firr-alarm  in  the  tower,  where  the  heavv 
ring  of  the  brll  might  spread  the  news  immedi- 
ately over  the  city,  as  (juick  as  the  event  was 
completed. 

\V  aiting  for  somct  time  in  impatitMice,  at  last 
came  this  message  from  Promontory  Point,  at 
2.27  I'.  M. : 

'^  Almost  ready.  I  lata  oJf\  prayer  is  being  of- 
fered" 

A  silence  for  the  prayer  ensued  ;  at  2.40  p.  M., 
the  bell  tapped  again,  aiul  the  ofiicer  at  Proinoii- 
tiiry  said  : 

"  Il'e  have  got  done  praying,  the  spike  is  about 
to  bit  presented." 

Chicago  rejjlied:  "  We  understand,  all  are 
ready  in  the  East." 

From  Promontory  Point.  "All  ready  now; 
the  spike  will  soon  be  driven.  The  sif/nal  will  be 
three  dots  for  the  co)nmen<eineut  of  the  blows." 

For  a  moment  the  instrument  was  silent,  and 
then  the  hammer  of  the  magnet  tapped  the  bell. 
one,  two,  three,  the  signal.  Another  jiauso  of  a 
few  seconds,  and  the  lightning  came  Hashing 
eastwiud,  2,400  miles  to  Washmgion ;  and  the 
blows  of  the  hammer  on  the  spike  were  repeated 
instantly  in  telegraphic  accents  upon  the  bell  of 
the  Capitol.  At  2.47  r.  m.,  Promontory  Point 
gave  the  signal,  "  Done  ;  "  and  the  great  Amer- 
ican Continent  was  successfully  spanned. 
Immediately  thereafter,  flashed  over  the  line, 
the  following  oHicial  announcement  to  the  As- 
sociated Press : 

Promont<?ry  Summit,  Utah,  May  10. — Thk 
last  iiAii,  IS  laid!  Tiik  last  hpikk  is 
dhivkn!  Tiik  Pacific  Raim<oai>  is  Com- 
I'LKTEU  I     The  point  of  junction  is  1,086  miles  west 


mipaiiy,  and  of 


j^loced  a  mag- 
1011,  where  lul 
laiice,  and  con- 
lines,  notifying 
y  that  lie  was 
and  Ikiston  in- 

vere  connected 
here  tlie  heavy 
news  inimedi- 
tlio  event  was 

iitieiice,  at  hist 
itory  Point,  at 

er  is  being  of- 

\ ;  at  2.40  p.  m., 
cer  at  Promoii- 

e  spike  is  about 

•stand,   all    are 

ill  ready  now; 
'le  Kif/nal  will  be 
'he  blows." 
A  us  silent,  and 
upjied  the  bell, 
iier  ])auso  of  a 
cnine  tiaRliin^; 
gioii ;  and  tin; 
I  were  repeated 
)()n  the  hell  of 
iioiitory  Point 
le  great  Amer- 
lly  siianni'd. 
over  the  line, 
■lit  to  the  As- 


■■..1*;.' 


THE  aUEAT  RAILROAD  WEDDINO. 
1.— Driving  the  laat  Splko.    2.— Union  of  the  But  and  West.    3.— First  Wlilstle  of  the  Iron  Uor>e. 


184 


rmm  9;§cirtc  tomhst. 


M 


!  '.'  y 


9/ the  Misfouri  River,  and  OUO  miles  ea»t  of  Sacra- 
M«n<o  City. 

LkLAMO  STANK(tl<l>, 

Central  I'ucific  Railroad. 
T.  C.  DniANT,      ) 

8ii)NKY  Dii.LON,  >  Union  Pacijic  Railroad. 
John  Dukk,         ) 

Such  were  the  tolcgraphic  inci(Icnt.s  that  at- 
tended the  completion  of  the  greatest  work  of  the 
ag<>, — but  during  these  few  exiM'ctant  moments, 
the  scene  itself  at  Promontory  Point,  was  very 
impressive. 

After  the  rival  engines  had  moved  up  toward 
each  other,  a  call  was  made  for  the  people  to 
stand  back,  in  order  that  all  might  have  a 
chance  to  soi!.  Prayer  was  offered  by  Ke\ .  Dr. 
Todd  of  Massachusetts.  Brief  remarks  were 
then  made  liy  (iunural  Dodge  and  (ioveriior 
Stanford,  'riuee  cheers  were  given  I'ur  the 
Government  t)f  the  Untied  States,  for  Ihc.  Rail- 
road, for  the  I'resideiits,  for  the  Star  Spaiiglcd 
Banner,  for  the  Liibi)rers,  and  for  those  respec- 
tively, who  fuvnislK'd  the  means.  Four  spikes 
wore  then  fumislied, — two  i/olil  and  two  siliur, — 
bv  Montana,  Idaho,  Calil'ornia,  and  Nevada. 
They  were  ejidi  about  seven  inches  long,  and  a 
little  larger  than  the  iron  s[)ike. 

Dr.  llarkness,  of  Sacramento,  in  presenting  to 
Grovernor  Stanford  a  spike  of  pure  gold,  delivered 


n  pu 
lech. 


rf'! 


a  short  and  appropriate  spee 

The  lion.  F.  A.  Tritle,  of  Nevada,  presented 
Dr.  Durant  with  a  spike  of  silver,  saying:  "  To 
the  iron  of  the  East,  and  the  ijold  of  the.  Went,  Ne- 
vada adds  her  link  nf  silver  to  .span  the  Continent 
end  weld  the  oceans." 

Governor  Safford,  of  Arizona,  presenting 
Another  spike,  said  :  "  Rihlxd  in  iron,  clad  in 
silver,  and  crowned  with  fjold,  Arizona  presentu  her 
offering  to  the  enterprise  that  has  handed  the  Conti- 
nent ami  welded  the  oceans." 

Dr.  Durant  stood  on  the  north  sitle  of  the  tie, 
snd  Governor  St..  ford  on  the  south  s'ulv..  \t  a 
given  signal,  these  g(iutl(Mnen  struck  the  spikes, 
and  at  tlie  same  instant  tlio  electric  spark  was 
sent  through  the  wires,  east  and  west.  The  two 
locomotives  moved  np  until  they  touched  each 
other,  aiul  a  Ijottle  nf  wine  was  jwnred,  as  a  liba- 
tion on  the  last  rail. 

A  number  of  l.idies  graced  the  ceremonies  with 
their  presence,  and  at  1  v.  m.,  under  an  almost 
cloudless  sky,  and  in  the  presence  of  about  one 
thousand  one  hundred  people,  the  greatest  railroad 
on  earth  was  completed. 

A  sumptuous  repast  was  given  to  all  the  guests 
and  railroad  officers,  and  toward  evening  the 
trains  each  moved  away  iiml  darkness  fell  upon 
the  scene  of  joy  and  triunii)h. 

Immediately  after  the  ceremonies,  the  laurel 
tie  was  removed  for  preservation,  and  in  its 
place  an  ordinary  one  substituted.  Scarcely  had 
it  l>een  put  in  its  place,  before  a  grand  advance 


was  nuide  upon  it  by  the  curiosity  seekers  ami 
relie  hunters  and  divided  into  numberless  nn  ■ 
mentoes,  and  us  fast  as  each  tie  was  demolishiil 
and  a  new  one  substituted,  this,  too,  shared  tin- 
same  fate,  and  probably  within  tiie  first  six 
months,  there  were  use<l  as  manv  new  ties.  It  is 
said  that  even  one  of  the  rails  (fid  not  escafie  tin 
grand  battery  of  knife  and  hack,  and  the  tiiM 
one  had  soon  to  be  removed  to  give  place  t<> 
another. 

A  curious  incident,  connected  with  the  laying 
of  the  last  rails,  has  been  little  noticed  hitherto. 
Two  lengths  of  rails,  50  feet,  had  been  omitted. 
The  Union  I'acilic  peoi)le  brought  up  tlieir  pair 
of  rai  ^,  and  the  work  of  placing  them  was  (lone 
by  .'Sl.'opeans.  The  Central  Pacific  people  then 
laid  th  'ir  pair  of  rails,  the  labor  being  performed 
by  Mongolians.  The  foremen,  in  both  cases,  were 
Americans.  Here,  near  the  center  of  the  great 
American  Continent,  were  representatives  of 
Asia,  Kurope  aiul  Amiuica — Anu^rica  directini; 
and  controlling. 

It  is  somewliat  unfortunate  that  all  the  seems 
whiih  characterize  this  j)laco  of  meeting  are 
])assed  over  by  the  railroad  trains  at  night,  ami 
travelers  can  not  catch  even  a  glimpse. 

Leaving  Promontory,  a  sugar-loaf  peak  rises 
on  our  right,  and.  as  w<r  near  it,  the  lake  again 
comes  into  view,  looking  like  a  green  meadow  in 
the  distance.      About  three   miles  west  of  tin: 
station,  on  the  left  side  of  thetrack.  asigii-boani 
has  been  erected,  stating  tiuit  10  miles  of  track 
were  here  laid  in  one  «iay.     Ten  miles  farther 
west  a  similar  sign-board  app«*ars.     'J'his  track 
was  laid  on  the  'Jtttli  of  April,  18(10,  and,  so  fur 
as  known,  is  the  largfist  nnnd)er  of  miles  ever 
laid   in   one  day.     (For  a  full  description,  see 
page  13.)     After  passing  Promontory    about 
three  miles,  the  grade  is  71.28  foot  descendinK 
toward  tho  West,  and  this  is  thest^epeBt  grade 
for  a  cousiilerablo  distance.     Tho  maximiua 
continues  for  more  than  a  mile  in  one  place. 

Jtozel — au  unimportant  station,  whero  trains 
meet  and  pass ; buti)aHsenger  trains  do  not  stop 
unless  sif^naled.  Tho  lake  can  now  bo  soon  for 
a  long  distance,  and  in  a  clear  day,  with  a  good 
glass,  tho  vic-w  is  magnific(>nt.  Still  i-rossing  a 
sago  brush  plain,  with  occasional  alkali  jiatchcH, 
closing  in  ui)ou  tLo  shore  at  times,  wo  soon  ar- 
rive at 

J^ake. — There  is  an  open  plain  to  the  north 
of  those  two  stations,  and  north  of  Bozcl  espe- 
cially, are  salt  wells.  Between  these  two  sta- 
tions tho  second  sign-boai'd  close  to  tho  track, 
showing  the  western  limit  of  tho  ttm  miles  of 
track  laid  in  one  day,  is  seen.  North  of  Lako 
Station  abont  three  miles,  are  Cedar  Si>rings. 
near  which  a  gi*eat  deal  of  wood  was  obtained 
for  the  construction  of  tho  roail.  Leaving  this 
station  wo  pass  across  flats  and  marshes,  with 
tho  old  Union  Pacific  grade  still  well  preserved, 
on  our  left.     In  i)lacc8,  however,  it  is  partiallv 


I 


rjwr  ^aciric  roi^isr. 


m 


I  with  the  layinii; 
noticed  hitherto, 
id  been  omittoil. 
ht  up  tJieir  pair 
J  them  was  (Ioikj 
icilic  people  tiieti 
beinfj  perfoinii'd 
I  both  oases,  wtno 
iter  of  the  meat, 
presentatives  of 
inerica  ilirectini; 

Hit  all  th(;  seems 
of   meeting  an- 
ins  at  night,  ami 
lin)]).se. 

r-loaf  peak  rises 
,  the  lake  again 
green  meadow  in 
iles  west  of  tin: 
[ack.  asigii-lioaril 
)  miles  of  track 
jn  miles  fartht'i 
ars.  This  track 
8U)),  and,  so  far 
cr  of  inilea  ever 

description,  see 
inontory  about 
ftiet  doscendinK 
0 steepest  gradn 

The  inaxuuiuii 

in  ono  place, 
on,  whero  traijiH 
ains  do  not  sto]! 

now  bo  Keen  for 
lay,  with  a  good 

Htill  crossing  a 
al  alkali  patches, 
lies,  wo  Huon  ar- 

ain  to  the  north 
1  of  Bezel  cspc- 

thesG  two  sta- 
so  to  tho  track, 
ho  t«m  miles  of 

North  of  Lakii 
Cedar  Springs. 
il  was  obtained 
1.     Leaving  this 

marshes,  with 
1  well  preserved, 
r,  it  is  partially 


SALT  LARB  FROM  MONUMKNT  POINT. 

▼ashed  awaj'  by  the  waves  of  the  lake.    Next 
oomes 

Momnnent — 756  miles  from  San  Francisco  ; 
elevation,  4,227  feet.  An  isolated  rock  rises 
like  a  monument  in  tho  lake  on  the  left, 
while  tho  hill  on  tho  right  is  crowned  with 
turrets  and  projecting  domes.  You  have  here 
a  grand  view  of  tho  lake,  its  islands  and  shores, 
with  promontories,  etc.,  which  in  correctly 
represented  by  our  artist.  Tho  station  itself 
is  a  mero  side  track  and  "Y,"  for  tho  con- 
vouience  of  tho  road.  When  tlio  stroiig  south 
wind  l)low8,  tho  waves,  dashing  against  tho 
rocks  on  the  shore,  and  tho  rolling  white  caps 
in  the  distance,  form  a  beautiful  view,  which 
the  tourist  •ift'^r  passing  tho  dreary  waste,  will 
appreciat( .  jlio  road  now  turns  to  tho  right, 
and  the  .iew  ■■'  tho  lako  is  shut  out  by  a 
low  hill  iiiit  ;i  lervenos.  On  tho  west  side 
of  this  liill  i',.  ti'.)  Locomotive  Springs,  which 
piiff  out  rtf  rtin  >  .t  times,  and  which  giA  es  them 
their  names.     Next  avo  jjass 

.Seco— -whii'h  is  an  unimportant  station  in 
tlie  midst  of  sago  plains,  and  soon  arrive  at 

KelUm — 741  miles  from  San  Francisco,  with 
an  elevation  of  4,2211  foot.  The  town  is  located 
at  the  northwest  corner  of  Salt  Lake,  and  about 
two  miles  from  it,  with  low  marshes  and 
Blougha  intervening.  This  is  a  stage  station, 
and  passengers  for  Boiso  City  and  other  points 
in  Idaho,  and  points  in  Oregon  as  far  as  Dal- 
las, will  here  leave  the  train  and  secure  seats  in 
the  ooaohea  of  the  stage  line.    The  shipping  of 


MONUHBNT  I'OINT  KBOM  SALT  LAKS. 

freight  for  Idaho,  and  tho  fact  that  it  is  the  ter- 
minus of  tho  stage  line,  are  the  principal  causes 
for  tho  growth  and  business  of  this  place.  It 
has  a  fair  hotel,  several  stores,  tho  usual  num- 
ber of  saloons,  and  corrals  for  stock  used  in 
freighting.  In  1875  six  million  pounds  of 
freight  were  shipped  from  this  place  to  Idaho, 
or  about  three  thousand  tons.  In  1880  the 
shipment  was  five  million  three  hundred  and 
fifty-eight  thousand  four  hundred  and  twenty 
jjounds,  whih?  Idaho  returned  in  wool,  hides, 
etc. ,  ono  million  six  hundred  and  ton  thousand 
one  hundred  and  ten  pounds.  Tho  apparent 
loss  is  duo  to  tho  fact  that  much  of  tho  freight 
is  now  sent  vi<M  tho  Utah  and  Northern  Rail- 
road. Seven  miles  north  of  tho  town,  at  the 
foot  of  tho  mountains,  are  springs  of  clear, 
fresh  water,  from  which  water  is  conveyed  for 
the  use  of  tho  railroad  and  inhabitants.  There 
is  a  good  deal  of  stock  grazed  in  the  vicinity 
of  this  station,  which  feed  on  sago  brush  in 
tho  winter  and  such  grass  as  they  get,  but  find 
good  {grazing  in  tho  summer.  The  surphis  cattle 
are  shipped  to  tho  markets  on  tho  Pacific  Coast. 

In  this  region  tourists  will  find  nuK'h  to  please 
them.  Placid  valleys  basking  in  tho  sunshine, 
with  gigantic  snow-clad  mountains  towering  in 
tho  background;  dashing  rivers,  with  water- 
falls 201)  feet  high—among  thcso  the  great 
Sho-shono,  of  Snake  River,  calletl  tho  "  Western 
Niagara";  lakes  amid  tho  mountain-tops,  with 
fish  disporting  in  their  depths,  with  waterfowl 
covering  their  surfaces;  with  forests  inhabited 


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TEST  TARGET  {MT-3) 


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23  WEST>AAIN  STREET 

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by  the  elk,  deer,  mountain  sheep,  goat  and 
Lear — are  all  here. 

Touiists  will  also  bear  in  mind,  that  this  is 
the  station  nearest  to  the  great  Shoshone  Falls. 
These  falls  are  llU  miles  from  Kelton.  Passen- 
gers from  the  east  will  arrive  at  about  10  o'clock 
p.  M.,  and  stay  all  niglit.  Passengers  from  the 
west  will  arrive  at  about  two  o'clock  a.  m.  The 
next  morning  they  will  take  the  stage 
run  by  the  North-western  Stage  Company,  1(10 
miles  to  Rock  Creek  Station,  which  are  made 
over  good  roads  in  twelve  hours.  Here  you  will 
stay  over  night,  and  take  a  team  tiie  next  morn- 
ing for  the  falls;  distance  ten  miles  over  a  lava 
plain,  with  stinted  sage  brush.  No  sign  of  the 
great  falls  is  seen,  until  you  reach  a  point  one  mile 
from  tliem,  when  they  suddenly  burst  upon  the 
eye  with  a  grandeur  and  magnificence  truly 
bewildering. 

Travelers  to  the  main  falls  can  reach  them  on 
foot  very  easily  from  the  upper  ridge.  It  will 
abundantly  repay  visitors  to  go  to  the  edge  of 
the  river,  and  contemplate  their  silent  grandeur. 
A  pathway  or  trail  leads  from  the  iH)int  where 
wagons  stop,  and  the  dit,tance  is  about  cue  mile. 

The  Great  Shoshone  Fulls, 

BY  CLARENCE   KING. 

In  October,  1868,  with  a  small  detachment  of 
a  United  States  Geological  Survey,  the  writer 
crossed  the  Goose  Creek  Mountains,  in  northern 
Utah,  and  descended  by  the  old  Fort  Boise  Road 
to  the  level  of  the  Snake  Plain.  After  camp  and 
lireakfast,  at  Rock  Creek,  mounting  in  the  sad- 
dle we  headed  toward  the  Canon  of  the  Shoshone. 
The  air  was  cold  and  clear.  The  remotest 
mountain  peaks  upon  the  liorizon  could  be  dis- 
tinctly seen,  and  the  forlorn  details  of  their 
brown  slopes  stared  at  us  as  through  a  vacuum. 
A  few  miles  in  front,  the  smooth  surface  of  the 
plain  was  broken  by  a  ragged,  zig/ag  line  ot 
black,  which  marked  the  edge  of  the  farther  wall 
of  the  Suake  Canon.  A  dull,  throbbing  sound 
greeted  us.  Its  pulsations  were  deep  and  seemed 
to pioceed  fronx  the  ground  beneath  our  feet. 

Leaving  the  cavalry  to  bring  up  the  wagon,  my 
two  friends  and  I  galloped  on,  and  were  quickly 
upon  the  edge  of  the  canon  wall.  We  looked 
down  into  a  broad,  circular  excivvation,  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile  in  diameter,  and  nearly  seven 
hundred  feet  deep.  East  and  north,  over  the 
edges  of  the  canon,  we  looked  across  miles  and 
miles  of  the  Snake  i  .ain,  far  on  to  the  blue 
boundary  mountains.  The  wall  of  the  gorge 
opposite  us,  like  the  cliff  at  our  feet,  sank  in 
perpendicular  bluffs,  nearly  to  the  level  of  the 
nver.  A  horizon  as  level  as  the  sea ;  a  circling 
wall,  whose  sharp  edges  were  liere  and  there  bat- 
tlemented  in  huge,  fortress-like  masses ;  a  broad 
nver,  smooth  and  unruffled,  flowing  quietly  into 
the  middle  of  the  scene,  and  then  plunging  into 


a  labyrinth  of  rocks,  tumbling  over  a  precipice 
two  hundred  feet  high,  and  flowing  westward  in 
a  still,  deep  current,  disappear  behind  a  black 
promontory.  AVhere  the  river  flowed  around 
the  western  promontory,  it  was  wholly  in  shadow, 
and  of  a  deep  sea-green.  A  scanty  growth  of 
coniferous  trees  fringed  the  brink  of  the  lower 
cliffs,  overhanging  the  river.  Dead  barrenness 
is  the  whole  sentiment  of  the  scene. 

My  tent  was  pitched  upon  the  edge  of  a  cliff, 
directly  overhanging  the  rapidt..  From  my  door 
I  looked  over  the  edge  of  the  falls,  and,  when- 
ever the  veil  of  mist  was  blown  aside,  I  could  se- 
for  a  mile  down  the  river.  At  the  very  brink  of 
the  fall  a  few  twisted  evergreens  cling  witii  their 
roots  to  the  rock,  and  lejia  over  the  abyss  of  foam 
with  something  of  that  air  of  fatal  fascination 
which  is  a,\}t  to  take  possession  of  men. 

In  plan,  the  fall  recurves  up-stream  in  a  deep 
horseshoe,  resend)ling  the  outline  of  Niagara. 
The  total  breadth  is  about  seven  hundred  feet, 
and  the  greatest  height  of  a  single  fall  about  one 
hundred  and  ninety.  Among  the  islands  above 
the  brink  are  several  beautiful  cascades,  where 
portions  of  the  river  pour  over  in  lace  like  forms. 
The  whole  mass  of  the  fall  is  one  ever-varying 
shetit  of  spray.  In  the  early  spring,  when  swollen 
by  the  rapidly  melted  snows,  the  river  pours  over 
with  something  like  the  grand  volume  of  Niag- 
ara, but  at  the  time  of  my  visit,  it  was  wholly 
white  foam.  The  river  below  the  falls  is  very 
deep.  The  right  bank  sinks  into  the  wivter  in  a 
clear,  sharp  precipice,  but  on  the  left  side  a  nar- 
row, pe))bly  beach  extends  along  the  foot  of  the 
cliff.  Fiom  the  top  of  the  wall,  at  a  jwint  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  below  the  falls,  a  stream  has 
gradually  worn  a  little  stairway  down  to  the 
river :  thick  growths  of  evergreens  have  huddleil 
together  in  this  ravine.  Under  the  influence  of 
the  cool  shadow  of  the  clifts  and  the  pines,  and 
constant  percolating  of  surface-waters,  a  rare  fer- 
tility is  developed  in  the  ravines  opening  upon 
the  shore  of  the  canon.  A  luxuriance  of  ferns 
and  nrosses,  an  almost  tropical  wealth  of  green 
leaves  and  velvety  cai-peting  line  the  banks. 
There  are  no  rocks  at  the  base  of  the  fall.  The 
sheet  of  loam  plunges  almost  vertically  into  a 
dark,  beryl-green,  lake-like  expanse  of  the  river. 
Immense  volumes  of  foam  roll  up  from  the  cata- 
ract4)ase,  and,  whirling  about  m  the  eddying 
winds,  rise  often  a  thousand  feet  into  the  air. 
Wlien  the  wind  blows  down  the  canon,  a  gray 
mist  obscures  the  rivor  for  half  a  mile;  and 
when,  as  is  usually  the  case  in  the  afternoon,  the 
breezes  blow  eastward,  t'le  foam-cloud  curls  over 
the  brink  of  the  fall,  an  i  hangs  like  a  veil  ovei 
the  upper  river.  The  incessant  roar,  reinforced 
by  a  thousRid  echoes,  fills  the  canon.  From  out 
this  monotone,  from  time  to  time,  rise  strange, 
wild  sounds,  and  now  and  then  may  be  heard  a 
slow,  measured  beat,  not  unlike  the  recurring  fall 
of  breakers.    From  the  white  front  of  the  cata 


M 

'',.(; 


t% 


I 


'-''  M 


■!:i 


188 


ract  the  eye  constantly  wanders  up  to  the  black, 
frowning  parapet  of  lava.  The  actual  edge  is 
usually  formed  of  irregular  blocks  and  prisms  of 
lava,  })oised  upon  their  ends  in  an  unstable  equi- 
librium, ready  to  be  tumbled  over  at  the  first 
leverage  of  tne  frost.  Hardly  an  hour  passes 
without  the  sudden  boom  of  one  of  those  rock- 
masses  falling  ui)on  the  ragged  debris  piled  below. 

After  sleeping  ou  the  nightmareish  brink  of 
the  falls,  it  was  no  small  satisfaction  to  climb 
out  of  the  Dantean  gulf  and  find  myself  once 
more  upon  a  pleasantly  prosaic  foreground  of 
sage.  Nothing  more  effectually  banishes  the 
melotragic  state  of  the  mind  than  the  obtrusive 
ugliness  and  abominable  smell  of  this  plant. 
From  my  feet  a  hundred  miles  of  it  stretched 
eastward.  A  half-hour's  walk  took  me  out  of 
sight  of  the  canon,  and  as  the  wind  blew  west- 
ward, only  occasional,  indistinct  pulsations  of  the 
fall  could  be  heard. 

I  walked  for  an  hour,  following  an  old  Indian 
trail  which  occasionally  approached  within  see- 
ing distance  of  the  river,  and  then,  apparently 
quite  satisfied,  diverged  again  into  the  desert. 
When  about  four  miles  from  the  Shoshone,  it 
bent  abruptly  to  the  north,  and  led  to  the  edge  of 
the  canon.  Here  again  the  narrow  gorge  widened 
into  a  broad  theater,  surrounded  as  before  by 
black,  vertical  walls,  and  crowded  over  its  whole 
surface  by  rude  piles  and  ridges  of  volcanic  rock. 
The  river  entered  it  from  the  east  through  a 
magnificent  gateway  of  basalt,  and,  having 
reached  the  middle,  flows  on  either  side  of  a  low, 
rocky  island,  and  plunges  in  two  falls  into  a 
deep,  green  basin.  A  very  singular  ridge  of  the 
barjalt  projects  like  an  arm  almost  across  the 
river,  inclosing  within  its  semi-circle  a  bowl  three 
himdred  feet  in  diameter  and  two  hundred  feet 
deep.  Within  this  the  water  was  of  the  same 
peculiar  beryl-green,  dappled  here  and  there  by 
masses  of  foam  which  swim  around  and  around 
with  a  spiral  tendency  toward  the  center.  To  the 
left  of  the  island  half  the  river  planges  off  an  over- 
hanging lip,  and  falls  about  150  feet,  the  whole  vol- 
ume reaching  the  surface  of  the  basin  many  feet 
from  the  wall.  The  other  half  of  the  river  has 
worn  away  the  edge,  and  descends  in  a  tumbling 
cascade  at  an  angle  of  about  forty-five  degrees. 

The  cliffs  around  the  upp^r  cataract  are  infe- 
rior to  those  of  the  Shoshoi.^.  While  the  level 
of  the  upper  plain  remains  nearly  the  same,  the 
river  constantly  deepens  the  channel  in  its  west- 
ward course. 

By  dint  of  hard  climbing  I  reached  the  actual 
brink  in  a  few  places,  and  saw  the  canon  succes- 
sively widening  and  narrowing,  its  walls  here 
and  there  approaching  each  other  and  standing 
like  the  pillars  of  a  gateway;  the  river  alter- 
nately flowing  along  smooth,  placid  reach<;s  of 
level,  and  then  rushing  swiftly  down  rocky  cas- 
cades. Here  and  there  along  the  cliff  are  dis- 
closed the  mouths  of  black  caverns,  where  the 


lava  seems  to  have  been  blown  up  in  the  form  of 
a  great  blister,  as  if  the  original  flow  had  poured 
over  some  pool  of  water,  and  the  hot  roclt,  con- 
verting it  into  steam,  had  been  blown  up  bubble- 
like by  its  immense  expansion.  I  continued  my 
excursions  along  the  canon  to  the  west  of  the 
Shoshone.  About  a  mile  below  the  fall,  a  very 
fine  promontory  juts  sharply  out  from  the  wall. 
and  projects  nearly  to  the  middle  of  the  canon. 
Climbing  with  difficulty  along  its  toppling  crest. 
I  reached  a  ix)int  which  I  found  composed  of 
immense,  angular  fragments  piled  up  in  dangrr- 
0U3  poise.  Looking  eastward,  the  battlementtHl 
rocks  around  the  falls  limited  the  view;  but 
westward  I  could  see  down  long  reaches  of  river, 
where  islands  of  trachyte  rose  above  white  cas- 
cades. A  peculiar  and  fine  effect  is  noticealile 
upon  the  river  during  all  the  midday.  Thf 
shadow  of  the  southern  cliff  is  cast  down  lure 
and  there,  completely  darkening  the  river,  but 
often  defining  itself  upon  the  water.  The  con- 
trast between  the  rich,  gem-like  green  of  the  sun- 
lit {TOrtions  and  the  deep-violet  shadow  of  the 
cliff  is  of  extreme  beauty.  The  Snake  llivir. 
deriving  its  volume  wholly  from  the  melting  of 
the  mountain  snows,  is  a  direct  gauge  of  the  an- 
nual advance  of  the  sun.  In  June  and  July 
it  is  a  tremendous  torrent,  carrying  a  full  half  of 
the  Columbia.  From  the  middle  of  July  it  con- 
stantly shrinks,  reaching  its  minimum  in  mid- 
winter. At  the  lowest,  it  is  a  river  equal  to  the 
Sacramento  or  Connecticut. 


Near  the  "City  of  Rocks"  Station,  in  the 
Goose  Creek  Mountains,  are  found  the  "  Giiint 
Hocks,"  and  over  the  little  rise  is  the  place  that 
gives  the  name  to  the  station.  Dotting  the 
plains  are  thousands  of  singular  rocks,  on  wiiicli 
the  weary  pilgrims  of  1849,  have  written  their 
names  in  cart-grease  paint.  The  old  Cali- 
fornia road  is  still  seen,  but  now  overgrovn 
with  rank  weeds.  The  view  as  you  descend 
from  the  sunnnit  is  sublime.  Far  away  in  the 
distance  loom  up  the  Salmon  River  Mountains, 
distant  125  miles,  and  in  the  intervening  space 
winds  the  valley  of  the  Snake  River. 

Kelton  has  from  250  to  300  inhabitants,  nearly 
all  supported  by  the  Idaho  trade.  North  of 
Kelton  about  twenty-five  miles  is  the  Black  Pine 
(mining]  district,  and  130  miles  north,  the  Wood 
River  district.  This  is  the  most  prominent  min- 
ing district  in  Idaho,  but  the  freight  and  tradi 
of  this  district  and  the  whole  of  the  Boise  basin 
will  eventually  reach  the  Utah  and  Northom 
Railroad,  by  a  branch  of  the  road  from  Black- 
foot  west  to  Boise  City  and  the  Columbia  River. 
The  district  extends  from  the  low  hills  at  the 
base  of  the  Wood  River  Range  to  the  divide  ol 
Wood  and  Salmon  rivers,  from  twenty  to  forty 
miles  wide,  and  140  miles  long — perhaps  the 
most   extensive   silver-bearing  region   known. 


he  form  of 
lad  poured 
rocK,  con- 
up  bubble- 
itinued  my 
rest  of  thp 
fall,  a  very 
n  the  wall. 
the  canon. 
pling  crest. 
)mposed  of 
>  in  dangfir- 
ittlementinl 
view ;    but 
ties  of  river, 
■  white  oiis- 
}  noticeable 
Iday.     The 
down  here 
e  river,  but 
.     The  con- 
a  of  the  siin- 
vdow  of  the 
nake  Kiver. 
!  melting  of 
ge  of  the  ai>- 
e   and  July 
a  full  half  of 
July  it  ccm- 
lum  in  mid- 
equal  to  the 


ition,  in  the 
the  "  (liitiit 
le  place  that 
Dotting  the 
ks,  on  whiili 
written  their 
le  old  Cali- 
w  overgrown 
you  descend 
r  away  in  the 
r  Mountains, 
rvening  space 
r. 

)itant8,  nearly 
e.     North  of 
he  Black  Vine 
rth,  the  Wood 
rominent  min- 
ght  andtnvdi 
le  Boifie  basin 
and  Northom 
a  from  Black- 
jlumbia  Kiver. 
ow  hills  at  the 
the  divitlo  ol 
nrontyto  forty 
r — perhaps  the 
*egion   known. 


189 


The   ores   are   high  grade,    galena   and    car- 
bonates. 

Idaho  Terr  i  tor  p. — This  is  one  of  the  small- 
est of  the  Territories,  as  now  constituted,  and 
claims  a  population  of  about  15,000  people. 
There  are  three  public  lines  of  conveyance 
which  lead  into  the  Territory,  or  rather  two, 
as  one  of  them  passes  entirely  through  it.  The 
stage  line  from  Kelton  passes  the  City  of  Kocks, 
and  within  ten  miles  of  the  Great  Shoshone 
Falls,  to  Dalles  in  Oregon,  by  way  of  Boise 
City,  250  miles  out;  thence  to  Baker  City, 
Oregon,  400  miles;  to  Union,  435  miles;  to  La 
Grande,  450  miles;  to  Umatilla,  510  miles,  and 
to  Walla  Walla,  530  miles.    At  Boise  City  the 


in  com  raising  have  not,  thus  far,  turned  out 
very  well.  The  second  line  of  public  convey- 
ance spoken  off,  runs  from  Winnemucca  to 
Silver  City. 

The  popiilation  is  about  2,200.  It  is  stis* 
tained  by  the  mines  located  near  it.  At  Battle- 
snake  Station  there  is  also  a  connecting  stage 
line  for  Rocky  Bar,  a  mining  camp,  near  which 
placer  and  gulch  diggings  have  been  discov- 
ered. There  are  quite  a  large  number  of 
Chinese  in  the  Ten-itory,  mostly  engaged  in 
placer  and  gulch  mining.  They  are  industri- 
ous and  frugal,  and  will  frequently  make 
money  from  claims  that  have  been  abandoned 
as  worthless  by  white  men. 


VIEW  LOOKINO  DOWN  THE  SHOSHOItE  FALLS. 


line  connects  vriih.  stages  for  Idaho  City,  Cen- 
terville,  Placerville  and  Silver  City.  Boise 
City  is  the  territorial  capital,  a  city  of  2,500 
people,  and  located  on  the  Boise  Biver.  There 
u  not  much  agricultural  land  in  the  Territory, 
bnt  a  few  of  the  valleys  are  cultivated  and 
produce  excellent  crops  of  wheat,  barley  and 
oats,  with  potatoes  and  all  kinds  of  vegetobles. 
drops  are  raised  by  irrigation.  Boise  Valley, 
the  settled  portion  of  it,  is  about  sixty  miles 
long  and  four  miles  wide,  and  is  the  most 
thickly  settled  of  any  of  the  valleys  in  the 
Territory.  The  nights  are  so  cool  and  the  alti- 
tude of  the  valleys  is  so  great  that  experiments 


The  Snake  and  Salmon  rivers  are  among  its 
principal  streams.  The  Snake  River  rises  in 
the  mountains  of  the  Yellowstone  Region,  and 
flows  entirely  through  the  Territory  from  east 
to  west,  and  forms  one  of  the  tributaries  to  the 
Columbia  River  of  Oregon.  The  scenery  along 
its  valley  is  varied,  but  in  some  places  is  grand. 
Idaho  also  has  immense  ranges  where  a  large 
number  of  cattle  are  grazed  both  winter  and 
summer  without  hay.  The  stock  interest  is 
rapidly  becoming  one  of  the  principal  features 
of  the  Territory.  Its  future  prosperity,  how- 
ever, depends  largely  upon  the  development  of 
its  mining  interests. 


f 


I  . 


h 


190 


J 


Leaving  Kelton,  the  road  soon  turns  to  the 
left,  and,  rising  a  heavy  grade,  reaches  the 
divide  between  the  Qreat  Salt  Lake  and  the 
valley  beyond.  The  mountains  for  a  distance 
are  on  our  right,  while,  from  the  left,  a  mag- 
nificent view  of  the  western  arm  of  the  lake 
can  be  obtained.  Between  the  road  and  the 
lake  are  extensive  salt  plains,  which  in  the  sun 
glisten  like  burnished  silver,  while  beyond  are 
the  green  waters  of  this  inland  sea.  Going  up 
this  grade,  vou  will  notice  a  ledge  of  rocks  on 
the  left  side  of  this  track,  the  lower  end  of 
which  has  been  tunneled  by  the  wind,  forming 
a  natural  aperture  like  an  open  arch.  We  soon 
turn  to  the  right,  leave  the  lake  behind  us  and 
wind  along  the  side  of  the  mountain.  A  dreary 
salt  marsh  or  alkali  plain  is  now  seen  on  the 
left,  and  the  low,  isolated  hill  on  the  shore, 
which  for  a  time  obscured  our  vision,  is  passed, 
giving  us  another  view  of  tha  lake  in  the  dis- 
tance, and  the  mountains  of  the  Wahsatch  and 
Oquirrh  ranges  beyond,  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
reach.  Passing  through  a  rocky  cut  from  a 
projecting  spur  of  the  range  we  are  passing, 
and  looking  to  the  right,  a  beautiful  conical 
dome  rises  up,  as  a  grim  sentinel  to  guard  the 
way.  Eelton  is  also  called  Indian  Creek.  It  is 
supplied  with  water  from  a  spring  several  miles 
north,  and  the  water  is  conveyed  in  cars  from 
this  point  to  other  stations  on  the  road. 

Otnbey — simply  a  side  track  in  the  midst  of 
a  heavy  gravel  cut,  730  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, with  an  elevation  of  4,721  feet.  At  Kel- 
ton we  were  but  little  above  the  elevation  of 
Salt  Lake,  4,223  feet,  and  we  are  500  feet  higher 
here  than  when  we  left  that  place,  the  distence 
between  the  two  being  about  eleven  miles. 
From  the  frequent  views  of  the  Qreat  American 
Desert  which  the  traveler  can  obtain  «rhile 
passing  over  this  portion  of  the  road,  he  can 
form  some  idea  of  its  utter  barrennness  and 
desolation,  and  the  great  sufferings  of  those 
who  have  attempted  to  cross  it  without  adequate 
preparation,  and  the  consequent  burning  thirst 
they  and  their  animals  have  endured. 

JHatlin— only  a  side  track,  720  miles  from 
San  Francisco;  elevation,  4,597  feet. 

Terrace — a  railroad  town  on  the  edge  of  the 
Great  American  Desert.  It  is  709  miles  from 
San  Francisco,  with  an  elevation  of  4,544  feet. 
Here  is  a  fifteen-stall  roundhouse,  and  the  ma- 
chine and  repair  shops  of  the  Salt  Lake  Division 
of  the  Central  Pacific  Ilailroad.  Mr.  A.  G. 
Fell,  with  headquarters  at  Ogden,  is  Superin- 
tendent of  this  division,  which  extends  from 
that  place  to  Wells  in  Nevada.  The  town  has 
about  300  people,  which  includes  not  only  the 
railroad  men  and  their  &milies,  but  those  who 
are  here  for  the  purpose  of  trade  and  traffic 
with  them.  The  water  tank  here,  as  at  a 
good  many  stations  on  this  road,  is  supplied 
with    water    brought     through     pipes    from 


the  springs  in  the  mountains.  The  town 
has  two  or  three  stores,  saloons  and  au 
eating-house,  where  railroad  men  and  emi- 
grants  take  their  meals.  About  ten  miles  north 
are  the  Rosebud  Mines,  and  eighteen  miles  the 
Newfoundland  district,  all  awaiting  develop- 
ment. Th'3  desert  with  its  dreary  loneliness- 
a  barren  waste — still  continues. 

A  spur  of  the  Goose  Creek  Ran^e  of  Moun- 
tains puts  down  on  our  right,  while  Silver  Is- 
let Mountain  rises  out  of  the  alkali  plain  on  our 
left,  and  Pilot's  Peak,  one  of  the  lofty  moun- 
tains of  Nevada,  and  a  noted  landmark  for  many 
a  weary  pilgrim  across  the  desert,  looms  up  m 
the  southwest. 

Bovine — an  unimportant  station,  with  side 
track  for  the  convenience  of  passing  trains,  699 
miles  from  San  Francisco,  with  an  elevation  ol 
4,347  feet.  On  our  right  are  broken  mountains, 
while  there  is  an  isolated  peak  one  side  of  which 
seems  to  have  settled  away  from  the  other,  leav- 
ing it  very  rough  and  ragged.     Next  we  come  to 

Luclii — 688  miles  from  San  Francisco,  with 
an  elevation  of  4,486  feet  above  the  sec     Be- 
yond Lucin,  a  short  distance,  we  strike  Gr  >use 
Creek,  which  lises  in  the  hills  north.    This 
creek  usually  sinks  in  the  sandy  desert,  and  no 
water  in  it  crosses  the  railroatl,  except  in  the  { 
spring  when  the  snows  are  melting.     On  the 
right,  east  of  the  hills,   and  north  of  Lucin 
about  4X  miles,  are  the  Owl  Springs,  wliicli 
have  an  abundance  of  water.     As  we  enter  the 
pass  in  this  low  range  of  lulls,  we  lose  sight  ol 
Silver  Islet  Mountains,  and  the  range  close  to 
<he  track  is  called  the  Pilot  Range,  or  by  the 
miners,  Buel  Range,  after  Buel  City.    Leaving 
Grouse  Creek  on  our  right,  the  road  leads  to  the 
left  again,  and  we  enter  the  Thousand  Spring 
Valley.    It  virtually  unites  with  the  Grouse 
Valley,  though  its  waters  usually  sink  iu  the  | 
sand  before  they  reach  those  of  the  creek  men- 
tioned.   Ab  we  near  Tecoma,  the  traveler  will  I 
notica  a  small  granite  monument  on  the  left 
side  of  the  track,  near  the  summit  of  the  grade,  | 
supported  by  a  heap  of  stones.     This  monn- 
ment  marks  the  Nevada  State  line,  and  passing  | 
it,  we  enter  the  land  of  the  "big  bonanzas." 
From   the    State  line  there  is  a  tangent  ori 
straight  line  of  ten  miles,  and  more  th-m  twentjl 
miles  with  only  few  and  slight  curves.  I 

Tecoma,  Nev.—&16  miles  from  San  Fran- 1 
oisco,  with  an  elevation  of  4,812  feet.  Thisiil 
the  nearest  railroad  station  to  the  celebrated  I 
Tecoma  Mines,  Buel  Ci^,  Lucin  and  Silver! 
Islet  Mining  Districts,  Deep  Creek  Districtl 
^inety  miles  south).  Goose  Creek  and  Delanol 
Districts  (thirty-five  miles  north),  and  the  ocntet  j 
of  considerable  cattle  trade.  The  town 
two  or  three  stores,  saloons  and  stock-yards.! 
Off  to  the  north  is  a  fine  grazing  countrrj 

As  we  approach  Tecoma,  on  our  left  a  blu 
peak  with  perpendicular  walls  closes  the  uorth-l 


They 

ed  wi 

there 

dealo 

bnllio 

water 

wells, 

placcE 

Form( 

these 

maste 

in  Jan 

about 

tIeov( 

havei 


WME   '^^€tFW  WQU'BmW. 


191 


The  town 
>ns  and  au 
311  aod  emi- 
n  miles  north 
een  miles  the 
ling  develop- 
r  loneliness— 

ige  of  Moun- 
liUe  SUvorls- 
ii  plain  on  our 
3  lofty  moun- 
mark  for  many 
,  looms  lip  in 

on,  with  side 
ing  trains,  699 
m  elevation  ol 
ten  mountains, 
B  side  of  whicL 
the  other,  leav- 
rextwecomcto 
Francisco,  witb 
)  the  sec  Be- 
)  strike  Gr  >use 
s  north.  This 
desert,  and  no 

except  in  the 
siting.  On  the 
lorth  of  Lucin 
Springs,  which 
Ls  we  enter  the 
ve  lose  sight  ol 
)  range  close  to 
ange,  or  by  the 

City.  Leaving 
•oad  leads  to  the 
louBond  Spring 
ith  the  Grouse 
ally  sink  iu  the 

the  creek  men- 
he  traveler  will 
ent  on  the  left 
mit  of  the  grade, 
58.  This  monn- 
ine,  and  passing 
'big  bonanzas," 
8  a  tangent  or 
lore  thin  twenty 

curves. 

'rom  San  Fran- 
12  feet.  ThisB 
3  the  celebrated 

ucin  and  Silver 
Creek   District 

reek  and  Delano 

h),  and  the  center 
The   town  has 

»nd  stock-yards. 

rrazing  coiintrr. 

I  our  left  a  bliiH 

closes  the  north' 


em  end  of  Pilot  Eangc,  while  Pilot  Peak  towers 
up  to  the  heavens  at  the  southern  extremity. 
It  is  twenty  miles  from  Tecoma  to  the  base  of 
this  peak,  though  it  does  not  seem  half  that 
distance.  Leaving  Tecoma  the  railroad  con- 
tinues over  a  sage  brush  and  greasewood  plain 
to  the  left  of  the  valley,  with  a  part  of  the  old 
Union  Paciiio  grade  on  the  right,  and  as  wo 
approach  the  next  range  of  '"'Is  or  mountains, 
we  have  a  fine  broadside  nv  of  grand  old 
Pilot  Peak,  and  do  not  v  .der  at  its  promi- 
nence, or  the  great  regard  in  which  it  was  held 
by  the  emigrants  across  tliis  dreary  desert. 

MontelUt — 715  miles  from  San  Francison, 
with  an  elevation  of  4,l>95  feet  At  this  station 
is  a  large  water-tank  supplied  with  water  from 
a  spring  in  the  mountains  on  the  right,  some 
ten  miles  away.  The  mountain  ranges  this  side 
of  Ogden  run  from  north  to  south,  parallel 
with  each  other,  and  the  raUroail  crosses  them 
over  low  divides  or  passes,  whUa  the  plains  of 
the  desert  lie  between  them.  To  our  right  a 
point  of  the  Pequop  Bange  ai)proache3  the 
track,  and  shuts  out  our  view  of  tho  Old  Pilot 
as  we  pass  up  the  grade  and  into  the  narrow 
defile. 

Loray,  nearly  on  the  summit  of  the  divide, 
13  657^  miles  from  San  Francisco,  with  an 
elevation  of  about  6,960  feet.  It  is  a  station  of 
no  particular  importance  to  travelers.  Wood 
and  timber,  cut  iu  the  mountains  for  the  use  of 
the  rood,  is  delivered  here. 

Toano — 650  miles  from  San  Francisco,  with 
an  elevation  of  5,973  feet,  formerly  the  western 
terminus  of  the  Salt  Lake  Division  of  the  Cen- 
tral Pacific,  and  183  miles  from  Ogden,  has  a 
roundhouse  with  six  stalls  anil  an  adjoining 
shed  where  two  engines  can  be  sheltered.  It 
has  the  usual  side  tracks,  coal-sheds  and  build- 
ings for  the  transaction  of  the  business  of  the 
company.  The  town  has  about  250  people. 
The  following  mining  districts  are  tributary  to 
this  place,  and  transact  the  most  of  their  busi- 
ness uere:  Silver  Zone,  distant  20  miles;  Dolly 
Varden,  55  miles;  Cherry  Creek,  100  miles; 
i^nn  Canon,  105  miles;  Shelbum,  110  miles; 
luneral  City,  130  miles;  Ward,  140  miles. 
They  Br«  all  south  of  the  railroad,  and  connect- 
ed with  Toano  by  a  good  wagon  road,  though 
there  are  no  mails  carried  bv  this  route.  A  great 
deal  of  freight  is  carried  to  tne  mines,  and  ore  and 
bullion  hauled  back.  The  road  is  destitute  of 
water  for  a  considerable  part  of  the  way,  and 
wells,  at  a  great  expense,  have  been  dug  in  some 
places,  from  which  water  is  sold  to  freighters. 
Formerly  very  rich  ore  was  found  in  some  of 
these  mines.  Twenty  car  i^oads  from  the  Pay- 
master Mine  in  the  Ward  DLjtrict  were  shipped 
in  January,  1876,  nineteen  of  which  averaged 
about  9800  per  ton,  and  one  car  averaged  a lit- 
tie  over  91,000  per  ton,  net.  The  valleys  south 
have  good  ranges  for  stock,  and  some  of  them. 


as  the  Steptoe  "Valley,  produce  excellent  crops 
of  small  grain  and  vegetables.  The  Toanc 
Range  of  Mountains  runs  from  north  to  south, 
and  heads  near  this  ^<lace.  On  the  road  to 
Pioche,  about  180  miles  from  Toano,  and  about 
half  a  mile  from  the  road,  is  the  Mammoth 
Cave  of  Nevada.  It  has  been  poi'tially  explored, 
but  its  extent  is  not  known.  Beautiful  speci- 
mens of  stalactites  and  crvstals  have  been  found 
here,  and  the  tourist  would  be  highly  interested 
in  a  visit  to  thi:?  cave,  which  in  a  short  time 
must  become  a  place  of  jpubli^"  resort. 

North  of  Toano,  the  Goose  ''reek  Bange  of 
Mountains,  which  divides  Goose  Creek  and 
Thousand  Spring  VaUey,  is  plainly  visible. 
The  Salmon  Falls  copper  mines,  on  Salmon 
Falls  Bivcr,  are  about  sixty  mUes  north,  and 
are  known  to  be  rich  in  copper. 

About  twenty  miles  south  of  the  town  a  road 
to  the  Deep  Creek  Mining  District  branches  oflf 
from  the  Pioche  road,  and  part  of  the  business  of 
that  mining  camp  is  done  here.  The  country 
immediately  around  Toano  is  barren  and  deso- 
late in  appearance — ^not  inviting  to  the  traveler 
or  settler. 

On  leaving  Toano  we  have  an  up  grade  to 
Moore's  Station,  about  thirtj;  miles.  In  the 
winter  great  difficulty  is  experienced  with  snow 
over  this  distance,  and  in  the  summer  the  route 
is  extremely  beautiful  and  picturesque.  Just 
west  of  the  town,  on  the  right,  the  low  hills  are 
covered  with  a  scattering  growth  of  scrub  pines 
and  cedars.  The  Pequop  Bange  juts  up  to  the 
town  on  the  south,  while  on  the  north  may 
still  be  seen  the  mountains  of  the  Goose  Creek 
Bange.  The  road  between  this  point  and  Wells 
ii  undulating,  and  I'lll  of  short  curves  and 
Leavy  grades.  Six  snow  sheds  are  passed,  in 
rapid  succession.  As  we  look  oft*  \  ,  the  right, 
the  hill  seems  to  descend  into  a  large  valley, 
with  a  range  of  mountains  beyond.  It  is  a  drjr, 
sage  brush  valley  and  continues  in  sight  until 
we  pass  Independence. 

Pequop— SiQ  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
with  an  elevation  of  6,184  feet.  It  is  simply  a 
side  track,  at  which  passenger  trains  do  not 
stop.  Passing  this,  we  next  reach  the  Otego 
telegraph  station,  which  is  only  used  in  winter, 
to  give  notice  of  snow-blocked  trains,  etc. 

Otego — station  and  side  track,  Avhich  is  635 
miles  from  San  Francisco,  with  an  elevation  of 
6,154  feet.  The  tourist  may  enjoy  a  magnifi- 
cent view  of  hills  and  mountains,  valleys  and 
dales,  as  we  pass  on  over  some  of  the  reverse 
curves  in  the  road.  The  old  Union  Pacific 
grade  is  still  seen  in  patches,  on  our  right. 
Pequop  Bange,  with  Independence  Valley,  now 
looms  grandly  into  view  on  our  left,  as  we 
tirrive  at 

Imlependence — 629  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, with  an  elevation  of  6,007  feet.  We  are 
now  crossing  a  low  divide  between  the  valley 


•,  (.( 


?'  '8 


Va^^M' 


192 


FMB  F^vxFw  'F&immr. 


I 


on  onr  right,  above  spoken  of,  and  Independ- 
ence Valley  on  onr  left.  This  Htation  is  on  a 
heavy  down  grade,  and  trains  going  west  siil- 
dom  stop.  The  Adter  tank  is  supplied  from 
springa  in  the  low  hills  off  to  tha  right,  and  the 
side  track  is  a  little  beyond  it.  We  now  pass 
to  the  right  around  an  isolated  mountain  that 
seems  to  guard  the  entrance  to  Independence 
Valley — and  then  to  the  left,  and  as  we  turn  to 
enter  the  pass  in  the  mountains  a  lovely  view 
of  this  beautiful  valley  is  again  obtained, 
stretching  away  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  It 
is  a  great  stock  range,  and  thousands  of  cattle 
annually  feed  upon  its  rich  nutritious  grasses. 
Turning  again  to  the  right  we  enter  what  is 
called  Cedar  Pass.  Passing  a  suction-house  at 
which  there  is  a  winter  telegraph  station  for  iise 
of  snow-bound  trains,  we  soon  reach  the  sum- 
mit of  the  divide  bstween  Independence  Val- 
ley and  the  valley  oi  the  Humboldt,  at 

Moor'H — 623  miles  from  San  Francisco,  with 
an  elevation  of  G,1G6  feet.  It  was  formerly 
quite  a  town  for  wood-choppers  and  frontiers- 
men, when  the  railroad  was  being  built;  but  its 
glory  han  departed  and  the  stakes  and  posts  ot 
a  few  houses  are  all  that  remain  to  mark  the 
spot.  Down  the  grade  we  go  into  the  far-famed 
Humboldt  Valley,  passing  Cedar,  a  side  track, 
where  a  camp  of  wood-choppers  in  the  moun- 
tains on  our  left  deliver  their  wood.  From 
Moor's  for  a  distance  of  310  mUes  there  is  with 
slight  exception  a  down  grade.  The  reader 
may  note  the  elevations  at  the  different  stations 
and  see  what  uniformity  prevails. 

Wells — 614  miles  from  San  Francisco,  with 
an  elevation  of  5,629  feet,  is  the  western  ter- 
minus of  the  Salt  Lake,  and  eastern  terminus 
of  the  Humboldt  division.  Its  population  of 
200  are  mostly  railroad  people.  A  roundhouse 
and  repair  shops  are  located  here,  and  snow- 

Slows  are  frequently  sent  out  from  this  point 
nring  the  storms  of  winter.  Just  as  we  enter 
the  town,  wo  pass  a  mountain  spur  on  our  left, 
and  Clover  Valley  bursts  into  view.  Its  name 
is  significant  as  it  abounds  in  the  natural  clover 
so  well  known  in  the  Eastern  States.  The  rail- 
road water  tank,  formerly  supplied  with  water 
pnmped  from  the  wells,  a  little  west  of  the 
town,  is  now  filled  from  a  mountain  spring  four 
miles  awav. 

Humboldt  Wells,  as  they  are  called,  give 
oelebritv  to  this  place.  They  are  really  springs 
about  thirty  in  number,  situated  mostly  in  a 
low  basin  half  a  mile  west  of  the  station. 
They  are  very  probably  natural  springs,  and 
from  the  nature  of  the  porous  soil  around 
them,  they  do  not  rise  and  flow  away  as  similar 
springs  do  in  a  more  compact  soiL  The  water, 
by  residents  here,  is  not  considered  brackish  at 
all,  nor  is  it  particularly  warm,  though  the 
springs  have  never  been  known  to  freeze  over. 
Thej  are  also  called  bottomless,  but  no  accurate 


knowledge  has  yet  been  iJublished  in  regard  to 
their  depth.  Thej  are  simply  deep  springs, 
but  the  opinion  is  here  entertained  that  a  lead 
and  line  would  soon  touch  bottom  in  them.  It 
was  the  great  watering  place  in  times  of  the  old 
emigrant  travel,  and  at  least  three  of  theso 
roads  converged  to  this  jjoint  and  united  here. 
These  were  the  Grass  Creek,  the  Tliousaud 
Spring  Valley  and  the  Cedar  Pass  Beads.  Emi- 
grants in  those  days  alwavs  rejoiced  when  they 
liatl  passed  the  perils  of  the  Great  American 
Desert,  and  arrived  at  these  springs  where 
there  was  plenty  of  water,  pure  and  sweet,  and 
an  abundance  of  grass  for  their  weary  and 
worn  animals.  Hence  it  was  a  favorite  camp- 
ing ground.  Visitors  approaching  these  springs 
in  the  summer,  and  springing  on  the  sod,  can 
fairly  shake  the  adjoining  springs,  a  fact  that 
leads  to  the  opinion  entertained  by  some  that 
they  are  really  openiugs  of  a  lake,  which  has 
been  gratluaUy  covered  over  by  the  accumula- 
tion of  grass  and  grass  roots  and  other  luxuri- 
ant vegetation,  which  abounds  along  and  around 
the  basin.  The  fai-t  that  the  ground  around 
tlieso  springs  is  so  clastic,  and  tlie  known  inci- 
dents in  history,  ■'.vhere  luxuriant  vegetation 
has  frequently  caused  islands  in  rivers  and 
lakes,  suggests  this  opinion,  and  a  thorough 
investigation  may  establish  the  theory  that 
there  is  in  this  basin  simply  a  covered  lake,  of 
which  the  springs  uio  openings.  The  confor- 
mation of  the  land  around  the  basin  also  tends 
to  establish  the  truth  of  this  theory.  The  basin 
is  the  receptacle  of  the  drainage  of  a  largo  water- 
shed, and  there  are  high  mountains  nearly  all 
around  it.  These  springs  abound  in  fish — the 
little  minnows  that  are  so  common  in  the 
brooks  and  small  streams  in  the  Eastern  Statea 
Other  kinds  there  may  be,  but  these  only  have 
been  caught.  The  apertures  difiier  in  size,  and 
tlie  openings  to  some  are  much  larger  than  the 
openings  in  others.  If  they  were  on  a  side- 
hill  everybody  would  call  them  springs,  but 
inasmucli  as  uiey  are  in  a  low  basin,  they  are 
called  wells. 

Mr.  Hamill,  a  merchant  of  Wells,  says  that 
he  took  a  piece  of  railroad  iron  and  tied  some 
lariat  ropes  to  it  (about  160  feet),  and  could 
find  no  bottom  in  tne  deepest  springs  which  he 
sounded  with  that  length  of  rope.  He  further 
says  that  a  government  exploring  purty,  under 
command  of  Lieutenant  Cuppinger,  visited 
Wells  in  1870  and  took  soundings  of  the  springs 
to  a  depth  of  from  1,500  to  1,700  feet  and  found 
no  bottom.  These  soundings  were  of  the 
largest  springs  or  wells,  and  while  his  state- 
ment may  be  true,  even  soundings  to  this 
depth  do  not  render  them  bottomless. 

How  to  see  them  and  know  where  they  are,  is 
the  next  thing  of  consequence  to  the  traveler. 
As  you  pass  west  of  the  station,  notice  the  end 
of  a  piece  of  the  old  Union  Pacific  grade;  next 


WMM   1P^C^iFi€  WQWMXHW. 


id3 


egaril  to 
springs, 
,t  a  lead 
lem.     It 
if  the  ol.l 
of  tlxeso 
ied  here;, 
'housauil 
la.    Eini- 
hen  tlioy 
\iiiericaii 
;8  where 
weet,  and 
eary  and 
ite  camp- 
ie  springs 

Bod,  can 
I  fact  that 
jome  that 
vhich  has 
iccumuhi- 
ler  luxuri- 
nd  around 
id  around 
aowa  inci- 
vegetation 
•ivers  and 
,  thorough 
leory   that 
3d  lake,  of 
he  confor- 
also  tends 

Tho  basin 
irge  water- 
1  nearly  all 
fish— the 
ya.  in  the 
«rn  States. 
3  only  have 
a  size,  and 
jr  than,  the 

on  a  side- 
jrings,  but 
n,  they  are 


», 


says  that 
I  tied  some 
and  could 
58  -which  he 
He  further 
arty,  under 
[er,    visited 
thespringa 
t  and  found 
ere   of   the 
his  state- 
;8  to   this 

38. 

they  are,  is 
he  traveler. 
itice  the  end 
grade;  next 


the  graves  surrounded  bv  painted  fences;  tlien 
off  to  the  right  a  heap  of  stones,  where  the  en- 
gine-house was  buUt— the  engine  being  used  to 
force  water  from  the  well,  which  is  just  beyond 
this  heap  of  stones,  to  the  tank  alongside  of 
the  track.  The  heavy  growth  of  grass  around 
the  place  will  indicate  where  this  well  is  in 
Bommer,  and  the  accumulated  deposits  of  this 
grass  have  raised  a  little  rim  around  this  particu- 
\ax  well — and  the  same  is  true  of  others  in  its 
immediate  vicinity. 
Travelers  will  take  notice  that  a  mail  and  ex- 

Sress  stage  lino  leaves  Wells  tri-weekly — Mon- 
ays,  Wednesdays  and  Fridays — in  the  morn- 
ing for  Sprucemont,  35  miles;  Cheri^  Creek, 
Ma  miles;  Egan  Canon,  90  miles,  and  Ward,  130 
miles  distant. 

There  are  estimated  to  be  about  for  Ly  ranches 
b  Clover  "Valley,  and  as  many  in  Ruby  Valley. 
These  ranchmen  are  engaged  in  agriculture  and 
itock  growing.  They  raise  wheat,  barley,  oats, 
and  splendid  vegetables.  Wells  has  extensive 
atockyards  to  accommodate  the  largd  shipments 
of  cattle  annually  made  from  these  ranches. 
The  valley  in  tnis  immediate  vicinity  is  the 
■oene  of  the  annual  "  round-ups,"  every  spring. 
Oedar  Par .  Range  is  the  range  on  our  left,  as 
▼6  come  through  bv  Moor'-  Station.  West  of 
this  range  and  south  of  Weils  is  Clover  Valley. 
The  tourist  will  see  "  Castle  Peak  "  on  tho  fur- 
ther side  of  this  valley  as  the  train  pauses  at  the 
■tation,  and  this  peak  is  on  the  northern  end  of 
Baby  Bange,  and  it  is  always  covered  with 
snow.  Buby  Valley  is  nearly  due  south  of  tho 
« Castle,"  which  you  see  in  the  mountain,  and 
il  divided  from  Clover  Valley  by  a  spur  of  this 
nnge,  which  turns  into  it  like  a  hook.  Ruby 
Bange  is  about  150  miles  long,  and  we  only  see 
its  northern  extremity  at  Wells. 

North  of  Wells,  across  the  first  range,  lies  the 
Thousand  Spring  Valley — then  across  another 
Vm  divide,  you  will  strike  a  valley  whose 
Wftters  flow  northwest  through  the  Columbia 
Biver  to  the  Pacific  Ocean.  Fishermen  will 
bear  in  mind  that  salmon  trout  are  caught  in 
this  valley  in  the  spring  of  the  year.  The 
itream  is  a  branch  of  the  Salmon  Falls  River, 
which  empties  into  Snake  River,  about  120 
miles  north  of  this  station. 

It  may  be  well  to  remark  here  that  the  moun- 
tittn  ranges  in  Nevada,  as  in  Utah,  generally 
otend  from  north  to  south — and  the  only  ex- 
oeption  to  this  rule  is  where  there  are  broken 
or  detached  ranges,  or  isolated  peaks.  Leaving 
Wells,  the  foot  hillB  on  our  left,  in  a  short  dis- 
tanoe,  obscure  a  view  of  the  high  peaks  in  the 
Baby  Bange;  but  they  soon  reappear  as  we 
pass  down  the  valley,  and  are  our  constant 
companions,  only  a  short  distance  away,  until 
▼e  leave  Halleck.  Between  the  Humboldt 
Biver  and  the  base  of  these  mountains,  there  is 
•a  elevated  bench  covered  with  the  usual  sage 


brush  and  greasewood,  while  in  the  valley  and 
alou<r  the  borders  of  the  stream  grass  land  pro- 
dommates.  An  extensive  stock-deal  -  wlrn" 
asked  about  the  qualifications,  etc.,  f 01  j  "  ., 
cattle,  said  that  "there  was  about  one' acre  of 
grass  to  seventy-five  acres  of  sage  brush,"  and 
a  limited  observation  of  this  part  of  the  State, 
at  least,  proves  that  he  was  not  far  out  of  the 
way.  As  we  descend  the  river,  however,  a 
gradual  increase  in  grass  lands  will  be  observed, 
while,  in  places,  the  greasewood  which,  so  far 
as  we  know,  is  entirely  useless,  grows  in  aston- 
ishing luxuriance.  ,' 

Taluseo— 607  miles  from  San  Francisco, with ' 
an  elevation  of  5,482  feet.  The  valley  seems  to 
widen  out  as  we  descend  it,  and  bushes  grow  in 
bunches  along  the  banks  of  the  stream  as  if  the 
old  earth,  imder  the  most  favorable  conditions, 
was  trying  to  produce  trees  to  beautify  and 
adorn  these  barren  plains.  Soon  Bishop's  Val- 
ley can  be  seen  on  our  right.  Looking  to  the 
left,  we  see  the  canon  in  the  mountain  side, 
down  which  rushes  Trout  Creek,  when  th« 
snows  are  melting  in  the  spring  and  early  sum- 
mer. This  creek  abounds  in  "  speckled  beau- 
ties," and  unites  with  the  Humboldt  about  a 
mile  and  a  half  below  Bishop's  Creek,  which 
we  soon  cross,  through  a  covered  bridge. 

Bisliop'a  is  another  side  track  station,  but 
on  we  glide  through  the  valley  as  it  widens  out 
into  magnificent  proportions.  It  is  602  miles 
from  San  Francisco,  and  has  an  elevation  of 
5,412  feet.  Another  little  creek  and  valley  now 
appear  on  our  right,  and  we  soon  arrive  at 

Deeth — 594  miles  from  San  Francisco;  eleva- 
tion, 5,340  feet.  It  is  a  telegraph  station,  and 
has  a  few  buildings  around  it.  The  valley  seems 
very  broad  as  we  approach  this  station,  and 
evidences  of  settlement  tud  cultivation  begnn 
to  appear.  The  bushes  iJid  willows  along  the 
banks  of  the  stream  increase,  and  it  is  a  paniF 
dise  for  ducks  and  geese. 

Natcliez  is  simply  a  side-track  and  unim- 
portant station,  and 

Halleck  is  the  next  station,  581  miles  from 
San  Francisco,  with  an  elevation  of  6,230  feet 
It  is  named  from  Camp  Halleck,  which  is  located 
at  the  base  of  the  mountains,  thirteen  miles 
from  the  station,  and  across  the  river.  A  few 
troops  are  usually  kept  here — two  or  three 
companies — and  all  the  freighting  and  business 
of  the  post  is  done  from  this  station.  The 
town  itself  has  a  post-oifice,  hotel,  a  small  store 
and  the  usral  saloons  where  "  lingering  death" 
or  "blue  rain"  is  doled  out  to  soldiers  and 
others  who  patronize  them.  It  is  probable 
that  good  crops  of  wheat,  barley  and  oats  could 
be  raised  here  by  irrigating  the  land,  but  it  is 
mostly  occupied  as  stock  ranges.  Camp  Hal- 
leck is  not  plainly  seen  from  the  railroad, 
though  a  few  buildmgs  a  little  removed  from  ifc 
will  point  out  its  locality.     A  regular  mail 


M 


:  i' 


W:  i 


194 


WBEi  ^aciFw  FQtmmr. 


ambulance  runs  daily  between  it  and  the  station. 
The  camp  ia  delightfully  located,  well  watered, 
and  is  surrounded  with  thriving  groves  of  Cot- 
tonwood trees.  Leaving  Holleck,  Elko  Moun- 
tain seems  to  rise  on  our  right  close  to  thd 
track,  but  the  road  soon  turns  and  we  pass  this 
landmark  on  our  left.  The  Ruby  Range  which 
we  have  seen  away  to  the  left,  from  Wells  to 
the  last  station,  is  now  left  in  the  rear  as  wo 
turn  westward  again,  and  pass  down  one  of  the 
Humboldt  Canons. 

Peko  is  the  next  station,  merely  a  side  track 
and  section-house  at  the  head  of  the  first  canon 
on  the  river.  It  is  578  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, with  an  elevation  of  5,204  feet.  We  are 
now  at  the  head  of  the  Humboldt  Canon,  the 
first  one  through  which  the  river  passes.  It  is 
not  wild  and  rugged,  but  nevertheless  suflB- 
ciently  so  to  make  it  interesting.  A  siiort  dis- 
tance oelow  Peko,  the  North  Fork  of  Humboldt 
comes  in.  It  is  about  as  large  as  the  main 
body,  and  is  a  peculiar  stream.  It  rises  nearly 
north  of  Carlm,   some  distance  west  of  this 

Soint,  and  runs  to  the  northeast  for  a  distance, 
len  nearly  east,  and  finally  turns  toward  the 
southwest,  and  unites  \vith  the  Humboldt  at 
thia  point.  The  road  through  this  canon  is 
full  of  short  curves,  and  winds  like  a  serpent 
through  the  hills.  Now  it  seems  as  though  the 
train  would  be  thrown  into  a  heap  at  the  base 
of  the  hill  we  are  approaching,  but  a  turn  to 
the  right  or  left  saves  us  from  such  a  calamity. 
Once  or  twice  before  we  reach  Osino,  the  valley 
opens  out  between  the  hills,  and  where  the 
North  Fork  enters  there  is  an  abundance  of 
grass  which  is  monopolized  by  a  ranchman.  At 
the  next  station, 

Osltto — 566  miles  from  San  Francisco,  with 
an  elevation  of  5,132  feet — a  mere  side  track — 
we  enter  upon  an  open  valley,  and  for  about 
nine  mUes  pass  over  a  nearly  straight  track. 
The  valley  is  all  taken  up  by  ranchmen  and 
farmers,  and  good  crops  are  raised  by  iitiga- 
tion.  The  water  is  taken  from  the  Humboldt 
above,  brought  down  in  a  ditch,  from  which  it 
is  taken  and  distributed  among  the  farms. 

Elko— 55S  miles  from  San  Francisco,  with  on 
elevation  of  5,063  feet.  It  is  the  regulai'  break- 
fast and  supper  station  of  the  road,  and  pas- 
sengers get  an  excellent  meal  in  a  neat,  well- 
kept  house.  In  the  midst  of  a  game  and  ^sh 
country,  the  table  is  generally  supplied  in  the 
proper  season.  Passengers  nave  half  an  hour 
for  their  meal. 

Elko  is  the  county-seat  of  Elko  County — ^the 
northeastern  county  of  the  State.  It  has  a 
population  of  about  1,200,  and  is  one  of  the 
important  commercial  and  educational  centers 
of  the  State.  It  has  a  large  brick  court-house 
and  jail,  one  church,  on  excellent  publio  school, 
and  is  the  seat  of  the  State  University.  This 
institution  has  forty  acres  of  ground  on  a  bench 


of  land  overlooking  the  city,  in  plain  sight  of 
the  cars  on  the  right,  just  before  reaching  the 
town.  It  was  first  opened  in  1875.  The  money 
paid  for  freights  rousigned  to  this  place  and  tho 
mining  districts  which  are  tributary  to  it,  in  IS73 
amounted  to  nearly  3^0U,(X)0,  and  the  first  year 
the  railroad  was  completed  ran  up  to  uvur 
$1,000,000.  The  trade  of  the  place  has  docreascnl 
owing  to  the  fluctuations  of  the  mines  tributary 
to  it,  and  the  loss  of  the  business  of  Eureka 
and  other  points  south,  near  the  line  of  the 
Eureka  and  Palismle  liailroad.  The  town  hiis 
iiumei'ous  retail  stores  and  two  or  three  wholes 
sale  establishments,  with  e,  bank,  a  flouriiif^ 
mill,  l)rewcry,  hotels,  etc.  Water  taken  from 
the  Humboldt  River,  somo  seventeen  miles  dis- 
tant, and  brought  hero  in  pipes,  supplies  tlio 
city.  It  has  three  large  freight  depots  for  tho 
accommodation  of  its  railroaid  business,  and  is 
the  location  of  tho  United  States  Laud  Otlico 
for  tho  Elko  Land  District.  Indians,  mostly 
the  Shoshones,  of  all  sizes  and  of  both  sexes, 
hover  around  the  town  and  beg  from  the  trains 
of  cars.  They  still  bedaub  themselves  with 
paint,  and  strut  around  with  feathers  in  their 
hats  in  true  Indian  style.  About  one  and  a 
half  miles  north  of  the  river  and  west  of  the 
town,  are  a  group  of  mineral  springs  that  are 
already  attracting  the  attention  of  invalids. 
There  are  six  springs  in  this  group,  three  hot 
and  three  cold.  The  hot  springs  show  185* 
Fahrenheit,  and  one  of  them,  called  the 
'*  Chicken  Soup  Spring,"  has  water  which,  with 
a  little  salt  and  pepjicr  for  seasoning,  tastes 
very  much  like  chicken  broth.  Tourists  in 
search  of  wonderful  curiosities  should  not  fail 
to  visit  these  springs  and  observe  the  craters  of 
those  which  are  now  extinct.  The  sediment  or 
incrustations  formed  by  the  water  into  some 
kind  of  porous  rock,  accumulated  around  the 
apertures  until  at  length  they  were  raised,  in 
one  instance,  about  three  feet  above  the  surface 
of  the  ground,  with  u  hollow  basin  at  least  one 
foot  in  _  diameter  on  the  top.  Other  extinct 
springs  are  not  oa  high  as  this  one,  but  shov 
the  same  formation  and  have  the  same  pecu- 
liarities. Of  the  hot  flowing  springs — said  to 
be  white  sulphur — two  are  quite  large,  and  one 
of  them  is  said  to  contain  a  large  solution  of 
iron.  A  bathing-house  has  been  erected  a  short 
distance  away,  to  which  the  water  is  conducted, 
and  in  which  there  are  private  bathing-rooms 
supplied  with  both  hot  and  cold  water  from  the 
spring.  There  is  also  a  large  plunge  bath  near 
by,  with  dressing-rooms  adjoinmg,  and  a  hotel 
for  the  accommodation  of  guests.  There  is  s 
public  conveyance  running  between  the  city 
and  the  springs  for  the  accommodation  of  visi- 
tors. The  waters  are  claimed  to  be  a  certain 
cure  for  rheumatism  and  all  diseases  of  the 
blood;  to  have  a  remarkable  effect  in  paralytic 
cases;  to  have  a  good  effect  ou  consumptives, 


196 


ain  sight  of 
■oachiug  tilt) 

The  money 
)lace  and  t.lio 
to  it,  in  3  S75 
ho  firnt  year 
up  to  ovur 
as  (locreascil 
les  tributary 
s  of  Eureka 

line  of  tlio 
he  town  hixs 
three  ■whole- 
:,  a  flouring 

taken  from 
en  miles  (lis- 
supplies  tlio 
ipots  for  tlio 
mess,  and  in 
i  Land  Ofliee 
Lians,  mostly 
I  both  sexes, 
)m  the  trains 
mselves  with 
hers  in  their 
it  one  and  a 
I  west  of  the 
ings  that  are 

of   invalids, 
ap,  three  hot 
[8  show  185» 
,    called    the 
ir  which,  with 
loning,  tastes 
Tourists  in 
hould  not  foil 
the  craters  of 
e  sediment  or 
ter  into  some 
d  around  the 
rere  raised,  in 
ive  the  surface 
in  at  least  one 
Other  extinct 
one,  but  show 
16  same  pecu- 
rings — said  to 
large,  and  one 
;e  solution  of 
erected  a  short 
r  is  conducted, 
bathing-rooms 
water  from  the 
.unge  bath  near 
ig,  and  a  hotel 
».    There  is  » 
iween  the  city 
odation  of  visi- 
to  be  a  certain 
diseases  of  the 
set  in  paralytic 
.  consumptives, 


-f 


when  the  disease  is  not  too  far  advanowd;  to 
cure  fevers  of  all  kinds,  and  the  miners  who 
become  poisoned  with  the  lead  disease,  by 
working  among  antimonial  ores.  The  uniform 
temperature  of  the  hot  springs  has  been  further 
utilized  in  hatching  chickens,  and  the  experi- 
ment, if  carried  to  perfection,  will  beat  all  the 
setting  hens  in  the  country. 

Tuscarora  and  Cornucopia  are  tributary  to 
Elko,  and  contribute  to  its  prosperity.  The 
former  is  forty-seven  miles  north.    Tuscarora  is 


/ 


,  it^  ■ 


196 


TMM  ^OlCiFiC  TOVniST. 


the  principal  town  in  the  district  The  mines, 
like  thoHu  in  the  Gomucupia  district,  are  in  a 
porphyry  formation  with  free  milling  ore. 
Cornucopia  district  is  about  thirty  miles  north 
of  Tuscarora.  Other  districts  are  the  Centen- 
nial and  Cope  near  the  head  waters  of  the  North 
Fork  of  the  Humboldt.  Stages  run  daily  to 
Tuscarom  and  Cornucopia.  In  the  vicinity  of 
the  mining  districts  there  are  rich  agricultural 
valleys,  where  all  kinds  of  grain  except  com 
are  extensively  raised,  and  vegetables  and 
melons  grow  to  a  great  size  and  excellence. 
There  are  also  vast  stock  ranges  tributary  to 
Elko.  There  is  a  weekly  stage  line  to  the  H outh 
Fork  of  the  Humboldt  and  Huntingdon  Valley. 
From  these  and  other  valleys  Elko  receives 
larce  numbers  of  cattle  to  be  shipped  by  rail 

Elko  has  one  daily  and  two  weekly  papers 
■which  are  well  supported.  The  Post  is  a  weekly, 
Bepublioan  in  politics,  and  the  Independent, 
daily  and  weekly,  is  Democratic  in  politics. 

The  valley  of  the  Fumboldt  continues  to 
widen  as  we  leave  Elko  for  a  few  miles,  and  if 
it  is  winter  or  in  the  cool  mornings  of  spring  or 
autumn,  we  will  see  the  steam  rising  in  oloiids 
from  the  Hot  Springs  across  the  river  near  the 
vagon  bridge,  on  our  left.  The  pasture  and 
meadow  lands,  with  occasional  houses,  are  soon 
passed,  and  we  arrive  at 

Moleen — 546  miles  from  San  Francisco,  with 
an  elevation  of  4,982  feet.  It  is  simply  a  side 
track  station,  with  no  settlements  around  it,  and 
trains  seldom  stop.  The  same  general  appear- 
ance of  the  valley  and  low  ranges  on  either  side 
continue  to  this  place.  Occasionally  as  we  have 
glanced  to  the  left,  the  high  peaks  of  theBuby 
Bange  have  lifted  themselves  into  view,  over- 
topping the  nearer  and  lower  range  that  borders 
the  river  on  the  south.  Passing  Moleen,  the 
valley  begins  to  narrow,  and  the  river  gorges 
fhroagh  the  Five  Mile  Canon.  Close  to  the 
blofis  we  roll  along  and  suddenly,  fdmost  over 
our  heads,  the  beating  storms  of  ages  have 
washed  out  the  softer  and  more  porous  parts  of 
the  ledges,  leaving  turrets  and  peaks,  towers  and 
domes  standing  along  in  irregular  order.  This 
peculiar  formation  is  known  in  this  vicinity  as 
the  "  Moleen  Bocks. "  The  road  curves  to  con- 
form to  the  line  of  the  earth  now  one  way  and 
now  another.  The  scenery  here  is  not  grand 
and  sublime,  but  just  enough  peculiar  to  be  in- 
teresting. The  towering  ledges  in  this  canon,  or 
in  th9  one  below,  are  not  a  thousand  or  fifteen 
hundred  feet  high — for  accurate  measurements 
have  placed  them  at  about  800  feet.  This  canon 
is  soon  passed  and  the  valley  opens  out  agpain. 
We  soon  cross  Susan's  Creek,  and  then  Maggie's 
Creek,  then  Mary's  Creek,  and  we  are  at 

Gorlin— 535  nules  from  San  Francisco,  at 
■a  elevation  of  of  4,907  feet.  It  is  a  railroad 
town,  the  terminus  of  a  division  of  the  road 
and  the  location  of  the  roundhouse,  machine 


car  and  repair  shops  of  the  Humboldt  Divisinn 
of  till!  Central  racilic  Railroad.  It  is  the  hciul- 
quarters  of  Mr.  G.  W.  Coddiiijjton,  the  Division 
JSuperintendent.  The  division  extends  frmii 
Wells  to  VVinneniucca,  and  this  place  is  iihoiit 
half  way  between  them.  The  town  has  no  busi- 
ness outside  of  the  railroad  shops  and  eniployts, 
and  numbers  abo  it  6U0  people.  The  rouml- 
house  has  10  stalls  for  engines,  and  the  repiiir 
shop,  six  pits.  It  is  in  KIko  County.  The  old 
emigrant  road  divided  just  before  reaching  Car- 
lin,  one  branch  going  south  of  the  river,  and  tlii> 
range  of  mountains  l)ordering  tlie  same,  and  tlif 
other  going  north  of  the  hills  on  the  north  side  of 
the  river.  These  two  road;;  came  together  below, 
near  Gravelly  Ford.  In  the  vicinity  of  Carliii 
the  fear  little  creeks  come  in  from  the  nortli. 
In  the  order  in  which  they  are  crossed,  they  uio 
called  Susie,  Maggie,  Mary  and  Amelia.  Tra- 
dition says  in  regard  to  these  names,  that  <'in 
emigrant  was  crossing  the  plains  with  his  laniy 
at  an  early  day,  and  that  in  this  family  wck; 
four  daugnters  in  the  order  given,  and  that  us 
the  party  came  to  these  streams,  they  gave  tlie 
name  of  each  one  of  the  daughters  to  them — 
a  vei-y  appropriate  thing  to  do,  and  their  names 
have  been  perpetuated  in  history.  Just  east 
of  Moleen  Station,  the  tourist  looking  off  to  the 
left,  will  notice  the  break  or  gorge  through  the 
low  hills,  on  the  south  side  of  the  river.  Through 
this  gorge  the  South  Fork  of  the  Humboldt 
comes  in.  This  stream  rises  in  the  Ruby  Range 
of  Mountains  and  flows  in  a  general  westerly 
direction,  uniting  with  the  main  river  at  this 
point.  We  will  here  state  tliat  nearly  all  tlie 
people  in  the  vicinity,  call  the  range  of  mount- 
ains last  alluded  to  ''  Ruby,"  and  we  have  fol- 
lowed the  custom ;  but  Lieutenant  Wheeler's  Map 
speaks  of  it  as  the  Humboldt  Range,  and  oocoid- 
ing  to  the  custom  of  the  people  along  this  valley, 
nearly  every  range  of  mountains  in  sight,  from 
one  side  of  the  State  to  the  other,  is  called  "  Hum- 
boldt Range,"  or  "  Humboldt  Mountains."  As 
to  the  fertility  of  these  and  other  valleys  in  this 
part  of  the  State,  it  all  depends  upon  irrigation. 
A  sage  brush  plain  indicates  good  soil,  but  water 
must  be  obtained  to  raise  a  crop.  An  effort  has 
been  made  to  make  Crlin  the  shipping  point  to 
the  mining  districts  on  the  noiih,  but  without 
much  success  thus  far.  The  iron  horses  are 
changed  here,  and  with  a  fresh  steed  we  pass 
down  the  valley.  It  is  quite  wide  here,  but  ^vill 
soon  narrow  as  we  enter  the  Twelve  Mile  Canon. 
Like  the  former,  the  road  winds  around  the  base 
of  the  bluffs  and  almost  under  the  ledges,  with 
the  river    sometimes    almost    under    us.    'i'he 

Eeaks  and  ledges  seem  to  have  no  local  name, 
ut  some  of  them  are  very  singular.  In  one 
place,  soon  after  entering  the  canon,  the  ledges 
on  the  right  side  of  the  track  seem  to  stand  up 
on  edge,  and  broken  into  very  irregular,  serrated 
lines, — the  teeth  of  the  ledge  being  uneven  a^  to 


1 


tmm  ^^iciFiG  rotmiST. 


197 


;  Division 

tll«  llPinl- 

>  DiviHiiiii 
lulw  fimii 
:e  is  lilxiiil 
18  no  l)iisi- 
eiiiployt's, 
['he  loiiml- 
the  repiiir 
.  The  .il.l 
chiiiR  C'ar- 
er,  and  tlic 
ne,  and  tin' 
orth  sidf  (if 
ther  bflow, 
y  of  Cavliii 
the  north. 
d,  they  are 
lelia.  Tia- 
>8,  tliat  an 
li  his  fan  ; 
amily  w'k; 
md  tliat  as 
ey  gave  the 

to   tlieni— 
their  names 
Just  east 
g  oft  to  the 
through  the 
;r.   Tinoiigh 
B  HuinboUit 
Ruby  Range 
!ral  westeily 
river  at  tliis 
jarly  all  the 
;e  of  nioiiut- 
we  have  fol- 
heeler'p  Map 
!,  and  accoid- 
g  this  valUy, 
1  sight,  f iiim 
ailed  "  Hum- 
mtains."    As 
alleys  in  this 
jn  irrigation, 
oil,  but  water 
An  effort  has 
ping  point  to 

but  without 
)n  horses  are 
teed  we  pass 
here,  but  will 
e  Mile  Canon. 
ound  the  base 
le  ledges,  with 
der  us.  The 
0  local  name, 
ular.  In  one 
on,  the  ledges 
m  to  stand  up 
gular,  serrated 
g  uneven  a.*;  to 


length.  The  height  of  the  bluffs  and  of  the 
palisades  below,  is  about  the  same  as  in  the 
former  canon — 8(M»  feet.  In  some  places  the  pal- 
isades ar«»  hollowed  out  like  caves  or  open 
arches,  and  the  <lebris  that  has  crumbled  and 
fallen  from  their  summits  during  the  ages, 
obscures  their  full  form  and  height  from  view. 
Twelve   Mile   Canon,    in   the    i'alisades,  was 

S-aded  in  six  weeks  by  the  Central  Pacitic 
ailroad  Company,  one  cut  herein  containiiig 
0,600  cubic  yards.  Five  Mile  Canon  just  east- 
ward, was  graded  in  three  weeks,  with  a  force  of 
r),l)00  to  0,000  men. 

With  the  perpendicular  walls  rising  on  ea>  I. 
side  of  us,  we  glide  around  the  curves,  and  in 
the  midst  of  these  reddish  lines  of  towering 
rocks,  arrive  at 

i*«//«rtrlc,— 578  miles  from  San  F.  .ncisco, 
with  an  elevation  of  4,841  feet.  It  is  the  initial 
point  of  the  Eureka  &  Palisade  Railroad,  is  a 
growing  little  place  between  the  wall  rocks  ol  ihe 
river,  and  has  a  population  of  from  ];>(»  to  200 
souls,  it  has  one  or  two  hotels  or  lodging-houses, 
stores,  saloons,  two  large  freight  dejwts,  and  the 
machine  and  repair  shops  of  the  Eureka  & 
Palisade  Bailroatt.  A  new  station-house,  ticket 
and  telegraph  office  has  been  constructed  hero 
— the  finest  in  Nevada — to  be  occupied  and 
used  by  both  the  Central  Faciflo  and  Eureka 
and  Palisade  roads. 

The  town  is  located  about  half  tfte  distance 
down  the  canon,  and  the  rocky,  perpendicular 
walls  give  it  a  picturesque  appearance.  The 
lower  half  of  the  canon  is  not  as  wild  and  rug- 
ged, however,  as  the  upi>er  half.  All  freight, 
which  is  mostly  base  bullion,  that  is  shipped 
from  Eureka  and  other  points  on  this  branch 
road,  has  to  be  transferred  here,  and  the  traveler 
may  sometimes  be  surprised,  in  passing,  at  the 
immens3  piles  of  bullion  which  may  here  be  seen 
on  the  platform  of  the  railroad  companies.  On 
a  hill  to  the  right  is  a  wooden  reservoir  supplied 
by  springs,  from  which  the  water  used  in  town 
is  taken.  The  canon  above  was  not  used  for  the 
purposes  of  travel  before  the  passage  of  the  Cen- 
tral Pacific,  Road — not  even  a  horseman  ventur- 
ing through  it. 

Shoshone  Indian  Village.— Just  below 
the  town  is  what  Fenimore  Cooper  would  doubt- 
less call  an  Indian  Village,  but  it  require?:  a  great 
stretch  of  the  imagination  on  the  part  of  tl.  !  prac- 
tical American,  or  live  Yankee,  now-a-days,  to  see 
it.  A  dozen  or  so  tents,  discolored  with  smoke 
and  besmeared  with  dirt  and  grease,  revealing 
from  six  to  ten  squalid  beings  covered  with  ver- 
min, filth  and  rags,  is  not  calculated  to  create  a 
pleasing  impression,  or  awaken  imaginary  flights 
to  any  great  extent.  Between  Ogden  and  Battle 
Mountain,  the  Indians  now  seen  on  the  line  of  the 
rotid  are  mostly  Shoshones.  Their  reservation 
proper,  for  this  part  of  the  country,  is  at  Carlin, 
but  yery  few  of  tnem  are  on  it.    For  some  reason 


best  kifowii  to  themselves,  they  prefer  to  loolt 
out  for  themselves  rather  than  receive  the  small 
annual  amount  appropriated  by  the  government 
for  their  maintenance.  They  are  all  inveterate 
gamblers,  and  a  group  of  squaws  will  sit  on  the 
ground  for  hours,  aroind  a  blanket  stretched  out, 
and  throw  sticks.  There  are  usually  five  of 
these  flat  sticks,  from  four  to  six  inches  in 
length,  one  side  of  which  is  colored  slightly. 
Each  one  has  a  rock,  a  piece  of  coal,  or  some 
other  hard  substance  by  her  side,  and  slightly 
inclined  toward  the  blanket.  She  will  then 
gather  the  sticks  in  her  hand  and  throw  them 
uiwn  this  rock  so  that  they  will  l)ound  on  to  the 
blanket,  and  the  point  of  the  game  seems  to  be, 
which  side  of  the  sticks,  the  colored  or  plain, 
comes  up  in  falling.  It  peems  to  be  a  perfect 
game  of  chance,  and  the  one  who  throws  so  that 
the  nticks  all  fall  colored  side  up,  s^ems  to  have 
some  advantage  in  the  game.  There  is  said  to 
be  some  improvement  in  their  methods  of  living 
during  the  last  fifteen  years  ;  some  of  them  have 
been  employed  on  ranches,  and  some  of  the 
squaws  are  employed  in  doing  the  plainest  kinds 
of  housewoik ;  thn  children  and  younger  mem- 
bers of  the  tribe  are  most  all  becoming  acquainted 
with  the  English  language,  and  all,  so  far  as  they 
are  able,  are  gradually  adopting  the  civilized 
customs  of  dress,  etc.,  though  they  invariably, 
thus  far,  paint  their  faces. 
EVREKA  AXD  PALISADE  «.  R. 

E.  MiLiiS,  President,     -     -     -     Eubeka,  Nay. 
P.  EvEBTS,  Gen'l  Supt.,      -    -  "  " 

J.  L.  Fast,     "    F.,  P.  &;T.  Agt.,       "  " 

This  is  a  three  foot  uarrow-gaugo  road,  run- 
ning south  from  Palisade  to  Eureka,  ninety 
miles.  It  was  completed  in  October,  1874,  and 
is  one  of  the  best  paying  roads  for  the  invest- 
ment in  all  the  country.  The  cai'S  are  exceed- 
ingly neat  and  comfortable,  and  the  average 
time  nearly  twenty-five  miles  an  hour.  The 
course  is  west,  across  the  Humboldt  River, 
and  then  south  up  Pine  Valley,  a  region  of 
sage  brush,  to 

Bulli>>n — S  miles  from  Palisade.  Next  is 
Evans,  simply  a  side  track,  with  the  Gortez 
Mountains  on  the  west  or  right,  and  the  Dia- 
mond Range  opposite.  Agriculture  is  limited, 
but  cattle  and  sheep  find  extensiva  ranges 
among  the  hills. 

Willard's  is  15  miles  from  Palisade,  and 
Hat  Ranch  19  miles.  Here  are  2,500  acres  of 
meadow  land  owned  by  the  railroad  compouj. 
About  1,000  tons  of  hay  are  cut  and  stored  an- 
nually. From  the  terminus  of  the  road  at 
Eureka,  the  company  send  hay  by  !;°am3  of 
their  own  to  southeastern  Nevada — as  far  as 
Pioche.  They  employ  from  300  to  400  mules 
for  freighting  purposes,  and  their  ranch  shows 
unmistakable  signs  of  profit  to  the  road. 

Box  Springs — 28  miles — is  a  signal  station. 


'I 


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r'l^^B'Hnu  ) 

1;  I^RmI 

iH|n  : 

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ill 

1  ^HHbm 

iHp 

ill 

H! 

SCENES  IN  THE  HUMBOLDT  DESERT. 

1.— Tha  Sink  of  the  Humboldt.    2.— Mountain  Scene  near  Deeth.    3.— Qroupof  Piute  India:) 

n.— Great  American  Desert,  Eaat  of  Elko.    6.— VTadiworth. 


199 


Undoubtedly  in  the  early  history  of  the  red 
men  were  to  be  found  many  examples  of  noble 
manhood  in  wild-life,  but,  alas!  all  the  romance, 
the  nobility,  and  the  qualities  to  be  admired  in 
this  race,  have  curiously  disappeared  with  the 
coming  ot  the  white  man;  and  here  viewing  the 
degraded  condition  of  the  remnant  of  a  once 
powerful  people,  the  traveler  may  better  appre- 
ciate the  vivid  picture  of  their  past  and  coming 
condition  drawn  by  Longfellow: — 
"  How  canst  thou  walk  in  these  streets,  who 

hast  had  the  green  turf  of  the  prairies  ? 
How  canst  thou  breathe  in  this  air,  who  hast 

breathed  the  sweet  air  of  the  mountains  ? 
Ah!  'tis  vain  that  with  lordly  looks  of  disdain 

thou  dost  challenge 
Looks  of  dislike  in  return,  and  question  these 

walls  and  these  pavements, 
Claiming  the  soil  for  thy  hunting  grounds, 

while  down-trodden  millions 
Starve  in  the  garrets  of  Europe,  and  cry  from 

its  caverns  that  they,  too, 
Have  been  created  heirs  of  the  earth,  and  claim 

its  division ! 
Back,  thtiu,  back  to  thy  woods  in  the  regions 

west  of  the  Wabash  ! 
There  as  a  monarch  thou  reignest.     Li  autumn 

the  leaves  of  the  maple 
Pave  the  floors  of  thy  palace-halls  with  gold, 

and  in  summer 
Pine  trees  waft  through  its  chambers  the  odor- 
ous breath  of  its  branches. 
Hark !  what  murmurs  arise  from  the  heart  of 

those  mountainous  deserts  ? 
Is  it  the  cry  of  the  Foxes  and  Crows,  or  the 

mighty  "Behemoth, 
Who,  unharmed,  or  his  tusks  once  caught  the 

bolts  of  the  thunder. 
And  now  lurks  in  his  lair  to  destroy  the  race  of 

the  red  man  ? 
Far  more  fatal  to  thee  and  thy  race  than  the 

Crows  and  the  Foxes, 
Far  more  fatal  to  thee  and  thy  race  than  the 

tread  of  Behemoth, 
Lo!  the  big  thunder-canoe  that  steadily  breasts 

the  Missouri's 
Merciless  current !    And  yonder  afar  on  the 

prairies,  the  camp  Area 
Gl  am  through  the  night;  and  the  cloud  of 

dust  in  the  gray  of  day-break 
Marks  not  the  buffalo's  track,  nor  theMandan's 

dexterous  horse-race: 
It  is  a  caravan,  whitening  the  desert  where 

.dwell  the  Comanches  ! 
Hal  how  the  breath  of  these  Saxons  and  Celts, 

like  the  blast  of  the  east-wind, 
Drifts  evermore  to  the  west  the  scanty  smokes 

of  thy  wigwams  ! " 
Mineral— -37  miles — is  the  only  eating  sta- 
tion on  the  road.     As  usual  on  the  U.  P.  ard 
C.  P.  the  charge  for  a  meal  is  $1.00.     Mineral 
derives  its  name  from  a  famous  pocket  mine  on 


the  east,  out  of  which  several  million  dollars 
were  taken  when  the  owners  were  willing  to 
sell  to  an  English  company,  who  have  been  idle 
most  of  the  time  since  purchasing. 

Deep  Wells— 42.5  miles — was  named  from 
a  well  dug  to  supply  teams  with  water.  A  team 
usually  consisted  of  eighteen  mules,  and  the 
charge  for  water  was  $1.00. 

Alpha  IB  a  small  station  with  kilns  of  char- 
coal. After  leaving  Alpha  the  road  crosses 
Willow  Creek  and  continues  to  Pine  Station, 
another  unimportant  place,  to 

Cedar,  a  name  common  for  the  trees  around 
it.  The  country  is  rough,  the  road  crooked, 
and  the  grades  heavy  to 

Summit,  the  dividing  ridge  between  Pine 
and  Diamond  Valleys.  The  road  follows  Dia- 
mond Valley,  and  makes  a  great  horseshoe 
curve  of  peculiar  interest  to  the  tourist,  to 

Garden  Pass  and  Diamoio),  tmimportant 
stations,  to 

£ureku,  a  town  with  a  population  of  6,000, 
great  enterprise,  public  spirit  and  prosperity. 
The  activity  in  mining  industry  is  apparent 
from  sixteen  furnaces,  with  a  capacity  of  from 
fifty  to  eighty  tons  of  ore  each,  daily,  and  with 
seven  smelting  works.  The  principal  hotels 
are  the  Jackson  and  the  Parker.  There  are  two 
daily  papers — the  Republican  and  the  Sentinel. 
The  various  smelting  and  refining  works  are 
accommodated  by  the  "  Ruby  HiU  "  Railroad— 
six  miles  in  all — connected  with  the  Eureka  and 
Palisade  Boad.  Eureka  is  the  base  of  supplies 
for  Hamilton— 40  mUes — and  all  the  White  Pine 
country;  Austin,  80  miles;  Ward,  100  miles; 
Pioche,  190  miles;  Tybo,  100  miles,  and  Bel- 
mont, 100  miles.  Stages  connect  all  these 
points  with  Eureka. 

Leaving  Palisade,  the  traveler  will  notice  the 
railroad  bridge,  a  short  distance  out,  on  which  the 
narrow  gauge  crosses  the  river  on  its  way  south 
as  it  enters  Pine  Valley.  The  channel  of  the  river 
has  been  turned  from  its  bed  by  a  heavy  embank- 
ment, a  work  rendered  necessary  to  avoid  a  short 
curve,  and  on  we  go  over  a  very  crooked  piece  of 
road  for  nearly  six  muv!s,when  we  cross  the  river, 
and  the  valley  again  opens.  We  have  now  passed 
through  the  Twelve  MUe  Cancn,  and  arrive  at 

Cluro — a  way-station,  516  miles  from  San 
Francisco,  with  an  elevation  of  4,786  feet. 
Trains  do  not  stop  unless  signaled.  The  valley 
becomes  wider,  the  hills  more  sloping  and  less 
high  as  they  border  the  valley,  but  away  to  the 
left  are  the  higher  peaks  of  the  Cortez  Moun- 
tains. We  now  enter  an  open  basin,  and  on  the 
right  we  see  the  old  emigrant  road  making  up 
the  hill  from  Gravelly  Ford.  One  branch  of 
this  road,  leading  to  the  same  lord,  we  als3 
cross,  but  the  old  roadway,  plainly  visible  from 
the  cars,  up  the  hill  on  the  north  side  of  the  river, 
nnrks  the  locality  of  the  ford  itself.  The  river 
hero  spreads  over  a  wide  gravelly  bed,  and  is 


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201 


always  shallow  so  that  it  is  easily  crossed.  The 
emigrants,  in  the  days  of  ox  and  mule  trains, 
took  advantage  of  this  crossing  to  send  letters, 
either  one  way  or  the  other,  by  outward  bound  or 
returning  trains.  They  would  split  a  willow 
sprout  by  the  side  of  the  road  and  put  their  let- 
ters in  it,  which  would  be  taken  out  by  some  one 
in  the  first  train  and  carried  to  the  nearest  post- 
ofidce  on  the  route. 

In  1858,  it  is  said,  that  an  Indian  massacre 
took  place  here,  in  which  18  emigrants  were 
killed ;  and  other  skirmishes  with  the  gentle 
red  men,  were  frequently  in  order.  The  old  emi- 
grant road  is  fairly  lined  with  the  graves  of  emi- 
grants, who  perished  on  their  way  to  the  land  of 


finally  come  to  believe  it  themselves ;  and  this 
may  account  tor  the  many  wonderful  stories  that 
have  been  palmed  off  on  some  book-makers,  and 
by  them,  in  turn,  hashed  up  for  the  traveling 
public.  Travelers  can  always  hear  all  they 
choose,  but  it  is  well  to  be  a  little  cautious  about 
believing  all  they  hear. 

The  Maiden's  Qrave.— There  is  hardly  an 
old  resident  on  this  coast,  but  who  has  some  in- 
cident to  relate  in  reference  to  Gravelly  Ford.  It 
was  not  only  an  excellent  crossing  place,  but  it 
was  also  a  fine  camping  place,  where  both  man 
and  beast  could  recruit  after  the  weary  days  on 
the  dreary  plains.  There  were  wide  bottom- 
lands that  offered  excellent  grazing  for  stock, 


ENTEUINO   IIUMBOLUr  CANON. 


gold,  or  in  returning  from  the  same.  There  are, 
also,  many  of  the  Shoshoues  and  Piutes  now 
living,  who  have  been  made  cripples  in  these 
battles  and  skirmishes  with  the  emigrants. 
They  will  talk  about  them  with  their  acquaint- 
ances, and  say  "  heap  of  white  men  killed 
there,"  but  can  seldom  be  induced  to  say  how 
many  Indians  were  slain  in  the  same  conflict. 
Indeed,  parties  representing  each  side  of  the 
contending  forces  have  become  well  acquainted, 
and  now  frequently  meet  each  other  on  friendly 
terms.  There  is  a  disposition,  also,  among  these 
old  plainsmen  "  to  spin  yarns,"  equal  to  any  old 
navigator  that  ever  lived,  and  one  has  to  be  ex- 
tremely cautious  as  to  what  he  believes.  These 
old  story-tellers  are  like  old  Jim  Bridger — they 
will  tell  a  lie  so  often  and  so  earnestly,  that  they 


and  the  small  brush  along  the  banks  of  the 
stream  gave  excellent  shade  and  firewood.  On 
a  low  ix)int  of  land  that  juts  out  toward  the 
river  on  the  south  side  of  the  track,  and  just  be- 
low this  ford,  is  the  Maiden's  Grave.  Tradition 
has  it  that  she  was  one  of  a  party  of  emigrants 
from  Missouri,  and  that,  at  this  ford,  while  they 
were  in  camp,  she  sickenef^  and  died.  Her  lov- 
ing friends  laid  her  away  to  rest  in  a  grave  on 
this  point  of  laud,  in  plain  sight  of  the  ford  acd 
of  the  valley  for  miles  in  either  direction.  But 
while  her  remains  wei-e  crumbling  into  dust,  and 
siie,  too,  was  fading  from  the  memory  of  all,  per- 
haps, but  her  immediate  relatives,  the  railroad 
builders  came  along,  and  found  the  low  mound, 
and  the  decayed  head-board  which  marked  her 
resting-place.     With  that  admiration  of,  and  de- 


.'  'i) 


'. 


!     .  nil, 

■;■'    V'h' 


202 


votion  to  woman,  which  characteriz.3s  American 
citizens  of  even  humble  origin,  they  made  a  new 
grave  and  surrounded  it  with  an  enclosure — a 
picket  fence,  painted  white — and  by  the  side  of 
it  erected  a  crass,  thfl  emblem  of  the  Christian's 
faith,  which  bears  on  one  side,  this  legend — "  The 
Maiden's  Grave  " — and  on  the  other,  her  name, 
"  Lucinda  Duncan."  All  honor  to  the  men  whose 
respect  for  the  true  woman  led  them  to  the  ^er- 
formanceof  this  praiseworthy  act — an  act  which 
would  have  been  performed  by  no  race  under  the 
heavens,  but  ours :  and  not  by  them,  indeed,  to 
the  remains,  under  similar  circumstances,  of  a 
representative  of  the  sterner  sex.  The  location 
C'f  this  grave  is  near  Beowawe,  and  the  point  is 
now  used  as  a  burial  ground  by  the  people  living 
in  the  vicinity.     Passing  the  point  where  the 

?:rave  is   located,  an   extended  valley  comes  in 
rom  the  lett,  south  of  which  extends  the  Cor- 
tez  Range  of  Mountains.     Wf  now  arrive  at 

Beowawe- — 507  miles  irom  San  Fran- 
cisco, with  an  elevation  of  4,695  feet.  It 
has  a  hotel,  a  few  dwellings,  and  is  the 
station  where  the  b-isiness  of  the  Cortez 
Mining  District  is  transactet..  There  is  a 
beautiful  signification  attached  to  the  name  of 
this  station,  which  Will  be  more  fully  realized 
after  the  station  is  passed,  than  before.  It 
means  "  gate,"  or  "  the  gate,"  and  as  you  look 
back  from  below,  the  conformation  of  the  hills 
on  either  side  of  the  valley  is  such,  that  the  sta- 
tion seems  to  stand  in  an  open  gateway,  up  the 
Humboldt  Valley  to  the  canon  beyond.  The 
valley  is  occasional!^  dotted  with  farm-houses, 
or  ranches,  and  besides  stock  raising,  which  is 
one  of  the  principal  features  of  this  part  of  the 
country,  there  is  considerable  done  in  the  way  of 
agriculture,  barley  being  the  chief  crop — yield- 
ing immensely  when  the  land  is  prop)erly  irri- 
gated and  the  crops  taken  care  of.  At  Beowawe 
an  immense  stretch  of  valley  land  can  be  seen 
away  to  the  right,  with  a  range  of  mountains, 
which  seems  to  be  an  extension  of  the  Reese 
River  Range,  north  of  the  Humboldt,  west  of  it. 
As  the  river  bends  northward  to  meet  these  val- 
leys, it  receives  the  waters  of  Boulder  and  Rock 
Creeks,  which  come  in  from  the  north  and  north- 
east. These  creeks  open  up  a  vast  country, 
which  is  well  occupied  by  ranches  and  stock- 
men. Leaving  Beowawe,  we  cross  a  large  valley 
and  sage  brush  plain — the  valley  coming  in  from 
the  south.  A  few  miles  out,  we  notice,  if  the 
weather  is  at  jvll  cool,  steam  rising  from  the  side 
of  the  mountain,  while  colored  streaks,  caused 
by  the  sediment  of  the  springs,  can  clearly  be 
Been  from  the  passing  tram.  This  steam  comes 
from  the  Hot  Springs  on  the  mountain  side,  and 
the  sediment  marks  their  locality.  The  water 
in  some  of  these  springs  is  boiling  hot,  and  par- 
takes strongly  of  sulphur.  The  springs  are 
also  impregnated  with  iron.  A  creek  of  al- 
kali water  comes  down  from  the  springs,  and 


we  cross  it  on  the  flat  alluded  to,  and  the  w>dA 
valley  off  to  the  right  is  still  better  seen  as  we 
approach  and  pa'is 

Shotthonef- -oiQ  miles  from  San  Francisco', 
elevation,  4,6i36  feet.  It  is  simply  a  side  track 
station.  Rock  Creek,  before  spoken  of,  comes 
into  the  Humboldt  nearly  opposite  this  place, 
and  the  broad  valley  continues,  on  the  right  of 
the  road.  The  station  is  called  Shoshone  Point 
by  the  people  in  the  valley,  because  a  mountain, 
or  high  ridge,  pushes  out  into  the  valley,  like  a 
promontory.  This  is  one  of  the  landmarks  on 
the  dividing  line  between  the  Shoshone  and 
Piute  tribes  of  Indians ;  but  the  line  we  con- 
sider purely  imaginary,  from  the  fact  that  Indi- 
ans, as  a  general  thing,  go  where  they  please  in 
this  country,  lines  or  no  lines.  The  wide  basin 
spoken  of  continues  below  and  off  to  the  right 
of  this  p.ation,  and,  as  we  pass  on,  a  long  line  of 
board  fence  will  be  noticed  stretching,  from  a 
{x)int  high  up  on  the  mountain,  across  the  track 
and  valley  toward  the  Humboldt  River,  on  the 
right.  This  is  the  eastern  line  of  Dunphy  &  Hil- 
dreth's  stock  ranche.  In  seven  miles  we  shall 
pass  the  western  line,  or  fence.  We  havfl  be- 
lore  spoken  of  Iliif,  as  the  cattle  king  of  the 
plains,  and,  while  this  is  true  east  of  the  Black 
Hills  of  Wyoming,  he  will  have  to  yield  the 
crown  to  some  of  the  cattle  kings  of  the  Pacific 
Coast.  This  firm  has  20  miles  of  fencing  in 
these  two  lines:  They  have  over  20  thousand 
acres  fenced  in.  Their  fences,  made  of  redwood 
osts  and  Oregon  pine  boards,  cost  them  a  little 
over  8900  per  mile.  They  have,  altogether, 
about  40,000  head  of  cattle,  mainly  in  two 
herds — one  here  and  the  other  iiortn,  on  the 
Snake  River.  They  have  purchased  of  the  State, 
government  and  Central  Pacific  Railroad  and 
now  own  about  30,000  acres  of  land.  Most  of 
their  cattle  are  shipped  to,  and  find  a  market  in 
San  Francisco. 

The  immense  range  fenced  in  at  this  point  . 
occupied  by  a  select  herd  of  graded  stock,  and 
some  of  the  best  blooded  animals  in  the  country 
are  annually  purchased  to  improve  the  grades. 
The  Humboldt  Valley  and  its  tributaries  con- 
stitute the  best  part  of  the  State  for  stock 
ranges.  The  snow  seldom  falls  very  deep,  does 
not  stay  lon(|^,  and  the  ^rass  makes  its  appear- 
ance early  in  the  spnng.  The  purchase  of 
large  tracts  of  land  by  these  foresighted  cattle- 
men will  give  them  a'monopoly  of  the  business 
in  the  future. 

Ai'genta — 486  mil:.s  from  San  Francisco; 
elevation,  4,548  feet.  It  is  simply  a  side  track 
station,  where  considerable  hay  is  shipped. 
This  station  is  immediately  surrounded  by  alkali 
flats,  near  the  base  of  the  Reese  Biver  Moun- 
tains. The  road  continues  for  a  few  miles 
along  the  base  of  these  mountains,  when  sud- 
denly a  broad  valley  opens  out  on  the  left. 
It  is  the  valley  of  Bieese  Biver.    We  turn  f-o 


'  t : ' 


li 


203 


the  ri^bt,  cross  the  valley  and  the  river — all 
there  is  left  of  it — and  arrive  at 

Battle  Mountain — 474  miles  from  San 
Fraaoisco,  with  an  elevation  of  4,511  feet — the 
junction  of  the  Nevada  Central  Bailway,  has  a 
population  of  700.  It  is  located  at  the  junction 
of  the  Beese  River  and  Humboldt  Valleys. 
The  mountain  which  gives  it  its  name  is  about 
throe  miles  south  of  the  station,  where  there 
are  magnificent  springs  from  which  water  is 
conducted  to  the  town,  supplying  the  railroad 
and  inhabitants  with  water.  In  the  midst  of 
a  surrounding  desert  he  will  observe  the  flow- 
ing fountain  and  patches  of  green  grass  which 
wul  here  greet  his  eyes,  together  with  the  evi- 
dent tasie  and  care  which  is  manifested  about 
everything  connected  with  the  house. 

The  town  has  several  quite  extensive  stores, 
a  public  hall,  an  excellent  school-house,  two 
large  freight  depots,  and  the  "Capital,"  a  first- 
class  hotel,  the  table  being  bountifully  supplied 
with  all  the  delicacies  of  the  season;  besides 
the  machine  shops  of  the  Nevada  Central  Bail- 
way.  It  has  an  extensive  and  rapidly  increasing 
trade  with  the  surrounding  country,  and  newly 
developed  mining  districts  in  its  neighborhood. 
It  is  the  business  center  of  a  large  number  of 
stockmen,  and  the  trading  point  for  a  large 
number  of  mining  districts- -districts  consid- 
erably scattered  over  quite  a  large  part  of  the 
State.  The  town  is  located  in  Lander  County, 
but  is  not  the  county-seat.  Austin,  ninety 
milestaway,  claims  that  honor. 

The  following  mining  districts,  south  of  the 
railroad,  are  more  or  less  tributary  to  Battle 
Mountain;  -commencing  on  the  east  side  of  the 
Beese  River  Bange,  first  is  the  Lewis  Mining 
District,  sixteen  miles  distant  from  Battle 
Mountain.  It  is  located  on  the  northern  ex- 
trenfity  '•f  the  range.  At  the  southern  ex- 
tremity of  this  range  is  the  Austin  District. 
The  mountain  range  between  these  two  districts 
is  said  to  contain  mines,  but  it  has  not  been 
thoroughly  prospected.  The  Beese  Biver  Val- 
ley is  about  160  miles  long,  traversed  its  entire 
length  by  the  river  of  the  same  name,  though 
it  cannot  be  called  much  of  a  river  where  the 
railroad  crosses  it,  near  Battle  Mountain.  The 
upper  portion  of  the  valley,  about  fifty  miles  in 
length,  is  a  very  fine  agricultural  district,  is 
quite  well  settled,  and  is  tributary  to  Austin. 
The  valley  is  also  settled  in  places  where  moun- 
tain streams  come  into  it,  between  Battle 
Mountain  and  Austin. 

On  the  west  side  of  the  Beese  Biver  Valley, 
and  immediately  south  of  Battle  Mountain,  are 
the  following  districts:  Battle  Mountain  Dis- 
trict, seven  miles  distant;  Galena  District,  six- 
teen miles;  Copper  Canon,  eighteen  miles,  and 
Jersey,  fifty-five  miles.  The  copper  mines  are 
owned  by  an  English  company.  The  Jersey 
District  produces  smelting  ore.    North  of  Bat- 


tle Mountain  are  the  Cornucopia  and  Tuscorora 
Districts. 

Battle  Mountain — not  north  of  the  Humboldt 
Biver,  but  about  three  miles  south  of  the  sta- 
tion— is  reported  to  have  baen  the  scene  of  a 
conflict  between  a  party  of  emigrants  camped 
near  the  springs  heretofore  spoken  of,and  aband 
of  redskins  who  had  on  innate  hankering  after 
the  stock  of  the  said  party  of  emigrants.  The 
losses  of  this  battle  are  s.  i  to  have  been  quite 
severe  on  both  sides,  considering  the  numbers 
engaged.  It  is  gerfsrally  conceded,  however, 
that  the  redskins  got  the  worst  ol  it,  though 
they  say,  "  A  heap  white  men  killed  there." 

Battle  Mountain  is  supplied  with  water  from 
artesian  wells,  of  which  there  are  more  than  a 
dozen  from  100  to  280  feet  in  depth.  The  flow 
is  good,  one  discharging  through  an  inch  and 
a  half  pipe  seven  feet  above  the  surface  of  the 
ground, 

There  are  daily  stages  to  Tuscarora — 68  miles 
—fare,  810.00;  to  Cornucopia,  80  miles,  $12.00; 
Columbia,  130  miles,  $20.00,  and  Mountain 
City,  100  miles,  $15.00. 

NEVAVA   CEXTRATj  BAILWAT. 

Joseph  CoIiLett,      -     -     President  and  Snpt. 

F.  W.  Dunn, Assistant  Supt. 

C.  W.  HiNCHOiiiFFE,  -  Sec.  &G.F.&P.^ 
B.  Amebmax,    --     --..--    Cashier. 

Leaving  Battle  Mountain  the  road  passes  up 
through  the  Beese  Biver  Valley  in  fuU  view  of 
Lewis  and  Galena,  respectively  situated  in  the 
mountain  ranges  lying  to  the  east  and  west  of 
the  track.  At  Galena  Station,  eleven  miles 
south  of  Battle  Mountain,  connections  are 
made  with  the  Battle  Mountain  and  Lewis 
Bailway,  a  narrow-gauge  railway  running  up 
into  the  mountains  to  Lewis,  eight  mUes  dis- 
tant. The  celebrated  Star  Grove  mines  ore 
situated  up  a  beautiful  canon,  three  miles  above 
Lewis.   The  Battle  Creek  mine  lies  to  the  south. 

Lewis  is  a  thriving  and  prosperous  town, 
having  a  rapidly  growing  population,  two  good 
hotels,  numerous  stores  and  two  20-stamp 
mills;  a  new  40-stamp  mill  is  being  con- 
structed, and  when  completed  the  camp  will  be 
able  to  turn  out  twenty  bars  of  bullion  per 
day. 

Leaving  Galena  Station  we  continue  up  the 
valley,  passing  Ansonia,  twenty-five  miles  dis- 
tant,' near  which  station  are  about  sixty  hot 
springs,  covering  half  a  section  of  land — the 
largest  is  sixty  feet  long,  thirty  wide,  and  rises 
and  falls  from  three  to  five  feet;  the  medicinal 
qualities  are  surpassed  by  none  in  the  State — 
until  we  reach  Bbidqes,  eight  miles  south  of 
Ansonia,  the  regular  eating  station  for  all 
trains.  Leavinf^  Bridges  we  enter  the  pictur- 
esque Beese  Biver  Canon,  twenty  miles  in 
length.  The  valleys  in  the  canon  are  cultivated 
and  productive  of  rich  crops  of  hay  and  grain. 


■  •\:  i.; 


■  4" 


t 


204 


FMM  ^sMClWtC  TOtmiST. 


Tlw  Qredt  Plains  and  Desert 


BY  JOAQUIN   MILLER. 


Go  ye  and  look  upon  that  land, 
That  far,  vast  land  that  few  behold. 
And  none  beholding,  understand ; 
That  old,  old  land,  which  men  call  new, 
That  land  as  old  as  time  is  old : 

Gro  journey  with  the  seasons  through 
Its  wastes,  and  learn  how  limitless, 
How  shoreless  lie  the  distances. 
Before  you  come  to  question  this, 
Or  dare  to  dream  what  grandeur  is. 

The  solemn  silence  of  that  plain. 
Where  unmanned  tempests  ride  and  reign. 
It  awes  and  it  possesses  you, 
'Tis,  oh,  so  eloquent. 

The  blue 
And  bended  skies  seem  built  for  it. 
With  rounded  roof  all  fashioned  fit, 
And  frescoed  clouds,  quaint-wrough*  and  true : 
While  all  else  seems  so  far,  so  vain, 
An  idle  tale  but  illy  told. 
Before  this  land  so  lone  and  old. 

Lo  I  here  you  learn  how  more  than  fit, 
And  dignified  is  silence,  when 
You  hear  the  petty  jeers  of  men, 
Who  point,  i»nd  show  their  pointless  wit. 
The  vastness  of  that  voiceless  plain, 
Its  awful  solitudes  remain. 
Thenceforth  for  aye  a  part  of  you, 


And  you  are  of  the  favored  few. 
For  you  have  learned  your  littleness. 

Some  silent  red  men  cross  your  track ; 
Some  sun-tann'd  trappers  come  and  go; 
Some  rolling  seas  of  buffalo 
Break  thunder-like  and  far  away, 
Against  the  foot  hills,  breaking  back, 
Like  breakers  of  some  troubled  bay ; 
But  not  a  voice  the  long,  lone  day. 

Some  white  tail'd  antelope  flow  by, 
So  airy-like  ;  some  foxes  shy, 
And  shadow-like  shoot  to  and  fro, 
Like  weaver's  shuttles  as  you  pass — ; 
And  now  and  then  from  out  the  grass, 
You  hear  some  lone  bird  chick,  and  oah, 
A  sharp  keen  call  for  her  lost  brood. 
That  only  make  the  solitude, 
That  mantles  like  some  sombre  pall, 
Seem  deeper  still,  and  that  is  all. 

A  wide  domain  of  mysteries, 
And  signs  that  men  misunderstand  I 
A  land  of  space  and  dreams  :  a  land 
Of  sea,  salt  lakes  and  dried  up  seas  I 
A  land  of  caves  and  caravans. 
And  lonely  wells  and  pools. 

A  land 
That  hath  its  purposes  and  plans, 
That  seem  so  like  dead  Palestine, 
Save  that  its  wastes  have  no  confine, 
Till  pushed  against  the  levell'd  skies. 


Fmm  ^siciFic  FOimiST. 


205 


On  either  side  and  above  tlio  railroad  rise  up 
precipitous  mountain  ranges,  -whose  untold 
mineral  wealth  is  yet  to  bo  brought  to  the  sur- 
foce  and  developed.  Emerging  from  the  canon 
we  stop  at  HxiiLSVAiiE,  twenty-three  miles  south 
of  Bridges,  at  which  station  is  a  large  boarding- 
house,  ownel  by  the  compainr,  and  used  for 
the  accommodation  of  the  trackmen  and  labor- 
ers. Between  Hallsvale  and  Shveb  Creek— 
five  miles — are  four  wood  stations,  from  which 
during  the  past  season  18,000  cords  of  wood 
have  been  shipped  to  the  mines  and  mills  at 
Austin  and  Lewis.  From  Silver  Creek  we 
traverse  the  banks  of  the  Eeese  Eiver,  pass- 
ing several  feri,ile  ranches  until  we  reach 
Ledue,  eighty-seven  miles  from  Battle  Moun- 
tam.  Ledlie  is  the  distributing  station  for 
freight  destined  to  all  points  in  central  and 
southern  Nevada,  from  where,  in  connection 
witib  the  railroad,  are  run  the  fast  freight  teams 
of  Wrayner's  line,  transporting  freight  to  lone, 
GrantsvUle,  Ellsworth,  Gold  Mountain,  Silver 
Peak,  Behn'^nt  Jeflferson,  Kingston  and  minor 
camps.  To  ace  ')mmodate  this  traffic,  250  mules 
and  60  wagons  are  employed. 

Leaving  Ledlie  the  raOroari  ascends  the  foot- 
hills and  reaches  Austin,  six  and  a  half  miles 
distant,  with  an  elevation  of  6,021  feet.  Aus- 
tin is  a  citjr  Df  3,000  inhabitants,  of  con- 
siderable spirit  and  culture.  It  is  the  county- 
seat  of  Lander  County,  has  a  fine  court-house, 
three  churches,  a  comfortable  theatre,  a  large 
brick  school-building,  a  banking  hou,se,  numer- 
ous large  business  blocks,  a  good  hotel  and 
some  magnificent  residences.  A  street  rail- 
way connects  at  the  depot,  transporting  both 
passengers  and  freight  from  one  of  the  city 
to  the  other.  At  the  upper  end  of  the 
city  are  the  mines  and  mills  of  the  Manhattan 
Silver  Mining  Company,  shipments  averaging 
ten  bars  of  bullion  per  day,  or  §300,000  per 
month.  Daily  stages,  carrying  passengers, 
mail  and  express,  leave  Austin  for  Kingston, 
Jefferson,  Belmont,  lone,  Grantsville,  Clover- 
dale  and  Candelaria,  to  and  from  which  points 
the  Nevada  Central  Railway,  in  connection  with 
the  stages,  forms  as  peedy  and  pleasant  route. 

How  the  Phitett  Catch  Fink. — Nearly 
all  the  Indiana  seen  on  the  line  of  the  ro",d  be- 
tween Battle  Mountain  and  Reno,  are  Piutes. 
They  are  great  rabbit-hunters,  and  very  success- 
ful in  fishing.  They  make  hooks  from  rabbit 
bones  and  greasewood,  which  are  certainly  su- 
perior to  the  most  improved  article  made  by  the 
whites.  This  hook  is  in  the  shape  of  what 
might  be  called  the  letter  "  V  "  condensed ;  that 
is,  the  prongs  do  not  spread  very  far.  A  line, 
made  of  the  sinews  of  animals,  or  the  bark  of  a 
species  of  wild  hemp,  is  attached  to  this  hook  at 
the  angle,  and  baited  with  a  snail  or  fresh  water 
bloodsucker.  Several  of  these  hooks  are  tied  to 
a  heavier  line,  or  a  piece  of  light  rope,  one  above 


the  other,  so  far  that  they  will  not  become  tan- 
gled or  snarled.  A  stone-  is  then  tied  to  the  end 
of  the  heavy  line,  and  it  is  cast  into  the  stream. 
The  fish  take  the  bait  readily,  but  Mr.  Indian 
does  not  "  pull  up  "  when  he  feels  one  fish  on  the 
line.  He  waits  until  the  indications  are  that 
several  fish  are  there — one  on  each  hook — and 
then  he  pulls  out  the  heavy  line,  with  fish  and  all. 
It  seems  that  the  hooks  are  so  made  that  they 
can  be  swallowed  easily  enough  with  the  bait,  but 
as  soon  as  the  fish  begins  to  stniggle,  the  string 
acts  on  both  prongs  of  the  hook,  pulling  it 
straight,  the  ends  of  the  letter  "  V "  hook,  of 
course,  piercing  its  throat.  It  can  neither  swal- 
low it,  nor  cast  it  forth  from  its  mouth.  The 
more  it  pulls  and  struggles,  the  more  straight- 
ened the  hook  becomes.  Besides  the  superiority 
of  this  hook,  one  fish  being  caught,  others  are 
naturally  draM'u  around  it,  and  seize  the  tempt- 
ing bait  upon  the  fatal  hook.  In  this  way  an  In- 
dian will  catch  a  dozen  or  so  fish,  while  a  white 
man,  with  his  fancy  rod  and  "  flies "  and 
"  spoons,"  and  other  inventions  to  lure  the  finny 
tribes  and  tempt  them  to  take  a  bait,  will  eaten 
not  one. 

Leaving  Battle  Mountain  we  have  a  straight 
track  for  about  20  wiles,  across  a  sage  brush 
plain,  the  river  and  a  narrow  strip  of  bottom- 
lands, on  our  right. 

Piute, — 469  miles,  from  San  Francisco,  with 
no  elevation  given,  and 

Coin, — 462  miles  from  San  Francisco,  are 
simply  side  track  stations  where  trains  meet  and 
pass,  but  of  no  importance  to  the  traveler.  There 
was  no  Indian  battle  fought  near  Piute,  nor  does 
the  Reese  River  sink  into  the  valley  here.  "What 
battle  there  was,  was  fought,  as  before  stated, 
about  three  miles  south  of  Battle  Mountain  Sta- 
tion, and  what  the  sands  in  the  valley  do  not  ab- 
sorb of  the  waters  of  Reese  River,  may  be  seen — 
a  little  alkali  stream — flowing  across  the  railroad 
track,  east  of  Battle  Mountain,  to  effect  a  junc- 
tion with  the  Humboldt  River. 

Stone  Honse, — 455  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, with  an  elevation  of  4,422  feet.  This  was 
not  an  old  trading  post,  but  a  station  in  former 
times  of  the  Overland  Stage  Company,  and  the 
house,  built  of  stone  near  some  very  fine  springs, 
was  one  of  the  eating-houses  on  their  line,  where 
travelers  could  relish  square  meals  of  bacon  and 
coffee  with  safety.  There  is  no  particular  ravine 
near  the  old  ruins  which  the  traveler  would 
notice  as  an  impregnable  fortress.  Quite  a 
number  of  skirmishes  are  reported  to  have  taken 
place  near  this  station  ^owever,  and  the  graves 
yet  distinguished  in  its  vicinity  tell  of  the  num- 
oer  who  were  killed  near  this  place,  or  died  here 
o.i  their  journey  to  the  golden  shores  of  the 
Pacific.  Stone  House  Mountain,  as  it  is  now 
called,  rears  its  head  just  back  of  the  crumbling 
ruins,  and  from  its  summit  a  most  extensive  and 
beautiful  view  of  the  neighboring  valleys  and 


p 

II; 

4 

■' 

\ 

■  ,i 

'I 

^-  '■ 

I'-l  "  ' 


■  ;     t" 


MN 


surrounding  country  can  be  obtained.  On  the 
western  slope  of  this  mountain,  and  about 
seven  miles  from  the  station,  are  some  hot 
springs  similar  to  others  found  in  the  Great 
Basin.  During  the  passage  of  the  Humboldt 
Valley  we  or«8s  several  dry  valleys,  between 
ranges  of  moimtaius  that  seem  to  be  cut  in 
twam  by  the  river.  These  valleys  are  mostly 
covered  with  sand  and  sagebrush;  occasionally 
they  have  streams  flowing  down  from  the  moun- 
tains which  soon  sink  in  the  sands.  There  is  a 
wide  valley  ot  this  description  north  of  the 
track  as  we  approach 

Iron  Point — 442  mUes  from  San  Francisco; 
elevation,  4,375  feet.  This  station  is  near  the 
point  of  a  low  ridge,  witn  barren  sides  and 
rooky  summit;  the  xocks  a  little  reddish,  indi- 
cating the  proximity  of  iron.  It  is  a  shipping 
point  for  cattle,  and  has  extensive  stock  yards, 
though  there  are  no  other  accommodations  near 
by.  This  ridge  was  formerly  considered  the 
boundary  line  between  the  Shoshones  and 
Piutes,  and  a  trespass  by  either  party  has  been 
the  cause  o  f  many  an  Indian  war.  The  wasting 
away  of  these  tribes,  however,  renders  the  line 
simply  imaginary,  and  the  rights  of  either 
party  to  exclusive  privileges  on  either  side  are 
no  longer  regarded.  The  valley  now  narrows, 
and  we  pass  through  a  sort  of  a  canon,  with  high 
blu£fs  on  both  sides  of  the  road.  We  wind  round 
numerous  curves,  and  afte'r  the  canon  is  jpassed, 
we  shall  see  the  remains  of  an  old  irrigating 
ditch  that  was  started  here  by  a  French  com- 
pany to  take  water  from  the  Humboldt  and 
carry  it  down  the  valley  quite  a  distance  for 
irrigating  and  mill  purposes.  A  great  amount 
of  labor  and  money  was  expended  upon  this 
enterprise,  but  it  was  finally  abandoned. 
Emerging  from  a  short  canon,  the  valley  again 
begins  to  widen.  This  pass  was  called  Emigrant 
Canon  in  the  days  of  wagon  travel. 

OolcondQ, — 431  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
with  an  elevation  of  4,385  feet.  The  little 
town  here  has  one  or  two  stores,  a  hotel,  several 
adobe  houses,  and  the  M-asl  railroad  conven- 
iences. Golconda  is  favorably  located,  as  re- 
gards two  or  three  important  mining  districts. 
It  is  also  the  location  of  some  eight  or  ten  hot 
mineral  springs,  which  are  passed  on  the  right 
side  of  the  track,  just  after  leaving  town.  These 
springs  vary  in  temperature  from  cool,  or  tepid 
water,  to  that  which  is  boiling  hot.  The 
swimming  bath — an  excavation  in  the  ground — 
is  supplied  with  tepid  water,  and  is  said  to  be 
very  exhilarating.  The  Boiling  Spring  is  util- 
ized by  the  farmers  in  the  valley  in  scalding 
their  swine.  The  water  is  said  to  be  hot  enough 
to  boil  an  egg  in  one  minute.  Here  clouds  of 
steam  can  be  seen  when  the  weather  is  cold, 
rising  from  the  hot  water  and  warm  soil  sur- 
rounding. One  of  the  springs  near  this  station 
is  also  a  curiosity,  and  should  be  visited  by 


tourists.  It  is  conical  in  shape,  like  an  inverted 
tea-cup,  four  or  five  feet  higL,  with  a  basin 
about  three  feet  in  diameter  on  the  top.  For- 
merly the  water  came  in  at  the  bottom  of  this 
basin  and  bubbled  over  the  rim;  but  a  few 
years  since  it  was  tapped  from  below,  and  the 
water  now  flows  out  at  the  side,  leaving  the 
basin  and  cone  as  it  was  formed  by  the  sedi- 
mentary incrustations  and  deposit.  The  water 
flowing  from  the  hot  spring  is  used  for  irrigat- 
ing purposes,  and  the  owners  of  the  spring 
have  a  monopoly  of  early  vegetable  "garden 
truck,"  raising  early  radishes,  lettuce,  onions, 
etc.,  before  their  season,  by  the  warmth  pro- 
duced from  the  hot  water. 

Sunday  excursion  trains  are  run  from  "Winne- 
mucca  to  accommodate  parties  who  desire  to 
enjoy  the  luxury  of  these  springs. 

Gold  Bun  Mining  District,  south  of  Golconda, 
is  tributary  to  the  place. 

Paradise  District,  of  gold  and  silver  mines,  is 
about  eighteen  miles  north  of  Golconda. 

Tu{«-— 420  miles  from  San  Francisco,  with 
an  elevation  of  4,313  feet.  It  is  simply  a 
side  track  of  no  importcsco  to  travelers,  and 
trains  seldom  stop.  Aftev  leaving  Golconda, 
we  look  toward  the  noith  and  see  the 
opening  of  Eden  Valley.  East  of  this  val- 
ley, and  to  our  right,  is  the  Soldier's 
Spring  Bange,  a  broken  range  of  moun- 
tains. Eden  Valley  extends  norm  to  the  Little 
Humboldt  River,  in  fact,  th  is  river  flows  throurii 
the  upper  portion  of  the  valley,  and  rises  in  the 
range  just  named,  and  flows  in  a  south-westerly 
direction  through  Paradise  Valley  and  unites 
with  the  Humboldt,  nearly  opposite,  north  of 
Tule.  Paradise  Valley  is  a  fine  agricultural 
basin,  thickly  settled,  about  30  miles  north. 
Paradise  Valley  is  the  name  of  the  post-office — 
a  semi-weekly  line  of  mail  stages  connecting  it 
with  Winnemucca,  the  county-seat  of  Humboldt 
County.  This  valley  is  shaped  like  a  horseshoe, 
and  produces  superior  crops  of  barley,  wheat, 
rye  and  all  kinos  of  vegetables.  It  seems  to 
have  a  depression  in  the  center,  and,  while  it  is 
nearly  all  cultivated,  the  best  crops  are  raised  on 
the  slopes  toward  the  mountains.  The  soil  is  a 
black,  gravelly  loam,  and  sage  brush  grows  on 
the  slopes  to  enormous  size.  Exreriments  in 
fruit  culture  have  been  tried,  but,  thus  far,  with 
indifferent  success.  Paradise  Valley  has  a  flour- 
ing-mill,  store  and  dwellings,  and  gives  every  in- 
dication of  thrift.  Its  name  indicates  the  high 
esteem  in  which  it  is  held  by  the  settlers.  It  is 
nearly  surrounded  by  mountains,  and  the  numer- 
ous streams  flowing  down  from  them,  afford  am- 
ple water  for  irrigation.  Most  of  these  streams 
sink  in  the  ground  before  they  reach  the  Little 
Humboldt.    Five  miles  beyond  Tule,  we  reach 

Winnemticcaf—\Q^  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco ;  elevation,  4,332  feet.  It  is  named  in 
honor  of  the  chief  of  the  Piute  tribe  of  Indians. 


i 


pie, 
am 
min 
Pac 
dep 

iUOt 

brio 
seve 
afo' 

ity 

and 

com 

part 

oni 


li^ 


WMM  F;9:€IFW  WQWEiBW. 


207 


I  inverted 
d  a  basin 
op.  For- 
m  of  this 
)ut  a  few 
',  and  the 
aving  the 
r  the  sedi- 
The  water 
or  irrigat- 
lie  spring 
)  "garden 
le,  onions, 
rmth  pro- 

im  "Winne- 
desixe  to 

Qolcocda, 

r  mines,  is 

ida. 

isco,  with 

simply   a 

elers,  and 

Qolconda, 

see  the 
;  this  val- 

Soldier's 
of  monn- 
the  Little 
nrs  through 
ses  in  the 
;h-we8terly 
md  unites 

north  of 
gricultural 
les  north, 
ost-office — 
meeting  it 
Humboldt 
horseshoe, 
ey,  wheat, 

seems  to 
while  it  is 
9  raised  on 
le  soil  is  a 

grows  on 
'iments  in 
s  far,  with 
iias  a  flour- 
is  every  in- 
3  the  high 
lers.  It  is 
the  numer- 
afford  am- 
!se  streams 
the  Little 
we  reach 
San  Fran- 
named  in 
)f  Indians. 


The  name  itself  means  "chief,"  and  is  given 
to  any  member  of  the  tribe  who  holds  that 
ofBce.  The  Piutes  are  divided  into  several  bands, 
each  under  a  chief  they  call  "Captain,  "thought 
here  to  be  derived  from  the  Spanish,  and  to 
mean  the  same  as  our  English  word,  "  captain. " 
Winnemucca  is  now  about  seventy-six  years  old, 
and  lives  on  the  Malheur  Reservation  m  Oregon 
— a  reservation  occupied  l)y  the  Piutes  and 
Bannocks.  He  is  very  much  respected — almost 
worshipped  by  his  dusky  followers. 

The  town  is  the   county-seat  of  Humboldt 
Goiuity,  and  has  a  populatibu  of  about  UOU  peo- 


wunrBMuocu,  trb  ifAvoixox  or  sbb  ■wmoB. 

pie,  among  whom  are  some  Indians,  and  quite 
a  number  of  Chinamen.  It  is  the  western  ter- 
minus of  the  Humboldt  Division  of  the  Central 
Pacific,  has  a  large  roundhouse,  two  large  freight 
depots  and  the  usual  offices,  etc.,  for  the  accom- 
i;)odation  of  the  railroad  business.  An  elegant, 
brick  court-house  has  been  erected,together  with 
several  stores,hotels,  shopB,  alargeflouring-mill, 
a  foundry,  a  10-stamp  quartz  mill,  with  a  capac- 
ity for  crushing  ten  tons  of  ore  every  21  hours, 
and  other  public  improvements  completed,  or  in 
contemplation.  The  town  is  divided  into  two 
parts — upper  and  lower;  the  latter  being  built 
on  the  bottom  land  near  the  river,  and  the  upper 


on  a  huge  sand-bank,  adjoining  the  railroad. 
Most  of  the  buildings  are  frame,  though  a  few 
are  built  of  brick  or  adobe,  which,  in  this 
western  country,  are  called  "  dobe  "  for  short. 

There  is  a  school-house  with  accommodations 
for  about  150  pupils — two  apartments,  and  no 
churches.  It  is  also  quite  a  shipping  point  for 
cattle  and  wool.  About  9,01)0  head  of  cattle 
were  shipped  to  the  San  Francisco  market  from 
this  place,  in  the  months  of  January  and  Feb- 
iTiary  of  the  present  year.  In  the  spring  of 
1875,  over  500,000  ll)s.  of  wool  were  shipped  to 
New  York  and  Boston  markets.  It  is  ^so  the 
shipping  point  to  Camp  McDermott,  near  the 
northern  tine  of  the  State;  to  Silver  City  and 
Boise  City,  Idaho;  and  to  Baker  and  Grant 
counties,  in  southeastern  Oregon.  The  stage 
lines  p.re  as  follows:  DaUy  stage  and  mail  line 
to  Silver  City  and  Boise  City,  Idaho — distance 
to  Silver  City,  210  miles,  extension  to  Boise,  65 
mUes  farther.  The  same  line  supplies  Camp 
McDermott,  85  miles  distant.  •  Semi-weekly 
line,  Mond^s  and  Fridays,  to  Paradise  Valley, 
45  miles.  There  was  also  an  immense  freight- 
ing business  done  with  the  mining  districts  in 
the  vicinity,  and  with  Idaho  Territory.  Regu- 
lar freight  lines  are  on  the  road  between  uus 
place  and  Silver  City. 

The  following  mining  districts  are  tributanr 
to  Winnemucca  and  located  in  Humboldt 
Coun^,  beginning  north  of  the  railroad:  Wil- 
low Creek,  about  60  miles  distant;  Bartlett 
Creek,  gold  f«nd  silver,  •  100  miles  distant. 
Varyville  is  the  town  of  this  camp. 

Central  District,  in  Eugene  Mountain,  south- 
west of  the  town,  produces  silver  ore. 

South  of  the  railroad  there  is  Jersey  District 
and  town,  65  miles  distant.  The  business  of 
this  mining  camp  is  divided  between  Battle 
Mountain  and  this  place — both  claiming  it. 

Antimony  District  is  80  mUes  due  south  of 
Winnemucca.  Slabs  of  that  mineral,  weighing 
three  tons,  and  averaging  70  per  cent,  pure 
antimony,  can  be  obtained  in  this  district. 
Near  it  is  the  Humboldt  Salt  Marsh,  where 
salt,  95  per  cent,  pure,  can  be  shoveled  up  by 
the  wagon  load.  This  salt  deposit  is  very  ex- 
tensive, and  the  supply  seems  to  be  exhaustless. 
Underneath  the  surface  deposit,  rock  salt,  or 
salt  in  large  cokes  or  slabs,  is  taken  at  in  the 
driest  part  of  the  season,  by  the  ton. 

In  the  valley  leading  to  tue  above-named  dis- 
trict are  some  very  fme  hot  springs,  but  they 
are  so  common  here  as  to  be  no  curiosity. 
Kyle's,  35  miles  southwest,  and  Leach's,  8  miles 
from  Unionville,  the  old  county-seat,  and  Gol- 
conda,  16  miles,  to  which  Simday  excursions 
trains  i-un,  are  the  most  noted.  Twelve  miles 
out,  in  the  same  valley,  is  a  rich  agricultural 
district,  thickly  settled,  where  not  only  ^ain 
and  vegetables  nave  been  successfully  cultivat- 
ed, but  the  experiments  in  fruit  culture  have 


t 


'1, 


208 


rmJS  i^€iFi€  FOiTMSr* 


also  proved  sucoessfnl.  At  the  county  fair, 
held  in  this  city  'during  the  foil  of  1875,  flue 
specimens  of  apples,  peaches,  pears  and  plums 
were  exhibited  which  were  raised  in  this  volley. 
Aa  the  tourist  walks  the  platform  at  tlus 
place,  looking  across  the  river  to  the  right,  he 
will  see  Winnemucca  Moiintain,  but  a  short 
distance  away,  overlooking  the  town.  To  the 
left,  he  will  observe  the  peaks  of  the  Franklin 
or  Sonoma  lUnge.  To  the  east,  and  somewhat 
distant,  are  the  ragged  summits  of  the  Soldier's 
Spring  Bange,  while  a  little  to  the  southwest, 
but  apparentlv  in  front,  Eugene  Mountain  Lifts 
itself  up  as  a  landmark  to  gaide  the  traveler  on 
his  way.  This  mountain  will  be  passed  on  our 
left  as  we  continue  the  journey.  Winnemuc- 
ca has  one  newspaper — the  Dai/y  SitutrStaU. 


tribe,  to  their  honor  be  it  said,  licentioosneM 
among  their  women  is  very  rare,  and  virtue  is  held 
in  high  esteem.  But  very  few  half-breed  Indians 
can  be  found,  nor  t  re  they  known  in  the  State. 
This  tribe,  with  tlie  Bannocks,  were  especially 
hostile  to  the  whites  in  an  early  day,  and  fought 
for  many  years  with  desperation  and  cruelty  to 
prevent  the  settlement  and  development  of  this 
country.  Their  courage  and  deadly  enmity  have 
been  displayed  on  many  a  hard-fought  field,  and 
if  there  are  fomilies  in  the  East  or  on  the  Paciflo 
Coast,  who  still  mourn  the  loss  of  missing  ones, 
who  were  last  heard  of  as  crossing  the  plains, 
some  Indian  warrior,  yet  living,  might  be  able  to 
explain  the  mystery  which  has  enveloped  their 
final  doom.  For  a  number  of  years,  with  cease- 
less vigilance,  they  hung  aroung  the  trains  of 


TWO  BITS  TO  SEE  THE  PAPP008K. 


Both  are  energetio  little  sheets,  and  fitly  illus- 
trate the  enterprise  of  these  Western  towns. 
Aeross  the  river,  over  a  wooden  bridge,  is  located 
the.oemetenr,  in  which  the  remains  of  the  dead 
are  enclosed.  It  is  on  on  elevated,  sandy  beach, 
the  second  terrace  or  step  from  the  river  level. 
By  it  winds  the  stage  road  to  Idaho  and  the 
north.  The  Fiutes  Iiave  their  tents  scattered 
on  all  sides  of  the  town,  to  which  the  euphoni- 
ous name  of  "  Wick-ee-ups  "  is  ^ven.  They 
serve  to  remind  ond  of  the  deporhng  glory — if 
fhey  ever  had  any— of  the  Indian  race.    In  this 


emigrants,  eager  to  dispatch  a  stray  victim,  or 
upon  the  borders  of  settlements,  ready  to  strike 
down  the  hardy  pioneer  at  the  first  favorable 
opportunitv.  At  present,  overpowered  by  num- 
bers, they  live  upon  the  bounty  of  their  former 
enemies,  and  are  slowly,  but  surely,  learning,  by 
example,  the  ways  of  civilization.  Aa  a  class, 
however,  they  are  still  indolent,  dirty  and  cov- 
ered with  vermin.  But  they  begin  to  learn  the 
worth  of  money,  and  know  alre»ly  thatit  has  a 
purchasing  power  which  will  supply  their  soanlj 
wardrobe,  and  satisfy  their  longmg  appetites. 


TME   ^^€IFW  WQimiSr. 


209 


^ 


The  mines  on  tho  top  of  "Winnemucca  Moun- 
tain arn  plainly  Been,  and  thn  road  that  leadH  to 
them  from  the  earn,  and  tho  tourint  from  thiH 
will  l>e  able  to  understand  something  of  tho 
difficulties  attending  the  process  of  getting  out 
ore.  These  mines,  like  many  others  tributary 
to  this  point,  are  not  worked  at  present. 

As  wo  pass  westward,  a  grand  view  of  a 
distant  range  is  obtained  between  Winnemucca 
and  Black  Butte.  The  last  named  moun- 
tain is  an  isolated  peak,  and  stands  out  like 
a  sentinel  on  guard.  As  we  approach  the 
higher  peaks  of  tho  East  or  Humboldt  Bangc, 
wepass 

Mone  Creek — 403  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, with  an  elevation  of  4,322  feet.  It  is  on 
unimportant 
station,  with 
side  track,  etc. 
You  will  have 
to  look  sharp 
to  see  tho 
creek  or  tho 
roses,  and,  by 
way  of  varietj, 
you  will  dis- 
cover plenty  of 
sage  brush.  It 
is  a  staple  arti- 
cle  in  this 
country.  Tho 
river  still  winds 
its  way  along 
our  ri^ht,  and 
there  is  an  oc- 
casional ranch 
on  the  moun- 
tain slope, 
w^here  the 
water  from 
some  spring  or 
little  creek  can 
be  obtained  for 
irrigation. 

JRffttpberry 
—393  milea 
from  San  Fran* 
Cisco;  elevation 
4,327  feet.     If 

roses  were  few  and  far  between  at  the  last 
station,  raspberries  are  less  frequent  here.  But 
these  names  are  tantalizing  and  suggestive  in 
the  places  they  are  applied  to.  Havmg  turned 
the  point  of  East  Bange,  we  bear  off  to  the 
left.  Eugene  Mountain  is  now  on  our  right, 
across  the  Humboldt  Biver. 

Mill  City — 386  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
with  an  elevation  of  4,225  feet.  This  was  once 
a  town  with  great  prospects.  It  was  to  be  the 
terminus  of  the  irrigatmg  ditch  which  we  saw 
beyond  Winnemucca  and  Golconda. 

The  town  has  become  a  great  shipping  point 


B.  B.  BTATIOir,  HUMBOLDT,  KKVADA. 


for  cattle — 100  cars  being  shipped  lost  year — 
a  number  which  is  greatly  exceeded  in  some 
years.  It  has  a  steam  foundry  in  operation — 
mostly  employed  in  the  manufacture  and  re- 
pair of  mining  machinery — and  is  the  railroad 
point  whore  the  business  of  several  mining  dis- 
tricts is  done.  Ore  from  Dun  Glen,  Union- 
villo  and  Star  City,  comes  here  for  shipment, 
and  once  per  week,  bullion  comes  over  from 
Unionville.  This  last  place  was  formerlv  more 
lively  than  at  present.  It  is  a  town  of  about 
3U0  i)eople — has  four  quartz  mills  in  operation, 
and  is  connected  with  Mill  City  by  a  daily 
Ntago  line,  which  passes  bv  Star  City — distance 
to  Unionville,  twenty  miles;  to  Star  City,  ten 
miles;  to  Dua  Olen,  eight  miles.    The  general 

course  of  the 
railroad  being 
east  and  west, 
these  places  are 
all  south  of  it 
The  mining 
districts,  in- 
cluding the 
towns  named, 
which  are 
tributary  to 
this  place,  are 
Unionville, 
Star  and  Indi- 
an Districts — 
all  tributary  to 
Mill  City.  Mill 
Citv  has  a  neat 
little  hotel,  a 
livery  stable 
and  several 
dwellings. 

Leaving  Mill 
City,  we  pass 
rapidly  by  an 
opening  or  gap 
in  the  monn* 
tains  on^  our 
left,  while  a 
broad  extent 
of  valley  opens 
out  on  our 
right  as  Eu- 
gene  Mountain  sinks  into  the  plain.  The  riv-  r 
recedes  from  our  view,  and  wmds  along  across 
an  alkali  flat  some  six  or  seven  miles  away. 

In  coming  down  this  valley  from  Mill  City, 
we  pass  a  high  mountain  on  our  left — said  to 
be  tho  highest  peak  in  Nevada— 8, 000  feet  high; 
It  is  ctdled  Star  Peak.  The  elevation  given  is 
the  common  rumor  in  the  vicinity.  It  is  cer- 
tainly a  high  mountain,  and  its  lofty  towers  ore 
nearly  always  covered  with  snow.  Opposite, 
this  mountain  is 

Humboldt — 423  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
with  an  elevation  of  4,236  feet  above  the  sear— 


i' J 


210 


TMM  9;§CiFtC  TOtmiST. 


nearly  the  same  aa  the  Great  Salt  Lake.  We 
have  Deen  coming;  down  hill  all  the  way  from 
Wells,  and  yet  we  are  no  lower  than  wnou  we 
left  Ogden.    We  have  now  arrived  at 

An  OuhIh  In  the  Deitet't. 

The  traveler  from  the  East,  will  be  especially 
delighted  with  this  spot.  It  will  remind  him  o£ 
things  human,  of  living  in  a  land  of  cultivation 
again.  The  first  growing  trees  since  leaving 
Ogden  will  be  seen  liere,  with  green  grass,  siiady 
bowers  and  flowing  fountains.  Humboldt 
House  is  a  regular  breakfast  and  8upi>er  station, 
at  which  all  passenger  trains  stop  for  meals. 
The  proprietors  have  been  here  quite  a  number 
of  years,  and  seem  to  delight  in  making  their 
house,  and  surroundings  beautiful  and  attractive) 
to  the  traveling  public.  A  fountain  surrounded 
with  an  iron  fence,  springs  up  in  front  of  the 
house,  while  gold-fish  swim  around  in  the  basin 
below.  East  of  the  house,  trees,  locusts  and 
poplars  are  growing  finely,  while  the  ground  is 
covered  with  a  thick  matting  of  blue-grass.  At 
first  this  lot  was  sown  to  alfalfa,  which  grew 
very  rank  and  strong.  Blue-grass  seed  was 
afterwards  sown,  and  now  it  has  rooted  every- 
thing else  out  and  grows  luxuriantly.  A  field 
south  of  the  road  toward  the  mountain,  has  pro- 
duced 18  tons  of  alfalfa  at  one  cutting,  and  has 
been  cut  from  five  to  seven  times  a  year.  In  the 
garden  north  of  the  house,  toward  the  valley,  all 
kinds  of  vegetables  grow  luxuriantly.  The 
average  yield  of  potatoes  is  300  bushels  to  the 
acre,  of  the  very  best  quality.  We  were,  how- 
ever, particularly  interested  \n  the  experiments 
made  in  fruit  growing.  Here  in  the  midst, 
almost,  of  the  Great  Nevada  Desert,  with  barren- 
ness and  desolation  spread  out  on  every  hand — 
with  a  high  rocky  mountain  on  one  side,  and  a 
huge  alkali  flat  on  the  other,  nestled  under  the 
towering  cliffs  as  though  it  would  claim  shelter 
and  protection,  is  this  Oasis  in  the  desert, — this 
reminder  of  more  genial  climes  and  a  more 
kindly  soil — this  relief  from  the  wearisome, 
dreary  views,  which  have  everywhere  met  our 
gaze,  over  the  largest  part  of  the  journey.  The 
experiments  so  successful  here  prove,  beyond  a 
doubt,  that  the  desert  can  be  reclaimed  and 
*♦  made  to  bud  and  blossom  as  the  rose."  Grit, 
labor  and  above  all,  water,  will  do  it.  Here  is 
an  orchard  of  apple  trees  five  years  old,  bearing 
not  only  fruit  as  beautiful  to  the  eye  as  that 
raised  in  California,  but  superior  in  flavor — in 
fact  retaining  the  flavor  of  eastern  apples 
These  apple  trees  of  all 
bearers,  and  the  same  is 
pears,  plums  and  cherries, 
opposite  the  water  tank, 
25  or  30  feet  in  diameter, 
speckled  fellows,  very  thick 
Bocky  cove^  have  been  built 


varieties  are  prolific 

true  of  the  peaches, 

In  the  orchard  and 

is  a  fish-pond  some 

In  it  a*""  trout,  great 

and    very    shy. 

for  them  in  the 


bottom  and  center  of  the  basin,  and  here  the^y 


hide — seeking  sliade  from  the  rays  of  the  hot  sum- 
mer's sun,  and  also  from  those  of  the  silvery 
moon.  The  experiments  first  made  with  these 
fish  were  costly,  but  have  at  last  proved  suc- 
cessful. This  place  and  its  surroundings  cuusu 
the  traveler  not  only  to  rejoice  over  tlie  scene 
which  here  greets  his  fjaze,  but  serves  to  remind 
him  of  home — of  "  God's  country  "  either  in  the 
far  East  or,  at  this  iK)int,  in  the  nearer  West 

In  the  fish-iM)nd  mentioned,  there  are  a  rouph; 
of  wild  geese,  and  a  Mandarin  duck  said  to  be 
from  Japan.  It  is  a  beautiful  little  cr'aturc 
with  tufts  of  feathers  on  each  side  of  its  head, 
and  finely  colored  plumage.  The  proprietors  ol 
the  Ilumlwldt  House,  seem  to  strive  to  otter 
attractions  to  their  guests  in  l)oth  their  indoor 
accommodations,  and  outside  arrangements. 

The  station  has  shipped  a  large  number  of 
cattle,  and  is  the  shij)pinp  jxnnt  for  the  8ul|ihur 
or  brimstone,  that  is  manulactured  some  tliiity 
miles  northwest  of  the  place.  The  olil  emi- 
grant road  leading  to  Northern  CaUforniv 
and  Southern  Oregon,  winds  around  the  base  of 
Eugene  Mountain  and  near  a  low  butte,  nv 
sembling  a  haystack,  which  can  be  seen  in  the 
distance  across  the  alkali  flats.  This  road  was 
laid  out  by  General  F.  W.  Lander,  who  was 
killed  in  the  war  of  1861,  and  is  said  to  be  one 
of  the  best  wagon  routes  to  the  regions  named. 
The  Humboldt  House  is  the  place  of  resort  for 
tourists  who  desire  to  visit  the  sulphur  mines, 
Star  Peak,  or  the  mining  districts  in  the  Hum- 
boldt Range,  Eugene  Mountain,  and  the  Ante- 
lope Range.  The  latter  is  a  low  range  on  our 
right,  beginning  as  we  leave  this  station.  In 
front  and  south-east  of  the  Humboldt  House,  is 
the  Humboldt  Mining  District,  four  to  six  miles 
distant.  Humboldt  Canon  opens  in  the  mountain 
side,  in  which  was  formerly  located  Humboldt 
City.  Mines  were  first  discovered  in  the  rocky 
gorges  of  this  range  in  1861,  and  there  was  a  great 
rush  here  from  all  parts  of  the  country.  The 
"  City  "  sprang  up  as  if  by  magic,  and  at  one 
time  contained  about  500  people.  Several  sub- 
stantial buildings  were  erected,  a  few  of  which 
still  remain.  The  mines  were  diligently  pros- 
pected; but,  not  rewarded  with  immediate  suc- 
cess, the  expense  of  living  and  building  being 
very  great,  together  with  the  determined  hos- 
tility of  the  Indians,  the  people  left  it  as  sud- 
denly as  they  came.  The  district  remained 
idle  until  1874-5,  when  work  was  again  beprun 
by  a  few  individuals.  The  ore  is  gold,  silver 
and  argentiferous  galena. 

Antelope  District  is  sixteen  miles  away,  in  » 
westerly  direction;  Geneva  District  is  twenty- 
one  miles  distant,  in  a  northwesterly  directiou; 
both  of  these  are  but  little  developed. 

The  sulphur  mines  aro  thirty  miles  away,  in 
a  northwesterly  direction.  Very  large  deposits 
of  native  sulphur  are  found  in  these  mines, 
which  wUI  average  nearly  75  per  cent,  pui-e. 


TMM  ^^cinc  FQtmisr, 


211 


llOt  HUlll- 

I!  Hilvery 
itli  theHt; 
ived  HiH!- 
\fH  cauHO 

0  reiniiKl 
er  ill  til" 

VV  CHt 

1  ft  roiii)l<! 
(aiJi  to  be 
I  cnatuif 

itH  head, 
pii(!tors  of 

0  to  oRt'i- 
ijir  indoor 
iients. 
minber  ot 
lie  8ulj>hnr 
mie  thiity 
)  olil  euu- 

CaliforniB 
he  base  of 

butte,  nv 
fieen  in  the 
i  road  was 
,  wlio  wua 
d  to  be  one 
ons  uanit'd. 
[  resort  for 
(hnr  mines, 

1  the  Hum- 
1  the  Ante- 
mge  on  our 
itation.  5n 
It  House,  is 
to  six  miles 
le  mountain 

Humbol(it 
n  tlie  rocky 
i  was  a  fri't'iit 
iintry.    The 
and  at  one 
Several  sub- 
ew  of  •wliii'li 
gently  pros- 
mediato  suo- 
ilding  being 
rmined  bos- 
jft  it  as  Buil- 
ct  remained 
again  bepun 

gold,  silver 

8  away,  i"  » 

•t  is  twcuty- 
rly  direction; 
jed. 

ilea  away,  m 
arge  deposits 
these  minesi 
cent.  pure. 


There  are  two  mines  opened.  One  called  the 
Mc Worthy  Mine,  located  and  developed  by  Mr. 
MoWorthy,  is  now  ouerattid  by  a  ban  Francisco 
company.  The  jjroUuct  of  this  mine  is  reflned 
by  retorts,  three  in  number,  which  are  now  in 
active  operation,  and  which  are  capable  of  pro- 
ducing about  tlirco  tons  per  dav  or  twenty -tour 
hours.  The  mines  of  the  Pacine  Hulphur  Com- 
pany are  about  one  and  one-half  niiles  distant 
from  the  M(! Worthy  Mines.  They  were  formerly 
known  as  the  Wright  and  Egbert  Mines,  The 
ore,  as  it  comes  from  the  mine,  in  a  mixture  of 
sulphur,  clay,  gypsum,  water.  Tliis  company 
fuses  the  crude  or  mixed  ore  by  heat,  and  tlien 
separates  them  by  a  chemical  process,  whicli  is 
claimed  to  be  very  simple,  producing  the 
"  brimstone  "  of  commerce,  nearly  100  per  cent, 
fine.  The  deposits  lie  in  the  hills,  and  are 
found  from  20  to  100  feet  thick.  They  are  also 
found  in  some  of  the  a«ljoining  vallovH,  but  are 
not  as  pure  i.,  the  valleys  as  in  the  hills  They 
are  covered  with  ashes  and  mixed  with  extiane- 
ous  matter.  In  fact,  wherever  these  deposits 
come  to  the  surface,  they  are  covered  with  ashes, 
nearly  white  in  color,  indicating  that  at  some 
period  they  were  on  fire,  and  that  the  fire  was 
extinguished — smothered — bv  the  accumulation 
of  these  ashes.  When  *♦  the  elements  shall 
melt  with  fervent  heat,"  the  vast  sulphur  de- 
posits of  Nevada  will  add  fuel  to  the  flames  and 
greatly  accelerate  the  melting  process. 

About  half  a  mile  west  of  Humboldt,  on  our 
right,  is  a  sulphur  deposit.  It  is  not  worked 
for  the  reason  of  its  impurities — a  far  better  ar- 
ticle of  cnide  is  being  obtained  elsewhere.  The 
river,  still  on  our  right,  seems  to  have  cut  a 
deeper  channel  in  the  vaUey,  and  is  seldom  seen 
from  tlie  cars.  On  our  left  are  the  towering 
peaks  of  the  Humboldt  Range. 

A  Vigilance  Committee  Incident, — The 
following  incident  whicli.  happened  in  one  of  the 
Nevada  mining  towns,  is  vouched  for  by  Clar- 
ence Ki;  ^ : 

Early  in  the  fifties,  on  a  still,  hot  summer's 
afternoon,  a  certain  man,  in  a  camp  of  the 
northern  mines,  which  shall  be  nameless,  having 
tracked  his  two  donkeys  and  one  horse  a  half 
mile,  and  discovering  that  a  man's  track  with 
spur  marks  followed  them,  came  back  to  town 
and  told  "  the  boys,"  who  loitered  about  a  popu- 
lar saloon,  that  in  is  opinion  some  Mexican  had 
stolen  the  animals.  Such  news  as  this  demanded, 
naturally,  drinks  r  .  round. 

"  Do  you  know,  gentlemen,"  said  one  who  as- 
sumed leadership,  "  that  just  naturally  to  shoot 
these  greasers  aint  the  best  way  ?  Give  'em  a 
fair  jury  trial,  and  rope  'em  up  with  ail  the 
majesty  of  the  law.     That's  the  cure." 

Such  words  of  moderation  were  well  received, 
and  they  drank  again  to  "Here's  hoping  we 
ketch  that  greaser." 

As  they  loafed  back  to  the  veranda,  a  Mexican 


walked  over  the  hill   brow,   jingling  nia  cpurs 
pleusantlv  in  aecord  with  a  whistled  wah/. 

The  advocate  lor  the  luw  said  in  an  undertone, 
"  ThatV  the  cusa." 

A  rush,  a  struggle,  and  tlm  Mexican,  bound 
hand  and  foot,  lay  on  his  back  in  the  bai-ixjom. 
The  camp  turned  out  t<>  a  man. 

Happily  such  cries  as  "  Siriuij  him  up  I "  "flun» 
the  ihyt/onetl  hibriaitor ! "  and  other  ecinally  pleas< 
ant  phrases  fell  unheeded  u|Mjn  his  Spanish  ear. 
A  jury  was  quickly  gatliered  in  the  stieet,  and 
despite  refusals  to  serve,  the  crowd  hurried  them 
in  behind  the  bar. 

A  brief  statement  of  the  case  was  made  by  the 
ci-devant  advocate,  and  they  showed  the  jury  in- 
to a  commodious  jwker-room  where  were  seats 
grouped  about  neat  green  tables.  The  noise 
outside,  in  the  bar-i'oom,  by  and  hy  died  away 
into  complete  silence,  but  from  atar  down  the 
canon  came  confused  sounds  as  of  disorderly 
cheering.  They  came  nearer,  and  again  the 
lijrht-hearted  noise  of  Iniinan  laughter  mingled 
with  clinking  glasses  around  the  bar. 

A  low  knock  at  the  jui-y  door,  the  lock  burst 
in,  and  a  dozen  smiling  fellows  asked  the  ver- 
dict. A  forenum  promptly  answered,  "Not 
guilty" 

With  volleyed  oaths,  and  ominous  laying  of 
hands  on  pistol  hilts,  the  boys  slammed  the  door 
with  "  you'//  have  to  do  better  than  that" 

In  half  an  hour  the  advocate  gently  opened 
the  door  again. 

"  Your  opinion^  gentlemen?" 

"Guilty." 

"  Correct,  you  can  come  out.  We  himg  him 
an  hour  ago." 

The  jury  took  theirs  next,  and  when,  after  a 
few  minutes,  the  pleasant  village  returned  to  its 
former  tranquility,  it  was  "  aHoued  "  at  more  than 
one  saloon,  that  "Mexicans'U  know  enough  to 
let  white  men's  stock  alone  after  this."  One 
and  another  exchanged  the  belief  that  this  sort 
of  thing  was  more  sensible  than  "  nipping  'em  on 
sight." 

When,  before  sunset,  the  bar-keeper  concluded 
to  sweep  some  dust  out  of  his  poker-room  back- 
door,'he  felt  a  momentary  surprise  at  fl  iding  the 
missing  horse  dozing  under  the  shadow  of  an 
oak,  and  the  two' lost  donkeys  serenely  masticat- 
ing playing-cards,  of  which  many  bushels  lay  in 
a  dirty  pile.  He  was  then  reminded  that  the 
animals  had  been  there  all  day. 

Rf/e  Patch, — 411  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
with  an  elevation  of  4,257  feet.  In  early  days, 
in  the  canons  that  put  down  from  the  mountains 
near  here  and  along  the  banks  of  the  little 
creeks  flowing  through  them,  there  were  large 
patches  of  wild  rye,  from  which  the  station  took 
its  name.  The  increase,  however,  in  the  herds 
of  the  stockmen  has  destroyed  its  native  growth, 
and  it  is  now  seldom  seen.  It  is  a  small  station 
with  a  store  and  saloon,  f  reight^ouse,  side  track. 


^■^■■1 


:ri 


212 


etc.  It  is  the  location  of  a  ten-stamp  mill  owned 
by  the  Rye  Patch  Mill  and  Mining  Company, 
and  which  is  supplied  by  ore  taken  fruin  the 
company's  mine  in  the  mountains  on  our  left. 
This  mine  is  about  four  miles  distant  from  the 
station.  The  Rye  Patch  Mining  District,  and 
the  Eldoiiuio  Mining  District,  six  ^liles  away, 
are  tributary  to  this  place.  The  train  stops  but 
a  moment,  and  as  you  look  to  the  mountains,  on 
the  left,  two  high  peaks  are  seen — the  left  one 
being  Stark  Peak,  and  the  right  one  Eldorado 
Mountain.  This  is  the  best  view  of  these  mount- 
ains that  can  be  obtained.  Leaving  this  station, 
the  mountains  of  the  Humboldt  Range  gradually 
dwindle  into  hills,  and  a  conical  or  isolated  little 
peak  across  the  range  is  seen.  It  seems  fully  as 
prominent  as  a  wart  on  a  man's  nose.  It  is  called 
Black  Knob — a  very  appropriate  name — and  near 
it  is  Relief  Mine  and  mill.  There  is  no  stage  to 
this  mining  distrio't.,  and  its  principal  business 
point  is 

Oreana, — 400  mil  3  from  San  Francisco, 
with  an  elevation  of  4,181  feet.  The  descent 
from  Humlraldt  has  been  quite  rapid,  and  we 
will  soon  be  at  the  lowest  elevation  in  this  great 
basin.  The  Antelope  Range  continues  on  the 
north-west,  and  the  Humboldt  Range  on  the 
left,  though  the  peaks  in  these  ranges  grow 
smaller  as  we  pass  this  place.  Oreana  is  the 
railroad  and  business  point  for  the  following 
mining  districts  :  in  the  Antelope  Range  is  the 
Trinity  District,  seven  miles  away,  ore  princi- 
pally milling.  The  Governor  Booth  Mine  has 
the  most  development  thus  far,  though  other 
prospects  are  said  to  be  looking  well.  Some  of 
the  ore  found  in  this  district  is  claimed  to  be 
very  rich.  Adjoining  this  is  the  Arabia  Dis- 
trict, five  miles  from  the  station ;  it  has  smelt- 
ing ore.  Three  miles  from  the  mine  and  two 
miles  from  the  station,  on  the  Humboldt  River, 
which  has  been  dammed  at  this  point,  are  the 
smelting  furnaces,  where  the  ore  is  reduced  to 
base  bullion.  There  is  also  a  small  stamp  mill 
at  this  point.  The  principal  mines  thus  far 
developed  in  this  district  are  the  Vanderbilt, 
Montezuma  and  Hurricane,  and  the  ore  is  said 
to  average  33  per  cent,  metal, — lead,  antimony 
and  silver.  South  of  the  railroad  first  comes 
the  Sacrament  District,  seven  miles  away.  It  has 
milling  ore  but  the  prospects  are  not  yet  devel- 
oped. Spring  Valley  District  is  next,  12  miles 
distant.  The  ore  is  gold  and  silver,  and  the 
Eagle  Mine  has  a  fifteen-stamp  mill  in  operation 
reducing  the  ore.  Relief  District  follows,  16  miles 
from  Oreana.  It  has  milling  oro  and  a  five- 
stamp  mill.  At  the  south  end  of  this  district,  is 
»  very  superior  mine  of  antimony,  the  ores  of 
which  are  brought  to  this  station  and  shipped  to 
San  Francisco.  Bolivia  Distrii.  .  is  4!)  miles 
away,  and  abounds  in  copper  ore.  Tidal  Wave 
is  the  name  of  the  principal  mine ;  Kellogg's 
Mine  is  next  in  importance.  Conveyances  to  these 


mining  districts  can  be  obtained  at  Oreana. 
The  region  round  about  the  station  is  occupied 
by  stockmen,  and  large  numbers  of  cattle  and 
horses  are  grazing  upon  the  extensive  ranges  in 
the  vicinity.  No  trcaveler  will  be  able  to  see 
what  they  live  on,  but  stockmen  claim  that  they 
relish  the  white  sage  which  abounds  here,  anil 
that  they  will  grow  fat  upon  it.  The  very  air  is 
heavily»perfumed  with  sage. 

Leaving  Oreana,  we  pass  round  a  curve  whore 
the  Humboldt  River  bends  in  toward  the  hills 
on  our  left,  and  soon  cross  the  river  which  makes 
its  way  into  Humboldt  Lake.  After  crossiiijr 
the  river,  the  large  giov.th  of  sage  brush  and 
greasewood  8hov,s  that  the  soil  in  this  vicinity 
ic  very  rich  and  that,  properly  cultivated  and 
well  supplied  with  water,  it  will  produce  im- 
mense crops. 

Liovelofk's, — 341  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
with  an  elevation  of  3,977  feet.  It  is  a  side 
track  station  with  a  telegraph  office,  a  store, 
post-office  and  a  few  adjoining  buildings.  The 
Humlwldt  River  near  here,  spreads  out  over  con- 
siderable territory — a  fact  which  renders  irri- 
gatio"  comparatively  easy.  It  has  also  caused 
the  formation  of  a  large  body  of  natural  mead- 
ows, from  which  immense  quantities  of  hay  are 
cut  and  shipped  to  different  jwints  along  tiie 
line  of  the  road.  It  is  also  a  fine  grazing  region 
and  large  herds  of  cattle  are  fattened  here  upon  the 
rich  native  grasses  and  the  white  sage.  There  are 
three  varieties  of  the  sage  brush  to  be  found  dii 
the  plains  and  on  the  deserts.  The  largest  kind 
is  used  as  fuel  for  the  engines  at  several  stani]i 
mills ;  white  sage  is  considerably  smaller  and 
affords  grazing  for  both  cattle  and  sheep;  the 
clover  sage,  still  smaller,  is  not  as  plentiful  as  the 
former  kii.ds,  but  is  highly  relisned  by  sheep. 
Thus  we  have  at  last  found  the  uses  to  which 
this  shrub  is  applied.  Even  greasewood,  wiun 
it  first  starts  up  in  the  spring,  and  be.'ore  it 
hardens,  is  a  favorite  food  with  sheep  and  swine. 

There  is  quite  ■<  settlement  of  fanner?  near 
Lovelock'j}.  The  station  itself  is  named  sfter  a 
gentleman  who  lives  near  it.  and  who  is  an  old 
settler  in  this  part  of  the  countiy.  Farms  are 
being  cleared  of  sage  bnish  and  greasswocid. 
irrigating  ditches  are  being  dug,  and  the  success 
which  has  hitherto  attended  ';'^e  growing  of 
barley  and  potatoes,  induces  quite  a  number  to 
engage  in  the  business,  and  a  black,  rich  soil 
gives  every  promise  of  encouragement.  Before 
the  railroad  came,  the  meadow  or  pasture  lands 
here  were  renowned  among  the  emigrants,  par- 
ties of  whom  recruited  their  stock  afte;  the 
wearisome  journey  across  the  plains.  Upon 
the  Humboldt  meaoows  are  now  grazing 
nearly  400,000  head  of  cattle.  After  leaving 
Rye  Patch,  the  Humboldt  Mountains  ou 
our  left  dwindle  considerably,  and  are  neither 
ragged  nor  formidable  after  reaching  this 
)]^ce.      The    same    is    likewise    true  of   the 


P'r 


213 


u 


it  Oreana. 
3  occupied 
cattle  and 
ranges  in 
ble  to  see 
I  that  tlu'v 
I  here,  and 
I  very  air  is 

urve  where 
•d  the  hills 
hich  makes 
er  crossing' 
brush  and 
liis  vicinity 
;ivated  and 
produce  ini- 

n  Francisco, 
[t  is  a  side 
ce,   a  store, 
dings.     The 
)ut  over  con- 
renders  irri- 
alfio  caused 
itural  mciid- 
■s  of  hay  are 
ts  along  the 
azing  region 
here  upon  the 
B.     There  are 
be  found  on 
largest  kind 
everal  stani]' 
smaller  and 
d  sheep;  the, 
entiful  as  tlie 
?d   by    sheep, 
uses  to  which 
ewood,  wlun 
ind  be/ore  it 
ep  and  swine. 
fanner*  near 
amed  after  a 
who  is  an  nld 
Farms   are 
greas3wood. 
id  the  success 
growing  of 
!  a  number  to 
lack,  rich  soil 
nent.    Before 
pasture  lands 
migrants,  par- 
)ck   after  the 
aiiw.      Upon 
now     grazing 
\fter  leaving 
fountains    ou 
1  are  neither 
-caching   this 
true  of   the 


Trinity  Range  on  our  right  They  are  low, 
barren,  tinged  with  reddish  brown ;  the  evi- 
dences of  volcanic  action  become  more  apparent 
as  we  puss,  and  the  broken  lava  of  the  desert, 
the  cinders  and  I'coritB,  visible  in  places,  speak  of 
the  time  when  the  mountain  ranges  near  here, 
were  seething  volcanoes  and  vomited  forth 
smoke,  flames,  fire  and  lava  with  great  profu- 
sion. Passing  Lovelock's  we  soon  arrive  at  a 
point,  where  a  glimj>s ;  can  be  obtained  of  the 
waters  of  Humboldt  Laki;,  just  under  the  mount- 
ain ridge  on  our  left.  We  have  also  passed  by 
tiie  richer  soil  that  surrounds  the  kst  station, 
and  entered  upon  t!ie  barren  desert  again. 

Granite  l*oiHt — 332  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, with  an  elevation  of  3,918  feet.  Approach- 
ing the  sink  in  this  great  basin,  it  will  be  seen 
that  our  elevation  is  decreasing,  but  this  will 
only  last  for  a  short  distance,  and  then  iu  will 
be  up  hill  again.  On  the  rii;iit  of  the  station, 
which  is  merely  a  side  track,  tiiere  is  a  ragged, 
broken  mountain,  which  u.idonbtedly  gives  the 
place  its  name.  It  is  the  only  thing  curious  or 
inieresting  to  be  seen  from  tlie  ears.  As  we  leave 
this  place  the  lake  comes  int  iiiU  view — a  beau- 
tiful sheet  of  water  with  white,  s.Ity  incrusta- 
tions all  around  it,  like  a  cloud  fringed  with  a 
silver  border.  The  waters  on  the  shore  nearest 
the  road,  are  said  to  be  far  more  brackish  and 
saline  in  character  than  those  on  the  farther 
side.  Tiie  channel  through  the  lake  is  on  that 
side,  and  probably  the  cause  of  the  difference. 
The  lake  abounds  in  tish  but  they  are  mostly 
in  the  fresh  water  cliannel,  and  at  the  proper 
season  it  is  a  great  resort  for  pelicans,  wild 
geese  and  ducks.  We  approach  nearer  the  shore 
as  we  pass  to 

/ii'oie^H'.**,— 325  miles  from  San  Franci.soo, 
with,  au  elevation  of  3,!J29  feet.  It  is  a  coaling 
station,  and  f.ngines  sometimes  take  water  from 
the  tank,  pumped  from  the  lake,  though  it  is 
poor  stuff  to  make  steam  with.  Above  the 
nearer  range  of  mountains,  just  across  the  lake, 
can  be  seen  the  tops  of  a  farther  and  higher 
range  i>i  the  distance.  This  higher  range  runs 
south  of  the  Hunrboldt  and  Carson  Sink,  and 
lootns  into  view  as  the  nearer  range  gives  way. 
Humboldt  I^ke  was  not  as  large  formerly  as 
now, — in  fact  it  was  a  simple  widening  of  the 
river  as  it  entered  the  gateway  of  the  sink  be 
low.  At  the  foot  of  the  lake  a  ridge  of  land  ex- 
tends nearly  across  the  valley,  and  there  was  some- 
thing of  a  gorge  througii  which  the  outlet  passed. 
The  opportunity  to  build  a  dam  was  thus 
improved,  and  what  was  formerly  a  little  widen- 
ing in  the  river,  has  now  become  a  lake  about 
35  miles  long  and  from  10  to  18  miles  wide  in 
the  widest  places.  It  is  filled  with  islands 
caused  by  this  rise,  and  the  head  or  volume  of 
water  thus  accumulivted  serves  to  run  a  stamp 
mill,  located  a  f>'W  iniies  below  the  station  a  id 
under  a  reddish  bluff  across  the  valley.    Ore  for 


this  mill  has  been  found  in  the  mountains  near  it, 
and  some  is  brought  from  the  range  on  the 
north.  You  will  notice  an  island  nearly  op- 
posite the  station,  and  may  be  interested  to 
know  that  it  was  part  of  the  main  land  before  the 
dam  was  built.  The  mounta!  is  on  each  side  of 
the  track,  now  become  high  hills  though,  occa- 
sionally, a  ragged  peak  is  seen,  to  relieve  the 
monutiony  of  the  journej'.  We  pass  over  the 
ridge  of  land  before  spoken  of,  and  fairly  enter 
upoti  what  is  the  beginning  of  the  Humboldt 
and  Jarson  Sink.  AVe  pass  down  on  the  low 
alkali  flats  which  are  whitened  with  salt,  and 
which  extend  for  miles  as  far  as  the  eye  oan 
rea'jn,  off  to  our  left. 

It'/iite  I*lahis, — 313  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, with  an  elevation  of  3,891  feet — the  lowest 
iwint  we  reach  in  this  gieat  basin.  The  place — 
a  side  track,  is  appropriately  named  for  it  in 
surrounded  by  a  white  alkali  desert,  covered  in 
places  with  salt  and  alkali  deposits. 

The  evidences  of  volcanic  action  and  a  lava 
formation  are  everywhere  visible  in  Q\e  hills  and 
on  the  plains  in  this  vicir.ity.  Though  the  plains 
immediately  adjoining  the  station  are  white  with 
alkali  or  salty  deposits,  yet  the  ridge  and  uplands 
to  the  right  are  covered  with  the  reddish,  port  us 
rocks  and  finer  blackish  sand  which  always  ac- 
company this  formation.  At  AVhite  Plains  we 
h.ave  reached  the  lowest  elevation  on  the  Central 
Pacific,  east  of  the  Sierras.  We  are,  in  faci,, 
almost  in  the  sink  itself  of  the  Humboldt  and 
Carson  Rivers.  The  low  flats  stretching  away 
to  our  left,  are  usually  more  or  less  covered  with 
water  in  the  season  of  floods,  and  the  two  rivers 
virtually  unite  in  this  great  valley  or  basin. 
There  is  no  visible  outlet  to  these  streams,  or 
rather  to  this  basin,  and  the  immense  dr.ainage 
of  these  two  rivers  sinks  in  the  sand  and  is  taken 
up  by  evaporation.  The  oldest  settlers  in  this 
region  of  country,  hold  to  the  opinion  that  the 
water  is  taken  up  by  evaporation,  and  say  that  at 
certain  seasons  of  the  year  this  process  is  very 
rapid — large  liodies  of  land  covered  with  water 
becoming  thoroughly  dry  in  a  few  days. 

Leaving  White  Plains,  we  again  begin  to  go 
up  a  grade.  We  have  to  cross  a  divide  between 
White  Plains  and  the  Hot  Spring  Valley.  This 
divide  is  reached  at 

Mirage, — 305  miles  from  San  Francisco,  with 
an  elevation  of  4,247  feet.  It  is  simply  a  side 
track  with  no  habitation  near  it  but  a  section- 
house— and  is  near  the  summit  of  the  divide. 
This  place,  like  many  others,  is  named  from  some 
peculiarity  of  location  or  from  some  character- 
istic of  tlie  country.  The  wonderful  optical  de- 
lusions that  are  apparently  seen  here,  have  given 
it  a  suggestive  name.  When  the  conditions  of 
tlie  atmospliere  are  favorable,  wonderful  visions 
of  lakes,  mountains,  trees,  rivers,  etc.,  can  be  seen. 
It  is  reported  that  many  a  weary  emigrant  in  the 
days  of  old,  was  deceived  by  the  optical  illusions 


'.  ,1* 


:ii 


^'^B- 


214 


p,  I 


,|5 
I! 

if: ; 


that  here  seemed  so  real,  and  wondered  why  he 
did  not  reach  the  cooling  lakes  and  spreading 
shade  that  seemed  so  near  and  was  yet  so  far 
away.  The  heat  of  summer  during  the  day 
time  on  these  plains  is  almost  intolerable.  The 
dust,  sometimes  blowing  in  clouds,  is  suffo- 
cating, and  long  distances  add  to  the  incon- 
venience of  wagon  travel,  without  water.  But 
overland  travelers  on  the  trains  have  more 
comforts.  No  matter  how  oppressive  the  day, 
yet  the  moment  the  sun  is  set,  a  lovely  cool 
breeze  comes  from  the  mountains,  the  air  be- 
comes fresh,  and  sleep  is  delightful.  The 
heat  and  dust  of  the  day  is  soon  forgotten 
in  the  comforts  of  the  pure,  cool  night  at- 
mosphere. Crossing  a  low  divide,  the  end  of 
the  Antelope  Range  we  reach 

Hot  Springs, — 346  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, with  an  elevation  of  4,072  feet.  This  is  a  tel- 
egraph station  with  side  track,  section-houses,  etc. 
Great  efforts  have  been  made  here  to  sink  arte- 
sian wells  in  order  to  obtain  fresh  water  for  the 
use  of  the-  road.  First  a  depth  of  800  feet  was 
reached,  then  1,000  feet,  and  lastly  1,300  feet, 
but  all  without  success.  In  some  portions  of 
work  very  rapid  progress  would  be  made — 95 
feet  having  been  made  in  one  day — then  some 
Wd,  flinty  rock  would  be  struck,  and  progress 
^I  less  than  one  foot  per  dav  would  be  the  result, 
■^he  project  had  to  be  abandoned  at  last. 

The  station  is  in  the  midst  of  a  desert,  and  is 
iiamed  from  the  Hot  Springs,  whose  rising  steam 
can  readily  be  seen  about  half  a  mile  from  the 
track  on  the  left.  There  are  quite  a  number  of 
them  boiling  hot.  They  formerly  extended 
along  the  base  of  the  hill,  still  farther  to  the  left, 
and  nearer  the  track,  but  while  they  seem  to 
have  dried  up  in  one  locality,  they  have  broken 
out  in  another.  These  springs  are  now  owned 
by  a  German  company,  who  have  a  dwelling- 
house,  and  works  for  producing  borax,  erected 
near  by.  They  were  badly  "  sold  "  by  sharpers 
who  induced  them  to  believe  that  borar,  in 
large  quantUi  ^s,  could  be  obtained  here.  They 
sent  out  an  expert  who  was  induced  to  make 
a  favorable  report  to  the  effect  that  there  were 
inexhaustible  quantities  of  the  mineral  to  be 
found  near  here.  As  a  consequence,  they  in- 
vested large  sums  of  money  in  the  purchase  of 
the  mines  and  in  the  erection  of  works.  We 
believe  some  60  boxes  of  the  manufactured  arti- 
cle was  all  that  was  ever  turned  out,  and  then 
the  mine  suddenly  gave  out,  the  production 
ceased,  of  course,  and  the  company,  after  an  ex- 
penditure estimated  at  about  a  quarter  million  of 
dollars,  ceased  operations,  their  property  re- 
maining idle.  These  springs  are  said  to  be 
a  sovereign  remedy  for  rheumatism  and  kin- 
dred diseases,  and  the  property  may  yet  be 
utilized  as  an  infirmary  or  watermg-place 
for  invalids.  The  steam  from  these  springs 
can   be   seen   for    quite   a   distance    in    the 


cool  mornings  of  the  winter,  and  in  the  spring 
and  fall  months.  Looking  off  to  the  right,  as 
far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  almost,  is  a  valley  com- 
ing in  from  the  north-east — a  dreary  waste  of 
sage  brush  and  alkali,  which  extends  across  the 
track,  over  low  hills,  to  the  sink  of  the  Carson. 
We  move  out  through  a  gap  in  the  hills,  and  in 
about  two  miles  come  to  the  salt  works.  Build- 
ings have  been  erected,  side  track  put  in,  and 
large  platforms  built  where  the  salt  is  stored  pre- 
paratory to  shipping.  The  whole  face  of  the 
country,  in  this  vicinity,  is  nearly  white,  tlie  saline 
water  rising  to  the  surface  and  evapo«ating,  leaves 
the  white  incrustations  to  glisten  in  the  sun.  The 
salt  obtained  here  is  produced  by  solar  evapora- 
tion, and  is  said  to  be  nearly  99  per  cent.  pure. 
Formerly  vats  were  tried,  but  they  were  found  to 
be  useless  and  unnecessary.  Vats  are  now  dug  in 
the  ground  and  the  salt  water  pumped  into  them. 
It  soon  evaporates,  and  after  a  sufficient  quantity 
has  accumulated,  it  is  shoveled  out,  drawn  to  the 
station,  ground  and  sacked,  when  it  is  ready  for 
thfc  market.  We  are  now  passing  over  one  of  the 
most  uninviting  portions  of  the  desert.  The 
range  of  mountains  directly  in  front  are  those 
through  which  the  Truckee  River  comes,  and  the 
V?  3y,  both  north  and  south,  extends  beyond  our 
vi^jion.  Away  off  to  the  left  we  can  see  the 
mountains  south  of  the  Carson  Sink  and  River. 
The  aspect  of  the  desert  becomes  more  dreary  as 
we  approach 

Desei't, — 287  miles  from  San  Francisco ;  ele- 
vation, 4.018  feet.  It  is  only  a  side  track,  rightly 
named,  and  passenger  trains  seldom  stop.  The 
winds  that  sweep  the  baiTen  plains  here  heap  the 
sand  around  the  scattering  sage  brush  like  nuf^o- 
potato  hills.  Now  we  turn  toward  the  right 
approaching  the  base  of  the  adjoining  hills,  while 
boulders  of  liva,  large  and  small,  greet  the  eye. 
The  hill  on  our  right,  dwindles  into  the  plain; 
we  round  it,  toward  the  right,  and  arrive  at 

Ttvo-Mile, —  281  miles  from  San  Francisco; 
elevatio;i,4,]58  feet.  The  gap,  in  the  mountain 
range  in  front,  now  opens  and  we  see  where  the 
Truckee  River  comes  tumbling  down.  The 
valley  extends,  on  the  right,  till  it  is  lost  in  Pyra- 
mid Lake.  We  pass  rapidly  on,  and  in  a  short 
distance  pitch  down  a  steep  grade  into  the  valley 
of  the  Truckee,  where  green  grass,  green  trees 
and  flowing  water,  Grod's  best  gift  to  man,  again 
greet  our  vision. 

Wadftworfh, — 279  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco; elevation,  4,077  feet.  It  is  a  little  vil- 
lage of  about  400  inhabitants,  nestled  down  in 
the  valley  of  the  Truckee  and  overshadowed  by 
the  range  of  mountains  beyond.  The  railroad 
hjs  a  tvicnty-stall  roundhouse,  65  feet  deep,  with 
over  500  feet  of  circular  length.  The  machine 
shop  has  six  working  stalls  where  engines  are 
repaired,  and  is  75  by  130  feet.  Engines  are 
here  entirely  rebuilt.  At  one  end  of  this  shop  a 
piece  of  ground  has  been  fenced  in,  a  fountain 


w 


215 


the  spring 
le  right,  as 
valley  com- 
:y  waste  of 
8  across  the 
the  Carson, 
ills,  and  in 
•ks.  Build- 
pnt  in,  and 
I  stored  pre- 
face of  the 
e,  the  saline 
iting,  leaves 
e  sun.  The 
lar  evapora- 

cent.  pure. 
Bre  found  to 
I  now  dug  in 
1  into  them. 
!nt  quantity 
rawn  to  the 
is  ready  for 
ir  one  of  the 
lesert.  The 
it  are  those 
nes,  and  the 

beyond  our 
!an  see  the 
:  and  River. 
re  di-eary  as 

mcisco;  ele- 
ack,  rightly 

stop.  The 
sre  heap  the 
h  like  nufi^^ 
1  the  right 
;  hills,  while 
set  the  eye. 

the  plain; 
rive  at 
I  Francisco; 
e  mountain 
e  where  the 
own.  The 
ost  in  Pyra- 
l  in  a  snort 
o  the  valley 
green  trees 
man,  again 

San  Fran- 
a  little  vil- 
ed  down  in 
nadowed  by 
he  railroad 
t  deep,  with 
he  machine 
engines  are 
Engines  are 
this  shop  a 
a  fountain 


erected,  trees  planted,  and  alfalfa  and  blua-gras.s 
sown.  It  affords  a  refreshing  sight  to  the  me- 
chanics here  employed,  and  strangely  contrasts 
with  the  barren  desert  surrounding  the  place. 
The  engines  used  on  that  part  of  the  division 
between  Winnemucca  and  tnis  place,  have  very 
large  tenders,  the  tanks  in  them  holding  3,800 
gallons  of  water.  They  run  70  miles  without 
taking  water  on  the  line  of  the  road.  Other 
shops  for  the  convenience  of  the  read  are  located 
near  by.  The  huge  water  tank  in  which  water  is 
stored  for  use  of  shops  and  engines,  has  a  capacity 
of  60,000  gallons.  Hydrants  have  been  erected, 
connected  with  it  by  pipes,  and  hose  supplied  by 
which  the  water  may  be  quickly  applied  in  case 
of  fire,  to  any  part  of  the  buildings.  The  road 
passes  i.om  Wadsworth  to  Sacramento  through 
a  mountainous  region  of  country,  where  there  is 
plenty  of  timber  and,  hence,  wood  is  used  for 
fuel  on  the  engines  between  these  two  places. 
Between  Ogden  and  this  place  coal  taken  fiom 
the  mines  north  of  Evanston,  on  the  iJnion 
Pacific  Koad,  is  used.  West  of  Sacramento,  coal 
from  Oregon  and  Washington  Territory  is  used. 
Between  Wadsworth  and  Truckee  some  trouble 
has  been  experienced  with  snow,  and  in  some 
places  huge  boulders,  which  rolled  down  with 
the  snow,  have  been  knocked  out  of  the 
way  by  the  snowplows.  In  addition  to  the 
machine  shops,  there  are  a  large  freight  building 
and  other  offices  for  the  convenience  of  the 
company.  The  town  has  several  large  stores, 
hotels,  saJoons,  with  China  houses  aal  libitum, 
and  is  altogether  a  place  of  considerable 
trade.  Huge  freight  wagons,  from  two  to  four 
attached  together,  are  here  loaded  with  freight 
for  the  mining  districts  south.  These  large 
wagons,  with  their  teams  attached,  are  quite  a 
curiosity  to  Eastern  travelers,^  and  fully  illus- 
trate how  Western  men  do  their  freighting. 

The  following  mining  districts  did  business  at 
this  station  untU  the  extension  of  the  Carson  and 
Colorado  Railroad  from  the  Mound  House,  south, 
to  wit:  Columbus,  borax  mines,  130  miles  dis- 
tant; Teal's  Marsh,  borax  mines,  140  miles 
away;  the  Pacific  Borax  Works  are  20  miles 
southeast  of  Columbus  still;  the  Bellville  Min- 
ing District,  140  miles  distant.  In  this  district 
the  celebrated  Northern  Bell  Silver  Mine  is 
located,  also  the  General  Thomas  and  others  less 
prominent.  Silver  Peak  Mining  District  is  110 
miles  distant.  These  districts,  and  others  not 
named  here,  are  all  south  of  Wadsworth,  and 
from  this  point  1,272,380  pounds  of  crude 
borax  were  shipped  in  1880.  Rhodes'  Salt 
Marsh,  an  immense  salt  deposit,  is  about  130 
miles  distant.  There  is  salt  enough  in  this  de- 
posit to  preserve  the  world,  if  reports  as  to  its 
extent,  etc.,  prove  true. 

From  Wadsworth  to  Carson  Lake,  south,  the 
distance  is  about  40  miles.  This  lake  is  named 
from  the  river  of  the  same  name,  which  flows 


into,  or  rather  through  it.  Directly  south  of 
Carson  Lake  is  Walker  Lake,  into  which  flows 
Walker  River.  The  lake  last  named  has  no 
visible  outlet,  and  is  one  of  the  sinks  of  the 
great  basin  east  of  the  Sierras.  South  of  the 
railroad,  there  are  three  bodies  of  water  which 
travelers  wiU  more  fully  understaiid  by  an  ex- 
planation. Humboldt  Lake  proper,  into  which 
flows  the  Humboldt  River,  we  pass  at  Brown's 
Station.  A  little  southwest  of  this  lake  is  the 
Humboldt  and  Carson  Sink — the  waters  from 
the  lake  creeping  through  a  channel  or  slough 
into  the  nink.  The  dam  at  the  foot  of  the  huke 
is  across  this  out^  ;t  or  slough.  The  waters 
from  Carson  Lake,  flowing  nearly  east,  find 
their  -^/ay  into  this  sink  through  a  similar  out- 
let. Thus  the  waters  of  the  two  rivers,  the 
Humboldt  and  Carson,  :ach  flowing  through  a 
small  lake,  finally  meet  in  the  same  sink.  To 
this  sink  there  is  no  visible  outlet,  and  the  vast 
amount  of  water  which  is  poured  into  this 
boain  through  these  two  rivers  is  undoubtedly 
taken  up  on  its  way,  or  after  its  arrival  in  this 
common  sink,  by  evaporation. 

The  Humboldt  River,  though  it  has  a  length 
of  500  miles,  and  has  several  tributaries  con- 
stantly flowing  into  it,  yet  does  not  increase  in 
volume  throughout  its  length,  as  do  most 
rivers.  After  passing  Winnemucca  it  dimin- 
ishes to  a  small  stream,  finally  spreads  into  a 
marsh  and  "  sinks  "  out  of  sight. 

North  of  Wadsworth,  about  21  miles,  is  Pyr- 
amid Lake,  and  east  of  it,  separated  by  Laie 
Range  of  Mountains,  which  can  plainL  be  seen 
from  Wadsworth,  is  Winnemucca  Lake,  26 
miles  distant.  Both  of  them  are  sinks,  and 
have  no  visible  outlet.  Both  of  them  receive 
the  waters  of  Truckee  River,  and  the  latter  is 
said  to  be  rising — being  several  feet  higher  now 
than  it  was  ten  years  ago. 

Curiosities  of  Pyramid  Lake.— In  1867 
a  surveying  party  visited  this  lake,  which  they 
found  to  be  12  miles  long  and  30  miles  wide. 
The  lake  takes  its  name  from  a  remarkable  rock 
formation,  a  pyramid  which  towers  above  the 
lake  to  a  height  of  more  than  500  feet,  and  pre- 
sents in  its:  outlines  the  most  perfect  form.  Upon 
visiting  this  pyramid,  the  party  found  it  occupied 
with  teiiants  who  were  capable  of  holding  their 
ground  against  all  intruders. 

From  every  crevice  there  seemed  to  come  a  hiss. 
The  rattling,  too,  was  sharp  and  long-continued. 
The  whole  rock  was  alive  with  rattlesnakes. 
Even  in  the  party  those  who  had  been  champion 
snake  exterminators,  and  had  demolished  tnem 
on  all  previous  occasions,  now  found  the  combat 
beyond  their  jwwer  to  carry  on,  and  abandoned 
the  island  with  all  hope  of  victory. 

The  water  of  Pyramid  Lake  is  clear,  sparkling. 
In  it  are  said  to  be  fish,  principally  among  which 
is  the  couier,  very  sprightly,  with  flesh  the  color 
of  salmon.     The  weight  oi  the  fish  ranges  from 


i 


'1 


216 


iir 


three  to  twenty  pounds.     There  is  also  said  to 
be  an  abundance  of  trout. 

T/innemucca  Lake  is  also  stated  to  be  some 
200  feet  lower  than  Pyramid  Lake,  its  basin 
being  on  the  east  side  of  Lake  Bange  of  Moun- 
tains. The  Truckee  Biver  and  these  two  lakes 
are  great  resorts  for  ducks,  geese  and  pelicans. 
The  latter  aboiind  here  in  large  numbers  in  the 
spring.  An  island  in  Pyramid  Lake  is  a  great 
resort  for  them,  and  there,  undisturbed,  they 
rear  their  young.  These  birds  are  very  destruc- 
tive to  the  fish  of  the  river  and  lake.    They  will 


because  unable  to  get  out  of  the  way.  A  man 
with  a  club  could  kill  thousands  of  them  in  a 
day  without  much  difficulty. 

North  of  Pyramid  Lake  is  Mud  Lake,  another 
sink  of  this  great  basin,  and  a  little  northeast  of 
Winnemucca  Lake  is  the  sink  of  Quin's  Eiver 
and  other  streams.  In  fact,  they  lose  their 
identity  in  flowing  across  the  desert — are  swal- 
lowed up  by  the  thirsty  sands. 

On  the  north.  Pyramid  Lake  Mining  District 
is  fifteen  miles  away.  This  is  a  new  district, 
and  said  to  contain  good  "prospects."    Mud 


W^ 


PYRAMID  LAKR. 


stand  in  the  shallow  water  of  the  entrance  to 
the  lake  for  hours,  and  scoop  up  any  unwary 
fish  that  may  happen  to  pass  within  tlieiri-each. 
They  are  apparently  harmless,  and  of  no  earthly 
use  whatever.  The  huge  sacks  on  their  under 
jaws  are  used  to  carry  food  and  water  to  their 
young.  These  waddle  around  before  they  fly — 
a  shapeless,  uncouth  mass,  and  easily  destroyed 


Lake  District,  similar  in  character,  is  seventy- 
five  miles  due  north  from  Wadsworth.  Black 
Butte  District,  on  the  east  side  of  Winnemucca 
Lake,  is  about  twenty-eight  miles  distant. 

The  Piute  reservation,  or  rather  one  of  them, 
begins  about  seven  miles  north  of  the  town. 
The  reservation  house,  which  is  supposed  to  be 
the  place  where  the  government  officers  reside,  is 


T.  A  man 
them  in  a 

ce,  another 
ortheast  of 
lin's  Kiver 
lose  their 
-are  swal- 

ig  District 
w  district, 
ts."    Mud 


is  fleventy- 
th.  Black 
'iunemuoca 
stant. 

16  of  them, 

the  town. 

posed  to  be 

irs  reside,  is 


If  '  1 


SCENKS  ON  THE  TRUCKEE  RIVER.— Bt  Thomas  Morait. 

1.— Trackee  Meadows,  SierrM  in  the  dUunce.    2 Pleuant  Valley.    3.— Truckee  River,  near  Slalu  Line. 

4.— Red  Bluff,  Truckee  Rirar.    6.— Bridge  at  Eagle  Uao.    6.— Truokee  Kiver  Rapids. 


M 


218 


WMB  ^mClWiC  TQtmiSF. 


16  miles  away.  There  is  another  reservation  for 
these  Indians  south,  on  Walker  River.  They 
have  some  very  good  land  near  the  lake,  and 
eome  of  them  cultivate  the  soil, — raising  good 
crops. 

There  is  considerable  good  bottom-land  on  the 
Truckee  River,  between  Wadsworth  and  Pyra- 
mid Lake.  That  which  is  not  included  in  the 
Indian  reservation  is  occupied  by  stockmen  and 
farmers,  much  of  it  being  cultivated  and  pro- 
ducing excellent  crops  of  cereals  and  vegetables. 
The  experiments  thus  far  tried  in  fruit  gi-owing 
have  been  successful,  and  in  a  few  years  there 
will  be  a  home  supply  of  fruit  equal  to  home 
demand. 

The  arrival  at  Wadsworth  is  a  great  relief  to 
the  tourist  weary  with  the  dull,  unchanging . 
monotony  of  the  plains,  the  desert  and  bleak 
desolation  which  he  has  passed.  The  scenes  are 
now  to  change  and  another  miniature  world 
is  to  ojien  upon  his  view.  There  is  to  be 
variety — beauty,  grandeur  and  sublimity.  If 
he  enters  this  place  at  night,  the  following  day 
will  reveal  to  him  the  green  fields  and  magnifi- 
cent landscapes  of  California,  a'hd  in  less  than 
24  hours,  he  will  be  able  to  feast  his  greedy  eyes 
upon  a  glowing  sunset  on  the  Pacific  Coast. 

Leaving  Wadsworth  we  cross  the  Truckee 
River  and  gaze  with  delight  upon  the  trees,  the 
green  meadows,  the  comfortable  farm-hou»e,  and 
well-tilled  fields  of  the  ranche  on  our  left,  just 
across  the  bridge.  Like  everything  else  lovely 
in  this  world,  it  soon  fades  from  our  vision,  as 
we  rapidly  pass  into  the  Truckee  Canon.  The 
mountains  now  come  down  on  either  side  as 
tiiough  they  would  shake  hands  across  the  silver 
foirent  that  divides  them.  The  valley  larrows 
as  if  to  hasten  their  cordial  grasp,  and  to  remove 
all  obstacles  in  their  way.  Now  it  widens  a 
little  as  though  it  was"  not  exactly  certain 
whether  these  mountains  should  come  together 
or  not,  and  wanted  to  consider  the  matter.  But 
leaving  this  question  to  the  more  practical 
thoughts  of  our  readers,  we  hasten  on,  winding 
around  promontories  and  in  and  out  of  "draws  " 
and  ravines,  through  rocky  cuts,  and  over  high 
embankments  with  the  river  rolling  and  tumbling 
almost  beneath  our  feet,  and  the  ragged  peaks 
towering  high  above  us,  passing 

Salvia, — o.  simple  side  track,  six  miles  from 
Wadsworth.  Now  we  have  something  to  occupy 
our  attention ;  there  are  new  scenes  passing  by 
at  every  length  of  the  car,  and  we  have  to  looK 
sharp  and  quick,  or  many  of  them  will  be  lost 
forever.  Soon  we  make  a :  hort  turn  to  the  right, 
and  what  the  railroad  men  call  "  Red  Rock  "  ap- 
pears in  front,  then  to  our  right,  and  finally  over 
our  heads.  It  is  a  huge  mountain  of  lava  that 
has,  sometime,  in  the  ages  of  the  past,  been 
vomited  from  the  crater  of  some  volcano  now 
extinct ;  or  it  may  have  been  thrown  up  by  some 
mighty  couvulsiou  of  nature  that  fairly  shook 


the  rock-ribbed  earth  till  it  trembled  like  an  as- 
pen leaf,  and  in  which  these  huge  mountain  piles 
were  thrown  into  their  present  position.  Pres- 
ently, ami' 1st  the  grandeur  of  these  mountains, 
a  lovely  valley  bursts  upon  our  view.  We  have 
arrived  at  the  little  meadows  of  the  Truckee,  at 
a  station  called 

Clat'k% — 264  miles  from  San  Francisco,  with 
an  elevation  of  4,2^53  feet.  This  station  is  named 
from  a  former  proprietor  of  the  ranche  here.  It 
is  a  beautiful  place  with  mountains  all  around  it, 
and  the  only  way  you  can  see  out,  is  to  look  up 
toward  the  heavens.  The  narrow  bottom  on 
either  side  of  the  river  is  fenced  in,  producing 
excellent  crops  of  vegetables  and  hay,  and  afford- 
ing excellent  grazing  for  the  stock  that  is  kept 
here.  As  we  arrive  at  this  station,  we  pass 
tlirough  a  cut  of  sand  which  seems  just  ready  to 
become  stratified,  and  which  holds  itself  up  in 
layers,  in  the  sides  of  th?  cut.  Occasionally,  as 
we  look  over  the  nearer  peaks  in  front,  we  can 
catch  a  glimpse  of  the  snow-crowned  Sierras  in 
the  distance.  Now  a  creek  comes  in  from  a 
canon  on  our  left,  and  through  this  canon  is  a 
wagon  road  to  Virginia  City,  and  now  a  butte  is 
passed  between  us  and  the  river — the  river  being 
on  our  left  since  we  crossed  it  at  Wadsworth. 
There  are  a  few  ranches  scattered  along  its 
banks  where  vegetables  for  the  10,000  miners  at 
Virginia  City  are  grown.  The  mountains  we 
have  passed  are  full  of  variegated  streaks  of  clay 
or  mineral,  some  white,  some  red,  some  yellow, 
and  some  pale  green.  You  will  notice  them  as 
you  pass 

Vitttaf—25'2  mii?s  from  San  Francisco;  ele- 
vation, 4,403  feet.  We  are  going  up  hill  again. 
At  this  station  we  arrive  at  the  Truckee  Mead- 
ows. It  is  like  an  immense  amphitheatre,  and 
the  traveler  rejoices  again  in  the  presence  of 
farm-houses  and  cultivated  fields — in  the  scene 
of  beauty  that  spreads  out  before  him.  Beyond 
the  level  plain,  we  see  in  front  of  us  Peavine 
Mountain  and  at  the  base  of  the  hills  to  the 
farther  side  of  the  valley,  lies  Reno.  To  our  left 
Mt.  Rose  lifts  its  snow-covered  head ;  to  the  left 
of  Mt.  Rose  is  Slide  Mountain. 

Carious  Names  Given  by  Miners. — 
Placerville  was,  in  1849,  called  Hangtown  because 
H  was  the  first  place  where  any  person  was 
hanged  by  lynch-law. 

Tin  Cup  was  so  named,  because  the  first  miners 
there  found  the  place  so  rich  that  they  measured 
their  gold  in  pint  tin  cups. 

Pine  Ix)g  is  so  named  because  there  was  once 
a  pine  log  across  the  South  Fork  of  the  Stanis- 
laus River  in  such  a  position  as  to  offer  a  very 
convenient  crossing  to  miners. 

The  following  are  among  the  other  oddities 
which  have,  through  miners'  freaks  and  fancies, 
been  used  to  denote  settlements  and  camps  and 
diggings,  small  or  large : 

Jtm  Crow  Canon,  Gridiron  Bar. 


im 


219 


ike  an  as- 
itain  piles 
on.  Pres- 
nountains, 
We  have 
ruckee,  at 

Cisco,  with 
1  is  named 
i  here.    It 

around  it, 
to  look  up 
)ottom  on 
producing 
md  afford- 
at  is  kept 
,  we  pass 
st  ready  to 
self  up  in 
iionally,  as 
nt,  we  can 
Sierras  in 
in  from  a 
canon  is  a 
'  a  butte  is 
river  being 
/^adsworth. 

along  its 
)  miners  at 
mtains  we 
aks  of  clay 
me  yellow, 
ce  them  as 

icisco;  ele- 
hill  again. 
;kee  Mead- 
ieatre,  and 
iresence  of 

the  scene 
I.  Beyond 
18  Peavine 
ills  to  the 
To  our  left 

to  the  left 

\Iiner8,  — 

wn  because 
>erson  was 

first  miners 
y  measured 

e  was  once 
the  Stanis- 
affer  a  very 

er  oddities 
nd  fancies, 
camps  and 

ar. 


Red  Dog, 
Jackass  Gulch, 
Ladies'  Canon, 
Miller's  Defeat, 
Loafer  Hill, 
Rattlesnake  Bar, 
Whisky  Bar, 
Poverty  Hill, 
Greasers'  Camp^ 
Christian  Flat, 
Rough  and  Ready, 
Ragtown, 
Sugar-Loaf  Hill, 
Paper  Flat, 
Wild-Cat  Bar, 
Dead  Mule  Canon, 
Wild  Goose  Flat, 
Brandy  Flat, 
Yankee  Doodle, 
Horsetown, 
Petticoat  Slide, 
Chucklehead  Diggings, 
Plug  Head  Gulch, 
Ground  Hog's  Glory, 
Bogus  Thunder, 
Last  Chance, 
Greenhorn  Canon, 
Shanghai  Hill, 
Shirt-Tail  Canon, 
Skunk  Gulch, 
Coon  Hollow, 
Poor  Man's  Creek, 
Humbug  Canon, 
Quack  Hill, 
Nigger  Hill, 
Piety  Hill, 
Brandy  Gulch, 
Love-Letter  Camp, 
Blue  Belly  Ravine, 
Bhinbone  Peuk, 
Loafer's  Retreat, 
Bwellhead  Diggings, 
Poodletown, 
Gold  Hill, 
Centipede  Hollow, 
Seven-by-Nine  Valley, 


Hen-Koost  Camp, 
Ijousy  Ravine, 
Lazy  Man's  Canon, 
Logtown, 
Git-Up-aiid-Git, 
Gopher  Flat, 
Bob  Ridley  Flat, 
One  Eye, 
Push  Coach  Hill, 
Puppytown, 
Mad  Canon, 
Happy  Valley, 
Hell's  Deligirt, 
Devil's  Basin, 
Dead  Wood, 
Gouge  Eye, 
Puke  Ravine, 
Slap-Jack  Bar, 
Bloomer  Hill, 
Grizzly  Flat, 
Rat-Trap  Slide, 
Pike  Hill, 
Port  Wine, 
Snow  Point, 
Nary  Red, 
Gas' Hill, 
Ladies'  Valley, 
Graveyard  Canon, 
Gosi>el  Gulch, 
Chicken  Thief  Flat, 
Hungry  Camp, 
Mud  Springs, 
Skinflint, 
Pepper-Box  Flat, 
Seventy-Six, 
Hog's  Diggings, 
Liberty  Hill, 
Paradise, 
Sluice  Fork, 
Seven  Up  Ravine, 
Humpback  Slide, 
Coyote  Hill, 
American  liollow, 
Pancake  Ravine, 
Nutcake  Camp, 
Paint  Pot  Hill. 


Gospel  Swamp, 
Mcno  is  293  miles  from  San  Francisco,  situ- 
ated in  the  Truckee  Meadows,  the  junction  of 
the  Yirginia  and  Truckee  Railroad,  the  best 
point  of  departure  for  tourists  going  west  to 
visit  Lake  Tahoe.  The  Meadows,  about  fift(>en 
miles  long  and  eight  wide,  are  naturally  cov- 
ered with  sago  brush.  The  numerous  boulders 
which  also  strew  the  meadows,  are  built  into 
fences,  and  alfalfa  seed  sown  after  digging  out 
the  sage  brush,  and  rich  pasturage  results,  on 
which  sheep  thrive.  Eight  or  ten  tons  to  the 
acre  are  cut  in  a  single  season,  and  farms  make 
handsome  returns.  The  boulders  are  most 
numerous  along  the  river.  Beno  has  an  altitude 
of  4,607  feet,  and  although  a  railroad  town  only 


a  few  years  old,  is  destined  to  bo  the  prominent 
city  of  the  State.  It  was  named  in  honor  of 
the  fallen  hero  of  South  Mountain — has  now 
2,600  people,  and  is  a  county -seat  with  a  $30,000 
court-house,  and  is  the  gate  to  the  West  for  all 
the  State,  and  distributing  point  for  a  large 
portion  of  it.  It  has  outrun  Truckeo  in  com- 
peting for  the  trade  of  California,  east  of  the 
Sierras  and  among  the  beautiful  and  fertile 
valleys  north  of  the  railroad,  for,  from  Novem- 
ber to  May  Truckee  is  shut  in  by  deep  snows, 
and  its  roads  have  steeper  grades. 

Sierra  Valley,  tjie  Honey  Lake  Region,  Long 
Valley,  Camp  Bidwell  and  Goose  Lake  Region, 
Surprise  Valley,  Indian  Valley,  Winnemucca 
Valley,  the  Pitt  River  Country,  Fort  Warner 
nd  Southeastern  Oregon,  all  derive  their  sup- 
^jlies,  wholly  or  in  part,  on  wagons  from  this 
point.  It  is  the  healthiest  place  in  the  State 
and  has  the  most  stable  population,  being  sur- 
rounded with  an  agricultural  region. 

It  has  five  churches,  Congregational,  Metho- 
dist, Episcopal,  Baptist  and  Catholic,  and  a 
Young  Ladies'  Seminary  under  the  care  of 
Bishop  Whitaker,  of  the  Protestant  Episcopal 
Church.  This  is  the  most  extensive  and  suc- 
cessful school  of  the  kind  in  the  State.  The 
cost  of  the  enterprise  was  820,000,  of  which 
Miss  Wolfe,  of  New  York  City,  gave  half. 

Nevada,  by  a  State  law,  set  apart  one-fourth 
of  one  per  cent,  of  her  tax  for  a  building  fund, 
out  of  which  the  Capitol  was  erected  at  Carson 
City.  About  1^100,000,  since  accumulated,  has 
been  spent  on  a  State  prison,  the  completion  of 
which  is  yet  in  the  future.  The  massive  walls, 
about  400  feet  square,  have  been  standing  for 
several  years. 

Here  are  the  grounds  of  the  State  Agricultu- 
ral Society,  and  the  finest  speed-track  in  the 
State,  two  banks,  two  newspapers — the  Nevada 
State  Journal,  daily  and  weekly,  and  the 
Weekly  Plaindealer — and  several  factories,  a 
steam  fire  department  and  a  public  library. 

The  benevolent  orders  are  well  represented, 
the  Masons  and  Odd  Fellows  meeting  in  halls  of 
their  own.  There  are  two  hotels,  the  Railroad 
House,  which  is  well  kept,  and  the  Lake  House, 
on  the  bank  of  the  Truckee  River,  a  most  de 
sirable  place  for  a  few  days'  stay.  One  daily 
stage  leaves  for  Susanvillq,  via  Long  Valley, 
in  the  California  portion  of  the  Sierra  Nevadas, 
and  another  for  Fort  Bidwell  and  Surprise  Val- 
ley, via  Pyramid  Lake. 

The  Pea  Vine  District  is  nine  miles  north- 
west, and  about  1,500  feet  above  Beno,  in  which 
are  valuable  mines  of  dork  sulphuret  ore — the 
basest  work  on  the  coast,  and  worked  success- 
fully only  of  late  by  the  O'Hara  process. 

The  Nevada  and  Oregon  Railroad  Company 
have  organized  to  build  a  narrow  gauge  (3  feet) 
road  from  a  point  at  or  near  Aurora,  Esmeralda 
County,  Nev.,  to  a  point  at  or  near  Qoose  Lake 


'■•1  )M 


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FMS  ^^CiFIQ  TOtmiST. 


WINTEU  FOREST  SCENE  IN  THE  SIERRA  NEVADAS. 

IIV  TnoMAS  MORAN. 


T 


221 


in  Oregon,  and  have  commenced  building  from 
Bene  in  the  direction  of  Oregon.  Tliifl  road 
will  run  through  a  part  of  Long  Valley,  and 
take  the  freight  that  in  now  carried  on  wagons 
to  Northeastern  California  and  Southern  Oregon. 
George  L.  Woods  is  President;  George  A. 
King,  Vice-President,  and  S.  C.  Scoville,  Sec- 
retary.   The  general  offices  are  all  at  Reno. 

VIBGIXIui  AND  TRUCKEE  It.  B. 

D.  O.  MniiiS,  President  -  -  San  Francisco, 
H.  M.  Yerrinoton,  V.-Pr.  &G.  Supt.  Carson. 
W.  M.  Thobnton,  Secretary  -  -  Carson. 
D.  A:  Bekdeb,  (Jen.  Fr.  &  Pas.  Agt.    -  Carson. 

Leaving  Reno,  the  Red  Mountain  District  is 
seen  on  tlie  east,  and  the  Washoe  Uaiige  with 
Mount  Rose,  8,200  feet  high,  on  the  west,  and 
soon  tlie  cars  pass  a  flume,  1")  miles  long,  owned 
by  Flood  &  O'Brien,  running  through  a  long 
canon  to  Evans  Creek  to  convey  lumber  to 
the  railroad.  HufFaker's  is  six  and  one-half 
miles  from  Reno,  the  terminus  of  the  Pacific 
Wood,  Lumber  and  Flume  Company's  flume. 
The  next  stopping  jwint  is  called 

Srown*M, — and  is  the  termirusof  the  Eldo- 
rado Flume,  owned  by  the  Virginia  &  Truckee 
Railroad  Company.  This  flume  starts  in  White's 
Canon,  and  is  about  six  miles  long.  The  first 
important  station  is 

Steamboat  Spritiffs, — 11  miles  south  of 
Reno.  They  consist  of  many  springs  in  two  dis- 
tinct groups,  those  of  each  group  apparently  con- 
nected with  each  other.  Their  escaping  steam 
may  be  seen  near  the  station  on  the  rise  t<i  the 
right  of  the  road,  and  the  fissures,  through  which 
the  water  of  212"  Fahrenheit  gurgles  up,  vary 
from  a  narrow  crack  to  a  foot  in  width.  For- 
merly they  were  more  active  than  now,  yet  at 
times  they  spout  the  water  to  a  height  of  ten  feet. 
Sulphur  abounds  in  the  water,  and  remarkable 
cures  of  rheumatism  and  cutaneous  diseases  have 
been  effected,  but  no  reliable  analysis  of  the 
water  has  been  made. 

The  hotel  is  a  popular  resort,  kept  in  first- 
class  style  with  accommodations  for  fifty  guests. 

Steamboat  Springs  are  fast  becoming  famous 
for  mines  of  cinnabar  and  sulphur,  of  both  of 
which  this  region  seems  to  be  full.  Much  of  the 
sulphur  is  pure  and  beautifully  crystallized.  Cin- 
nabar is  found  between  strata  of  lava. 

The  railroad  crosses  Steamboat  Creek,  the  out- 
let for  Washoe  Lake,  and  then  enters  Steamboat 
Valley,  which  contains  about  6,000  acres  of  good 
soil  with  some  natural  meadow  at  the  upper 
end. 

South  of  Steamboat  Valley  is  Washoe  Valley, 
which  is  entered  by  passing  through  a  narrow 
gorge  with  large  conglomerate  rocks,  weather- 
beaten  into  castellated  form.  Emerging  from 
the  canon,  ons  is  in 

Washoe  City, — 5  3-4  miles  from  Steamboat ; 
it  has  a  few  dilapidated  houses.    Mount  Rose, 


oyer  8,000  feet  high,  eternally  snow-capped,  is 
directly  opposite  the  lower  end  of  the  valley. 

On  the  left  of  the  track  may  be  seen  theniinB 
of  the  old  Ophir  Mill — whose  Superintendent 
was  honored  with  a  salary  of  830,000  per  an- 
num and  a  furnished  liouse,  while  the  mill 
employed  165  men. 

Oq  'the  left,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains 
overlooking  the  beautiful  lake  and  \  alley,  is 
Bower's  Mansion — the  favorite  resort  for  picnics 
from  Carson  and  Virginia  City. 

Franktown — i^  miles  from  Washoe,  is  an 
old  Mormon  colony,  the  terminus  of  another 
flume,  and  was  the  first  place  settled  in  this  reg- 
ularly formed  and  picturesque  valley,  twelve 
miles  long  by  seven  wide.  The  long  promonto- 
ries from  the  mountain  side  are  denuded  of 
timber,  but  numerous  ice-cold  crystal  streams 
come  down  from  the  mountain  side,  and  the 
valley  produces  considerable  grain  and  fruit,  and 
supports  no  little  stock. 

yiUl  StatioH — 3  miles  from  Franktown,  la 
an  old  miU  site  at  the  upper  end  of  the  valley, 
from  which  Washoe  Lake,  ten  miles  lon^  and 
six  wide,  may  be  clearly  seen.  Here  is  the 
end  of  still  another  flume  for  lumber  and 
wood;  next  is  Eagle  Valley,  reached  by  a  short 
tunnel. 

At  the  divide  between  Washoe  and  Eagle 
Valleys,  the  railroa^l  crosses  the  IVattr  Syphon, 
which  conducts  the  pure  water  from  the  west 
side  of  the  Sierras  through  this  great  depression 
toward  Virginia  City,  Gold  Hill  and  Silver  City. 
One  million  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand 
pounds  of  rolled  iron  are  found  in  nearly  seven 
miles  of  ijipe.  Each  joint  of  pipe,  twenty-six 
feet  long,  when  at  a  temperature  of  380  degrees 
Fahrenheit,  was  dipped  into  asphaltum  and 
coal  tar.  A  million  rivets  and  62,000  pounds 
lead  were  used  in  constructing  the  syphon. 
The  water  is  taken  from  Dall's  Creek,  in  an  18- 
inch  flume,  four  miles  long,  then  received  by 
the  iron  pipe  at  a  point  2,100  feet  above  the 
railroad.  It  ascends  on  the  east  side  l,540feet, 
and  is  discharged  into  a  flume  that  conducts  it 
to  the  reservoir  above  the  cities  in  which  it  is 
used.  Through  the  12-inch  orifice  of  the  pipe, 
2,0(X),000  gallons  can  pass  daily.  The  whole 
cost  was  $750,000,  and  the  enterprise  is  aa 
achievement  of  which  the  whole  State  is  proud. 

Lake  View — 2  miles  from  Mill  Station, 
commanding  the  finest  view  of  Washoe  Lake, 
the  railroad  crosses  the  large  water  pipe  which 
supplies  Virginia  City  from  a  lake  on  the  west- 
ern summit  of  the  Sierras,  above  Lake  Tahoe. 
Washoe  and  Eagle  Valleys  almost  join,  and  on 
entering  the  latter,  Carson  City  and  the  State 
Capitol  are  seen  below. 

Carson  City  is  21  miles  from  Virginia 
City.  It  was  settled  in  1858,  by  Major  Omsby 
and  others,  has  a  population  of  4,000,  is  regu- 
larly laid  out,  the  streets  coinciding  with  Uie 


-  n    . 

1i 


rl' 


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222 


FMM  pm€iFi€  F@¥Mi§F. 


if 


cardinal  points  of  the  compass.  Shade  trees, 
the  U.  S.  Mint,  the  Capitol,  Court-house,  and 
some  neat  private  residences,  four  churches 
(Presbyterian,  Methodist,  Episcopalian  and  Cath* 
die),  the  best  school-house  in  the  State,  and  good 
society,  make  it  one  of  the  most  desirable  places 
-  for  residence  in  Nevada.  It  lias  two  daily  papers, 
tha  Appeal  and  Tribune.  It  is  the  center  of  a 
larpre  trade  for  all  parts  of  South-western  Nevada 
and  Mono  and  Inyo  Counties  of  California. 

It  has  three  good  hotels,  the  general  offices  and 
workshops  of  the  Virginia  &  Iruckee  Railroad. 

The  railroad  from  Carson  City  to  Virginia 
City,  is  often  spoken  of  as  the  Crooked  Railroad, 
so  lull  is  it  of  curves  and  windings.  There  are 
many  curves  on  it  of  14",  and  one  of  19'',  and  on 
one  portion  of  it  for  16  miles,  there  is  a  contin- 
uous grade  of  90  feet  to  the  mile.  This  is  believed 
to  be  the  road  of  wbioh  it  is  said  that  an  en* 
gineer,  badly  frighten9v>  at  the  approach  of  a 
red  light,  jumped  from  his  engine  and  soon  saw 
that  he  had  been  scared  by  the  rear  end  of  his 
own  train.  It  is  fifty-one  and  three-quarter  miles 
long,  and  has  35  miles  of  side  track.  Forty  to 
fifty  trains  daily  pass  over  it,  and  it  is  probably 
the  best  paying  railroad  in  the  country. 

Stages  leave  Carson  for  points  in  Southern 
Nevada  and  into  California  as  follows :  To 
Monitor,  46  miles ;  Silver  Mountain,  54  miles  ; 
Bishop's  Creek,  192  miles  ;  Benton,  150  miles ; 
Sweetwater,  73  miles ;  A  urora,  105  miles ;  Bodie, 
119  miles;  Mariette,  145  miles;  Belleville,  155 
miles  ;  Candelaria,  165  miles  ;  Columbus,  173 
miles ;  Silver  Peak,  228  miles  ;  Independence,  234 
miles  ;  Lone  Pine,  252  miles  ;  Cerro  Gordo,  274 
miles.  The  usual  fare  is  15  cents  per  mile.  For 
Lake  Tahoe,  Benton  stage  line  runs  to  Glen- 
brook,  and  there  connects  with  steamer  across 
lake,  and  stages  thence  to  Truckee  and  Summit. 

The  Sutro  Tunnel,  one  of  the  mining  wonders 
of  Nevada,  commences  on  the  Carson  Biver, 
not  far  distant,  and  bores  into  the  mountains  a 

Passage  fourteen  feet  wide  and  ten  feet  high, 
'he  main  tunnel  is  completed  20,000  feet, 
reaching  directly  to  the  mines  at  Virginia  City, 
and  affording  not  only  a  perfect  outlet  for  the 
water  of  the  mines,  but  giving  excellent  ventila- 
tion and  a  cheap  way  of  removing  the  ore. 
Probably  the  greatest  venture  in  risks  of  any 
enterprise  in  the  world,  just  opened  for  use. 

Several  stations  beyond  Carson  attract  atten- 
tion, principally  because  of  quartz  mills  con- 
nected. Lookout,  2%  miles;  Lmpire,  \%  miles; 
at  Morgan  is  the  Morgan  Mill;  at  Brunswick 
and  Merrimack  are  others.  The  road  ascends 
above  the  river  gradually,  and  just  beyond 
Eureka  ia  seen  the  first  view  of  Mouul  Davidson. 

Mound  House  is  1^  miles  from  the  Eureka 
Dump.  Along  here  the  road  is  without  curves 
for  a  lew  hundred  feet — a  long  distance  for  such 
a  crooked  road  as  this.  Mound  House  is  the 
junction  of  this  railroad  with  the 


CABSON  AND  COLORADO  B.  B, 

The  officers  of  this  are  the  same  as  those  of 
the  Virginia  and  Truckee  Boad.  The  line  is  a 
8-foot  narrow-gauge,  laid  with  steel  rails  and 
red-wood  ties,  and  equipped  with  first-class 
rolling  stock.  The  route  is  lonely,  yet  interest- 
ing. It  descends  to  the  Carson  Biver,  crossing 
at  Dayton,  a  small  town  six  miles  from  the 
Mound  House,  the  location  of  several  ore-re- 
duction works,  and  three  miles  from  the  mouth 
of  the  great  Sutro  Tunnel.  From  Dayton  the 
line  follows  the  Carson  River  to  Churchill 
Canon,  and  then  follows  Mason  Valley,  through 
which  Walker  Biv^er  fiows;  in  which  valley,  at 
the  time  of  undertaking  the  road,  a  few  widely 
scattered  ranches  were  the  only  signs  of  civil- 
ization for  150  miles.  Excepting  this  valley, 
which  is  for  Nevada  a  lai'ge  and  productive 
farming  district,  the  road  was  built  through  a 
howling  wilderness  of  sage  brush.  The  river 
ia  crossed  twice.  Old  Fort  Churchill  stands 
like  a  lone  sentinel,  to  awaken  recollections  of 
the  army  officers  and  men  who  endured  its 
isolation  and  hardships.  "Walker  Biver  empties 
into  Walker  Lake,  a  truly  magnificent  sheet  of 
water  twenty-five  miles  long,  and  from  five  to 
nine  miles  wide.  The  sight  of  any  body  of 
water  is  good  in  such  a  land  as  this,  and  espe- 
cially such  a  beautiful  lake  as  this.  It  is  usually 
as  smooth  as  a  mirror  and  a?  blue  as  the  sky. 
It  stands  a  lovely  contrast  with  its  barren  sur- 
roundings of  desolate  plains  and  dusky  moun- 
tains. Its  waters  are,  however,  more  beautiful 
to  the  eye  than  refreshing  to  the  thirsty  mouth 
— for  they  are  heavily  impregnated  with  soda, 
and  unfit  to  drink.  The  view  of  the  lake  on 
the  left— as  the  train  passes  along  the  south  side 
the  whole  distance  of  the  lake — is  unobstruct- 
ed, because  the  only  trees  on  its  border  are  a 
clump  of  willows  at  the  lake.  But  the  lake 
abounds  with  large  trout.  These  are  caught  in 
great  quantities  by  the  Indians. 

llawtlutnie — 'lyi  mil^s  from  the  lake,  was 
l)>im  of  the  enterprise,  and  for  some  months 
was  the  terminus  of  the  road,  and  an  important 
stage  station.  Hawthorne  is  the  depot  of  sup- 
plies for  AuBOBA,  twenty-six,  and  Bodie,  the 
famous  mining  camp  in  Mino  C«uuty,  Califor- 
nia, thirty-seven  miles. 

Camlelaria — 50  miles  from  Hawthorne  and 
150  from  the  Mound  House,  is  the  present  ter- 
minus, but  the  road  is  pushing  southward  to 
the  Colorado  Biver. 

Diverging  stage  lines  of  the  United  States 
Stage  Company  leave  doily  on  arrival  of  the 
trains  for  Aurora,  Bodie,  Bellville,  Columbus, 
Belmont,  Silver  Peak,  Montezuma,  Alida  Val- 
ley, Qold  Mountain  (State  Line  Mines),  Benton, 
Bishop  Creek  and  Independence. 

Gold  Hill. — ^As  the  traveler  approaches,  ho 
sees  evidences  of  mining  in  every  direction— 


TMg  iMciric  To^aisr. 


M 


i   M,    Urn 

\a  thoBo  of 
le  line  is  a 
1  roils  and 

first-clasH 
Dt  interest- 
r,  crossing 
1  from  tho 
Bral  ore-re- 
the  mouth 
)ayton  the 

Churchill 
(y,  through 
1  valley,  at 
few  widelv 
ns  of  civil- 
this  valley, 
productive 
I  through  a 

The  river 
hill  stands 
Uections  of 
indured  its 
ver  empties 
mt  sheet  of 
rom  five  to 
ly  body  of 
1,  and  espe- 
It  is  usutuly 

as  the  sky. 
jarren  sur- 
isky  moun- 
re  beautiful 
irsty  mouth 

with  soda, 
the  lake  on 
e  south  side 
unobstruct- 
order  ore  a 
ut  the  lake 
:e  caught  in 

le  lake,  was 
me  months 
n  important 
jpot  of  sup- 
BODIE,  tho 
aty,  Califor- 

wthome  and 
present  ter- 
>uthward  to 

nited  States 
rival  of  tho 
Columbus, 
,,  AUda  Val- 
.es),  Benton, 

)roaches,  ho 
direction — 


abandoned  shafts,  puffing  engines,  smoke  issu- 
:ng  from  gigantic  8^•loks,  hugo  mounds  of  earth 
dumped  from  the  end  of  high  trestlo-work,  the 
capacious  buildings  and  tiie  posts  and  stuuus  that 
mark  the  undeveloped  claims,  or  tlie  loaded  ore, 
need  no  explanation  as  to  their  origin  or  pur- 
pose. 

Gold  Hill  follows  the  ravine  of  the  same  name, 
and  the  street  is  both  steep  and  crooked.  It  has 
a  population  of  0,000  and  is,  in  all  respects,  like 
Vu'ginia  City,  The  two  are  built  up  so  as  to  be 
witnout  marked  separation.  Gold  Ilill  has  a 
vigorous  daily  paper,  the  "  Gold  Hill  News,"  a 
Catholic,  a  Methodist,  and  an  Episcopal  Church. 


a  great  credit  to  the  city  and  the  land  of  sil- 
ver. Its  narrow  streets,  show  with  what  diffi- 
culty sites  are  obtained  for  buildings,  whether 
anchored  to  the  rocks  or  perched  in  mid-air,  and, 
while  in  the  city  but  little  of  it  is  visible  at  a 
time,  the  dwellings  are  mostly  low,  and,  there- 
fore, unstable  roofs  do  less  damage  when  the 
Washoe  zephyrs  blow.  It  appears  small,  but  is 
the  most  densely  packed  of  all  American  cities. 
One-third  its  people  are  underground,  where 
lighted  candles  glimmer  faintly  in  subterranean 
passages,  by  day  and  by  night.  Bedrooms  do 
double  duty  for  hundreds  or  thousands,  whose 
work  never  ceases.    Miners  are  shifted  every  eight 


STREET  SCBIB   IN  VIBOINIA  CITY,  NEVADA. 


Virginia  City  and  Gold  Hill  are  connected  by  a 
Bne  oi  omnibusses,  making  four  trips  every  hour 
during  the  day,  while  the  frequent  trains  of  the 
railroad  carry  also  many  passengers.  By  rail 
the  distance  to  Virginia  City  is  two  miles,  in 
which  several  tunnels  are  passed  through. 

Virginia  City — is  one  of  the  most  interesting 
towns  on  the  coast.  One  expects  streets  of  gold 
and  silver,  and  finds  dust  or  mud.  On  October 
26, 1875,  it  was  almost  wholly  destroyed  by  fire, 
but  the  burnt  district  has  "been  rebuilt  more 
handsomely  than  ever.  Its  population  now 
exceeds  20,000.  A  first-class  hotel.  The  In- 
ternational, has  been  erected,   in    all    respects 


hours,  and  the  men  of  two  shifts  may  occupy  the 
same  couch. 

On  many  levels,  down  2,000  feet,  are  thousands 
of  busy,  bustling,  narrow  streets,  over  which  is 
the  city  proper.  Tide-water  is  6,205  feet  below 
the  banks,  and  perhaps  it  is  best  that  it  is  no 
nearer,  for  now  pumps  are  constructed  to  raise 
the  water  to  the  surface  from  3,000  to  5,000  feet 
below,  onl*seven  of  which  are  capable  of  raising 
4,000  galRms  every  minute. 

Dwellings  on  the  side-hill  overlook  one  another 
without  any  appearance  of  aristocratic  preten- 
sions, and  steps  and  foot-ladders  are  continually 
at  hand. 


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224 


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The  Btreots  present  a  busy  api>earanoe  with 
men  of  ail  cliiHHeM,  and  occasionally  women,  watch- 
ing the  indicator  of  the  San  trancisco  stock- 
market  as  anxiously  as  u  cambler  reduced  to  the 
"  bed  rock  "  watches  for  the  playing  of  the  hand 
against  him. 

Saloons  are  numerous  and  crowded,  and  pro- 
fanity fearfully  prevalent. 

It  IS  a  city  of  extremes  in  prices,  speculations, 
character,  activity,  enterprise,  debauchery  and 
home  life.  The  rich  and  the  penniless  are  side 
by  side.  Every  notion  and  mot  is  advocated — 
every  nation  represented  by  the  worst  and  best 
of  the  race — except  the  horrible  Celestial,  who  is 
always  called  bad,  but  is  even  somewhat  like 
"  the  Englishman  of  character  and  the  English- 
man of  no  character  to  speak  of."  The  lazy 
Indians  that  lounge  about  the  street,  rich  with  a 
loaf  of  bread,  a  blanket,  a  string  of  beads  and 
some  feathers,  are  no  poorer  than  hundreds  who 
will  have  nothing  until  they  sober  up,  and  at  the 
v<ther  end  are  the  owners  ot  wealth  incomprehen- 
sible by  any  system  of  counting — all  glittering 
and  golden-nued  in  a  vast  firmament  of  riches, 
as  great  as  the  reality  of  idlest  dreams.  Here 
the  world  has  seen,  not  one,  but  at  least  four, 
richer  than  Croesus;  with  lamps,  rings  and  slaves 
better  than  Aladdin's;  four  Bonanza  kings,  each 
with  a  mountain  of  treasure  greater  to  carry  than 
the  horrible  Old  Man  of  the  Sea,  but  which  no 
modern  Sinbad  would  shake  off  with  delight. 

One  says,  "  The  gods  here  worshiped  are 
heathen  deities,  Mammon,  Bacchus  and  Venus. 
The  temples  are  brokers'  offices,  whisky  shops, 
gambling  hells  and  brothels.  There  is  wonder- 
ful enterprise,  much  intelligence,  some  refine- 
luent,  not  a  little  courtesy,  and  a  sea  :  t  «in." 

The  view  from  the  city  is  pictures  |ri  j  md 
sorrowfully  beautiful.  Oft  to  the  south  ;>,iul  east 
the  eye  ranges  over  a  waste  of  sage  b"u«'i,  and 
the  face  of  the  whole  country  appi'tiis  hke  the 
waves  of  an  angered  sea,  broken  the  more  be- 
cause they  can  go  no  farther. 

The  Carson  River  can  be  seen  stretching  off 
toward  its  sinking  place  in  arid  sands,  and  the 
twenty-six  mile  desert  will  deceive  the  unthink- 
ing, and  add  a  faint  lake-like  look  to  the  picture, 
of  which  the  Walker  and  Sweetwater  Ranges  and 
endless  mountains'  rosy  light  and  heaven's  blue 
dome,  all  add  their  beauty. 

But  to  enjoy  the  best  view,  make  the  ascent  of 
Mount  Davidson,  about  1,627  feet  above  the  city, 
and  nearly  8,000  feet  high.  One  need  not  climb, 
but  may  ascend  it  on  horseback  by  following  up 
the  ravine  from  Gold  Canon.  When  he  reaches 
what  seems  from  the  street  to  be  the  top  of  the 
mountain,  he  sees  another  summit  as  far  beyond, 
but  the  latter  gained  the  view  is  magnificent. 

Below,  on  the  west,  is  a  beautiful  lake  two  or 
three  miles  in  diameter,  "glistening  like  the 
silver  of  the  mountains  which  it  covers."  Reno, 
the  Carson  Valley,  valleys,  mountains,  rivers, 


lakes,  and  deserts  may  be  Men  in  every  directidi 
for  a  hundred  miles. 

Or,  if  it  is  too  fatiguing  to  ascend,  whoever  ii 
the  fortunate  possessor  of  a  note  of  introductiou 
to  some  milling  superintendent,  may  prepare  fo\ 
a  visit  to  the  world  below.  Donning  brogaiii^, 
woolen  socks  and  coarse  Haniicls,  he  will  step  oii 
the  cage,  liolding  his  breath,  his  heart  feelini; 
gone,  and  as  tlie  water  drips  around  him  down 
the  shaft,  his  feeble  lantern  will  not  '•emove  th'- 
queer  sensation  of  the  descent.  Once  below, 
tnere  are  cuts,  and  cross-cuts,  drifts,  winzes, 
stopes  and  a  maze  of  strange  words,  sights  and 
sounds.  Here  is  explained  the  use  of  thu 
squared  timbers  seen  uy  the  car  load,  passing 
from  the  Sierras  to  Virginia  Citv.  As  worthle.xs 
rock  or  treasured  ore  is  removed,  the  excavation 
must  be  replaced  almost  as  solid  as  the  rock  it- 
self. The  huge  timbers  are  mortised  and  fittt'ii 
to  each  other  witli  the  utmost  precision ;  ladders 
lead  from  level  to  level.  Cars  convey  the  ore  to 
the  shaft,  and  up  and  down  the  busy  cages  ar»! 
always  going.  Every  minute  a  loaded  car  a«- 
cends  from  a  quarter  of  a  mile  below  and  is  n'- 
placed  by  another.  The  engineer  tells  by  an 
indicator  the  precise  location  of  the  cage  at  anv 
moment,  and  by  varying  the  signals  to  him,  lie 
directs  the  movements  for  passengers  with  greatly 
decreased  speed. 

If  time  permits,  ride  over  to  the  Sutro  Tunnel, 
six  miles  from  Virginia  City.  It  once  promistd 
well,  may  benefit  the  Comstock  Lode  more  than 
its  friends  have  ever  dreamed,  but  from  preseni, 
appearances  the  real  contest  concerning  it,  wu-* 
not  in  Congress,  nor  opposition  from  the  mines 
it  aims  to  tap,  but  has  yet  to  come.  As  n 
specimen  of  engineering  it  will  repay  a  visit. 
With  indomitable  energy  it  is  pushed  forward, 
and  has  now  penetrated  nearly  three  milts. 
The  average  progress  is  90  feet  per  week,  ami 
tunneling  was  never  done  elsewhere,  more  speed- 
ily or  successfully. 

Mines  of  Virginia  City.— The  discovery 
of  the  Comstock  Lode,  was  made  in  1857,  l>y 
men  in  pursuit  of  gold  placers.  They  canif 
upon  some  mineral  new  to  them,  which  a  Mex- 
ican recognized  as  silver  ore.  Comstock  at  an 
early  day,  was  a  middle-man  in  the  purchase  of  an 
interest  in  the  lode,  and  his  name  thus  becani - 
attached  to  it.  As  explorations  were  made,  very 
rich  ore  was  found  near  the  surface,  and  soon  a 
great  excitement  was  created,  and  vigorous  oper- 
ations commenced,  which  were  crowned  with 
wonderful  success.  The  Ophir  Mine,  and  tli-; 
Gould  &  Curry,  at  an  early  day  began  to  pay 
dividends,  and  continued  to  do  so  without  inter- 
ruption for  several  years.  The  Savage  and  th^ 
Hale  &  Norcross  were  later  in  becominj? 
known,  and  their  period  of  prosperity  continuod 
after  the  others  had  gone  into  decline.  Thesi' 
are  all  Virginia  City  Mines.  The  Kentuck 
Crown  Point,  Yellow  Jacket,  ChoUar    Potosi 


and  Belcher, 

others  le.4H 

Neither  of  tl 

the  Ophir  a 

discoverers  c 

miners  say,  t 

notice  of  clai 

copy  with   til 

The  regulatic 

differed  slig! 

not  over  2,()(M 

could  be  local 

claim  over  2( 

ing  usually  al 

Under  the  r 

no  single  clai 

whatever  nun 

discoverer  is  i 

Feet  in  lengt 

and  und  ;sto< 

angles,  that  i 

they  more  or 

are  usually  on 

extend   miles 

has  been  trace 

breadth  so  fai 

400  feet,  and  i 

Nevada  appro 

worked  which 

days  dealings 

shares.     Tha  ( 

for  instance,  a 

the  foot.     An 

teenth  of  the 

feet  was  abam 

in,  and  those 

orde:'  to  bring 

persons  of  sir 

been  divided 

sented  by  se' 

tions  of  all  tl 

stock  Lode,  ai 

San  Franciscc 

ately  over  anc 

stock  in  then 

"  The  Bay." 

In  the  deve 
distinct  perioc 
after  its    disi 
tended  opera 
length,  and  of 
named  above 
ments  were  m 
900  feet  of 
along  the    w 
assessments 
sion  followed 
exploration  r 
a  rich  ore  bo( 
Mines,  which 
hitiierto  unex 
dividends  am 


f' 


FMM  ^stCiFia  F^^sisr. 


225 


r       I 


and  BelchtM-,  which  liiivo  all  paid  dividends  and 
others  ie.s8  widely  known,  are  in  Gold  Hill. 
Neither  of  them  bectinie  Huccessful  as  early  as 
tlje  Ophir  and  Gould  &  Curry.  The  original 
diHCOverers  of  these  mines  "  located  "  them,  as 
miners  say.  that  is,  posted  uj^n  the  property  a 
notice  of  claim  in  writing,  of  which  they  filed  a 
copy  with  the  recorder  of  the  mining  district. 
The  regulations  in  reference  to  locating  claims 
diifered  slightly  in  different  districts.  Usually 
not  over  2,000  feet  along  the  length  of  a  vein 
could  be  located  in  one  claim,  and  no  one  could 
claim  over  200  feet  except  the  discoverer,  he  be- 
ing usually  allowed  300,  and  sometimes  400  feet. 
Under  the  present  United  States  Mining  Law 
no  single  claim  for  over  1,500  feet  can  be  made, 
whatever  number  of  persons  join  in  it,  and  the 
discoverer  is  accorded  no  advantage  over  otliers. 
Feet  in  length  along  a  vein,  are  always  stated 
and  und  ;  stood  to  carry  all  its  depth,  spurs  and 
angles,  that  is,  its  whole  breadth  and  depth  be 
they  more  or  less,  for  the  length  claimed.  Veins 
are  usualli^  only  a  few  feet  wide,  but  sometimes 
extend  miles  in  length.  The  Comstock  Lode 
has  been  traced  for  five  miles,  but  its  greatest 
breadth  so  far  as  yet  known,  is  between  300  and 
400  feet,  and  no  other  silver  vein  in  the  State  of 
Nevada  approaches  it  in  breadth,  and  some  are 
worked  wnich  do  not  exceed  6  inches.  In  early 
days  dealings  in  mines  were  by  feet,  and  not  by 
shares.  Tha  Oplnr  Mine  comprised  1,400  feet 
for  instance,  and  was  sold  on  the  stock-board  by 
the  foot.  An  owner  of  100  feet  owned  a  four- 
teenth of  the  mine.  Gradually  the  selling  by 
feet  was  abandoned,  and  only  shares  were  dealt 
in,  and  those  have  been  divided  up  very  small,  in 
order  to  bring  speculation  within  the  compass  of 
persons  of  small  means.  The  Ophir  Mine  has 
been  divided  so  that  each  original  foot  is  repre- 
sented by  seventy-two  shares.  The  incorpora- 
tions of  all  the  mining  companies  on  the  Com- 
stock Lode,  and  their  offices  have  always  been  in 
San  Francisco,  and  the  men  who  live  immedi- 
ately over  and  about  the  mine,  cannot  buy  or  sell 
stock  in  them  except  by  letter  or  telegraph  to 
"  The  Bay." 

In  the  development  of  this  mineral  lode,  three 
distinct  periods  may  be  marked.  For  some  time 
after  its  discovery,  prosperity  continually  at- 
tended operations  on  it  somewhere  along  its 
length,  and  often  at  all  points.  All  the  mines 
named  above  paid  dividends,  and  very  few  assess- 
ments were  made.  The  ore  lying  within  800  or 
900  feet  of  the  surface  was  finally  exhausted 
along  the  whole  vein,  and  dividends  fell  off, 
assessments  became  frequent,  and  great  depres- 
sion followed.  This  continued  until  patient 
exploration  revealed,  several  hundred  feet  d<.  iper, 
a  rich  ore  body,  in  the  Crown  Point  and  Belcher 
Mines,  which  produced  an  amount  of  bullion 
hitiierto  unexampled  in  the  history  of  the  vein, 
diTidends  amounting  to  a  million  a  month  com- 


ing several  months  in  succession.  This  body  o( 
ore  was  worked  out  in  time,  and  depression  fol- 
lowed again.  The  total  yield  of  all  thn  mines 
of  Nevada  for  the  last  six  years  has  been 
«176.734,150. 

The  Big  Bonanza  Mines.— In  the  days  of 

their  greatness,  tlio  Consolidated  Virginia 
end  the  California  divided  each  $1,080,000 
monthly  for  many  months.  During  1875, 
and  the  first  throe  months  of  1876,  the 
bullion  receipts  of  the  Consolidated  Virginia 
company  were  twenty-four  million  eight  him- 
dred  and  fifty  thousanil,five  hundred  and  twenty- 
tour  dollars  and  einhtij-J'our  cents,  ($24,850,- 
524.84). 

In  March,  1876,  were  worked  24,991,800-2,000 
tons  of  ore,  which  produced  f;i,634,218.92. 
The  total  yield  of  the  two  mines  Virginia 
and  California  has  exceeded  fifty  million  dot' 
lars. 

The  bullion  from  this  mine  and  others  on  the 
Comstock  Lode  is  very  pure,  and  on  an  average 
is  about  .045  fine  in  gold,  and  .950  in  silver,  leav- 
ing only  about  .005  of  base  metal.  The  propor- 
tion of  gold  to  silver  varies,  and  with  it  the 
value  of  the  bullion  per  pound.  A  shipment, 
which  represented  a  fair  a\erage,  was  of  50  bars 
of  $180,998  stamped  value,  and  weighing  5,741 
lbs.  avoirdupois,  thus  representing  a  value  of 
$32.57  per  lb.  Had  this  been  pure  silver,  it 
would  have  been  stumped  $18.81  per  lb.,  and  the 
excess  above  that,  is  for  the  gold  in  the  bullion. 
It  may  surprise  one  to  be  told  that  silver  bullion, 
carrying  so  large  a  portion  of  gold,  shows  no 
trace  oi  it.  A  bar  of  gold  and  silver,  in  equal 
proportions,  would  scarcely  differ  in  color  from  a 
pure  silver  bar.  Its  weight  would,  however,  re- 
veal the  presence  of  the  gold,  at  once.  When 
six  or  seven-tenths  are  gold,  its  color  begins  to 
show. 

The  valnable  product  obtained  from  the  ore 
was  over  seventy-two  per  cent,  of  its  assay  value 
during  the  month  reported  above.  It  is  not 
usual  to  obtain  a  better  result  than  this  without 
roa-sting  the  ore  before  amalgamation.  It  will 
interest  one,  not  familiar  with  mining,  to  notice 
how  small  in  both  bulk  and  weight  the  bullion 
product  is  when  compared  with  the  amount  of 
ore  handled.  During  the  month  referred  to,  four 
hundred  and  forty-six  tons  of  ore,  which  would 
make  a  mass  10  feet  high,  20  feet  wide  and  30 
feet  long,  yielded  only  one  ton  of  bullion,  which 
could  be  melted  into  a  solid  cube  18  3-5  inches 
on  a  side,  or  1,560  cubic  feet  of  ore  were  worked 
to  obtain  one  cubic  foot  of  bullion. 

Beduotion  of  the  Ores.  The  ores  at  this 
place  are  worked  without  roasting  by  the  pan 
process  of  American  origin,  first  adopted  on  the 
Comstock  I<ode.  It  is  suited  admirably  to  ores 
which  work  kindly,  requiring  little  chemical 
action  or  heat  to  make  them  part  with  their 


I 


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II 


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227 


i 


precious  contents,  to  be  taken  up  by  anialgiuna- 
tion  with  quickr-ilver.  Though  it  rarely  yields 
as  close  a  resilt  as  the  Mexican  patio  process, 
or  the  furnace  and  barrel  process  of  Freiberg, 
it  is  so  much  i,  ore  expeditious  and  economical 
of  labor,  and  so  capable  of  being  applied  on  a 
large  scale,  that,  on  the  whole,  it  is  unquestion- 
ably preferable.  The  other  processes  referred  to 
have  been  thoroughly  tried  in  Virginia  City,  and 
found  utterly  unsuited  to  the  conditions  existing 
there. 

The  first  part  of  the  process,  is  wet  crushing  of 
the  ore,  by  stamps  in  iron  mortars,  a  constant 
stream  of  water  carrying  off  through  a  brass 
wire  screen  the  pulverized  irortion  as  fast  as  re- 
duced small  enough.  The  screens  are  at  the 
back  of  the  mortar.  Five  stamps,  weighing 
about  650  pounds  each,  are  usually  placed  in  a 
single  mortar,  and  are  lifted  and  dropped  from 
five  to  eight  inches  about  ninety  times  a  minute. 
The  feeder,  standing  in  front,  judges  by  the 
sound  when  and  where  to  feed  in  the  oro.  lying 
behind  him.  He  is  expected  to  feed  two  bj'tter- 
ies  of  five  stamps  each,  which  are  usually  placed 
in  one  frame,  and  run  by  a  single  sb.aft.  So;:ij 
mills  have  twelve  such  batteries  or  sixcy  stamps. 
The  amount  crus'.ied  by  a  stamp  in  twenty-four 
hours — for  work  never  stops  day  or  night — varies 
with  the  fineness  of  the  screen,  the  character  of 
the  ore,  and  the  skill  of  the  feeder,  and  is  from 
one  to  two  and  a  half  tons  a  day.  Automatic 
machinery  for  feeding  batteries  is  now  introduced 
in  many  mills. 

The  stream  running  constantly  from  the  bat- 
tery is  received  in  a  seri(\s  of  tanks  and  settled 
as  much  as  possible,  the  deposit  from  it  being 
coarse  sand  at  first,  and  fine  sediments  at  last. 
The  fine  sediuiMits  are  called  slums,  and  must 
be  thoroughly  mingled  with  the  coarse  sand  in 
the  after  process,  for  though  often  containing  the 
richest  portion  of  the  ore,  the  atoms  are  so  im- 
palpably  fine,  ..nd  adhere  to  one  another  so 
closely,  as  to  eiude  the  mechanical  .agencies  em- 
ployed ^j  obtiiin  thr.  precious  metal  they  bear, 
and.  'l  worked  by  thems-lves,  carry  away  nearly 
i'.li  they  are  worth  with  them.  By  mingling 
them  with  the  sand  in  as  nearly  as  possilile  the 
same  proportion  in  which  they  come  from  the 
stamps,  they  become  broken  up,  separated  and 
distributed  through  the  whole  mass  of  pulp,  and 
are  persu'tded  to  give  up  the  most  of  tlio  silver 
they  hold.  Tliifl  silver  is  not  in  metallic  form, 
but  combined  with  sulphur,  chlorine  or  antimony 
for  the  most  part.  Chlorides  of  silv  t  easily  and 
sulphurets  more  reluctantly  part  from  the  base 
witli  which  they  are  miited,  and  amalgamate 
with  quicksilver. 

Antimonial  silver  not  only  refuses  to  do  this, 
hut  obstructs  the  jirocess  on  the  part  of  other 
silver  compounds  vith  which  it  may  be  associ- 
U'd,  and  is,  therefore,  drcuided  bj  all  silver  mill- 
men  who  do  not  roast  their  ores ;  but  the  com- 


pounds of  silver  at  Virginia  City,  are  chiefly 
chlorides,  and  antimonial  silver  ores,  tliough  they 
occur  there,  are  found  in  small  quantities  only. 

To  effect  this  amalgamation  of  the  silver  in 
the  ore  witli  mercury,  the  crushed  pulp  is  now 
placed  in  quantities  of  one  to  two  tons,  some- 
times even  more,  in  an  iron  pan,  five  or  six  feet 
in  diameter  and  three  to  four  feat  doep,  and 
ground  and  stirred  by  a  revolving  muUer,  till  all 
the  coarse  sand  is  reduced  fine.  The  muUer  is 
then  raised  and  the  grinding  ceases,  but  the  agi- 
tation is  continued,  and  a  large  body  of  quick' 
silver  is  introduced,  and  steam  is  also  let  either 
into  the  body  of  the  pulp,  or  a  false  bottom  under 
the  pan,  so  as  to  heat  the  whole  mass,  the  amaU 
gamatorin  charge  standing  by  and  testing  it  with 
his  finger,  thinning  it  with  slums  of  water,  thick> 
ening  it  with  coarse  sand,  shutting  off  the  steam 
or  letting  more  on,  as  his  judgment  dictates,  till 
the  temperature  and  consistency  suit.  This  pro* 
cess  is  continued  from  three  to  twelve  hours,  ac» 
cording  to  the  richness  and  the  kindly  or  refract* 
ory  temper  of  the  ore.  Poor  ores  must  be  rushed 
through,  that  a  large  amount  may  ])e  woited. 
Rich  ores,  after  yielding  handsomely,  may  still 
obstinately  retain  more  value  than  some  poor 
ones  ever  carried. 

The  pulp  is  kept  thick  enough  to  float  minute 
atoms  of  quicksilver,  and  is  made  to  roll  over  and 
ove;  by  wings  on  the  sides  of  the  pan  and  on  the 
niulltr,  until  all  the  amalgamation  that  can  be 
effected  is  accomplished,  when  the  motion  is 
dimini-^hed,  and  the  charge  in  the  pan  drawn  off 
into  a  large  settler  on  a  lower  level,  where  h  is 
diluted  \>'ith  a  large  volume  of  cold  water,  and 
slowly  f  .irred,  and  the  quicksilver  atoms  uniting, 
gather  in  a  body  at  the  bottom  and  are  drawn 
off  through  a  syphon.  Meantime,  a  stream  of 
water  running  through  the  settler,  carries  off 
the  eai  thy  contents,  and  finally,  when  quicksilver 
ceases  to  "gather,  the  settler  is  drawn  off  nearly 
to  the  bottom  and  made  ready  for  the  contents  of 
another  pan.  It  is  usual  to  have  one  settler  for 
two  pans,  and  give  half  the  time  to  settling  that 
is  cccujiied  in  grinding  and  amalgamating. 

The  silver  and  gold,  so  *'ar  as  they  liave  been 
taken  up,  are  now  held  by  the  quicksilver.  This 
is  strained  through  iong,  deep,  conical,  canvai> 
bags,  and  the  tough  amalgam  obtained  is  placed 
in  close  iron  retorts,  the  quicksilver  distilled  out 
by  fire ;  crude  bullion  results,  which  is  melted  in 
a  crucil)le  and  poured  into  moulds,  and  when 
weighed,  assayed  and  stamped  with  its  value,  is 
ready  for  market. 

The  discharged  ore  from  the  settler  is  called 
tailings,  and  is  often  caught  in  large  reservoirs, 
and  after  lying  months  ^r  years,  as  the  case 
may  be,  :s  worked  through  the  pans  and  settlers 
again,  and  this  process  in  sometimes  repeated 
several  times,  especially  if  ore  becomes  scarce. 
The  practice  of  different  mining  companies  as  to 
the  disposition  of  their  tailings,  varies  exceed- 


)■'■%■ 


Vl 


228 


I  9 


n 


ingly.  So  lon^'  as  ore  is  plenty,  no  pains  are 
taken  to  save  them.  'Ihey  never  have  been 
worked  so  closely  as  not  still  to  carry  several 
dollars  to  the  ton  value  in  precious  metal. 

The  process  employed  at  Virginia  City,  is  in 
use  wherever  silver  is  mined  on  the  Pacific  Coast, 
with  such  modifications  as  differences  in  the  char- 
acter of  the  ore  demand.  Sc.ne  ores  are  so  re- 
fractory as  to  requiie  roasting.  They  are  first 
dried  thoroughly,  then  crushed  dry,  next  roasted 
to  expel  sulphur,  antimony,  zinc,  etc.,  and  then 
treated  in  pans  and  settlers  as  if  crushed  wet  with- 
out roasting.  The  process  is  expensive,  but  has 
some  compensation  in  the  closer  percentage  of 
assay  value  obtained,  and  smaller  waste  of  quick- 
silver. The  loss  of  this  metal  ;n  amalgamating 
unroasted  ores,  amounts  in  various  ways  to  from 
two  to  four  pounds  for  each  ton  worked.  Some 
of  it  combines  with  chlorine  in  the  ore,  and  is 
converted  into  calomel.  This  is  lost  beyond  re- 
covery. Some  of  it  is  volatilized  by  the  heat  in 
the  pans,  and  some  escapes  through  the  joints  of 
the  retorts,  and  this  also  is  lost  finally,  and 
sometimes  hurts  workmen  exposed  to  the  fumes. 
Moat  of  it  is  lost  by  not  being  gathered  in  the 
settler.     It  goes  off  in  minute  atoms,  carrying 

fold  and  silver  with  it.  This  is  partly  recovered 
y  working  the  tailings,  or  by  running  them  over 
blankets  in  sluices  which  entrap  enough  of  it  to 
pay  well  for  the  cost  of  the  process. 

Sinks  of  the  Great  Nevada  Basin.— 
One  of  the  most  wonderful  natural  features  of 
that  part  of  the  Continent  lying  between  the 
Wahsatch  and  Sierra  Nevada  Ranges  of  Mount- 
ains, is  the  Great  Desert  and  its  numerous  sinks. 
The  sink  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake  has  already 
been  alluded  to.  It  is  a  great  natural  curiosity 
of  itself.  It  receives  the  waters  of  an  immense 
region  of  country,  and,  tho  igh  gradually  rising, 
is  still  confined  to  its  banks,  and  gives  off  its  sur- 
plus waters  by  evaporation.  There  is  nc  evi- 
dence wliatever  that  it  has  a  subterraneous  out- 
let. Between  it  and  the  sinks  of  the  Nevada 
Desert,  there  is  an  elevated  ridge  and  broken 
ranges  of  mountains,  with  gaps  and  valleys  be- 
tween them.  This  whole  desert  has  evidently 
been  a  lake,  or  an  inland  sea,  at  some  time, 
while  the  mountains  have  been  islands  in  it. 
Passing  the  ridge,  or  low  divide  between  tho 
broken  mountains,  which  separates  the  Great 
Salt  Lake  fiom  the  desert  beyond,  and  we  ar- 
rive at  the  sinks  of  the  Nevada  Basin.  The 
first  is  the  Humboldt  Lake,  which  has  been  de- 
scribed. Then  the  Ilumlwldt  and  Carson  Sink, 
which,  unlike  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  receives  the 
waters  of  both  the  Humboldt  River  and  Lake 
rnd  the  Carson  River  and  Lake,  flowing  from 
opposite  directions ;  and,  in  the  hot  months  of 
summer,  when  evaporation  is  greatest,  is  very 
nearly  dry.  On  the  other  hand,  in  the  spring, 
wh^n  the  snows  of  the  mountains  melt,  or  when 
heavy  rains  occur  in   the  winter    and    sprinjr 


months,  causing  a  large  flow  of  water  in  the 
Humboldt  and  Carson  Rivers,  these  lakes  of  the 
same  name  nearly  always  rise  together,  and  the 
vast  salty  plain,  in  and  around  the  sink,  becomes 
a  lake  of  great  size.  There  is  no  evidence  of 
any  subterranean  outlet  to  the  waters  that  flow 
into  this  large  sink.  On  the  contrary,  those  who 
have  noticed  the  rapidity  with  which  water  dis- 
appears from  a  tub  or  other  vessel  exposed  to  tiie 
sun  and  air  in  this  region,  have  no  difficulty  in  be- 
lieving, in  fact  almost  seeing,  the  process  of  evap 
oration  going  on,  by  which  the  waters  are  drunk 
up  and  scattered  over  the  earth  in  clouds,  to  be 
again  distilled  in  rain. 

Walker  Lake,  whicV  r' •  ivec  the  flow  of 
V.'alker  River,  is  anothfi  i  •  ^  '-ese  m\  "^eri- 
ous  sinks.  It  is  off  U  .ik'  ^/uch  of  Carson 
Lake.  The  river  rises  in  Un;  Sierra  Nevadas 
and  flows  in  a  general  easterly  direction,  till  its 
waters  are  swallowed  up  by  the  sands  of  the 
desert,  or  lost  through  the  same  process  men- 
tioned elsewhere.  There  are  also  numerous 
streams  rising  in  the  mountains,  assuming  large 

Croportions  by  the  time  they  reach  the  valleys, 
ut  the  sands  of  the  desert  soon  drink  them  diy, 
and  they  are  "  lost  to  sight." 

North  of  the  Central  Pacific,  about  20  milog 
from  Wadsworth,  are  the  sinks  of  Pyramid 
Lake,  AVinuemucca  Lake  and  Mud  Lake,  the 
latter  being  a  considerable  distance  north  of 
Pyramid  Lake.  These  bodies  of  water  a*^^  times 
quite  large,  are  called  fresh  water  lake&,  ^h^uuh 
they  are  brackish  and  abound  in  fish  Nfvtii- 
cast  of  Wiiniemucca  Lake  is  Cjuln's  P  vn,  onite 
a  large  stream  near  its  source  in  d  m  ",/  .'.ns 
of  Idaho;  but  it  becomes  lost  intlK  ki  rt,,  r.  ?■» 
way,  a])parently,  to  AVinnemucca  Lakf  J  'ivi 
lakes  and  the  desert  are  the  mighty  «ink'  hici) 
drink  up  the  water  that  is  not  evt;  ,vi:  r  \, 
sometimes  evaporation  gets  the  best  of  iliem. 
North-west  of  Mud  Lake,  over  in  California,  is 
Honey  Lake,  another  remarkable  body  of  water. 
It  is  sometimes  dry  so  that  teams  can  be  driven 
across  its  bed,  and  then  again  it  is  on  the  lam- 
page.  Its  waters  resemble  soap-suds,  "nd  are 
admirably  adapted  foi-  washing  purpos  \  'hen 
lashed  by  the  winds,  its  waters  become  i  '  '  ing 
mass  of  foam,  and  afford  a  mihT-  '^ent  specta- 
cle to  the  beholder.  If  it  only  lai-i  t>ermanint 
water  of  the  character  alluded  to.  »t  ':  .  ■>''  bean 
excellent  locatio!\  for  a  huge  laundr^. 

Stage  Routes  to  Lako  Taho6.r— A  favorite 
route  lo  L'ike  Tahoe  is  via  Carson  City.  It  i.i.iy 
he  n''<rf  vusify  reached  ard  seen  on  the  wtst- 
war>i  tour,  tf\i\!.  '■)  wait  and  include  it  on  the 
eas' Aar<l  rcUiri.:. 

After  a  \\?\t  to  Virgir.ia  City,  t*ie  tourist  Nvili 
retui  n  to  Carson  City,  remain  over  night  iit  a 
good  comfortable  hotel,  the  Ormsby  Hou?-  .— 
whose  proprietor  consider  it  "  the  highest  imied 
hotel  in  Nevada"  and  next  morning,  at  8.3i/  a. 
M.,  take  Benton's  Stage  for  Tahoe. 


229 


;er  in  the 
,kes  of  the 
sr,  and  the 
k,  becomes 
vidence  of 
;  that  flow 
,  those  who 
•water  dis- 
osed  to  the 
culty  inbe- 
essof  evap- 
i  are  drunk 
ouds,  to  be 

he  flow  of 
ise  m)  "^eri- 
of  Carson 
ra  Nevadns 
tion,  till  its 
mds  of  the 
recess  men- 
)  numerous 
Liming  large 
the  valleys, 
ik  them  di  y, 

mt  20  miles 

of    rvraniiJ 

d   Lake,  the 

ice  north  of 

ater  a^.  times 

akei>,  'hvUiih 

isb      N'-.t1.- 

P  vn,  o.'ite 

.  -Ill  ••.■'  ■•ii'^ 

le.  ^-1/^  i's 

ak<-      :>"^:-- 

Eink'     '1  ic'i 

est;  of  ilit'in. 
California,  is 

dy  of  water. 
m  be  driven 

on  the  iam- 
uds,  ~nd  are 
kos         \.'hen 


ime  I 


ing 


rent  spei'ta- 
i>erman(i)t 

:  ,:\.'v''  b»!an 

-A  favorite 
:ity.  It  i.Kiy 
on  the  we?t- 
;de  it  on  I  he 

fi  tourist  will 

night  at   a 

sby  Hou^  ■•- 

r  highest   toned 

ng,  at  8.3' »  a. 


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To  visit  and  make  the  circuit  of  the  lake,  and 
return  to  Carson  will  require  at  least  18  hours, 
but  most  tourists  will  find  it  desirable  to  stop  at 
the  little  hotel  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  lake, 
and  return  via  Truckee,  thus  seeing  greatei 
variety  of  scenery. 

Tourists  by  this  route  to  Virginia  City,  Carson 
and  Tahoe,  will  be  obliged  to  leave  the  Overland 
Western  train  at  Beno  at  8:30  p.  m.,  and  spend 
the  night  at  Beno  at  the  Railroad  Hotel,  or 
go  on  the  same  night  to  Cai-sou  or  Virginia 
Citv. 

During    the      .  •,  stages    leave    Carson 

every  morning  p  ight  o'clock  for  Lake 

Tahoe. 

Private  teams,  or  special  stages,  can  be  en- 
gaged at  Benton's  stables,  in  Carson,  for  a  trip 
to  the  Lake  at  any  time. 

On  this  route  there  is  the  best  known  of  all 
California  stage-drivers,  who  have  reined  kyuse 
or  mustang  horses, — tlie  modest  Hank  Monk. 
His  first  fame  was  not  on  the  platform  of 
Faneuil  Hall  in  oratory,  but  in  the  streets  of 
Boston,  with  eight  horses  abreast,  well  trained 
to  the  voice  and  whip.  He  has  driven  stage  in 
Califoniia  and  Nevada,  since  1852,  and  made 
the  distance  between  Carson  and  Virginia,  21 
miles,  in  one  hour  and  eight  minutes.     His  ap- 

Eearance  and  gait  do  not  indicate  much  energy, 
ut  he  drove  Horace  Greeley  109  miles  in  10 
hours,  fast  enough  toward  the  end  of  the 
journey,  and  as  long  as  he  c  ii  wake  up  his  pets 
with  a  strong  voice  or  far  reaching  whip,  he  will 
not  fail  to  get  his  passengers  through,  "  on 
time."  But  to  the  credit  of  others,  it  should  be 
said,  that  California  and  Nevada  have  hundreds 
of  drivere  not  less  skillful  and  reliable  than  the 
favorite  Monk. 

The  route  to  the  lake  lies  first  south,  through 
the  oarson  Valley,  toward  Job's  Peaks  and  Silver 
Mountain,  always  beautiful  with  snow.  In  the 
clear  atmosphere,  the  first  will  appear  only  a  few 
miles  away,  but  it  is  still  more  than  twenty 
miles  distant.  The  stage  road  turns  west,  up  Clear 
Creek  Canon,  through  which  comes  the  Twenty- 
one  Mi  '!  (V  shaped)  Flume  of  the  Carson  &  Ta- 
hoe Lu  -iber  Company,  through  which  700  cords 
of  wood,  or  half  a  million  feet  of  mining  timber 
can  be  daily  delivered  at  Carson  City  from  the 
summits  of  the  Sierras.  Along  the  canon  are 
many  towering,  sun-burnt  rocks,  weather-beaten 
and  worn  into  weird  and  fantastic  shapes,  and 
these  and  the  swift^escending  timber,  splashing 
the  water  up  many  j'eet  at  every  turn,  to  sparkle 
in  the  sunlight,  the  Carson  Valley  spread  out 
below,  with  the  Pine  Nut,  Walker  and  Sweet- 
water Mountains  on  one  side,  and  the  Sierras 
opposite,  always  attract  and  delight  the  lover  of 
bold  mountain  scenery. 

At  the  summit,  the  flume  connects  frith 
the  Lake  Tahoe  N.  G.  Railroad,  9  miles 
]ong  from  summit  to  Glenbrook  on  shore  of 


the  lake.  The  distance  is  but  three  miles  by 
wagon  road,  6  miles  less  than  by  the  R.  R.  The 
railroad  is  worked  only  in  the  summer  months- 
after  much  of  it  has  been  sought  out  and  found 
with  shovels,  and  is  «...-posed  t«  damage  and  de- 
struction from  avalanches  of  snow  or  rock  wliich 
come  thundering  down  the  steep  sides  with  re- 
sistless force.  Near  the  summit  it  has  the  enor- 
mous grade  of  180  feet  to  the  mile.  This  pas- 
sage over  the  eastern  summit  of  the  Sierras  is 
made  where  the  range  is  depressed  and  the  view, 
though  beautiful,  is  far  too  contracted  to  fully 
gratify  the  tK:-'eler.  Below,  lies  Lake  Tahoe, 
girt  with  everlasting  pine-clad  hills  whose  snowy 
masses  and  evergreen  foliage  mingle  with  the 
deep  blue  of  an  iidand  sea,  yet  only  a  small  jx)r- 
tion  of  its  beauty  can  be  seen. 

Lake  Tahoe. — This  great  body  of  fresh 
water,  25  miles  long,  on  an  average  ten  wide, 
about  three-fourths  in  California,  and  one-foiiith 
in  Nevada,  has  an  elevation  of  a  mile  and  a 
quarter,  and  has  been  sounded  to  a  depth  of 
3,000  feet.  Thi-ough  glacial  action  in  past  ages, 
ice  must  have  been  piled  up  in  the  valley  of  this 
lake  3,400  feet  high.  It  never  freezes,  is  smooth 
as  glass  and  clear  as  crystal,  permitting  the 
trout  to  be  seen  or  pebbles  counted  at  a  depth  of 
80  feet.  Its  water  changes  color  to  a  beantifui 
emerald  or  almost  indigo  blue  according  to  the 
depth,  and  when  disturbed  by  the  fierce  niountr 
ain  winds,  its  waves  lash  the  shore  with  foaming 
fury. 

At  Glenbrook,  five  steamers  will  be  found, 
three  of  which  are  employed  for  the  mills,  and 
t!ie  others,  the  "  Niagara  "  and  "  Stanford  "  will 
convey  tourists,  not  exceeding  200  in  number, 
around  the  lake. 

Glenbrook  is  the  business  center  of  the  whol« 
region  that  borders  on  the  lake.  It  has  four 
saw-mills  with  an  aggregate  capacity  of  five 
million  feet  per  montii,  running  11 1-2  hours 
per  day,  also  a  planing  mill. 

Captain  Pray,  the  oldest  settler,  is  a  large 
land-owner,  and  much  of  the  200  acres  in  the 
ranche  on  the  shores  of  the  lake,  is  covered  with 
a  beautiful  sod  of  timothy  and  clover.  In  the 
State  there  is  no  finer  land,  and  as  the  captain 
and  other  mill-owners  will  rent  none  for  fii  loon 
purposes,  Glenbrook,  with  a  summer  population 
of  .500,  is  a  temperance  town.  The  Glenlirook 
Hotel,  usually  kept  in  firstKjlass  stvle,  l\  usnally 
open  each  season,  if  not,  comfortable  at^ommn- 
dations  can  still  be  found  at  the  Lake  Shore 
House,  for  $20  a  week,  without  extra  charge  for 
the  use  of  boats. 

Shakespeare  Rock,  a  remarkable  curiosity,  is 
a  bold,  perpendicular  rock  on  which  the  piofile 
of  the  great  poet's  face  is  outlined  with  ^'rcat 
accuracy. 

From  Glenbrook  there  is  a  charming  drive  on 
the  old  PlacervMle  Road,  past  Cave  Rock,  and 
around  the  hea     of  the  lake  to  Rowlands  or 


231 


A 


ree  miles  by 
leR.  R.   The 

ner  months— 
ut  and  found 
mage  and  de- 
tr  rock  which 
tides  with  re- 
has  the  ctior- 
e.  This  iias- 
,he  Sierras  is 
and  the  vinw, 
icted  to  fully 
Lake  Tahoe, 
I  whose  snowy 
igle  with  the 
y  a  small  por- 

ody  of  fresh 
vge  ten  wide, 
vnd  one-fourth 
i,  mile  and  a 
to  a  depth  of 
1  in  past  ages, 
I  valley  of  this 
ezes,  is  smooth 
)ermitting  the 
d  at  a  deptli  of 
;o  a  beautiful 
ording  to  the 
fierce  nu^unt- 
j  with  foaming 

will  be  found, 
the  mills,  and 
Stanford  "  will 
[K)  in  number, 

r  of  the  whole 
e.  It  has  four 
pacity  of  five 
g   11 1-2   hours 

,ler,  is  a  large 
K)  acres  in  the 
is  covered  with 
clover.  In  the 
i  as  the  captain 
lone  for  saloon 
mer  population 
The  Glenbrook 
ityle,  i,^  usually 
table  at-onitnn- 
le  Lake  Shore 
xtra  charge  for 

ible  curiosity,  is 
hich  the  pmtile 
ned  with  ,i(rcat 

arming  drive  on 
Cave  Rock,  and 
o  Rowlands  or 


Yank's.  The  road  was  constructed  at  great  ex- 
pense— a  single  mile  near  the  rock,  costing  f  40,- 
(KK).  The  only  other  drive,  of  note,  \i  from 
Tahoe  City  to  Sugar  Pine  Pont. 

The  whole  of  the  lake  is  not  visible  until  the 
stoamer  has  run  out  a  little  distance  from  the 
shore.  Then  its  generic  name  is  rather  fitting. 
"  Tahoe,"  in  the  Indian,  signifies  "  big  water," 
a  ad  is  the  name  for  ocean.  The  snore  slopes 
g?ntly,  in  places,  for  two  miles  to  a  depth  of 
from  30  to  50  ie'^t.  then  breaks  sometimes  ab- 
ruptly as  at  t^ ,  Bluffs  of  Rubicon  or  Observa- 
tory Point,  to  a  depth  of  600  or  800  feet;  and  off 
Sugar  Pine  Point  is  the  greatest  depth  yet  found. 
The  water  is  clear  jvs  crystal,  and  the  tempera- 
ture in  summer,  when  taken  from  considerable 
depth,  very  near  the  freezing  point.  Tlie  fare 
across  the  lake  is  !|2.50,  and  around,  $5.  The 
steamer  must  lie  idle  half  the  year,  and  reasona- 
ble fares  may  seem  thus  hi<fh.  Leaving  Gljn- 
brook  for  a  circuit  around  the  head  of  the  lake, 
the  first  object  of  interest  is  Cave  Rock,  tliiee 
and  one-half  miles  from  Glenbrook,  about  400 
feet  high.  This  appears  in  the  engraving  from 
Moran's  sketch  made  from  the  point  just  south 
of  GlenbiccL,  and  looking  south  and  west. 

After  passing  the  rock,  and  looking  back,  it 
resembles  the  L'reat  South  Dome  of  Yosemite, 
split  in  two,  and  the  cavern,  <iO  feet  in  length,  is 
seen  about  iOO  feet  above  the  ground.  The  line 
of  solid  masonry  and  bridge  for  the  road  an  just 
be  traced  from  the  point  where  the  arti'.t  stood. 
Leaving  Cave  Rock,  Zephyr  Cove  is  three  miles 
south.  Beautiful  meadows  afford  fine  pasturage, 
and  being  on  the  east  side,  the  earliest  vege- 
tables are  here  grown.  The  mountain's  wall 
shows  plainly  its  broken  but  regular  character. 
From  the  main  ridge,  a  cross  spur  is  thrown  out, 
but  this  must  again  be  broken  into  a  succession 
of  small  canons  and  "  divides." 

Just  south  of  the  cave  is  the  old  Friday 
Panche,  well  known  by  the  pioneers  who  were 
"on  the  way  to  Washoe"  and  the  Kingsbury 
Canon,  through  which  the  road  crossed  the 
mountain  to  Genoa.  In  other  days,  the  toll  re- 
ceipts on  the  Kingsbury  grade  were  f  500  a  day. 

BowlandB— 14  miles  from  Glenbrook,  at  the 
hood  of  the  lake,  on  the  Old  Placerville  Road, 
was  the  first  phvce  of  resort  on  the  lake  and 
originally  called  the  Lake  House.  It  has  greatly 
changed  from  the  day  when  J.  Ross  Browne  was 
a  guest,  and  the  host  "  seemed  to  be  quite  worn  out 
with  his  run  of  customers, — from  a  hundred  to 
three  hundred  of  a  night,  and  nowhere  to  stow 
'em — all  cussin'  at  him  for  not  keepin'  provis- 
ions, with  but  little  to  drink,  except  old  fash- 
ioned tarantula-juice,  warranted  to  kill  at  forty 
paces."  It  has  now  two  stores  and  a  post-office, 
with  accommodations    for  tourists  at  moderate 

Firice.  Lake  ^alley  appears,  from  a  distance, 
ike  a  large,  p.n°-covered  flat.  It  is  14  miles 
long  and  six  wide,  partly  covered  with  timber, 


and  having  much  grazing  land  of  the  best 
quality.  The  stock  that  pastures  in  these  fertile 
valleys  of  the  lake,  is  all  driven  out  before  the 
winter  snows  begin.  Between  Rowlands  and 
Yank's,  is  the  terminus  of  Gardner's  Rail- 
road, a  successful  enterprise  for  lumbering.  It 
will  soon  be  extended  from  six  to  ten  miles. 

Yank's — is  4  miles  from  Rowlands,  and  at 
the  south-west  end  of  the  lake,  just  west  of  and 
with  convenient  access  to  Lake  Valley,  and  is 
situated  on  a  grassy  sward,  in  a  beautiful  grove 
of  tamaracks  interspersed  with  tall  pines  and 
quaking  aspens,  with  a  pebbly  beach  gently 
sloping  from  Teliae  Point,  commanding  a  view 
of  the  whole  lake,  with  convenient  access  to 
Teliae  Mountain,  and  only  two  miles  from  Fall- 
en Leaf  Lake,  another  beautiful  sheet  of  water, 
three  miles  long  and  one  and  one-half  wide,  at 
the  head  of  which  are  excellent  Soda  Springs. 
Teliae  Mountain  is  easily  recognized  from  its 
long,  fiat  summit,  and  may  be  ascended  via  Fall- 
en Leaf  Lake  and  a  steep  canon.  The  view 
from  the  summit  is  one  of  the  finest  on  the  Cou- 
tinent. 

To  the  east,  looking  across  Lake  Valley  and 
the  beautiful  Tahoe,  the  eastern  summits  do  not 
shut  out  the  country  beyond,  for  Carson  Valley 
and  much  of  Nevada  are  in  sight.  On  the  west, 
are  the  great  valleys  of  central  California,  beyond 
them  the  Coast  Range,  and  scattered  among  the 
countless  snow  and  purple  peaks  of  the  Sierras, 
there  nestle  thirty-six  lakes  in  sight,  varying 
from  the  deep,  dark  blue  of  Tahoe  to  the  bril- 
liancy of  silver  beneath  a  noonday  sun.  Horses 
and  boats  are  always  to  be  had  at  Yank's. 
Twenty  dollars  per  week  is  the  price  of  board ; 
boats  are  charged  for  at  the  rate  of  city  prices 
for  carriages. 

"Yank  is  a  soubriquet  to  r-ojrk  the  Green 
Mountain  origin  of  the  former  host,  Mr.  E. 
Clement.  It  is  now  owned  by  Mr.  Bald- 
win, of  Baldwin's  Hotel,  San  Francisco, 
and  the  proprietor  proposes  to  make  it  the 
most  attnuitive  place  on  the  lake.  None 
is  more  favored  for  situation,  as  it  com- 
mands an  unsurpassed  view  of  the  lake. 

Leaving  Yank's,  the  steamer  heads  north  and 
proceeds  four  miles  to  Emerald  Bay,  passing  two 
well-rounded  peaks  at  the  foot  of  which  is  a 
beautiful  valley,  in  which  lies  Cascade  Lake. 
This,  too,  is  accessible  from  Yank's  and  is  one  of 
its  attractions.  The  point  just  north  of  the  en- 
trance to  Emerald  Bay  was  long  the  home  of 
America's  pride  among  the  birds,  and  is  named 
Eagle  Point. 

Emerald  Bay — is  a  gem  of  beauty — entered 
on  the  south  side  of  a  narrow  strait,  as  shown  on 
our  title-page.  It  is  two  miles  long  by  about 
three-fourths  of  a  mile  wide.  The  entrance  is 
shoal,  but  the  bay  deep.  Near  the  head  of  the 
bay  is  a  little  granite  island,  with  a  few  small 
trees  and  shrubs,  and  the  unfilled  tomb  of  an 


S\: 


i;   Vi 


232 


TMS  ^SSCIFIC  FO&HlSr. 


\1 


eccentric  tar — Captain  Dick — who  prepared  the 
island  for  his  own  mausoleum,  in  which  he  iu' 
tended  to  place  himself  on  the  approach  of  death, 
but  his  drowned  body  became  food  for  the  fishes, 
and  the  lonely  cross  marked  an  empty  tomb. 

This  charming  bay  is  owned  by  Ben  Holladay, 
Jr.  His  summer  residence  is  surrounded  by  a 
grove  of  willows  and  a  stream  fed  by  eternai 
snows,  pouring  down  in  three  successive  lofty 
waterfalls,  which  rival  in  grace  and  beauty 
3ome  of  the  smaller  in  Yosemite,  keeps  the 
grassy  sward  always  green,  and  plays  in  a 
fountain    before  the  door. 

The  surrounding  hills  are  so  steep  that  they 
can  be  climlied  only  with  great  difficulty.  Just 
opposite  the  island,  on  the  north  side,  there  is 
the  mark  of  an  avalanche  of  snow,  that  carried 
the  tall  pines  before  it  like  shrubs^  and  has  left 
the  mountain  side  completely  bare. 

Rubicon  Point  and  Bay,  and  Sugar  Pine  Point 
are  next  passed,  going  north  on  the  way  to 
McKiniiey's,  ten  miles  from  Emerald  Bay. 

At  McKinney's,  there  is  no  large  house,  but 
13  cottages  and  pleasant  surroundings.  The 
road  to  Tahoe  City,  gives  this  the  advantage  of  a 
pleasant  drive.  Board  may  be  had  at  $20  a 
week. 

Continuing  north,  the  steamer  passes  Black- 
wood Creek,  where  sone  towering  rocks  are  seen 
whose  height  is  scarcely  comprehended,  because 
the  trees  and  mountains  beyond  are  on  so  great 
a  scale.  Small  as  they  seem,  they  are  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty  feet  high,  and  the  trees  at  their 
base  not  less  than  200  feet. 

Ward's  Bay  lies  north  of  the  Creek,  and 
Bawker'a  Peak,  a  sharp,  high  point,  is  back  in 
the  mountains. 

Tahoe  City. — is  eight  miles  from  McKinney's, 
and  one  of  the  loveliest  spots  on  the  lake.  It  is 
at  the  source  of  the  Truckee  River,  the  only  outlet 
of  the  lake,  and  has  the  "  Grand  Central,"  the 
largest  hotel  on  the  Sierras,  with  accommodations 
for  160  guests,  and  kept  by  those  excellent  hosts, 
Bajrley  &  Moody.  This  is  the  most  con- 
venient point  of  access  for  tourists  from  Califor- 
nia. The  road  to  Truckee  is  down  the  beautiful 
canon  of  the  Truckee  River,  through  a  noble 
forest  of  pines,  invigoiating  and  delightful  at 
every  step.  Sail  and  row-boats  of  all  kinds  may 
be  had  at  this  point,  and  also  carriages;  but  the 

E rices  should  be  agreed  upon  beforehand.  No 
oats  are  kept  for  the  use  of  the  hotel. 
Board  at  the  Grand  Central  may  be  had,  vary- 
ing from  $3.00  to  $4.00  per  dav,  according  to 
rooms.  The  view  of  the  lake  from  Tahoe  City 
is  not  excelled,  and  equalled  only  at  Yank's 
and  the  Hot  Springs. 

_  The  hotel  and  other  accommodations  are  supe- 
rior to  all  others  on  the  Jake.  Besides  the  Grand 
Central,  there  is  the  Tahoe  House,  kept  by  Cap- 
tain Pomin. 

Tourists  who  desire  to  spend  only  one  day  in 


visiting  the  lake,  take   stages  at  this  point  lo 
Truckee,  12  miles  down  the  river. 

A  carriage  road  has  been  constructed  around 
the  lake,  so  that  tourists  may  take  saddles 
or  carriages  and  visit  all  the  places  of  interest 
at  their  leisure. 

Ti'oat. — At  Tahoe  City  there  is  a  trout  estab- 
lishment of  nmch  interest;  and  another,  oit  a 
larger  scale,  on  the  river  half  way  to  Truckcii 
Station.  'I'he  water  is  admitted  to  a  series  df 
ponds,  each  pond  being  appropriated  to  trout  nf 
a  different  size.  The  eggs  are  taken  during  A^jiil, 
May  and  June,  when  the  fish  ascend  the  river 
and  the  creeks,  to  spawn.  The  ep"js  are  stripped 
from  the  female  and  impregnated  by  8trii)piiig 
the  male  fish  into  the  same  vessel  in  which  tliu 
eggs  are  contained,  and  then  placed  on  inclined 
shelves  or  tables  where  about  half  an  inch  of 
water  runs  gently,  but  steadily  over  them.  'J'lio 
temperature  of  the  water  affects  the  time  of  hateh- 
ing,  and  the  desire  is  to  have  the  water  as  cold  as 
possible  at  the  expense  of  time  to  produce  tlie 
hardier  fish.  One  trout  coiitains  al>out  7,(i(IO 
spawn.  Twenty-five  cents  is  charged  for  admis- 
sion to  the  fishery,  and  the  privilege  of  fishing  i:i 
the  ponds  granted  for  tv  enty-five  or  fifty  cents  a 
fish,  according  to  the  size. 

The  fishing  in  the  lake  is  done  by  trolling. 
Spoon-hooks  are  soni'.'times  used,  but  early  in  tlie 
season  it  is  necessary  to  have  some  shining  de- 
vice to  attract  attention  besides  a  minnow  on 
the  hook.  The  fisheries  have  been  quite  success- 
ful in  hatching  fish,  but  not  profitable.  At  first 
nearly  all  died ;  now  nearly  all  are  raised.  The 
young  fish  are  nourished  for  several  days  after 
birth  by  a  portion  of  the  egg  from  which  tliey 
are  hatched  remaining  attached  to  them  till  it  is 
absorbed,  and  then  are  fed  on  mashed  fish,  the 
yolks  of  eggs  and  liver,  and  the  large  trout  u.e 
fed  on  suckera  and  w  hite  fish  caught  in  the  laki's 
with  seines.  Of  course  no  trout  ar  oauglil  in 
seines,  for  this  is  contrarj'  to  law. 

After  they  have  grown  to  weigh  several  pounds, 
they  will  increase  at  the  rate  of  a  pound  a  yiar. 
The  quantity  caught  in  a  year  can  not  be  tsti 
mated.  Many  are  never  sent  to  market,  anil 
they  are  caught  in  both  the  hike  and  the  river 
as  well  as  in  lX)nner  Lake. 

From  the  Truckee  River  alone,  170,000  pounds 
have  been  caught  in  a  single  season,  half  of 
which  are  usually  shipped  to  Virginia  City. 

In  the  lake  there  are  at  least  four  kinds,  two 
of  which  are  most  conmionly  known.  Thes(  are 
the  silver  trout  and  the  black  trout.  The  silver 
trout  are  most  highly  esteemed,  are  always  taken 
in  deep  water,  and  attain  a  size  of  thirty-two 
pounds.  The  silver  trout  of  Donner  Lake  grow 
from  eight  to  ten  p<ninds,  and  those  in  the  river 
are  not  so  large.  The  black  trout  run  up  tlie 
creeks  sooner  in  the  .spring  than  the  silvei.  l)ut 
the  latter  can  pass  over  greater  obstacles  ihau 
the  former. 


mm 


STMM  ffSiCIFiC  rO&^ISF. 


23B 


n 


The  white  fish  found  in  the  lake  are  quite 
nnlike  those  of  the  Great  North  American 
LaJtes. 

"While  the  tourist  who  merely  crosses  the 
lake  from  Glenbrook  to  Tahoe,  or  vice  versa, 
or  who  desires  to  reach  the  Central  Pacific 
Bailroad,  with  the  loss  of  one  day  only,  wiU 
not  mtdce  the  entire  circuit  of  the  laLe;  others 
will  visit  the  north  end,  and  some  may  prefer 
this  alone.  Continuing  around  from  Tahoe 
City,  Burton's  or  Island  Farm  is  two  miles 
from  Tahoe  City.  It  is  a  lovely  spot,  with 
summer  green  meadows  and  pebbly  beach,  and 
accommodates  at  reasonable  cost  twenty-five 
or  thirty  people.  It  is  a  favorite  resort  for 
Oalifomia  clergymen  needing  rest. 

Burton's  is  not  too  far  from  Tahoe  City  for 
exercise  at  the  oars  of  a  small  boat. 

Passing  aiouiid  the  north  end  of  the  lake, 
there  is  next,  Observatory  Point,  where  tlie  great 
telescope  of  James  Lick  was  expected  to  be 
erected,  and  beyond  this  is  Carnelian  Bay,  and 
Carneiian  Beach,  so  called  from  fine  specimens 
of  chalcedony  here  found.  Here  is  Doctor 
Bournes'  hygienic  establishment. 

Beyond  this,  are  Agate  bay  and  then  Camp- 
bell's Hot  Springs,  ten  miles  from  Glenbrook, 
and  on  Boundary  Point,  because  it  marks  the 
dividing  line  between  California  and  Nevada. 

The  water  boils  out  in  several  places  in  great 
volume.  The  hotel  is  comfortable;  the  charge 
f^i  a  day ;  the  entire  lake  is  seen  from  the  liouse, 
and  the  baths  are  an  advantage  to  be  had  no- 
where else  on  the  lake.  There  is  a  stage  from  this 
point  to  Truckee,  and  the  stages  from  Tahoe  City 
will  also  carry  passengers  thence  to  the  springs. 

Fishing  and  boating  and  driving  can  be  en- 
joyed at  pleasure,  and  in  the  hills  there  are  a  few 
grouse,  quail,  deer,  and  bear,  but  game  is  not 
plentiful. 

The  Xumber  and  Trees  of  the  Iiake 
Beg^oil. — The  logs  which  are  brought  down  to 
the  lake  at  various  points  are  towed  to  Glenbrook 
in  V-shaped  booms,  fiom  50  to  70  feet  wide  at 
one  end,  and  about  150  feet  long,  averaging 
200,000  feet  of  lumber. 

The  sugar  pine  is  the  most  valuable,  then  the 

{rellow  pine.  The  black,  or  "  bull  "  pine  was 
ong  despised,  but  is  now  highly  prized  for  its 
strength.  It  reaches,  in  California,  a  diameter 
of  15,  and  height  of  200  feet;  about  the  lake,  a 
diameter  of  10  feet.  The  leaves  are  of  a  dark 
green  color,  but  the  cones  are  enormous — some- 
times 18  inches  long.  The  wood  is  fine  grained 
and  solid,  soft  and  clear. 

The  yellow  pine  is  not  quite  so  large,  seldom 
exceeding  10  feet  in  diameter,  and  has  bark  fur- 
rowed into  plate-like  sections,  six  or  eight  inches 
wide,  and  from  12  to  20  inches  long. 

The  "  bull "  pine  is  a  favorite  with  the  wood- 
pecker for  storing  his  acorns,  not  in  the  hollow 
trees,  but  by  drilling  holes  in  the  bark,  and  fit- 


ting an  acorn  into  each.  Old  woodmen  say  the 
bird  never  makes  a  misfit,  and  selects,  the  first 
time,  a  nut  which  will  exactly  fill  the  hole  he 
has  drilled.  In  the  valleys  of  California,  nearly 
all  large  trees  are  utilized  in  this  v-ay. 

There  are  two  kinds  of  fir,  the  white  and  the 
red.  The  latter  called  also  the  Douglass  fir,  is  a 
good  strong  timber;  the  former  is  the  least 
esteemed  in  the  market. 

(Jther  pines  of  the  Sierras  are  interesting,  but 
notice  of  all  must  be  omitted  except  the  >>  ut  or 
"  Digger "  pine,  so  called  from  a  sweet  or  oily 
seed  terming  a  staple  article  of  food  for  the 
Indians,  but  it  does  not  grow  in  the  high 
Sierras.  It  is  dwai-fish  and  scraggy,  without 
one  main  trunk,  but  dividing  up  into  severaL 
It  is  said  that  this  is  so  liable  to  "  draw  "  while 
seasoning,  that  miners  who  were  compelled  to 
use  it  for  building  their  cabins,  were  not  siu-- 
prised  to  see  them  turn  over  two  or  three  times 
in  the  course  of  the  summer. 

To  see  the  mountains,  the  best  pla.)  is  to 
stop  at  the  summit,  where  there  is  a  first-class 
hotel,  and  gain  the  views  from  the  peaks  near 
by,  and  then  descend  the  mountain  by  a  freight 
train,  leaving  the  summit  at  5:30  a.  m.,  and 
reaching  Sacramento  the  same  evening  at  4:10. 
For  this,  one  must  bo  willing  to  exchange  the 
Palace  car  for  the  caboose,  and  accept  delay 
in  exchange  for  the  leisurely  enjoyment  of 
the  most  wonderful  railroad  scenery  in  the 
world. 


The  Great  Nevada  Flume. 


A   PERILOUS  RIDE. 


BY  H.  J.  BAMSDEIiL,  OF  "THE  N.  Y.  TBIBUinB. 

A  15  mile  ride  in  a  flume  down  the  Sierra 
Nevada  Mountains  in  35  minutes,  was  not  one  of 
the  things  contemplated  on  my  visit  to  Virginia 
City,  and  it  is  entirely  within  reason  to  say  that 
I  shall  never  make  the  trip  again. 

The  flume  cost,  with  its  appurtenances,  between 
$200,000  and  18300,000.  It  was  built  by  a  com- 
pany interested  in  the  mines  here,  principally 
owners  of  the  Consolidated  Virginia,  California, 
Hale  &  Norcross,  Gould  &  Curry,  Best  &  Belcher, 
and  Utah  Mines.  The  largest  stockholders  are  J. 
C.  Flood,  James  G.  Fair,  John  Mackey,  and  AV.  S. 
O'Brien,  who  compose,  without  doubt,  the  wealth- 
iest firm  in  the  United  States. 

The  mines  named  use  1,000,000  feet  of  lumber 
per  month  underground,  and  burn  40,000  cords 
of  wood  per  year.  Wood  here  is  worth  from  flO 
to  912  a  cord,  and  at  market  prices,   Messrs. 


I    "^ 


'0- 


SS4 


FMB  eSCiFlC  WOmilST. 


Flood  &  Co.,  would  have  to  pay  for  wood  alone, 
nearly  )|>500,(KX)  per  year. 

Virginia  City  is  not  built  in  a  forest.  From 
the  top  of  Mount  Davidson,  which  is  half  a  mile 
back  from  the  city,  there  is  not  a  tree  in  sight, 
except  a  few  shade-trees  in  the  city. 

Groing  into  the  mines  the  other  day,  and  see- 
ing the  immense  amount  of  timber  used,  I  asked 
Mr.  Mackey  where  all  the  wood  and  timber  came 
from.  "  It  comes,"  said  he,  "  from  our  lands  in 
the  Sierras,  40  or  50  miles  from  here.  We  own 
over  12,000  acres  in  the  vicinity  of  Washoe  Lake, 
all  of  which  is  heavily  timbered." 

"  How  do  you  get  it  here  ?  "  I  asked. 

"  It  comes,"  said  he,  "  in  our  flume  down  the 
mountain,  15    miles,   and    from    our    dumping 

S-ounds  is  brought  by  the  Virginia  &  Truckee 
ailroad  to  this  city,  1(J  miles,  lou  ought  to  see 
this  flume  before  you  go  back.  It  is  really  a 
wonderful  thing." 

T/t€  Joumeff, — When,  therefore,  two  days 
afterward,  I  was  invited  to  accompany  Mr.  Flood 
and  Mr.  Fair  to  the  head  of  the  flume,  I  did  not 
hesitate  to  accept  their  kind  offer.  We  started 
at  four  o'clock  in  the  morning,  in  two  buggies, 
the  two  gentlemen  named  in  one  buggy,  and  Mr. 
Hereford,  the  Pi  esident  and  Superintendent  of  the 
company  (which  is  known  as  the  Pacific  Wood, 
Lumber  and  Flume  Company)  and  myself  in  the 
other. 

The  drive  through  Washoe  Valley,  and  along 
the  mountains,  up  and  down  for  16  miles  over  a 
road  which,  for  picturesqueness,  is  without  an 
equal  in  memory,  can  not  be  described.  Not  a 
tree,  nor  bush,  nor  any  green  vegetation  was  in 
sight.  Hills  and  mountains,  well  defined  and 
separate  in  character,  were  in  every  direction. 
Sage  brush  and  jack  rabbits  were  the  only  living 
things  in  sight.  That  beautiful  purple  atmos- 
phere or  mist,  which  has  a  dreamy,  sleepy  effect 
in  the  landscape,  overspread  the  mountams  and 
extended  through  the  valley. 

The  road  we  traversed  swung  round  and  round 
the  mountains,  now  going  nearly  to  the  summit, 
and  now  descending  to  their  base. 

Both  teams  employed  were  of  the  best,  and  in 
less  than  an  hour  and  a  half  W8  had  accom- 
plished the  first  part  of  our  journey,  16  miles. 
Here  we  breakfasted  and  went  to  the  end  of  the 
flume,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  distant.  The  men 
were  running  timber  16  inches  square  and  10 
feet  long  through  it.  The  trestle-work  upon 
which  the  flume  rested  was  about  20  feet  from 
the  ground.  The  velocity  of  the  movement  of 
the  timber  could  scarcely  be  credited,  for  it  re- 
quires from  only  twenty-five  minutes  to  half  an 
hour  for  it  to  float  the  entire  length  of  the  flume, 
15  miles. 

The  flume  is  shaped  like  the  letter  V,  and  is 
made  of  two-inch  plank  nailed  together  in  the 
above  shape.  Across  the  top  it  is  (u)out  two  and 
one-half  feet  in  width.    The  ends  are  very  care- 


fully fitted,  so  that  where  the  planks  go  together 
there  may  be  no  uiievenness ;  for  timbers  going  at 
the  rate  of  15  to  00  miles  per  hour  must  have  a 
clear  coast. 

In  thi.s  trough  the  water  runs  from  Hunter's 
Creek,  which  is  situated  about  20  miles  from  tho 
terminus  of  the  flume. 

Some  idea  of  the  swiftness  with  which  tho 
timber  runs  through  the  flume,  may  be  had 
when  it  is  stated  that  in  the  flume  there  floats 
500,000  feet  of  lumber  every  day  (about  ten 
hours),  or  500  cords  of  wood. 

Near  the  terminus  an  iron  break  is  placed  in 
the  trough,  slanting  toward  one  side,  so  that 
when  the  timber  comes  rushing  down,  50  or  100 
pieces,  one  after  the  other,  eacTi  piece  is  turned 
toward  the  side,  and  the  men  at  the  break,  with 
a  dexterous  use  of  the  crowbar,  send  them 
bounding  to  the  ground. 

I  climbed  to  the  top  of  the  trestle-work,  be- 
fore the  timber  began  to  come.  It  was  like  thf! 
rushing  of  a  herd  of  buffalo  on  a  party  of  hunt- 
ers, and  I  preferred  to  view  the  flume,  in  active 
working,  from  a  distance. 

We  changed  teams  upon  resuming  our  journey, 
taking  fresh  horses  for  the  mountain  ascent. 
Horsemen  in  the  East  who  have  never  seen  the 
mountains  of  Nevada,  Colorado  and  California, 
can  have  no  idea  of  the  amount  of  work  a  horse 
can  do,  and  of  the  diflicult  places  through  which 
he  will  go,  and  of  the  load  he  will  carry  or  draw. 

How  a  pair  of  horses  can  pull  a  buggy  and 
two  men  up  a  grade  that  seems  half-way  be- 
tween the  horizontal  and  the  perpendicular,  over 
stones  and  fallen  trees,  and  through  underbrush 
six  feet  high  and  very  thick,  is  a  question  I  can 
never  hope  to  solve ;  at  any  rate,  we  reached  the 
lower  mill  of  the  company,  about  18  or  20  miles. 
This  was  several  hours  before  noon. 

The  mill  is  situated  in  the  lower  belt  of  tim- 
ber, and  there  are  between  400  and  500  men  at 
work.  This  number  includes  those  engaged  in 
cutting  trees,  hauling  logs,  and  sawing  the  lum- 
ber. How  the  heavy  machinery  of  the  mills, 
and  the  engines  which  work  them  were  brought 
from  the  city  up  the  mountains  and  placed  in 
position,  is  another  mystery  which  I  have  not 
tried  to  investigate. 

The  amount  of  lumber  turned  out  by  the 
owner  of  these  mills,  the  upper  and  the  lower,  the. 
former  being  two  and  one-half  miles  farther  up 
the  mountain,  is  marvellous. 

In  five  minutes'  time,  a  log  from  two  to  four 
feet  in  diameter  is  reduced  to  lumber,  planks, 
scantling,  boards,  and  square  timber,  perhaps  all 
from  the  same  log,  for  it  is  cut  in  the  most  ad- 
vantageous manner.  Sometimes  one  log  will 
give  three  ov  four  different  kinds  of  lumber. 
The  lower  mill  is  kept  running  night  and  day,  and 
has  a  capacity  of  50,000  feet  per  day  of  smali 
stuff,  and  of  '^  'XK)  feet  when  working  on  largi; 
timber. 


f 


23& 


I  together 
s  going  at 
1st  have  a 

Hunter's 
i  from  the 

rhich  tho 
>r  be  had 
lere  floats 
iboiit  ten 

placed  in 
',  so  that 
50  or  100 
is  turned 
reak,  with 
md   them 

-work,  be- 
s  like  the 
y  of  hunt- 
in  active 

ir  journey, 
in  ascent. 
!•  seen  the 
California, 
rk  a  horse 
ugh  which 
y  or  draw. 
)uggy  and 
tlf-way  be- 
cular,  over 
mderljrush 
tion  I  can 
Bached  the 
r  20  miles. 

)elt  of  tim- 

00  men  at 
;ngaged  in 
g  the  lum- 

the  mills, 
;re  brought 
.  placed  ill 

1  have  not 

lut  by  the 
e  lower,  the 
farther  up 

,wo  to  four 
er,  planks, 
perhaps  all 
e  most  ad- 
16  log  will 
of  lumber. 
,nd  day,  an(l 
y  of  small 
ig  on  largi! 


ft- 


SUMMITS  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 

BT  THOMAS  UORAN. 


i    :'■' 


3 


236 


rmm  i^^cirw  roersisr. 


The  upper  mill  has  less  than  half  the  capacity, 
being  smaller,  and  being  worked  only  12  hours 
a  aay. 

T/te  Flume.— The  flume  is  a  wonderful 
piece  of  engineering  work.  It  is  built  wholly 
u{»n  trestle-work,  and  stringers ;  there  is  not  a 
cut  in  the  whole  distance,  and  the  grade  is  so 
heavy  that  there  is  little  danger  of  a  jam. 

The  trestle-work  is  very  substantial,  and  is  un- 
doubtedly strong  enough  to  support  a  narrow 
gauge  railway.  It  runs  over  foot  hills,  through 
valleys,  around  mountains,  and  across  canons. 

In  one  place  it  is  70  feet  high.  The  highest 
point  of  the  flume  from  the  plain,  is  3,700  feet, 
and  on  an  air  line,  from  beginning  to  end,  the 
distance  is  eight  miles,  the  course  thus  taking 
up  seven  miles  in  twists  and  turns.  The  trestle- 
work  is  thoroughly  braced,  longitudinally  and 
across,  so  that  no  break  can  extend  farther  than  a 
single  box,  which  is  16  feet ;  all  the  main  sup- 
ports, which  are  five  feet  apart,  are  flrm'y  set  m 
mud-sills,  and  the  boxes  or  troughs  rest  in  brackets 
four  feet  apart.  These  again  rest  upon  sub- 
stantial stringers.  The  grade  of  the  flumni  is 
between  1,600  and  2,000  feet  from  the  top  to 
lower  end,  a  distance  of  15  miles. 

The  sharpest  fall  is  three  feet  in  six.  There 
are  two  reservoirs  from  which  the  flume  is  fed. 
One  is  1,100  feet  long,  and  the  other  600  feet.  A 
ditch,  nearly  two  miles  long,  takes  the  water  to  the 
firet  reservoir,  whence  it  is  conveyed  3  1-4  miles  to 
the  flulne  through  a  feeder  capable  of  carrying 
450  inches  of  water. 

The  whole  flume  was  built  in  10  weeks.  In 
that  time  all  the  trestle-work,  stringers  and  boxes 
were  put  in  place.  About  200  men  were  employed 
on  it  at  one  time,  being  divided  into  four  gangs. 
It  required  2,009,000  feet  of  lumber,  but  the  item 
w  hich  astonished  me  most  was  that  there  were 
28  tons,  or  56,000  pounds  of  nails,  used  in  the 
construction  of  this  flume. 

To  the  lower  mill,  as  the  road  goes,  it  is  about 
40  miles  from  Virginia  City.  Although  I  had 
already  ridden  this  distance,  yet  I  mounted  a 
horse  and  rode  two  or  three  miles  to  the  top  of 
the  mountain,  where  I  had  one  of  the  finest 
valley  views  that  come  to  ihb  ]ot  of  man.  Miles 
and  miles  below,  the  valley  was  spread  out  with 
spots  and  squares  of  green  crops  growing,  and 
barren  wastes  of  sand  and  sage  brush  reach- 
ing in  a  lon^  stretch  to  the  base  of  another 
spur  of  the  Sierras.  The  City  of  Reno  occupied 
a  little  spot  on  the  plain — from  my  mountain  it 
seemed  like  a  city  of  toy  houses  built  on  Nature's 
carpet. 

A  Hide  in  the  Flume. — Upon  my  return  I 
found  that  Mr.  Flood  and  Mr.  Fair  had  arranged 
for  a  ride  in  the  flume,  and  I  was  challenged  to 
|fO  with  them.  Indeed,  the  proposition  was  put 
in  the  form  of  a  challenge — they  dared  me  to  go. 

I  thought  that  if  men  worth  $25,000,000  or 
#80,000,000  apiece,  could  afEord  to  risk  their  lives. 


I  could  afford  to  risk  mine,  which  was  not  worth 
half  as  much. 

So  I  accepted  the  challenge,  and  two  boala 
were  ordered.  These  were  nothing  more  than 
pig-troughs,  with  one  end  knocked  out.  The 
"  boat "  13  built,  like  the  flumo,  V  shaped,  and 
fits  into  the  flume.     It  is  comixwed  of   three 

{)ieces  of  wood — two  two-inch  planks,  18  feet 
oiig,  and  an  end  Ix)ard  which  is  nailed  about 
two  and  one-half  feet  across  the  top. 

The  forward  end  of  the  boat  was  left  open, 
the  rear  end  closed  wifh  a  board — against  which 
was  to  come  the  current  of  water  to  propel  ua. 
Two  narrow  boards  were  placed  in  the  b^at  for 
seats,  and  everything  was  made  ready.  Mr. 
Fair  and  myself  were  to  go  in  the  first  boat,  and 
Mr.  Flood  and  Mr.  Hereford  in  the  other. 

Mr.  Fair  thought  {hnt,  we  had  better  take  a 
third  man  with  us  who  knew  something  about 
the  flume.  There  were  probably  50  men  from 
the  mill  standing  in  the  vicinity  waiting  to  see 
us  off,  and  when  it  was  proposed  to  take  a  third 
man,  the  question  was  asked  of  them  if  anybody 
was  willing  to  go. 

Only  one  man,  a  red-faced  carpenter,  who  takes 
more  kindly  to  whisky  than  his  bench,  volun- 
teered to  go.  Finally,  everything  was  arranged. 
Two  or  three  stout  men  held  the  boat  over  the 
flume,  and  told  us  to  jump  into  it  the  minute  it 
touched  the  water,  and  to  "  hang  on  to  our  hats." 

The  signal  of  "  all  ready  "  was  given,  the  boat 
was  launched,  and  we  jumped  into  it  as  best  we 
(jould,  which  was  not  very  well,  and  away  we 
went  like  the  wind. 

One  man  who  helped  to  launch  the  boat,  fell 
into  it  just  as  the  water  struck  it,  but  he  scam- 
pered out  on  the  tiestle,  and  whether  he  was 
hurt  or  not,  we  could  not  wait  to  see. 

The  grade  of  the  flume  at  the  mill  is  very 
heavy,  and  the  water  rushes  through  it  at  rail- 
road speed.  The  terrors  of  that  ride  can  never 
be  blotted  from  the  memory  of  one  of  that  party. 
To  ride  upon  the  cow-catcher  of  an  engine  down 
a  steep  grade  is  simply  exhilarating,  for  you 
know  there  is  a  wide  track,  regularly  laid  upon 
a  firm  foundation,  chat  there  are  wheels  grooved 
'  and  fitted  to  the  track,  that  there  are  trusty  men 
at  the  brakes,  and  better  than  all,  you  know  that 
the  power  that  impels  the  train  can  be  rendered 
powerless  in  an  instant  by  the  driver's  light 
touch  upon  his  lever.  But  a  flume  has  no  ele- 
ment of  safety.  In  the  first  place  the  grade  can 
not  be  regulated  as  it  can  on  a  railroad ;  you  can 
not  go  fast  or  slow  at  pleasure ;  you  are  wnolly  at 
'  \e  mercy  of  the  water.  You  can  not  stop ;  you 
can  not  lessen  your  speed ;  you  have  nothing  to 
hold  to;  you  have  only  to  sit  still,  shut  your 
eyes,  say  your  prayers,  take  all  the  water  that 
comes  —  filling  your  boat,  wetting  your  feet, 
drenching  you  like  a  plunge  through  the  surf, — 
and  wait  for  eternity.  It  is  all  there  is  to  hop*^ 
for  after  you  are  launched  in  a  flume-boat.    I 


1 — n 


FMM  ^siClFi€  TOimiSF. 


237 


en  not  give  tho  render  a  better  idea  of  a  fliiiiin 
ride  tliaii  to  coni)>aru  it  to  riding  down  an  old 
iasbioned  eave-troiigh  at  an  angle  of  4.")°,  iiang- 
ing  in  midair  without  support  of  roof  or  house, 
and  thus  siiot  a  distance  of  15  miles. 

At  the  start,  we  went  at  the  rate  of  about  20 
miles  an  hour,  which  is  a  little  less  tiian  the  av- 
erage speed  of  a  railroad  train.  The  reader  can 
have  no  idea  of  the  speed  we  made,  until  he 
compares  it  to  a  railroad.  The  average  time  we 
made  was  30  miles  per  hour — a  mile  in  two  min- 
utes for  the  entire  distance.  This  is  greater 
than  the  average  ninniug  time  of  railroads. 

Incidents  of  the  ttitle. — The  red-faced  car- 
penter sat  in  front  of  our  boat  on  the  bottom,  as 
nest  he  could.  Mr.  Fair  sat  on  a  seat  behind 
him,  and  I  sat  behind  Mr.  Fair  in  the  stern,  and 
was  of  great  service  to  him  in  keeping  the  water, 
which  broke  over  the  end-board,  from  his  back. 

There  was  a  great  deal  of  water  also  shipped 
in  the  bows  of  the  hog-trough,  and  I  know  Mr. 
Fair's  broad  slioiiltlers  kept  me  from  many  a 
wetting  in  that  mi'inorable  trip. 

At  the  iieaviest  grade  the  water  came  in  so 
furiously  in  front,  tliat  it  was  impossible  to  see 
where  we  were  going,  or  what  was  ahead  of  us  ; 
but,  when  the  grade  was  light,  and  we  were  go- 
ing at  a  three  or  four-minute  pace,  the  vision  was 
Tery  delightful,  although  it  was  terrible. 

In  this  ride,  which  fails  me  to  describe,  I  was 
perched  up  in  a  boat  no  wider  than  a  chair,  some- 
times 20  feet  high  in  the  air,  and  with  the 
ever  varying  altitude  of  the  flume,  often  70 
feet  high.  When  tiie  water  would  enable  me  to 
look  ahead,  I  would  see  this  trestle  here  and 
there  for  mil(!s,  so  small  and  narrow,  and  appar- 
ently so  fragile,  that  I  could  only  coiPpare  it  to 
a  chalk-mark,  upon  which,  high  in  the  air,  I  was 
running  at  a  rate  niiknown  upon  railroads. 

One  circumstance  during  the  trip  did  more  to 
show  me  the  terrible  rapidity  with  which  we 
dashed  through  the  flume,  than  anything  else. 
We  had  been  rushing  down  at  a  pretty  lively 
rate  of  speed,  wiien  the  boat  suddenly  struck 
something  in  the  bow — a  nail,  or  lodged  stick  of 
wood,  which  ought  not  to  have  been  there.  What 
was  the  result?  The  red-fad^d  carpenter  was 
sent  whirling  into  the  flume,  10  feet  ahead. 
Fair  was  precipitated  on  his  face,  and  I  found  a 
soft  lodgment  on  Fair's  back. 

It  seemed  to  me  that  in  a  second's  time,  Fair, 
himself  a  powerful  man,  had  the  carpenter  by 
the  scruff  of  the  neck,  and  had  pulled  him  into 
the  boat.  I  did  not  know  that,  at  this  time, 
Fair  had  his  fingers  crushed  between  the  boat 
and  the  flume. 

But  we  sped  along ;  minutes  seemed  hours.  It 
seemed  an  horn-  before  we  arrived  at  the  worst 
place  in  the  flume,  and  yet  Hereford  tells  me  it 
was  less  than  10  minutes.  The  fiume  at  the  point 
alluded  to  must  have  very  near  45**  inclination. 

In  looking  out  before  we  reached  it,  I  thought 


tho  only  way  to  get  to  the  bottom  was  to  fall. 
How  our  boat  kept  in  the  track  is  more  than  I 
know.  The  wind,  the  steamboat,  the  railroad 
never  went  so  fast.  1  have  been  wliere  the  wind 
blew  at  the  rate  of  80  miles  an  hour,  and  yet  my 
breath  was  not  taken  away.  In  the  flume,  in  the 
bad  places,  it  seemed  as  it  I  would  suffocate. 

The  first  bad  place  that  we  reached,  and  if  I 
remember  right,  it  was  the  worst,  I  got  close 
against  Fair.  I  did  not  know  that  1  would  sur- 
vive tho  journey,  but  I  wanted  to  see  how  fast 
we  were  going.  So  I  lay  close  to  him  and  placed 
my  head  between  his  shoulders.  The  water  was 
coming  into  his  face,  like  the  breakers  of  the 
ocean.  When  we  went  slow,  the  breakers  came 
in  on  my  back,  but  when  the  heavy  grades  were 
reached,  the  breakers  were  in  front.  In  one  case 
Fair  shielded  me,  and  in  the  other,  1  shielded 
Fair. 

In  this  particularly  bad  place  I  allude  to,  my  de- 
sire was  to  form  some  judgment  of  the  si>eed  wo 
were  making.  If  the  truth  must  be  .spoken,  I 
was  really  scared  almost  out  of  reason ;  but  if  I 
was  on  the  way  to  eternity,  I  wanted  to  know 
exactly  how  fast  I  weTit;  so  I  huddled  close  to 
Fair,  and  turned  my  eyes  toward  the  hills. 
Kvery  object  I  placed  my  eye  on  was  gone,  be- 
fore I  could  clearly  see  what  it  was.  ^lountaina 
passed  like  visions  and  shadows.  It  was  with 
difficulty  that  I  could  get  my  breath.  I  felt  that 
I  did  not  weigh  an  hundred  iwunds,  although 
T  knew,  in  the  sharpness  c"  ?llect  which  one 
has  at  such  a  moment,  that  '  icalea  turned  at 
tioo  hundred. 

Mr.  Flood  and  Mr.  Hereford,  although  they 
started  several  minutes  later  than  we,  were  close 
upon  us.  They  were  not  so  heavily  loaded,  and 
they  had  the  full  sweep  of  the  water,  while  we 
had  it  rather  at  second  hand.  Their  boat 
finally  struck  ours  with  a  terrible  crash. 

Mr.  Flood  was  thrown  upon  his  face,  and  the 
v  ^,  -  flowed  over  him,  leaving  not  a  dry  thread 
•  .  >  iiim.  What  became  of  Ilereford  I  do  not 
know,  except  that  when  he  reached  the  terminus 
of  the  flume,  he  was  as  wet  as  any  of  us. 

This  only  remains  to  be  said.  We  made  the 
entire  distance  in  less  time  than  a  railroad  train 
wotild  ordinarily  make,  and  a  portion  of  the 
time  we  went  faster  than  a  railroad  train  ever 
went. 

Fair  said  we  went  at  least  a  mile  a  minute. 
Flood  said  we  went  at  the  rate  of  100  miles  an 
hour,  and  my  deliberate  belief  is  that  we  went 
at  8  r?te  that  annihilated  time  and  space.  We 
were  a  wet  lot  when  we  reached  the  terminus  of 
the  flume.  Flood  said  he  would  not  make  the 
trip  again,  for  the  whole  Consolidated  Virginia 
Mine. 

Fair  said  that  he  should  never  again  place  him- 
self on  an  equality  with  timber  and  wood,  and 
Hereford  said  he  was  sorry  that  he  ever  built  the 
flume.     As  for  myself,  I  told  the  millionaire  that 


238 


I  had  accepted  my  last  challenge.     When  wo  left 
our  boats  wo  were  more  dead  tlian  .dive. 

We  hail  yet  1(5  miles  to  drive  to  Vinriiiia  City. 
How  wo  reached  home,  the  reader  will  nev<'r 
know.  I  asked  Flood  what  J  was  to  do  with  n>y 
spoiled  suit  of  English  clothes.  lie  hade  me 
good  night,  with  the  remark  that  my  clothes  were 
good  enough  to  give  away.  Tlio  next  day, 
neither  Flood  nor  Fair  were  able  to  leave  then- 
bed.  For  myself,  I  had  oidy  strength  enough 
Itjft  to  say,  "  1  hare  had  enough  of  Jlumes." 


/r 


BEXO  TO  HAN  FliAyVISCO. 

Proceeding  from  Reno,  directly  to  San  Fran- 
eiaco,  the    line    of    tlie    railroad  is   along  the 

Truckee   River.  , 

The    meadows 

grow    narrower,  ^^"\ 

and   the   mount-  ^ " 

ains  approach  on 

either   side,   then 

widen    again     in 

Pleasant  Vallev. 

Verdi— \^  234 
miles  east  of  San 
Francisco,  has 
three  stores  and  a 
planing  mill :  de- 
rives its  impor- 
tance from  the 
lumber  trade,  and 
its  notoriety  from 
the  robbery  o  f 
the  express  and 
mail  cars,  of  an 
overland  train. 

The  scenery  is 
now  becoming 
fine;  Crystal  Peak 
may  be  seen  on 
the  right,  and  win- 
ter moonlight 
night&  will  add 
charms  to  make 
the  views  more 
lovely  and  unique 
between  this  iwmt 
and  T  •  u  c  Ic  e  e . 
Then  the  mount- 
ains, deluded  at 
their  ba^e  of  all 
timber,  and  the 
shrubs  and  st;<mps 
buried  in  deep 
snow  are  of  un- 
broken, silvery 
white,    while   the 


<^.  '^^ 


while  exulting  clouds,  glide  smoothly  and  silently 
along  the  azure  sky. 

Tlie  Truckee  River  foams,  as  its  rapid  waters 
battle  with  Ww  rocks,  and  it  is  crossed  and  re- 
crossed  on  Howe  truss  bridges,  and  tlie  inouiil- 
ains,  often  precipitous,  show  their  volcanic  origin 
in  ma.sse8  of  basaltic  rock. 

EnHcx,  233,  and  Mystic,  227  miles  from  San 
Francifloo,  are  sitle  tracks  at  which  passengers 
trains  do  not  stop. 

liroiu'o  is  2'23  miles  from  San  Francisco. 
Soon  after  leaving  tlio  station  there  will  bo 
noticed  a  post  marked  "State  Line,"  stand- 
ing on  the  one  hundred  and  twentieth  meridian 
west  of  Washington,  D.  C,  and  this  passed, 
-_  the  traveler  is  in 

the  CJoidtui  State 
of  California. 

Between  Rroneo 
and  Hoca,  at  what 
was  Camp  18,  a 
Hag  station  has 
ji  V)een  located 
amed  Dover. 
Yf,— a  tel'<v 
gi.ipu  station,  is 
218  miles  from 
San  Francisco, 
with  a  ixipulation 
of  about  150.  It 
is  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Little  Truckee 
River,  and  is  the 
Spanish  name  for 
"  mouth."  T  h  e 
only  business  is 
that  of  the  Boca 
Lumber  Mill  and 
Ice  Company,  and 
the  Boca  lirewery, 
the  latter  the  larg- 
est on  the  Pacific 
Coast,  and  on  ac- 
count of  the  equa- 
ble temperature, 
expected  to  pro- 
duce the  best  lager- 
beer  in  the  world. 
About8,0(»0tonsof 
ice  are  cut  yearly 
from  the  pona. 
The  cold  is  some- 
times severely  felt, 
the  mercury 
standing  at  22"  be- 
lowzeroduringthft 
winter  of  1875-6. 


-^M^, 


d^i 


lofty  pines,  farther  up  the  steep  sides  or  on  the 
rounding  tops,  form  a  veil  of  green,  and  above 
all  irregular,  fleecy  clouds  float  fantastically  by, 
as  if  a  silvery  mist  in  the  valleys  was  rising  over 
the  dark  peaks,  mingling  light  of  many  shades, 


SNOW  8RED8  ACROSS  THE  SIERRAS. 

I'voHHer  Creek— ia  216  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco at  the  mouth  of  a  creek  of  the  same  name, 
called  from  a  hotel  keeper  in  early  days.  It  is  a 
flag  station,  and  the  terminus  of  a  flume  for  sev- 
eral milling  stations,  and  the  ice-field  for  two 


m 


TME  ^meiFw  woummr. 


280 


Continu- 


compaiiieH  that  Rupply  Kim  Francisco, 
ing  west  '.\.'>\  inihis,  wn  rt'iich 

J'i'fictoi''M,— 212  miles  from  San  Fraiiciwco, 
hut  trains  <lo  not  stop.  On  tiitt  left  will  Im 
noticed  a  largo  tract  of  flat  land  covered  witli 
timber,  or  stumps,  and  a  ranelie  or  two.  Across 
tliis  and  over  the  range  of  hills  l>eyond,  lies 
liuke  Tahoe,  but  keeping  to  the  river,  3."_'  miles 
from  I'roctor's,  wo  reach 

Tt'tu'kee, — 209  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
the  dividing  line  between  the  'J'ruckee  and 
Sacramento  divisions  of  the  railroad,  with 
a  roundhouse  for  24  engines.  It  has  one 
weekly  newspaper,  the  Republican,  and  is  the 
most  import- 
ant town  in 
the  Sierras,  on 
account  of  the 
business  done, 
as  a  summer 
resort,  and  be- 
cause of  its 
convenitinceto 
other  favorite 
resorts.  It  is 
the  seat  of  a 
large  lumber 
trade,  and 
would  be  ben- 
efited by  the 
establishment 
of  an  exten- 
sive fire  insur- 
ance business. 
The  town  was 
l>urned  in 
1808,  1809, 
twice  in  1870, 
in  1874,  and 
"ChinaTowu" 
in  1875. 

The  prevail- 
ing winds  are 
west,  and  in 
summer  one 
might  think 
the  great  width  of  tlie  street  is  designed  to  pre- 
vent fires  from  the  locomotive  sparks,  but  in 
winter  the  more  probable  suggestion  is  that 
it  is  for  the  convenience  of  piling  up  the  snow 
when  the  people  shovel  out  their  houses.  The 
pojiulation  is  about  2,000,  nearly  one-third  of 
which  are  Chinamen.  A  large  number  of  good 
stores  are  arranged  on  the  north  side  of  the 
street,  and  considerable  trade  carried  on  with 
Sierra  and  Pleasant  Valleys  on  the  north. 

The  Truckee  Hotel,  -where  the  tram  stops, 
is  a  very  popular  resort,  the  tablo  being 
always  supplied  in  season  with  the  choicest 
trout  and  game.  Many  desiring  the  bene- 
fit of  mountain  air,  and  the  convenience  of 
the  i-ailroad,   spend  their  summer  mouths  in 


OALLERY  IN  SNOW  SHEDS,  C.  P.  B.  R. 


Truckee,   from   which  Donnor  Lako  is  distant 
onlv  two  miles,  and  Tahoe  I 'J. 

Stages  leave  Truckee  on  Tuesdays,  Tliuradays 
and  Saturdays  for  Randolph,  28  miles,  time  four 
hours,  and  fare  iJ4 ;  Sierraville,  21)  miles,  time 
four  and  one-fourth  hours,  fare  iSl ;  Sierra  City, 
00  miles,  time  ten  hours,  fare  ^8;  Downieville, 
72  miles,  time  twelve  hours,  fare  i^lO;  .Jamison 
City,  00  miles,  time  ten  hours,  fare  i8l8,  and  Eu- 
reka Mills,  58  nules,  time  ten  and  on«!-half  hours, 
fare  $8.  On  Alondays.Wednesdays,  and  Fridays 
for  Loyalton,  'M  miles,  time  five'hours,  fare  $4; 
Beckwith,  45  miles,  time  seven  and  one-half 
hours,  fare  !ii5. 

The  stages 
leaving  on 
Mondays. 
Wednesdays 
and  Fridays, 
are  also  the 
stages  for 
Webner  Lake, 
16  miles  north 
of  Truckee, 
and Independ- 
ence  Lake, 
about  the 
same  distance. 
At  each  of 
these  is  a  good 
hotel. 

Webber 
Lake  is  about 
the  size  of 
Donner,  en- 
circled by 
high,  8  n  o  w^ 
capped  mount< 
ain.s,  but  beau- 
tified by  a 
rim  of  fer- 
tile meadow 
around  ita 
pebbly  beach. 
Webber 
Lake  is  one  of 
the  most  popuxar  resorts  for  trout  fishing  on 
the  coast.  The  accommodations  are  excellent, 
and  tlie  fish  plentiful.  It  has,  perhaps,  no  rival 
except  the  McCloud  River  and  Castle  Lake, 
near  Mount  Shasta.  The  tourist  wha  stops  a 
few  days  to  sojourn  ai  Webber  will  be  amply  re- 
paid both  in  scenery  and  sport.  Stages  leave 
the  summit  daily,  passing  along  Donner  Lake  to 
Truckee,  thence  to  Tahoe  City  on  Lake  Tahoe. 
Fare  from  the  summit  to  Tahoe,  $2.50.  Truckee 
to  Tahoe,  $2;  John  F.  Moody,  of  the  Truckee 
Hotel,  also  runs  an  elegant  open  coach,  of  the  Kim- 
ball Manufacturing  Company,  between  Truckee 
and  Tahoe  City,  daily,  fare  ^2  ;  and  Campbell's 
stages  leave  every  niorring  for  Campbell's  Hot 
Springs  on  Lak«  Tahoe, 


?) 


11 


m 


240 


rSM  ^aiCiFt€  JPQ^StSr. 


A  Snow-Storm  at  Trtiehee. — At  mid- 
night, the  mountain  peaks  stood  clear  and  white, 
with  deep  shadows  here  and  ther  •,  and  above,  a 
cloudless  sky  ;  but,  at  davliwVit,  a  ioi  of  new 
sjiow  lay  upon  many  previous  s/iow3. 

The  one-story  houses  were  hid  fron  view. 
AVhilethe  air  was  full  of  falling  flakes,  bus  '  men 
were  shoveling  off  the  roofs  of  their  dwellii.rs — 
shoveling  all  the  while,  and  half  a  hund-ed 
Chinamen  were  loading  cars  with  snow  from  t.\e 
I'ailroad  track  to  throw  it  down  some  stet  i 
mountain  side.  Alen  are  coming  in  with  their 
shoes  in  hand — not  number  thirteens,  but — thir- 
teen feet  long,  and  stand  them  up  against  tiie 
wall. 

These  snow- 
shoes  are  about 
six  inches  wide, 
turned  up  in 
front  like  the 
r  u  n  n  e  r  of  n 
skate,  and  wax- 
ed to  make 
them  slip  easi- 
ly over  the 
snow.  Near  the 
middle  is  a 
leather  that 
laces  over  the 
instep  (a  skele- 
ton nalf-.shoe), 
and  out  of 
which  the  foot 
will  slip  in  case 
of  a  fall  or  acci- 
dent. 

A  long  pole 
is  carried  like 
a  rope-da.  icer's 
to  preserve  a 
balance,  and  to 
straddle  and  sit 
u  p  o  n  f  ()  r  a 
brake,  when 
descending  a 
hill.  'J'hey  are 
essential  to 
safety  in  these 
storms. 


.-<  ^^.v 


MARY'S   LAKK,   MIKKOK  VIKW, 


As  I  watched  the  falling  snow,  nothing  to\ild 
exceed  tlie  beauty.  As  it  curled  and  shot 
through  the  air,  the  moimtains  were  sliut  out 
with  a  gauzy  veil  and  darker  mists.  Now  Mid 
then  I  caught  aglimp.se  of  a  clump  cf  pii:eson 
the  mountain  side,  indistinct  and  gray  in  shfidow, 
and  as  the  fitful  snow  favored  the  strairiing  eye, 
the  long  white  boughs  seemed  bending  as  if  con- 
scious of  the  enormous,  weight  that  threatened 
ever  •  living  thing. 

M"  h«*'r  the  clouds  y)roke  suddenly  away,  a  flood 
of  golden  light  leafK^d  from  hill  to  hill.  'Jlie  tall 
pines,  partly  green,   but  now  lik«  pyramids  of 


snow,  lilt  their  heads  above  the  mountain  sideR. 
Hut  in  less  than  fifteen  minutes  after  the  first 
sight  of  the  sun,  a  long  stratum  of  dark  cloud 
came  down  the  inountain,  and  the  snow  fails 
thicker  and  faster  than  ever.  Its  hard  crystals 
were  driven  so  furiously  as  to  make  one's  cneeks 
burn,  and  give  exquisite  torture  to  the  eyelids. 
I  looked  ujwn  the  rapid  river,  and  ar'i^Mud  its 
snow-ciippeil  rocks  the  water  played  m  foaming 
cascades. 

The  enormous  snow-plows  at  length  grappled 
with  this  monster  of  tlie  elements. 

From  east  and  west  came  reports  of  ava- 
lanches, snow  sheds  down,  trains  wrecked  and 
snow-bound,  and  soon  the  telegraph  refused  to 

do  its  bidding. 
The  iwnder- 
oue  e  n  g  i  n  <■ ., 
were  liirowu 
from  the  rails 
in  the  streets, 
before  our  eyes, 
by  the  h  a  r  d 
crystals  which 
they  crushed 
into  glacier-like 
ice.  With  five 
of  them  behind 
the  ,i  a  r  g  e  8  t 
snow-]ilow  o  n 
the  road,  we 
started  toward 
the  summit. 
The  snow  flew 
and  eve  n 
the  p  r  o  u  n  d 
trembled,  and 
every  piece  of 
the  short  snow 
sheds  was  wel- 
comed with  joy 
and  misgiving. 
The  bliiulini,' 
snow, I  thought, 
will  cease  to 
fly,  but  siip[X).s(- 
that,  when 
crushed  inUi  ico 
like  granite,  it 
lifts  tlie  ponderous  plow  of  30  tons,  or  that  we  go 
ijrashing  into  the  shed  prostrate  beneath  twenty 
or  fortv  feet  of  snow ;  or  that  an  avalanche  I'.'is 
oome  down  and  our  way  lies  througli  thn  tangled 
trunks  of  these  huge  Sierra  pince* ;  five  boi'ors 
behind  that  may  soon  be  on  top  of  us. 

Never  before  did  I  realize  the  need  of  the 
snow  sheds,  but  I  often  rebelled  against  the  shut- 
ting out  of  nature's  mountain  charms  from  tli" 
weary  or  unoccupied  traveler. 

Let  the  discontented  not  forget  tliat  five  feet 
of  snow  may  fall  in  one  day ;  that  twenty  and 
thirty  feet  may  lie  all  over  the  ground  at  one 


Of 


241 


M 


lin  sideR. 
the  first 
Ilk  cloud 
now  fails 
I  crystals 
;'s  cheeks 
B  eyelids, 
round  its 
i  foaming 

grappled 

!  of  ava- 
•cked  and 
•eiused  to 
}  bidding, 
e  ^wnder- 
!  n  g  i  n  <"  - 
e    liirown 

tlie  rails 
le  streets, 
e  our  eyes, 
he  h  a  r  d 
als  which 
y  crushed 
Ljlacier-like 

With  five 
iom  Iwhiud 

largest 
,-jilow    o  n 

road,  we 
;ed   toward 

.s  u  m  ni  i  t . 

snow  Hew 

i      even 

ground 

iliU'd,    and 


y   piece 


of 
slinrt  snow 
s  was  wel- 
ed  with  joy 

missiviuij;. 
e  bjiiulint,' 
IV,  1  thought, 
cease  to 
but  .supix)se 
it.  when 
ihi'd  into  ice 

granite,  it 
r  that  we  go 
•ath  twenty 
alauche  has 

the  tangled 

five  boi'ers 
s. 

leed  of  the 
list  the  shut^ 
ns  from  the 

lat  five  feet 

twenty  and 

)und  at  one 


TUNKKL  NO.  12,  STRONO'S  rANON. 


citne;  that  forty  and  fifty  feet  are  .so?netimes  to 
be  seen,  where  tlie  road-bed  is  8ecur«i  beneath  it, 
iuid  that  the  canons  often  contain  a  hundred 
fact. 

These  capacious  reservoirs  are  the  pledge  of 
amiiiner  fruitfulness.  A  winter  scene  u  the.se 
Sierras  without  even  the  sight  of  r;i  friendly 
hniin,  will  beget  a  fondne.ss  for  the  ?■  ovr  sheds 
tliiit  the  summer  touri.st  cannot  imagine,  and  a 
better  ai)preciatioa  of  the  Iwldness  and  daring 
of  the  men  who  brave  the  hardships  of  these 
niiMuitain  storms,  and  peril  their  lives  at  every 
8tt'i>  for  other's  safety.  Day  and  night  I  saw 
thn  servants  of  the  public,  from  highest  to  low- 
est, haggard  and  worn,  yet  never  ceasing  in  their 
battle  against  the  tremendous  storm,  and  was 
ovorwhelmed  thinking  of  our  indebtedness  to 
their  energy,  skill  and  endurance,  as  well  as  by 
viewing  the  wonderful  works  of  God.  "The 
feeding  of  the  rivers  and  the  purifying  of  the 
winds  ar«  the  leas',  of  the  services  appointed  to 
the  hills.  To  fill  the  ihirst  of  the  human  heart 
with  the  beauty  of  God's  working,  t43  startle  its 
letliargv  with  the  deep  and  pure  agitjvtion  of 
»."^ti)tiishment  are  their  higher  missions." 

iSnow  Slieds.— The  snow  sheds,  so  important 


to  winter  travel,  are  found  east  of  Strong's  Canon 
Station,  and  west  of  Emigrant  Gap,  wherever 
there  is  no  side  hill,  and  the  removal  of  the  snow 
would  be  difficult  for  the  plow.  Between  these 
two  stations,  they  are  without  break,  except  for 
tunnels  and  bridges.  In  all,  there  are  about  40 
miles  of  the  sheds. 

They  are  of  two  kinds,  the  flat  roof,  built  t 
hold  the  weight  of  25  or  30  feet  of  snow,  or  slide 
it  down  the  mountain  side,  and  those  with  the 
pitched  or  steep  roof,  and  *'  batter  brace."  The 
massiveness  of  the  hugs  pine  trunks,  or  sawed 
timbers,  twelve  or  sixteen  inches  on  a  side,  may 
be  easily  seen  from  the  cars.  The  cost  per  mile 
varied  from  $8,000  to  $10,000,  and  where  it  was 
necessary  to  build  heavy  retaining  walls  of  ma- 
sonry, some  dry  and  some  cement  walls,  the  cjst 
was  at  the  rate  of  $30,000  per  mile.  Sometimes 
the  heavy  square  timbers  are  bolted  to  the  solid 
ledge,  that  avalanches  may  be  carried  by,  and 
the  sheds  remain. 

At  a  distance  the  sheds  look  small,  but  they 
are  high  enough  to  insure  the  safety  of  breaks 
men  who  pass  over  the  tops  of  the  freight  cars. 

During  the  summer  months  when  everything 
is  sun-scorched,  the  destruction  of  the  feheds  by 


K, 


t   :H 


'W 


■r 


242 


rmm  i^siciFie  retmisr. 


II  i^ 


f 


fire  is  often  imminent,  and  threat  loss  has  been 
suffered  in  this  way.  To  prevent  fires,  the 
greatest  precaution  is  used,  and  the  most 
effective  measures  adopted  to  extinguish  a  con- 
flagration. At  short  intervals,  both  sides  and 
roof  are  of  corrugated  iron  to  stop  the  progress  of 
a  fire,  and  the  whole  line  from  Strong's  Cano'i  to 
Emigrant  Gap,  provided  with  automatic  fire- 
alarms,  telegraphing  the  place  of  danger,  and  at 
the  summit  is  a  train  with  tanks,  and  the  engine 
ready  to  become  instantly  a  well-equipped  fire- 
brigade. 

Near  Truckee  the  railroad  leaves  the  river 
which  turns  to  the  south,  and  it  follows  Donner 
Creek,  the  outlet  of  Donner  Lake,  for  a  short  dis- 
tance and  then  turns  up  the  great  and  magnifi- 
cent canon  of  Cold  Stream  Creek,  in  a  direction 
nearly  south-west.  Before  leaving  Donner 
Creek,  we  are  hard  by 

"  Starvation  Camp,"  where  in  the  yinter  of 
1846-7  a  company  oi  eighty-two  persons,  coming 
to  California,  were  overtaken  by  snow,  lost  their 
cattle,  and  were  reduced  to  such  straits  that 
many  survivors  fed  on  the  remains  of  their 
starved  companions.  The  company  comprised 
eighty-two  persons,  of  whom  thirty-two  were 
females,  a  lar^e  proportion  of  the  whole  being 
children.  Thirty-six  perished,  of  whom  twenty- 
six  were  males.  Of  a  party  of  thirteen,  who 
went  out  for  help,  ten  perished.  Relief  was  sent 
to  the  company,  but  it  was  im^wssible  to  save 
all.      Mrs.   Donner,   when   the   alternative   was 

Presented  her,  early  in  March,  of  leaving  her 
usband,  and  going  away  with  her  children,  or 
remaining  with  him  and  soon  perishing,  refused 
to  abandon  him,  and  when,  in  April,  the  six)t 
was  visited  again,  his  body  was  found  carefully 
dressed  and  laid  out  by  Iier.  How  long  Khe  sur- 
vived him  is  not  known.  The  sufferings  of  this 
party  were  insignificant  in  amount  when  com- 
pared with  the  whole  aggregate  of  misery  en- 
dured in  the  early  peopling  or  California  by  the 
Overland,  the  Cape  Horn,  and  the  Panama  Bioute, 
but  no  other  talc  connected  with  these  early  days 
is  so  harrowing  in  its  details  as  tliis,  and  no  one 
thinking  of  Donner  Lake,  turns  from  its  quiet 
and  beauty,  to  think  of  this  tragedy  that  gave  it 
its  name,  without  a  shudder. 

The  old  road  across  the  mountains  to  Sutter's 
Fort,  followed  up  the  Cold  Stream,  where  snows 
no  longer  forbid  a  passage  across  the  dangerous 
summits. 

Along  and  rounding  this  Cold  Stream  Canon 
are  the  finest  views  on  the  eastern  side  of  the 
Sierras,  not  shut  out  by  snow  sheds  from  the 
traveler  by  rail.  The  canon  is  wide  and  long, 
and  far  alx)ve  and  across,  tlie  road-bed  is  cut  on 
the  steep  mountain  side,  and  then  protected  by 
long  snow  sheds  till  at  last  it  enters  tunnel  No.  13. 
Looking  up  the  canon,  on  the  right,  soon  after 
entering,  of  back,  after  the  Horse-Snue  Curve 
has  been  made,  a  long  line  of  pui-ple  pyramids 


and  jagged  precipices  surround  the  valley,  and  if 
the  road  is  not  at  the  bottom  of  everything,  thii 
enormous  face  of  the  mountain  seems  to  forbid 
the  most  daring  attempt  to  ascend.  But  upwanl 
— still  looking  back  to  the  valley  of  the  Truckee 
far  below,  and  the  train  reaches 

Strouij^tt  Cunou, — 20r  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, w  Inch  is  a  side  track,  telegraph  office  and 
turn-table,  for  snow-plows,  principally.  Cold 
Stream  must  not  be  confounded  with  Strong's 
Canon,  for  the  latter  will  not  be  reached  till  the 
train  has  passed  half-way  along  the  lofty  wall  of 
Donner  Lake.  .The  station  was  originally  a* 
Strong's  Canon,  but  was  afterward  moved  to  tun- 
nel No.  13,  the  point  where  the  road  leaves  Cold 
Stream  Canon. 

Donner  Lake — the  gem  of  the  Sierras,  is  just 
below,  and  the  vigilant  eye  will  be  rewarded  by 
a  sight  of  it  through  the  observation  holes  in 
the  snow  sheds,  and  when  the  train  crosses  a 
bridge  in  doubling  Strong's  Canon.  After  leav- 
ing this  Canon,  the  road-ued  is  cut  out  of  rougli, 
rugged,  granite  rocks  ;  and  before  the  summit  is 
reached,  it  has  passed  through  the  seventh  tun- 
nel from  Cold  Stream.  These  are  almost  indi;- 
tinguih;hable  from  the  sombre  snow  sheds,  and 
Nos.  11  and  12  and  likewise  7  and  8,  are  almost 
continuous.  The  longest  are  Nos.  13  and  G,  Hk^ 
lOimer  870  feet,  and  the  latter,  1,659  feet,  and 
the  longest  on  the  line  of  the  road.  Emel•gin^' 
from  tunnel  No.  G,  the 

Stun  in  it, -195  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is 
announced,  and  the  train  is  ready  to  descend 
rapidly  to  the  valley  of  the  Sacramento.  It  is  a 
dav  and  night  telegraph  station,  and  has  an  alti 
tude  of  7,017  feet— 119.8  feet  alwve  Truckee  - 
and  is  the  highest  p«nnt  on  tlie  line  of  the  road. 
Many  of  the  surrounding  peaks  are  two  and 
three  thousand  feet  higher. 

The  Sununit  House  is  the  largest  hotel  alonsj 
the  line  of  the  road,  acconnnodates  150  guests, 
and  is  one  of  the  most  )x)pular  in  the  Sierras. 

One  who  lets  the  train  go  by,  to  climb  to 
the  top  of  the  ridge  through  which  the  tuiuiel 
leads,  or  some  higher  peak,  will  never  be  son  v, 
for  an  enchanting  panorama  will  be  unrolled. 

Summit  Valley,  with  its  bright  pastures,  and 
warm  with  life,  while  it  touches  bleak  rocks,  and 
receives  the  shade  of  the  inhospitable  pine  «t 
the  drip  of  the  snow — one  of  the  loveliest  val- 
leys at  such  an  altitude-^es  toward  the  setting 
sun.  In  the  rim  that  iKuts  out  the  sontli-wist 
wind,  towers  the  Devil's  Peak,  a  bold  cliff  rising 
from  out  of  wild  surroundings;  and  follow iup; 
the  ridge  eastward  with  t\w  eye,  and  avoniid 
toward  the  point  of  vision,  there  are  proniinnit, 
Old  Man's  I'eak,  just  across  the  valley,  slia])- 
ened  by  the  winti-y  storms  of  his  long  life,  and 
on  the  main  ridge.  Mount  Lincoln,  9,200  feet  hi_h, 
and  Doinier  Peak,  2,000  fset  above  the  railroad, 
and  3,200  above  the  lake  that  sleeps  in  qmot 
beauty  at    its    base;   and    across   the    railr^id 


243 


I'i 


;,  and  it 
iiig,  thii 

0  forbid 
upwaiil 

Truckeo 

an  Fran- 
ffice  anil 

^.  Colli 
Strong's 
i  till  the 
;y  wall  of 
finally  it^ 
erl  to  tun- 
aves  Colli 

as,  is  just 
varded  by 

1  holes  in 
crosses  a 

A-fter  leav- 
\,  of  rougl), 

summit  is 
venth  tun- 
most  indi:-- 

sheds,  anil 
are  almost 

and  G,  Ih'^ 

9  feet,  anil 

EmerginL; 

I'rancisco,  is 

[to  desciTil 

to.     It  is  IV 

las  an  alti- 

Iruckec  - 

the  roail. 

two  and 


)f 


re 

hotel  along 
150  guests, 
^  sierras, 
to   climb  to 
the  tunni'l 
•er  be  purry, 
unrolled, 
astuves,  and 
I  rocks,  and 
ible  pine  it 
oveliest  val- 
the  settiiiR 
le  soutli-N\ist 
d  cliff  vising 
lid  follow inR 
anil  avomul 
R  nromini'nt, 
■alley,  shaijv 
ong  lift'-  and 
i(K)  feet  hi, -li. 
the  raihv.i'l, 
epa  in  qmot 
the    railnud 


s 


n 


H 

i 


n 


S 


w 

< 


244 


i 


u 


I 

l! 
Il 


the  peak  from  which  IMerstadt  sketched  the 
"  Gem "  beneath.  Then  there  are  a  thousand 
other  charms  in  the  vast  heights  above,  and 
Tast  depths  below ;  in  contrasts  of  liglit  and 
shade,  form  and  color ;  in  mists  hanging  over 
the  lake,  and  clouds  clinging  to  the  peaks ;  in 
the  twilight  deepening  into  darkness,  or  colossal 
pyres,  kindled  by  the  coming  sun,  and  going  out 
in  the  clear  light  of  the  day  ;  or.  in  the  gloom  of 
the  forest  mingled  with  the  living  silver  of  the 
moonlit  lake. 

The  peaks 
may  be  ascend- 
ed—  some  with 
difficulty,  and 
some  with  mod- 
erate exertion — 
but  persons  of 
feeble  constitu- 
tion may  enjoy 
all  the  varied 
charms. 

The  lake  is  of 
easy  access,  and 
has  on  its  banks 
a  hotel  for  tour- 
ists. The  dis- 
tance to  the  lake 
by  the  carriage 
road  is  2  1-2 
miles,  and 
Truckee  9  miles. 
The  summit  di- 
vides the  waters 
that  flow  east 
and  sink  amid 
desert  sands, 
from  those  that 
flow  west  into 
the  Sacrameuto 
river. 

Summit 
Valley— 2>i 
miles  long  and 
one  mile  wide, 
heads  in  the 
high  peaks 
south  of  the  hoteh  It  has  pasturage  during 
the  summer  for  many  cattle,  and  its  springs  and 
abundance  of  products  fresh  from  the  dairy 
make  it  a  delightful  place  for  camping  out. 
Its  waters  are  the  source  of  the  South  Fork  of 
the  South  Yuba  River.  The  nvilroad  descends 
to  the  foot  of  this  valley,  keeping  the  divide  on 
the  north  to  the  right,  then,  about  three  miles 
from  the  summit,  crosses  the  most  southerly 
branch  of  the  Yuba.  A  few  yards  before  the 
crossing  is  a  summer  flag  station,  or 

Soda  Springs  Station — 192  miles  from 
San  Francisco.  These  springs  are  situated  on 
tiie  south  side  of  the  iiigh  ridge  that  forms 
the   Boutiiem    wall    of   Summit   Valley,    and 


LAKE  AXOELtNE. 


are  in  the  headwaters  of  the  American  River. 
They  are  numerous,  flow  abundantly,  and  are 
highly  medicinal.  Stages  run  to  them  both 
from  the  summit,  and  Irom  Soda  Station,  and 
the  ride  is  not  surpassed,  if  equaled,  by  aii\  in 
the  Sierras  north  of  Yosemite,  in  the  number 
and  beauty  of  the  fine  views  it  affords. 

The  hotel  at  the  Springs  is  not  an  imposing 
structure,  but  it  is  kept  in  first-class  style  and  is 
a  favorite  resort. 

The  dividing  ridge,  which  the  railroad  now 

follows,  isontho 
left,  and  on  the 
riglit  are  great 
ridges  and  can- 
ons, which  gath- 
er more  water 
for  the  Yuba. 
Their  extent 
alone  impresses 
the  beholder 
with  awe,  but 
the  snow  sheds 
al'ow  no  sati.s- 
faciory  view. 

The  first  reg- 
ular  station 
after  leaving  the 
sununit  is  5.8 
miles  west, 
called 

Cascade, — 
189  miles  from 
San  Francisco. 
The  vertical  di'- 
scent  from  tin; 
summit  to  this 
point  is  498  feet, 
and  n  o  t  h  i  n  <; 
here  will  check 
one's  readii;<'.'<3 
to  descend  far- 
ther, for  it  i.s 
only  a  signal 
station,  ami 
there  are  lume 
to  signal,  ex- 
cept such  as  are  employed  on  the  road. 

S'  ith  of  the  station  are  Kidd's  Lakes,  emi>ly- 
ing  into  the  South  Branch  of  the  South  Yuba 
through  the  Upper  and ^jlwer  Cascade  Raviius. 
Til''  bridges  over  the  rj^es  will  be  a  gratitiil 
but  short-lived  relief  from  the  restraint  of  tlio 
snow  sheds.  The  time  in  passing  is  too  short  to 
take  in  the  charms  of  the  water-falls  in  sumnur, 
or  the  ice-clad  rocks  in  winter,  and  the  extend'  d 
/iew  on  the  right. 

Kidd's  Lakes  are  dammed  so  as  to  impound  tln^ 
water  during  the  winter  and  spring,  and  wli<  ii 
the  dry  season  approaches,  it  is  let  out  over  tin; 
Cascades  into  tlie  river  and  carried,  eventually,  w 
Dutch  tiaU 


245 


,n  River. 

and  are 

em    both 

tion,  and 

by  au_\  in 
!  number 

iraposinp 
y\ti  and  is 

road  now 
s,  isontho 
nd  on  the 
are  great 
1  and  can- 
hich  gath- 
ore  water 
he    Yuba. 

•  extent 
impressf's 

l)e  h  o  1  d  e  r 
awe,  but 
mow  sheds 
no  satis- 
ry  view. 
le  first  rcg- 

•  station 
leaving  till! 
nit  is  5.8 
es  -west, 
d 

ascadef  — 
miles  from 

Francisoii. 

vertical  <i<'- 

froni   tlif 

mit  to  this 

t  is  498  feet, 

nothing 

will  check 

reauii".''S3 

lescend   far- 

for    it    is 

a  signal 

tion,  and 

6   .are   none 

lignal,  ex- 

■oad. 

ikes,  empty- 
south  Yuba 
ide  Ravines. 
e  a  grattful 
raint  of  tlio 
too  short  to 
in  sumni'i", 
,he  extend"! 

impound  tin* 
and  wli'  a 
out  over  tlio 
iventually,  w 


:^/:^^  •■'^ 


i^^ii^'^^^'y 


'^  ^. 


SOEITERY  OF  TBK  SIERRAS,  N  SAR  SUMKIT. 


There  is  a  great  spu'-,  called  "Crockers" 
thrown  out  in  this  ridge,  through  which  the 
road  passes  in  tunnel  No.  5,  I  thence  along 
Stanford  Bluffs  to 

Tamurmk, — 1S5  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
another  signal  station.  A  stop  will  not  be 
likely,  unless  to  meet  or  pass  a  freight  train.  A 
small  saw-mill  is  in  operation  during  part  of  the 
year.  Just  below  Tamarack,  the  Y'uba  has  worn 
a  large  gorge,  and  the  bold  bluffs,  which  unfor- 
tunately are  below  the  road-bed,  have  been  called 
"  New  Hampshire  Rocks,"  and  the  name  may 
well  suggest  that  the  Granite  State  will  sooii 
cease  to  be  regarded  as  the  "  Switzerland  of 
America." 

The  road  contii  'os  on  the  north  or  Yuba  side 
of  the  divide,  bet\.  I'n  the  waters  of  the  Yuba 
and  America.-  Rivers;  and  between  Tamarack 
and  Cisco,  Rea  Spur  and  Trap  Spur  are  passed 
by  tunnels  No.  4  and  Xo.  3.  Three  and  a  h'.df 
miles  from  Tamarack  is 

Cinro, — 182  miles  from  San  Francisco,  a  day 
and  night  telegraph  stat:«u,  wu'i  an  elevation 
of  5,939  feet.  It  was  named  after  John  J.  Cisco, 
the  sterling,   assistant  tr""'<'urer  of  the*  United 


States,  at  New  York  City,  during  the  late  civil 
war.  Cisco  was  for  a  year  and  a  half  the  ter- 
minus of  the  road,  and  lively  with  ))usines3  for 
the  construction  of  the  road,  and  for  Nevada. 
It  had  a  population  of  7,000,  and  some  oVellings 
erected  at  a  cost  of  $5,000 ;  large  warehouses,  and 
all  the  intensity  of  frontier  life.  After  the  re- 
moval of  the  terminus  to  Truckee,  the  deserted 
buildings  were  either  taken  down  and  removed 
or  went  fast  to  decay,  until  their  destruction  was 
hastened  by  a  fire  that  left  nothing  for  the 
morning  sun  to  rise  ujwn,  but  the  frei^jht  house 
with  a  platform  1,000  feet  long,  standing  alone 
amid  the  ashes  and  surrounding  forests. 

From  Ci.sco  there  is  a  beautiful  view  on  the 
north,  with  Red  Mountain  in  the  distance. 
Just  back  of  Red  Mourn  ain  is  the  Old  Man 
Mountain,  but  hid  from  view  until  the  train  de- 
scends a  few  miles  farther. 

To  detect  in  this  any  sharp  or  remote  outline 
of  the  human  profile,  wrouglit  in  colossal  propoi- 
tion  by  the  hand  that  moulded  and  chiseled  the 
infinite  jhaptis  of  nature,  i.T  probably  beyond 
the  keenness  of  any  Yankee. 

Leaving  Cisco,  tiie  railroad  continues  on  the 


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aorth  side  of  the  divide,  with  the  canons  of  the 
many  streams  that  form  the  Yuba  on  the  right, 
and  a  deep  valley  near  by  through  hard  {X)r- 
phyry,  passing  Black  Butte  on  the  left,  crossing 
Butte  Canon,  around  Hopkins'  Bluffs  and  Mil- 
ler's Bluffs,  eight  and  a  half  miles  to 

Emigrant  Gap,—nS  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, another  day  and  night  telegraph  station,  is 
almost  one  vertical  mile  above  San  Francisco, 
the  altitude  being  5,221  leeL.  Just  before 
reaching  this  station,  the  Yuba  turns  abruptly 
to  the  north,  and  just  west  of  the  turning  place, 
with  an  elevation  barely  perceptible  to  one  rush- 
ing by.  Bear  River  heads  in  a  vallev  of  the 
same  name,  clothed  in  summer  with  a  (iclightful 
green.  At  Emigrant  Gap  the  divide  s  crossed 
by  means  of  a  tunnel,  and  the  old  ilmigrant 
Road  ciossed  the  Gap  here,  and  is  crossed  Iv 
the  railroad,  just  a  few  rods  west  of  the  tunnel. 
Here  the  old  emigrants  let  their  wagons  down 
the  steep  mountain  side  by  ropes,  with  which  a 
turn  or  two  were  taken  around  the  trees  at  the 
Gap.  How  much  better  are  iron  rails  thi.n  rug- 
ged rocks,  and  atmospheric  brakes  than  treach- 
erous cords  I  On  the  ri^jht  we  Imve  now  the 
headwaters  of  the  Bear  River,  but  of  the  valley 
ono  can  have  only  a  glimpse  except  by  ascend- 
ing the  rocks  above  the  railroad.  Once  over  the 
divide,  there  are  on  the  loft  the  headwaters  of  a 
branch  of  the  North  Fork  of  the  American  River, 
and  the  road  follows  Wilsor's  Ravine,  and  the 
valley  of  the  same  name  is  in  sight  for  some  dis- 
tance. A  number  of  little  ravines  may  bo  noticed 
eraptving  in  Wilson's,  the  largest  of  which,  called 
"Sailor's,"  is  crossed  where  the  road  doubles 
Ix)8t  Camp  Spur,  from  which  ono  may  K  kacross 
the  ravine  and  see  tunnel  No.  1  on  Clrizzly  Hill. 

Blue  Canon — 168  miles  from  San  Fraucisco, 
lit  the  crossing  of  which,  5. 2  miles  from  Emi- 
(^rant  Gap,  are  the  hoi-il,  a  store,  a  shipping 
point  for  six  saw  'nills,  and  a  day  and  night  tele- 
graph station.  The  elevation  is  now  4,693  feet. 
The  snow  shod?  are  unfrequent  and  shorter,  and 
the  traveler  will  become  moi-e  interested  in  the 
scenery  now  growing  most  wonderfully,  until 
it  becomes  the  grandest  on  the  line  of  the  road 
across  the  Continent.  A  little  mining  is  carried 
on  in  Blue  Canon,  but  on  too  small  a  scale  to 
interest  a  stranger.  Blue  Canon  is  the  limit  of 
the  snow  which  remains  during  the  winter.  It 
is  noted  for  the  best  water  on  the  mountains — 
water  so  esteemed  by  the  railroad  men  that  it  is 
carried  to  supply  their  shops  at  Rocklin  and 
Sacramento.  Flumes  and  ditchers  are  almost 
constantly  in  sight.  The  canon  grows  deep  so 
rapidly  and  seems  to  fall  away  from  th-J  railroad, 
so  that  one  instinctively  wonders  ho'v  he  is  to  g^t 
down  so  far.  This  portion  of  thr-  railroad  ha.^ 
the  steepest  grade  on  the  wholr  line — 116  feet 
to  the  mile. 

China  Jtanch. — About  two  miles  west  of 
Blue  Canon,  a  side  track  is  passed  where  the 


close-tilling  Celestial  gardened  prior  to  and  at 
the  location  of  tlie  rotM — and  the  fact  lingers  in 
the  name,  Chine.  Ranche.  Mountains  may  be 
seen  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  After  passinc 
the  ranche,  there  is  a  very  deep  cut  through 
Prospect  Hill,  the  name  suggesting  the  loss  of 
the  passenger  in  the  cut.  On  the  west  side  of 
Protpect  Hill  is  Little  Blue  Canon,  where  Shady 
Run,  a  pretty  little  creek,  is  seen  on  the  left.  It 
was  so  named  by  engineer  Guppy  at  the  time 
the  road  was  located,  m  honor  ot  the  good  camp- 
ing ground  ifcafforded. 

Shndf/  Run,—2\2  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, is  a  side  track,  but  not  even  a  flag-station, 
4.7  miles  from  Blue  Canon.  Near  it  the  railroad 
passes  around  Trail  Spur,  and,  on  the  left  is  one 
of  the  iinest  views  on  the  line  of  the  road,  the 

i" unction  of  Blue  Canon  Creek  and  the  North 
I'ork  of  the  American  River;  there  the  great 
chasm,  worn  by  glaciers  to  a  depth  of  about 
2,000  feet,  extending  a  mile  to  the  junction  of 
the  South  Branch,  the  precipitous  sides  narrow- 
ing to  the  water's  edge  and  forbidding  ascent 
even  on  foot,  through  the  narrow  gorge — and 
mountain  upon  mountain,  back  toward  the  snow 
peaks  left  an  hour  and  a  half  ago — and  east- 
ward for  fifty  or  more  miles,  till  they  are  min- 
gled in  the  eye  as  the  stars  of  the  milky  way,  add 
to  the  impressiveness  of  the  v'jw  which  is  en- 
chaiiced  by  its  suddenness. 

Just  west  of  Trail  Spur,  and  after  passing 
Serpentine  Ravine,  one  may  look  down  the  Great 
American  Canon  into  Green  Valley  and  Giant's 
Gap,  beyond.  The  view  is  sublime,  with  the 
bright  emerald  green  of  tne  pastures ;  the  ter- 
raced and  rounded,  black,  gloomy  forests,  over- 

Alta — 158  miles  from  San  Francisco;  3-607 
feet  elevation.  This  is  the  first  point  re;-. 'hed 
by  tJie  west-bound  traveler  from  which  there 
are  two  passenger  trains  daily  to  San  Francisco. 
The  * '  Alta  Passenger  "  leaves  Alta  every  morn- 
ing at  7 :40,  and  connects  at  Roseville  Junction 
with  the  Oregon  Express,  and  reaches  S&cra- 
n*  '-ito  at  11:10  a.  h.,  and  continues  to  San 
I  rancisco  via  the  Western  Pacific  Railroad— 
the  old  overland  route  through  Stockton,  Liver- 
more  and  NUes — arriving  at  San  Francisco  at 
5:35  p.  M.  This  route  is  49.88  miles  longer  than 
the  route  via  Benecia.  Here  are  several  stores 
and  the  center  of  considerable  lumber  trade.  Its 
population  does  not  exceed  a  hundred.  It  is  a  daj 
telegraph  station,  4.8  miles  from  Shady  Run. 
At  one  time  soap-root,  a  bulb,  growing  like  the 
stub  of  a  coarse,  brown  mohair  switch,  just 
emerging  from  the  ground,  was  gathered  by  the 
Chinamen.  It  has  strong  alkaline  properties, 
and  is  used  for  washing  and  for  genuine  hair 
maUresses.  It  has  become  too  scarce  to  be  gath- 
ered here  with  profit  by  even  the  keen,  moon- 
eyed  Celestial. 

Below  Alta  we  strike  the  slope  of  Bear  River, 
and  on  this  water-shed  we  travel,  winding  among 


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hills,  until  we  near  Cape  Horn.     But  only  1.9 
miles  from  Alta,  we  arrive  at 

J>uteh  Plat,— 157  miltis  from  San  Francisco, 
our  approach  to  which  is  heralded  by  the  unmis- 
takable evidences  of  mining,  seen  in  the  up 
turned  face  of  the  country. 

The  water  that  came  down  in  advance  of  the 
cars  from  Summit  Valley  and  Kidd's  l^akes  is  now 
utilized.  It  was  gathered  from  the  East  Fork  of 
the  American  River,  from  Moniunental  Canon  and 
Wilson's  Ravine,  and  carried  in  Hradley's  ditch 
around  Lost  Camp  Spur  and  emptied  into  Blue 
Canon,  near  Blue  Canon  Station,  and  taken  up 
again  at  the  station  and  carried  ))y  ditciies  and 
flumes  to  Fort  Point,  where  the  railroad  crosses 
it,  and  soon  after  one  of  the  spurs  is  tunneled  in 
two  places  to  find  an  easy  grade,  but  it  cannot 
descend  safely  as  fast  as  the  cars,  and  at  Pros- 
pect Hill  passes  through  a  tunnel  100  feet  above 
the  railroad,  and  is  then  emptied  into  Canon 
Creek,  from  which  it  is  again  taken  up  and  dis- 
tributed by  flumes  or  great  iron  pipes  to  the 
mines  we  overlook  at  Dutcli  Flat  and  Gold  Rim. 
There  are  three  separate  ditches,  the  "Cedar 
Creek,"  an  English  company,  bringing  water 
from  the  American  River;  the  "Miner's  Mining 
and  Ditch  Company,"  with  water  from  Bear 
River,  and  the  "  Yuba  Ditch  Compaiijyf."  The 
first  two  companies  oiJvn  and  work  mines,  aiid 
the  latter  derives  all  its  revenue  from  the  sale  of 
water.  For  hydraulic  mining,  this  is  one  of  the 
most  important  regions  in  the  State. 

Dutch  Flat,  or  German  Level,  has  an  altitude 
of  t),395  feet.  It  is  an  old  town,  the  minirg 
having  begun  in  1851.  It  was  once  more  largely 
populated  than  now,  yet  it  boasts  1,500  inhab- 
itants. It  has  a  Methodist  and  a  Congregational 
Church,  and  the  finest  school-house  in  the  in- 
terior of  the  State.  It  has  a  tri-weekly  stage  to 
Nevada  City,  16  miles,  leaving-  overy  Monday, 
Wednesday  and  Friday  morning.  The  time  is 
three  hours  and  tlie  fare  $3.00.  The  route  passes 
through  the  towns  of  Little  York,  2  1-2  miles, 
You  Bet,  6  miles,  and  Red  Dog,  8  miles  from 
Dutch  Flat.  Tlie  town  is  built  at  the  head  of 
Dutch  Flat  Canon,  and  is  very  irregular  and 
hilly.  It  has  good  stores,  hotels  and  restaurants, 
and  au  enterprising  semi-weekly  newspaper. 

Placer  Mining. — Where  the  earth-carrying 
gold  could  be  easily  dug,  and  water  was  of  ready 
access,  and  the  diggings  were  rich  enough,  the 
washing  out  was  done  by  hand,  and  this  form  of 
gold  hunting  was  called  placer  mining.  It  re- 
quired no  capital  except  the  simple  tools  and  im- 
plements used  in  digging  and  washing,  with  food 
enough  to  keep  one  till  some  return  from  labor 
could  be  obtained.  Several  hundred  million 
dollars  value  of  gold  were  thus  washed  out  of 
the  surface  soil  of  California  in  early  years.  Lit- 
tle ground  remains  that  can  be  made  to  pay  by 
this  process,  and  it  is  almost  a  thing  of  the  past. 
It  naturally  led,  however,  to  hydraulic  mining 


which  is  as  flourishing  as  ever,  and  promises 
to  continue  so  for  many  years.  IMacer  miners 
came  occasionally  upon  ground  which,  though 
carrying  gold,  was  not  rich  enough  to  pay  if 
worked  by  hand,  but  would  pay  handsomely 
when  handled  on  a  large  scale.  The  device  was 
soon  adopted  of  providing  flumes  in  place  of 
cradles  and  rockers.  Into  these  flumes  a  stream 
was  turned  and  the  earth  shoveled  in.  Larg(i 
quantities  could  thus  be  washed  as  easily  as 
small  amounts  had  been  before. 

The  gold  in  each  case,  except  that  portion 
which  was  impalpably  fine,  and  would  even  float 
on  water,  was  detained  by  riffles  on  the  bottom 
bf  the  rocker,  or  the  flume,  and  gathered  up  from 
time  to  time.  It  was  found  eventually  that 
large  banks  sometimes  hundreds  of  feet  high, 
were  rich  enough  in  gold  to  pay  for  working, 
and  the  device  was  next  adopted  of  directing  a 
stream  against  them  to  wash  them  down.  Stiff 
beds  of  cement  have  been  found  rich  in  gold, 
but  too  stiff  to  yield  to  any  except  a  mighty 
force.  Higher  heads  of  water  have  been  sought, 
until  even  500  I'oet  of  head  have  been  employed, 
the  usual  range  being  from  50  feet  to  300,  and  a 
force  obtained  which  nothing  can  resist.  Such 
a  stream  issuing  from  a  six-inch  nozzle,  comes 
out  as  solidto  the  touch  as  ice,  the  toughest  bed  of 
cement  crumbles  before  it,  and  boulders  weigh- 
ing^ tons  are  tos-^-d  about  as  lightly  as  pebbles. 
A  man  struck  by  such  a  stream  would  never 
know  what  hurt  him.  The  strongest  iron  pipe 
is  required  to  carry  the  water  to  the  nozzle, 
through  which  it  is  played.  No  hose  can  be 
made  strong  enough  to  bear  the  pressure,  and 
the  directing  of  the  stream  to  the  point  desired 
is  effected  by  two  iron  jointed  pipes,  moving  in 
planes  at  right  angles  to  each  other,  and  thus 
securing  a  sweep  in  every  direction.  The 
amount  of  the  force  exerted  by  such  a  stream  as 
has  been  described,  it  is  impossible  to  estimate 
excipt  approximately,  but  1,300  pounds  to  the 
inch  is  not  too  high.  To  provide  the  water  re- 
quired where  "  hydraulicking  "  is  done  on  a  large 
scale,  streams  are  brought  long  distances. 

The  price  for  selling  water  is  graduated  by 
the  size  of  the  opening  through  which  it  is  de- 
livered, usually  under  six  inches  pressure.  Prac- 
tically it  is  found  that  there  is  in  Caliiornia, 
more  gold  than  water,  for  there  are  many  } 'laces 
rich  in  gold,  which  cannot  be  worked  for  lack  of 
water. 

The  season  varies  in  length,  aecordin^f  to  the 
situation  and  the  rain-fall,  but  nowhere  is  it  pos- 
sible to  work  the  whole  year,  and  probably  on  an 
average  the  active  season  does  not  exceed  seven 
or  eight  months.  Th&re  is  one  feature  connected 
with  hydraulic  mining  which  no  one  can  contem- 
plate without  regret.  It  leaves  desolation  be- 
hind it  in  the  form  of  heai)S  of  shapeless  gravel 
and  boulders,  which  must  lie  for  ages  before  blos- 
soming again  with  verdure.    One  of  the  difficult 


I 


25U 


TMM  §^siCiFi€  FQimiSF. 


m 


OIANrS  GAP,  AMERICAN  KIVEK  CANON. 
BY  THOM  .6  MORAN. 


rmx  ^siciFic  Fotmisr. 


251 


Srobleins  in  hydraulicking  is  to  find  room  for  the 
ebris  which  the  htieaina,  used  in  washing  down 
banks  of  earth,  are  coiiNtuntly  carrying  along  with 
tliein.  Tlio  beds  of  Htreanis  iiave  been  filled  up 
in  some  parts  of  tiie  State  so  as  to  increase 
greatly  the  exjx)sure  of  the  cultivated  regions  be- 
low the  mining  districts  t«  inundation  and  ruin. 
Legislation  has  been  sought  by  the  farmers  to 
protect  their  interests,  lint  tli"  effort  was  opposed 
by  the  miners  and  a  dead-lock  followed.  Now- 
one  of  the  most  engrossing  questions  in  tho 
politics  of  tho  State  arises  from  tho  filling  of 
the  rivers  and  tho  destruction  of  the  agrionltu- 
ral  lands  by  the  dolnis  from  these  hydraulic 
mines.  A  dam  on  tho  Feather  River,  near  Marys- 
ATlle,  was  authorized  by  tho  Legislature,  and 
after  the  expenditure  of  half  a  million  dollars 
its  success  is  qiiestioned,  and  "slickem"  con- 
tinues to  muddy  at  least  tho  political  -waters, 
nuiddiness  which  will  strike  the  tourist  as 
affecting  all  the  mountain  streams  on  the  west 
slope  of  the  Sierra  Nevadas,  is  the  result  of  this 
mining.  Once  the  Sacramento  River,  the  Feather 
and  the  American  Rivers  were  clear  as  crystal, 
but  the  hunt  for  gold  has  made  them  like  the 
Missouri  River  in  nigh  flood  and  even  muddier, 
and  they  are  not  likely,  while  this  generation  and 
the  next  artf  on  the  stage  of  life,  to  resume  their 
former  clearness  and  purity. 

GolH  liuii, — 204  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
another  mining  town  in  tho  famous  Blue  Lode. 
It  is  a  day  telegraph  station,  with  an  altitude  of 
3,220  feet.  It  has  a  population  of  700,  with  a 
large  number  of  stores,  and  several  hotels.  A 
mile  west  of  Gold  Run  and  to  the  right,  across 
Bear  River,  may  be  seen  You  Bet,  Red  Dog, 
Little  York,  and  other  jiilning  towns  can  be 
pointed  out  from  the  cars  by  those  familiar  with 
the  country;  but  Ophir  will  be  seen  by  everyone, 
looking  out  on  tho  right-hand  side. 

A  farmer  frora  Lancaster  or  Chester  County, 
Pa.,  would  not  be  impressed  with  the  worth  of 
the  country  j  but  tho  lover  of  nature,  who  does 
not  tire  of  the  variety  in  the  mountain  scenery, 
will  yet  ieel  new  interest  in  the  signs  of  speed- 
ily erne  rgJ  >g  into  au  open  and  cultivated  coun- 
try. Ovei  Ihe  Bear  River  Canon,  on  the  right, 
may  be  '-aef  il  tiie  thin  outline  of  the  basin  of 
the  Sacramento  River,  and,  in  a  favorable  atmos- 
phere, the  Coast  Range  beyond  is  clearly  visible. 

Once,  all  the  ravines  in  this  vicinity  around 
it,  swarmed  with  miners.  "They  went  to  the 
land  of  Ophir  for  gold."  Tho  placer  mines, 
were  very  rich,  and  covered  witli  only  from 
one  to  tliree  feet  of  surface.  The  days  are 
long  p.ast,  but  every  pioneer  has  fresh  recollec- 
tions of  them. 

Between  Gold  Run  and  Cape  Horn  Mills  the 
road  crosses  Secret  Town  Ravine.  There 
was  formerly  a  station  at  this  point.  The 
high  eml)ankment  covers  a  curved  trestle  work 
LlOO  feet  long. 


Tlie  ravine  was  named  from  its  early  history, 
to  mark  tho  ofl'orts  of  a  company  of  miners  to 
conceal  their  rich  tliscoveries. 

Abovit  a  mile  and  a  half  l)elow  Secret  Town, 
there  is  a  pretty  view,  Avhere  the  railroad  ia 
near  tho  edge  of  tho  side  hill,  and  the  deep 
ravine  falls  rapidly  away  to  tho  Americaa 
River. 

Mitoullght    Scenei'ff   of  tiie  Slerran 

Travelers  going  westward  have  often  the  pleas- 
ure of  a  d(!lightful  ride  by  moonlight  across  tho 
famous  scenes  of  the  Sierras.  Just  at  eve  ling, 
when  the  sun  casts  its  last  glorious  rays  asross 
the  mountains,  and  lights  up  tho  peaks  and 
snowy  summits  with  splendor— the  train  arrives 
at  Cape  Horn,  and  the  thrill  of  interest  of  tho 
excited  tourist,  will  never  be  forgotten.  Take  a 
good  look  from  tho  iwint,  westward  down  tho 
grand  canon  of  the  American  River.  Step 
toward  the  edge  of  the  cut,  and  look  down  the 
fearful  precipice,  which  is  often  broken  ere  it 
reaches  the  lowest  descent  of  2,000  feet.  It  is  a 
scene  more  famous  in  railroad  pleasure  travel, 
than  any  yet  known.  A  few  miles  beyond,  near 
Shady  Run,  there  suddenly  opens  on  the  gaze  of 
the  ex^)ectant  traveler,  just  before  the  sunlight 
has  quite  disap^ieared,  and  the  evening  shades 
com:'  on,  the  vision  of 

The  Grrat  American  Canon,— hw  fat 
the  finest  canon  of  the  entire  Pacific  Railroad. 
Tho  suddenness  of  approach,  and  the  grandeur 
of  scene  are  sc  overpowering,  that  no  pen,  pic- 
ture or  languag'!  can  give  to  it  adeciuate  descrip- 
tion. Two  thousand  feet  below,  flow  the  quiet 
waters  of  the  Americm  River.  Westward  is 
seen  the  chasm,  where  height  and  peak  and 
sununit  hang  lofti.'y  over  the  little  vale.  South- 
ward is  a  sea,  yea  an  ocean  of  mountains — and 
the  observer,  seemingly  upon  the  same  level,  is 
bewildered  at  the  immensity  of  Nature's  lavish 
di-^pKay  of  mountain  wonders;  night  comes  on, 
and  thfl  heights  catch  the  soft  light  of  the  moon, 
as  it  shines  and  J/./inkles  jvcross  and  among  the 
tops  of  the  pine.s,  lighting  up  the  open  canons,  aid 
rendering  still  more  deep  the  contrast  with  the 
shadv  glens — the  snow  fields,  cold,  white  and 
chilling,  with  ever  changing  turns  of  the  rail- 
road, Ti.uke  the  evening  ride,  beyond  a  doubt, 
the  nost  pleasurable  that  ever  falls  to  the  lot  of 
the  jight-seer.  The  tourist  must  stay  up  long — 
atxi  for  yourself  all  the  beauties  of  the  Sierras, 
while  there  is  the  least  possible  light — Emigrant 
Gap,  Summit,  Donner  Lake,  Blue  Canon — all 
are  delightful,  and  the  lover  of  scene  pleasures 
must  not  forsake  his  window  or  the  platform,  till 
the  midnight  hour  finds  him  at  Truckee.  Trav- 
elers eastward  will  bear  in  mind  that  from  Cape 
Horn  to  Summit,  the  best  scenes  are  on  south 
side  of  the  train,  the  American  River  Canon  on 
the  right  hand,  or  south  side,  and  the  Bear  and 
the  Yuba  River  Valleys  on  the  north  side ;  but 


252 


TMM  i^oiCMFW  romxtsr. 


BenrcrinuHtlinil  hin  pleasurcH  on  thn  north,  iintil 
he  readies  Truckeo.  Eust  of  Tnxckoo  the 
aceno  in  ugain  renow«>il,  and  thu  rivtu*  utid  bnst 
views  are  mainly  on  tho  Houth. 

Secret  TiHVU—axui    Hocrot    Town    Ravine. 
There  is  a  side  track,  bnt  it  iH  not  now  a  Htation. 

A  Chinene  Idea  of  I'oker. — ••  What's  usee 
plav  i)oker  ?"  remarkod  an  olmoud-eyod  deuizea 
ofTncaon.Nev, 
"Mo  hold 
four  klingH  anu 
alaoc;  Mclican 
man  hoUl  all 
same  tinio  four 
laces  and  a 
kling;  -vv  hole 
■week  woshee 
gone  likoe 
"woodbine. " 

Vape,  Horn 
MUIh  is  a  side 
track,  at  which 
the  o  V  o  r  1  a  u  d 
trains  will  not 
Btop  for  pas- 
sengers.    It 

is  5.0  miles  from 
Gold  Ituu,  and 
not  far  from 
f!ape  Morn.  Be- 
fo.-«  the  train 
"doubles"   the 

E>int  or  Cape, 
obber's  Ravine 
will  bu  seen  on 
the  left,  deepen- 
ing into  the  great 
canon  of  the 
American  River. 

Cape  Horn. 
— Around  the 
Cape,  the  rail- 
road clings  to  the 
precipitous  blufT 
at  a  point  nearly 
2,00U  feet  above 
the  river  and  far 
below  tlie  sum- 
mit, and  where 
thofirstfoot-hoiil 
for  thu  darinc 
workman  on  the 

n  a r  r o  w  1  e  d  K  e  "•«'*'=^  ^°*-'''  tresti.«-wobk 

was  gained  by  men  who  were  let  down  with  ropes 
from  the  summit. 

When  the  Cape  is  rounded,  Rice's  Ravine  will 
be  on  the  left,  and  Colfax  seen  pn  the  opiwsite 
side.  At  the  head  of  Rice's  Ravine  the  radroad 
crosse.^  by  trestle-work  1 13  feet  high  and  878  feet 
long,  on  the  summit  of  the  divide  between  Long's 
Ravine  and  Rice's  Ravine  —the  waters  from 
Long's  going  first  northward  to  the  Bear  River, 


aiwl  those  in  Rice's  Riiviiin  soutliward  into  tlni 
American.  At  the  foot  of  the  trestle-work,  ainl 
climbing  up  both  ravines  to  Colfax,  its  terminus, 
on  a  grade  of  IIU  feet  to  the  mile,  nuiy  be  seen 
the  narrow  gauge  railroail  just  opened  to  firiiss 
Valley  and  Nevada  City— the  former  1(1.74  and 
the  latter  '2'2  1-2  miles  from  Colfax. 

At  the  bottom  of  the  deep  gorge  around  Cai"' 

Horn,  and  on  tin- 
>>  mountain  side 
across  the  stii- 
lendons  chiisni, 
may  be  ^eiui  tlw* 
stage  load  to 
Iowa  1 1  i  II ,  a 
min  i  n  g  town 
across  the  rivir. 
The  railroad 
lore  is  an 
achievement  of 
e  n  g  i  n  0  c  r  i  n  g 
skill;  genius  and 
hiring  on  the 
part  of  'U  hold 
proje-tors,  tri- 
umphi..i,  ^  ver 
natural  womltis 
and  obstacli's  of 
which  ivcv  to  he 
proud.  The 
view  is  magnifi- 
cent. No  one 
passing  can  af- 
ford to  miss  it, 
or  he  will  die 
poorer  and  worse 
lor  the  loss.  Un- 
less it  be  the 
view  at  Giant's 
(Jap,  there  is  no 
railroad  view  to 
surpass  it.  The 
wonderfulchasMi 
is  almost  friglit- 
ful  to  behold. 
The  houses  and 
even  fields  in  tiie 
valley  beneath 
are  little  things, 
and  t  h  e  b  u  t  - 
tresses  to  tin; 
deep  water-gate 
are  so  enormous 
that  large  canons  are  as  indistinct  as  the  lines  nf 
masonry,  and  as  tho  defying  mountains  op'  ii 
wild  galleries  back  among  the  higher  peaks,  tin' 
mountain  sculpture  grows  grainier  and  grand  r 
until  the  rugged,  but  dimly  outlined  forms  streti  h 
away  in  a  vast  se  i  of  pine,  peak  and  snow, 


"  Tho  igh  inUnd  far  we  be." 
The  road-bed,  to  one  looking  down  is  appar- 


TME  F^^CiFW  TQ^mtaW^ 


258 


V 


)wn  M  appar- 


(intly  8C<X)p<)<l  out  of  Iter)  <  .idiciilitr  rock  iiiui 
ovornaiijfiri},'  tin-  ^jreat  ahyss  ;  uik!,  t<)  one  lookiiij,' 
iqi,  iH  like  a  loiiy  wkeiii  of  gray  thread  wouiul 
around  tlio  clitT. 

C'olfax  aii(l  tlio  dt-sceiidiii},'  r;ii:oa<l,  and  tha 
li'ss  pn'tt'ntioiis  iianow  gauj,'<3  toiling  nj)  to  meet 
each  otiier,  are  clearly  seen  across  Rice's  Kavinc. 

Skillful  f'ooAf'i'//.— Americans  who  dine 
with  the  Chinese,  are  surprised  at  the  perfection 
to  which  they  carry  their  cooking.  During  a 
recent  Chinese  baiuiuet  in  San  Francisco,  an 
orangif  was  laid  at  the  i.latt!  of  each  guest.  The 
orange  itself  .seemed  like  any  other  orange,  but 
on  being  cut  open,  wjis  f(»und  to  contain  within 
the  rind  five  kinds  of  dtsiicatcf  jellies.  One  was 
at  first  |)uzzled  to  explain  how  the  jellies  got  in, 
and  giving  up  that  train  of  refiection,  was  in  a 
worse  quandary  to  know  how  the  pidpy  i)art  of 
the  orange  got  out.  Colored  eggs  were  also 
served,  in  the  inside  of  which  were  found  nuts, 
jellies,  meats  and  confectionery.  When  one  of 
the  Americans  present,  asked  the  int<M-preter  to 
explain  this  legerdemain  of  cookery,  he  expanded 
his  mouth  in  a  hearty  laugh,  and  shook  his  head 
and  said,  "  i>ye/(c«n /««;»  heiiii  amnrt ;  win/  he  nut 
Jind  him  out.  f  " 

Col/mx — 144  mUes  from  San  Francisco.  It 
■vraa  named  in  lionor  of  the  late  Vice-President, 
hoa  an  altitude  of  2,422  feet,  and  is  a  dav  tele- 
graph station.  The  old  settlement  wa.s  Illinois- 
town,  bnt  with  the  opening  of  the  station,  tlio 
old  town  was  "finished."  Colfax  has  a  popu- 
latioit  of  1,001),  two  churches — Motliodist  Epis- 
copal and  Congregational — three  hotels  and 
stores  to  indicate  that  it  is  the  center  of  tra<le 
for  a  population  of  several  thousand.  A  daily 
stage  runs  to  Forest  Hill,  eight  miles  distant, 
on  the  south  side  of  the  American  Kiver. 

XEVADA  COUNTY XAnilOW  GAUGE 
RAILROAD. 

John  C.  Coleman,  President,    -    Grass  Valley. 
J.  \y.  SioouRNEY,  Vice-President,  " 

EowABD  Coleman,  Treasurer,    -  " 

John  F.  Kidder,  Gen'l  Supt,  -  " 

Qeoroe  Fletcher,  Secretary     -  " 

This  road  is  of  three  feet  gauge,  22 >^  miles 
long,  and  extends  to  Nevada  City.  It  is  a  series 
of  almost  continuous  curves,  steep  grades,  high 
bridges  and  charming  scenery.  From  Colfax 
the  road  descends  at  the  rate  of  121  feet  to  the 
mile  toward  Cajie  Horn,  and  passes  under  the 
high  bridge  of  the  Central  Pacific,  over  the  ravine 
where  the  waters  of  the  Bear  and  American 
rivers  divide.  Following  toward  Bear  river,  a 
side  track  is  reached  for  the  town  of  You  Bet, 
several  miles  distant,  and  the  river  soon  crosses 
at  its  junction  with  Greenhorn  Creek,  and  at  a 
point  346  feet  below  Colfax.  The  Howe  truss 
bridge  is  750  feet  long  and  97  feet  high.  The  road 
follows  the  Oreenhom,  but  the  creek  and  deep 
chasm  are  soon  lost  sight  of  for  three  miles, 


when  they  reappear,  and  the  tra<-kis  only  1,500 
feet  distant  from  th«s  point  where  thay  were  lost 
sight  of.  After  gaining  elevation  by  this  curv- 
ing, the  route  winds  over  the  high  mountain 
ridges  to  its  summit  at  an  altitude  of  2,8r,l  feet 

StoriHH,  Huena  Vi^ta  and  K'ress  Summit  and 
Union  Hill  are  stations  Iwtwoen  C<dfax  and 
(Irass  Valley,  out  of  no  general  importance. 

From  the  summit  to  Grass  Valley  tho  maxi< 
mum  grade  (descending)  of  121  feet  is  again 
reached.  The  most  charming  views  am  tlie 
Canon  of  tho  Amercan  River  and  Capo  Horn, 
both  on  tho  right  just  after  leaving  Colfax,  and 
the  valleys  of  the  Bear  and  Greenhorn.  Com« 
pared  with  these  inspiring  canons,  the  scenery 
from  the  Summit  to  Nevada  City  is  quite  tome, 
yet  there  is  none  of  it  that  is  not  picturesque 
and  iut<>resting. 

All  along  tho  route  traversing  this  region 
of  this  great  country,  tho  most  wonderful,  the 
grandest  and  the  most  l)eautiful  views  of  natu- 
ral  scenery  ai'o  to  bo  had.  What  magic  is  this 
to  enable  a  traveler  to  sit  in  a  chair  suitable  for 
a  room  in  a  ]»alace;  have  his  meals  brought  to 
him  of  the  rarest  of  dainties,  if  he  so  chooses; 
and  all  the  while  he  is  borne  as  swift  as  the 
flight  of  a  bird,  over  ridges  inaccessible  to 
the  toiling  carriages  of  old,  over  tho  summ?*'* 
of  mountains  and  down  again  to  the  level  of 
valleys ! — performing  in  five  days  what  not 
long  ago  it  took  months  to  do.  Opening  bo- 
fore  the  tourist,  who  sits  at  his  spacious  win- 
dow in  the  sumptuous  car,  scenes  of  beauty, 
grandeur  and  magnificence,  perhajts  never 
dreamed  of  by  hinx  l>efore,  coming  and  passing 
like  thoughts  in  a  dream.  What  would  be  the 
sensations  of  one  of  our  ancestors  were  he  to  be 
brought  back  again  to  the  life  he  lived  and 
l)laced  by  tho  side  of  our  tourist  ? 

Oi'UHH  Vallei/  is  10.74  miles  from  Colfax, 
and  has  a  population  of  6,50(1,  It  is  tho  center 
of  tho  best  gold  quartz  mining  region  of  the 
State,  and  has  the  largest  Protestant  Churdi 

i Methodist  Episcopal)  in  the  Sierra  Mountains. 
t  lias  also  a  Congregational,  Boman  Catholic, 
Episcopal  and  Christian  or  Campbellite  Church. 
Until  recently,  it  had  two  banks,  but  at  present 
has  none.  It  is  the  center  of  large  lumber,  fruit 
and  mining  interests,  Iios  a  daily  paper,  the 
Union,  and  one  weekly,  the  Foothill  Tidings. 
Stages  leave  Grass  Valley,  daily,  for  Marjfa- 
viUe  on  the  Oregon  division  of  the  Central  Pacifio 


\  % 


u? 


'"•oad. 


NevaiUi  City,  five  miles  from  Grass  Valley, 
but  uearly  seven  by  railroad,  is  the  county  town 
of  Nevada  County,  has  a  population  of  4,500, 
and  is  a  prosperous  town. 

The  people  of  Truckee  are  compelled  to  at- 
tend court  in  this  city.  It  is  in  the  same  mining 
region  as  Grass  Valley,  and  was  for  many  years 
the  largest  town  in  the  mining  regions.  From 
an  area  of  six  miles,  not  less  than  $100,000,000 


m 

m 
f  : 


«»-;,jS^ 


CAPE  HORN. 
t<-'Wittw  looking  down  the  AtiMsrlcMi  Ulver.    2.— View  of  0«pr  Hom  wid  AmerlcAn  !Uv«r  Ciwion,  looking  EuH. 


Till 


^   - 


'zao 


k 


.^ 


5,t\»- 


J)^ 


hAve  been  taken,  and  $2,000,000  are  now  pro- 
dncecl  dunually.  Downieville,  Sierraville,  Lake 
City,  BioomneKl.  Moore's  Flat  and  Eureka 
South. 

The  Idaho  Mine  near  Grass  Valley,  and  close 
to  the  railroad  track,  has  paid  its  one  hundred 
aiiu  fortieth  monthly  dividend,  varying  from  85 
to  $25.  Many  other  minus  are  riuu  and  profitaule, 
and  m  no  section  of  the  Pacific  Coast  has  the 
prosiierity  of  this  induetiy  been  more  uniform. 

Grass  Vallev  ami  Nevaoa  City  are  tdike  in 
having  irregular  streets, — streets  laid  out  to 
Buit  the  mines.  Nevada  haii  •'wo  papers,  the 
Da'ly  TnthKri^t  and  the  tri-weekly  Ijaaette. 

8v.iges  leave  Nevada  daily  for  8an  Juau  North 
(the  cent«?r  of  extensive  hydiaulio  mining), 
Comptonville,  Forest  City. 

Leaving  Colfiix,  the  tourist  may  become  more 
interested  in  the  forms  of  vegetavion  and  will 
notice  th<^  man^sani'a,  common  to  ill  the  foot- 
hills of  California.  It  will  be  seen  toward  the 
Geysers  and  the  Yosomite  of  mush  larger 
growth.  It  is  a  queer  bush,  and  like  tiie 
madrona  treft  it  does  not  shed  its  leaf,  bat  sheds 
its  bark.  Its  small,  red  beriy  ripens  in  the 
fpli  and  is  gathered  and  eaten  by  the  Ii^diaus. 
Crooked  can  as  mode  from  its  wood  are  much 
esteemed.  The  bark  is  very  delicate  until  var- 
nished and  dried,  and  great  care  should  be  t&ken 
in  transporting  them  when  first  cut. 

The  foothills  are  partly  covered  with  chapitr- 
ral,  consisting  mostly  of  a  low  evergreen  oak, 
which,  in  early  days,  afforded  secure  hiding 
places  for  Mexican  robbers,  and  now  accommo- 
dates with  cheap  lodgings,  many  a.  "  road  agent" 
when  supplied  from  Wells,  Fargo  &  Company  s 
treasure  boxes.  The  white  blossoms  of  tha 
eeanothus  fill  the  air  with  jEragranco  in  April 
and  May. 

On  the  right,  the  valley  of  the  Sacramento  is 
coining  faster  into  sight,  and  the  Coast  Range 
growing  more  distinct.  The  next  station,  5.1 
miles  west  of  Colfax,  is 

New  England  Mills,  at  the  west  end  of  a 

tlateau  where  there  is  no  grade  for  three  miles, 
lumbering  in  the  vicinity  has  declined,  and  the 
trains  do  not  stop.  The  roadway  continues  on 
the  south  side  of  the  divide  between  the  Bear 
and  American  rivers,  but  this  has  so  widened 
that  the  cat's  seem  to  be  winding  f*  round  among 
small  hills  far  away  from  either  river. 

Water  taken  from  Bear  Bivej-,  near  Colfax,  is 
(]uitQ  near  the  railroad,  on  tlie  right,  for  a  num- 
ber of  miles, -and  will  bo  seen  crossing  over  at 
Clipper  Gap. 

Bolow  New  England  Mills  thci-o  is  an  opening 
called  George's  Crap,  named  from  an  eiirly  resi- 
tlont,_Goorg«  Giosendorfer,  and  farther  west  is 

then 


Cat  Bonohe  fardier  west,  whore  Wihl-Cat  Bum" 


mit  is  crossed  by  a  tunnel  693  feet  long,  and 
Clipper  Bavine  is  then  found  on  the  le&hand 
side.  This  tunnel  was  made  in  1873,  to  straighteu 
the  road,  and  the  ends  are  buUt  of  solid  ma- 
sonry. Across  Clipper  Gap  Bavine,  the  stage 
road  from  Auburn  to  Georgetown  may  be  seen 
winding  up  the  mountain  side. 

About  half-way  between  New  England  Mills 
and  Clipper  Gap,  there  i?  a  side  track  and  day 
telegraph  station,  caUed  Appleaatti.,  for  the  run- 
ning of  trains  and  a  point  for  shipping  lime; 
but  passenger  trains  run,  without  stopping, 
from  Colfax  11  1-3  miles,  to 
^  Clipper  Gap — 133  miles  from  San  Fran, 
cisco.  The  few  buildings  have  a  store  and  a 
hotel  among  them.  It  was  the  terminus  of  the 
road  for  t^iree  or  four  months,  and  then  a  lively 
place. 

Hare  and  mountain  quail  aboimd  in  these 
foothills.  The  latter  roost,  not  on  the  ground, 
but  in  trees,  never  utter  the  "Bob  White,"  so 
familiar  to  sportsmen,  and  fly  swifter  than  the 
Eastern  quail. 

Aulntrn — 120  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is 
a  day  telegraph  station,  6.6  miles  from  Clipper 
Gap,  with  an  elevation  of  1,360  feet. 

From  Auburn  Station  a  daily  stage  runs  22 
miles  to  Forest  Hill  on  arrival  of  the  train  from 
the  east,  fare  $J:.00,  and  to  Michigan  Blufis,  30 
miles,  fare  $6.00,  and  another  runs  daily,  except 
Sunday,  to  Greenwood,  16  miles,  fare  $2.50,  and 
Georgetown,  21  miles,  fare  $3.00,  Pilot  Hill,  11 
miles,  fare  $1.50,  Coloma,  21  miles,  fare  $2.50, 
and  Placorville,  32  miles,  fare  $4.00.  Alabaster 
Cave  on  the  route  of  the  latter,  six  miles  from 
Auburn,  is  an  opening  in  a  limestone  formation, 
and  the  seat  of  the  kilns  in  which  the  best  lime 
of  California  is  made.  What  little  beauty  the 
cave  once  possessed  has  been  invaded,  and  it  has 
now  no  attraction  for  the  tourist. 

The  town  of  Auburn  proper  is  situated  below 
the  station.  It  lias  a  population  of  1,000,  two 
churches,  good  schools,  fine  orchards,  and  is  the 
oounty-seat  of  Placer  County.  It  is  one  of  the 
oldest  towns  in  the  State.  It  has  three  hotels, 
one  of  which  is  the  Bailroad  House.  Many  of 
its  buildings  are  constructed  of  brick  or  stone, 
and  grapes  are  extensively  grown  in  the  vicinity, 
and  with  great  success.  The  Placer  Herald  is  a 
weekly  Democratic  paper,  and  the  Argus,  a 
weekly  Bepublican  paper. 

From  the  point  where  the  locomotive  stands 
the  Sacramento  liiver  can  be  seen  on  tl  e  left, 
as  also  from  other  points  as  the  train  c  atmues 
westward.  Soon  aft«r  leaving  the  station,  the 
railrooil  crosses  Dutch  Ravine,  at  the  head  of 
which  is  Bloomer  Cut,  where  the  train  passes 
through  an  interesting  conglomerate,  showMg 
a  well-exposed  stratum  of  boulders,  sand  and 
coarse  gravel.  The  trestle  work  formerly  at 
Newcastle  Gap  Bridge,  52S  feet  long  and  6U 
feet  high,  has  been  fillod  with  earth. 


ingEMt- 


256 


^'.r>; 


>*•. 


«<fcjB<y- 


l<f^- 


^n 


:^^ 


'*'"'-€r^   .*> 


■■  At 


-  z^:^.- 


.  ^nfe .:  .,%^. 


.*--  » 


I 


<■•:.<- ^ 


^ 


'% 


A  VISION  OF  THE  GOLDEN  COUNTRY. 

BY  TBOMA8  MORAK. 


i'eJ 


rmm  ^^QiFia  Tomimw. 


257 


As  the  train  nears  Nowcastle,  the  Ararysville 
IJuttes,  rough,  ragged  peaks,  are  easily  discerned. 
Tiie.y  are  abfuit  12  miles  above  tiie  city  ot 
Marysville,  and  -the  town  near  the  railroad, 
hut  clinginjtf  to  a  side  hill  opposite,  is  the 
decayed  town  of  Ophir. 

From  tlie  high  eml)ankmenta,  before  reaching 
and  also  after  passing  Xewea.stle,  there  are  tine 
panoramas  of 
tlie  Sacramento 
Valley,  on  both 
tlie  right  hand 
and  the  left. 
Mount  Diablo 
may  be  seen  on 
the  left. 

NcwcaHtle, — 
121  miles  from 
San  Francisco, 
is  a  day  tele- 
graph station, 
five  miles  from 
Auburn,  i)50  f(!et 
above  the  sea. 
It  has  a  hotel  and 
several  stores, 
every  man  in 
the  place  aGoml 
Templar,  a  n  d 
some  pruniisih',' 
([Uartz  mines  in 
the  vicinity.  It 
was  named  afti-i 
an  old  resid  'nt 
and  h(>tel-ki'e|i- 
or  called  Castlt.'. 
An  earnest  of 
what  may  bi 
seen  in  the  lovely 
valley,  that  has 
such  unlimit'il 
extent  before  til 
traveler,  may  I' 
seen  in  a  flour- 
ishing  orange 
tree,  growing  in 
the  open  air,  in 
a  garden  only  a 
few  yards  from 
the  railroad 
track.  BLOOM 

Fniit  orchards  ai*(!  mimerona  and  extensive — 
these  foot-hills  being  one  of  tlie  beat  sections  of 
the  Htato  for  growing  lorries,  apples,  cherries, 
peaches  and  flgs.  Almost  every  one  will  have 
noticed  tho  poison  oak  or  poison  ivy,  and  unless 
one  knows  tiiat  ho  cannot  bo  affected  by  it,  ho 
Rhould  avoid  an  intimat«)  acquaintance.  Below 
Newcastle  about  a  mile,  tho  railroail  leaves 
Dutch  Ravine  and  enters  Antelope  liavine,  by 
which  it  descends  to  the  plain. 

Penrhyn   is  a  side  track  near  a  valuable 


granite  quarry.  The  rock  is  susceptible  of  a 
high  polish — probably  unsm-passed  in  the  State, 
and  was  used  for  building  the  dry  dock  of  the 
IJ.  8.  Navy  Yard,  at  Mare  Island,  and  other  pub- 
lic buildings.  If.  summer,  '200  men  are  employed 
in  the  (juarr.es. 

I'iuo,— 115  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is  about 
where  the  limit  of  the  pines  is  found,  in  a  coun- 
try full  of  liuge 
boidders,  with 
(piarriesof  gran- 
ite, sliglitly  soft- 
er than  that  of 
Penryn. 

Koekltn — is 
112  miles  from 
San  Francisco, 
a  day  and  night 
telegraph  sta- 
tion, with  249 
feet  of  elevation, 
and  is  the  point 
at  which  ea.st* 
bound  trains 
take  an  extra 
locomotive  to 
ascend  the 
mountain.  Tho 
roundhouse  of 
the  railroad  com- 
pany, with  28 
stalls,  situated 
here  is  a  most 
substantial 
structure,  made 
from  the  granite 
<1  uarries  near 
the  station. 
From  these  quar- 
ries, many  of 
the  streets  of 
San  Francisco 
are  paved,  pub- 
lic and  private 
buildings  erect- 
ed, and  here 
were  cut  tho  im- 
mense blocks 
used  for  the 

Iiavementsof  the 
*alace  Hotel. 

Jiinrtton— is  108  miles  from  San  Francisco. 
It  is  a  ilav  telegraph  station,  and  103  feet  al)Ove 
the  sea.  'The  town  is  called  Uoseville,  in  honor 
of  the  belle  of  the  cotmtry  who  joined  an  excur- 
sion  here  during  the  early  history  of  the  road, 
and  will  probably  be  known  as  Roseville  Junc- 
tion. 

Here  the  Oregon  division  of  the  Central  Pa- 
cific leaves  the  main  line.  On  the  loft  may  be 
seen  the  abandoned  grade  of  a  road  that  was 
built  to  this  point  from  Folaom  on  the  American 


H 


,f 


it 


f 


<l 


W 


r 


258 


TMM  9>^CIFW  ftOMmtSW. 


River.  By  this  road,  Lincoln,  Wheatland,  Miv- 
rysville,  Chico,  Tehama,  lied  Blulf,  Redding,  and 
intermediate  points  are  reached.  One  luuidred 
fifty-one  and  a  half  miles  have  been  built  from 
the  junction  nortliward.  I'assengers  going  north 
may  use  their  tickets  to  San  Francisco  for  pas- 
sage over  thia  division,  and  at  Redding  take 
stage  for  Portland,  Or.  See  page  300  for  full 
description  of  Railroad. 

AtVtelope, — a  side  track  at  which  passenger 
trains  do  not  stop,  and  6.6  miles  farther  on,  a 
place  of  about  eijual  importance  called 

Arcade.  — The  soil  is  light,  much  of  it  grav- 
elly, but  it  produces  considerable  grass,  and  an 
abundance  of  wild  flowers.  Promnient  among 
the  latter  are  the  Lupin  and  the  Eschscholtzia, 
or  California  Poppy.  The  long  fence  will  inter- 
est the  Eastern  farmer,  for  here  is  a  specimen  of 
a  Mexican  grant.  It  is  the  Xorris  Ranche,  now 
owned  by  Messrs.  Haggin,  Tevis  and  others,  and 
learly  ten  miles  long.  When  California  was 
first  settled,  these  plains  were  covered  with  tall, 
wild  oats,  sometimes  concealing  the  horseback 
rider,  and  wild  oats  are  now  seen  along  the  side  of 
the  track.  No  stop  is  made,  except  for  r -  -.sing 
trains,  until  the  American  River  bridge  is 
reached. 

About  four  miles  from  Sacramento  we  reach 
the  American  River.  It  has  none  of  the  loveli- 
ness that  charmed  us  when  we  saw  it  winding 
along  the  mountains.  The  whole  river-bed  has 
filled  up,  and  in  summer,  when  the  water  is  al- 
most wholly  diverted  to  mining  camps  or  for 
irrigation,  it  seems  to  be  rather  a  swamp.  It  is 
approached  by  a  long  and  high  trestle  work. 
After  crossing  the  bridge,  on  the  right,  you  will 
notice  some  thrifty  vineyards  and  pi-oductive 
Chinese  gardens  in  the  rich  deposits  of  the  river. 
On  the  left  you  will  obtain  a  fine  view  of  the 
State  Capitol;  also  you  get  a  fine  view  of  the 
grounds  of  the  State  Agricultural  Society.  Its 
speed-track,  a  mile  in  length,  is  unexcelled. 
Its  advantages,  including  the  climate  of  tiie 
State,  make  it  the  best  training  track  in  the 
United  States.  It  was  here  that  Occident  trot- 
ted in  2.16  ;J-4,  and  is  said  to  have  made  a  record 
of  2.15  1-4  in  a  private  trial.  The  grand  stand 
was  erected  at  a  cost  of  9ir),(iOC>. 

Should  you  pass  through  the  city  in  Sej^tem- 
ber  or  October,  do  not  fail  to  see  for  yourself  Uio 
Agricultural  Park  and  the  Pavilion,  and  te^c  th(! 
marvellous  stories  about  the  beets  and  the  pnnii> 
kins,  and  secure  some  of  the  ber.iitiful  and  de- 
licious fruit  that  is  grown  in  the  foot  hiils. 

On  the  left  you  will  also  see  the  hospital  of 
the  Central  Pacific  Railroad.  It  contains  all 
modern  improvements  for  lighting,  heating,  ven- 
tilation and  drainage,  and  a  library  of  1,200 
volumes.  It  can  acconunodate  200  patients,  and 
cost  the  company  f65,(>(M).  Fifty  cents  a  month 
is  deducted  from  the  pay  of  all  employes  for 
maintaining  the  institution.    No  other  railroad 


has  made  such  generaus  provision  for  its  faith- 
ful employes. 

Bauroad  Works  —North  of  the  city  there 
was  a  sheet  of  water  known  as  "  Sutter's  Lake" 
and  "  The  Slough,"  and  a  succession  of  high 
knolls.  The  lake  was  granted  to  the  city  by  the 
State,  and  to  the  railroad  company  by  the  city. 
Its  stagnant  waters  have  given  place,  at  great 
cost,  to  most  im{K)rtant  industries.  The  liigh 
knolls  have  been  levelled,  and  are  also  owned,  in 
part,  by  the  railroad  company.  Not  less  than  fifty 
acres  of  land  are  thus  made  useful  for  side  tracks 
and  fruitful  in  manufactures.  Six  ard  a  half 
acres  of  it  are  covered  by  the  railroad  shops. 
Twelve  hundred  men  are  constantly  employed. 

These  are   the  chief  shops  of  the    lailroad. 
Some    you    .saw    at    Ogden,    Terrace,     Cariin, 
Wadswbrth,   Tnickee    and    Rocklin,  an.l    you 
will  find  otbovs  nt  Lathrop  an«l  Oakland  Point, 
and  at  Tulpi-e  and  Callente  on  the  Visalia  Divis- 
ion.    At  Oakland  Point  several  hundred  men 
are  employed.    All  these  shops  and  those  of  the 
California  Pacific  Road  at  Vallejo  center  here. 
The.se  are  the  largest  and  best  shops  west  of  the 
Mississippi  River,  and  form  the  most  extensive 
manufacturing  industi-y  of  the  city. 

The  be.st  locomotives,  and  the  mo.st  elegant  and 
comt'ortable  passenger  cars  on  the  coast  are  built, 
and  a  large  portion  of  the  repairs  for  the  whole 
road  is  done  here.  All  the  cp  lings  of  iron  and 
bra^.-^,  and  every  fitting  of  reight  and  passenger 
cars,  except  the  goods  u-sed  in  upholstering,  is 
hf;ro  product'd ;  boilers  for  steamers  jnit  up,  the 
heaviest  engine  shafts  forged,  telegraph  instru- 
ments made,  silver  plating  done,  and  12,00(1 
car  wheels  made  every  month.  All  the  latest 
an<l  best  lal)or-saving  tools  and  machineiyr  u.sed 
in  wood,  iron  and  brass  work  can  here  be  seen 
in  operation. 

Tlie  capacity  of  the  shops  is  six  bo.v-freight, 
and  six  flat  cars  per  day,  and  two  passenger,  and 
one  sleeping  car  per  month.  Twelve  years  ago, 
the  work  of  the  company  at  this  ix)int,  was  all 
done  in  a  little  wooden  building  24  by  100  feet, 
and  with  less  men  than  there  are  now  build- 
ings or  departments. 

Last  year  a  million  and  a  half  dollars  was  i)aid 
out  for  labor  in  these  Ehop;  alone,  and  4,(M)0  ten." 
of  iroa  con.sumed.  Some  of  the  buildings,  like 
tiiG  roundhouse,  are  of  brick.  This  has  20  piti 
each  00  fe«?t  long,  with  a  circumference  of  (iOO 
feet.  Some  of  the  buildings  have  roofs  or  side-s 
of  corrugated  iron.  Seven  large  under-ground 
tanks,  1,6<K)  gallons  each,  are  used  for  oil  and 
2,(KM)  gallons  of  coal  oil,  and  40(.)  of  sperm  cou- 
suuied  evei-y  month. 

In  connection  with  the  shops,  is  a  regularly 
organized  and  well-tMpiipped  finvbrigade,  ami  in 
two  minutes  the  water  of  two  steam  fire-engines 
can  be  directed  to  any  (xtint  in  the  buildings. 

Soon  a  rolling  miil  will  be  erected,  and  wyon 
a    location  but  lately  pestilential.    The  whole 


its  faith- 
city  tliero 
'8  Luke" 

of  high 
ity  by  the 
(T  the  city. 

at  gieat 
The  high 
owned,  in 
1  than  fifty 
dde  tracks 
iiid  a  lialf 
)ad  shi)i)8. 
Moyed. 

I  raihuad. 
8,     Carlin, 

aii>l  you 
and  Toint, 
ialiaDivis- 
idred  men 
lose  of  the 
enter  here. 
west  of  the 
,t  extensive 

elegant  and 
ist  are  built, 
I-  the  whole 
of  iron  and 
id  passengiT 
lolstering,  i» 
put  up,  the 
laph  instru- 
and    l'i,0()0 

II  the  late-st 
ihinei-y  used 
ere  be  seen 

bo.v-freight, 
issenger,  and 
ve  years  ago, 
K)int,  was  all 
:  by  UK)  feet, 
5  now  build- 

lars  was  paid 
nd  4,«M)()  ttMif 
,uilding»,  like 
is  has  21)  pits 
nence  of  000 
roofs  or  sides 
under-ground 
J  for  oil  and 
of  sperm  con- 

,  a  regularly 
igade,  anti  in 
-  fire-engines 
buildings, 
ted,  and  uiH)n 
I.    The  whole 


ifll 


I 


^  ;■■ 


260 


WmS    ^^CiFt€   WQi^MiSr. 


coast  -will  be  laid  nnder  further  tribute  to  these 
shops  for  the  facilities  of  travel  ami  commerce. 

Just  before  entering  the  depot  you  wiL  iee 
the  Sacramento  Biver  on  the  right. 

The  announcement  of  •'  Sacramento  "  wiP  be 
exceedingly  welcome  to  every  through  pass- 
enger, for  it  wiU  leave  but  little  more  journeying 
to  be  accomplished.  The  trains  stop  for  break- 
fast going  west,  and  supper  going  east.  The 
pri«!e  of  each  meal  is  sevi  ty-five  cents,  or  "  j;> 
bits,'^  but  no  better  meals  are  served  between 
New  York  and  Omaha.  Trains  stop  twenty-five 
minutes.  The  depot  is  the  finest  in  California, 
excepting  that  at  Oakland  wharf,  and  is  worthy 
of  the  road  and  State.  It  is  four  hundred  and 
sixteen  feet  long  and  seventy  wide,  and  has 
another  adjoining,  one  hundred  and  sixty  feet 
long  by  thirty-five  f  '^t  wide.  It  is  largely  of 
iron  and  glass,  and  being  open  at  the  sides  is 
peculiarly  adapted  to  the  warm  climate  of  the 
region. 

At  this  point  passengers  liave  choice  of  four 
routes  to  San  Francisco.  (1)  The  oldest-— the 
Sacramento  Biver  on  which  a  boat  runs  daily — 
leaving  usually  in  the  morning,  but  with  irreg- 
ular hours.  It  is  not  a  popular  route.  (2)  There 
is  the  old  Overland  Route — via  Stockton  and 
Livermore  Pass  and  NUes.  This  route  is  139.67 
miles  long.  Passengers  for  San  Jose  can  save 
fore  by  taking  this  route  and  changing  cars  at 
Niles,  and  wSl  reach  San  Jose  at  4:50  p.  m.  A 
ticket  at  San  Francisco  is  good  also  to  San  Jose 
by  this  route.  For  this  route  more  particularly 
see  page  (3)  There  is  the  route  via  Stock- 

ton and  Martinez — avoiding  the  heavy  grade  of 
the  Liveimore  Pass — but  making  the  distance 
151.19  mUes.  This  is  the  same  as  route  No.  2 
as  far  as  to  Tracy  Junction,  and  from  Tracy  it 
is  ider^'f^al  with  the  Overland  Boute  of  the 
Southern  Pacific.  (4)  The  popular  route  is  that 
Overland  train  from  Ogden,  crossing  the  Sacra- 
mento Biver  at  Sacramento  and  running  over 
the  Galifomia  Pacific,  the  Northern  Bailway  and 
the  San  Pablo  and  Tulare  Railroad,  all  leased 
and  operated  by  the  Central  Pacific.  By  this 
route  the  distance  to  San  Francisco  is  only  89. 79 
miles. 

Of  course,  the  weary  traveler  will  take  this 
last-named  roiite,  but  before  proceeding  he  may 
cast  his  eye  around  Sacramento— the  capital  of 
Cidifomia. 

There  are  *•  free  busses"  to  the  Arcade,  Gk)lden 
Eagle,  Capitol,  Grand  or  Orleans,  all  first-class, 
comfortable  and  well  patronized  ;  or  the  street- 
oars  will  convey  vou  near  any  one  of  these.  The 
*•  Western  "  is  also  a  good  and  popular  house. 

The  population  of  the  city  is  about  26,000. 
The  streets  are  regularly  laid  out,  amd  bejginning 
at  the  river  or  depot,  with  Front  or  First,  are 
numbered  to  Thirtj;-flrat,  and  the  atw%  streets 
are  lettered,  bMinning  with  A  on  the  north  side 
«(theoi^.    The  stores  are  ohieflj  of  taridK,  and 


residences  of  wood.  The  bruud  streets  are 
shaded  by  trees  of  heavy  foliafje,  the  elm,  wal- 
nut, poplar  and  sycamore  prevailing,  and  in  sum- 
mer are  almost  embowered  by  these  walls  of 
verdure,  that  are  ready  to  comljiat  the  spread  of 
fires.  It  is  a  city  of  beautiful  homes.  Love;/ 
cottages  are  surrounded  by  flowers,  fruits  anil 
vines,  while  some  of  the  most  elegant  mansions 
in  the  State  are  in  the  midst  of  grassy  lawns  or 
gardens  filled  with  the  rarest  flowers.  Tin; 
orange,  fig,  lime  and  palm  flourish,  and  the  air  is 
often  laden  with  nature's  choice  perfumes.  It  is 
lighted  with  gas,  and  has  water  from  the  Sacrii- 
mento  River,  supplied  by  the  Holly  system.  Two 
million  gallons  are  pumped  up  daily. 

The  climate  is  warm  ni  sununer,  but  the  heat 
is  tempered  by  the  sea  breeze  which  ascends 
the  river,  and  the  nights  are  always  pleasantly 
cool.  Xotwithstantlinj^  its  swampy  surroundinj^s 
and  the  luxuriance  of  its  semi-tropical  vegetii- 
tion,  statistics  establish  the  fact  that  it  is  one  of 
the  healthiest  cities  in  the  State. 

Among  the  more  prominent  buildings  are  the 
Courthouse,  Odd  Fellows',  Masonic,  Good  Tem- 
plars'and  Pioneer  Halls;  the  Christian  Brothers' 
College,  the  Churches,  Schools  and  the  Capitol. 
The  grammar  school  building  is  a  credit  to  the 
educational  structures  of  the  State,  and  attrarts 
attention  from  visitors  second  only  to  the  Capitol. 

The  Pioneers  are  an  association  of  Califor 
nians  who  arrived  prior  to  January,  18.50.  Tluir 
hall  has  an  antiquarian  value — especially  in  ii 
very  accurate  register  of  important  events  extend- 
ing back  to  A.  D.  1(S50.  Another  association, 
the  Sons  of  the  Pioneers,  will  become  the  luirs 
of  these  valuable  archives,  and  perpetuate  the 
association.  The  annual  business  uf  the  city 
exceeds  twenty-seven  miUicit  dollars. 

The  State  Ctipitof. —  This  is  the  most 
attractive  object  to  visitors.  It  cost  nearly 
82,rrtM»,0(M).  It  stands  at  the  west  and  thrice  tiT- 
raced  end  of  a  beautiful  park  of  eight  blocks, 
extending  from  L  to  N  street,  and  from  Tenth 
to  Fourteenth  street.  Back  of  the  Capitol,  Iml 
within  the  limits  of  the  park  and  its  beautiliil 
landscape  gardening,  are  the  State  Priutiiii,' 
Oflice  and  the  State  Armory. 

The  main  entrance  to  the  Capitol  is  opposite 
M  street.  The  ediftce  was  modeled  after  tlie 
old  Capitol  at  Washington  an<l  has  the  same 
massiveuess,  combined  with  admirable  propor- 
tions, and  rare  architectural  perfection  and 
beauty.  Its  front  is  iJ'JO  feet  and  height  80  tVft, 
above  which  the  lofty  dome  rises  to  1220  feet,  and 
is  then  surmounted  by  the  Temple  of  Liberty, 
and  Powers'  bronze  statue  of  California.  Tlie 
lower  story  is  ^t  granite,  the  other  two  of 
brick. 

Ascending  by  granite  steps,  which  extend  >H) 
feet  across  the  front,  we  reach  the  portico  with 
ten  massive  columns.  Passing  through  this,  \t« 
Stand  in  the  lofty  rotunda,  72  feet  in  diameter. 


Iff 


201 


lets  aro 
Im,  wal- 
1  ill  sum- 
walls  o£ 
pread  o£ 
Lovei/ 
uits  aii<l 
nausioiis 
lawns  or 
•3.  Til'' 
the  air  is 

l!3.       It  is 

he  Sacrii- 
iin.   Two 

the  heat 
h  ascenils 
pleasantly 
roundiiif^s 
al  vegeta- 
;  is  one  of 

(T8  are  the 
iood  Tem- 
1  Brothers' 
le  Capitol, 
[.(lit  to  the 
nd  attraets 
the  Capitol, 
of   Califor 
}f)<).    Their 
•cially  in  a 
;nts  exteiiii- 
associatioii, 
e  the  heirs 
•petuate  tlio 
A   the  city 

the  most 
cost  nearly 
d  thrice  ter- 
ght  blocks, 
from  Teiitli 
Capitol,  but 
ts  beautiful 
te    Priutill^' 

I  is  opposite 
id  after  the 
18  the  same 
able  proper- 
rfection  and 
iglit  80  iV't, 
220  feet,  and 
e  of  Liberty, 
ifornia.  'l''* 
)ther  two  of 

ch  extend  BO 

portico  witu 

ough  this,  w« 

k  in  diunetei. 


The  chambers  and  galleries  are  finished  and  fur- 
nished in  richness  and  elegance  befitting  the 
Golden  State.  The  doors  are  of  walnut  and 
California  laurel,  massive  and  elegant.  'J'lie 
State  library  has  3.'),000  volumes.  The  great 
dome  is  of  iron,  sii)>ported  by  24  fluted  Corin- 
thian columns  and  24  pilasters.  Rising  above 
this  is  a  smaller  dome  supported  by  12  fluted 
Corinthian  pillars. 

Tli<5  beauty  of  the  whole  is  equaled  in  but 
few  of  the  public  buildings  in  the  country,  and 
the  California  laurel  with  its  liigh  polish  adds  no 
little  to  the  charm.  The  steps  leading  to  the  top 
of  the  outer  dome  are  easy,  except  for  jiersons  of 
delicate  health,  an*l  the  view  to  be  gained  on  a 
clear  day,  will  amply  repny  any  exertion.  The 
extended  land-scajMi  is  incomj)arably  lovely. 
You  are  in  the  center  of  the  great  Sacramento 
Valley,  nearly  450  milr s  long  by  40  wide,  where 
fertile  soil  and  pleasant  clime  have  contributed 
to  make  one  of  the  loveliest  pictures  to  be  seen 
from  any  capit^d  in  the  world. 

Just  beneath  lies  a  city  with  many  beautiful 
:Te8idences,  half  concealed  in  the  luxuriant  ver- 
dure of  semi-tropical  trees.  Lovely  gardens 
enlarged  into  liighly  cultivated  farms — then, 
wide  extended  plains,  on  wliicli  feed  thousands 
of  cattle  and  sheeji,  groves  cf  evergreen  oak, 
long,  winding  rivers,  and  landlocked  V)ays,  white 
with  the  sails  of  coinineice,  and  along  the  east- 
em  horizon  stretch  the  rugged  Sii-rras,  with 
their  lines  of  arid  foot  hills,  perpetual  verdure, 
and  snowy  summits,  shining  like  white  sum- 
mer clouds  in  a  clear  blue  sky. 

On  the  west  the  Coast  Range  limits  the  vision 
with  its  indistinct  and  hazy  lines,  out  of  which 
the  round  top  of  Mount  Diablo  is  quite  dis- 
tinct Southward,  the  eye  takes  in  the  valley  of 
the  San  ,Joaquin,  (pronounced,  Wah-keen),  with 
its  rapidly  populating  plains. 

In  1850,  a  fire  left  only  on  -  house  .standing, 
where  are  now  21  of  the  principal  business 
blocks,  and  in  1854,  a  second  fire  nearly  de- 
stroyed the  city,  after  which  lumber  was  scarce 
at  9500  a  thousand. 

In  the  winter  of  1851-2,  a  flood  covered  the 
whole  city,  ami  led  t<i  the  construction  of  levees, 
which  were  afterward  enlarged.  Part  of  tlve 
city,  too,  was  raised  above  high-water  mark. 
Ten  years  later  a  flood  occurred,  with  from 
eight  to  ten  feet  of  water  in  all  the  parts  of  the 
city  not  raised,  and  flcKjding  the  first  stories  of 
all  houses  and  stores.  In  the  winter  of  1875-6, 
the  river  was  three  inches  higher  than  ever  be- 
fore known,  yet  the  city  was  perfectly  safe. 

As  a  distributing  poiut,  the  commercial  ad- 
vantages of  the  city  are  second  only  to  San 
Francisco.  Freight  by  the  Overland  route  is 
here  started  north  or  south.  Merchants  of  Ne- 
vada, Northern  California  and  Utah  secure  their 
freight  from  this  point  with  less  charges  and 
greater  despatch  than  from  San  Francisco,  vlvA 


all  shipments  to  the  mountains  or  beyond,  must 
go  through  this  gate.  Fruit  from  the  foot  hills, 
of  choicer  flavor  than  that  grown  in  the  warmer 
valleys,  anil  vegetables,  enormous  and  abundant, 
from  the  rich  alluvial  .soil  of  the  rivers,  concen- 
trate here  to  supply  the  dwellers  from  the  Sierras 
eastward.  During  the  summer  of  1875  the  aver- 
age weekly  shipment,  of  fruit  alone,  to  the  East, 
was  400  tons. 

The  industries  that  already  give  the  city 
prominence,  and  not  directly  connected  with  the 
railroad,  are  more  than  can  be  mentioned. 
Among  them  are  the  Capital  Woolen  Mills,  sev- 
eral carriage,  wagon  and  furniture  factories, 
several  flouring-mills,  one  of  which,  the  Pioneer, 
is  the  largest  in  the  State,  with  capacity  for  pro- 
ducing fJOO  barrels  of  flour  and  950  tons  of  barley 
per  day,  boiler,  general  iron  and  brass  works. 
Wineries  are  permanently  established  and  pro- 
ductive. 

Jit't't  Sufffir — is  manufactured  about  three 
miles  from  the  city.  Tiie  works  were  erected  at 
a  cost  of  •S275,000,  and  1,4.")0  acres  of  land  .are  in 
use  for  the  factory.  Ninety  tons  of  beets  can  be 
used,  per  day,  yielding  about  13  1-2  per  cent,  of 
saccharine  matter,  while  the  refuse  is  mixed 
with  other  feed  and  used  to  fatten  cattle. 

This  promises  to  become  one  of  the  chief  in- 
dustries of  California,  and  the  only  occasion 
where  the  descriptive  powers  of  Mr.  Nordhoff 
.seem  to  have  failed  him.  was  in  the  presence 
of  the  machinery  of  the  Johnson  process  used  in 
this  manufacture. 

The  sugar-beet  does  not  grow  to  enormous 
size,  but  the  mangel-wurzel  continues  to  grow, 
summer  and  winter,  until  it  attains  enormous 
size.  Southern  California  is  said  to  have  pro- 
duced one  of  l.lOO  pounds,  and  a  farmer  of  So- 
noma County,  had  one  (not  considering  the  top), 
three  feet  atove  the  ground.  We  believe  he 
fenced  around  it,  lest  a  cow  should  get  inside  of 
it  and  eat  out  the  heart. 

The  city  has  a  paid  Fire  Department,  and 
five  newspapers — the  Daily  and  Weekly  Record' 
L'nion,  the  Daily  and  Weekly  Bee,  The  Sacramento 
Valleii  AyricuUuruUst  (weekly),  Sacramento  Jour- 
tial  (German  tri-weekly).  and  The  Weekly  Res- 
ent', the  organ  of  the  I.  O.  (i.  T. 

Sacramento  is  intimately  connected  with  all 
parts  of  the  State  and  is  advantageously  situated 
for  manufactui'es  ami  for  wholesale  traae.  Mer- 
chants in  Nevada  find  it  a  day  or  two  nearer 
than  San  Francisco.  The  river  affords  cheap 
transportation  to  Northern  California,  and  to  and 
from  San  Francisco.  The  California  Pacific  and 
Northern  Railway  extend  their  arms  to  the  west 
side  of  the  Sacramento  "Valley  and  even  to  Napa 
and  Lake  Coiinties,  and  the  'Oregon  Division  of 
Uie  California  Pacific  controls  the  trade  to 
Southern  Oregon.  The  Sacramento  Valley  Rail- 
road, runs  to  Folsom,  controling  trade  as  far  as 
Placervillc.   By  the  Western  Pacific,  connection 


It 


if 


r! 


are 


ofFt 


REPRESENTATIVE  MEN  OF  CAI-IFORNIA. 

t.— Senator  Snrgent.    2.— R.  B.  Woodward.    3.-8ciiator  t-liaron,  (Nevada.)    4.— D.  O.  Mllli. 

5.— James  C.  Flood.    6.— W.  C.  RaI«ton.    T.— M.  S.  Latluun.    8.— Out.  Irwin. 


;.   rt 


srmm  ^.itaiwxv  FoermiMr. 


263 


>• 


is  made  at  Lathrop  with  the  San  Joaquin  Valley 
aurl  the  Southern  Pacific. 

Sacramento  has  three  daily  trains  to  San  Fran- 
cisco. (1)  The  Overland  leaving?  at  7:'2()  a.  Jt. 
(2)  The  Aita  Passenger  and  Oregon  train  leaving 
at  1 1 :30  7n,i  Stockton  and  the  Oregon  and  Sacra- 
mento at  3:30  p.  m.  The  laHt  runs  7'ia  tlio  Cali- 
fornia Pacific,  and  tourists  who  desire  to  spend 
the  day  in  Sacramento  will  find  it  best  to  take 
this  3:30  train 

Leaving  Sacramento  via  the 

CALIFOIISIA  PACIFIC  RAILROAD, 

and  crossing  he  Sacramento  River  on  a  substan- 
tial  drawbridge,  we  are  in  the  village  of  Wash- 
ington— an  unfortunate  town.  It  is  bat'ked  by 
lule  (swamp)  lands,  and  was  long  harassed  by 
tolls  exacted  to  cross  the  river.  But  its  worst 
enemy  is  tlie  flood.  The  levees  that  protect 
Sacramento  hurl  the  spring  torrents  of  the 
American  Kiver  (uniting  with  tlio  Sacramento 
just  above  the  city)  on  the  right  bank  of  tlie 
Sacramento  and  break  through  the  village. 
Sometimes  the  water  extends  from  Sacramento 
to  Davisville,  and  a  small  steamer  runs  across 
the  tule  land.  For  months  at  a  time  the  rail- 
road Ijetween  Washington  and  Davisville  has 
been  impassable  and  trains  have  had  to  take 
either  route  (2)  or  (3),  mentioned  above,  for  San 
'  Francisco. 

Along  the  river  bank,  opposite  Siw  'nento, 
is  a  narrow  strip  of  land  suihciently  i nvated 
for  farming — but  the  train  is  soon  beyond  this 
on  trestle-work,  or  a  high  embankment  ci'ossing 
the  tules.  On  this  narrow  strip  tlio  ubiquitous 
(I'ea-nut  and  chickory  grow  to  perfection.  No 
pea-nut  surpasses  these  in  size  or  flavor,  and 
tliG  cliickory  commands  a  price  equal  to  the 
Overman.  Coflfee  men  consider  it  of  superior 
quality,  and  the  traveler  will  find  it  abundant 
in  the  pure  coffee  of  all  tho  hotels  in  the  in- 
terior. 

The  tule  land  is  the  richest  in  tho^tate — a  tine 
vegetable  mold  and  deposit  I'roni  the  winter 
floods.  Many  square  miles  of  it  up  and  down 
the  river  await  reclamation,  and  much  has  been 
reclaimed.  It  wiU  be  difhcult  to  reclaim  the 
great  extent  of  it  now  before  the  eye,  because  on 
the  right  of  tho  railroad  and  several  miles  up  the 
river,  the  waters  of  Cache  Creek  spread  out  and 
sink,  and  on  tho  left  tho  watt>rs  of  Putali  Creek 
are  also  emptied,  and  high  levees  would  be  re- 
quired to  carry  ofT  so  much  water.  Tlvesc  tules 
are  the  temporary  abode  of  some,  and  tho  iierma- 
nent  abode  of  other,  varieties  of  wildfowl,  and 
the  happy  hunting-grounds  for  many  a  Nimrod. 
After  the  first  rains  come,  the  geese  anive,  tho 
white  brant  coming  first  and  in  largest  numbers. 
Three  varieties  are  common,  the  white  and 
speckled-breasted  brant,  and  the  hawnker.  Acres 
of  the  ground,  where  the  dry  tule  has  been  burned 
off  and  the  young  grass  has  sprout*^d,aro  covered 


with  the  geese,  and  sometimes  they  are  like  a 
great  cloud  in  the  air,  and  their  noise  heard 
for  a  mile  or  more. 

The  vjirieties  of  the  duck  are  many,  but  tho 
mallard,  sprig  tail,  cuuvas-back,  and  tenl  are 
most  esteemeci.  It  is  an  easy  iiiid  pleasant  task 
for  one  acquainted  with  the  flight  of  the  ducks 
to  briug  down  from  twenty  to  a  hundred  in  a 
sintrlc!  day,  besides  more  geese  than  he  is  willing 
to  "  pack."  About  five  miles  from  Sacramento 
is  an  island  (of  a  hundred  acres,  dry  and  grassy) 
wheiv''  two  or  three  days  camping  may  be  en« 
joyed  by  a  lover  of  the  sport. 

When  the  Sacramento  overflows  its  banks  and 
the  creeks  are  high,  the  tules  are  hidden  by  the 
water,  and  if  tho  wind  blows,  this  region  is  like 
Jin  open  sea.  Frequently  the  road-bed  has  been 
washed  away  and  now  it  is  protected  bv  an 
Inclined  breakwater  and  young  willows. 

It  has  been  generally,  but  erroneously,  snp* 
posed  that  hogs  and  the  Chinamen  feed  on  tlie 
tule  root.  Tho  bulbous  root  tliey  eat  is  called 
by  the  Chinese  "Foo  tau,"  and  is  imported 
larg(^ly  from  China,  where  it  grows  to  a  greater 
size  than  in  this  country.  Acrosi  the  tules  at 
Swingle's  Ranch  is  IVebster,  a  side  track  and  flog 
station. 

IhiviHvUle  is  13  miles  nearly  due  west  of 
Sacramento,  and  is  77  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco. It  has  a  jpopulation  of  300,  all  gathered 
since  the  buildmg  of  the  railroad,  and  has 
sevoral  ptor  >s,  a  dozen  saloons.  fourrestAurantfl. 
and  a  Presbyterian,  a  Metliodist  Episcopal,  ami 
a  Roman  Catholic  Church.  About  the  san:e  pro- 
lx)rtion  of  saloons  to  the  jiopulation  holds  good 
over  California,  but  that  of  churches  does  not. 
But  "  Davisville  is  not  an  immoral  place,  for  tho 
liquor  is  all  sohi  to  non-refidcnlf." 

In  18(i'J  land  wiis  worth  from  80  to  JIO  per 
acre,  and  now  sells  at  ^7")  to  §100. 

Near  Davisvilh;  are  large  orcliards,  "Brigg's" 
covering  400  acres,  and  tlie  "  Silk  Hanche  "  or- 
chard 'j.')0  acres,  but  in  dry  seasons  the  quantity 
and  quality  of  the  fruit,  is  greatly  impaired  by 
the  want  of  irrigation. 

The  failure  of  silk  culture  was  largely  owing 
to  the  hot  winds  from  the  north,  killing  the 
worms.  Attention  to  fruit  culture,  has  demon- 
strated thff  necessity  of  allowing  nothing  to  grow 
between  the  trees.'  Nor  are  the  trees  trimmed 
so  high  up  as  in  the  Eastern  States.  Here  alfalfa 
yielded  in  one  season  itfof)  worth  of  hay  to  the  acre. 

At  Davisville  tho  railroad  to  Sau  Francisco 
turns  directly  to  tho  south,  and  a  branch  runs 
north  to  Woodland  and  Knight's  Landing. 

Continuing  south  from  Davisville,  the  road 
crosses  Putah  Creek— a  stream  rising  in  Lake 
County  and  "  sinking,"  /'.  r.,  spreading  out  over 
tho  tules.  The  old  channel  is  near  the  town 
and  a  recent  channel  a  mile  further  south.  In 
summer  the  bed  will  be  dry,  and  in  winter  there 
will  be  a  torrent. 


■I:* 


■  '■■'] 


'•' 


264 


wmm  PfieiFic  tqubisw. 


Tremont — ^78  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is 
in  a  rich  farming  country  but  an  unimportant 
station.  On  the  right  are  the  Coast  Itange  dis- 
tant about  fifteen  miles. 

Uixoit — 69  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is  a 
thriving  village,  in  soil  adapted  to  wheat,  fruit 
and  grapes. 

Batavia — 65  miles  from  San  Francisco,  a 

Promising  village,  with  a  large  grain  trade,  a 
otel  and  several  stores. 

Elmira — 60  miles  from  San  Francisco,  was 
formerly  called  Yaca  Junction.  It  is  like  all  the 
towns  in  this  rich  section,  growing  rapidly  in 
importance. 


THE    VAC  A   VALLEY  AND 
LAKE  RAILROAD 


CLEAR 


extends  from  Elmira  to  Madison,  about  twenty 
miles,  and  passes  through  Vacaville  and  Winters. 
It  is  a  convenient  outlet  for  the  products  of  the 
west  side  of  this  portion  of  the  Sacramento 
Valley,  but  its  })as8enger  traffic  is  only  local  and 
the  scenery  unmteresting. 

Fairfield  and  Snixan  City  are  50  miles 
from  San  Francisco.  The  former  is  on  tlie 
right-hand  side  of  the  road,  and  the  other  on  the 
left.  Fairfield  is  the  county-seat  of  Solano 
County,  and  Suisun  the  post-office  and  business 
center.  Foii'field  has  a  Methodist  Episcopal 
Church,  and  Suisun  a  Protestant  Eijiscopal, 
Congregational  and  a  Methodist  Eiiiseopal. 
South  Suisun  is  at  the  head  of  Suisun  Slough, 
navigable  for  small  sloops  and  steamers,  and  on 
the  edge  of  a  large  tract  of  tule  laud  Its  streets 
are  subject  to  a  slight  over/iijw  during  heavy 
rains,  when  its  adobe  soil  is  a  very  tenacious 
friend  to  one's  feet.  The  hills  which  have  been 
approaching  closer  and  closer  since  we  left  Sac  - 
ramento — one  of  the  numei-ous  ridges  of  tho 
Coast  Bange — is  now  not  far  off,  but  instead  of 
encountering  these  on  the  main  line  of  the  Cali- 
fornia Pacific,  the  Overland  train  will  here  take 
the  Northern  Railway  across  the  "swamp  and 
overflowed  "  tule  lands  to  Benicia  and  the  Straits 
of  Carquinez. 

Passengers  for  the  Napa  Valley  will,  however, 
change  .ars  and  take  a  train  on  tho  main  line 
for  Napa  Junction,  where  they  will  connect  with 
a  train  from  San  Francisco  for  Calistoga. 

Soon  after  leaving  Suisun  one  may  see  that  it 
has  been  difficult  to  find  a  solid  spot  fur  the 
road-bed.  Fabulous  stories  are  told  by  the  rail- 
road employees  about  tho  impossibility  of  find- 
ing a  bottom.  It  is  even  said  that  a  horse  and 
cart  employed  in  grading  broke  through  the 
crost  and  were  found  afterward  in  the  San  Fran- 
cisco Bay.  But  it  is  believed  that  after  a  couple 
of  years  of  patient  work  a  solid  resting  place  has 
been  found,  and  the  track  will  not  smk  out  of 
sight  again.  These  tules,  like  those  near  Sacra- 
mento and  elsewhere,  are  the  home  of  wild 


geese,  and  a  favorite  resort  for  the  hunter. 
Across  the  tules  on  tho  left  can  be  seen  the 
low  range  of  Montezuma  Hills,  on  the  north 
bank  of  the  Sacramento  Biver,  and  nearly  in 
front  of  the  train,  Mt.  Diablo.  Suisun  Bay 
which  receives  the  waters  of  tho  Sacramento 
and  San  Joaquin  rivers,  and  disehar^os  them 
through  tho  Strait  of  Carquinez,  will  be  on  tho 
left  as  the  train  passes,  leal  and  Goody cat^s 
are  two  unimportant  stations. 

Army  Point — 35  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
is  on  the  military  reservation  for  Benicia  Ai'senal 
— a  signal  station,  and  tho  oldPaoiflc  Mail  Dock 
the  Overland  trains  pass  Ijy.  Aor  ss  the  Strait 
of  Martinez — tho  county  seat  of  Contra  Costa 
County — may  be  seen  snugly  nestled  among 'ho 
hills,  and  on  the  right  are  the  buildings  con- 
nected with  the  U.  S.  Arsenal,  and  tho  town  of 

llvnlcla — 33  miles  from  San  Francisco.    It 

IS  a  population  of  about  1,500,  a  manufactory 
of  af^ricultural  imph^ments,  several  tanneries, 
two  flourishing  private  schools,  Congregational, 
Protestant  Episcoi^al  and  Catholic  churches, 
and  many  other  real  and  prospective  things  of 
which  tho  people  Iwast. 

In  early  days  Benicia  was  a  rival  of  Sun  Fran- 
cisco for  the  comuKU'cial  sujjremacy  of  the  coast, 
and  it  was  doubtful  for  some  time  which  would 
bear  off  the  fortune. 

At  B.'nioia  the  train  will  board  the  monster 
ferryljoat,  "Solano,"  tho  largest  for  her  class 
afloat.  Her  length  over  all  is  424  feet;  lengtli 
of  l)ottom  406  feet;  her  extreme  width  over 
guards  116  feet;  her  draught  when  loaded  6  feet 
6  inches.  She  has  two  vertical  beam  engines, 
with  60-inch  boi'e  cylinders  of  11  feet  stroke,  and 
both  engines  are  placed  on  the  center  line  of  tlu' 
boat  to  give  room  on  deck  for  four  tracks.  Eaeii 
wheel  30  feet  in  diameter,  with  24  buckets,  each 
17  feet  face,  is  driven  by  an  independent  engine, 
that  the  boat  may  be  easily  handled.  There  are 
8  steel  boilers,  each  28  Ket  long,  with  19,640 
square  feoL  of  heating  surface,  and  4,000  horse 
power.  To  support  the  great  weight  Pratt 
trusses  are  placed  directly  under  the  tracks. 
The  hull  is  divided  into  12  water-tight  compart- 
ments. At  each  end  of  the  boat  are  four 
rudders  11>4  feet  long  by  5^2  feet  deep,  coupled 
together  and  worked  by  hydraulic  apparatus. 
The  four  tracks  will  accommodate  48  freight 
cars  with  locomotive,  or  24  passenger  coaches. 
The  aprons  at  Benicia  and  Port  Costa  ai*e  eacli 
100  feet  long,  weigh  150  tons,  and  are  worked 
by  hydraulic  power. 

Port  (Jo»ta — 32  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
is  a  point  for  loading  sea-going  vessels  witii 
wheat.  Leaving  Port  Costa,  the  road  follow> 
the  Straits  of  Carquinez,  through  which  all  the 
waters  from  Mount  Shasta  on  the  north  to  Tejon 
Pass  on  the  south — about  500  miles,  and  from 
the  SieiTas  on  tho  east  to  tho  Coast  Bange  on 


TME  ^.i^QiFitj  TQimmr. 


265 


the  west  from  20  to  200  miles,  force  their  way 
to  the  ocean. 

f  alotia — 3U  miles  from  Sau  Francisco,  is  of 
but  littlo  importance. 

Vallefo  Jiim'tlou — 29  niilos  from  San  Frijn- 
cisco,  is  only  of  importance  as  the  point  of 
transfer  to  Vallejo,  and  the  Napa  Branch  of  the 
California  Pacific  Railroad.  A  f  frryboat  crosses 
the  moutli  of  the  Straits  to  the  depot  and  wharf 
at  South  Vallejo.  The  town  is  visible  on  the 
right,  across  the  water,  and  Mure  Island  is  seen 
with  a  lighthouse  at  the  eastern  end.  On  Mare 
Island  is  the  U.  S.  Navy  Yard.  Most  of  the 
buildings  are  concealed  fri)in  view — but  after 
ekirting  the  Hun  Pablo  Buy  for  a  few  minutes. 
Home  of  them  will  come  iii  sight.  Tlu*  Island 
was  named  from  a  mare  found  upon  it  in  early 
davs,  and  is  pronounced  in  one  syllable. 

Tin'tneff,  Pinole  and  Sobraute  nvo  stations 
which  tlio  tourist  will  be  glad  to  pass,  for  he 
will  keep  his  eyes  across  the  water  to  tiie  charm- 
ing hills  beyond. 

Following  the  liorizon  from  Vallejo  to  the 
left  or  west  and  south,  the  tirst  depri>ssion  in 
the  hills  will  indicate  the  direction  of  the  Na])a 
Valley,  the  second,  the  Sonoma  Vallov,  and  in 
the  farthest  i-eeess  of  the  Bav  toward  tlie  nortli- 
west,  lie  Petaluma  and  the  entrance  to  the 
Itussian  River  Valley.  South  of  this,  and  just 
north  of  tlio  highest  peak  on  the  opposite  side — 
Mt.  Tamalpais — is  San  Itafaid,  sheltered  among 
the  high  hills,  and  Sau  Quentin  to  tholett  in  tlie 
foreground,  and  the  Two  Brothers  and  their 
lighthouse  about  the  lino  dividing  San  Pablo 
and  San  Francisco.  But  Mt.  Tamalpais  and  San 
llafuel  are  not  far  from  San  Francisco,  and  the 
Mount,  with  its  long  gulch  washed  out  of  its 
face,  will  bo  a  landmark  until  we  reach  the 
city. 

dan  Pablo — 18  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
would  be  a  flourishing  suburb  of  San  Francisco, 
if  the  land  was  not  all  incluiled  in  a  Spanish 
grant,  and  if  the  titles  of  the  land  did  not  baffle 
up  to  this  time  all  the  lawyers  of  the  country. 
It  is  an  old  Spanish  town  with  a  pojiidation  of 
300,  and  with  a  Gatholio  and  a  Presbyterian 
church. 

Babbet,  IG.l  miles  from  San  Fi'ancisco. 

Steoe,  13.y       •'        "      "  «' 

Point  Isabkl,  12.8     "      "  " 

Highland,  11.7         "      "  " 

Dbijawabe  Stbeet,  10.4    "  "     and 

Stock  Yabds,  8.7  "  " 

Are  stations  for  local  trains. 

Nearing  Oakland,  one  will  And  on  his  left, 
prominently  situated  near  the  foot  of  the  Contra 
Oosta  range,  the  State  University  at  Berkeley. 
It  is  controlled  by  regents  appointed  by  the 
State,  and  furnishes  opportunity  for  all  who 
desire  to  obtain  classical  or  scientific  education 
at  the  highest  grade  at  the  public  expense. 

South  of  Mt.  Tamalpais  may  be  seen  the 


Golden  Gate,  with  Alcatraa  Island,  ft  naval 
station,  across  its  east<'rn  end. 

San  Francisco  will  have  been  recoprnized  on 
the  ])romontory  soutlj  of  tl>e  Golden  Gate,  and 
the  Oakland  wharf  extending  out  into  the  bay 
toward  it,  and  the  large  Island  near  the  wharf 
is  Y<>rba  Buona,  or  Goat  Island,  occupied  as  a 
fort  bv  the  U.  S.  Army 

Oiihhiml — 0>i  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is 
the  IGth  Street  Station  in  West  Oakhind.  But 
street-cars  or  carriages  will  convey  passengers 
to  any  i)art  of  the  city,  or  they  may  ride  to  the 
wharf  and  there  take  the  local  trains  for  Oak- 
land, East  Oakland  or  Alameda. 

Oakland  is  a  suburb  of  San  Francisco,  bat 
rather  such  a  suburb  as  Brooklyn  is  to  New 
York.  It  is  beautiful  for  situation,  and  boasts 
a  climate  much  preferred  to  that  of  San  Fran- 
cisco; the  trade-winds  from  the  Pacific,  which 
are  fierce  and  cold,  and  often  heavy  with  fog 
there,  being  much  softened  in  crossing  the  bay. 
This  has  attract<>d  many  to  make  it  their  resi- 
dence,  though  obliged  to  do  business  in  San 
Francisco,  and  about  15,000  passengers  daily 
cross  on  the  half-hourly  and  splendid  ferry- 
boats, and  the  number  of  trips  are  increased 
every  year.  The  population  of  the  city  in- 
creases rapidly,  and  is  nearly  50,000.  As 
measures  of  its'onterijrise  and  prosperity  it  may 
be  stated  that  a  quarter  of  a  million  dollars 
were  expended  in  building  a  court-house  and 
county  jail.  There  are  three  savings  banks,  two 
national  gold  banks,  five  lines  of  horse-cars, 
three  flouring  and  four  planing  mills,  an  iron 
and  a  brass  foundry,  two  potteries,  one  patent 
marble  works,  a  jute  bag  factory,  three  tan- 
neries and  other  establishments  emjiloying  manv 
mechanics.  On  the  public  schools,  of  which 
Oakland  is  justly  very  proud,  nearly  86,000  are 
monthly  expended,  and  nearly  a  quarter  of  a 
millionsdollars  value  in  property  is  owned  by 
the  department.  The  State  University  is  with- 
in the  city  limits.  Its  site,  which  has  been 
named  Berkeley,  is  on  the  northern  border  of 
the  city  and  has  a  direct  feny  to  San  Francisco, 
and  many  families  are  planting  themselves  there, 
attracted  by  its  natural  beauty  and  the  educa- 
tional and  social  advantages  which  cluster 
around  it.  The  University  is  open  to  students 
of  both  sexes,  and  tuition  is  free.  The  number 
of  students  exceeds  200.  By  special  law,  the 
sale  of  intoxicating  liquors  is  forbidden  within 
two  miles  of  this  University. 

There  are  twenty  churches  in  Oakland,  of 
which  sixteen  own  houses  of  worship.  Some 
of  them  are  elegant  and  costly;  the  First  Pres- 
byterian Church  costing  over  865,000,  and  the 
First  Congregational  a  larger  sum.  Seven 
newspapers  are  published,  two  daily,  the  rest 
weekly. 

The  rides  in  and  around  Oakland,  for  variety 
of  attractive  features,  are  rarely  equalled.   Many 


'I 


rm: ■  *f 


f 


200 


WMB  e^nciFic  romsiasr. 


oomo  over  from  Son  I'ran- 
c'lHco  in  tlio  niorninM;  <'X 
proHHlv  to  onjoy  thiH  plooK- 
nro.  "Lftko  MoVritt,  a  Inmn- 
tifnl  Hlipot  of  water,  w 
anioni;  tlio  attractioiiH  valiiili 
noiii*  t'uil  to  vixit,  and  with 
wliicli  thiiiisaiiils  liav«  luif^lil 
and  happy  nicuioricH  asHuciu- 
ttil. 

Thouf^h  iiicorporafcd  as  a 
city,  Oakland  ih   thoroii^dily 
rural.     A  very  small  iKJition 
of  lh(^  bnxincss  jrart  around 
tli<!   chict'  raiiiuad  station  in 
built   up   solidly,    lnit  evory- 
wluTo  »'ls<*    tlui  lionsfs  stand 
di'tnclu'd     and    usually    sur 
rounded  by  a  liberal  expaiis** 
t»f    ^rardens,    grass-plat,    and 
shrubbery  which  remind  ono 
of  an  eastern  villajje.      Livo 
nak.H    alKxind,  and    sliow    by 
thoir     leaning    over    toward 
\\w  cast,  the    foiiHtancy   and 
strength  of  tlie  summer  tra«l«!- 
winiis.      (i<-raniums,  roROH, 
fuchsias,  callas,  verbenas,  and 
many    tro|)ical     plants    and 
flowers     grow     nixmiantly, 
^  never  suffering  from  outdoor 
winter  exixisine,  and  finding 
a  soil  of  surpassing  richness 
and  fertility.     Fruit  trees  de- 
velop  into  bearing  in  a  third 
or  hiilf  th(^  time  .usually  re- 
nuindon  the  Atlantic  C'oast. 
i'ht!  city  is  favored  with  oni> 
rare    a<lvantage.       T'le   rail- 
road company  charg**  no  faro 
on  their  local  trains,  between 
stations  within  thocity  lim'tts. 
Tlipse  trains  aro  half-hourly, 
most  of  tlio  day,  and  thcro 
ar»i  noarly  flvo  miles  of  rail- 
roa«l,     and    cit^ht    stations 
within  tho  city  limits.     Tho 
conveni«n<!o   of  this   ridini? 
freely  at  all  hours,  can  har«l- 
ly  1x1  understooil  by  thoso 
who  havo  not  experienced 
it.     The  lino  of    tho  IfK-al 
roatl  is  clirectly  through  tho 
city,   and  only  local  trains 
mn  upon  it,  all  other  pas- 
senger trains,  and  all  freight 
trains  taking  tho  main  rood 
dose  to  the  water's  edge. 
Of  all  tho  suburbs  of  San 
Francisco,   Oakland   is  tho 
most  popular.     Its  growth 
excoeds  tliat  of  San  Fran' 


enfi 


FMJs  eaciFw  rairi^isr. 


967 


jrnn- 

a  lH>au- 

tor,     is 

wliich 

I    wit  It 

111  i^rlit 

<1 


eisoo.  Tlio  timo  rcqnirfd  to  rcwh  it  from 
Goliforniu  Strr'ct  is  Ifss  tlian  is  n'qiiirfld  to  «''* 
np-town  from  VViUl  Htr<H»t  ia  New  York,  aiwl 
once  roociliod,  tlu»  mi-rchaiit,  weary  with  tlm 
eorefi  of  tli«  Inisy  diiy,  may  find  ii  lioiim  with  ii 
more  tronicul  luxurianct«  of  fniit  and  flowers, 
iilmost  tliu  same  in  Hummer  and  wintiT,  and 
(tconory  scarcely  loss  iiictnresque  tliau  the  hanks 
of  the  Hudson  atFord. 

As  the  train  curves  from  the  main  huid  over 
the  wator  toward  Han  Francisco,  ono  may  see 
on  the  left  tho  extensive  sjiops,  car-housos,  ett;., 
at  Oaklantl  Point.  Hero  the  railroad  company 
own  al>out  125  acres  wf  hind,  and  Iiavc;  exteii- 
nive  buildinp^s  and  repair  shops.  On  their  dock 
they  remod(>l  or  Ituihl  tliiir  forry -boats,  the 
boats  of  tho  California  Steam  Navipition  (Com- 
pany, and  hero  tlie  Western  DoVeU>|)m(>nt  C!oni- 
pany  build  all  tho  bridges  and  frame  all  ]iot4>ls, 
warehouses,  and  otlier  buildings  for  the  C'l'iitrai, 
California,  and  Southern  Pacirtc  IlailroiKls. 
Several  hundred  men  are  constantly  employed. 
There  is  n  roundhouse  for  twenty-one  en(fines, 
and  tracks  for  the  extra  jiossenger  cars  nt'edcd 
at  this  important  terminus.    ' 

A  channel  has  Iwen  ilredgod  out  from  this 
yard  to  the  bay,  which  shows  ]>lainly  fronj  tlio 
cars  on  the  left  liand.  Tho  tniin  formerly  ran 
out  on  trestle  work,  built  into  sea  water  farther 
than  any  other  in  the  world,  and  also  the  largcHt 
in  waters  of  this  depth,  and  tho  l)est  tiuiit 
wodlen  pier  in  the  world.  It  was  built  ten 
years  a(?o,  and  when  lost  examined  a  few  Urtdo 
were  found  in  piles  without  bark;  but  the 
strength  of  the  pier  waa  not  appreciably  im- 
paired. It  is  2.8  mile'i  long,  including  tliu 
mole  and  tho  trestle,  lieforotho  mole  was  con- 
atmctod  the  danger  from  tiro  was  great,  and  is 
still  great  on  the  trestle  and  about  the  wharves, 
and  all  engines  empl(»yed  for  shifting  are  tittecl 
with  force  pumps,  and  can  be  used  as  steam  fii'e 
engines  at  a  moment's  notice. 

Instead  of  going  to  sea  in  railroad  cars,  and 
risking  tho  fall  of  a  worm-eaten  trestle,  tlie  rail- 
road company  have  proNnded  a  secure  and  sub- 
stantial track  from  tlie  town  to  tho  wharf.  Tho 
trestle  has  been  tilled  in  with  ro<'k  and  earth  for 
a  distance  of  1.8  miles.  The  immense  ruuler- 
taking  occupied  hundreds  of  meu  for  two  years, 
and  is  one  of  tho  mighty  and  resolute  enter- 
prises of  the  age.  On  i\w  western  extremity  is 
the  Oakland  wharf,  tho  finest  and  most  com- 
modious depot  on  the  coast.  Tho  tourist  must 
understand  its  adaptation  to  the  local  travel  as 
well  as  the  overland  jiassenger.  The  large 
central  biiilding  is  I'iO  feet  wide  and  3;}0  feet 
long,  and  ou  either  side  are  two  smaller  build- 
ings, GO  feet  wide  and  t>(JO  feet  long.  Extending 
eastward  from  the  main  central  building,  each  is 
48  feet  wide  and  830  feet  long  to  cover  the  ex- 
tension of  the  trains  bi^yond  tlie  main  building. 
The  main  buUding  is  for  the  Overland  and  %U 


trains  except  tho  Oakland  and  Alameila  local 
travel. 

In  the  second  story  of  tho  main  building  are 
the  large  waiting-room  for  passengers  and  the 
oHlces  tor  tlie  Division  snperintt'ndeut  and  his 
associate's.  From  this  waiting-room  pass(>nger8 
go  direitly  on  to  tlie  upper  deck  of  the  ferry- 
boat. Tho  waiting-rooms  below  have  un  exit  to 
the  lower  deck  of  the  ferry-boat.  The  building 
has  a  crescent  arched  rov.i,  'onstrncted  of  galvan- 
ized iron  and  glass — about  3-.'*  Is'ing  glass.  The 
aiTangcnient  for  light  not  only  a«linits  it  to  the 
thjpot  in  general,  but  by  windows  on  a  level 
with  the  cars,  li^rjit  is  admitt<>d  to  tho  cars  i.i 
the  dejiot,  and  the  Kej)aranon  of  smokers,  ped- 
lers,  eti\,  from  ladii's  is  all  that  the  most  fastid- 
ious  could  desire. 

Besides  complete  accommodations  for  tho  or- 
dinary <'xigencies  of  travel,  the  local  trains  are 
so  arranged  that  the  dwellers  of  Oakland  cannot 
ride  to  the  wharf  ami  return  without  paying 
fare — as  many  were  wont  to  do  prior  to  its 
erection. 

On  the  mole  thr>ro  are  eleven  tracks,  and  the 
slips  are  about  ().")()  feet  long.  Tho  gates  and 
aprons  are  all  raised  and  lowered  by  hydraulio 
apparatus.  The  old  wharf,  a  mile  nearer  Ban 
Irancisco,  is  used  for  freight.  There  are  three 
slips  and  four  piers,  tho  latter  having  an  aggre- 
gate width  of  31MJ  feet.  At  these  eight  sea-going 
ships  can  be  loaded  simultaneously.  Nearly  all 
the  lumlier  for  the  whole  treeless  region  in 
Southern  California  and  Arizona  iu  i>art  is 
loiuled  from  vessels  at  this  wliai-f.  And  from 
this  whai'f  freight  cars  cross  to  the  immense 
freight  depot  at  tho  foot  of  Fourth  Street  in 
San  Francisco,  a  lioat  carrying  at  once  20  loaded 
freight  cars  and  2U  car  loails  of  cattle. 

There  is  tine  angling,  chiefly  for  smelt,  from 
these  wharves .  Four  or  five  of  these  fish  may 
Ik*  caught  at  a  single  cast.  AVithin  two  years, 
EasttTii  salmon  have  In-en  jtloced  in  these  waters, 
and  occasion,  lly  these  are  caiight.  California 
salmon  do  not  take  the  hook,  beeatise  people 
and  fish  are  siiarp  on  this  side  of  the  Continent. 

At  Oakland  wharf,  passengers  and  baggage 
are  transferred  to  i  le  spacious  and  elegant  ferry- 
boats, ouwliic.>  hacknii  11  and  liotel-nuincrs  will 
bo  sure  to  speak  for  themselves. 

The  distance  from  the  end  of  the  wharf  across 
the  water  to  the  ferry-house  iu  San  Francisco 
is  4.4  miles,  and  is  ordinarily  made  ii»  twenty 
minutes.  Wlien  the  wind  is  blowing,  nono  but 
tho  most  rugged  persons  should  venture  to 
stand  outside  the  cabin;  but  if  it  is  jiracticable 
to  gain  tho  view,  there  are  many  points  of  great 
intt>rest. 

Itaii  <>,  Sun  Frnnrisco, — The  bay  is  large 
enough  to  float  the  navies  of  the  world,  and 
lM>autified  by  a  rare  combination  of  island, 
mountain,  city  and  plain.  On  the  right,  jiass- 
an  Irancisco,  and 


i 


'I 


I'- 


f- 


ing  to  San 


near  the  wharf,  is 


268 


WMM   F,^€XFia  TOt'MtlSr. 


Qoat  Island,  a  military  renervatiou,  nnd  the  sub- 
ject of  con.si«leral)l()  ajrikdiun  in  CongreHS.  The 
qnarterft  of  tlio  ofticers  an<l  men  tir<>  s;>ou  on  the 
east  si(li.\  and  on  tlio  sontli  end  are  a  fofi-beU  and 
whistlft  that  arc  oft^rn  railed  into  ivqnisition. 
Th»>  Golden  Gate  proper  is  north,  or  to  th«  right 
of  the  city — five  miic»  long  and  about  a  mile 
•W'.ie. 

It  is  strongly  fortified  at  various  ]ioiut3.  Al- 
cairoK,  at  the  "end  of  the  a&ii^  and  entrance  to 
the  bay,  commands  tlie  whole  pnasaife  from  the 
ocean. 

An^yel  Island,  north  of  Aleatraz,  in  another 
military  reservation,  well  fortified.  Northwesl 
of  this  may  V)o  seim  the  towerinf.-,  peak  of  Mount 
Tamalpais,  the  h>H;ho.st  near  the  oity.  On  tlie 
right,  one  may  look  north  to  the  San  I'ablo  Bay, 
and  Ijehind  him  see  oLoHsic  Berkeley,  Oakland 
and  A  Jimeda,  with  tlie  Coast  Hilla  in  the  baok- 
fifronr.d.  South,  tho  view  extends  over  the  bay 
toward  San  »Jose,  und  everywhere,  except  where 
the  city  stands  pad  through  the  Golden  Gate, 
ifc  is  shnt  in  by  mountains. 

The  trade-winds  and  fogs  are  shut  out  from 
CSolifoirnia  by  the  Coa.st  Range,  the  fogs  not  ris- 
ing above  1 ,000  feet,  and  when  tliey  swet^p  down 
the  coast,  drive  tlirough  the  Gohlen  Gate  with 
pent-up  fury.  The  heated  interior  makes  a  fun- 
nel of  this  passage  and.  creates  a  demand  for  the 
lacfi  shawl  and  seal-skin  saeqtie  on  the  same  day. 

Tlte  ferry -house  where  tlie  trip  across  the  Con- 
tinent ends,  J8  well  arranged  and  i)rovided  with 
everything  necessary  for  the  ■iccommodation  of 
the  throngs  of  passengers  passing  througli  it. 
The  baggage  department  of  the  railroad  is  here, 
and  ia  connected  by  telegraph  with  every  station 
on  tho  rood,  giving  ail  possible  facilitiea  for 
tracing  stray  Ivaggage,  The  Iohh  of  baggage  l)y 
tiud  riiilroiH^  company  is  ii'inost  an  unknown  ui- 
oide^it,  arid  the  JPuc'tN  Cranslor  Company  is 
wjCiaUj  reliable. 

/?«  */  yrtiueinco. — 'I  ho  ferry-boat  lands  at 
the  foot  of  Market  Strec^t,  which  is  fast  becoming 
tho  leading  business  artery  of  the  city.  ^  Every 
dorse-car  line,  except  two,  eitlier  runs  into  or 
0T08se>»  it,  and  by  direct  communication  or  trans- 
fer, nil  connect  \vith  tho  ferry  at  its  foot,  liy 
the  ae  cars,  or  by  carriages  in  waiting,  the  hotels, 
■which  are  aliout  a  half-mile  awav,  are  easily 
reached.  Tho  Grand,  th«5  Palace  hotels,  are  on 
Market,  at  the  corner  of  New  Montgomery 
Street;  tho  Baldwin  on  Market  Street  comer 
of  Eddy;  tho  Lick  (on  the  European  plan),  on 
Montgomery  Street  near  Market;  the  Occidental 
and  the  Kuss  on  MontgOiO.erv  between  Bush 
and  I'iiie,  and  tho  Commercial  on  New  Mout- 
gi^^'^ry  Avenue  comer  of  Kearney.  As  to  tlieir 
rwpective  merits,  we  nxust  decline  to  make 
oompariaons  or  give  free  advert.i«?ments.  Hotel 
coacheH  charge  for  transfer  of  each  passengt-r 
iwid  ba.gg»i.go  from  ferry  to  hotel.  The  Transfer 
OompHny  will  carry  Uaggage  alone  for  50  cents. 


On  arriving  at  tlie  foot  of  Market  street,  Sati 
Francisco,  witli  cheeks  delivered  to  the  I'acitii! 
Transfer  Company,  and  carriages  engaged  throu^l) 
the  messenger  of  the  same  company  that  boar( lid 
tlie  tiain,  one  will  .soon  reach  his  destination  in 
the  city.  Street  cars  pass  the  priiicloal  hot.l>, 
and  run  lo  all  (piarters  of  the  city,  lieginniiii; 
uii  tlie  .south,  one  linds  tlie  cars  of  the  Alissioh- 
street  road;  next,,  cars  throu^di  Market  to  Fillh, 
and  Fifth  to  Townsend,  to  the  general  ollicfs  nf 
tlie  Central  and  ISouthern  Pacific  ibiilroads  ami 
the  depot  of  the  northern  division  of  the  Soutli- 
'  rn  i'acific  Kailroad.  Tliese  *;ars  connect  \<s 
transfer  with  cars  for  the  Pot'ero  &  South  San 
Francisco.  Next  are  the  Hayes  \'alley  cai>, 
running  through  Market  street  to  Ninth,  theiK  f 
ihrniigii  Hayes  \'alley  to  Lone  ^bmntain  anil  tin' 
(iolilen  (iate  Park,  and  the  Mark.^t  and  ValeiK  i:i 
street  cars,  through  M.irket  to  about  Thirteeiit!i 
street,  and  tlience  on  Valencia  to  Twinty-sixtli 
street.  These  cars  connect  at  Valencia  street  iiy 
transfer  to  the  Market  street  exten.  i'"._  '•iinuiiii,' 
on  Market  to  Seventeenth  street. 

Next  are  the  cars  of  the  omnibus  I'.ne  ruiiniii!,' 
up  Market  .street  u  tew  luocks  to  the  (irand  lin- 
tel and  there  transferring  in  one  direction  to 
Mnntgoniery  street  and  North  Heach,  and.  in 
anoiher  direction  to  the  depot  of  the  northurn 
division  of  the  Soutliern  Pacific  Railroad  aim 
the  general  otlices  of  the  C.  &  S.  P.  li.  II.,  and  to 
a  third  line  running  onf  of  Howard  street  In 
Tweiity-sixtli. 

Next  are  cars  of  the  Central  road,  ruiinini^ 
along  Abirket  a  few  blocks  to  Pine,  hence  Ik 
ijone  Mountain,  crossintr  .Montgomery  and  Ive.u- 
ney  streets  in  the  vicinity  of  the  priiici|ial  retull 
stores.  Next  are  the  cars  of  ih^  .Sutter-stit"  t 
road,  running  up  Market  a  few  blocks  to  Sidi- 1, 
and  then  connecting  with  a  cable  load  to  Loiib 
Mountain. 

From  a  point  on  the  cable  road  at  crossing  nf 
Larkin  street  transfers  are  given  to  cross  roads — 
one  running  north  on  Polk  street  and  the  otlur 
.south  on  Larkin  street. 

Next  are  the  cars  of  the  North  Beach  and 
Mi.ssion  roads, starting,  like  nearly  nil  the  otliei-. 
on  Mttiket  street,  and  soon  turning  olV  for  tali- 
fornia  and  Kearney  .streets,  at  wliicli  jujint  tran- 
fers  are  given  to  the  North  Beach  oi-  to  the  depit 
of  the  northem  division  oi  the  Southern  Pacih' 
Railroail  and  the  general  olKco's  of  C.  &  S.  P.  K.  H. 
at  Fourth  and  'I'ownsend  streets  or  to  car.s  rni- 
ning  on  F'olsom  street  to  'I'wenty-sixth. 

Lastly,  on  the  extreme  right,  is  another  car  >  f 
the  Central  road,  which  runs  oast  the  iiost-ollii  >■ 
and  through  the  vicinity  of  tlie  juincipal  retiil 
stores,  and  then  crosses  Market  street  and  di>\\!i 
Sixth  street  to  Hrennan. 

'I'c  n-niy  jK)ints  there  are  several  lines,  hut  In 
asce  "tain  the  moM  direct  is  peiplexing  Ui  tli' 
stra'iger.     For  such,  ob.serve  the  following: 

For  the  Grand  and  Palace  Hotels,  Baldwii,, 


Fmm  ^^€iFW  Foemisr. 


2(59 


treet,  San 
lie  I'acifiO 
fdthrou;;!) 
it  board' '<  I 
inatioii  in 
al  hol.l>, 
Jegimiiiii; 
Missidii- 

I  to  Fifili, 

oIKCi'M    I'f 

omls  iiinl 
111'  South- 
nivi'ct  liy 
S,(utli  San 
tlley  cars, 
til,  theiiii^ 

II  and  till' 
\  \'aleii(i:i 

Tliirteeiitli 
f,iity-.sixtli 
a  street  l>y 
''iinuiiii,' 

le  ruiiniti!,' 
draiid  Ilo- 
irectioii  to 
ii,  aiK*  ill 
«  nortlium 
,ilroud  aiiu 
.  1'.,  and  to 
J  street  to 

id,  rnniiiii!; 
li,  hen<;i!  to 
f  and  Kt',11- 
ci|)al  rt'tail 
iiitter-strt"  t 
<  to  Si'ti'  I, 
lail  to  Luiiti 

crosHi!i)T  lit' 
OSS  roads — 
1  the  otlier 

Beach  and 
tlie  othins. 
)ir  for  Call. 
point  trail-- 
;o  the  dejii't 
lern  Pacitii' 
!<S.1M{.  K. 
,o  cars  run- 
h. 
jther  car  if 

e  JIOHt-odir'' 

ii'ij'al  retail 
',  uiid  down 

iiiea,  but  t  ' 
ing   to    til' 
wing: 
S  Duldwin, 


Lick  IIou.se  (on  Montgomery,  near  Market),  and 
any  point  on  Market  street,  take  tlie  cars  of  the 
Market-street  line.  I*'or  the  Occidental  Hotel, 
Brooklyn  and  Iluss  House,  take  the  two-horse 
cars  at  the  Central  road.  For  the  International 
or  Cosmopolitan  Uike  the  cars  of  the  North  Beach 
and  Mission  road. 

For  tJie  general  offices  of  the  C.  P.  &  S.  R  R.  R. 
take  the  Market  and  Fifth  street  (onehoisc)  cars 
of  the  Market-street  road,  or  .':e  cars  of  the  Om- 
nibus road;  for  the  United  St.ites  Mint,  the  cars 
of  the  Market  au'l  Fifth  street  road ;  for  tiio 
post-office  and  custom-house,  take  the  one-liorse 
cars  of  the  Central  road ;  for  Lone  Mountain, 
take  the  cars  of  the  Sutter-street  road;  for  the 
Cliff  House  or  Gohltn  CJate  'I'ark,  take  Market- 
street  cars  to  (Jeary  street,  and  then  the  (ieary- 
strest  cars;  for  Woodwaid's  (Jardens  take  the 
City  Railroad  or  the  Mission-street  cars. 

A  feature  of  San  Francisco  is  the  cable  roads. 
Of  these  there  are  six  jlI  present ;  tlie  Clay-street 
Hill,  tlie  California-street,  the  Geary-street,  the 
Sutter-street,  the  Montgomery-avenue  and  M'lr- 
ket-street.  The  cable  of  the  last  only  extends 
to  the  ferry. 

The  cable-roads  are  far  preferable  to  any  other 
when  they  run  in  a  direction  to  suit  tin;  traveler. 
They  do  not  wear  on  the  nerves  by  com|ielling 
one  to  witness  cruelty  to  animals.  'J'he  cars 
make  better  speed  than  the  horse-cars,  and  climb 
steep  hills  with  ])erfect  ease  and  descend  with 
like  safety.  The  cable  is  a  wire-rope,  three 
inches  in  circninference.  It  runs  in  an  iron  tube 
beneath  the  surface  of  the  street,  and  between 
the  rails.  An  open  slit,  three-cjuarters  of  an  inch 
wide,  in  seen,  allowing  an  iron  arm  to  pass  down 
from  the  car  or  "■  dummy."  This  arm  is  made 
to  catch  the  cable  by  a  secure  grip,  or  is  instantly 
released  by  an  ojieratororengineei  on  the  dummy. 
Of  these  roads,  the  California-street  is  the  jiride 
of  the  city.  The  road-lied  is  solid  ma.sonry  or 
concrete,  and  the  frame-work  solid  iron.  The 
tourist  should  not  fail  Ko  see  the.se  roads.  'J'he 
Clay-street  road  j«is.ses  ever  the  highest  elevation 
in  the  city,  and  the  ("alifornia-street  road  prisses 
the  palatial  resiflences  of  (lovernor  Stanford, 
Charles  Crocker,  Airs.  Ho[>kins,  and  others. 
Whether  tlio  overland  traveler  resorts  to  a  hotel 
or  to  the  liomo  of  friends,  tho  chango  from  a 
week  in  tho  railroa^l  cars  to  Itospitable  quarters 
and  richlj  spreotl  tables  will  be  so  grateful  as  at 
first  to  dispel  all  consciousness  of  fatigue;  but 
tired  nature  will  assert  herself,  and  tho  balance 
of  tho  (fay  after  arrival  Imj  probably  given  to 
rest. 

Perhaps  the  luxury  of  a  Turkish  bath  sliould 
bo  had  at  cho  earliest  moment.  "'Tho  Ham- 
mam,"  erected  by  Senator  Jones  on  Dupont 
Htreet,  near  Mark<;t,  at  a  cost  of  nearly  :820U,000, 
is  in  truly  Oriental  style.  Tho  building  is  an 
ornament  to  tho  city,  and  in  it  dusty  travelers 
will  ezpcrienco  mingled  wonder  and  delight  at 


its  Mohammedan  architecture,  i)erfect  appohit- 
ments,  and  complete  adaptation  to  restore  a 
sense  of  cleanliness  and  ;rive  solid  refn>ahmont 
to  both  botly  and  spirit. 

Thus  ri'freshetl  and  looking  about  next  morn- 
ing, there  -onfrunts  the  traveler  a  city,  tlio 
growtli  of  twenty-seven  years,   winch  counts 
2;l4,0(J0  inhabitants,  and  covers  a  territory  of 
foi-ty-two  stpiare  miles.     On  its  easteni  front  it 
extends  along  the  bay,  whose  name  it  bcimi,  is 
bounded  on  tho  north  by  tJm  (lohh-n  Gate,  and 
on  the  west  washed  by  tho  racilic  Ocean  along 
a  beach  exU'iiding  five  or  six  miles.     From  tho 
Golden  Gate  on  the  north,  to  the  city  and 
county-line  on  the  south,  is  a  distance  of 'about 
seven  miles,  and  the  same  from  tho  bav  acrosH 
to  the  ocean.     Tho  surface  is  varied  r)y  hills, 
.several  of  which  have  been  built  upon,  and  from 
whose  summit  commanding  vimvs  nuiv  bo  ob- 
tained.    Telegraph   Hill  looks  down  \)n    tho 
point  where  the  Golden  Clate  leads  into  tlus  ha,j 
and  harbor.     Clay  Street  Hill  is  farther  south 
and  west,  and  may  bo  ascended  by  the  eabhvroa*!. 
This  hill  extends  some  distance  southward,  and 
mak(;s  tho  streets  crossing   Montgomery  to  tho 
west,  steep,  and  .some  almost   inijiracticable  for 
wheeleil  vehicle.-       Along  its  heights  some  (^f  the 
railroad  directc  s  and  others  have  erected,  or  are 
erecting,  jirincely  dwellings.     That  of  Governor 
Stanford  is  perhaps  unsurpassed  in  almost  every 
respect.     Rincon  Hill  is  in  the  southern  part  of 
the  city,  and  slopes  down  \n)  the  water's  edge. 
Until  a  recent  jieriod,  it  was  noted  for  elegant 
private  dwellings  end  grounds;  but   these   aro 
iii>»  found  in  all  directions,  more  clustering,  how- 
ever, around  Clay  Street  Hill,  perhaps,  than  elscs- 
where.     The  growth  of  tho  city  is  rather  toward 
the  west  than  the  south. 

Russian  Hill  is  west  and  north  of  Telegraph 
Hill,  and  looks  down  towar<l  the  Golden  (Jatc  and 
what   is   calleil   Ihe   North  Beach,  a  jxirtion  of 

j  tlie  city  less  in  favor  of  late;  years  than  i'oniierly. 
Smtdting  works,  woolen  factories,  pccteries,  ar- 
tificial  stone-works  and  establishments  of  this 

1  general  character,  havti  clustered  here. 

San    Francisco    is    very   regularly   laid    out. 

,  There  an^  two  systems  of  streets,  Imtween  which 
Market  Street  is  the  dividing  line.  North  of 
Market  the  streets  art^  mostly  71)  feet  .vide,  cross 
at  right  angles  and  run  almost  north  and  south, 
east  and  west,  and  th(,  blocks  are  150  varas  or 
27")  feet  wide,  and  loO  vans  or  41-  1-2  feet  long, 
the  length  being  east  and  west.  Market  Street 
runs  about  north-east  and  .southwest.  South  of 
it  the  streets  for  over  a  mile  from  the  city  front, 
run  parallel  with  it  or  at  right  angles.  At  about  a 
mile  from  the  city  front  thesi' parallel  streets  grad- 
i)c\lly  curve  toward  the  south  till  they  run  almost 
north  and  south.  This  chango  of  course  was  caus- 
ed by  the  low  Mission  Hills  there  ,'ifting  them- 
selves, and  by  the  tendency  of  travel  along  the  nar- 
row ^leuiusuia  toward  the  country'  beyond  it.  The 


%\ 


r  n  / 


-r' 


270 


rmm  ^aciJfi€  F&tmisr. 


ff 


streets  soutti  of  Market  are,  some  of  thorn,  very 
broiul  and  somo  quite  narrow.  This  portion  of 
the  city  was  laiil  out  ori^cinally  witli  very  wide 
streets  and  in  blocks  200  vuras  or  550  loot  wide, 
and  300  varas  or  825  t'et^tlon^i  l>nt  those  provoil 
too  Iarf<e,  and  it  becauio  noctssarv  to  o'l  fc  them  tip 
by  intervening  streets,  wliitii  luvc  no  element  of 


^^'^^ 


SAN   KKANdSCO  MINT. 

regularity  except  parallelism  with  the  others. 
The  streets  are  all  numbered  from  the  city  front, 
or  from  Market  Street,  100  numbers  l>oing  al- 
lowed to  each  block  after  the  firat,  to  which  only 
l)i)  are  assigned,  the  oven  numlM^rs  always  on  the 
right  hand  as  the  numbers  run.  To  lind  a.\i- 
proxim^toly  any  nnml>er  on  the  streets  south 
of  Market,  subtract  400  to  ascertain  the  cross 
street;  e.  f:.,  70(5  Howard  Street  is  near  Third 
and  Howard.  It  is  thus  oa.sy  to  locate  any 
street  and  number.  There  are  a  few  avenues, 
but  witii  the  exception  of  Van  Ness,  which  is 
125  feet  wide,  and  built  up  handsomely,  and 
Montgomery  Avenue,  which  is  laid  out  to  i)ro- 
vide  easy  access  to  tlio  North  Beach  portion 
of  the  city,  tliey  are  usually  short  and  narrow, 
or  in  the  most  newly  laid  out  portion  of  the  city, 
not  yet  liuilt  up. 

'I'lic  ht'iuy  whol.'.sale  business  of  the  city  is 
done  alonjj  ihe  water  front  and.  mostly  north  of 
Market  .Strei-t,  extondinp  hack  three  or  four 
streets  from  the  front  to  where  banks,  brokers, 
insurance  companies  and  office  business  generally 
have  become  establisl'ed,  the  same  territory 
south  of  this  street  be.ug  occujiied  by  lumber 
merchant  I,  planiiiic  mills,  foundries,  and  machine 
shops.  Ketail  business  of  all  kinds  is  done 
along  Kearney,  the  southern  part  of  Montgom- 
ery, the  upper  part  of  Market,  and  along  'I'hird 
ancl  Fonrtli  Streets.  Markets  ar(>  sciattered 
through  the  city.  The  Central  is  near  Kfiarney 
to  the  west  on  Sutt»  i  Street,  and  the  Californian 
between  Kearney  ,;i.d  Montgomery  Streets  ex- 
tending through  from  I'ine  to  (California.  Hoth 
are  worth  visiting,  and  display  <!verything  in  the 
market  liii)!  in  rich  profusion   and   perfect  neat- 


ness and  order.  Pine,  California  and  Mont 
gomery  streets,  at  their  junctions,  are  the  grout 
resort  of  the  crowd  dealing  in  stocks.  All  sorts 
of  men  may  be  seen  there,  between  9  A.  H.  and 
6  r.  M.,  hovering  around  quotations  diaplayed 
crt  various  brokers'  bulletin-boards,  and  talking 
iuines,  for  speculation  centers  in  mining  shares. 
Kearney  Street,  and  Market,  from  Fifth  ti> 
Montgomery,  are  the  favorite  promenatle  ol 
kvdies,  and  »\sj)(>cially  on  Saturday  afternoons, 
the  Hebrew  holiday,  when  a  profusion  of  them, 
richly  dressed  andbejeweled,  may  be  met  there. 

The  theatei's  are  all  m^ar  this  region.  Two  of 
them  are  quit>.;  new.  The  Grand  Opera  House 
boasts  the  finest  (diandelier  on  earth,  and  Bald- 
win's Aca^lemy  of  Music  is  claimed  to  Ixn- .^.sur- 
passed on  this  Continent,  in  heuuty  of  interior 
dectxation  iuid  tinish. 

Sidewalks  throughout  the  city  are  wide  and 
good.  Most  !uv  of  plank,  many  ol"  asphaltum, 
which  is  well  suited  to  the  dim;'!-  the  heat 
rarely  being  sufficient  to  soften  it.  .\  *.-v  are  of 
cut  stone  or  artiliciiil  stone.  The  ia!>:  naterial 
is  fast  coming  into  favor  for  many  uses.  Streets 
are  paved  with  cobbles,  lluss  pavement  and  plank, 
and  off  from  lines  of  heavy  business  teaming,  are 
mucadamiztid.  Wooden  pavements  are  r(>taine(i 
in  many,  but  are  not  approveil.  The  Nicholson 
jmvenieut  cannot  be  long  kept  down.  It  shrinks 
duiin.,'  the  long  dry  summer,  and  with  the  first 
heavy  rains  swells  and  is  thrown  hopelessly  out 
of  place,  (lood  paving  material  is  not  Hbunilant, 
and  the  question  is  yet  unanswered,  what  shall 
be  the  pavement  of  Sa;i  l-'rancisco  in  the  future? 

The  water  supply  comes  chiefly  from  reservoirs 
in  the  Coast  Rangf  Abtuntains  south  of  the  city, 
and  is  eontrollfd  hy  the  Si)ring  N'alley  Water 
Company.  Tlf  rate;?  are  double  and  treMc 
llio.sf  charged  in  New  York  City,  and  an-  due 
monthly  in  advance.     Many  families  )>ay  more 


~..' 


(E. 


BANK  OF  CALIKORNM. 


PUBLIC  UlULDINGS  OF  SAN  VN    ist  O. 

L—City  Patk.    2.— New  OUy  H»U.    3.— Of>neral  View  of  i;lty,  looking  towardK  Uie  Bay. 

*•— Merohantii'  Witch«n<»fl.    ij— ^'t*"*  o'.«  Miirkft  Stre"t 


272 


TME   ^aCIFIC  WOUMmr. 


lot  their  water  than  for  theu'  bread.  It  shouhl 
be  borne  in  mind,  ;iowever,  that  some  familieH 
use  mucli  more  water  for  irrigating  gardens  and 
grasa-plats,  than  for  all  household  purposes. 

The  only  government  buildings  m  San  Fran- 
cisco finished  and  in  use,  and  wortli  visiting, 
ore  the  United  States  Mint,  on  Fifth  Street, 
near  Market;  the  Apjiraiser's  Store,  on  Wash- 
ington and  Sansome,  is  a  1)eautiful  stnicture  of 
brick  and  sandstone.  The  machinery  of  the 
Mint  is  l)elieved  to  be  unapproached  in  perfec- 
tion  and   eiUciency.      Visitors   are    admitted 


and  occupied  by  the  United  States  Sub- 
Treasury. 

A  City  Hall  of  elegant  design  is  in  process  of 
construction,  situated  on  McAllister  Street, 
near  Market.  It  is  occupied,  and  when  com- 
pleted, the  cost  will  be  in  the  millions. 

The  Nevada  Block,  the  Safe  De})osit  Building, 
the  Anglo-Califoniian  and  the  California  Bank, 
the  Mercantile  Library  ond  Mercl.ants'  Ex- 
change, all  combine  pleasing  and  impressive 
features  and  are  thoroughly  built  and  costly 
erections.    The  building,  comer  of  California 


'  ROODLl-m.' 


between  10  and  12  k.  m.  ,  and  hcn>  may  be  found 
a  ^alaoble  collection  of  coins,  including  man  v 
rare  ones.  A  "one  cent"  of  ^ 804  was purchaseil 
for  this  collection  at  a  cost  of  81,51K». 

The  Post-Oflico  on  Witsluugton  Street,  near 
Sansome,  adjoining  the  Appraiser's  Ftore,  and 
the  Custom  House,  in  tlio  same  building, 
although  the  former  has  been  lately  remodeled, 
are  unworthy  the  city  and  the  aation. 

The  old  United  St8,ttiH  Mint  on  Commercial 
Street,  near  Montgomery,  has  Ijecn  rebuilt,  and 
though  not  an  elegant  structure,  is  substantial. 


MiA  'SIoMgomery  stre'its,  occupied  by  "WeDs, 
aad   C'o.'k  Exprei«8,  was  the  nrst  sult- 


crection  in  the  citv.  It  was  importod 
Cuiua,  whcTO  the  ti>nc  was  all  cut  ainl 
flMnd,  ready  tor  its  plotH'. 

Pheluu's  Block,  on  Market  Street,  comer  of 
O'Fairell,  is  one  of  the  nu<ist  imiiosing,  sul)- 
Htaiitial  and  elegant  in  the  city. 

The  average  numlier  of  new  houses  erected 
7U  the  city  since  1870,  has  extveded  1,000,  but 
(luring  each  of  tho  last  three  years  not  hiiJf 
this  average  was  tvachoil. 


^^■ 


I   i 


-'*^73?-'-^??'^- 


,,rf.aB,.i 


^^.i^*^ 


^" 


^1  Q5JU)i.>\  Q^^^J. 


^^.^^mm*'*^-'-^' 


mmtcsimBif 


MraaHaBaaaM 


^.s»,;^f^ 


!l^^i:<'% 


SCENES  IN  THE  UAKBOR  OV  SAN  FRANCISCO. 


274 


WME  ^^aiFic  TonT'msr, 


One  feature  of  8an  Francisco  architocturo  in 
lay -windows.  Fow  privuto  kouHes  are  without 
them,  and  the  hut  built  hotels,  the  Orand,  tho 
Palace,  and  Baldwin's,  have  their  whole  Hurfa(;o 
studded  with  them,  to  the  great  comfort  of  their 
guests,  and  equal  defacement  of  tlicir  external 
appearance.  San  Francisco  is  called  the  Bay 
City.  It  might  well  be  named  the  "bay-win- 
dow city."  The  mildness  of  tho  climate  and 
tho  instinctive  craving  for  siinshino  are  consid- 
erations which  will  al\\'nys  make  bay-windows  a 
desirable  and  a  favoi-itu  feature  here. 

A  stranger  will  ohsen-e  hero  the  great  num- 
ber of  restaiunints  and  furnished  lodgings.  A 
large  proportion  of  the  population  live  in  lodg- 
ings and  go  out  for  their  meals.  The  tendency 
to  a  more  settled  mode  of  life,  however,  in- 
creases, and  a  great  numl>er  of  private  dwell- 
ings have  been  erected  by  individuals  and 
building  associutioas  of  late  years. 

A  gri'at  conHagration  may  overtake  any  city, 
but  this  is  more  secure  than  its  wooden  appear- 
ance indicates.  Owing  to  the  dampness  from 
summer  fogs  and  winter  rains,  and  tlie  liability 
of  injury  by  earthquakes,  wood  is  the  only  de- 
sixubh^  mat(;rial  for  dwellings.  Jfearly  all  used 
is  tho  $fquoia,  or  redwood,  so  abundant  in  the 
Ooast  Range.  It  bums  very  slowly,  compared 
with  Eastern  woods,  and  the  city  has  a  very 
efficient  steam  lire  department. 

Tho  city  c<!met<'rios  axe  yet  west  of  the 
best  nvsidcnccs,  and  reached  by  the  Geary 
Street,  Sutter  Street,  or  C5alifoi'nia"  Street  rail- 
ways, but  agitation  has  alrecdy  commenced 
looking  to  an  fnd  oi  inti'iinents  witliin  city  lim- 
its. Lone  Monntivin,  an  isohite  1  inoiind  witli- 
in till!  Ilomiin  Catlioiio  ("t'niuteiy  i  ml  surmoimted 
by  a  iarp'  cms.s,  lati'ly  Mown  duwi..  lia.s  Icinj;  lieen 
a  noted  landniark  ami  i;i\'<-s  its  iiuin<-  to  tlio  rt- 
gion  idjoining,  wliicli  is  devoted  to  burying 
gromiils. 

Soutii  from  Lone  Aloimtain  lies  the  (ioldeii 
Gate  I'ark,  in  wliicli  (hi!  city  justly  takes  great 
pride,  and  v,  liicli  is  destinwl  to  beconui  one  of 
tlie  most  in'autiful  of  citv  ploiwure  t;rouri'ls  in 
the  United  .Staces.  It  was  a  wiustc  of  s;iinl  only 
five  or  six  years  siiiri',  hut,  by  cari-tvui  jilanling 
of  tho  yellow  lupin,  tin?  sand  is  ^tilxim'd,  and 
by  irrigation.  j,Tass-f)lats  iiave  ht-cn  iicatcd,  and 
a  forest  of  ircfs  lnouijlit.  rapidly  forward.  The 
drives  are  tine,  ami.  on  plciisaut  day.s,  tiioiisands 
of  carriages  resort  lieri!.  Dri.wig  is  a  Californi- 
an's  weak  ]>oint.  ami  inorf  money  is  expended  by 
him  on  livery  and  private  stables  in  fojiortion 
to  his  means  and  other  expenditures,  than  by  his 
brother-citizens  of  the  "  States."  It  is  a  natural 
result  of  plentiful  money,  long  distances  and  ii-w 
railroads.  Racing  is  also  much  in  vogu' .  ami  a 
fine  race-track  is  laid  out,  near  Lone  ■Ituutaiu, 
in  full  view  from  the  Park. 

All  \\w  religiuiLS  denominations  are  well  repre- 
sented, and   tiiere    are   some  line  I  uildiogs  for 


worship,  among  which  the  Synagogue  on  Sut- 
ter, tho  First  Congi'egational  Chureli  on  Post, 
and  St.  Patrick's  Cathedral  on  Mission  Stnet, 
are  most  notable. 

But  tho  most  imposing  church  edifice  in  tho 
city  is  St.  Ignatius  Church  and  College  on  Hayi-s 
Stri'ct  near  Market.  Tho  entire  structure  cos-Vrs 
a  block,  and  the  cost  was  §750,00).  It  is  uiuicr 
the  control  of  the  Jesuits. 

Benevolent  mutual  societies  and  secret  orders 
are  very  numerous.  Particulars  concerning  tin  la 
and  the  churches  may  be  found  in  the  city 
directory.  Tho  free  schools  of  tho  city  arc  a 
just  source  of  pride.  They  are  provided  for 
with  a  morality,  and  cotnlucted  with  a  skill, 
which  make  them  of  incalculablo  value  to  the 
city  in  all  its  interc^sts. 

The  Mercantile  Library,  tho  Mcckanics'  and 
the  Odd  Fellows',  ar»»  largo  and  valuable,  ami 
tho  use  of  them  mav  be  obtained  on  easy  Uiruis. 

A  Free  Library  lias  been  opened  on  Bus!i 
Street,  lietween  Kearaey  and  Fleet  (formerly 
Dupont)  streets,  from  which  books  may  be  taken 
without  charge.  It  is  the  most  popular  library 
in  tho  city,  and  as  its  funds  are  derived  from 
a  general  tax,  its  growth  is  rapid. 

Among  bookstores,  many  are  prominent. 
C.  Beach,  Billings  and  Harbourne  and  J.  Hoff- 
man are  on  Montgomca-y  Street.  On  Market 
Street  are  Bancroit  &  Co. ,  with  a  spacious  ami 
elegant  edifice  in  which  all  departments  of  book- 
making  are  carried  on,  and  voluable  law-books 
published.  Bibles  and  religious  books  aru 
represented  by  tho  American  Tract  Society  ami 
California  Bible  Society  in  the  "Bible  House" 
on  Market  Street,  and  tho  Methodist  Book  Con< 
cern,  in  their  own  edifice  on  the  same  street. 

Straufjers,  properly  introduced,  are  granted 
the  nrivdege  of  the  library  and  reading-room 
<,*,  the  MetcanhU  I.ibtary  on  Bush  Street  nrar 
Mon^gomery,  freo  for  a  month,  and  o<ld  hilars 
can  Ik?  put  in  there  very  pleasantly,  eisppdially  in 
the  reoding-rooni,  ■wliich  is  lightj  cheerful,  uiul 
supplied  with  tho  (H>st  papers,  magazines,  uud 
reviews  of  this  uid  other  lands. 

Ujr<'Hi'»i«#»«.— For  sight-seeing  in  San Fiitn- 
Cisco,  no  plan  will  suit  tho  convenience  of  cv  .ry 
one,  but  the  best  for  a  few  days  is  tho  follow  lug: 

L»'t  the  morning  bo  spent  in  a  -.ido  to  the 
Clitr  House,  where  a  good  break  foic  may  be  ob- 
taiiu'd,  if  not  had  sooner.  Tho  Clifl  House 
Road  is  the  shortt'st  ronto  and  is  unsurpassi  <  I  as 
a  drive.  Tlie  sh(>ll-road  of  New  Orleans  i«  no 
liftter.  But  the  road  tlirough  the  Golden  (!;iti' 
I'ai-k  is  splendidly  iniieadamized,  and  sin  liJ 
l)e  traveled  cither  going  or  returning.  A  di  ive 
shouhl  be  taken  along  the  beach  to  "  Oiinn 
House,"  and  a  return  made  to  tho  city,  tlirouf,'h 
and  over  the  hills.  Coming  into  tho  city  1>t 
this  roiwl,  there  bursts  into  view  one  of  tho  "iuo.s't 
magnificent  sights  on  the  coa.st.  Tho  city,  tlie 
bay,   Oaklanil  and  a  vast  extent  of  mount.u.n, 


WME    e.^QXFW  TOl'^ttlSr. 


275 


jret  ordors 
•ningtlK'ia 
a  the  city 
city  aw  ii 
ovided  for 
th  a  Hkill, 
lue  to  the 

lanics'  and 
luable,  uud 
easy  tmnn-s. 
I  ou  Bus!i 
b  (formerly 
ay  be  takeq 
ulav  library 
jrived  from 

prominent. 
,nd  J.  Hofif- 
On  Market 
3aciou8  and 
ints  of  book- 
e  law-books 
1  books  are 
Society  and 
ible  House" 
it  Book  Con- 
no  8tro(>t. 
are  granted 
L'ading-room 
Street  luar 
odd  hours 
specially  in 
htH>rful,  luul 
,t?aziuo8,  uuJ 

in  San F II in- 
■uc'oof  <viry 
10  follow  iuK: 

vide  to  tho 
G  may  b«  ob- 

Clitt  House 
isnrpassiil  as 
)rli'ana  i«  uo 
Ooldon  (!:vti> 

and  shii  ikl 
njj;.     A  drive 

to  "  O.'cno 
citv,  thrim!4h 

the  city  hv 
o  of  tho  ui'wt 
riio  city,  tlie 
of  mouniitin* 


valley,  loveliness  of  nature  and  art,  aro  sproa<l 
out  below.  Ij  the  Park  can  be  reserved  for  a 
separate  drive,  go  by  the  Cliff  House  Road;  if  uof, 
go  by  the  Park.  The  ClitVHouse  may  bo  reac'luvl, 
also,  by  the  Geary  Street  cable-road  and  omni- 
buses. The  cost  of  a  carriagofor  four  persons 
will  be  91U.0O  for  the  trip — by  omnibus  and 
cars,  about  a  dollar  for  oaefi  person.  Tlio 
trip  should  Iw  made  as  early  as  possible  to  avoid 
the  wind  and  fog. 

The  afternoon  may  lie  spent  at  Woodward's 
Gardens,  making  sure  of  the  feeding  of  sea-lions 
at  1  or  3:30  o'clock.  The  aquarium  is  uui(pi(', 
suggested  by  one  in  Berlin,  and  has  nothing  like 
it  in  America.  Birds,  animals  of  various  kinds, 
fruits,  flowers,  museum,  art  gallery  and  many 
other  objects  of  attraction,  make  theses  garJi'us 
one  of  the  chief  attractions  to  tourists.  Thev 
represent  the  Pacittc  Coast  in  its  anininls  and 
curiosities  better  than  any  other  coUoetiou. 

There  are  always  new  attractions  in  tlie  way 
of  plants  and  animals,  and  on  every  Saturday 
ancf  Siinday  afternoon  a  theatrical  entertain- 
ment. 

Another  morning,  go  up  Clay  Street  Hill  in 
tho  cars,  and  ride  to  the  end  of  the  route,  i-'ino 
views  will  be  seen  of  the  citv  and  bay,  from 
many  points,  and  some  han(\some  residences 
will  be  passed.  Clay  Street  Hill  is  tho  highost 
point  in  the  city  reached  by  cars,  but  the  ride 
on  tlie  Ciilifoniia  Street  cable-road  will  bo  tlio 
most  interesting  because  the  finest  residences 
in  the  city  are  on  tliis  street — among  tliem  being 
Mrs.  Hopkins',  Gov.  Stanford's  and  Mr.  Charles 
Crocker's.  On  de8(!ending,  climb  Telegraiih 
Hill  on  foot,  the  only  way  in  which  it  c"  bo 
(lone,  and  enjoy  the  view  in  all  directions.  After 
lunch  take  tho  Market  Street  cars,  and  ride  to 
Twenty-first  Street.  At  Sixteentli  Street,  on*) 
will  be  near  tho  old  Mission  Church,  an  adobe 
building  dedicated  in  177G.  Having  reached 
Twenty-first  Street  cross  to  Folsom,  and  return 
in  tho  North  Beach  and  Mission  cars  to  tlie  city, 
leaving  theni  where  they  cross  Mai-ket,  or  at  tluj 
eml  of  tlu^ir  route,  corner  of  California  and 
Montgomery,  These  rides  will  take  one  tlirougli 
the  portion  of  the  city  rapidly  gi-owing  and  ex- 
tending toward  the  southwest.  There  will  bo 
time,  after  returning,  to  walk  about  Kearney  and 
Montgomery  strec^ts,  near  Market,  also  uj)  niul 
down  Market,  and  see  tho  finest  retail  stones, 
and  look  at  new  buildings. 

Another  day  one  can  go  to  Oakland  early, 
take  a  cuxriage  at  Broadway  Station  and  ride  to 
Berkley,  Pietlnuint,  and  tlinnigli  Brooklyn  or 
Eiist  Oakland  to  Fruit  Vale,  or  along  Lake  Mer- 
ritt,  up  and  down  streets  and  around  the  city 
at  pleasure.  Fine  houses,  beautiful  grounds, 
good  roa<l8,  flowers,  shade  trees  and  pleasant 
siulits  are  everywhere,  lletuming  to  the  city 
in  season  for  tho  4  p.  m.  boat  up  tho  Sacramento 
Biver,  one  can  take  it  as  far  as  Martinez,  a  two 


and  a  half  or  three  hours'  ride,  and  see  tho 
northern  part  of  San  Francisco  Bay,  San  Pablo 
Bay,  Benicia  and  Snisun  Bay,  linivmg  tho  boat 
at  Martinezand  tin-re  spending  the  night.  Early 
next  morning  a  stagi  will  take  one  to  Moun!; 
Diablo,  and  three  hours  can  be  spent  on  itn 
Huinniit  enjoying  as  line  a  view  as  tliere  is  nnv- 
whero  in  (Jalifornia,  aft(>r  whicli  the  boat  or  train 
can  be  reached  in  season  to  be  in  San  Francisco 
for  tlio  night,  or  one  can  stay  for  tho  night  at  a 
good  Iiotel  near  th(>  Ruminit,  sees  tho  sun  rise, 
and  rt'turn  to  San  Francisco  tho  next  night. 
Tho  faro  for  this  round  trip  is  ten  dollars. 

Alameda  and  Oakhind  can  be  visitt^dtlie  same 
(lav.  or  half  a  day  can  1ki  spent  in  Alameda,  in* 
chilling  ii  salt-water  bath,  the  facilities  for 
wliii'li  are  convenient  and  amph'.  Many  hun- 
dreds liathe  then!  in  a  sinf::le  day. 

To  Alameda  and  Oakland  ono  has  choice  of 
three  routes.  (1)  The  C.  P.  R.  K.  ferry,  (ii) 
The  Cr(>ek  Route  to  tho  foot  of  Broadway,  Oak- 
land (tlie  favorite  route  for  carriages)  owned 
also  bv  tile  C.  P.  R.  R.  Company,  and,  (3)  the 
Soutli  Pacific  C!oast  Narrow  Gauge  Railroad. 

The  time  and  fare  are  the  same  by  all  tlio  roads, 
and  all  start  from  tlie  foot  of  Market  Street. 

Most  of  San  Francisco  has  now  l>een  seen.  It 
would  bo  well  to  ride  through  Van  Ness  Avenue 
and  seo  tho  fine  residences  there;  but  one  will 
begin  to  tiiiiik  of  San  Jose,  Monterey,  Santa 
Cruz,  tlie  (reysers,  etc.  Another  forenoon  can 
be  spent  ])h>a.santly  in  the  city  by  taking  liorse- 
cai*R  through  tho  ^a.st-growing  western  addition 
to  the  city,  to  the  end  of  the  route  at  Laurel  Hill 
(lemetery,  and  walking  about  there  for  an  hour. 
Itetui-uiug  in  season  to  got  off  near  the  United 
Stales  .Mint,  at(U)rn(M-of  oth  and  Market  Streets, 
by  1 1  A.  M.,  one  can  visit  tliat  institution,  which  is 
daily  open  for  visitors  until  noon.  In  tho  after- 
ii(M)n,  at  ;{.'i.'),  one  may  go  to  San  Jose.  The 
routi!  lisads  through  beautiful  villages,  .some  of 
wliicli  hav(!  iieen  si^Iected  for  tho  residence,  most, 
if  not  all  the  year,  of  wealthy  genth^men  of  San 
Fiaiicis(!o.  San  .Jose  will  be  reacln^d  in  season 
fi>r  a  walk  or  ride  about  th;;  city.  The  Auzerais 
lldU.se  is  a  lirst-dass  lioicl.  and  carriages  can  be 
obtained  then!  at  rca-soiiable  r-ites.  The  Court- 
I louse  and  Slate  Normal  School  are  the  chief 
public  buildings.  General  Naglee's  grounds,  which 
are  open  to  visitors,  except  on  Sunday,  are  well 
worth  a  visit. 

If  time  allows,  one  may,  by  taking  a  private 
carriai,'e,  go  to  the  New  Alniaden  Quicksilver 
Mines,  iMijoy  a  tine  ride,  gaze  ujion  a  wide-spread- 
ing view  ii[ioii  the  summit  of  the  hill,  in  whi^h 
till!  miiKis  are  situated,  see  the  whole  under- 
ground p.-ocess  of  mining,  provided  the  superin- 
tendent will  grant  ii  ptMinit  to  enter  them,  which 
is  not  likt^ly,  ai^d  return  to  San  Jose  the  same 
day.  or  if  not  able  to  aftVnd  time  for  this,  can  go 
over  to  Santa  Clara  by  horse-car,  through  the 
shady  Alameda,  three  miles  long,  laid  out  and 


m 


ir. 


TMMS  r.itClFW  TQUBmr. 


277 


1% 

...  •* 


Vi^ 


planted  m  1799,  by  tho  Padres  of  tho  uii-ision, 
visit  the  two  collogon  tlu>ro,  ono  MothoiliHt,  tho 
other  Boinan  Catholic,  and  rutiirii  iu  season  for 
the  morning  train  to  Gilroy,  Wathouville,  eto., 
and  reach  Montor(!y  tho  same  night;  or,  if  tiuio 
will  not  allow  of  doing  this,  ho  may  spend  a 
Uttlo  more  time  at  San  Jose  and  Santa  Clai'a, 
ride  out  to  Alum  Bock  Hprin^j^s,  through  tho 
Shaded  Avenue,  tho  prettiest  tlrivo  iu  tho  State, 
and,  taking  the  afternoon  train,  reach  San  Fran- 
uuico  at  0:35  p.  m. 

Whoever  goes  to  Monterey  and  Santa  Cruz 
will  want  to  stay  there  two  nights  ami  a  day,  at 
least,  and  there  are  so  many  charming  rides  and 
resorts  near  those  watering-places  of  tho  Pacific 
Coast,  that  many  days  can  bo  spent  tliero  very 
agreeably.  The  trip  back  to  the  city  may  bo 
made  by  steamboat,  and  is  a  pleasant  variety  for 
thoso  who  are  not  afraid  of  u  short  exposure  to 
ocean  waves  and  tossing. 

But  every  one?  must  go  to  Montei'cy,  tho 
old  capital,  but  now  tho  Long  Branch  and  Cape 
May  of  tho  Pacific.  For  scenery,  for  climate, 
for  beautiful  drives,  for  hunting,  trout-fishing, 
sea-fishing,  for  bathing,  for  hotel  comforts — in 
short,  to  BOO  and  enjoy  ono  of  tho  grcate.st 
wonders  in  CaliforuLi,  go  to  tho  "  Hotel  Del 
Monte  "  and  Monterey,  One  trip  may  combine 
Monterey  and  Santa  Cruz,  for  they  aro  on  op- 
posite sides  of  tho  samo  bav. 

Tho  next  trip  will  naturally  bo  to  tho  Geysers 
and  the  Petrified  Forest — this  must  include 
either  Napa  and  Kussian  River  Valleys,  or  botli. 
Wliero  only  one  valley  is  to  bo  seen,  the  Napa  is 
far  preferable,  both  on  account  of  tho  higlier 
state  of  cultivation  and  natural  scenery.  Tlu> 
road  from  Calistoga  to  the  Qeysers  overlooks 
the  Russian  River  Valley,  but  tho  Nap;i  Valley 
cau  ue  seen  only  by  going  via  Calistoga. 

Tho  Petrified  Forest  is  on  this  route,  about 
two  miles  from  t'.io  <lirect  road,  and  at  C!alistogii 
th  .'ro  are  the  Warm  Si)i'ings,  and  near  St.  Helen'- 
theWliite  Sulphur  Springs,  whidi,  before  tho 
opening  of  tho  Hot(>l  Del  Monto  at  Monterey, 
vrere  the  most  delightful  and  fashionable  resort 
iu  California. 

Ou  each  route  there  aro  two  trains  a  day  dur- 
ing tho  6umm(>r  sejvson,  but  tho  nuu'ning  train 
via  the  Russian  River  Valley  and  Cloverdalo  is 
far  preferablo  to  the  afternoon  train,  for  tlu> 
former  goesf/W  San  Rafael,  and  is  almost  wholly 
by  rail.  Tho  latter  includes  thirty-tivo  miles  by 
steamer.  Tho  route  via  San  Rafael  and  Clover- 
tlide  is  about  two  and  a  half  hours  shorter  than 
the  route  ?'/.*  Napa. 

Two  days  and  ono  niglit  aro  sufHcient  to  visit 
the  Geysers  and  Petrified  trees,  without  stop- 
ping at  San  Rafael  or  tho  Wliito  Suli>hur 
Springs ,  Returning  from  the  Geysers  to  Clover- 
dide,  tho  stages  of  tho  celebrated  driver  "Foss" 
make  a  detour  to  the  Petrified  Trees,  when 
tickets  include  this  interesting  spot.      The  faro 


to  tho  Geysers  and  return  is  8  b*).  00.  To  go  one 
and  return  the  other  routo  will  cost  9U>.(M). 

As  tho  time  of  tourists  is  variously  limited,  i| 
is  well  to  say  that  tho  time  retiuir'^d  for  all  tlio 
trips  abovo  described  is  eleven  d.iys,  allowing 
two  days  for  Monterey  and  Santa  Cruz.  Not 
all  persons  have  so  much  time  to  spend.  By 
omitting  the  visit  to  Santa  Cruz  and  Wliifa 
Sulphur  Springs,  ono  may  save  two  days,  and 
by  omitting,  also,  the  trip  to  Mt.  Diablo,  tho 
western  a(lditi(m  to  tho  city,  and  the  United 
States  Mint,  ono  may  save  three  days  more,  sturt- 
ing  for  the  ( Icysers,  after  spending  three  days  in 
tho  city  and  seeing  the ClitV House,  Golden  Gate 
Park,  VV'ooil  ward's  Gtvrdens,  climbing  Telegraph 
Hill  and  Clay  Stret^t  Hill,  seeing  tho  Missioa 
and  Routhwest<'rn  part  of  the  city,  and  passing 
most  of  a  day  in  Oaklaml.  ShoiUd  ono  do  this, 
it  would  bo  well  to  fill  out  tho  day  iM^gua  ia 
Oakland,  by  going  through  Van  N»'ss  Avenue, 
whieli  is,  and  long  will  be,  tho  finest  street  for 
private  r«!sidences  in  ihe  city.  Two  days  mora 
will  enable  one  to  visit  the  Geysers,  and  thus,  in 
seven  days,  all  thatiii  most  notable  in  and  about 
San  Franciseo,  will  have  b(!en  seen. 

Tourists  who  liave  time  enougii  for  it  will  find 
a  trip  to  IVscadero,  very  pli'asant.  The  route  is 
by  stage  from  San  Miiteo  or  Kedwmxl  City,  on 
the  Soutlicrn  Pacific  Railroad,  across  the  Contra 
Costa  Range,  a  ride  very  well  paying  of  itself 
for  the  whole  cost  of  tlie  trip.  I'escadero  is  in  a 
narrow  valley,  about  three  miles  from  tho 
famous  l'elibl(!  Reach,  al)(»ut  UK)  vanis  U)ng, 
wiiich  gives  it  its  chief  attraction.  Niost  liome- 
liko  quarters  and  deliglitful  cooking  are  found 
at  Swanton's.  and  one  will  be  taken  to  the  beach 
and  brought  back  from  it  at  liours  of  his  own 
choosing.  At  tiiis  beudi  onci  will  linger  and 
linger,  picking  up  finely-polished  pebbles,  many 
of  which  are  fit  to  be  set  as  jcnvels.  I'escadero 
may  Ite  reached  also  by  stage  from  Santa  Cruz, 
and  the  ride  along  the  coast  is  wild,  int^-rt'sting, 
uniiiue  and  full  uf  interest.  The  tinu!  re(|uired 
is  a  day,  wlii'ther  coming  from  Sim  Fnuu'i.sco  or 
Santa  fcruz.  and  tho  same  to  return,  and  no  one 
will  sjM'nd  less  than  a  day  there,  so  that  to  see 
I'escadero  means  three  days,  and  tiiere  are  few 
more  enjoyable  ways  t<)  spend  ho  miu'h  time. 

Vlimah'. — The'  climate  of  San  Fnincisco  is 
peculiar,  and  can  not  be  described  in  a  few 
words.  It  is  Cipiable  on  the  whole,  there  being 
no  great  range  of  temperature,  and  the  ilifferenco 
between  tliat  of  winter  and  summer  being  small. 
Rain  tails  only  in  the  winter  half  of  tlie  year, 
and  does  not  much  exceed  one-half  of  the  amount 
in  tho  same  latitude  on  the  Atlantic  shore,  and 
the  number  of  rainy  days  is  very  small,  since  it 
is  apt  to  rain  hard  if  it  rains  at  all.  The  atmos- 
I>here  in  winter  is  ([uite  moist,  and  though  it  is 
seemingly  dry  in  summer,  during  the  long  aXy 
sence  of 'rain,  pianos  and  furniture,  and  wood- 
work generally  do  not  shrink  as  in  many  places. 


t 


278 


rmm  ^siciric  rofmisr. 


wing,  doubtleM,  to  the  prevailing  cool  winds 
■oni  the  ocean.  It  is  rarely  cola  enough  for 
irost ;  plumber's  work  needs  no  protection,  and 
hot  days  are  equally  rare,  occurring  only  wlinn 
the  summer  ocean  winds  yield  for  two,  or  at  most 
tlu-ee  days,  to  winds  from  over  parched  and  heated 
plains  to  the  north.  The  air  is  rarely  clear  so  as 
to  reveal  distinctly  the  outlines  of  hill  and  shore 
across  the  bay,  a  misty  haze  like  that  of  eastern 
Indian  summer,  usually  prevailing.  After  rains, 
and  notably  after  frosts,  and  during  the  i)reva- 
lence  of  winds  from  the  north  this  sometimes 
vanishes,  and  a  crystal  clearness  of  atmosphere 
succeeds,  in  which  'Mount  Diablo  and  the  hills  of 
Contra  Costa  and  Alameda  standout  mellow  and 
clear  as  though  just  at  hand.  At  such  times, 
which  are  not  frequent,  and  at  others,  more  often, 
•when  it  is  snn.^hiny  and  the  air  is  calm,  and 
the  haze  thin,  there  "is  a  spring  and  vit.ility  and 
exhilaration  in  the  air,  and  beauty  in  all  out- 
door nature  not  often  surpassed.  Somctliing  of 
this  is  realized  in  the  early  part  of  most  summer 
days,  if  fog  does  not  hang  over  the  city.  As  the 
day  advances,  the  wind  from  the  ocean  rises  and 

Euurs  in  mightily,  cold  and  fierce— a  bano  and  a 
lessing  at  once  ;  a  bane  because  it  destroys  all 
enjoyinunt  ot  out-door  existence,  but  a  blessing 
because  bearing  away  noxious  exhalations,  and 
securing  health  even'  to  the  most  crowded  and 
neglected  quarters  and  thoroughfares. 

There  are  few  days  in  San  Francisco  v.hen  it 
is  safe  to  dispense  with  outer  wrappings,  and 
when  a  fire  is  not  needed  morniiig  and  evening, 
both  for  health  and  comfort,  and  tewer  yet  when 
a  room  with  the  sun  shining  into  it  is  not  amply 
warm  enough  while  it  shines.  Sunshine  is 
therefore  earnestly  coveted,  and  many  are  the 
regrets  of  those  who  do  not  enjoy  it.  It  is  rare 
for  persona  to  seek  the  shady  side  of  the  street, 
instinct  suggests  the  contrary.  Rooms  are  ad- 
vertised as  sunny,  and  many  are  so  described 
which  are  sunny  only  a  small  part  of  the  day. 
But  whet'  ;r  the  sun  siiines  or  not,  it  is  never 
safe  to  siu  by  open  windows  or  on  door-steps 
without  shawls,  hats,  or  overcoats.  Strangers  do 
it  sometimes,  but  never  do  it  v<(ry  long.  San 
Francisco  is  not  the  place  for  out-door  pleasur- 
ing. Bright  and  sunshiny  and  beautiful  as  it 
often  is  without  doors,  one  prefers  to  look  upon 
it  from  within,  and  if  dticiding  to  go  out  must 
wrap  up  almost  as  for  a  winter  ride  or  walk  in 
the  older  States, 

San  Francisco  has  few  pleasure  resorts.  Seal 
Rocks,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Golden  Gate,  attract 
many  to  ride  to  the  Cliff  House,  and  gaze  at  sea- 
lions  gamboling  and  snorting  and  basking  on  its 
sides.  It  is  a  beautiful  ride  thence  south  on  the 
beach  a  couple  of  miles  to  the  Ocean  House,  and 
thence    back   to    the    city    by    Lake    Merced. 


Goldon  Oato  Park  is,  however,  the  chief  resort 
for  pleasure.  It  ia  new,  and  its  charms  ami 
1)eaut7  cannot  l)e  expected  to  equal  those  of 
Central  Park,  in  New  York  City,  but  much  has 
been  done  already,  and  the  promise  for  time  to 
come  is  ample,  ^fhe  reclamation  of  sand  wastes 
and  dunes  by  planting  yellow  lupin  and  tluir 
conversion  into  beautiful  grass-plots  is  a  notalil(t 
feature  of  the  success  already  attained,  wliidi 
elicits  the  admiration  of  all  who  contrast  what 
they  see  in  the  park  with  the  proof  of  what  it 
was  once,  shown  in  the  still  shifting  sands 
around  it.  The  park  embraces  about  1,100  acres, 
and  when  the  thousands  and  ten  thousands  of 
trees  planted  in  it  have  gained  their  growth, 
which  they  are  doing  almost  too  fast  for  beliif, 
and  other  improvements  in  progress  are  carriril 
out,  it  will  rank  among  the  most  attractive  and 
admired  city  parks  on  the  ContintMit.  It  !,■< 
reached  by  several  streets  leading  west  from  Mar- 
ket, but  luoHt  of  the  many  drivers  and  riders 
who  resort  there  find  their  way  either  by  Turk, 
Goldon  C*ate  Avenue  (formerly  Tyler  Street)— 
Goldon  Gate  Avenue  is  the  great  thoroughfare 
— or  M(!AliiBter  Street 

A  favorite  resort  is  also  Woodward's  Gardens. 
They  are  private  jn-operty,  and  a  quarter  of  a  <loliar 
is  cliargnd  for  entrance.  It  is  a  pleasant  plane 
to  pass  a  half  day  visiting  the  collection  of 
various  living  animals  and  birds,  among  which 
are  camels  born  in  the  garden,  and  sea-lions 
caught  in  the  Pacific,  and  paid  for  at  the  rate 
of  seventy-five  cents  a  jiound.  One  Lig  fellow,  a 
captive  for  seven  years,  has  grown  to  weigh  over 
a  ton.  Sea-lions  can  be  better  studied  at  Wood- 
ward's than  at  Seal  llock,  especially  at  the  houi- 
they  are  fed,  when  they  do  some  fearful  leapiii); 
and  splashing.  There  are  fine  collections  al.so  ol 
stuffed  birds,  and  other  curiosities,  hot-houses 
with  tropical  plants,  aquaria  not  surpassed  nn 
this  Continent,  a  skating  rink,  and  many  other 
attr.active  teatures.  The  grounds  are  spacious 
and  well  sheltered,  and  a  pleasanter  spot  cannot 
b(!  found  within  the  city  limits  for  whiling  away 
a  few  hours  The  city  line  of  horse-cars  leads 
to  the  gardes*  irom  Market  Street  Ferry  to 
Alission  Stieet,  on  whicli  the  gardens  front. 
They  cover  over  six  acres,  and  almost  eveiy 
taste  can  be  suited  somewhere  in  them.  Tiie 
active  and  jolly  can  resort  to  the  play-gronnd 
and  gymnasium,  and  those  who  like  quiet,  will 
find  sliady  nooks  and  walks ;  those  fond  of  sigiits 
and  curiosities  can  spend  hours  in  the  various 
cabinets,  and  those  who  like  to  study  mankind, 
can  gaze  on  the  groups  standing  around,  and 
streaming  p.i.ssers-by.  Through  the  whole  sea- 
son, from  i*.pril  to  I^ovember,  it  is  always  genial 
and  sunny,  and  enjoyable  there. 


TMB  ^siCiFia  FOi^ISr. 


279 


I  rcsoit 
rms  and 

bllOHO   (if 

lucli  1ms 

tinx!  ti) 
(1  wasti's 
11(1  tlii-ir 
i  iiotiihli! 
1,  wliiili 
1st   wliat 

wliat  it 
ff  sands 
.00  acres, 
isaiids  of 

growth, 
or  lit'lii'f, 
(i  carrii'(l 
,ctive  and 
t.  It  U 
rom  Miir- 
11(1  rid(!rs 

by  Turk, 

Street)— 
rougkfare 

i  Gardens, 
•of  a  dollar 
^saiit  place 
llectioii  of 
■)Ufr  which 
I  HPa-lions 
,t  the  rate 
e  fellow,  a 
peigh  ovtn- 

at  Wood- 
it  the  hour 
tul  leajiinf,' 
on?  al.so  o( 
hnt-honscs 
rpasscd  on 
naiiy  otlicr 
•e  spacious 
pot  cannot 
liliiig  away 
e-cars  leads 
Ferry  to 
lens    front. 
most  ev('i7 
;hem.    The 
;)lay-gronnd 

quiet,  will 
lid  of  sights 

the  various 

y  mankind, 
round,   and 

whole  .'sea- 
ways genial 


THE 


Cltituesje  in 


These  queer  looking  people,  with  loose  gar- 
ments, umbrella  hats,  or  skull-caps,  rags  for 
hose,  pantaloons  made  ankle  tight  by  tapes ; 
wooden  shoes,  copnery  skin,  high  cheek-bones, 
almond  eyes,  half-shaved  heads,  jet  black  hair, 
and  dangling  pig-iails,  are  the  hatad  of  the 
Paddy,  the  target  of  hoodlums ;  the  field  of  the 
missionary,  the  bomb  for  the  politician  to  ex- 
plode, and  the  sinew  for  capital.  They  are 
called  the  essence  of  all  that  is  vicious,  villain- 
ous, and  certainly  are  opinionated.  They  are 
everywhere ;  even  the  boys  say  they  cannot  throw 
stones  without  hitting  them,  but  they  are  to  be 
best  seen  in  the  CUiinese  quarters  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, from  Pacific  Street,  the  "  Barbary  Coast," 
to  Sacramento  Street,  and  from  Kearney  to 
Stockton,  five  squares  by  two,  in  the  heart  of 
the  oldest  part  ot  the  city. 

Although  in  every  block,  and  near  every  door, 
their  special  quarter  is  almost  like  a  city  of  the 
"Mid(He  Flowery  Kingdom"  set  right  down  in 
our  midst.  Streets  and  alleys,  and  labyrintliian 
windings,  not  only  such  as  we  tread,  are  theirs; 
but,they  live  and  travel  under  ground  and  over 
roofs,  up  and  down,  until  the  cunning  policeman 
is  outwitted  in  following  them;  and  all  their 
strPLt.  -nd.  by-ways  are  swarming  with  human 
or  nlmtn  1  inhabitants,  but  little  less  numerous 
tha  the  )  .  ;s  and  the  vermin.  Cellars  and  lofts 
seem  'nunly  good  for  either  lodgings,  factories, 
shoys.  ;*!■  laundries,  and  apartments  of  ordinary 
height  are  cut  in  two  with  a  ladder  to  ascend  to 
thd  loft,  reminding  us  of  the  log-cabin  days  in 
the  back-woods,  or  the  wild  frontier. 

Buildings  are  made  more  capacious  by  rude 
balconies  from  the  second  stories,  that  almost 
touch  over  tiie  narrow  passages  beneath.  The 
Globe  Hotel,  corner  of  Jackson  and  Diipont 
Streets,  three  stories  high,  with  about  60  rooms, 
is  inhabited  by  about  1,500  Celestials,  and  the 
heads  of  the  Chinamen  in  their  bunks,  must 


KJttljCtSC^. 


look  like  the  cells  of  a  honey-comb.  Steaniship 
hold,  cemeteiy  vault,  Iloinan  catacoinb,  or 
Egyptian  pyramid  could  hardly  be  better 
packed. 

Health. — The  narrow  streets  are  wide  enough 
for  hucksters,  wood-piles,  cliicken-coops,  tempo- 
rary pig-pens,  baskets  and  poles,  and  all  sorts  of 
foul  rubbish,  and  just  wide  enough  for  our 
noses.  These  streets  may  center  in  open  courts 
that  reek  in  filth,  or  lead  one  from  treading 
where  death-dealing  vawrs  ooze  tlirough  the 
loose  boards  on  which  no  walks,  to  dwellings, 
where  the  floors  are  easily  lifted  to  secure  sewer 
accommodations  in  pools  or  vats  beneath ;  but 
with  all  this,  the  Chinamen  seem  to  thrive  best, 
and  huddle  closest  where  it  is  dark(;st  and  most 
dismal,  and  where  sunlight  never  enters. 
Leprosy  is  said  to  exist,  but  if  competent  medi- 
cal authorities  have  so  pronounced  any  of  their 
loathsome  diseases,  it  is  not  generally  known, 
or  else  the  leprosy  is  not  of  a  contagious 
character. 

There  are  loathsome  diseases  among  them,  and 
especially  among  the  prostitutes,  by  which  even 
small  Iwys  are  infected,  but  no  wide-spread 
pestilence  lias  ever  been  known  among  them, 
and  the  death-rate  is  not  excessive. 

Their  funeral  customs  and  places  of  burial 
make  the  concealment  of  the  d(;ad  far  more  un- 
likely than  when  some  victim  is  chopped  to  pieces 
'and  stowed  awayn  la  practices  not  unknown  to 
American  criminals. 

Inoculation  in  children  is  almost  universa.., 
and  small-pox  has  j.oi  prevailed  alarmingly  in 
the  Chinese  quarter  of  the  city. 

rernotial  /fo6f««.— Notwithstanding  their 
foul  habitations,  they  seem  to  come  out  of 
their  filth  as  the  eel  from  his  skin,  with  a  per- 
sonal cleanliness  that  is  marvelous,  and  to  most 
incredible.  So  far  as  the  secret  of  their  anoma- 
lous health  and  personal  cleanliness  can  be  de- 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


4 


'*' «?. 


-^ 


(A 


!     -. 


if 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


1.8 


U    11,6 


f 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


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tv 


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"ii" 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  672-4503 


it. 


''/%'  ij>. 


a 


t    ^ 


«^     O^ 


280 


tected,  it  is  in  their  practice  of  daily  ablution. 
They  bathe  as  if  it  were  a  sacred  duty,  and  in 
Washington  Territory  will  cut  through  the 
winter  ice  to  find  the  necessary  water,  and  the 
tooth-brush  is  a  daily  companion. 

The  cue  is  regarded  with  patriotic  pride.  It 
and  the  tonsure  were  introduced  into  China  in 
1044,  as  a  mark  of  acceptance  of,  and  subjection 
to  the  Tartar 
rule,  and  en- 
forced by  the 
favor  of  the 
courts,  to  all 
litigants  w  li  o 
wore  the  cue, 
and  by  reject- 
ing in  the  lit- 
erary examina- 
tions all  candi- 
dates who  ap- 
peared without 
it.  and  even  by 
death  in  some 
cases,  mitil  at 
length  the 
mark  of  deris- 
ion became 
the  badge  of 
honor,  and  now 
every  Celestial 
carries  thia  flag 
of  his  country, 
r.o  less  dear 
than  his  own 
liead. 

It  is  formed 
by  separating 
the  unshaven 
hair  on  the 
crown  of  the 
liead,  three  or 
four  inches  in 
diivmeter,  into 
three  strands 
and  braiding 
with  it  coarse 
silk  or  false 
hair,  until  in 
cases  of  tiieam- 
b  1 1  i  o  u  s  it 
reaches  to  with- 
in three  inclies  "^'''"^  "^  ^''^»^'  ^"''""^^^ 
of  the  ground.  Sometimes  it  is  worn  for  conven- 
ience in  a  coil  around  the  head  or  the  neck,  but 
it  is  a  mark  of  disrespect  to  have  it  coiled  thus 
in  the  presence  of  superiors — more  insulting  ^lan 
to  enter  a  Fifth  Avenue  cathedral  or  orthodox 
church  and  sit  with  the  hat  on  the  head. 

The  head  of  those  who  can  afford  it,  is  shaved 
once  in  ten  or  fifteen  days.  The  razor  is  triangu- 
lar in  shape,  about  two  inches  long,  and  an  inch 
wide  at  one  end,  hollow  ground  and  weighing 


about  two  ounces.  The  metal  is  of  such  excellent 
quality  that  the  razors  are  often  bought  by 
Americans  for  the  steel  only. 

Tonsorial  operations  are  performed  with  great 
skill,  and  there  are  delicate  instruments  for  swab- 
bing the  ears,  pulling  hairs  out  of  the  nostrils, 
and  cleaning  the  eyelids  on  both  under  and  iippcr 
sides.    The  sign  of  the  barber-shop,  is  a  loui- 

legged  frame — 
the  legs  painted 
green,  and  the 
knobs  on  top 
painted  red. 

As  the  cue  is 
the  badge  of 
servitude  tc  th(> 
present  dynasty 
of  China,  no 
one  can  beconi(; 
an  American 
citizen,  or  "  de- 
clare his  inten- 
tions" and  re- 
tain this,  for  it 
proclaims  that 
m  political  matr 
ters,  he  is  not 
his  own  master, 
but  the  slave  ot 
the  Emperor, 
and  lience  ajv 
pears  the  al>- 
surdity  of  those 
who  deny  the 
sincerity  ot 
the  profession 
of  the  Chris- 
tian religion, 
made  by  some 
Chinamen  who 
retain  their 
cue.  An  Kn- 
glish  subject 
who  unites  with 
an  American 
church,  is  not 
recpiired  or  ex- 
pected for  this 
reason,  to  re- 
nounce his  al- 
legiance to  the 
Que^n. 

CMtiene  QunrtevH. — The  most  interesting 
objects  to  be  seen  in  the  Chinese  quarters  are 
stores,  shops,  restaurants  and  temples,  or  Joss 
houses,  and  opium  smoking  places,  although 
some  of  the  tourists  visit  viler  abodes,  out  of 
curiosity. 

A  visit  to  the  Chinese  quarters  may  be  made 
in  daylight  or  by  night,  and  with  or  without  a 
policeman.  The  writer  has  frequently  passed 
through  the  alleys  and  streets  of  Chinatown  with 


QUARTERS,  SAN  FBAKOISCO. 


281 


1  exceiient 
ought  by 

with  great 

for  swali- 
e  nostrils, 
and  uppir 
is  a  loiir- 
id  frame — 
igs  painted 
1,  and  the 
IS  on  top 
ted  red. 
s  the  cue  is 

badge  of 
tude  tc  till' 
;nt  dynasty 
China,  no 
3an  becoHK! 

American 
eu,  or  "  dc- 

his  inten- 
,"  and  re- 

this,  for  it 
laims  that 
)litical  matr 

lie  is  not 

wn  master, 

the  slave  of 

Emperor, 

hence  ap 
rs  the  al>- 
iityof  thost^ 
)  deny  the 
cerity  oi 
!  profession 
the  Chris- 
n  religion, 
le  by  sonif 
nameu  who 
,ain  their 
».  An  Kn- 
h  subject 
3  unite.',  with 
American 
rch,  is  not 
uired  or  ex- 
ted  for  this 
son,  to  re- 
mce  his  al- 
iance  to  the 
e>.n. 

interesting 
quarters  arc 
>les,  or  Joss 
»s,  although 
odes,  out  of 

lay  be  made 
r  without  M 
intly  passed 
latown  with 


out  the  protection  of  policemen,  and  never  ex- 
perienced the  least  indignity.  The  only  occasion 
when  he  failed  to  receive  the  strictest  com  tesy 
and  deference  was  vi^hen  intruding  upon  a 
family  "  at  rice" — for  white  visitors  are  never 
welcomed  then — and  introducing  a  largo  com- 
pany of  friends,  one  of  whom  said  he  came 
from  New  York,  when  one  of  the  Chinamen 
grinned  from  ear  to  ear,  exclaiming,  "You 
foole  me — he  Irishman,  fie  Irishman." 

Those  desiring  the  protection  of  a  policeman 
can  secure  the  sei'vices  of  one  by  applying  to 
the  Chief  of  Police  in  the  Ci^^y  Hall.  Compen- 
sation should  be  made  privately.  Two  dollars 
and  a  half  is  a  sufficient  fee,  but  visitors  should 
pay  their  own  admittance  to  the  Chinese  theater. 

The  Number.— It  is  hai-d  to  estimate  the 
birds  of  a  large  flock  that  come  and  go  with 
spring  and  fall,  and  the  Chinese  are  always 
traveling  to  and  from  the  Celestial  Empire,  and 
no  censusrtaker  or  poll-tax-gatherer  has  ever 
been  guilty  of  the  sin  of  numbering  them. 
"Whoever  can  be  caught  is  squeezed  for  taxes, 
and  no  matt^^r  whether  he  has  paid  or  not,  he 
can  ijay  f  ir  some  one  that  can  not  bo  caught. 
The  number  of  the  people,  as  reported  by  the 
census  of  1881,  is  about  97,000.  These,  with 
Japanese,  East  Indians  and  others,  classed  as 
"  Asiatics,"  make  a  total  of  105,678  as  given  in 
the  census.  Of  the  Chinese  in  America,  about 
75,000  are  in  California,  and  of  these,  about 
20,000  in  the  City  of  8an  Francisco.  Of  the 
whole  number  in  America,  about  10,000  are 
women,  children  and  merchants. 

Emigration  is  carried  on  through  Hong  Kong, 
a  British  port,  the  Chinese  from  the  province  of 
Kwantung  going  via  this  port. 

At  the  end  of  the  year  1851,  not  4,000  had 
coine  to  America.  But  the  reports  of  the  open 
country,  and  plenty  of  gold,  brought  18,000  in 
185L',  and  alarmed  the  Californiaus,  so  that  the 
next  year  only  4,000  came,  and  the  average  of 
arrivals  since,  has  not  been  5,000  a  year.  We 
have  often  been  told  of  "passage  engaged 
ahead  for  thousands,"  that  "  enough  are  coming 
the  present  year  to  oven  uii  us,"  but  the  prophe- 
cies are  somewhat  akin  to  those  of  the  world's 
destruction. 

The  books  of  the  Custom  House,  show  the  ar- 
rivals since  1808  to  have  been  as  follows,  "out  of 
departures  and  deaths,  there  is  no  reliable  record. 

YEAR. 

1808, 
18ti!», 
1870, 
1871, 
1872, 

i87;i, 

YEAR. 

1874, 

1875, 
January,  1876, 
Kebniary,  1876, 
Marcb,      1876, 


MALE. 

FEMALE. 

TOTAL. 

10,024 

L'.ne 

10,'J80 

11,710 

l,.'VIO 

i;<.'j.v2 

9.606 

diS 

ll    .18 

4.w;4 

100 

4.001 

8,812 

565 

9..177 

16,605 

516 

i7,ii;i 

MALE. 

FEMALE. 

TOTA  L. 

ll,74,'< 

;«)7 

12,950 

18,0!tO 

8o8 

18,448 

1.170 

7 

1.177 

1,107 

0 

1,197 

1.872 

0 

1,872 

9,'i,7.');» 


4,2!)C 


ic:,(M9 


T/te  Six  ConiiMHies. — These  are  the  "Ming 
Yung,"  "Hop  Wo,"  "Kong  Chow,"  "Yung 
Wo, "  "  Sam  Yak, "  and  Yen  Wo. "  The  largest 
of  these  is  the  "Ming  Yung."  Perhaps  adl 
but  about  1,000  belong  to  one  or  the  other  of 
these  companies. 

As  to  the  object  and  power  of  these  companies 
there  is  a  dilference  of  opinion.  Some  assert 
they  are  about  absolute  for  all  purposes  of 
government,  importing  men  and  women,  making 
and  enforcing  contracts  for  labor  and  passage, 
settling  disputes,  and  by  means  of  hired  assas- 
sins killing  at  their  pleasure,  any  one  for  whom 
they  choose  to  offer  a  reward. 

This  and  more — everything  that  can  be  said 
against  them  is  believed  by  more  than  pveiy 
Irishman,  and  on  the  other  hand,  those  who  nave 
lived  in  China,  in  the  service  of  the  American  or 
English  government,  and  missionaries  who  speak 
and  read  the  Chinese  language,  deny  to  the  com- 
panies any  such  extent  of  power  or  purpose,  and 
the  Chinamen  universally  deny  it. 

It  is  certain  that  these  organizations  are  pro- 
tecdve,  that  they  are  practically  emigration  and 
aid  societies,  that  they  care  lor  the  sick,  send 
some  of  the  destitute  back  to  China,  settle  dis- 
putes by  arbitration,  and  possess  such  power  that 
the  officials  of  the  companies  are  sometimes 
"  bound  over  "  for  the  inembers  to  keep  the  peace, 
and  by  an  arrangement  with  the  Pacific  Mail 
Steamship  Conii)any,  prevent  the  return  of 
any  one  to  China  who  has  not  paid  his  debts,  and 
gather  up  and  retcun  to  China  the  bones  of  all 
the  dead  belonging  to  the  respective  companies. 
'Ihey  have  no  criminal  power,  and  if  American 
olficlals  did  not  co-operate  with  and  encourago 
the  companies  they  would  have  much  less  iiN 
fluence  and  importance.  Previous  to  coming, 
Chinamen  have  often  no  knowledge  of  tho  exist 
ence  of  the  companies.  A  family  may  accumu- 
late means  to  send  one  of  their  number,  not  from 
Cork,  but  Hong  Kong,  and  on  his  arrival  he  usu- 
ally allies  hiin.elf  to  one  of  the  companies  for 
mutual  a.ssistance  and  protection,  and  the  six 
companies  may  also  ad, ertise  in  China  to  induce 
some  to  emigrate. 

Nearly  all  Chinamen  in  America  are  from  the 
province  of  Kwantung.  of  which  Canton  is  the 
principal  city,  and  hence  only  the  Cantonese 
dialect  is  spoken  here. 

The  part  of  the  province  from  which  they  come 
usually  determines  what  company  each  will  join. 
No  fee  is  exacted  for  membership  or  initiation. 

A  washing  guild,  or  organization  that  fixeg 
rates  for  washing,  etc.,  has  often  been  confound- 
ed with  the  Six  Companies.  It  is  a  trades- 
union,  independent  of  the  companies.  Tades- 
unions  are  as  common  in  China  as  in  America, 
and  it  is  not  surjirising  therefore  that  they  fix 
liere  the  prices  of  washing,  and  allow  no  new 
wash-house  within  certain  limits  of  another,  and 
keep  wages  high   enough   to  secure  the  most 


hH: 


a, 
-I. ' 


A 


90  0! 


FMB  ^s§CtFW  FOmSISF. 


money,  and  low  enough  to  sicken  the  Irishman 
that  competes  with  tliein. 

The  tt'o»it.n. — These  are  all  of  the  lowest 
order,  exceptinsr  perhaps  150  cut  of  the  thou- 
sands here.  The  manner  of  dealing  with  them 
i  like  that  with  Ah  Hoe,  as  follows : 

"  An  agreement  to  assist  the  woman  Ah  Hoe, 
l>ecause  coming  from  China  to  San  Francisco 
she  became  indebted  to  her  mistress  for  passage. 
All  Hoe  heraelf  asks  Mr.  Yee  Kwan  to  advance 
for  her  ^630,  for  which  Ah  Hoe  distinctly  agrees 
to  give  her  body  to  Mr.  Yee  for  service  as  a  pros- 
titute for  a  term  of  four  years.  There  shall  be 
uo  interest  on  the  money.  Ah  Hoe  shall  receive 
no  wages.  At  the  expn-ation  of  four  years  Ah 
Hoe  shall  be  her  own  master.  Mr.  Yee  Kwan 
shall  not  hinder  or  trouble  her.  If  Ah  Hoe  runs 
away  before  her  time  is  out,  her  mistress  shall 
find  her  and  return  her,  and  whatever  .expense  is 
incurred  in  finding  her  Ah  Hoe  shall  pay.  On 
this  day  of  the  agreement  Ah  Hoe  has  received 
with  her  own  hands  $630.  If  Ah  Hoe  sliail  be 
sick  at  any  time  for  more  than  ten  days  she 
shall  make  up  by  an  extra  month  of  service  for 
every  ten  days  of  sickness.  Now  this  agreement 
has  proof.  This  paper  received  by  Ah  Hoe  is 
witness. 

YuNQ  Chee,  12th  year,  9th  month,  14th  day. 

In  October,  1873,  All  Hoe  f^ame  to  Mr. 
Gibson's  school  for  protection,  saying  she  hud 
been  beaten  and  ill-treated  and  gave  this  con- 
tract as  an  evidence  that  she  had  been  held  in 
slavery.  The  money  she  had  held  in  her  hands  a 
few  seconds,  being  compelled  to  pass  it  immedi- 
ately over  to  her  employer.  Siie  was  taken  to 
Hong  Kong  by  her  mistress  and  shipped  to  this 
country. 

Tax  Paying.— In  San  Francisco,  in  1876, 
324  persons  or  firms  were  assessed  for  personal 
property,  1^31,300.  Of  city  tax  .943,  and  of 
State  tax  .90  of  the  whole  was  collected:  a 
mnch  larger  proportion  than  the  roll  will  show 
for  other  taxpayers.  One  of  the  tea-importing 
firms  was  assessed  for  personal  property  at 
$28,000,  and  another  at)  $22,500,  and  six  firms 
each  at  $10,000,  or  upwards.  In  1880  they 
paid  $200,000  for  poll-tax,  paying  from  $2  to 

$4  each.  .   . 

'On  real  estate  it  is  impossible  to  ascertain  the 
amount  of  assessment,  but  it  is  certain  that  some 
of  the  people  are  so  well  pleased  with  the  country  as 
to  consider  it  a  desirable  home,  or  else  so  shrewd 
lb  business  as  not  to  fear  speculations  in  real 
estate,  in  which  they  often  make  fortunate  turns. 
They  never  trouble  any  board  of  equalization 
for  a  reduction  of  their  assessment,  and  if  their 
assessments  are  made  surprisingly  low,  may 
Allah  forjf!^e  the  error  for  such  is  not  the  inten- 
tion, anc\  pirange  as  it  may  seem  the  names  of 
Chinese  i-eal  estate  owners  are  never  found  on  the 
delinqueot  tax-list.  Some  of  the  Chinamen  are 
reputwa  to  be  worth  from  $100,000  to  if200,000. 


Striking  Characterigtics. — They  are  Jn- 
duslrious,  working  early  and  late,  are  peaceable, 
never  giving  offense  in  the  street. 

Thejy  are  thievish,  and  clannish,  and  have  many 
vices,  but  they  never  garrote  the  belated  club- 
man ;  they  will  lie,  but  their  honesty  in  deed  and 
word  is  not  a  whit  below  any  mercantile  class, 
and  their  veracity  is  as  good  as  the  average  in 
the  same  sphere  of  labor. 

Economy — is  seen  in  shrewd  bargains,  in 
cheap  living,  in  picking  up  the  gold  in  the  tail- 
ings that  slips  through  the  fingers  of  the  Ameri- 
can miner,  in  roasting  his  pork  by  the  carcass  and 
selling  it  to  save  the  services  of  many  cooks  and 
the  cost  of  many  fires. 

The  cobbler  pursues  his  avocation  on  the  street, 
reminding  one  of  the  horseback  rider  during  the 
war,  who  was  shaken  heartily  and  awakened  by 
a  stranger  who  desired  to  know  what  he  paid  for 
lodgings.  For  the  cobbler  a  candle-box  will  fur- 
nish a  seat,  and  all  his  tools  and  stock  in  trade 
be  carried  about  in  another  small  box  or  basket. 

They  can  live  for  about  eight  or  ten  cents  a 
day,  but  the  average  cost  of  the  working  class  is 
about  thirty  cents. 

Skill  in  luiitatinff.- -They  are  great  imi- 
tators, and  so  far  as  known,  do  they  not 
furnish  a  striking  illustration  of  the  truth  of 
the  theory  of  natural  selection?  Do  not  their 
caudal  appendages  and  power  of  imitation  show 
their  relation  to  the  monkev,  and  the  link  they 
form  in  the  development  of  tlie  race? 

They  are  servile  imitators.  The  sea  captain 
who  had  an  oil  painting  injured,  and  gave  it  to 
a  Chinese  artist  to  reproduce,  was  amazed  to  see 
the  reproduction  of  the  gash,  and  the  Chinese 
tailor  who  "followed  copy"  in  making  the  new 
coat  with  a  patch  on  the  elbow,  needed  his 
ideas  enforced  with  blows,  yet  they  never  ex- 
hibit the  stupidity  of  the  new  coachman,  who 
was  sent  to  grease  the  carriage,  and  i  eturned  in 
half  an  hour,  saying  he  had  **  greased  it  all  ex- 
cept the  stickf  tile  wlieels  han^  on."  They  are 
more  than  imitators,  for  the  ingenious  heathen 
Chinee  can  produce  more  expedients  from  his 
fei-tile  brain  than  Ah  Sin  aces  from  his  flowing 
sleeves.  In  the  mountains  John  will  own, 
drive,  and  care  for  his  own  team  "f  horseS;  or 
mules. 

Their  vs'ae  as  servants  or  laborers  is  largely 
in  this,  that  they  do  as  they  are  shown,  and 
have  no  more  opinion  of  tLeir  own,  than  the 
miner  who  replied  to  his  superintendent^  when 
asked  "  what  is  this  ore  worth  a  ton  ?  "  "I  don't 
know,  to  me  it's  worth  four  dollars  a  day." 

Ponder  of  Control  over  Their  FeelingSf 
— mivkes  their  faces  as  unreadable  as  marble. 
They  are  the  least  demonstrative  of  all  the  nap 
tionalities  represented — the  veiy  opposite  of  the 
Frenchman.  They  rarely  laugh  or  cry,  yet  thejr 
become  excited,  have  no  fear  of  death,  and  theit 
Chines')  oa*^S  roll  from  them  at  a  rapid  rate. 


-\,^ 


283 


They  often  express  their  feeling  by  oaths  and 
curses,  to  which  American  profanity,  it  is  to  be 
hoped,  will  not  attain  by  the  next  Centennial. 
They  wish  their  enemies  to  be  chopped  into  a 
thousand  pieces, — that  his  bowels  may  rot  inch 
by  inch,  and  in  geneal,  their  frequent  oaths  are 
vile,  low,  and  most  vulgar,  and  they  use  them  in 
the  consciousness  that  the  mistress  "  can't  sabee." 

As  servants  many  regard  them  as  a  great  re- 
lief to  the  insolence  and  visiting  so  common  to 
the  class,  and  find  them  as  reliable  as  any  others. 
They  are  liked  and  hated  in  proportion  as  they 
are  faithful  and  find  kind  mistresses.  Many 
have  tried  them  to  their  disgust,  and  others 
would  have  none  but  Chinamen. 

Their  language  gives  them  no  little  advantage 
in  publishing  their  grievances.  A  kind  and  cul- 
tured lady  was  greatly  attached  to  her  China- 
man, who  remained  in  her  kitchen  about  two 
years,  and  then  returned  to  China  to  visit  his 
relations. 

His  successor  proved  to  be  a  surly  and  care- 
less fellow,  and  was  soon  discharged.  No  China- 
man would  then  stay  for  more  than  a  few  days 
or  a  week,  and  a  "  tfap  "  was  engaged  but  with 
the  same  mysterious  result.  At  length  some 
characters  in  the  written  language  were  discover- 
ed in  the  dust  on  the  back  of  the  mirror  in  the 
dressing  bureau,  and  after  they  were  effaced  the 
trouble  ceased ! 

Chinese  Jtusinefis. — Among  the  Chinese  are 
pawnbrokers,  money-changers  and  bankers, 
watcii-makers  and  jewelers. 

Th3  laundries  are  on  every  block,  in  some  of 
which  the  work  is  excellent,  and  in  others  miser- 
able and  destructive. 

Their  process  of  sprinkling  the  clothes  by  tak- 
ing a  mouthful  of  water  and  ejecting  it  in  the 
form  of  spray  is  curious,  but  a  method  of  sprink- 
ling that  is  not  surpassed  for  evenness. 

Rag-pickers,  and  itinerant  peddlers  go  about 
with  two  large  baskets  on  the  ends  of  a  ))amboo 
pole,  and  in  this  way  burdens  are  usually  carried 
and  often  300  (X)unds  are  carried  on  a  •'  dog-trot  " 
from  ten  to  twenty  miles  a  day. 

These  baskets,  loaded  Avith  fish,  carefully 
picked  in  the  markets,  and  vegetables  selected 
■with  like  care,  or  raised  in  little  suburban  gar- 
dens of  their  own,  or  fish  and  vegetables  of  the 
worst,  are  carried  if  they  suit  the  customers. 
Their  baskets  are  at  the  doors  of  all  the  side- 
streets,  and  supply  provender  to  those  who  cry 
most  against  cheap  labor. 

Chinese  Jewelry  may  be  purchased  for  curi- 
osity only,  but  the  purchaser  may  feel  easier  than 
in  buying  a  Connecticut  clock,  for  the  articles 
carvea  in  gold  and  silver  are  of  pure  metal — 
the  Chinese  having  not  yet  learned  the  intricacies 
of  cheap  jewelry. 

Firm  names  are  not  subject  to  change  with 
death  or  change  of  partners,  but  are  often  per- 
petuated for  centuries. 


Chinese  Worktnen, — Their  employments 
and  occupations  are,  in  short,  legion.  They  are 
adapted  best  to  light,  quick  work,  and  engaged 
much  in  cigar  making,  the  use  of  the  ^sewing 
machine,  gardening,  mining,  picking  fruit,  etc., 
but  have  also  proved  the  most  efficient  class  for 
building  railroads  and  levees. 

They  are  used  almost  exclusively  for  gathering 
castor-beans,  strawberries  and  other  fruits.  As 
merchants,  they  prove  successful,  "  cornering  " 
the  pea-crop  and  other  markets,  and  they  even 
charter  vessels  for  the  flour,  tea  and  rice  trade 
with  China.  Thus  it  is  evident  that  the  labor 
question  wears  a  serious  aspect  on  its  face,  but 
it  is  like  the  ocean  disturbed  most  on  the  surface, 
and  will  be  settled  with  some  respect  to  the  de- 
mands of  capita],  as  such  questions  have  always 
been  settled. 

One  of  the  manufacturers  engaged  in  the  Mis- 
sion Woolen  Mills,  and  two  other  factories  says  : 
"  We  employ  about  one  thousand  Chinese.  We 
pay  white  men  wages  200  per  cent,  higher  than 
that  paid  to  the  Chinese.  Some  of  the  Chinamen 
are  equal  to  white  men,  but  most  of  them 
earn  from  90  cents  to  $1.20  a  day.  All  the 
money  for  Chinese  laborers  is  paid  to  one  man. 
We  started  manufacturing  with  white  labor, 
and  three  or  four  yeais  ago  came  to  the  con- 
clusion that  we  wanted  to  hire  seventy-five 
white  boys,  and  bought  that  many  machines. 
The  second  day  the  boys  went  out  on  an  excur- 
sion in  the  bay,  and  did  not  come  back  to  work 
until  the  day  after.  W^e  spoke  to  them  about 
it,  and  said  it  must  not  happen  again.  There- 
ujwn  one  of  the  boys  put  on  his  jacket  and  said 
to  the  others,  '  Let  him  go  to  h — 1,'  and  most  of 
them  left  the  factory.  We  cor.'d  not  rely  on 
white  boys.  Afterward  I  engaged  nine  girls. 
One  day  I  went  to  the  factory  and  found  no 
steam  up.  I  asked  »  What's  the  matter  ? '  The 
foreman  said  the  girls  did  not  come,  they  are  off 
on  a  holiday,  They  had  too  many  holidays — 
Christmas,  New  Year's,  Fourth  of  July,  St. 
Patrick's  Day,  and  many  other  holidays  I  never 
lieard  of.  It  went  on  from  bad  to  worse,  and 
w  hen  I  found  that  the  girls  would  rather  loaf  on 
the  streets  than  work,  I  discharged  them.  I  am 
not  in  favor  of  Chinese  labor,  mind  you,  but  I 
have  found  out  that  white  boys  and  girls  of  San 
Francisco  cannot  be  depended  upon.  If  we  had 
no  Chinamen,  our  factories  would,  in  a  measure, 
be  hindered  in  their  progress.  If  we  had  no 
manufactories  of  blankets  here  articles  of  that 
description  would  be  bought  in  England.  Shoes 
would  be  bought  in  Boston,  if  they  were  not 
manufactured  here.  Our  foreman  has  instruc- 
tions to  give  white  labor  the  preference.  We 
have  offered  inducements  to  obtain  Chinese 
labor. 

Would  it  be  a  good  thing  to  send  our  raw 
material  East,  and  have  the  articles  manufac- 
tured there  and  sent  back  to  us  ?    We  sell  goods 


284 


here  as  cheap  as  they  are  sold  in  the  East,  and 
better  goods,  although  white  labor  in  Now  Eng- 
land is  cheaper  than  Chinese  labor  on  this  coast. 
The  houses  that  export  and  sell  eastern  r\T.nii- 
factured  goods  would  put  up'  the  prices  of  shoes, 
blankets,  etc.,  if  our  factories  did  not  keep  them 
down  by  competition.  If  our  factories  were 
closed,  prices  would  go  up  at  once." 

And  a  private  individual,  "Chang  Wo,"  makes 
a  good  ix)int  in  public  discussion,  when  he  says, 
"  What  for  the  Americans  have  us  in  their 
houses  if  we  are  not  clean  and  steal  ?  You  can 
see." 

Among  them  are  some  hardened  crimina.. ,  as 
their  implements  of  murder  to  be  seen  in  the 
office  of  the  Chief  of  Police,  or  their  pawn- 
broker's shops,  will  testify,  and  seventeen  per 
cent,  of  the  ccnvicts  at  San  Quentin  are  Chinese. 
On  the  one  hand,  it  is  difficult  to  convict  thein, 
because  false  witnesses  are  idle  in  the  market 
places,  but  on  the  other  hand,  they  need  no  con- 
viction in  the  judgment  of  many,  and  only  a  pre- 
text is  sufficient  to  get  them  into  prison,  (Juilty 
American  criminals  enjoy  no  fewer  chances  of 
escaping  justice,  but  many  more. 

Chinvse  Itegtaumiifs  ami  Foo(f. — The 
restaurants  are  easily  distinguished  by  their 
gaudy  signs  of  red  and  gilt,  covering  the  whole 
front  of  the  building,  and  the  immense  round 
Chinese  lanterns  suspended  from  the  upper 
stories.  The  higher  the  story,  the  more  elaborate 
and  costly  is  the  rude  furniture  and  the  more 
aristocratic  the  entertainment ;  or  like  the  Palace 
Hotel,  "  the  high  floors  are  the  high-toned."  In 
these  high  places  the  merchants  dine  their  friends 
on  a  dozen  different  courses.  They  have  a 
greater  variety  of  food  than  the  French  or  any 
other  nation.  Some  of  this  is  best  seen  in  the 
provision  stores,  and  some  in  the  restaurants. 
On  Jackson  Street,  above  Dupont,  is  one  of  the 
oldest  and  best  restaurants;  others  are  on  oppo- 
site sides  of  Dupont,  near  Clay.  In  meats,  the 
Chinese  use  pork,  kid,  chickens,  and  the  greatest 
variety  of  dried  fish,  dri<?(l  ojsters,  gizzards, 
shrimps,  and  ducks.  Beef  is  not  a  favorite 
meat,  especially  in  the  southern  part  of  China. 
The  legends  concerning  calamity  ujwn  those  who 
eat  so  serviceable  an  animal  are  numerous. 

Ducks  are  hatched  and  reared  by  artificial  proc- 
ess in  China,  and  when  dried  in  the  sun  and 
pressed  in  oil,  are  an  important  article  of  com- 
merce. Dried  duck  eggs,  sometimes  called  "  salt 
eggs,"  being  first  salted  for  three  days,  and  then 
covered  or  coated  with  mud  and  salt,  look  as  if 
they  were  coated  with  glue,  and  covered  with 
black  sand  in  stucco  fashion.  The  Chinese  call 
them  Ham  Tan,  and  sell  them  at  35  cents  a 
dozen. 

Shrimps  are  not  only  dried,  but  are  made  into 
a  sauce  that  looks  like  an  apothecary's  ointment. 
Many  Chinamen  in  Mexico  are  engaged  in  catch- 
ing and  salting  shrimps*    The  variety  of  dried 


and  salted  fish  is  almost  endless.  Meat,  fish  aiid 
vegetables  are  cut  up  fine  and  cooked  with 
rice  flour  and  nut-oil  in  a  variety  of  cakes,  orna- 
mented in  various  styles  and  colors,  then  sold  at 
street  stands  and  eaten  in  restain-ants.  Rice 
flour  and  nut-oil  are  used  in  almost  all  tho 
articles  of  pastry.  Rice  is,  of  coiu-se,  the  staple 
article  of  food,  and  the  taking  of  a  meal  is  "eat- 
ing rice."  Tile  Chinaman's  receptivity  for  this, 
like  that  of  tiio  ocean,  is  never  satisfied.  IIo 
will  take  a  bowl  containing  it,  in  the  left  hand, 
and  by  a  dexterous  use  of  the  chop-sticks  will 
shovel  it  into  his  mouth,  and  swallow  it  as  one 
fish  swallows  another,  and  he  seldom  fails  to  re- 
peat the  process  less  than  five  or  six  times.  Of 
teas,  only  the  black  is  used  in  the  best  restau- 
rants, and  this  of  a  superior  quality,  costing 
often  several  dollars  a  pound.  It  is  never  boiled 
l)ut  placed  in  a  small  cup  with  a  cover  to  fit,  and 
boiling  water  poured  in,  and  then  is  left  to  steep 
in  the  presence  of  the  guest.  Tea  is  the  com- 
mon beverage,  and  offered  on  all  occasions.  On 
receiving  a  call  from  a  stranger,  it  would  be  ex- 
ceedingly ill-niainiered  not  to  offer  some  hot  tea 
the  moment  after  he  enters.  It  is  always  taken 
as  hot  as  it  can  be  procured,  and  without  sugar 
or  milk.  For  keeping  it  hot  they  sometimes 
have  a  covered  basket  well-lined  with  some  non- 
conductor of  heat,  into  which  the  tea-pot  fits, 
and  wiiieh  will  retain  the  heat  for  several  hours. 

They  >eldom  drink  water,  and  wine  is  spar- 
ingly used.  At  their  fe.asts  and  on  social  occa- 
sions, they  are  obliged  to  go  through  the  whole 
bill  of  fare,  taking  a  little  of  whatever  is  ofit'ered. 

The  long,  white,  tapering  Chinese  radish,  like 
our  own  winter  radish,  few  will  mistake,  unless 
they  are  first  cut  up  and  boiled  in  oil. 

One  of  the  most  delicate  '-egetables  they  call 
the  water-chestnut,  a  reddish  brown  bulb,  about 
as  large  as  an  Italian  chestnut,  and  resembling 
the  Indian  turnip.  They  are  pare<l  or  shaved 
with  but  little  .vaste  and  great  rapidity. 

The  Chinese  turnip  will  not  be  readily  recog- 
nized, exce])t  by  its  faint  odor.  It  is  oval,  but 
quite  irregular  in  shape. 

The  I  )ean  is  a  great  favorite,  and  of  it  there 
.are  many  varieties,  some  exceedingly  small. 
Bean  sprouts  are  sold  in  all  the  vegetable  stores, 
and  bean  curd  is  a  staple  article  of  food.  One 
might  mistake  it  for  corn-starch  or  milk  curd. 
It  IS  prepared  by  grinding  the  bean  and  boiling 
the  meal.  The  soft,  yellow-covered  cakes  on  the 
stands  in  the  street,  are  only  bean  curd. 

Colt's-foot  candy  is  not  an  article  of  food,  but 
that  which  resembles  it,  is  only  the  bean,  cooked 
and  drawn  out  into  sticks,  like  candy ;  and  the 
long,  thin, — dried  string-beans,  one  would  say, 
are  not  beans  at  all,  but — yellow  blossoms  to  ne 
cooked  in  soup  with  lean  pork.  Besides  aspara- 
gus, lettuce,  celery  and  oui  common  articles, 
mustard  leaves,  large  and  small,  are  .much  used 
for  "  greens." 


M 


"'\ 


285 


Pumpkins  and  squashes,  such  as  the  "Melican 
man  "  eats,  and  does  not  eat,  and  sweet  jwtatoes, 
dried  and  prepared  as  i)otato-rice  ;  and  yams, 
with  fibres  somewhat  resembling  those  adhering 
to  the  cocoa-nut  shell,  are  always  seen  about  the 
stores. 

Bamboo  is  cut  into  pieces  about  six  inches  in 
length,  split  and  preserved  in  brine,  and  cooked 
witTi  meat. 

Dried  olives,  black,  and  like  a  three-cornered 
piece  of  dried  plum,  are  kept  in  earthen  jars, 
and  cooked  with  meat.  The  abalone,  a  s-hell-fish, 
is  dried  and  exported  to  China.  A  sea-weed  that 
resembles  the  pulp  of  peaches,  dried  like  peach- 
leather,  is  a  cunous  article  of  food,  and  may  be  as 
good  as  the  bird's-nests.  The  greasy  sausages 
are  not  attractive,  though  evidently  much  sought 
after. 

In  the  great  varietj  of  preserved  fi'uits,  some 
are  food  fit  for  Americans.  The  ginger  root  is 
well  known,  and  not  less  pleasant  are  the  lemon, 
sliced  citron,  small  oranges,  water-inelons,  olives, 
persimmons,  pud  frozen  sugar. 

Of  nuts  there  are  many,  some  for  cooking,  and 
acme  for  eating.  The  white  nut  is  like  a  small 
almond,  with  a  thin  tihell  and  kernel,  and  is  used 
for  pastry. 

At  the  street  corners  are  little  packages  of 
brown  paper.with  slices  of  cocoa-nut,mingled  with 
the  curious  beetle  nut,  and  the  wliole  is  daubed 
with  some  red  paste,  made  out  of  lime  juice  and 
colored  by  the  dust  of  the  street  and  some 
foreign  pinkish  earth. 

One  of  the  most  palatable  nuts  is  the  "  Lai 
Che,"  rougher  than  the  cup  of  an  acorn;  the 
meat  of  which  is  black  and  sweet,  and  the  seeds 
of  which, though  hard,  contain  a  delicate  kernel. 
The  pea-nut  is  found  on  all  the  stands,  but  the 
American  product  is  far  superior  to  the  Chinese. 

Water-melon  seeds  are  eaten  raw,  and  used  in 
cooking.  With  all  the  variety  of  edibles  from 
China,  of  which  only  a  few  of  the  most  striking 
and  common  have  been  named,  and  with  the 
new  dishes  adopted  in  this  countrj',  it  may  be 
hard  for  tlie  Celestial  to  arrange  liis  bill  of  fare, 
but  they  find  rice  economical,  and  they  love  it 
dearly ;  yet  when  the  palate  of  ojie  was  tested  by 
asking  him.  "  Of  all  things  to  eat,  what  would 
you  rather  have  ?  "  He  reflected  for  a  time  and 
replied  deliberately,  but  with  emphasis  of  tone, 
"  Well,  me  likee  best  a  nice  piece  of  liog-meat." 

Teinfttes, — These  are  to  be  found  in  almost 
every  tov/n  containing  a  few  hundred  Chinamen, 
but  the  most  elaborate  are  in  San  Fiancisco. 

No  effort  is  made  to  present  an  attractive  ex- 
terior, although  more  money  is  expended  by 
Chinamen  in  proportion  to  their  means  upon 
their  temples  than  Americans  spend  u[)on  their 
churches. 

The  temples  are  not  under  the  control  of  the 
six  companies,  or  in  any  way  connected  with 
them,  nor  does  the  relations  of  any  one  to  his 


time  of  worsiiip- 


company  affect  his  place,   or 
ing.      The  chief  temples  are 

1.  On  Clay  Street,  opposite  the  south-west 
corner  of  the  Plaza,  in  the  building  in  which 
the  Hop  Wo  Company  has  its  head-quarters, 
ayd  for  this  reason  sometimes  distinguished  as 
tlie  Hop  AVo  Temple. 

2.  The  Dupont  Street  Temple,  with  entrance 
from  Dupont  near  Jackson,  and  also  from  Jack- 
son, near  Dupont. 

3.  The  Pine  Street  Temple,  entrance  just 
above  Keainej',  in  the  building  of  the  Koug 
Chow  Asylum. 

4.  The'Brooklyn  Place  Temple,  off  Sacramento 
Street  near  Stockton. 

5.  The  Jackson  Street  Temple,  on  the  north 
side  of  Jackson,  near  Stockton. 

The  most  ]iopular  among  the  CI  inese  is  the 
one  on  Brooklyn  Place,  but  it  is  small,  retired, 
with  only  one  god,  and  not  attractive  to  tourists. 

The  luost  desirable  to  visit  are  the  first  two 
mentioned.  The  Clay  Street  is  the  newest, 
most  elaborate  and  expensive,  but  the  Dupont 
Street  contains  about  four  times  as  many  gods 
as  any  other. 

The  temple  on  Jackson  Street  is  devoted  to 
the  worship  of 

Ma  Chn, — the  goddess  of  sailors,  and  her 
two  assistants,  on  either  side  of  her.  She  has 
had  various  high-sounding  titles  bestowed  upon 
her,  the  most  common  of  which  is  "  Tin  Han," 
the  Heavenly  Queen,  and  to  her  the  boatmen  cry 
often,  in  piteous  tones,  '•  Grandmother  Ma 
Chu !  "     "  Grandmother  Ma  Chu ! " 

This  goddess  was  the  daughter  of  a  sea-faring 
man,  whose  sons  followed  the  father's  uncertain 
and  stormy  life.  While  ^/eaving  one  day  she 
fell  asleep  and  her  weary  head  rested  on  her 
loom,  where  she  saw,  v\  a  dream,  her  father  and 
two  brothers  and  their  respective  junks,  periled 
in  a  terrific  storm.  She  agonized  to  rescue  them 
from  danger,  and  seized  her  brothers'  junks,  one 
in  each  hand,  and  her  father's  in  her  mouth.  As 
she  dragged  them  to  the  shore,  she  heard  her 
mother's  voice  calling,  and,  with  dutiful  spirit, 
but  great  forgetfulness  of  her  father's  danger, 
she  opened  her  mouth  to  answer,  and  awoke 
from  her  dream ;  but  in  a  few  days  tidings  came 
of  a  dreadful  storm  and  the  loss  of  the  father's 
junk  and  the  safety  of  the  brothers.  Her  dream 
has  given  her  more  honor  than  Pharaoh's  gave 
Joseph,  and  the  Virgin  Mary  has  no  loftier  titles. 
Thank  offerings  are  made  to  her  by  boatmen, 
after  every  deliverance  from  peril.  One  of  her 
assistants  is  "  Favorable-wind-ear,"  and  the 
other,  "Thousand-mile-eye." 

1.1  this  temple  ore  also  the  gods  that  irere 
formerly  in  a  large  temple  off  Dupont  and 
Jackson  streei^s. 

The  temple  on  Pine  Street  is  devoted  to  Kwan 
Tai,  the  god  of  war.  It  is  in  the  building  of 
the  Kong  Chow  Asylum,  and  has  connected  with 


hf\ 


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287 


it  a  r(M)iii  for  aiKU'.stiiil  woisliip.  The  .isyluiri 
has  a  laig«  hall  for  tlie  inihlic  luuetiiigs  of  tlie 
couipaiiy. 

TliH  stranger  in  San  Francisco  will  visit  the 
temples  on  Ciay  Street  an<l  Jackson  Street,  if 
no  others,  'i'he  Cli>,y  Street  has  takiMi  away  some 
of  tlie  tinsel  tiiat  formt-rly  adorned  tlujoneon  Dii- 
pont  Street,  and  is  the  most  elaborate,  liaving 
costaboiit*U>,(K)(>,  and  is  dedicated  to  tin;  worsjiip 
of  Kwan  Tai,  and  this  same  god  occupies  the 
central  place  in  several  other  temijles. 

He  is  tiie  moM  popiilttr  of  all  the  gods,  and  is 
always  reel-faced,  with  a  long,  black  beard. 

On  the  walls  of  every  t<'mj)le  and  about  the 
entrances  are  seen  red  placards — the  records  of 
the  gifts  made  for  establishing  and  supporting  it. 
The  "  Heathen  Chinee,"  unlike  the  iVmericau 
Cluistians,  who  alicays  gives  their  alms  in  secret, 
connect  merit  and  woiship  with  these  gifts,  some- 
times burning  incense  before  the  names  of  tiio 
donors,  wliile  an  attending  priest  offers  prayers 
for  blessings  on  thi-ni. 

In  tiie  Clay  Street  'i'emple  is  an  elaborate  piece 
of  gilt,  carved  wood,  lepresonting  mythology  and 
histt)ry.  It  cost  about  !?;3,00(»,  and  enclosed  in 
glass,  coverlid  with  wiie.  Other  pi(!ces  of  carv- 
ing, similar  in  character,  are  sJispended  about 
the  room ;  but  this  significance  of  them  is  as 
mysterious  as  the  ix)nderous  classics  of  Confu- 
cius and  Mencius. 

Richly  embroidered  silk  banners — all  hand- 
wrought,  are  ready  to  be  carried  in  front  of  or 
over  the  idol  when  he  goes  out  in  procession  on 
festal  days.  Spears  are  used  at  the  same  time 
for  his  protection,  and  flags  carried  to  declare 
his  authority. 

From  the  ceiling  are  suspended  tablets  with 
mottoes  inscribed  upm  them,  and  some  are 
pliiced  vertically  on  the  inner  or  outer  walls, 
and  tlio  door-posts. 

Some  of  the  temporary  ones  contain  good 
mottoes ;  others  are  thank-offerings.  One  of  the 
latter,  richly  embroidered  and  fringed,  (now  in 
the  Ciay  Street  Temple,)  is  a  thank-offering  of 
Doctor  Lai  Po  Tai,  and  has  four  Chinese  char- 
acters, to  wit:  "Shing,  Shan,  Mo,  Keung,"  i.  e., 
"  the  gods  whose  holy  age  is  perpetual." 

This  doctor  has  amassed  a  fortune,  by  con- 
summate skill  in  the  grossest  quackery,  and 
without  performing  any  wonderful  cures,  has 
tried  his  hand  on  many  rich  and  noble  ones,  and 
among  them  even  a  noted  professional  of  an 
eastern  city,  who  jiroved  in  his  experience  the 
truth  of  the  familiar  adage,  "  never  too  old  to 
learn." 

The  doctor  lighted  a  match  in  his  room,  when 
it  was  filled  with  gas,  and  as  a  consequence  had 
to  8 'cure  himself  the  skill  of  American  physi- 
cians; he  barely  escaped  death,  and  then  com- 
memorated his  recovery  by  this  thank-offering, 
placed  originally  in  the  Dupont  Street,  but  subse- 
quently removed  to  the  Clay  Street  Temple. 


The  neatest  of  the  temples  or  Josh  Houses  is 
the  Clay  Street,  but  all  are  dirty,  dingy  and 
doleful.  A  heaven  of  such  character,  would  be 
dtisirable  to  no  civilized  people,  and  the  temples 
imprt!ss  one  concerning  the  religious  taste  of  the 
C'hinese,  as  an  ignorant  and  irreverent  hater  of 
the  J(!ws  seiMuetl  to  be  impressed,  when  he  re- 
marked to  a  friend,  "  And  you  tell  in<;  that  the 
Jews  were  tin;  chosen  people — God's  peculiar  peo- 
ple? I  think  it  showed  a  very  jwor  taste  on 
God's  part." 

The  ornamentation  is  of  the  cheapest,  most 
miserable  tinsel,  gay  and  gaudy,  smoked  and 
begrimed  with  dirt,  and  the  air  laden  with  a 
nauseating  odor  of  incense  from  grateful  sandal- 
wood, min,,led  with  the  deadly  fumes  of  the 
opium  pipe,  and  the  horrible  smell  of  oil  lamps 
and  many-colored  vegetable  tallow  candles. 

Spread  out  before  the  gods  there  is  usually 
roast  chicken  and  pig,  sweetmeats  or  cakes,  and 
always  vessels  or  libations  of  tea,  and  a  burning 
lamp.  Everyone  will  be  likely  to  wonder  how 
the  gods  dispose  of  all  the  food,  and  why  the 
constant  and  large  sujiply  of  tea  does  not  weaken 
the  nerves,  but  I  he  gods  consume  only  the  iinnia- 
t  rial  and  essential  parts  of  the  ottering,  after 
which  the  meats,  fruits,  pyramids  of  cakes,  the 
vermicelli  of-rice  flour  and  other  articles  are  car- 
ried home  to  be  eaten  by  the  offerers. 

'J"h<;  gods  are  always  enthroned  in  an  alcove, 
out  of  which  their  hideously  extorted  and  repul- 
sively daubed  faces  look  with  fiendish  malignity 
or  silly  unmeaningness. 

The  hell  is  a  fixture  of  every  temple,  and  also 
the  drum,  the  former  curious  with  dragon  orna- 
mentations, and  the  latter  with  stout  raw-hide 
and  huge  copper  rivets.  Their  purpose  is  easily 
guessed,  for  sometimes  these  gcds  are  "  asleep," 
or  "  on  a  journey."  There  is  also  a  box  placed 
on  a  high  stand,"and  carefully  closed,  containing 
the  great  seal,  and  which  ought  to  be  a  better 
possession,  than  Alladin's  lamp. 

An  oven  is  also  a  common  fixture  to  accoirmo- 
date  in  the  burning  of  mock-money,  or  mock- 
clothing,  or  any  representation,  the  reality  of 
which  the  gods  receive  through  the  power  of 
fire. 

There  are  no  set  times  for  worship,  except  feast 
and  festival  days,  such  as  the  birthdays  of  the 
gods. 

The  calendar  which  determines  these  days  is 
very  abstruse,  and  no  logaritl.n.s,  differential,  or 
integral  calculus  would  make  it  intelligible. 
They  have  "big  months"  and  "  little  months  " 
of  ;i()  or  29  days,  and  this  year,  1876,  has  13 
months;  i.  e.,  a  sort  of  leap-year,  with  two,  fifth 
months. 

On  festival  days  huge  paper  images  of  the  gods 
are  made  and  carried  in  processions  through  the 
streets,  and  then  allowed  to  remain  in  the  temple 
for  a  season. 

The  artificial  flowers  are  generally  renewed 


■#« 


'^■■S';^^ 


288 


once  a  year  ;  in  fact,  in  no  other  nation,  is  there 
•A  more  general  change  —  so  many  new  leaves 
turned  over,  as  in  tlie  Ciiinese  New  Year. 

Large  urns  and  pewter  and  brass  vessels  of 
shapes  and  styles  that  the  gods  are  supixised  to 
appreciate,  are  used  for  burning  sandal-wood 
sticks  or  incense. 

There  is  the  greatest  irreverence  and  confu- 
sion in  their  worship — one  never  paying  regard 
to  the  devotions  of  another.  In  one  quarter  of 
the  rooni  some  may  jabber  while  others  are 
throwing  the  ka-puo,  or  sliaking  the  bamboo 
splints,  or  consulting  the  spirits,  or  prostrating 
tnemselves  to  tlie  earth. 

Peacock  feathers,  which  are  "  flower,"  "green," 
"  one-eyed,"  "  two-eyed,"  or  "  three-eyed,"  and 
used  as  marks  of  honor,  and  designate  ranks 
like  epaulets  in  the  army,  and  the  siimosities  of 
the  ♦*  dragon,"  "  the  greatest  benefactor  of  man- 
kind," "  the  protecting  deity  of  the  empire,"  and 
the  "  national  coat  ot  arms,"  are  used  wherever 
possible. 

One  dragon,  called  the  true  dragon,  ia  Jlve-claw- 
ed,  and  this  one  the  emperor  appropriates  to  him- 
self, and  the  whole  of  it  is  never  visible  in  one 
picture — if  the  head  is  visible  the  tail  is  out  of 
sight.  It  has  scales  but  no  ears,  yet  has  two 
horns,  th-ough  which  it  is  said  to  hear. 

Mode  of  WofHhiping  and  Coimultltiff 
t/te  Godit, — On  entering  the  temple,  the  wor- 
shiper makes  the  "  Kow-Tow,"  striking  the  floor 
with  )v'3  head  three  timeo. 

In  co.isulting  the  gods,  the  ka-pue,  or  divining 
sticks  are  used,  and  also  bamboo  slips. 

The  ka-pue  are  pieces  of  wood  six  or  eight 
inches  long,  and  shaped  like  the  half  of  a  split 
bean.  One  is  held  in  each  hand,  they  are  then 
placed  together,  and  while  bowing  let  fall  to  the 
ground.  If  both  flat  surfaces  rest  on  the  ground, 
♦'  bad  luck  to  ye ; "  both  flat  surfaces  upward 
mean  indifference,  or  equivalent  to  "  cocked  " 
dice ;  and  when  one  flat  and  one  rounded  surface 
rest  on  the  ground,  the  favor  of  the  god  is  assured. 

Sometimes  the  worshiper  holds  a  bunch  of 
small  incense  sticks  in  his  hand,  while  he  pros- 
trates himself,  and  whenever  the  first  effort  is 
not  successful,  "  the  best  out  of  three,"  and  even 
the  "  best  out  of  three  times  three,"  or  further 
trial  will  answer  as  well. 

The  bamboo  slips  are  contained  in  tin  or 
bamboo  canisters,  about  a  foot  high,  and  three 
inches  in  diameter.  They  are  kept  by  the  priest 
in  charge  of  the  temple,  but  whose  services  do 
not  seem  at  all  necessary  for  the  ordinary 
worshiper.  On  each  slip  are  numbers  or  char- 
acters corresponding  to  slips  of  paper,  which 
contain  directions  or  answers  like  boots  and 
shoes,  "ready-made  and  warranted  to  fit." 
After  bowing  thrice,  the  worshiper  kneels,  and 
shakes  the  slips  till  one  falls  to  the  floor.  The 
approval  of  the  god  is  sought  on  this  lot,  and  the 
process  must  be  repeated  till  a  favorable  answer 


is  obtained.  Sometimes  the  deity  does  not 
know  the  circumstances  of  the  case,  and  must 
be  informed  tliereof  by  burning  paper  that  con- 
tains the  necessary  information.  Sometimes  he 
nuist  be  projiitiated  by  offerings  of  mock-money, 
wliite  or  yellow,  (silver  or  gold)  and  sometimes 
by  food. 

The  priest  receives  a  fee  for  the  slip  of  paper 
in  his  charge,  and  he  is  sometimes  enqtloyed  to 
write  letters,  and  sometimes  his  services  as  a 
medium  nmst  be  had.  For  this  latter,  he  stands 
at  a  table,  on  which  is  a  slight  covering  of  sand, 
and  tiiere  r  )i>eats  his  incantations  until  he  at- 
tains the  clairvoyant  or  mediumistic  state,  and 
then  he  writes  witii  a  stick,  under  direction  of  the 
spirits,  what  is  intelligible  to  no  one  else,  but 
what  he  never  fails  to  interpret. 

Kwan  Tai  is  tiie  deity  of  the  Clay  Street  and 
the  central  figure  in  the  Pine  Street  Josh 
House.  lie  is  a  great  favorite.  "  Chinaman  he 
likee  him  heap  muchee,  and  he  likee  Chinaman 
too." 

Small  images  of  him  are  sometimes  seen  in 
stores  and  dwellings.  He  is  the  Mars  of  the 
Flowery  Kingdom  a  "Military  Sage,"  and  is 
worshiped  for  success  in  contests  of  almost  every 
character,  and  grows  in  favor  from  year  to  year. 
He  was  a  distinguished  officer  who  flourish- 
ed in  the  later  Han  dynasty,  and  was  promi- 
nent in  the  wars  which  then  agitated  the  three 
States. 

In  the  Jackson  Street  Temple,  there  are  other 
deities,  two  of  which  will  be  easily  recog- 
nized :  Wah  Tah,  the  god  of  medicine,  who 
holds  in  his  left  hand  the  welUcoated  pill,  and 
who  is  consulted  for  diseases  of  all  sorts,  and 
Tsoi  Pak  Shing  Kwun,  the  god  of  wealth,  who 
holds  a  bar  of  bullion.  He  is  the  patron  deity 
of  merchants,  and  all  receivers  of  moneys,  and, 
around  his  cabinet  or  throne,  are  pasted  maiw 
motto«'s  or  charms,  such  as  "  Protect  us  with 
Heaven's  chief  wealth." 

Other'3eities  here  are  Nam  Hai  Hung  Shing 
Tai,  the  god  of  fire,  or  "  the  Fiery  Ruler  of  the 
Southern  Regions ; "  the  local  god  of  Canton,  a 
"Great  and  Holy  King." 

Yun  Ten  Tin  is  the  god  of  the  sombre 
Heavens,  able  to  prevent  conflagrations,  and 
eating  vegetables  only. 

In  the  i-oom  on  the  east  side  of  the  main  room, 
is  the  Goddess  of  Mercy  h-jld  in  great  venera- 
tion by  married  women.  She  is  especially 
worshiped  on  the  first  and  fifteenth  of  every 
month.  The  god  of  the  Southern  Mountain,  or 
local  god  of  Canton,  is  much  worshiped. 

In  the  many  gods,  there  is  a  great  variety,  and 
some  confusion;  but  the  Chinamen  think  they 
have  great  advantage  over  our  religion.  They 
have  gods  in  the  temple,  and  gods  at  home,  and 
one  of  the  heathen  remarked  to  an  American  who 
reviled  his  polytheism  : 

"  Chinaman  religion  heap  better  Melican  man's. 


\  • 

I 


re  other 
recog- 
\e,  who 
nil,  and 
ts,  and 

who 
on  deity 
>ys,  and, 
d  many 

with 


FJT^  f^;MCIFi€  F0¥§iiST. 


280 


You  go  church  Sunday  Utile  while  ;  you  come  home, 
and  allee  week  you  lie  and  .steal,  and  do  heap 
muchee  bad  Ihingn.  Chinaman,  he  yot  goils  at 
home,  see  him  al'ee  time,  Chinaman  must  he  always 
good." 

In  the  rear  of  the  temple,  there  is  a  room  for 
the  sale  of  incense,  and  other  articles  used  in 
worship,  the  profit  of  which  poos  to  tlio  priest. 
The  candles  are  all  of  vegetable  tallow,  made 
from  seeds  or  kernels,  which  grow  in  clusters  on 
the  tallow-tree.  Beef  tallow  would  be  offensive  to 
the  gods,  for  the  ox  and  buffalo  are  animals  of 
merit,  and  the  odor  of  burning  animal  fat, 
would  be  repugnant  to  the  nostrils  of  the 
deities. 

Gambling, — In  this  they  have  an  advantage 
over  our  own  race, — in  a  god  of  gambling,  a 
dilapidated,  seedy  individual,  with  cue  coiled 
around  the  head,  and  a  gambling  card  in  his 
hair,  and  also  in  worshiping  the  tiger,  grasping 
in  his  mouth  or  paws  a  large  cash.  •' Ilis  Ex- 
cellency, the  Grasping  Cash  Tiger,"  is  usually 
pictured  on  wood  or  paper,  and  is  sometimes 
toinged,  like  pictures  of  another,  "  His  Excellency 
the' Devil.' 

The  Chinese  are  fond  of  gambling,  and  have 
invented  many  methods  of  playing  for  money. 

Their  dens  m  the  business  quarter  arc  many, 
always  with  a  white  sign,  and  usually  far  back 
with  a  sentinel  at  the  entrance  from  the  street,  to 
give  the  alarm  of  an  approaching  officer,  or  to 
turn  away  the  "  white  foreign  devils "  who  may 
have  too  great  a  thirst  for  know'.edge.  Some- 
times as  many  as  three  doors  and  sentinels 
must  be  passecl. 

There  is  many  an  "  Ah  Sin  "  who  can  flatter, 
shame,  threaten  and  lead  on  his  victim.  In 
China  both  gaml>ling  and  lotteries  are  unlawful; 
but  it  is  easy  to  bribe  officials  there,  and  here 
the  Chinese  practice  these  same  old  arts.  Any 
and  everything  will  be  gambled  away,  from  their 
money  to  their  shoes — they  gamble  with  bamboo 
slips,  all  held  as  if  for  drawing  lots,  and  giving 
the  cash  to  the  only  one  which,  when  drawn,  has 
a  string  attached  to  it,  with  defective  poetry,  in 
which  the  missing  word  is  to  be  guessed ;  and 
with  a  revolving  pointer,  with  cards,  dice,  and 
dominoes,  but  the  most  popular  of  all  the  games 
is  that  of  "  Fan  Tan,"  usually  contracted  into 
"  Tan,"  a  game  foreign  to  the  Chinese,  and 
the  origin  of  which  is  more  mysterious  than 
that  of  chess,  but  which  means  "spread  out 
money." 

As  only  Chinamen  are  admitted  in  San  Fran- 
cisco to  the  sacred  precincts  of  these  resorts,  the 
game  can  not  be  seen  except  by  special  favor.  In 
some  interior  towns  the  Chinese  are  not  unwil- 
ling to  admit  visitors.  It  is  somewhat  similar  to 
the  popular  American  game  of  faro,  but  so  much 
simpler  in  all  the  appurtenances  of  the  play,  that 
when  a  lucky  raid  of  the  police  is  made  through 
the  quickly  barred  doors  and  winding  passages. 


the  only  implements  left  are  a  table,  \  few  chairs, 
an  empty  bowl  and  a  pile  of  beans. 

Tiio  eanie  is  played  on  a  table,  around  which 
the  players  sit.  1  he  sides  of  the  table,  or,  of  a 
board,  which  lies  upon  a  table  are  numbered, 
"one,"  "two,"  "three,"  and  "four."  Cash, 
a  round  Chinese  coin,  with  a  square  hole 
in  the  center,  worth  one-tenth  of  a  cent, 
were  formerly  used,  but  as  the  seizure  of 
money  is  evidence  of  gambling,  they  now  use 
beans  instead  of  cash.  A  large  pile  of  them  iii 
laid  on  the  table  and  covered  wholly,  or  in  part, 
by  an  in .drteu  bowl,  and  the  betting  commences 
on  either  "  one,"  "  two,"  "  three,"  or  "  four." 
The  money  may  be  laid  on  the  sides  correspond- 
ing to  the  numbers,  or  as  is  now  generally 
practised,  papers  having  the  amount  of  the  re- 
spective bets,  written  on  them,  are  placed  on 
tlie  table  instead  of  the  coin. 

The  cover  is  then  removed,  and  the  beans  are 
drawn  away,  four  at  a  time,  and  the  side  of  the 
table  wins,  according  to  the  remainder,  one,  two, 
three,  or  nothing.  Sometimes  the  bet  is  taken 
on  the  corners,  dividing  the  chances  of  two  sides. 
The  keeper  of  the  house  receives  a  percentage  of 
all  the  money  paid,  varying,  it  is  said,  from  three 
to  nine  per  cent. 

There  are  nearly  two  hundred  of  these  gam- 
bling houses  in  the  city,  and  they  furnish  a  rich 
living  to  the  policemen,  who  levy  black-mail  on 
them,  varying,  it  is  said,  from  five  to  twenty  dol- 
lars a  week. 

The  Theatres. — There  are  two  on  opposite 
sides  of  Jackson  Street,  just  below  Dupont.  The 
most  popular  is  the  oldest,  the  "  Chinese  Royal," 
on  the  north  side  of  the  street.  The  entrance  to 
this  is  through  a  long  passage,  about  five  feet 
wide,  lined  with  the  tables  of  fruit  and  cake 
venders. 

The  auditorium  has  a  parquette,  that  seats 
about  6CM)  and  a  gallery  for  about  250;  a 
smaller  gallery  for  about  50  Chinese  women, 
and  two  private  boxes,  void  of  all  comfort  from 
cushions,  curtains  or  cleanliness,  but  elevated 
and  roomy  enough  for  six  persons,  near  the 
stage  and  offering  the  only  chances  for  securing 
reserved  seats. 

The  price  of  admission  varies  with  time  of 
entrance.  Early  in  the  evening,  *^  barbarians" 
are  charged /our  bits,  but  the  Celestials  find  o^ea 
doors  to  thp!  front  or  best  seats,  for  two  bits. 
After  ten  o'clock,  the  Melican  man  can  secure  an 
entrance  for  two  bits,  and  any  one  going  at  this 
hour  can  see  all  he  desires  before  the  end  is  an- 
noxmced.  The  best  parts  of  the  play  are  seldom 
reached  before  11  o'clock,  and  the  play  kept  up 
often  until  2  or  3  o'clock.  For  a  private  box, 
$2.50  is  charged. 

There  are  no  stage-curtains,  no  flies,  or  shift* 
ing  scenes,  no  decorations  of  any  kind,  simply  a 
platform,  at  the  rear  of  whidi  the  orchestra  sita, 
and  on  either  side  of  the  musicians,  is  a  door  for 


<  ^ 


MHs- 


29U 


FMM  PsiCiFiv  Fotmisr. 


INTERIOR  OF  CHINESE  THEATRE. 


ingress  or  exit.  As  the  deception  is  jjerfectly 
apparent,  when  one  falls  in  war  or  passion,  and 
is  not  carried  off  the  stage,  nor  hidden  behind 
the  drop,  bnt  rises  and  trots  away,  there  is  a 
decided  feeling  that  the  whole  thing  is  "too 
thin"  for  long  enjoymert. 

The  acting  is  as  rude  as  all  the  surroundings, 
yet  it  is  often  true  to  Chinese  life.  During 
the  play  of  a  comedy,  the  whole  audience  has 
been  convuhed  with  laughter,  over  and  over 
again,  almost  without  cessation,  suddenly  break- 
ing out  in  loud  exclamations ;  but  usually  their 
faces  are  unmoved,  except  as  they  munch  the 
pea-nuts,  sugar-cane,  etc.,  peddled  throughout 
the  room,  or  as  they  sink  into  dreamy  contem- 
plation, under  the  satisfying  influence  of  a 
pure  Havana  of  their  own  make. 

The  costumes  are  a  marvel  of  gaudiness,  but 
devoid  of  all  elegance.  The  plays  are  nearly  all 
of  historic  character, — rebels  plotting  for  pos- 
session of  the  government,  sometimes  seated  on 
the  throne ;  messengers  sent  out  to  negotiate ; 
and  encounters  between  the  rival  factions. 

Sometimes  a  love  plot  is  enacted  when  the  old 
man  and  old  woman  torture  and  rack  the  Kirl, 


and  the  miser  is  apt  to  f-pjiear  with  liis  bag  ot 
gold  to  be  stolen  or  wrested  from  him  over  his 
dead  body. 

In  nearly  every  play  there  are  acrobatic  feats 
of  a  truly  creditable  chaiucter.  The  actors 
whirl  and  double  up  and  turn  somersaults,  till 
the  modern  gymnast  is  quite  put  to  shame. 

There  is  no  great  variety  of  performers — no 
"  stars  "  on  the  stage,  but  some  plays  draw  morn 
than  otheis ;  and  what  is  most  striking,  there  arc; 
no  female  performers.  Men  dressed  as  women 
talk  in  a  sing-song  tone,  and  falsetto  voice.  The 
deception  in  this  respect  is  greater  than  any 
other,  and  foreigners  would  go  away  fully  con- 
vinced, that  they  had  listened  to  female  perfoiin- 
ers  and  heard  attempts  to  sing,  unless  told  to  the 
contrary. 

The  music  is  simply  horrible.  While  the  men 
in  the  audience  and  the  orchestra  sit  with  hats 
on,  the  orchestra  may  have  their  coats  off,  work- 
ing away  like  blacksmiths  on  the  loud  cymbals, 
triangles,  guitar,  fiddles,  gongs  and  wind  instru- 
ments, keeping  up  an  incessant  din  scarcely  loss 
than  infernal. 

But  the  Chinese  enjoy  their  theatre,  and  for 


T 

two 
heig 
The. 
pedest 
two 
proiec 
Uiches 
One 
is  wor; 
To  the 
vegeta 
ninceu 
ancesti 
servani 
always 
Tlie 
meats 
of  swir 
of  foo< 
graves: 
mock 
All  km 
highest 

As 
the  imi 
the  coa 
the  dea 
likee  pc 


V 


k 


rMM  eaciFie  rotmisr. 


291 


r-'* 


m 


lis  bag  ot 
over  his 

)atic  feats 
le    actors 

■saults,  till 

ame. 

(liners — no 

draw  movo 

ij,  there  av(i 
as  women 

oice.  The 
than  any 
fully  con- 
e  perforni- 
told  to  the 

He  the  men 
with  hats 
,8  off,  wovk- 
id  cymbals, 
rind  instru- 
icarcely  loss 

tre,  and  for 


intorflstinjf  plays,  or  at  intervals  of  a  few  months, 
when  a  new  phi/  begins,  the  house  will  he 
crowded.  In  China,  a  cuini>iiiiy  of  actors  is  fre- 
quently hired  to  pluy  at  houl(^ 

FimeriUti  anil  Houut'iufi  the  Dead, — 
The  funerals  are  conducted  with  great  pomp. 
The  corpse  is  sometimes  placed  on  the  side- 
walk, with  a  roast  hog,  ancl  innumernllo  other 
disliiis  of  cooked  food  ncmr  it,  when  hired  mourn- 
ers with  white  sheets  about  them,  and  two  or 
three  priests  as  masters  uf  ceremony,  and  an 
orchestra  of  their  liideous  music,  keep  up  for 
hours  such  uncurthly  sounds  as  ought  to 
frighten  away  all  evil  spirits. 

The  wagon-load  of  food  precedes  the  corpse 
to   the  grave,  and  from  it  is  strewri  "  cash,"  on 

Eaper  to  open  an  easy  passage  to  the  "  happy 
unting  grounds"  of  the  of'iur  world. 

AureHfml  iVorttlni  .j  the  most  common 
of  all  worship  among  the  Chinese.  'J'ublets 
may  be  secsu  \\\  ores,  dwellings  and  rooms  con- 
nected with  temples.  Its  origin  is  sluoudcul 
in  mystery.  One  account  derives  it  from  an  at- 
tendant to  a  prince  about  350  B.  C.  The  prince 
while  traveling,  was  about  to  perish  from  hun- 
ger, when  he  cut  a  piece  of  flesh  from  his  thigh, 
and  ha<l  it  cooked  for  his  master,  and  perished 
soon  after.  When  the  prince  found  the  corpse 
of  the  devoted  servant,  he  was  moved  to  tears, 
and  erected  a  tablet  to  his  memory,  and  made 
daily  offerings  of  incense  before  it.  Other 
absurd  stories  of  filial  devotion  are  told  for  the 
,'Uimc  purfwse. 

Tlie  ancestral  tablet  of  families,  varies  from 
two  to  three  inches  in  width,  and  12  to  18  in 
height,  and  some  are  cheap  and  others  costly. 
There  are  usually  three  pieces  of  wood,  one  a 
pedestal  and  two  uprights,  but  sometimes  only 
two  pieces  are  vsed.  One  of  the  uj  light  pieces 
projects  forward  over  the  other  from  one  to  three 
Uiches. 

One  tablet  can  honor  only  one  individual,  and 
is  worshiped  for  from  three  to  five  generations. 
To  the  spirit  of  ancestors  a  sacrifice  of  meats, 
vegetables,  fruits,  etc.,  is  often  made  with  mag- 
ninceuce  and  iionip,  and  the  animal  worship  of 
ancestral  dead  at  tiieir  tombs,  is  of  national  ob- 
servance, and  occurs  usually  in  April,  and 
always  108  days  after  the  winter  solstice. 

The  oft'erinj^  are  more  plentiful  than  the 
meats  at  a  barbecue  in  the  Far  South,  carcasses 
of  swine,  ducks,  chickens,  wagon-loads  of  all  sorts 
of  food  and  cups  of  tea,  are  deposited  at  the 
graves;  fire-crackers  continually  exploded,  and 
mock  money  and  mock  clothing  freely  consumed. 
All  kneel  and  bow  in  turn  at  the  grave,  from  the 
highest  to  the  lowest. 

As  in  the  case  of  the  gods,  the  dead  consume 
the  immaterial  and  essential  elements,  ahd  leave 
the  coarse  parts  for  the  living.  Unlike  the  gods, 
the  dead  consume  ducks.  "  Idol  no  likee  duck, 
likee  pork,  chicken,  fruits." 


Xfiv  Yfui' — is  the  great  season  for  rM:ial 
pleasure  —  the  universal  holiday.  All  work 
censes  tor  the  day,  for  a  week  or  two  weeks  ;  and 
the  stores  are  never  closed  except  at  this  season  • 
and  the  prosptM'ity  and  standing  of  firms  is  meas- 
med  hy  the  length  of  time  the  store  is  shut.  In 
China,  stores  are  sometimes  closed  for  two  or  three 
months.  Kveryone  makes  New  Year's  calls,  and 
gives  himself  up  to  enjoyment,  and  before  New 
Year  all  debts  must  be  tiaid,  and  accounts  ad- 
justed. 

Tlie  Mvthod  ofct>'  ulnfhiffand  Count- 
hiff — is  very  rapid,  and  r.i  ly  be  seen  in  any  store. 
Counters  are  strung  Hi  e  beads  on  wires  and 
framed,  and  astoDislung  results  reached  with 
these  before  "tl"  arbari.ui "  haj  written  down 
his  figures.  For  writiiip'  thij  use  rice-paper, 
India  ink  and  camers-hair  pencils. 

Opium  Smohim! — is  a  common  practice. 
Restiuirants,  the  Clay  Street  and  Dupont  Street 
Temples,  many  stijn-s  and  shops  have  the  low 
tables  or  hard  lounges  on  which  the  smokers  re- 
cline. 

A  block  serves  for  a  pillow.  The  opium,  pipe, 
lamp  and  a  fivinncli  steel  needle  are  all  that  is 
necessary  to  bind  the  victim  in  fatal  fa.scination. 
The  poisonous  drug  is  boiled  into  a  thick  jelly- 
like mass,  and  with  the  needle  a  small  portion  is 
scraped  from  the  vess(!l  containing  it,  rolled  into 
a  pill  on  the  end  of  the  needle,  and  placed  in  the 
flume  until  it  swells  like  a  soap-bubble,  half  an 
inch  in  diameter. 

The  pipe  has  an  inverted  bowl  with  a  flat,  cir- 
cular top,  two  inches  in  diameter,  in  the  center 
of  which  is  a  tmall  opening,  in  which  the  heated 
paste  is  placed,  and  as  the  smoker  reclines  on 
his  side  he  places  the  pipe  to  the  flame  and  takes 
two  or  three  short  whiffs,  removes  the  pipe,  and 
lies  back  motionless,  while  the  smoke  is  blown 
slowly  through  his  pallid  nostrils.  He  repeats 
the  pioc(!S3  till  he  falls  back  in  a  state  of  silly 
stupefaction,  alike  pitiable  and  disgusting.  Once 
formed,  the  habit  is  never  given  up,  and  only 
three  or  five  years  will  wreck  tlu  strongest 
constitution  and  noblest  manhood. 

Exaggerated  stories  are  told  of  visits  to  these 
dens  l)y  youth  and  women  of  American  descent, 
for  indulging  in  this  vice,  but  they  are  rare  and 
only  by  me  lowest  classes  of  the  women. 

U'hi/  Ainet'icu  'is  do  not  Siteak  the 
Chinese  Lunguuge. — There  is  no  alphabe^ 
and  the  characters  used  are  variously  estimated 
at  from  25,000  to  80,000. 

There  is  one  written  language,  but  twenty  or 
more  dialects,  as  the  natives  have  twenty  or  more 
ways  of  pronouncing  the  numerals  1,  2  and  3, 
wliich  are  alike  to  the  eye  of  the  Frenchman  and 
German. 

The  dialects  may  also  be  written.  And  each 
of  the  numerous  characters  may  have  a  widely 
different  meaning  by  the  slightest  change  of  tone 
or  inflection. 


i  n 


^ri 


rmm  ^dtanc  romtiST. 


A  teacher,  with  some  knowledge  of  the  lan- 
guage, was  instructing  the  class  in  Bible  truth 
and  endeavoring  to  tell  the  interesting  story  of 
Samson  slaying  a  lion  with  the  jaw-bone  of  an 
ass,  and  perceived  a  strange  look  on  the  scholars' 
faces,  and  found  that  the  slightest  error  of  in- 
flection had  made  the  story  run — "  he  killed  the 
lion  with  the  jaw-bone  of  a  louse." 

To  convert  them  to  Christianity  is  a  difficult 
work,  for  many  reasons.  Besides  the  barrier  of 
a  language  that  is  almost  impossible  to  acquire, 
many  of  the  characters  express  inadequately  the 
ideas  of  the  Christian  reliction,  and  the  Chinese 
often  form  erroneous  opinions  concerning  it, 
from  other  sources.  One  was  questioned,  and 
replied  as  follows : 

Q.  "  Jake,  do  vou  know  God  ?"  A.  "  God  ? 
No — "So  sabee  "  {skakitig  his  head  and  wearing 
a  vacant  look).  Q.  "God,  Melican  man's  Josh 
— ^you  no  sabee  God  ?  "  A.  " No,  me  no  sabee 
God."  Q.  "You  sabee  Jesus  Christ?"  A.  "Yes, 
mo  sabee  him,  JesusGhriat.  Duffy  call  him  cows." 

T/te  CitHiese  Missions.— An  eminent  Jesuit 
has  BSidi  as  quoted  in  The  Monitor :  "  These 
pagans,  these  vicious,  these  immoral  creatures 
are  incapable  of  rising  to  the  virtue  that  is 
inculcated  by  the  religion  oi  Jesus  Christ,  the 
World's  Redeemer  and  the  Catholics  make  no 
attempt  to  instruct  them  in  true  devotion  to  the 
Virgin  or  the  church. 

The  oldest  and  largest  mission  is  that  of  the 
Presbyterians,  at  the  corner  of  Sacramerito  and 
Stockton  Streets,  where  an  evening  school  is  held 
daily  except  Sunday,  when  religious  services  and 
Snndaj-Bchool  are  held.  Bev.  Dr.  Loomis, 
who  speaks  the  Cantonese  dialect,  and  his  wife, 
six  other  Americans  and  three  Chinese  assist- 
ants, are  connected  with  this  mission  and  its 
out-stations,  San  Jose  and  Santa  Bosa.  Besides 
tlie  school  there  is  a  home  for  Chinese  women 
with  over  twenty  inmates,  to  which  the  super- 
intendent and  a  band  of  Ghristia9  women  seek 
to  gather  the  unfortunate  and  degraded  for  in- 
structions in  sewing,  embroidery  and  other 
useful  occupations  and  moral  reform. 

There  is  a  church  connected  with  the  Pres- 
byterian Mission  of  eighty^  members,  andanother 
with  the  Methodibt  Mission  of  seventy  members. 

At  Los  Angelos  is  a  mission  commenced  by 
Rev.  Ira  M.  Condit,  now  in  care  of  Eev.  Mr. 
Nevin,  of  the  U.  P.  Church.  Both  of  these 
speak  the  Cantonese  dialect. 

Mr.  Condit  and  wife  established  and  have 
now  a  flourishing  mission  in  Oakland,  with  a 
church  membership  of  fifiy-ei^ht,  and  a  station 
at  Sacramento  with  thirty  Chnstiaq.  members. 

With  every  church  or  mission  is  a  Y,  M.  C. 
Association. 

The  Methodist  Mission  is  on  Washmgton 
Street,  above  Stockton,  and  efficiently  managed 
under  the  zealous  superintendency  of  Rev.  Otis 
Gibson,  formerly  a  missionary  at  Fuchu.    This 


has  a  branch  at  San  Jose,  schools  and  home  for 
women,  and  several  assistants  like  the  mission 
before  described. 

On  the  west  side  of  •»  The  Plaza  "  opposite  the 
City  Hall,  are  the  head-quarters  of  the  Amer- 
ican Missionary  Association,  connected  with 
which  are  several  schools  in  Oakland,  Santa 
Barbara,  and  other  parts  of  the  State. 

The  Baptists  have  also  a  flourishing  mission 
on  Wa-^hington  Street,  near  Dupont,  and  many 
of  the  churches  have  ^unday  Schools  for  the 
Chinese, 

The  whole  number  in  evening  schools  is 
stated  by  S.  Wells  Williams  as  2,750,  and  aver- 
age attendance,  825;  the  whole  number  in  Sun- 
day-schools, 3,300,  and  average  attendance, 
1,100. 

A  specimen  of  their  amusing  attempts  at 
English,  is  given  herewith,  as  found  at  the  en- 
trance to  an  alley  or  court  on  Sacramento  Street, 
just  below  Stockton : 


MAKECM(^E 
HO  ypsTiT{f6'Room 

LjyEJNTHELAHE 


The  meaning  is,  Lee  Tuck  makes  cages,  and 
his  workshop  is  at  No.  or  room  1(J,  in  the  alley 
or  court,  and  it  can  be  reached  without  climbing 
long  flights  of  rickety  stairs,  and  this  being  his 
dwelling  also,  he  is  at  home  at  all  times. 

Whether  they  are  more  successful  in  making 
poetry,  the  reader  may  determine,  from  the  fol- 
lowing, which  has  been  attributed  to  one  of 
their  scholars,  but  perhaps  erroneously,  viz  : 

"  How  doth  the  little  t)ii8y  bee, 
Delight  to  bark  niid  bite, 
And  gnther  lion«y  all  the  day, 
And  eat  it  up  at  night." 

It  is  even  doubtful  whether  it  has  been  de- 
rived in  any  way  from  Confucius,  or  any  of 
their  classics. 

Instances  are  told  of  theirhonesty  to  an  extent 
that  is  exceedingly  rare  among  American  Chris- 
tians, as  of  one  who  in  purchasing  a  knife  select- 
ed one  at  a  dollar  and  a  half,  instead  of  one  at 
half  a  dollar,  and  received  a  dollar  too  much  in 
change,  and  discovered  the  error  only  after  he 
reached  his  home.  The  next  day  he  walked  back 
three  miles  to  return  the  money  I 


293 


ome  for 
mission 

jsite  the 
}  Amer- 
>d  with 
i,  Santa 

mission 

id  many 

for  the 

hools  is 
Lnd  aver- 
r  in  Sun- 
endance, 

empts  at 
it  the  en- 
ito  Street, 




cages,  and 
I  the  alley 
it  climbing 
s  being  his 
les. 

in  making 
jm  the  fol- 

to  one  of 

,  viz : 


as  been  de- 
or  any  of 

to  an  extent 
rican  Chris- 
cnife  select- 
id  of  one  at 
boo  much  in 
ily  after  he 
ivalked  back 


Climate  of    California    and   Hints  to 
Invalids, 

Galifomia  has  been  the  scene  of  many  re- 
markable recoveries  of  health,  and  of  many 
sore  disappointments  to  invalids  wLo  thought 
that  commg  to  this  coast  would  insure  them  a 
new  lease  of  life.  Thore  is  no  doubt  that  a 
judicious  availing  of  its  peculiar  climatic  fea- 
tures is  highly  useful  in  many  cases,  and  it  is 
equally  certain  that  an  arbitrary  resort  to  them 
may  hasten  the  end  which  one  seeks  to  advert. 
Cold  winds  from  the  Pacific,  often  loaded  with 
fog,  prevail  eight  or  nine  months  in  the  year,  for 
a  good  part  of  the  day,  and  make  warm  wrap- 
pings necessary  for  well  persons.  When  these 
trade-winds  cease,  the  rainy  season  then  commen- 
ces, variable  and  uncertain,  often  very  damp  and 
chilly,  the  sky  sometimes  clouded  for  days  in 
succession.  In  the  interval  between  rains  and 
summer  winds,  both  spring  and  autumn,  there  is 
a  period  of  variable  duration,  when  the  sky  is 
often  clear,  the  air  balmy,  the  sun  genial,  and 
"verything  in  the  outer  world  is  charming  and 
i'xhilarating ;  but  this  period  is  not  sufficiently 
fixed  to  be  counted  on,  and  is  liable  to  be  inhos- 
pitably broken  uix)n  by  raw  winds,  and  chilly, 
foggy  days. 

The  cause  which  thus  unf.avorably  affects  the 
climate  of  San  Francisco  in  so  marlced  a  degree, 
spread  out  as  it  is  along  the  Golden  Gate,  the 
only  interruption  for  hundreds  of  miles  to  the 
lofty  Coast  Range,  erected  as  a  barrier  between 
the  cold,  foggy  ocean  on  one  hand,  and  the 
spreading  central  basin,  gleaming  bright  and  hot 
with  sunshine  on  the  other,  affects  in  some  de- 
gree many  other  \  'j'ces  along  the  sea-coast.  At  a 
sufficient  distance  iand,  the  ocean  breezes  are 
tempered,  and  there  are  places  near  the  sea-shore 
where  the  trend  of  the  coast  and  outjutting 
headlands  break  the  force  of  the  trade-winds, 
and  give  delightful  shelter  from  them.  It  is  this 
circumstance  which  gives  to  Monterey  and 
Santa  Barbara  their  colehrity.  Santa  Bar- 
bara lies  on  a  bay  fa<nng  to  the  south, 
the  usual  coast-line  facing-  south-west,  and  is  in 
the  lee  of  I'oint  Conception,  a  bold  headland 
which  turns  away  from  it  most  of  the  cold  ocean 
winds.  San  Rafael,  near  San  ''^rancisco,  nestles 
under  the  lee  of  Tamalpais  and  adjacent  hills, 
and  is  also  sheltered,  in  h  direct  line,  it  is  not 
over  six  or  seven  miles  from  San  Francisco,  and 
yet,  when  it  is  foggy  or  uimtterably  windy  in 
the  city,  it  is  of*en  warm,  clear  and  still  there. 

The  consumptive  patient  should  carefully  avoid 
exposure  to  the  trade-winds  by  seeking  some 
resort  sheltered  from  them,  or  which  they  reach 
after  being  thoroughly  tempered  by  inliinu  travel. 
Neglect  +o  heed  this  caution  is  the  reason  of 
many  fatal  disapix)intments  experienced  by  Cali- 
fornia visitors  seeking  health. 

In  the  Biunmer  season,  bejrond  the  range  of  the 
ocean  trade-winds,  the  ohoioe  between  locations 


for  invalids  in  California  will  be  governed  as 
much  by  other,  as  their  climatic  advantages. 
Ease  of  access,  hotel  and  boarding-house  accom- 
modations, social  advantages,  sources  for  amuse- 
ment, comparative  expense,  are  the  considerations 
that  will  chiefly  weigh  in  deciding  the  question. 
Sunshine  will  be  found  everywhere;  the  days, 
however  hot,  are  always  followed  by  cool  nights; 
there  are  no  storms,  no  sudden  changes,  the  air 
is  dry  and  clear  and  life-inspiring. 

In  winter  it  naay  be  desirable  to  go  well  south, 
where  there  is  little  rain  and  little  cold  weather, 
though  even  at  San  Diego  a  fire  is  very  com- 
fortable sometimes.  Every  place  has  cUmatic 
features  of  its  own,  knowledge  of  which  is 
gained  only  by  experience  and  is  of  great  value. 

A  few  rnUos  in  California  may  make  almost 
incredible  difference  in  climate.  The  east  side 
of  the  Coast  Range  is  warm  and  pleasant — the 
west  side  often  cold,  foggy  and  severe.  As  this 
range  is  sometimes  sixty  miles  in  width,  in  it 
are  many  little  valleys  of  most  delightful  tom- 
pei-ature,  and  on  top  of  some  of  its  ridges  is 
the  best  place  for  camping  for  invalids,  because 
the  changes  of  temperature  a/e  less  there  than 
anywhere  else.  The  basin  of  the  Sacramento 
and  San  Joaquin  Valleys  has  a  climate  of  its 
own.  The  stranger  thinks  it  hot,  but  those  "  at 
home  "  praise  their  own  always.  The  traveler 
is  always  told  that  it  is  other  places  that  are  hot, 
malarious  and  sickly.  In  Sacramento  it  is  said 
to  be  hot  in  Marysville,  and  in  Marysville  they 
call  Oroville  hot,  and  Stockton  mr>n  say  it  is  hot 
at  Merced,  and  at  Merced  one  finds  tlie  heathai 
gone  to  Bakersfield.  The  fact  is,  all  parts  of 
the  Great  Central  Basin  of  California  are  warm 
in  summer  and  subject  occasionally  to  north 
winds,  which  blow  usually  three  days  at  a  time. 
They  are  like  Siroccos,  but  die  away  at  night. 
Wlien  this  wind  sweeps  over  hundreds  of  miles 
of  dry,  scorched  plains,  it  is  like  the  breath  of 
a  furnace,  and  the  mercury  rises  to  110  and  120 
degrees  in  the  shade. 

The  origin  of  the  name  Cahfomia  is  disputed, 
but  some  say  it  is  from  two  Spanish  words, 
"caUente  fornalo."  This  seems  plausible,  for 
the  words  mean  ' '  heated  furnace. "  The  extremo 
diyness  of  the  climate  enables  men  and  animals 
to  endure  the  heat  surprisingly.  Sunstrokes 
are  almost  wholly  unknown  in  this  basin,  and 
perhaps  have  never  occurred  in  San  Francisco. 
Horses  travel  fifty  or  sixty  miles  a  day  with  the 
mercury  at  100  degrees  or  more.  In  January, 
1854,  the  mercury  fell  in  San  Francisco  to  twenty- 
five  degrees,  the  coldest  day  known  since  1850. 
Tlie  greatest  extreme  of  heat  since  1850  was  in 
September,  1852,  ninety^ight  degrees.  The 
mercury  rarely  reaches  ninety,  and  only  during 
a  north  wind,  and  for  a  shorV'  season.  Not  many 
of  the  children  bom  in  Sru  Francisco  have  seen 
snow  fall  there.  The  winters  are  lika  the  Indian 
summer  of   Southern  Pennsylvania,  except  a 


I,— Grizzly  Qlant,  Maripo<n  Ororo.    2.— Tliree  Ornoe*,  Calaveras  Group.    3.— Scenes  In  MarliKisa  Grove. 
4.— Trunk  of  Big  Tree,  Mariposa  Grove.    5.— Nutural  Arch,  Big  Tree,  Mariposa  Grove.    0.— Calaveraa  Group,  Bif  Trees. 


hit 


>:S^p.v)t.v/iff^ 


kove. 

up,  Btp  Trees. 


295 


clearer  atmosphere.  Sometimes  nearly  all  the  ' 
rain  falls  at  mght,  and  the  season  resembles  that 
of  Southern  Alabama  in  winter.  The  cool 
summers  and  warm  winters  are  not  excelled  in 
any  other  country.  The  need  of  blankets  on  a 
summer  night  is  probably  due  to  the  rapid 
radiation  which  the  clear  atmosphere  permits. 
The  season  of  fogs  in  San  Francisco  is  from 
June  to  August,  when  the  trade  winds  are 
strong.  The  consumptive  should  carefully 
avoid  exposure  to  these.  The  dampness  of  the 
summer  fogs  is  not  conducive  to  perspiration, 
but  aggravating  to  rheumatic  and  neuralgic 
affections. 

On  the  Sierras,  from  ten  to  one  hundred  feet 
of  snow  may  be  found.  The  chill  of  this  comes 
down  over  tne  interior  basin  in  winter,  especially 
in  the  northern  part  of  the  State.  In  Southern 
Oalifomia  frost  is  rarely  known.  From  the 
center  of  the  State  south,  roses  bloom  through 
all  the  winter.  Sleighing  can  be  had  only  in 
northern  mountain  towns. 

But  tliere  is  a  warm  belt  from  Bedding  in  the 
north  to  San  Bernardino  on  the  south,  extend- 
ing along  the  foot-hills,  twenty  miles,  more  or 
less,  wide  and  about  seven  hundred  long,  com- 
paratively free  from  frost,  a  most  delightful 
region  for  invalids.  Along  this  the  heated  air 
of  the  interior  Tolleys  seems  to  be  stayed  by  the 
colder  air  of  the  mountains. 

Thunder  and  lightning  are  very  rare,  except 
in  the  mountains,  and  hail  is  seldom  seen. 
Bivcrs  and  creeks  are  usually  empty  during 
summer — evaporating  and  sinlung  in  the  sand, 
but  with  the  advent  of  cooler  nights  in  autumn 
they  begin  to  flow  before  the  rains  come.  The 
long,  cloudless  summer  causes  the  grass  to  dry 
up,  and  green  sod,  so  refreshing  to  the  eye,  is 
replaced  by  brown,  hard-baked  or  deep-dusty 
earth.  With  the  fall  rains,  grass  springs  up 
from  the  seed.  The  earth  rests  in  summer,  and 
is  dresaed  with  green  in  winter. 

There  is  a  wet  and  a  dry  season.  The  rains 
begin  early  in  autumn  and  end  late  in  spring, 
but  are  not  as  copious  or  constant  as  strangers 
imagine.  Usu^y,  they  decrease  as  you  go 
south  to  the  upper  end  of  the  San  Joaquin 
Valley,  and  increase  again  south  and  west  of 
tiie  San  Fernando  and  San  Bernardino  moun- 
tains. At  Shasta,  nine  feet  has  fallen  in  one 
season,  and  at  Bakerfifteld  less  than  an  inch  in 
a  corresponding  length  of  time.  For  San  Fran- 
cisco, June,  July,  August  and  Septeml)er  are 
dry,  only  2.5  inches  of  rain  having  fallen  in 
these  months  collectively  in  seventeen  years.  It 
has  been  estimated  that  tlicre  ai-e  on  an  average 
220  perfectly  clear  days  in  a  year;  eighty-five 
days  more  or  less  cloudy ;  and  sixty  rainy.  Ob- 
servations covering  a  period  of  seventeen  years 
show  the  mean  fall  of  ra.  •  in  San  Francisco  to 
be  in  January,  4.51  incnos;  February,  3.08; 
March,  2.76;  April,  1.74;  May,  .82;  June,  .05; 


July,  .02;  August,  .01;  September,  .09;  October, 
.57;  November,  2.74;  December,  5.37. 

The  average  fall,  in  inches,  for  the  seasons 
and  the  year  at  different  localities  is : 


PLACK8. 

Spring.  Sum'er.  Aut'mn 

Winter.'  Year. 

SanFranciHco.... 

Sacramento 

Humboldt  Bay... 

Fort  Yuma    

San  Diego  

6  64 
7.01 
1361 
0.27 
2.74 

.13 

.00 
1.18 

i.;to 

0.55 

3.31 
2.61 
4.87 
0.88 
1.24 

11.38 

la.u 

16.03 
0.72 
6  60 

21.41 

21.73 

84.6« 

3.  IS 

10.43 

The  following  tables  show  the  mean  tempera- 
ture of  January  and  July  in  various  portioi  of 
California,  and  other  states  and  counti^es, 
taken  from  reliable  sources : — 


PLACES. 


JAN, 


Deg. 
4'J 

C2 


San  Francisco 

Monterey 

Santa  Barbara |    64 

Los  Angeles '     62 

64 
61 
62 


Jiirupa 

San  Uiego. ... 

Han  Luis  Bey 

Bauramnnto ^  45 

Stockton i  49 

HumboldtBay 40 

Sonoma '  45 

St.Helena !  42 

Vallejo !  48 

Antioch 43 

Millerton 47 

Fort  Jones 34 

Fort  Beading 44 

Fort  Yuma C6 

Cinciuijatl 30 

NowYork ■  31 

New  Orleans 65 

Maples '  4! 

Jerusalem 47 

Honolulu I  71 

Mexico !  62 

Funchal 60 

37 
33 
41 


London 

Dijon 

Bordeaux 

Mentonw 40 

Marseilles j    43 

Genoa 46 

Algiers I     62 


JITLY. 


Deg. 
67 
68 
71 
78 
73 
72 
70 
73 
72 
68 
66 
77 
67 
70 
90 
71 
82 
92 
74 
77 
82 
76 
77 
78 
65 
70 
62 
70 
73 
73 
75 
77 
76 


Dirrsn- 

XMOK. 


Deg. 
8 
6 

17 
'^3 
19 
21 
18 
28 
23 
18 
21 
35 
19 
27 
43 
37 
38 
36 
44 
42 
27 
30 
30 
7 
13 
10 
26 
37 
32 
3:j 
3J 
31 
C3 


San  Francisco 49 

VaUesJo |47 

Sacramento ;46 

MiUerion {47 

Fort  Beading {41 

Fort  Yuma |66 

8t.  Helena 42 

Vacaville 143 

Meadow  Valley. . .  |34 

Fort  Jones | 

Grass  Valley 27; 

New  York ':)1 

New  Orleans .56 

Steilacoom 38 

37 
52 
46 
60 
71 
47! 
52 
43 


London 

City  of  Mexico... 

Maples 

Funchal 

Honolulu 

Jerusalem 

Canton 

Nagasaki 


61  62  •!& 

62  53^57 

48  51'".tf 
53  66  62 
4b  64  69 
68  66  73 

49  60  67 

63  65,62 
37  41  : 
137  4349 
137138  44 
30  33147 
58'64;70 

40  42  46 
64i61  63 
4716150 
«0  62t» 
72172  74 
63i6U  64 
66:62  70 
44  60  61 


66  66  67 
59  67  67 

67  71,73 
6S  ^3,90 

65  77  82! 
7687  92 
6670  77: 

66  72  74 
6166  71 
51  61  71 
49;62  63 
67i07  73; 
76181  82 
56  60  64 
61  58  62 
66  66I66 
6(i70  76 
64  67:70 
76177:78 
66  71  77 
77i81{83 
69i77.80 


67  68  67  64  61 
66  64  62  64  47 
73  66  64  62  46 
83  76  67  65:48 
79  7162  52  44 
90  86  73  64  56 
70  66  59  54'61 
73  72  66  60  43 

68  57  62  44  36 
68'62  6141| 
58  53  K)  43  36 
72t'>6  65  45  34 
82,78  70  62  86 
63:67  52  46  39 
62  67  60  44  40 


6460E6,62 
69  61  63i49 
72  67  64:60 
78|76,74!73 


72  60  68 
82180  7366 
83,78  66,53 


L/VTI- 
TUDE. 


Dg.Mln. 
37  48 
36  86 
34  24 
3^  04 
?*    02 


32 

41 

33 

16 

ilo 

31 

3T 

66 

40 

44 

38 

18 

38  30 

38  05 

31  03 
37  00 
41  40 
40  28 

32  43 
rg  06 
40  37 
29  67 

40  62 

31  47 
21  16 
19  23 

32  88 
61  29 
47  26 

41  60 
43  41 

43  17 

44  21 
iJO  47 


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68 
69 
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The  following  places  are  known  as  health  re- 
Borts.  and  each  has  attractive  and  valuable 
features  of  its  own:  Monterey,  Santa  Barbara, 
Ban  Bafoel,  Stockton,  VisaUa,  San  Diego,  Paso 
Robles,  San  Bernardino,  Ojai  Valley,  Santa 
Monica,  San  (Gabriel  Valley,  Eiverside,  Colton, 
San  Jose,  liike  County,  and  many  others  of 
more  or  less  prominence. 

The  writer  nas  no  reason  to  doubt  the  con- 
clusions of  another,  who  says,  "A  comparison 
of  the  meteorological  tables  shows  that  the 
noast  from  Monterey  to  Santa  Monica  has  a 
better  climate  for  consumptives  than  the  famous 
Biviera  or  Mediterranean  Ooast  near  Nice.  Nice 
is  not  BO  good  in  winter  and  very  much  worse 
in  summer.  Neither  Jacksonville  nor  St.  Augus- 
tine compares  with  Monterey  in  any  respect." 
The  salubrity  of  France,  the  bright  skies  of 
Greece  and  Italy,  are  not  equal  to  those  of 
Southern  California.  The  atmosphere  of  the 
whole  ooast  is  bo  invigorating,  that  all  literary 
men  are  agreed  that  nowhere  else  in  the  world 
can  a  person  perform  the  same  amouni  of  braiu 
work  in  so  short  a  time. 

As  the  climate  and  seasons  am  so  varied, 
ind  the  distance  that  modifies  the.a  so  short, 
the  invalid  may  travel  from  place  to  place  and 
easily  find  the  one  that  suits  him  best. 

Health  and  Pleasure  Mesorta  of  Cali- 
forma. 

The  editor  has  in  preparation  asep  jratework 
on  this  subject,  and  can  include  in  this  only 
brief  descriptions,  but  will  give  the  g-  eat  objects 
of  interests,  and  how  to  reach  tUem.  First, 
among  these  is 

The  YosenUte  Vallef/,  This  is  about  a  mile 
wide  and  six  miles  long,  and  lies  in  the  heart  of 
the  Sierras,  about  150  miles  nearly  du  ri  east  of 
San  Franciscv  The  name  is  the  Indian  for 
••grizzly  bear.""  Some  of  the  old  guides  spell 
it  •*  Yohemita. "  The  Indian  name  for  the  v(dley 
was  A  h-u/a h-Hee,  i.e.,vf  ide  canon.  The  general 
direction  is  from  East  to  West — at  right  angles 
to  the  axis  of  the  Sierras,  but  the  upper  portion 
of  the  valley  is  from  South  to  North.  There 
are  two  prominent  theories  as  to  its  formation. 
Prof.  Whitney  holds  that  of  subsidence,  but  Mi. 
John  Muir  and  others  established  that  oigltcial 
action,  according  to  the  mind  of  most  scholars. 
The  bottom  of  the  valley  is  4,060  feet  above 
sea-level,  and  the  rxca.  from  3,000  to  5,000  feet 
higher. 

The  Merced  river  flows  through,  and  its  waters 
pouring  over  the  rim  produce  the  many  mag- 
niflceut  falls,  and  leaving  the  valley  make  wild 
and  tremendous  cascades.  Entering  at  the  east, 
as  all  roads  do,  there  are  the  cascades  close  to 
the  Coultervillo  road,  and  beneath  the  Madera 
road.  On  the  Madera  road,  while  descending 
th«  rim,  one  reaches  fnstfiration  Pnitit,  com- 
rianduig  the  best  general  view  of  the  valley, 


impressing  the  beholder  with  wonder  and  awe, 
and  fixing  forever  the  relative  position  of  the 
prominent  points.  Next  farther  up  thevaUev, 
on  the  south  wall  is  ••  dridal  Veir  Fall.  Tfie 
first  leap  of  the  water  is  630  feet,  then  a  second 
of  300.  The  j)oetical  name  is  well  chosen;  the 
Indian  name  is  Po-ho-no,  a  current  of  wind. 
Opposite,  a  part  of  the  north  wall  is  called  El 
Capitan,  the  captain;  in  Tnfli(i.t^  Tu-toch-ah-nu- 
lah,  almost  vertical  and  3,300  feet  above  the 
valley— a  majestic  rock,  to  some  the  most  im- 
pressive object  in  the  valley. 

Farther  up,  and  on  the  south  wall  are  the 
Cathedral  Rocks,  2,500  feet  high,  with  the  Catht- 
dral  spires,  towering  gracefully  500  feet  higher. 
On  the  noith  side  are  the  "  Three  Brothers," 
called  by  the  Indians,  Pom-pom-pa-sa^,  i.  t., 
jumping  frogs,  and  Eafile  Point,  On  the  south 
side,  next  above,  is  Sentinel  Bock,  1,000  feet 
above  the  rest  of  the  rim,  and  one  of  the  most 
striking  features  of  the  valley.  The  Indian  name 
is  Lnyt,  called  from  a  plant  found  near  it,  ]ised 
for  food. 

Sentinel  Dome,  4,150  feet  high,  is  back  of 
Sentinel  Bock  and  back  of  Glacier  Point.  It  is 
a  beautiful  dome,  from  which  the  high  Sierras 
are  well  seen.  The  Indian  name  was  Ho-ko-o- 
•way,  i.  I.,  lizard,  from  a  dark  spot  in  the  rock 
like  the  ugly  animal  As  one  turns  anrl  faces 
the  south,  Vofemite  Falls,  1,500  feet,  then  600, 
then  400,  in  round  numbers,  the  precise  total 
being  2,634  feet.  As  one  turns  toward  the 
south,  the  massive  North  Dome  with  its  royal 
arches  are  on  the  left.  The  Indian  name  was 
Sho'ho-nee,  or  To-coy-ah,  named  from  the  cover- 
ing which  shades  the  face  of  the  papoose  in  the 
basket.  Across  the  valley  is  Union  Point,  and 
above  it,  but  further  south,  is  Glacier  Point, 
commanding  the  best  view  of  Yosemite,  Vernal 
and  Nevada  Falls. 

Passing  up,  the  opening  on  the  left  is  Tenaya 
Canon,  in  which  is  Mirror  Lake.  On  the  left  of 
the  main  valley,  and  on  the  right  of  Tenaya 
Canon,  as  you  go  up,  the  Half  Dome  or  South 
Domr,  5,100  feet  above  the  valley,  is  easily 
recognized.  Its  summit  commands  the  best 
view  of  the  valley,  and  Prof.  Whitney  thought 
human  foot  would  never  tread  it.  The  danng 
of  George  Anderson,  who  drilled  holes  for  iron 
spikes  and  scaled  the  top,  will  receive  the  bene- 
diction of  many  a  tourist;  and  away  up  the 
canon  on  the  south  side  of  it,  is  Cloud's  Best, 
6,460  feet,  the  highest  point  near  the  valley. 

On  up  the  valley,  on  the  left,'  is  the  Cap  of 
Libetty,  easily  recognized  by  its  outline.  Be- 
tween Glacier  Point  and  Vernal  FaU,  south  and 
west  of  the  Merced  Biver,  is  the  Valley  of  the 
Jlltlputtti',  or  Tu-tu-lu-we-ack.  Vernal  Falls, 
350  feet  high,  and  Nevada  Fallot  700  feet,  have 
the  largest  volume  of  water,  and  are  among  the 
grandest  of  their  kind.  Nevada,  the  Indione 
called  YO'Wi-vf,  twisting. 


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299 


T/te  Big  Tvees. 


There  is  occasionally  a  man  vrho  insists  on 
calling  them  WtlUngtonia,  but  all  botanists  and 
men  of  nearly  every  nation  give  them  their  Amer- 
ican name,  sfquota  giganteus.  The  ordinary 
red-wood  of  California  is  of  the  same  gctnus, 
and  called  sr^uoia  sempervirenst  and  attains  a 
diameter  of  sixteen  feet. 

The  ordinary  red-wood  is  not  found  in  the 
Sierras,  and  the  Big  Trees  proper  are  all  in  the 
Sierras.  The  largest  tree  yet  known  is  on 
King's  River,  40  miles  from  visalia,  and  forty- 
four  feet  in  diameter.  This  King's  River  grove, 
and  the  two  groves  on  the  north  and  south  forks 
of  the  Tule  River,  are  not  easily  accessible. 
The  gi'oves  accessible  to  tourists  are  the  north 
and  south  Calaveras,  Tuolumne,  Merced,  north 
and  south  Mariposa  and  the  north  and  south 
Fresno. 

Of  these  the  Calaveras  or  Mariposa  is  usually 
visited,  and  sometimes  both.  The  Tuolumne 
is  on  the  direct  Big  Oak  Flat  route  to  the  Yose- 
mito  Valley,  and  the  stage  drives  through  one 
of  the  standing  trees,  but  the  number  of  large 
trees  is  only  ten,  and  the  largest  only  twenty- 
four  feet  in  diameter.  The  Merced  group  is  on 
the  Coulterville  route  to  the  Yosemite,  but  the 
numl)er  of  trees  about  fifty,  and  the  size  com- 
paratively small. 

The  Fresno  Grove  is  in  two  groups,  a  mile 
apart,  with  aboiit  1,200  trees,  and  these  are  not 
excelled  in  size,  height  and  symmetry.  Tliis  grove 
is  ten  miles  distant  from  the  Madera  stage  road 
at  Fresno  TPJftts.  It  is  not  preserved  with  care, 
and  toTirists  ivfter  seeing  either  the  Mariposa  or 
Calaveras  trees  do  not  usually  care  to  visit  any 
others.  But  the  largest  tree  the  writer  found 
is  in  the  south  group  of  the  Fresno  Grove,  it 
being  96.5  feet  in  circumference  at  the  ^ound. 
It  is  round,  symmetrical,  free  from  blemish,  and 
the  noblest  specimen  to  be  soon  while  visiting 
the  Valley.  Prof.  Wliitney  says  the  average 
diameter  of  the  trees  in  the  Mariposa  Grove  ex- 
ceeds that  of  trees  in  the  Calaveras  Grove,  and 
the  tallest  tree  of  these  groves  is  in  the  latter. 
In  the  north  Fresno  group,  the  largest  tree  is 
near  the  cabin  of  John  A.  Nelder,  the  present 
owner  of  the  group.  It  is  eighty -seven  feet  in 
circumference  at  the  ground,  and  seventy-two 
and  a  half  /  /•/  ai  six  feet  from  the  ground. 

The  reijorted  size  of  the  trees  is  apt  to  vary 
in  all  the  groves,  with  every  string  that  passes 
around  the  trees.  One  includes  and  another 
leaves  out  ccrtiiu  enlargments  or  irregularities 
near  the  ground.  The  writer  has  measured  all 
the  largetrees  in  the  Calaveras  (north  and  south), 
the  Mariposa  and  the  Fresno  groves,  and  has 
followed  the  same  method  and  principles  in  all 
cases. 

The  Oalavenui  Groves  are  also  private  prop- 
arty,    six    miles   apart,   connected   by  a  trail 


through  a  wild  and  rugged  region,  abounding 
in  picturesque  and  magnificent  views.  Com- 
paratively few  tourists  go  farther  than  the  north 
Grove,  in  which  is  the  Big  Tree  Hrtel,  one  of  the 
most  charming  mountain  resorts  in  all  the  world. 
The  keeping  of  the  hotel  is  as  large  as  the  trees. 
The  grove  is  as  neat  as  a  garden,  and  to  one  who 
spends  his  vacation  at  the  excellent  hotel,  the 
trees  will  grow  larger  on  every  return  from  the 
trout  streams,  the  retreats  of  game  or  quiet 
rambles.  The  Calaveras  Grove  was  the  first 
discovered,  the  first  opened  to  tourists  and  has 
been  long  and  well  known.  In  both  this  and 
the  Mariposa  groves  are  prostrate  trunks,  one- 
sixth  larger  than  the  largest  living  trees.  In 
the  Calaveras  is  the  stump  of  the  monster  that 
was  felled  with  jiump  augers,  and  on  which 
four  cotillion  sets  have  danced  at  the  same  time. 
To  visit  the  south  Calaveras  gi-ove  requires  a 
day,  and  a  ride  on  horseback  from  the  hotel. 
The  south  grove  is  four  miles  long  and  one 
wide.  In  both  Calaveras  groves  the  trees  are 
beautiful,  surpassing  in  symmetry  and  perfec- 
tion Wx'izz,  of  the  Mariposa)  but  not  those  of  the 
Fresno  Grove, 


The  most  notable  trees  in  the  Calaveras  group 
arc: 

The  Father  of  the.  Foritst,  which  meosurea  435  feet  in 
length,  110  feet  in  circuinferemie. 

Mother  qf  the  Forest,— 'Ml  feet  high,  90  feet  in  circumfer- 
ence. 

Hercules 320feet  high,  95  feet  circumference. 

Hermit, 318  feet  liidh,  60  feet  cliciimference. 

Pride  of  the  Forest,  .  '.'7t>  feet  high,  60  feet  circumference. 
Tliree  Graces,  .  .  .  2'.ir>  feet  high,  92  feet  circumference. 
Hiigbaiiil  and  Wife,  .    2.VJ  feet  higli,  60  feet  circumference. 

Burnt  Tree ,130  feet  long,  97  feet  circumference, 

"  Old  Maid,"  "  Old  Bachelor,"  "  Siamese  Twins,"  "  Mother 
and  Sons,"  "Two  Guardians." 

In  llie  In  the 

Caluvf  niH  GroTe.    MaripoH  QroTt 

Numl>»T  Of  trees                               93  600 

Diameter  of  largest,                          3;i  feet.  33  feet. 
Circumference  of  largest  living  tree, 

six  feet  above  the  ground,  61  feet.  80  feet. 
No.  of  living  trees  between  80  and 

90  feet  in  circumference.                 0  1 

No.  between  70  and  80  feet,                0  6 

No.  between  60  and  70  feet,                1  2 

To  reach  the  hotel  at  the  Calaveras  Big  Trees 
requires  a  detour  of  fifty-nine  miles,  from  the 
Big  Oak  Flat  route  to  the  Yosemite. 

The  Mattposa  Gr,  t/^  is  of  national  importance. 
Itis  the  on/y  o"e  that  has  been  set  aside  as  a 
park  for  the  nation.  It  was  ceded  by  Congress 
to  the  State  of  California,  and  is  cared  for  by 
the  Commissioners  of  the  State.  Its  trees  are 
in  two  groups,  and  these  are  half  a  miie  apart. 
A  wagon-roacl  passes  through  both  of  these 
groups. 

The  most  notable  tree  in  the  Mariposa  Groves 
is  the  Grizzly  Gituit,  260  feet  high,  and  100  feet 
in  circumference.  At  a  height  of  100  feet  there 
is  a  limb,  more  than  six  feet  in  diameter.  The 
tops  of  the  Big  Trees  towering  above  their 
smaller  neighbors  have  been  broken  by  th«  wind 
and  snow,  but  this  one  has  suflfered  beyond  the 
rest.     Others  of  less  diameter  are  higher.    It 


300 


is  gnarled  at  the  base  as  if  its  struggles  had 
taken  root. 

Other  interesting  trees  are  "  The  Sentinels," 
"The  (eight)  Commissioners,"  "The  Diamond 
Oroup  "  of  four,  "  General  Grant "  and  "  Ulin- 
ois."     "Andy  Johnson"  succumbed   to    the 


winter  of  1880-1.     Many  of  the  trees  have  been 
named  and  re-named. 

The  hotel  at  the  Big  Tree  Station  is  five 
miles  from  the  grove,  with  trout-fishing  at  the 
very  door,  large  game  in  the  mountains  and 
every  attraction  to  the  lover  of  the  hills. 


How  to  Reach  the  Toseznite  Valley  and  Big  Tree  Groves. 


There  are  four  all-wagon  roads.  One  leaves 
the  railroad  at  Milton,  two  at  Merced,  and  one 
at  Madera.  The  first  element  to  be  taken  into 
consideration  is 

1.  Distarux. — This  is  as  follows  : 

Big  Oak  Flat  and  Calaveras  BxiVTK— Stage*. 

San  Francisco  to  Milton,  by  rail 133  miles. 

Milton  to  Murphy's,  fc.v  stage 30    " 

Murphv's  to  North  Calaveras  Grove,  and 

return  to  Murphy's 30    " 

Murphy's  to  Chinese  Camp  via  Sonoma. .     27     " 
Chinese  Camp  to  Black's  Hotel in    " 

Total  staging 147     " 

Milton  to  Black's  via  Chinese  Camp  di- 
rect      P8  miles. 

CODLTERVILLE   RoUTE. 

San  Francisco  to  Merced,  hy  rail 151  miles. 

Merced  to  Dudley's,  by  slaye 46    " 

Dudley's  to  Merced 42    " 

Total  staging 88    " 

Mariposa  Route. 

Merced  to  Mariposa  via  Iiulian  Gulch. ...     47  miles. 

Marippsa  to  Clark's 27     " 

Big  Tree  Station  to  Black's 23j  " 

Total  staging 92     " 

Madera  Roi'te. 

San  Francisco  to  Madera,  by  rail 173.5  miles. 

Madera  to  Fresno  Flat,  by  stage 35        " 

Fresno  Flat  to  Clark's 20       " 

Big  Tree  btation  to  Black's 23|     " 

Total  staging 79        " 

2.  Elecationg,  Grades,  and  Soad- Beds.— The 
bottom  of  the  Yosemite  Valley  iy  4000  feet  above 
sea-level,  and  the  roads  enter  it  by  descending 
the  wall  on  either  side.  Therefore,  the  road 
which  rises  least  above  the  bottom  of  the  valley  is 
most  desirable,  other  things  being  equal. 

The  greatest  elevation  of  the  Big  Oak 
Flat  route  is  the  summit  near  Tania- 
wtck  Flat 7040  feet. 


Goulterville  route,  near  Hazel  Green 6(TB5  ft 

Mariposa  route,  on  Chowchilla  Mountains  6750  " 
Madera  route,  on  Cbowchilla  Mountains.  4750  " 
Mariera  route,  summit  between  Big  Tree 
Station  and  the  Valley 6250  " 

The  low  elevation  of  the  Madera  route,  in 
connection  with  a  southern  exposure  nearly 
all  the  way  to  the  Valley,  makes  it  freer 
from  snow  in  both  spring  and  fall,  and 
less  tiresome  to  the  tourist.  It  may  be  pos- 
sible to  keep  this  route  open  nearly  all  the 
winter. 

The  grade*  vary  on  the  diflferent  roads,  the 
steepest  being  on  the  Big  Oak  Flat  route,  equal- 
ing 20  feet  to  the  100  feet,  and  the  steep  grades 
being  unbroken  for  miles  at  a  time. 

On  the  Coulterville  route,  the  steepest  grade  is 
near  Coulterville,  4  miles  in  length,  rising  in  places 
18  feet  to  the  100  feet.  Another  grade  of  five 
miles  in  length  rises  on  an  average  10  feet  to  the 
100  feet.  On  this  route  there  are  30  miles  of  up 
grade  between  Coulterville  and  the  Valley,  a.nd 
20  miles  of  down  grade. 

On  the  Mariposa  route  there  are  numerous  hills 
to  be  ascended  and  descended,  as  on  the  preced- 
ing routes.  The  steepest  grade  is  across  the 
Chowchilla  Mountains,  where  the  rise  is  17.5  feet 
to  the  100  feet. 

Between  Clark's  and  the  Valley,  the  Mariposa 
and  the  Madera  routes  are  the  same,  and  the 
maximum  grade  is  10.5  feet  to  the  100  feet.  On 
the  Madera  route  the  ma.\innim  grade  between 
Mader-\  and  Clark's  is  4  feet  to  the  100  feet. 
These  grades,  taken  in  connection  with  the  great- 
est elevation,  are  an  important  element  in  refc'r- 
ence  to  time,  for  on  steep  grades  the  time  must 
be  slow. 

The  road-bed  will  be  thought  bad  enough 
whichever  route  one  takes,  if  he  is  not  accustomed 
to  mountain  roads  ;  but  they  are  all  good,  con- 
sidering the  country  through  which  they  pass. 
In  general,  the  greater  the  elevations  the  more 
rocky  and  rough  the  road-bed. 

3.  Coacfien  and  Team*. — On  these,  and  in  some 
coaches  on  a  particular  seat,  may  depend  much 
of  the  comfort  of  the  passenger.  It  is  well, 
therefore,  to  see  a  photograph  of  the  coach,  and 
know  beforehand  whether  it  is  to  be  a  "mud- 
wagon, "  or  a  "  Concord  coach,  '•'  or  an  open 
"Kimball  wagon."      As  there  is  no  danger  of 


TBS  PsiCIFIC  TOmSlST. 


301 


rail,  the  open  Kimball  wagons  arc  to  bo  greatly 
prtferrc4.  They  arc  the  most  comfortable 
coaches  over  made,  and  obstruct  no  fine  view  for 
any  passenger.  In  these  every  passenger  has  a 
box-seat. 

The  teanu,  so  far  as  the  writer  has  observed, 
arc  all  good  ;  it  does  not  pay  to  have  any  others, 
and  they  who  understand  their  business  look  well 
to  this  point. 

4.  Hotels. — These  are  all  good.  Some  arc  ex- 
cellent— as  good  as  any  in  the  State.  Among 
these  are  the  El  Capitan  at  Merced,  Dudley's, 
Clark's,  Murphy's,  and  the  Calaveras  Big  Trees. 

The  Madera  route  has  an  unrivaled  advantage 
in  this,  that  a  tourist  can  take  a  palace  sleeping-car 
at  4  P.M.  in  San  Francisco,  and  be  undisturbed 
during  the  night,  the  car  being  placed  on  a  side 
track  on  arrival  at  Madera,  to  remain  until  morn- 
ing. Or,  returning  from  the  Valley,  one  may 
take  the  palace  sleeping-car  on  arrival  at  Madera, 
and  find  himself  undisturbed  imtil  he  nears 
Lathrop  for  breakfast  the  next  morning. 

5.  Scenery  en  routs. — On  every  route  it  is  beauti- 
ful. There  is  a  general  sameness  in  looking  over 
the  hills  and  taking  in  the  great  Ban  Joaquin 
Valley,  but  there  can  be  no  two  views  precisely 
alike. 

On  the  Big  Oak  Flat  route,  the  crossing  of  the 
Tuolumne,  after  ascending  and  desci-nding  a 
steep  mountain,  is  quite  picturesque.  On  the 
Coulterville  route  there  are  many  fine  views  of 
the  mountains,  and  there  is  also  Bower  Cave,  an 
immense  opening  in  limestone  rock,  into  which 
one  can  descend  by  ladder  and  then  pass  into 
another  and  larger  opening  about  a  hundred  feet 
aqnare,  in  one  comer  of  which  is  a  small  and 
beautiful  lake.  It  is  unique  and  interesting,  but 
seems  not  to  win  permaujut  and  general  interest 
in  the  midst  of  greater  wonders.  The  Coulter- 
ville route  descends  to  the  cafion  of  the  Merced 
before  reaching  the  Valley  jjroper,  and  passes  up 
along  the  rapids,  where  the  river  roars  and  nishes 
out  toward  the  plain.  This  is  especially  in- 
teresting, grand,  and  mighty  in  the  early  spring, 

The  Mariposa  and  Madera  routes  unite  at 
Clark's.  From  Merced  and  Madera  to  Clark's 
the  scenery  is  good  on  either  route.  Concerning 
the  route  from  Merced  via  Mariposa,  Prof. 
Whitney  says,  "  The  road  from  Bear  Valley  to 
Maripusa  passes  through  a  region  which  gives 
as  good  an  idea  as  any  in  the  State  of  equal  ex- 
tent can  of  the  peculiar  foot-hill  scenery  of  the 
Sierra  Nevada."  Substantially  this  another 
might  say  of  any  other  of  the  roads  into  the 
Valley.  The  road  from  Clark's  to  the  Valley 
passes  down  the  South  Fork  of  the  Merced,  and 
at  the  same  time  ascends  to  the  plateau  between 
this  fork  and  the  main  Merced,  where  the  scene 
is  continually  changing,  but  every  thing  is  wildly 
sublime.  Before  losing  sight  of  the  cafion  of 
the    Merced,  where  the  river  flows  through  it 


toward  the  San  Joaquin,  the  view  extends  to  the 
coast  mountains,  anu  on  going  up  and  into  the  Yo- 
semite,  the  rapids,  where  the  Merced  River  leaves 
the  Yosemito  Valley  and  rushes  through  the 
cj.fion,  are  seen  far  below.  But  the  glory  of  this 
route  is  the  scenery,  viewed  from  Inspiration 
Point.  It  is  the  best  general  view  of  the  Valley. 
From  this  point  the  Valley  was  first  seen  by  those 
in  pursuit  of  the  Indians  in  1851,  and  hero  the 
most  profound  emotions  have  arisen  and  the  most 
pregnant  words  ever  uttered  concerning  it  were 
conceived,  and  from  this  point  Hill,  Bierstiidt, 
and  others  have  painted  it.  If  this  view  is  not 
had  by  taking  th(  route  to  or  from  Clark's,  it 
should  be  had  at  the  expense  of  a  day,  for  it  is 
not  possible  to  have  any  thing  comparable  to  it 
on  any  road  entering  on  the  north  side,  as  the 
Big  Oak  Flat  and  Coulterville  enter.  The 
latter  is  near  the  bed  of  the  river,  and  too  low 
down  for  the  grand  scenic  effect  of  Inspiration 
Point,  and  both  it  and  the  Big  Oak  Flat  route 
enter  below  where  there  is  a  trend  in  the  wall, 
and  El  Capitan  projects  its  massive  form  and 
shuts  out  the  major  part  of  the  Valley  beyond. 
Entering  on  the  south  wall  from  Clark's,  the 
tourist  is  directed  across  the  lower  end  of  the 
Valley,  and  takes  in  more  of  it  than  any  other 
point  can  give.  Whoever  enters  the  Valley  will 
see  Inspiration  Point,  and  many  who  desire  to 
enter  by  one  road  and  return  by  another  will 
retrace  their  steps  to  Clark's,  preferring  to  get  the 
most  of  the  Valley  while  they  are  en  route  to  and 
from  it. 

6.  Time  required  in  Traveling. — The  route 
to  the  Valley  via  Milton  is  called  the  Big  Oak 
Flat,  or  Hutching's  Boute,  the  former  name 
from  a  local  point  on  the  road,  and  the  latter 
after  the  present  State  guardian  of  the  Valley, 
who  in  past  yearii  did  more  than  any  other  man 
to  make  its  attractions  known,  and  by  whose 
untiring  energy  the  stage  road  to  it  was  first 
opened.  It  is  one  of  four  routes  by  which 
the  valley  is  reached  without  horseback 
riding.  It  is  the  shortest  route  from  Stock- 
ton or  San  Francisco,  but  it  requires  more 
staging. 

By  this  route  the  tourist  leaving  San  Fran- 
cisco at  4  p.  M.  must  remain  over-night  at 
Stockton,  where  he  will  find  the  "Yosemite" 
and  other  good  hotels.  Leaving  Stockton  the 
next  morning  at  7:30,  by  the  Stockton  and  Cap- 

Seropolis  Bailroad  for  Milton,  he  wiU  take 
[attison  and  Garhmd's  stages  and  reach  Priest's 
the  same  evening,  and  Black's  the  next  evening 
at  6  p.  M. 

To  visit  the  Calaveras  Big  Trees  en  route  to 
the  Valley  will  require  a  stage  ride  of  145 
miles  and  two  more  days.  Leaving  Stockton 
in  the  morning  he  will  arrive  at  Murphy's  to 
spend  the  night,  and  the  next  day  can  reach 
the  grove  and  return  to  Murphy's,  and  the 


¥ 


m 


TMM  mi€IFW  wowmiST. 


third  evening  reach  Priest's  or  Oarrote,  and 
the  following  day  reach  the  valley. 

By  the  Ooulterville  route,  leaifing  San  Fran< 
Cisco  at  4  p.  Mm  and  reaching  Merced  at  10:50 
p.  M.,  the  night  is  spent  at  the  El  Oapitan 
Hotel,  and  with  an  eany  start  Dudley's  Banch 
is  reached  for  the  night,  and  Black's  the  next 
evening  at  6  o'clock. 

By  l£e  Mariposa  route,  an  early  start  from 
Meroed,  or  by  the  Madera  route,  an  early  start 


from  the  Palace  Oar  and  Madison  Hotel  will 
enable  one  to  reach  Big  Tree  station  for  the 
night,  and  Black's  at  noon  of  the  next  day.  Or, 
after  spending  the  night  at  Big  Tree  station, 
one  may  visit  the  Mariposa  Groves  and  reach 
Black's  the  same  evening. 

The  Madera  route  is  preferable,  because  o/ 
the  aleeping-car  time  and  visit  to  the  Mariposa 
Orove  of  Big  Trees. 


Expenses  to  the  Tosemite  Valley— The  Big  Trees* 


from  Lathrop  to 
Madera,  the  addi- 
Round-trip  ticket, 
Kouiid-trip  ticket, 


The  tourist  will  be  ftble  to  vary  these  in  many 
ways,  and  no  statement  can  be  more  than  an 
approximation,  unless  it  be  to  give  maximum 
rates.  These  are  as  follows  :  From  the  railroad 
to  the  valley  and  return,  945.00,  by  any  route. 
The  additional  stage  fare  to  include  the  Calav- 
eras Big  Trees  is  87.00,  but  the  extra  railroad 
fare,  after  leaving  tlie  main  line  to  San  Francisco 
is  only  94.00. 

To  visit  the  Mariposa  Grove  there  is  no  extra 
charge,  but  the  railroad  fare  will  be  15.75,  98.10, 
or  99.00  additional,  according  aii  Merced,  or 
Madera  is  made  the  point  of  dejarture.  By 
taking  a  round-trip  ticket 
Merced,  and  returning  vta 
tional  cost  will  be  98 10. 
Lathrop  to  Merced,  95.75. 
Lathrop  to  Madera,  99.00. 

Board  and  lodging  in  the  valley  are  93.00  per 
day. 

The  time  to  the  valley  from  San  Francisco, 
via  the  Big  Oak  Flat  Route,  is  two  days ;  and 
via  the  Calavaras  Grove  of  Big  Trees,  four  days ; 
and  via  Coulterville,  two  days ;  and  via  Mariposa 
or  Madera,  one  and  a  half  days. 

Saddle  Horsen  in  the  Valley. 

The  Board  of  Commissioners  in  charge  of 
the  valley  and  the  Mariposa  Big  Tree  Grove, 
have  estaolished  maximum  rates  as  follows : 

1.  From  any  hotel  in  the  Valley  to  Glacier  Point 

and    Sentiiiel    Dome    and     return   by    same 
route $.3.00 

2.  From  Valley  to  Glacier  Point,  Sentinel  Dome, 

Nevada  Fall  and  Snow's  (passing  the  night  at 

Snow's) $3,00 

8.  From  Valley  direct  to  Snow's  and  Nevada  Fall, 
passing  by  Vernal  Fall  and  returning  to  Valley 
same  day, $.3.00 

4.  From  Snow'?  to  Cloud's  Rest  and  back  to  Snow's, 

or  to  Valley  the  same  day $3.00 

5.  From  Valley  direct  to  Cloud's  Rest,  and  back  to 

Snow's $3.00 

6.  From  Valley  direct  to  Cloud's  Rest  and  back  to 

Valley  same  day $.5.00 

7.  From  Snow's  to  Valley, $  a  00 

8.  Frori  Valley  to  Upper  Yosemite    Fall,  Eagle 

Point  and  return $3.00 

9.  For  use  of  saddle  horses  on  the  level  of  the  Val- 

ley per  day, $2,60 


Carriages. 

(For  a  party  of  not  less  than  four  persons./ 

1.  To  Bridal  Veil  Fall  and  return,  each  person,  $1.00 

2.  To  Mirror  Lake  and  return,  each  person,. .  $1.00 

3.  To  the  Cascades,  passing  by  and  stopping  at  the 

Bridal  Veil  Fall,  each  person $.3.00 

4.  To  the  Cascades  and  return,  each  person, . .  $2.00 

5.  To  Bridal   Veil  and  Artist's    Point,  each  per- 

son   #2.00 

The  charge  for  guide  (including  ho^'se)  when 
furnished,  will  be  93.00  per  day.  The  above 
charges  do  not  cover  feed  for  the  horses  at 
Snow's,  nor  tolls  on  the  various  trails.  These 
latter  are  as  follows  : 

To  Glicier  Point,  each  person, $1 .00 

To  foot  of  Upper  Yosemite  Fall, $0.50 

From    foot    of    Upper    Yasemite    Fall    to    Kaglo 

Point, $0.50 

To  Nevada  Fall  (including  Vernal  Fall) $0.75 

To  Mirror  Lake  in  a  carnage, $0.50 

All  trails  in  the  valley  Were  purchased  by  the 
State  Commissioners  in  1882  and  are  now  free. 

Points  in  the    Valley  Moat  Attractive 
to  Tourists. 

1.  South  Dome,  I  each  of  these  includes  Vernal  and 

2.  Clouds  Rest,  J  Nevada  Falls. 

3.  Inspiration  Point. 

4.  Glacier  Point. 

5.  Sentinel  Dome. 

6.  Upper  Yosemite  Fall  and  Eagle  Point. 

7.  Mirror  I.Ake. 

8.  Bridal  Veil  Fall. 

9.  Lower  Yosemite  Fall. 
10.  £1  Capitan. 


Reference 
fact  that  £1 
the  entrance 
both  in  goin 
Dome  is  di~ 
to  climb  the 
in^  to  975 
points. 


is  had  in  the  above  order,  to  the 
Capitan  and  Bridal  Veil  Fall  are  at 
to  the  Valley  and  must  be  passed 
▼  in  and  coming  out.  The  South 
cult  of  access,  the  only  way  being 
rounded  side  of  the  Dome  by  hold- 
feet  of  rope  anchored  at  various 


Time   Usually  Required  for  the  Vari- 
ous Excursions. 

From  the  hotels  to  Upper  Yosemite  Falls  and 

return 4  hours. 

From  the  hotels  to  Upper  Yosemite  Falls  and 

Eagle  Point  and  return 6  hours. 


.   $1.00 

$0.50 

Kugle 

.  S0.50 

.   $0.75 

.   $0.50 

by  the 

free. 


rms  fPsiciFiG  romasr. 


303 


To  Bridal  Veil  Falls, 3  hours. 

To  Uridiil  Veil  Falls  and  Kl  Capitau, 4  hours. 

To  El  Capitan 3  hours. 

To  Mirror  Lake, 3  hours. 

To  Vernal  and  Nevada  Falls, 1  day. 

To  Mirror  T^ke,  and  Vernal  and  Nevada  Falls, .  1  day. 

To  Ijower  Yosemite  Falls 2^  hours. 

To  Mirror  Lake  and  Lower  Yosemite  Falls,.  ,\  a  day. 

To  Glacier  Point, ...  6  hours. 

To  Sentinel  Dome, 7  hours. 

To  Glacier  Point  and  Sentinel  l)ome 8  hours. 

To  Cloud's  Hestfrom  Snow's  Hotel  to  Nevada 

Falls 8  hours. 

To  South  Dome  from  Snow's, 4  hours. 

From  Snow's  to  Cloud's  Kest  and  South  Dome 

and  Imck  to  Snow's, 1  «lny. 

From  Snows  to  Cloud's  Rest,  or  to  South 

Dome  and  back  to  the  Valley — possible  in.  A  day. 
From   Valley  to  Inspiration  Point  and  back 

to  Hotel, 1  day. 

Head-waters  of  the  Sacramento 
and  Mount  Shasta, 

From  Redding  to  the  Black  Butte,  more  than 
80  miles,  the  stage-route  follows  the  general 
course  of  the  river,  leaving  it  occasionally  and 
crossing  it  five  times.  At  Redding  the  broad, 
fertile  Sacramento  Valley  ends,  and  the  foot- 
hills, with  numerous  little  valleys  between  them, 
begin.  The  stage  ride  from  Redding  north  is 
through  these,  and  then  across  the  mountains 
that  confine  the  waters  of  the  I'itt  and  McCloud 
rivers.  These  are  the  main  tributaries  of  the 
Upper  Sacramento.  The  Pitt  is  fed  by  the  eter- 
nal snows  of  Lassen's  Peak,  the  central  and  lofti- 
est figure  in  a  line  of  ancient  volcanoes,  and  the 
northern  extremity  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  range. 
The  McCloud  is  a  rapid  stream,  rushing  along 
at  from  ten  to  twenty  miles  an  hour,  with  high 
cafion  walls  on  «ither  side,  and  water  cold  as  ice 
and  clear  as  crystal.  It  bursts  from  the  ground 
in  a  great  volume,  and  is  probably  the  outlet  of 
Mud  Creek,  which  rises  from  a  glacier  on  the  east 
side  of  Mt.  Shasta  and  then  sinks  in  the  earth. 

Near  the  crossing  of  the  McCloud  is  the  United 
States  fish-hatching  establishment.  All  these 
rivers  abound  in  trout  and  salmon,  but  the  best 
place  on  them  for  trout-fishing  is  the  upper 
waters  of  the  McCloud.  The  valley  of  the  Sac- 
ramento grows  narrower  as  one  goes  northward, 
and  at  last  is  almost  a  cailon.  Just  beyond  Camp- 
bell's Soda  Springs,  69  miles  north  of  Redding, 
the  road  ascends  from  the  river  to  an  e.Ttensive 
moimtain  basin,  walled  in  by  yet  loftier  moun- 
tains— a  sort  of  semicircular  wall  from  Scott's 
Mountain  on  the  north  to  Trinity  on  the  west  and 
Castle  Rock  on  the  south-east.  On  the  east  side 
of  the  road,  and  in  this  great  basin,  Mt.  Shasta 
rears  its  lofty  head  into  the  dark,  deep  blue  of 
heaven. 

This  delightful  region  is  of  easy  access ;  and 


while  the  Yosemite  Valley  is  reckoned  the  most 
wonderful  attraction  of  nature  in  California,  it 
is  surpassed  in  many  respects  by  Mt.  Shasta. 
Shasta  has  an  elevation  of  14,444  feet,  according 
to  Professor  Whitney,  and  that  of  Mt.  Blanc  u 
but  15,739  feet.  Mt.  Whitney  is  the  only  moiui« 
tain  in  the  United  States  known  to  bo  higher — 
and  that  by  only  500  feet.  But  Mt.  Whitney  is 
fianked  by  numerous  other  mountains  nearly  oa 
high,  while  Shasta  rises  about  11,000  feet  above 
the  surrounding  country  on  every  side. 

Mt.  Whitney  and  Mt.  Lyell  have  glaciers  of 
feeble  vitality,  but  Shasta  has  three,  each  living 
and  accessible.  It  is  the  only  mountain  in  Amer- 
ica wIktc  glacial  jjhenomeua  may  be  corefully 
studied  witli  trifling  exertion. 

Mt.  Shanta  has  two  peaks,  one  called  the  Cra- 
ter Peak,  although  both  were  active  volcanoes  at 
a  former  day.  The  Crater  Peak,  Professor  Whit- 
ney said  in  18U5,  was  "  believed  by  many  to  be 
quite  inaccessible.  Its  sides  appear  to  be  covered 
with  loose  volcanic  materials,  probably  ashes, 
lying  at  the  highest  angle  possible  without  slid- 
ing down."  Now  it  is  frequently  climbed,  its 
sides  being  covered  D>ith  blocks  of  trachyte  of 
all  sizes,  which  have  broken  from  the  crater 
walls  above.  They  slip  down  and  retard  the 
climbing,  but  the  footing  is  secure  In  the  steepest 
places.  Only  a  few  feet  below  the  summit  on 
the  main  peak,  and  above  glaciers  and  ice-fields, 
there  are  springs  of  boiling  water  and  juts  of 
constantly  escaping  steum,  all  strongly  impreg- 
nated with  sulphur.  It  was  these  that  kept 
John  Muir  and  his  guide,  Jerome  ay,  from  per- 
ishing when  a  storm  overtook  them  on  the  sum- 
mit ond  compelled  them  to  spend  a  night  there. 
They  froze  on  one  side  and  roasted  on  the  other. 

The  panorama  from  the  summit  is  beyond  de- 
scription. The  view  takes  in  the  whole  of  Cal- 
ifornia from  the  Coast  Range  to  the  Sierra 
Neyadas,  and  from  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  far 
beyond  the  Oregon  boundary — not  less  than  450 
miles.  It  is  probably  unsurpassed  in  the  world. 
Once  the  writer  stood  upon  the  summit  in  July, 
and  there  lay  around  him  100  square  miles  of 
snow.  Often  rolling  masses  of  fleecy  clouds  shut 
out  all  below,  and  one  is  left  as  in  the  very  cham- 
ber of  heaven.  As  one  climbs  the  mountain  he 
will  hear  the  water  gurgling  through  the  loose 
rocks,  fed  by  the  melting  shows,  but  no  stream 
flows  duectly  from  the  Butte.  A  journey  of  100 
miles  around  the  cone  may  be  made  without 
crossing  a  stream  or  finding  a  spring. 

The  ascent  of  Shasta  is  full  of  interest  to  every 
lover  of  nature.  Tlie  flora  is  remarkable,  and  has 
attracted  to  it  in  person  such  eminent  scientists 
as  Sir  Joseph  Hooker  and  Asa  Gray.  The  ascent  of 
the  mountain  is  always  made  from  Sisson's,  a 
charming  hotel  in  Strawberry  Valley,  Siskiyou 
County,  California,  one  of  the  best  and  cheapest 
peaces  of  resort  in  the  State.     Horses,  guides. 


ji 


i 


804 


TMM  P^CiWMC  TOM^iST. 


blankutH,  nnd  provisions  nro  fumishod.  If  there 
are  three  in  the  party  the  cent  will  ho  flff  each, 
and  $20  if  only  one.  Tho  trip  requires  80  hours. 
The  first  n\f(\\t  is  spent  camping  at  the  upper 
edge  of  the  pinu»  fexiUa  and  the  lower  edge  of 
the  snow,  at  an  elevation  of  about  10,000  feet.  La- 
dies ha\e  occasionally  made  the  ascent,  and  any 
strong  able-bodied  man  or  woman  can  do  so.  It 
is  difficult,  but  not  dangerous. 

Mr.  Sisson  l)as  erected  a  house  on  the  sum- 
mit  of  the  mountain,  in  whicli  tourists  may 
spend  the  night. 

Besides  Mt.  Shasta  there  are  hundreds  of  inter- 
esting places  to  visit  or  to  see.  The  Black  Butte, 
called  the  Black  Cone  by  the  Geological  Survey, 
is  a  sugar-loaf  mass  of  trachyte  more  than  6000 
feet  above  the  sea,  with  an  outline  in  the  horizon 
as  regular  as  it  would  seem  an  axe  could  hew  it. 
It  is  in  striking  contrast  with  the  deep  blife  azure 
and  the  bright  green  of  Strawberry  Valley. 

Castle  Rock — seen  from  the  stage-nmd — is  a 
wonderful  uplift  of  granite,  perhaps  srrpassing 
every  thing  of  the  kind  outside  of  yosemite 
Valley,  and  strongly  resembling  the  Sentinel 
Dome. 

Castle  Lake,  Picayune  Lake,  the  Big  Spring, 
**  The  Falls"  on  the  banks  of  the  Sacramento 
River,  and  the  Falls  of  the  McCloud  River  are  all 
sources  of  surpassing  interest.  No  region  of 
California  is  so  varied  in  its  attractions.  Yo»em- 
ite  in  a  place  to  see,  Mt.  Shasta  i»  a  place  to 
ttaji. 

The  hunting  and  fishing  are  unsurpassed  in 
California.  The  waters  are  filled  with  trout  and 
salmon.  On  the  McCloud  River  the  trout  weigh 
from  half  a  pound  to  three  pounds,  and  the  Imbi 
Varden  species,  with  bright  red  spots  on  the  side, 
'weigh  from  one  pound  to  twelve  pounds.  The 
McCloud  is  a  glacial  stream,  and  the  Dolly  Var- 
dens  are  found  only  in  such.  Castle  Lake  and 
this  river  are  the  best  trout  and  salmon  fly-fishing 
places  in  the  State. 

The  hunting  is  no  less  attractive  than  the  fish- 
ing. Grizzly  bears  are  not  found  in  the  region, 
but  the  black,  the  brown,  and  the  cinnamon  are 
numerous.  The  puma  or  cougar  is  sometimes 
found,  and  the  lynx  and  two  ."^ther  species  of 
wild-cats. 

Deer  are  so  numeroms  that  a  crack  shot  need 
have  no  difficulty  in  bringing  down  at  least  one 
every  day.  There  are  three  varieties,  the  mule, 
black-tailed,  and  white-tailed.  Grouse,  mountain- 
quail,  and  squirrels  are  numerous,  and  mountain 
sheep  and  antelope  are  found  at  no  great  distance. 
Parties  provided  with  guns  can  be  fitted  out  for 
hunting  elk,  antelope,  deer,  or  mountain-bheep 
in  Oregon,  and  provided  with  competent  guides 
by  Sisson.  The  region  is  full  of  mineral  springs, 
there  being  several  m  the  vicinity  of  Sisson 's,  and 
one  of  the  best  at  Campbell's — formerly  Fry's — on 
the  stage-road,  8  miles  south  of  Sisson's.    The  wa- 


ter is  ice  cold,  strongly  effervescent,  and  charged 
with  soda,  iron,  and  salt.  Campbell's  liotel 
is  excellent.  Parties  are  fitted  out  for  fishing  in 
either  the  McCloud  River  or  Castle  Lake  at  both 
Campbell's  and  Sisson's,  and  at  both  places 
guides  oro  to  be  had.  Board  is  $10  a  week  at 
both  places,  saildle-horses  92  a  day,  and  guides 
with  horse,  85  a  day. 

Those  who  desire  a  more  detailed  account  of 
this  wonderful  region  should  consult  Clarence 
King's  "Mountaineering  in  the  High  Sierras," 
or  "  Calif ornian  Pictures,  by  Benjamin  Parke 
Avery. " 

Mt.  Shasta  is  reached  from  Sacramento  by 
the  Oregon  Division  of  the  Central  Pacific 
Bailroad  to  its  terminus  at  Bedding;  thence  by 
tho  California  and  Oregon  Stage  Line,  sixty- 
nine  miles  to  Campbell's  Soda  Springs,  and 
seventy-seven  miles  to  Sisson's,  both  of  these 
points  being  on  the  direct  overland  stage  route 
from  California  to  Oregon. 

Excursion  tickets,  good  for  thirty  days,  at,- 
sold  from  San  Francisco  to  Campbell's  or  Sis- 
son's for  935.40. 

The  Oeysera. 

Tourists  will  find  the  trip  to  the  Geysers  the 
most  interesting  and  easy  of  all  the  short  v. 
cursions  in  the  State.  It  is  well  to  go  by  uno 
route  and  return  via  another.  The  North 
Paoiflo  Bailroad  will  convey  the  passengers  to 
Cloverdale,  where  stages  oxe  taken.  The  ride 
to  the  Oeysers  is  over  a  splendid  road  amid 
beautiful  mountain  scenery,  and  occasionally 
tliere  are  examples  of  mie  driving  of  the 
stage-teams.  One  day  at  the  (leysers  is  usually 
enough,  and  the  visitor  will  find  it  absolutely 
necessary  to  rise  as  early  as  .')  or  6  a.  m.,  to  see 
the   finest  display  of  steam  from  the  Geysers. 

The  ground  literally  boils  and  bubbles  under 
the  feet.  There  are  devil's  inkstands,  and  cal- 
drons, and  tej^kettles,  and  whistles  enough  to 
overwhelm  eyes,  ears,  smell,  taste  and  touch  with 
horrid  reminiscences.  Yet  so  great  is  the  curios- 
ity it  should  not  be  missed.  Neither  must  the 
traveler  omit  the  enjoyment  of  the  natural 
steam  bath,  the  sensation  on  emerging  from 
which  is  most  delicious.  From  the  Geysers  to 
Calistoga,  the  celebrated  Foss  drives  a  crack 
stage,  and  usually  has  his  spanking  team  of  six- 
in-hand.  Reports  are  strong  as  to  his  fearless 
driving,  but  a  glance  at  the  way  he  beautifully 
manages  his  lesiders  and  wheelers,  gives  no  one  any 
anxiety  as  to  safety.  The  stage  route  is  over 
very  great  heights,  up  the  side  of  long  mount- 
ains, from  the  summits  of  which  the  views  are 
glorious,  probably  to  many,  more  enjoyable  than 
the  Geysers. 

The  tourist  must  not  fail,  as  he  returns  to  San 
Francisco,  to  visit  ♦he  Petiofied  Forest,  where 
numerous  petrified  trees  imbedded  in  the  earth 
have  been  recovered.      Some  of  these  were 


TMM  F^€iFia  TQcmisr. 


806 


giants  of  the  forost,  and  some  wore  turned  to 
charcoal  bcfuro  iMunp;  chonaod  to  Htono. 

There  aro  two  routes  to  tlio  OoywirH,  one,  tho 
Galifomia  Focitio  Kailroa<^l  va  NapaVolloy;  tho 
other,  via  the  North  PociAo  Railroad  and  Buh- 
sian  Kiver  Valley,  ff outlet  trip  ticket,  to  return 
liy  Hume  route,  913.00;  to  return  by  different 
route,  810.00. 

Fobs'  Stage  Line  from  the  (Jeysers  to  CaliH- 
toga  separates  at  Foss  Station,  and  paHaengcrH 
for  the  Petrified  Trees  raaka  a  detour  to  these 
without  losing  a  train  to  the  city. 

Ijoke  County  and  Mineral  Springa. 

Lake  County  is  accessible  from  either  GoliH- 
toga  or  Cl'overdale,  by  a  stoge-rido  of  about 
twenty  miles,  and  is  literally  full  of  health  and 
pleasure  resorts,  including  manv  rxoU}d  mineral 
springs,  Iteautiful  scenery  and  plenty  of  fish  and 
game.  Clear  Ijake  is  about  twenty  miles  long, 
and  eight  wide.  Its  immediate  surrouncixngs 
are  much  lower  than  Tahoe.  On  the  lake  ore 
fomous  soda  and  borax  deposits,  sulphur  banks 
and  quicksilver  mines.  At  the  lower  end  of  tho 
lake  is  So/ta  Water  J  ly,  where  an  immenao 
Yolnme  of  soda  water  is  pushed  above  the  sur- 
face of  the  lake.  The  hotel  is  a  lovely  retreat, 
with  baths  of  natural  soda  water,  and  other 
first-class  accommodn    >ns. 

Bassett'D,  in  Cobb  V  ^y,  the  hotels  in  Lake- 
port,  the  chief  town  on  the  lake,  and  Graham's, 
on  the  "Blue  Lakes,"  two  twin  gems,  about 
twelve  miles  fi'om  Lakeport,  are  noted  pleasure 
resorts.  Among  the  mineral  springs,  are  JJar- 
iin's,  Andersons,  Adams', Highland, Pierson^s, 
water's,  ZiegUr's,  Howard's,  Bartlett's,  Allen's 
and  Hough's.  At  all  of  these,  remarkable  cures 
have  been  effected.  Five  hundred  have  been  at 
Bartlett's  at  one  time.  Harbin 's  is  quite  popular. 
Witter's  is  located  amid  charming  views.  Via 
Colistoga  is  the  most  direct  route  to  Harbin's, 
Anderson's  and  Bossett's  and  Adams',  and  via 
Davisville  and  "Williams  (Northern  Rail  way),  the 
most  direct  to  Bartlett's,  Allen's,  Houjfh  s,  and 
via  Cloverdale  to  the  other  points. 

The  White  Sulphur,  long  the  most  foshionable 
mineral  springs  in  the  State,  are  near  St.  Helena 
on  the  Calif  omia  Pacific  Railroad.  On  the  same 
route  are  the  Calistoga,  «'Mud,"  "Soup,"  Hot 
and  Cold  Springs,  and  the  much  used  Napr. 
Natural  Soda  Spring,  the  Vallejo  Sulphu. 
Spring.  Skagg's  Spnngs,  near  Geyserville  on 
the  North  Pacific  Railroad,  have  beautii>U  sur 
roundings.  The  hotel,  Litton  Springs,  on  the 
same  railroad,  is  converted  into  a  boarding- 
school.  South  of  San  Francisco,  to  be  reached 
by  tho  Northern  Division  of  the  Southern  Pacific 
Railroad,  are  Congress  Springs,  near  San  Jose, 
Oilroy  Hot  Springs,  Paraiso  Springs,  near 
Soledod,  and  near  San  Luis  Obispo,  tiie  Paso 
Robles,  Mud  and  other  springs,  the  most  noted 


ill  tho  State.  On  tho  Central  Faoiflo,  near  the 
summit,  are  the  charming  Summit  Soda  Springs, 
one  of  tho  inoHt  refreshing  mountain  retreats  on 
the  coast.  Near  Mission,  San  Jose,  are  the  cele- 
brated Warm  Springs,  the  property  of  Governor 
Stanford,  and  not  now  ononod  to  the  public. 

Tho  following  iH  an  analysis  of  the  waters  most 
used.  onAiNs 


NAPA  flODA. 


Htcarbonnto  Soda, 
CHrboiiiiU)  Magnesia, 
Uitrboiiati)  Lliiiu,  .  . 
Clilorldt)  Sotliiiin,  ,  , 
SubCarlMin  In>n,  .  . 
SiilplmU)  Scxia,  .  .  , 
SilidoaM  Acid,  .  .  . 
Alinnliia, 

yjoM 


IN  A 

OALUIX. 
IXI'2 
'H\.\2 
lO.HH 


ft'JO 
7.H» 
1.84 
O.ftH 
O.O) 
2A» 


ORAINI 
LITTON  BRLTZBR.       IN  A 

aALIX>N. 

Carbo'io  Add  (oomb.),     42.76 
Clilorine 78.38 


Sulphate  Aold,  .    .    .  2.38 

Silli'io  Auld 2.03 

Oxide  Iron 3.8S 

Mine, 4.41 

IMacnea*, 6.M 

68.7U  So«ia 63.19 

PACIPIO  CONnitEBS. 


Cliloriile  Sotllum, .  . 

SiilpliaU  S(xl»,  .    ,  . 

Carbonate  SnUa,    .  . 

"           Iron,    .  . 

"  Lime,  .  . 
Silica  Alumina  and 
trace  Magne;iia, 


Alumina, 

119.150  Ammonia, 

12.1*1  f  PW*'' 
,23-5,iUlbl>4 

I'    If)  BoiHuio  Acid. 

17.^^  UfKauio  matter, 

40.8821 


3T.» 


22T.W 


33.V857i 

The  quantity  of  free  carbonic  acid  in  the  Lit- 
ton Seltzer,  which  escapes  on  standing,  is  883.76 
grains  per  gallon.  This  large  quantity  of  gaui 
is  very  pleasant  to  the  taste,  and  testa  severely 
the  strength  of  bottles,  which  sometimes  explode 
even  in  a  cool  place. 

The  Paso  Roble  Springs  (the  name  means 
Pass  of  Oak.s)  most  used,  have  been  analyzed 
with  the  following  result : 

MAIN  HUT  DULPUirR  SPBINO.       MOD  SPRrNO. 

Temperature  1  in,  122  degree*. 
One  iin|ierlal  KAlInn  (*on- 

talnn.  Sulphurated  Uy- 

droseii  Oas 4.65  3.28  inchai. 

Free  Cdrbonlc  Acid,     .    .  Ki.fiO  47.84       " 

Sulphitte  Lime :i.21  17.90  gnlna. 

Sulphate  Potasb,     ...      68  tmcen. 

Sulphate  Soda,    ....    7.85  41.11 

Perox  Iron 36 

Alumina, 22 

Sllioia 44  l.U 

Bicarbonate  Magneoin,    .      92  Carbon.  Mag.,  3.10 
Bicarbonate  soda,    .    .    .  S0.74  Carbon.  Soda,  5.21 

Clilorile  .Sodium.     .    .    .  LT.IS  06.48 
li.-Ul'e  and  Bromide  tracV. 

Urganlo  Matter 64  Ml 

Total  solid  contents,    .  93.44  168.38 

The  Mud  Spring  contains  also  alumina  and 
protoxide  of  iron.  There  are  also  three  cold  sul- 
phur springs  and  three  other  hot  springs,  the  hot- 
test of  the  temperature  of  140  degrees.  There  is, 
also,  a  chalybeate  spring.  Paso  Robles  is  re- 
sorted to  with  good  results  by  persons  suffering 
from  rheumatism,  cutaneous  diseases,  and  some 
constitutional  disorders.  They  are  no  place  for 
consumptives. 

Near  San  Bernardino  are  the  Arrowhead, 
near  Riverside,  the  Temescol  Warm,  and  near 
Suita  Barbara,  the  Santa  BarbaraWarm  Springs, 
besides  many  others  in  different  jtarts  of  ue 
State. 


"^ 


l!.ii 


806 


TME    'P^mFW   WOW^MT. 


■V- 


SEASIDE  BESOBTS. 

Santa  Cruz. — One  of  the  most  enjoyable  of 
seaside  resorts,  and  abounding  in  garden  bloom 
•nd  floral  beauty,  is  now  reached  by  three 
Toutea  of  travel,  by  steamer  from  San  Francisco, 
usually  tidying  a  few  hours  or  a  day  at  utmost; 
by  The  Southern  Pacific  Ka'lroad  to  Pojaro,  and 
its  branch  to  Santa  Cruz,  and  lastly  by  the  new 
South  Pacific  Coast  Narrow  Gauge  Railroad  via 
San  Jose  and  over  the  Coast  Bange  of  Moun- 
teins.  The  last  named  is  a  new  road  of  exceed- 
ing beauty.  Probably  there  is  no  finer  ride  of 
a  day's  length  equal  to  this. 

Santa  Barbara — is  beyond  question,  a  g:em 
city  of  the  Facifio  Coast  as  a  resort  for  tourists 
and  invalids.  It  may  be  reached  by  the  Southern 
Paoifio  BaUroad  and  a  stage  ride  of  one  day,  or 
by  steamer  of  two  days.  It  is  a  city  of  most 
attractive  nature  embowered  among  gardens, 
fruit  trees,  flowers,  and  wonderful  luxurianca 
of  semi-tropical  vegetation  and  cultured  people. 
This  place  is  full  of  admirable  conveniences  of 
hotel  life,  and  invali  ^s  and  tourists  reside  the 
veor,  in  enjoyment  of  its  balmy  air.  For  a 
fiome  residence,  probably  no  place  on  the  Pacific 
Coast  is  its  equal  in  all  advantages  of  climate, 
health  and  social  privileges.  In  the  spring-time, 
when  the  country  is  in  bloom,  the  finest  route 
is  by  stage  from  Soledad.  The  country  is  then 
a  paradise  of  floral  lovelmess  the  entire  distance. 

Half  Moon  Bay,  on  the  coast  fourteen  miles 
south  of  the  Golden  Gate;  Pescadero,  about 
forty  miles  from  the  city,  and  Sequel  and  Aptos, 
on  Monterey  Bay,  are  all  patronized  for  bath- 
ing, and  San  Diego  has  been  celebrated  from 
the  earliest  days  for  its  equable  climate  and 
natural  advant^es. 

Monterey, 

Of  all  the  sea-side  resorts  this  is  the  most 
charming,  delightfully  situated,  125  mUes 
from  San  Francisco,  on  the  Bay  of  Monte- 
rev,  which  is  28  miles  wide.  This  historic 
spot  was  reached  in  December,  1601,  and  posses- 
sion taken  m  the  name  of  the  King  cf  Spain,  and 
named  after  Caspar  de  Zuniga,  Count  of  Mon- 
terey and  Viceroy  of  Mexico  at  the  time. 

In  the  fall  of  1769  Caspar  de  Portala,  governor 
of  Lower  California,  came  overland  from  San 
Diego  with  two  priests  and  63  soldiers  and  erected 
PartaLa'a  Cross  (immortalized  by  Bret  llarte),  in 
the  vicinity.  In  June,  1770,  Father  Junipero 
Serra,  a  Franciscan,  erected  rvnother  cross  und 

i'oined  in  hoisting  the  royal  standard  of  Spam, 
t  was  one  of  the  most  flourishing  places  on  the 
coast  from  that  l^me  until  alter  California  be- 
came a  state  in  the  Union. 

The  stars  and  stripes  were  hoisted  by  Commo- 
dore Sloat  July  7,  1846,  and  Monterey,  long  the 
capital  of  the  Spanish  and  Mexican  province, 
was  the  capital  of  the  new  state.  With  the  re- 
moval of  the  capital  to  San  Jose  it  entered  on  a 


Bip  Van  Winkle  sleev,  which  continued  until 
but  recently. 

A  few  yeai's  ago  the  Pacific  Grove  Betreat  was 
formed,  designed  primarily  to  furnish  a  cheap 
and  attractive  summer  resort  for  ministers  of  all 
denominations  and  their  families,  with  all  the 
advantages  of  seabathing.  But  the  new  Hotel 
del  Monte,  built  in  modem  Gothic  or  Eastlako 
stj^ie,  is  the  finest  on  the  Pacific  Coast  outside 
of  San  Francisco,  and  the  finest  sea-side  hotel 
in  the  world,  and  its  throng  of  visitors  has 
given  a  new  life  to  the  place.  This  hotel  accom- 
modates, in  first-class  style,  400  guests,  and  has 
all  modem  conveniences  and  appliances.  It  is 
385  by  115  feet,  and  three  stories  high — one  an 
attic  story.  The  house  is  elegaii+ly  furnished, 
and  the  grounds,  consisting  of  !()<>  acres,  are 
entirely  closed,  and  beautifully  wooded  with 
pine,  oak,  cedar,  cvpress,  English  walnut,  etc. 

A  swimming-bath  alone  has  been  erected  at  a 
cost  of  $30,000,  and  in  the  transformation  of  the 
anci  nt  but  dead  capital  to  the  chief  resort  of 
the  coast,  not  less  than  half  a  million  dollars 
have  been  expended. 

The  climate  is  unsurpassed,  as  may  be  seen 
in  the  comparison  of  statistics  in  the  ••  Hints 
to  Invalids,  and  Climate,"  on  page  293. 

The  sea  bathini^  is  the  best  on  the  coast  north 
of  Point  Conception,  the  beach  being  especially 
favorable.  Mr.  W.  H.  Dailey,  the  champion 
swimmer  of  the  Pacific  Coast,  who  knows  all 
the  beaches  from  San  Francisco  to  Santa  Monica, 
wrote  December  15,  1879:  "  i  find  it  an  easy, 
sloping  beach  of  fine  sand;  no  gravel,  no  stones 
anywhere  below  high-water  mark.  I  consider 
the  beach  here  the  finest  on  the  Pacific  Coast. 
1  was  in  the  water  an  hour  yesterday,  and  found 
it,  even  at  this  time  of  the  year,  none  too  cold 
for  enjoyable  bathing. "  There  are  also  hot  and 
cold  salt-water  baths,  in  a  bathing-house  on  the 
beach. 

Monterey  is  reached  by  ocean  steamers,  5"'! 
also  by  the  Southern  Pacific  Boilroad,  Northern 
Division.  An  afternoon  express  train,  with  par- 
lor cars,  makes  the  run  from  San  Francisco  in 
four  hours,  and  returns  in  the  morning.  The 
fare  for  the  round  trip  is  only  85.00. 

Other  Health  and  Pleasure'  Besorts  are  justly 
celebrated,  such  as  Duncan's  Mills,  the  terminus 
of  the  North  Pacific  Coast  Bailroad  on  Bussiau 
Biver,  at  the  mouth  of  Austin  Creek,  and  three 
miles  from  the  ocean.  This  is  a  choice  place 
for  hunting,  and  it  has  at  times  good  salmon 
and  trout-fishing. 

Los  Angeles,  Anaheim,  Orange,  Wilmington, 
and  the  noted  San  Gabriel  Valley  are  preferred 
by  consumptives  to  Florida.  These  are  all  on 
or  near  the  Southern  Pacific  Overland  route. 

I^ke  Tahoe,  Donncr  Lake  and  Weber  Lak(> 
near  the  C.  P.  Overland  route  will,  of  course, 
not  Ije  forgotten. 

In  the  town  are  many  objects  of  interest,  such 


ffi^l 


mv 


aed  until 

atreatwas 
1  a  cheap 
ters  of  all 
h  aU  tho 
lew  Hotel 
:  Eastlako 
st  outside 
side  hotel 
sitoTS  has 
tel  accom- 
;s,  and  has 
ces.     It  is 
1 — one  an 
furnished, 
acres,  are 
aded  with 
il!\ut,  etc. 
rected  at  a 
Aion  of  tho 
f  resort  of 
ion  dollars 


S'MM  ^^€IWW  rOW^i&F. 


307 


be  seen 
«'  Hints 


he 

93. 

coast  north 

;  especially 

1  champion 

knows  all 
ita  Monica, 
it  an  easy, 
1,  no  stones 

I  consider 
eiflc  Coast. 
,  and  found 
le  too  cold 
also  hot  and 
ouse  on  the 

eainers,  2"'l 
d,  Northern 
n,  with  par- 
'rancisco  in 
ruing.  Tho 
I. 

ts  are  justly 
he  terminus 
on  Rtissittu 
k,  and  three 
ihoice  place 
ood  Balmon 

iVilmingtoB , 
re  preferred 
0  are  all  on 
md  route. 
Weber  Lake 
,,  of  course, 

aterest,  such 


M  the  Gatholio  church,  built  1794,  with  old 
paintings  of  much  merit;  the  old  block-house 
and  fort;  the  Cuartel,  on  California  Street;  Cot- 
ton  Hall;  the  old  custom-house,  etc. ;  the  light- 
house on  Point  Pinos,  three  miles  west  of  the 
town,  with  a  Fresnel  light  of  the  third  order; 
the  Moss  Beach;  Seal  Bocks;  Cypress  Point 
and  Carmel  Mission. 

The  last  is  four  miles  south  of  Monterey,  on 
Carmel  Creek,  a  beautiful,  picturesque  spot.  It 
was  founded  by  Father  Junipero  Serra,  June  3, 
1770.  In  1825,  the  Mission  had  90,000  cattle, 
50,000  sheep,  2,000  horses,  2,000  calves,  370  yoke 
of  oxen,  $50,000  in  merchandise  and  ^0,000  in 
Bilver — all  of  which,  ten  years  later,  was  con- 
verted to  secular  uses  by  decree  of  the  Mexican 
Gk>Vv:mment.  The  old  ruins  if  the  church  are 
fall  of  interest,  and  in  the  yard  near  it  lie  the 
remains  of  fifteen  governors  of  the  province  and 
State,  as  well  as  the  tomb  of  Junipero  Sen-a. 

Seven  thousand  acres  of  land  owned  by  the 
company,  an  excellent  race-track,  and  fifty 
miles  of  graveled  roada  afford  fine  drives  and 
hunting  and  fishing  that  cannot  be  excelled. 

The  table  of  temperature  of  Monterey  was 
kept  in  1874  by  Dr.  E.  K.  Abbot,  a  correspon- 
dent of  the  United  States  Signal  Service;  that 
for  San  Francisco  by  many  parties,  and  is  a 
mean  of  three  years ;  Los  Angeles  by  W.  H.  Broed- 
rick  (for  1871),  who  took  observations  four  times 
%  day  for  seven  yea;  j.     The  Santa  Barbara 


record  is  for  1869,  and  was  kept  by  officers  of 
the  Coast  Survey.  The  Santa  Monica  record  is 
for  1846,  and  was  kept  by  Dr.  W.  S.  King,  of 
the  army,  in  1853.  The  Fort  Yuma  record  was 
kept  by  officers  of  the  army  in  1851.  All  others 
are  taken  from  notes  of  travelers  or  from  books 
written  always  from  standpoints  friendly  to 
the  respective  places,  and  sometimes  by  en- 
thusiasts. 

The  following  carefully-prepared  table  presents 
the  mean  teniperatuie  of  Monterey  and  many  other 
health-resorts  and  places  throughout  the  world. 


Pl.v<e. 

- 

Jan, 

July. 

Diir^ 

Degs. 

Latitute. 

HiiM| 

Degs 

Degs. 

Degs.  Mln. 

pfW 

Monterey, 

6iJ 

6« 

6 

36       36 

¥ 

San  Francisco,    , 

49 

67 

8 

37       48 

li 

Los  Angeles,  .    , 

65 

67 

12 

31        04 

i^fl 

Sunta  Barbara,  . 

5G 

66 

10 

34        24 

San  Ulego,      .    . 

6T 

66 

8 

32        41 

pi 

Santa   Monica, 

S8 

66 

7 

»4       00 

Sacramento,  . 

4S 

73 

28 

38        34 

Stockton,    .    . 

49 

72 

23 

37        56 

P'*"''S 

Vallejo,  .    .    . 
Fort  Yuma,    . 

48 

67 

19 

38        00 

^lii^^p 

fi6 

92 

36 

32       43 

iiiiiiiiw 

Cincinnati, 

30 

74 

44 

39       06 

m^^i 

New  York,      . 

31 

77 

46 

40        37 

fi^^H 

New  Orleans, . 

66 

82 

27 

29        67 

l^^^B 

Naples,  .    .    , 

46 

70 

30 

40       62 

^^^1 

Honolulu,  .    . 

71 

77 

6 

21        16 

i^^^H 

Funchal,     .    . 

60 

70 

10 

32       38 

l^^^l 

Mentone,    .    . 

40 

73 

.33 

43        71 

^^^H 

Qenoa,    .    .    . 

46 

77 

31 

44        24 

I^^^H 

City  of  Mexico, 

62 

63 

11 

19        26 

H^^H 

JacksonTlUe. 

68 

80 

22 

30        60 

i^^^H 

St.  Augustine, 

Siiiit^'  Cruz.     . 

69 

77 

18 

30        00 

l^^^l 

60 

<>0 

10 

n:      oo 

^^H 

w  ^  ■ 


THR   IIOTKr,  DEL   MONTR   ANI*  (inofNDS   AT   MONTERKV,  CAL. 


308 


FMM  ^^ciwta  FOMiisr. 


The    Old    Overland   Route,    or  Sacramento   to  San 
Francisco,  via  Stockton,  Lathrop,  Liver- 
more   Pass    and  Niles. 


Leaving  Sacramento  by  this  route,  now  a  part 
of  the  Central  Pacific  BaiLroad,  but  formerly 
the  Western  Pacific,  we  do  lot  cross  the  Sacra- 
mento River,  but  go  along  its  bank  until  we 
pass  most  of  the  city  and  then  leave  the  river, 
lor  higher  land  some  distance  back.    We  reach 

Brigltton, — 134  miles  fram  £&n  Francisco, 
where  the  Sacramento  Valley  Railroad  leaves 
the  main  track.  This  road  extends  to  Folsom, 
22  miles,  where  it  connects  with  the  Sacramento 
Valley  and  Placerville  Railroad,  to  Shingle 
Springs  26  miles,  whence  daily  stages  leave  for 
Placerville,  58  miles  from  Sacramento.  The  old 
town  of  Brighton  was  on  tiie  Sacramento  River 
opposite  the  present  station,  and  on  the  oH 
Placerville  road. 

California  Wind-Mills. —  As  you  pass 
along  you  notice  nu.7ierou8  windmills,  of  various 
sizes  and  styles,  whirling  away  to  fill  reservoirs  for 
household  wants,  or  irrigate  the  vineyards  or 
orchards  and  gardens,  if  any  there  be.  They  are 
common  in  all  the  valleys  and  plains  of  Cali- 
fornia, and  numerous  in  the  cities.  The  sobri- 
quet of  Stockton  is  the  "  Windmill  City." 

About  California  farnos  there  is  usually  no 
garden.  Perhaps  a  few  vegetables  are  raised 
during  thd  winter.  In  some  localities  certain 
fruits  or  vegetables  do  not  grow  well,  and  the 
farmer  who  has  twenty  or  a  hundred  head  of 
horses,  before  his  gang-plows,  or  harvesting  his 
wheat  or  barley,  has  no  time  for  gardening  and 
prefera  to  depend  upon  the  daily  visits  of  the 
vegetable  wagon  as  well  as  the  butcher.  And 
among  our  cosmopolitan  people,  the  only  class  we 
lack  is  the  fanning  women  of  the  Mohawk  Val- 
ley, or  the  Pennsylvania  Dutch. 

Florin  —  ia  131  miles  from  San  Francisco, 


a  flag  station — side  track,  store  and  post-office. 
The  hard  pan  is  near  the  surface,  and  therefore 
but  little  moisture  retained  from  the  most 
copious  winter  rains.  Trees  cannot  send  down 
their  roots  until  this  hard  pan  is  broken  through 
for  them. 

Elk  Grove, — 123  miles  from  San  Francisco. 
In  early  days  the  hunter  here  could  find  large 
game  without  visiting  Shasta,  Tulare  Lake  or 
the  mountains.  At  the  old  hotel  the  sigfn  of  the 
elk  horns  invited  the  traveler,  suggesting  him  a 
dish  that  even  then  was  seldom  seen.  Beyond, 
on  the  right  hand,  is  some  of  the  bsst  soil  in  the 
State  in  the  low  lands,  comprising  the  delta  of 
the  Sacramento,  Mokelumne  and  San  Joaquin 
Rivers.  There  are  Presbyterian  and  Methodist 
Episcopal  Churches  in  the  village. 

McC'ontiell% — 119  miles  fro  a  San  Fran- 
cisco, on  the  banks  of  the  Cosumne  River,  a 
stream  like  all  others  in  California,  turbid  in 
winter,  and  an  empty  channel  in  summer. 

In  California  the  name  "ranche"  (a  contrac- 
tion of  the  Spanish  rancho,  which  is  primarily 
the  rude  lodging-place  of  herdsmen,  or  an  estali- 
lishment  for  raising  horses  and  cattle),  has 
almost  superseded  the  "hacienda," or  farm.  Mc- 
Connell's  Kanche  is,  however,  devoted  largely  to 
stocic  raising,  and  on  it  are  kept  the  finest 
imported  thorough-bred  merino  sheep.  Sheep 
raising  is  among  the  most  profitable  pursuits  in 
the  State,  and  the  woolen  manufactures  of  Cali- 
fornia are  unequaled  in  whatever  line  they  have 
hitherto  sought  to  excel. 

Oalt — is  112  miles  from  San  Francisco.  The 
Central  Pacific  Company  I'ave  now  built  a 
branch  road  to  the  coal  mines  at  lone  City, 
called 


The  Amador  Branch  Railroad, 


This  branch  was  built  in  the  year  1878  to 
reach  the  coal-fields  at  Carbondale  and  lone  City, 
and  accommodate  the  mining  and  agricultural 
interests  of  Amador  and  in  part  Calaveras 
County.  It  is  only  27.2  miles  long.  Leaving 
Gait,  after  the  arrival  of  the  trains  from  East 
and  West,  the  general  course  is  south  and  south- 
east! over  a  grazing  section  toward  the  foothills. 


Cicero  and  Carbondale  are  the  only  stations 
between  Oalt  and  lone.  The  latter  is  the 
station  for  the  Carbondale  mines,  owned  by 
the  lone  Coal  Company.  The  average  ship- 
ments are  fifteen  car-loads  a  day.  The  coal  in 
not  of  very  good  quality,  but  answers  well  for 
some  kinds  of  manufacturing  purposes. 

Jim«  €<ity  ia  in  a  proaperoxu  mining  and 


FMB  ^siciFia  Fo^misr. 


309 


farming  region.  Coal-fields  of  great  extent 
underlie  this  region,  and  twenty  car-loads  are 
shipped  daily.  The  place  is  a  brisk  one,  and 
has  the  usual  characteristics  of  a  mining  town. 
One  weekly  paper,  the  News,  is  published  here. 
It  is  the  base  of  supplies  for  a  number  of  mining 
camps  and  several  towns  of  considerable  import- 
ance.    Among  the  latter  is 

Sutter  Creek,  12  miles  distant  by  stage, 
ranking  next  to  Grass  Valley  in  Nevada  County, 
as  a  quartz  mining  locality.  Here  is  the  famous 
Amador  or  Hayward  Mine,  where  the  excava- 
tions are  now  made  several  hundred  feet  below 
the  level  of  the  sea.  It  has  been  one  of  the  richest 
mines  in  the  State,  and  produces  about  $700,000 
animally.  With  irrigation,  fruit  growing  and 
agriculture  succeed  well. 

JacksoHf  also  12  miles  by  stage  from  lone 
City,  was  formerly  rich  in  placer  mines,  but  the 
prosperous  mining    interests   of    to-day   are   in 


quartz.  The  soil  and  climate  combine  to  pro> 
duce  fruit  unexcelled  in  the  State,  and  large 
quantities  of  wine  and  brandy  are  made. 

Mokelumne  Jdiil  (pronounced  Mokel-em- 
ne),  is  18  miles  by  stage  from  lone  City.  It  has 
a  population  of  1,200,  and  was  the  county-seat 
ot  Calaveras  County  until  1867.  It  was  one  of 
the  earliest  mining  settlements.  The  Gwin  and 
other  quartz  mines  are  now  successfully  worked. 
From  this  poi  H  there  is  a  road  to  the  Calaveras 
Big  Trees,  but  it  is  not  the  direct  route  from 
San  Francisco,  and  therefore  is  traveled  but 
little,  except  by  those  who  desire  to  visit  the 
towns  between  them  and  Gait. 

Its  weekly  newspaper,  the  Chronicle,  is  the 
oldest  in  the  State. 

lone  City  has  stages  also  to  the  followin; 
points,  viz. :  Volcano,  25  miles  ;  West  Point,  3i 
miles;  Amador,   14  miles;  Drytown,  16  miles; 
Plymouth,   18  miles  and  Fiddletown  or  Oleta. 


AcantbOp  on  main  line,  only  a  flag  station. 

Ijodl — formerly  called  Mokelumne. 

Just  before  reaching  the  village,  the  Mokel- 
umne Kiver  is  crossed.  Lodi  is  one  of  a  flour- 
ishing trio  of  villages,  the  other  two  being 
Woodbridge,  two  miles  northwest,  and  Lock- 
ford,  four  miles  north  of  Lodi.  This  is  one  of 
the  best  portions  of  the  great  valley,  across  which 
one  now  passes.  The  soil  is  a  rich  sandy  loam, 
producing  abundantly,  and  the  intelligent, 
energetic  people  are  surrounded  with  all  the 
necessary  appendages  of  first-class  farms.  The 
evergreen  trees  have  given  their  name,  "Live 
Oakt,"  to  a  large  region  in  this  part  of  the 
valley. 

Castle — is  07  miles  from  San  Francisco — a 
flag  station.  The  Calaveras  River  is  crossed  be- 
fore reaching  Stockton,  but  except  in  winter  is 
only  an  empty  channel.  On  either  side  of  the 
road  will  be  seen  abundant  crops,  or  unmis- 
takable promise  of  them.  Much  of  the  land  is 
so  level  that  the  large  fields  of  100  or  more  acres 
can  be  completely  submerged  from  either  of 
their  sides. 

On  the  right,  entering  the  town  of  Stockton, 
stands  one  of  the  Insane  Asylums  of  the 
State.  The  other  is  located  at  Napa.  The 
grounds  at  this  place  comprise  130  acres  all 
under  a  high  state  of  cultivation.  There  are 
about  1,300  inmates.  The  first  building  passed 
is  the  largest  and  most  imposing,  has  every 
modern  convenience,  and  is  occupied  by  female 
inmates.     The  males  occupy  the  other  buildings. 

Stockton — is  91  miles  from  San  Francisco 
and  has  a  population  of  13,000.  It  is  23  feet 
above  the  sea,  and  the  county-seat  of  San  Joa- 
quill  County.  It  was  laid  out  in  1848  by  Captain 
Webber,  who  named  it  to  commemorate  Commo- 
dore Stockton's  part  in  the  conquest  of  Califor- 


nia. It  is  two  miles  from  the  San  Joaquin  River, 
at  the  head  of  Stockton  Slough  which  is  navi- 
gable at  all  season  for  vessels  of  250  tons. 

The  heart  of  the  town  was  destroyed  by  fire 
in  1849  and  again  in  1851.  It  is  laid  out  with 
broad  streets  at  right  angles,  and  has  street  cars 
fvom  the  depot  to  the  principal  hotels  and  the 
Insane  Asylum.  "Free  Busses"  also  convey 
passengers  to  the  Yosemite,  Mansion,  Grand  or 
Central — all  first-class  hotels.  The  city  was  once 
the  exclusive  base  of  supply  for  a  large  mining 
and  agricultural  trade  which  is  now  diverted,  yet 
the  development  of  the  country  has  caused  a 
steady  increase  of  its  volume  of  business. 

The  water  supply  is  from  an  artesian  well 
1,002  feet  deep,  flowing  300,000  gallons  of  pure 
water  daily,  the  water  rising  11  feet  above  the 
surface  of  the  ground.  The  city  is  lighted  with 
gas  and  has  an  efficient  volunteer  fire  department. 
Two  daily  and  weekly  papers,  the  Stockton  In' 
dependent  and  Evening  Herald,  four  banks  and 
large  woolen,  leather,  wood,  iron  ar.d  paper  fao 
tones,  wholesale  and  retail  stores,  and  an  exten- 
grain    business  are    the  foundations  and 


sive 


measures  of  the  prosperity  of  the  city.  The 
leather  tanned  here  is  considered  equal  to  the 
best  French,  and  commands  as  hiph  a  price. 

The  proximity  of  iron  and  coal  should  make 
this  city  the  Pittsburgh  of  the  Pacific.  It  has, 
fourteen  organized  churches,  some  of  which 
have  built  houses  of  worsliip — Roman  Catholics, 
Methodists  (North  and  South,  German  and  CoU 
ored).  Episcopalians,  Congi-egationalists,  Baptists, 
white  and  colored  Christians  (Disciples),  and 
Jewf.  Passing  in  the  cars,  nothing  is  seen  of 
the  better  residences,  of  which  there  are  many, 

{irovided  with  every  convenience  and  comfort, 
i^xcellent  public  and  private    schools   are   the 
boast  of  the  people,  for,  if  Californians  ever 


j'^ 


^0 


boast  (which  they  never  do)  they  do  not  forget 
to  speak  of  their  schools.  Masons,  Odd-Fel- 
lows, Red  Men,  Knights  of  Pythias,  Hiberni- 
ans, Pioneers,  and  other  societies,  representing 
social  and  benevolent  progress,  l^ear  the  de- 
pot, on  the  left,  may  be  seen  the  grounds  of  the 
San  Joa(^uin  Valley  Agricultural  Society. 

The  city  has  the  best  climate  of  the  valley. 
The  hot  air  of  the  city  ia  tempered  by  the  sea- 
breeze,  and  the  nights  are  always  cool. 

As  a  raUroad  centre  Stockton  has  not  yet  at- 
tained the  position  to  which  her  position  at  the 
mouth  of  the  great  San  Joaquin  Valley  enti- 
tles her.  A  narrow-guage  railroad  to  lone  City 
was  commenced,  but  has  been  abandoned.  It 
has  only  one  Ime  besides  the  Centrid  Pacific, 
to  wit: — 


The  branch  from  Peters  runs   to  Waverly 
and  Milton. 

Milton  is  a  grazing  section,  and  is  best 
known  as  the  point  of  departure  by  stage  for 
Murphy's, Calaveras,  Big  Trees,  Sonora, Chinese 
Camp  and  the  Yosemite  Valley.  A  train  leaves 
Stockton  at  7:30  a.m.  and  connects  at  Milton 
with  the  stages  of  the  Big  Oak  Flat  route  for 
the  Trees  and  the  Valley,  and  passengers  en- 
tering Yosemite  by  this  route  must  remain 
over-night  at  Stockton.  For  further  informa- 
tion on  this  point  see  pages  299-303. 
o 

Continuing  toward  San  Francisco,  on  the  old 
overland  route,  we  soon  reach — 

Lathropf  82.8  miles  from  San  Francisco,  by 
this  route,  and  94  miles  uta  Martinez  and  San 


A   MININa   CAMP  IN  ABIZONA. 


2%e   Stockton  and  CopperopoUs  Rail- 
road, 

This  is  owned  by  the  railroad  kings  of  Cali- 
fornia, and  leased  to  and  operated  by  the  Cen- 
tral Pacific.  It  extends  easterly  into'  Calaveras 
and  Stanislaus  counties.  At  Peters,  fifteen 
miles  from  Stockton,  one  branch  goos  to 
Milton,  thirty  miles  from  Stockton,  and  an- 
other to  Oakdale,  tliirty-four  miles  from  Stock- 
ton. Between  Stockton  and  Peters  are  Chai^es- 
ton.Walthall  and  Holden,  all  villages  in  a  rich 
farming  country.  'The  branch  to  Oakdale  goes 
through  Farmington,  Trim,  Clyde  and  Bur- 
netts—all in  a  bcauti  ful  v: . .  at-growing  section. 


Pablo.  The  longer  route  is  traveled  by  all  ex- 
press trains,  so  as  to  avoid  tho  steep  grades  of 
the  Livermore  Pass.  Lathrop  ia  almost  wholly 
a  railroad  town.  It  is  the  Junction  of  the  Son 
Joaquin  Valley  Branch,  or  *' Visalia  Division" 
of  the  Central  Pacific.  This  division  extends 
south  to  Goshen  147  miles,  and  there  unites 
with  the  Southern  Pacific.  Thus  Lathrop  is 
on  the  route  of  the  overland  trains  -va  tho 
Soutliern  Pacific.  At  this  point  possonqers 
going  south  and  east  dine,  and  Yosemite  tour- 
ists take  supper.  For  tlio  "  San  Joaquin  Val- 
ley" see  pages  334  and  335,  under  the  Souiket  n 
PatiAc  Overland  Route. 


311 


^ 


The  San  Joaquin  Valley  is  exceedingly  dusty 
in  summer.  For  this  reason  the  Palace  cars 
are  much  more  comfortable  tlian  others,  be- 
cause thej  are  always  at  the  head  of  the  train. 
The  tourist  will  be  struck  with  the  absence  of 
all  verdure  except  where  irrigated,  but  must 
remember  that  here  the  land  rests  in  summer, 
and  the  grass  grows  as  soon  as  the  early  rains 
fall  upon  it.  The  beautiful  mantle  of  green 
that  covers  the  earth  in  winter  and  spnng  is 
turned  to  hay  without  any  artificial  process,  the 
grass  storing  all  its  rich  juices. 

Sati  Joaquin  BHdffe,— 79  miles  from  San 
Franci»tp,  is  a  station  at  the  railroad  crossing  of 
the  San  Joaquin  River.  The  channel  is  on  the 
west  sick,  and  in  high  water  the  country  is  over- 
flowed for  miles  up  and  down  the  river,  reaching 
back  from  it  almost  to  Bantas,  the  next  station. 

BaHta8,—75  miles  from  San  Francisco,  and 
30  feet  above  tide-water,  is  named  for  an  old 
family  resident  here.  Stages  leave  at  1.30  p. 
M.,  for  San  Joaquin  City,  10  miles,  Grayson,  20 
miles,  Mahoney's,  35  miles,  and  Hill's  Ferry,  40 
miles.  Through  fare,  f3.50.  To  the  right  of 
Bantas,  down  the  San  Joaquin  River,  or  the 
branch  called  "  Old  River  "  is  a  vast  extent  of 
lowland,  overflowed  in  June,  by  the  melting 
snows  of  the  Sierra  Nevadas,  and  during  most 
of  the  rainy  season. 

After  the  water  passes  off,  flowers  spring  up, 
and  the  button  willow  bloojns,  affording  excel- 
lent bee-j^asture.  From  the  first  of  July  to  the 
first  of  November,  a  single  swurni  oi  bees  will 
often  gather  lUO  lbs.  of  honey.  Those  who  take 
care  of  the  bees  also  take  quinine  with  the 
honey  to  cure  the  "  chills."  This  is  believed  to 
be  the  extent  of  their  acquaintance  with  "  Bit- 
ter-sweet." Hundreds  of  acres  of  floating  land 
here  rise  and  fall  with  the  water. 

TrfU'ff  Junction.— Here  is  the  junf'tion  of 
the  two  routes,  the  Old  Overland  and  the 
Southern  Pacific  Overland,  or  the  Central 
Pacific  and  the  San  Pablo  and  Tulare  Railroad. 

£2liM, — 70  miles  Ironi  San  Francisco,  and  76 
feet  elevation,  another  vilhage  which  bustles  in 
the  midst  of  vast  wheat  fields,  during  seasons 
following  a  wet  winter,  and  sleeps  under  vast 
disappointments  during  other  years. 

This  "  West  Side"  of  the  San  Joaquin  River, 
was  supposed,  for  many  years,  to  be  worthless. 
The  old  Spaniards  left  it  out  of  their  ranches 
except  when  a  few  square  miles  or  leagues  were 
taken  in  for  the  sake  of  securing  a  convenient 
"/owjrt"  as  a  landmark.  In  1819-50,  as  the 
gold-digger  urged  his  mul§,  well  laden  with 
tent,  bedding,  pan  and  rocker,  and  three 
months'  provisions,  his  heart  full  of  expectation 
of  a  "  pile  "  to  be  si>eedily  dug  from  the  placers 
of  the  "  Southern  Mines,"  his  eyes  were  often 
gladdened  by  a  lake  of  bright  water  near  the 
"  trail "  only  a  mile  ahead,  lie  saw  white  sails, 
waves  chasing  each  other,  and  trees  on  the  shores 


reflected  from  their  bosom.  He  expected  soon 
to  camp  in  the  grateful  shade,  and  slake  his 
burning  thirst  with  the  cool  water.  The  white 
sails  bounded  away,  antelope-like,  across  the 
burning  plains,  for  alas  t  it  was  only  a  mirage — 
an  emblem  of  his  expected  wealth.  Even  now 
many  are  deluded  in  seeing  the  distant  water 
and  green  trees  beyond. 

The  soil  of  this  once  desert  region,  now  pro- 
duces the  best  of  wheat,  when  the  rains  are 
abundant,  but  from  its  peculiar  position  on  the 
north-east  of  the  Coast  Range,  the  necessary 
rain  is  often  wanting.  A  local  adage  is  "  every 
seven  years  a  crop  " — worse  than  ancient  Egypt's 
famine.  But  the  land-owners  are  moving  to 
construct  a  ditch  60  feet  wide  and  300  miles 
long,  to  irrigate  the  entire  vall»y  on  the  west 
side  of  the  river,  and  serve  for  transporting  the 
produce  to  the  tide-water  of  Suisun  Bay.  Once 
accomplished  this  almost  desert  land,  will  easily 
support  a  population  of  3,000,000. 

Fourteen  miles  south-west  from  this  station  is 
Corral  Hollow  or  Pass,  in  the  mountain  range,  at 
the  head  of  which  are  extensive  coal  mines,  to- 
ward which  a  branch  railroad  extends  five  miles. 
Here  an  extra  engine  is  taken  by  long  trains  to 
overcome  the  steep  grmle  of  the  Livermore 
Pass,  in  the  Mount  Diablo  Range. 

Midway. — ^The  train  now  runs  aronnd  hilla, 

high  embankments,  and  througli  deep  cuts,  the 
engine  often  seen  from  the  car  window  like  the 
fiery  head  of  a  huge  serpent. 

The  soil  is  coarse  sand  and  gravel,  the  finer 
particles  of  which,  and  vegetation,  too,  it  seems, 
have  been  blown  away  by  the  trade-winds,  which, 
pent  up  by  the  long  range,  rush  with  concentrated 
fury  over  the  summit  of  the  pass,  and  sweep 
down  with  devastating  force  into  the  vacuum  on 
the  heated  plains. 

Suddenly  the  train  enters  a  tunnel,  1,116  feet 
long,  the  only  one  between  Sacramento  and  San 
Francisco,  and  is  in  total  darkness  for  two 
minutes.    Emerging,  it  soon  arrives  at 

Altatnont, — west  of  the  sunnnit  of  the  Mount 
Diablo  Range,  56  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
and  710  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The 
traveler  will  see  numerous  gray  squirrels  stand- 
ing erect  at  the  entrance  to  their  homes.  They 
are  about  as  large  as  the  fox-squirrel  of  the  East- 
ern States,  live  in  villages  of  their  own,  are  the 
{)est  of  the  farmer,  have  increased  since  the  land 
las  been  cultivated,  and  lay  the  grain  fields 
under  a  tribute  far  heavier  than  the  rent.  It  is 
a  remarkable  fact  that  both  birds  and  squirrels 
have  increased  in  variety  and  numbers  all  over 
the  cultivated  regions  of  the  State  since  1850. 
As  the  train  descends  into  Livermore  Valley,  a 
truly  picturesque  scene  is  presented.  The  level 
valley,  in  form  a  square  12  miles  across,  with 
many  narrow  extensions  far  into  the  mountains, 
is  spread  out  before  one  in  full  view,  with  rolling 


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812 


roi^isr. 


hills  on  all  sides,  except  the  west,  Mrliore  rises  an 
abrupt,  tree-clad  mountain. 

On  the  right,  across  the  low  hills,  ereen  with 
live  oaks,  may  now  be  seen  Mt.  Diablo,  not  as 
before,  a  blue  dome,  but  a  real  mountain,  with 
deep  gorges  in  its  sides,  covered  with  chaparral, 
and  capped  usually  with  gray  mists. 

It  is  an  Indian  legend  that  this  country,  west 
of  the  Sierra  Nevada  Mountains,  was  once  cov- 
ered with  water,  and  the  top  of  this  mountain 
then  a  little  island.  At  tnat  period,  says  the 
legend,  the  devil  was  the  ;  imprisoned  by  the 
waters  for  a  long  time,  and,  therefore,  great  pros- 

Eerity  and  qi:iet  resulted  to  mankind;  hence 
is  name  was  given  to  it.  However  the  name 
may  have  been  first  given,  it  now  clings  to  it  in 
Spanish  form. 

The  western  portion  of  this  valley  contains 
hundreds  of  acres  of  the  best  land  in  the  State, 
much  of  it  moist,  vegetable  land,  in  the  midst  of 
which  is  a  lake  of  fresh  water,  near  which  are 
natural  flowing  wells.  From  these  the  creek  de- 
rives its  name  *'  Lna  Posvas  " — i.  c,  little  wells. 

Much  of  the  eastern  part  of  the  valley  is  cov- 
ered, to  a  great  depth,  with  small,  angular  stones, 
mixed  with  clay,  and  the  region  was  thought  to 
be  useless,  but  it  now  produces  the  finest  of 
wheat. 

From  Altamont,  it  is  8.1  miles  to 

Livermoret — i8  miles  from  San  Francisco. 
This  is  a  live  town,  485  feet  above  tide-water, 
with  1,()00  inhabitants,  a  seminary  of  learning, 
beautifully  nestled  amid  sturdy  oaks,  a  Presby- 
terian and  a  Catholic  church,  a  steam  mill,  news- 
Eaper,  saloons,  stores,  and  several  larga  ware- 
ouses.  Nine  miles  south,  and  &i,  the  head  of 
Corral  Hollow,  are  five  veins  of  good  coal  yield- 
ing 100  tons  per  day,  and  six  miles  from  the  town 
another  vein  has  been  opened.  These  are  prob- 
ably an  extension  of  the  Mount  Diablo  Coal 
fields  which  have  been  worked  for  many  years. 
Six  and  one-tenth  miles  down  the  valley  is 

PleasantOH, — 41  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
853  feet  above  the  sea,  a  village  of  300  inhab- 
itants, with  several  stores,  a  large  warehouse,  an 
abundance  r'  good  water,  and  a  rich,  beautiful 
country  on  '■  north  connecting  'vith  other  val- 
leys, and  landing  to  Martinez  at  the  head  of 
the  Straits  '^arquinez.  This  region,  now  Liv- 
ermore  Valltj ,  /iras  formerly  called  Amador  Val- 
ley, from  its  'original  owner,  and  was  an  inland 
sea.  In  1836,  Mr.  Livermore  found  the  bones  of 
a  whale  on  the  surface  of  the  ground,  near  the 
town  which  bears  his  name.  The  vei-tebrae  lay 
in  order  with  the  ribs  scattered  about  like  the 
rails  of  a  "worm"  fence.  Abalone  shells  are 
also  found  in  quantities  near  the  old  ranche 
house.  Beautiful  variegated  wild  pansies,  the 
lupin  and  California  poppy  have  taken  the  place 
of  sea  weeds. 

In  June  may  be  seen,  near  Pleasanton,  high 
4boTe  the  grain,  the  yellow  blossoms  of  the  black 


mustard.  In  former  years  it  stood  12  feet  high, 
and  so  thick  that  it  was  difficult  to  force  one's 
way  through  it.    To 

Sunol, — (^Sun-yole)  38  Aiiles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, the  tram  dashes  down  the  narrow  valley  of 
the  Alasal  Creek,  5.2  miles,  amid  pleasing  scen- 
ery, and  relics  of  the  Mexican  and  Indian  civili- 
zation of  California.  On  the  right  is  the  Contra 
Costa  Range  of  Coast  Mountains,  so  called  be- 
cause opposite  the  Coast  Range,  near  and  north 
of  San  t  rancisco.  It  is  only  a  few  nnles  across 
to  the  San  Jose  (San  Ho-zay)  Valley,  where  the 
train  will  pass  in  an  opposite  direction.  Sunol 
Valley,  a  mile  wide  and  three  miles  long,  is  south 
of  this  station.  Seven  miles  alwve  this  is  the 
Calaveras   Valley,   containing   1,500   acres — the 

Eroposed  site  of  a  vast  reservoir  to  supply  San 
'rancisco  with  water  in  future  years.  1'he 
mountains  al)out  these  valleys  are  extensive 
sheep  and  cow  pastures,  covered  with  wild  oats. 
The  road  passes  down  the  canon  of  the  Ala- 
meda Creek  and  over  three  fine  bridges,  yet 
winding  with  the  canon,  steep  mountains  on 
both  sides,  dressed  in  green  or  parched  with  sum- 
mer heat;  the  bracing  sea  breezes,  and  the 
knowledge  that  in  an  hour  and  a  half  the  cars 
will  reach  the  bay,  revive  the  spirit",  of  the 
traveler.  Soon  a  scene  of  wide  extended 
beauty  is  to  bur.it  on  his  vision — the  San  Jose 
Valley,  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  the  Serrated 
Mountains  that  turn  back  the  ocean  tides  of 
8,000  miles  travel,  and  all  around  him,  as  he 
hurries  on  to  the  ;:;reat  city,  a  garden  spot  more 
and  more  variegated  with  the  cnoicest  fruits  ai  d 
flowei-s,  and  abundant  in  homes  of  luxury  and 
ease.     From  Sunol  it  i."  6.4  miles  to 

NUeH, — 30  miles  fr  tm  San  Francisco,  88  feet 
above  tide-water.  Here  are  a  ",tore,  hotel,  ware- 
house and  mill.  A  stage  runs  from  all  trains  to 
Centreville,  three  miles   distant.     Here   is   the 

J" unction  of  the  San  Jose  Branch  of  the  Central 
*aciflc  Railroad.  Those  desiring  to  go  to  San 
Jose  without  passing  through  San  Francisco, 
will  change  cars  at  this  i)oint,  and  a  through 
ticket  to  San  Francisco  will  he  received  for 
passage  to  San  Jose.  This  branch  passes  through 
vV^ashmgton  Comers,  the  seat  of  a  flourishing 
college,  under  Rev.  S.  8.  Harmon,  and  a  pleas- 
ant Yilli»ge  overlooking  the  bay. 

Three  miles  farther  are  the  Warm  Springs,  in 
the  midst  of  oak  and  other  trees  near  the  Aqua 
Caliente  (hot  water)  Creek.  The  minerals  that 
increase  the  value  of  the  heated  water  are  lime, 
sulphur,  magnesia  and  iron.  They  were  for- 
merly a  popular  re8(»rt,  but  are  now  the  property 
of  Governor  Stanford.  When  his  designs  of 
building  and  beautifying  are  completed,  it  will 
bo  one  of  the  most  attractive  of  the  summer 
resorts. 

Near  Niles  the  Alameda  Creek  is  turned  into 

a  ditch  30  feet  wide,  and  distributed  over  the 

i  valley  for  irrigation,  for  although  both  the  land 


TMB  ^mciFw  rem^iST. 


313 


and  climate  are  moist,  irrigation  promotes  th- 

Srowth  of  fruits  and  vegetables  called  for  by  tlx 
an  Francisco  market. 

Adjoining  the  soutli-cast  end  of  this  bay,  are 
20,000  acres  of  salt  marsh,  now  in  process  of 
reclamation  by  dikes  and  ditches. 

Along  the  east  side  of  the  bay  are  numerous 
salt  ponds,  the  sea  water  being  let  in  at  high  tide 
upon  a  large  tract  of  land,  when  the  rainy  sea- 
son is  over,  and  this  repeated  several  times.  The 
concentrated  brine  is  then  drawn  off  in  a  planked 
reservoir,  where  it  slowly  crystallizes. 

As  the  train  passes  down  2.8  miles  to  Decoto, 
the  eye  is  pleased,  in  April  and  May,  by  the 
mountain  on  the  right — round,  green,  shaven, 
like  a  lawn,  or  its  sides  rich  with  fields  of  grain ; 
or  yellow  with  large  patches  of  buttercups,  blue 
with  lupin,  or  deep  orange  with  the  Eachscholt- 
zia,or  California  wild  poppy,  gathered,  no  doubt, 
far  east  of  this  point,  for  many  a  sentimental 
nosegay,  in  honor  of  the  traveler's  acquaintance. 
It  is  a  flower  peculiar  to  the  north-west  coast  of 
America.  Wild  flowers  are  so  numerous  in  Cal- 
ifornia that  often  from  twenty  to  a  hundred  va- 
rieties may  be  gathered  from  one  spot. 

On  the  left,  the  trees  mark  the  Alameda  Creek, 
flowing  down  to  the  salt  land.  Beyond  this  lies 
the  Old  San  Jose  Road,  and  the  richest  and  best 
cultivated  portion  of  the  valley.  At  Centreville, 
half-hidden  in  the  distance,  is  an  Alden  fruit  fac- 
toi7,  convenient  to  large  orchards,  and,  near  by, 
on  the  farm  of  Rev.  W.  W.  Brier,  stands  the  tree 
from  which  originated  the  tlumsands  of  acres  of 
Brier's  Languedoc  Almond,  the  soft-shelled  al- 
mond, that  no  traveler  has  ever  seen  excelled  in 
flavor. 

The  hill-sides  from  one  to  500  feet  above  the 
valleys,  are  best  adapted  to  its  culture,  because 
the  warm  air  from  the  lowlands  prevents  injury 
from  frost.     At 

Decoto— 21  miles  from  San  Francisco,  may 
be  seen  the  Eucalyptus,  or  Blue  Gum  Tree. 
Under  favotable  circumstances  it  will  grow 
in  five  years,  from  the  seed,  to  a  height  of 
seventy  feet,  with  a  circumference  of  four 
feet.  The  screen  wood  splits  readily,  but 
the  dry  is  as  hard  as  the  lignum-vitte.  They 
are  highly  prized  for  a  supjwsed  tendency  to 
counteract  malaria,  .nd  Hn-ij  cultivation  is  rap- 
idly extending. 

Soon  after  leaving  Decoto,  Alvarado  may  be 
seen.  It  was  once  the  county-seat  of  Alameda 
County.  The  valley  land  in  this  vicinity  sells 
for  ^150  to  $250  per  acre,  and  the  mountain  land 
from  $10  to  $30.  It  is  a  peculiarity  of  Califor- 
nia, that  the  value  of  land  is  always  stated  sep- 
arately from  improvements. 

Haywards, — 21  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
is  6.3  miles  from  Decoto.  The  town  is  seen  a 
mile  to  the  right,  on  the  hill,  at  the  outlet  of 
Castro  Valley— rich,  rolling  and  beautiful,  and 
well  watered,  four  miles  long  by  two  wide.    Cas- 


tro Valley  is  named  in  honor  of  the  original 
owner  of  the  ranche,  and  Hayward's  Hotel  is  a 
well-known  resort. 

On  the  hill,  to  the  right,  is  seen  a  forest— that 
may  be  mistaken  for  evidence  that  these  hills 
have  been  recently  denuded  of  their  timber.  It 
is  a  forest  of  the   Blue  Gum  Tree — 200  acres. 

The  town  has  churches,  public  schools,  and 
the  hotel,  still  kept  by  Mr.  Hayward,  is  a  popular 
place  of  resort  for  those  who  seek  a  good  and 
quiet  home  without  removing  from  business  in 
the  city.  Stages  leave  this  station  for  Alvarado 
at  9:20  a.  h.,  and  4:20  p.  m.,  and  from  all  tnuns 
to  Hayward. 

Liorenzo, — 18  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is 
near  San  Lorenzo  Creek,  anr'  urrounded  by  a 
well  improved  country.  It  is  pleasant  village, 
and  contains  an  extensive  establishment  for 
drying  fruit  on  the  Alden  process,  a  store,  a  neat 
church  ediflce  and  the  usual  places  to  "  take  a 
drink."  The  land  is  worth  $600  per  acre.  The 
large  building  to  the  right  on  the  mountain  side, 
is  the  Poorhouse  of  Alameda  Countv,  with  which 
there  is  a  farm  connected.  The  goiden  sands  of 
California  and  the  absence  of  severe  winters  do 
not  keep  poverty  and  age  from  every  door,  nor 
does  a  generous  hospitality  make  public  chariiy 
unnecessary. 

This  section  of  country  is  noted  for  its 
cherries  and  currants,  but  nearly  every  variety  of 
fruit  is  extensively  cultivated.  One  of  the  fine 
orchards  on  the  right  before  reaching  the  sta- 
tion, has  100  acres  of  Almonds,  and  200  acres  of 
other  fruits.  The  owner  constructed  private 
water-works  at  an  expense  of  $15,000. 

San  JLeandro,— 16  miles  from  San  Frar- 
cisco,  was  formerly  a  county-seat.  It  has  a 
population  of  1,000,  a  large  factory  for  wagons 
and  gang-plows,  a  Presbyterian,  a  Catholic  and 
a  Methodist  Church,  stores  and  saloons.  In  the 
mountains  opposite,  and  on  a  creek  of  the  same 
name,  is  located  the  reservoir  of  the  Oakland 
water-works.  The  water  is  collected  from  the 
winter  floods  and  is  65  feet  deep. 

Melrose — is  11  miles  from  San  Francisco.  Be- 
fore reaching  the  station  and  after  crossing  the 
San  Leandro  Creek,  there  may  be  seen  on  the 
right,  nestled  in  a  beautiful  vale  at  the  foot  of 
the  mountains,  the  largest  and  best  apportioned 
Protestant  Seminary  for  girls  of  the  Pacific 
Coast,  Mills  Hentinary.  The  buildings  were 
erected  at  a  cost  of  about  $100,000,  $30,000  of 
which  was  contributed  by  public-spirited  indi- 
viduals. The  65  surrounding  acres,  with  their 
oaks,  sycamores,  alders,  willows,  and  laurel  or 
bay  tree ;  the  orchards,  lawns  and  flower-beds,  the 
inspiring  views,  combining  the  fruitful  plain, 
the  water  and  the  mountains  beyond  ;  a  climate, 
always  stimulating  to  mental  effort — in  short,  the 
correspondence  of  attractions  and  advantages, 
without  and  within,  make  this  a  point  of  inter 


fiU 


est  to  all  who  desire  to  see  the  progress  of  edu- 
cation in  one  of  nature's  most  gifted  spots. 

Near  the  race-track  on  the  left,  are  several 
buildings  with  lara:e,  square  chimneys,  used  to 
smelt  and  refine  gold  and  silver,  while  on  the  right 
is  a  fuse  factory.  The  town  of  Alamedp  is  seen 
on  the  left,  almost  hidden  by  live  oaks.  A 
branch  railroad  connects  it  with  this  station,  and 
the  "  local  "  trains  of  Oakland. 

Between  Melrose  and  the  next  station,  we  pass 
Fruit  Vale,  a  station  on  the  Alameda  Road, 
and  a  spot  of  surpassing  loveliness.  The  elegant 
lawns,  and  beautiful  mansions  are  almost  wholly 
oonceiEded  by  the  luxuriant  foliage. 

Brooklyn — 9  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is 
the  point  of  departure  for  the  "local"  trains 
that  will  be  seen  again  at  the  Oakland  wharf. 
It  is  now  East  Oakland,  a  delightful  suburb  of 
San  Francisco. 

The  land  rises  gently  toward  the  foot  liiUs, 
almost  from  the  water's  edge.  Since  it  has  be- 
come a  corporate  part  of  the  City  of  Oakland, 
it  has  made  rapid  improvements  in  the  opening 
of  new  and  well  macadamized  streets  and  the 


erection  of  flue  residences.  The  ''local"  train 
passes  directly  through  Oakland  to  Oakland 
Point,  and  making  six  stops  on  the  way.  Be- 
fore reaching  the  next  station  through  trains 
will  cross  the  track  of  the  Alameda  Branch,  that 
of  the  South  Pacific  Coast  Narrow  Guage  Rail- 
road. Both  are  for  the  accommodation  of  local 
travel,  and  connect  Alameda  with  Oakland  and 
San  Francisco.  From  the  abundance  of  the 
evergreen  oaks,  one  may  conclude  that  pleasure 
parties  will  find  there  a  balmy  retreat  whether 
beneath  the  clear  sky,  or  sheltered  from  the 
afternoon  winds,  and  it  has  always  been  a  pop- 
ular picnic  resort.  On  Sunday,  the  boats  and 
trains  are  crowded  with  thousands  seeking  rec- 
reation and  enjoyment  there.  Brooklyn  is  a 
splendid  home  resort  for  travelers. 

Onklaml—m  2  miles  from  Brooklyn.  The 
train  halts  at  the  foot  of  Market  Street,  where 
carriages  may  be  had  to  any  part  of  the  city. 

Oakland  Point  and  the  railroad  shops  will 
soon  be  crowded  out  of  mind  by  the  great  mole 
in  the  bay,  the  spacious  depot,  and  we  end  of 
the  journey. 


The  California  Pacific  Railroad' 


This  road  in  its  several  branches  includes 
116.44  miles,  from  Vallejo  to  Suisun,  Davisville, 
Sacramento  and  Knight's  Landing,  and  fi'om 
Napa  Junction  near  vallejo  to  Calistoga.  That 
portion  of  the  road  between  Sacramento  and 
Suisun  which  forms  a  part  of  the  C.  P.  Over- 
land route  has  been  described  on  another  page. 

Connection  is  made  on  the  Northern  Railway 
by  a  ferryboat  from  Vallejo  Junction,  near  Port 
Oosta.  At  South  Vallejo  passengers  take  cars 
for  Vai^lejo,  one  mile  from  South  Vallejo. 

The  pronunciation  of  this  Spanish  word  is 
Val-yay-ho,  and  the  town  was  named  in  honor 
of  an  old  family  still  residing  there. 

The  station  for  the  town  is  sometimes  called 
North  VaUejo,  to  distinguish  it  from  the  new 
town  that  has  grown  around  the  railroad  ter- 
minus, one  mile  south. 

Vallejo  was  for  awhile  the  capital  of  the  State. 
It  has  now  a  population  of  about  2,500,  and 
derives  much  of  its  business  from  the  United 
States  Navy  Yard  on  Mare  Island. 

It  has  a  Methodist,  a  Presbyterian,  a  Baptist 
and  a  Roman  Catholic  Church,  and  South 
Vallejo  has  also  a  Congregational  Church. 
Vallejo  has  a  stage  to  Benicia,  ei^ht  mUes,  and 
daily  steamer  to  San  Francisco,  in  addition  to 
the  ferryboat  that  connects  three  times  a  day 
with  trains  on  the  Northern  Railway. 

The  wharves  at  South  Vallejo  are  in  deep 
water,  and  at  them  grain  brought  from  the 
valley  north,  is  loaded  direct  for  Ijiverpool  and 


other  parts.  A  large  elevator — the  only  one 
ever  erecL<id  on  the  coast,  was  blown  down  dur- 
ing a  southeast  gale.  Vallejo  has  two  news- 
papers, the  Ch'ontcie,  a  weekly,  and  the  ',ide- 
pendfnt,  a  daily. 

After  leaving  Vallejo  to  go  northward,  the 
Orphan's  Home,  under  the  auspices  of  the  L  O. 
G.  T.  will  be  noticed  on  the  hill  at  the  right  of 
the  road — an  institution  as  useful  as  its  situation 
is  commanding. 

Farther  on,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  road, 
are  the  grounds  and  race-track  of  the  A^cul- 
tural  Society,  and  seven  miles  from  Vallejo  and 
38  from  San  Francisco  is  Napa  Junotion. 

Here  the  road  branches — the  one  to  the  right 
crossing  the  hills  to  Suisun.  This  was  formerly 
the  direct  road  to  Sacramento  and  is  the  main 
line  of  the  road.  It  is  used  for  some  of  the 
freight  coming  from  ''le  west  side  of  the  Sacra- 
mento Valley,  and  al  for  i)a38eneror  trains 
for  local  travel  or  to  connect  Napa  Valley  with 
th3  overland  travel  on  the  C.  P.  Railroad.  Be- 
tween the  Junction  and  Suisun  there  are  only 
two  stations. 

Vi'etttoH,  a  flag  station,  and 

Cordelia  or  Bridgeport,  8  miles  from  the 
Junction.  Cordelia  is  the  outlet  for  Green  Val- 
ley, a  valley  nestled  among  the  hills  ot  the 
Coast  Range,  in  which  the  earliest  fruits  and 
vegetables  found  in  the  San  Francisco  markets 
are  usually  grown.  The  whole  distance  from 
the  Junction  to  Suisun  is  12.8  miles.    Suisun  is 


.;  I 


^^ 


816 


FMS   ^^€IF1€  TOURIST. 


51.11  miles  from  San  Francisco  by  this  route 
and  49.5  via  Benioia. 

The  Napa  Valley 

is  one  of  the  loveliest,  best  improved,  and  most 
fruitful  sections  of  the  State.  Enclosed  be- 
tween two  ridges  of  the  Coast  Bange,  one  of 
which  separates  it  from  the  Sacramento  and 
the  other  from  the  Sonoma  Valley,  and  above 
GaUstoga,  Mount  Saint  Helena  stands  like  a 
great  sentinel  across  the  head  of  the  valley. 
The  soil  is  among  the  best  in  the  State,  and  frrit 
growing  extensively  and  successfully  practiced. 

The  climate  is  well  tempered  and  the  season 
rare  when  crops  fail. 

The  first  station  north  from  the  Junction  is 
called 

Thoinpaoti. — from  the  owner  of  the  ranch 
and  orchard,  which  will  strike  the  observer  as 
closely  related  to  the  perfect  arrangement  and 
culture  of  the  farms  in  Chester  or  Cumberland 
Valley  of  Pennsy  Ivan  via,  and  a  closer  inspection 
would  reveal  one  of  the  most  convenient  and 
complete  farm-houses  in  the  country.  Suscol, 
a  landing-place  and  ferry  on  the  Napa  River,  is 
near  by.  The  next  station  is  4.49  miles  farther 
north,  and  called 

Napa^ — 46 >4  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is  a 
town  of  ^eat  loveliness,  with  a  population  of 
5,000,  set  in  homes  embossed  in  fruit  and  flowei  s. 
It  ia  not  Bui-passed  for  beauty  of  situation  in 
the  State,  and  rivaled  by  San  Jose  only.  It  is 
at  the  head  of  navigation  for  light  di-aft  on  the 
Napa  Biver,  and  near  it  is  located  the  new 
Branch  Insane  Asylum,  erected  at  a  cost  of  more 
than  a  million  of  dollars.  The  public  schools 
rank  high,  and  there  are  also  four  colleges  and 
seminaries  of  higher  order.  The  Register  is  a 
didlv  and  weekly  newspaper,  and  the  Rf porter  a 
we^y.  It  has  two  good  hotels,  the  "United 
States,  ""The  Palace, '''many  stores  of  high  order, 
and  good  banking  f^ilities.  In  no  portion  of 
the  State  is  society  more  stable  and  cultivated. 
The  churches  are  imposing  and  well  attended. 
Tlie  Presbyterians  have  here  the  largest,  most 
convenient  and  tasteful  house  of  worship  out- 
side of  San  Francisco  and  Oakland,  and  the 


Methodists,  Baptists  and  Boman  Catholics  have 
good  houses  also.  Daily  stages  connect  with 
the  morning  train  for  Sonoma.  Above  Napa, 
5.45  miles,  is 

Off  le  Knoll, — near  which  is  hidden  in  a  park 
of  evergreen  oaks  the  pleasant  residence  of  thn 
late  B.  B.  Woodward,  Esq.,  one  of  the  moRt 
enterprising  and  public-spirited  men  of  Call- 
fomia,  near  which  may  be  seen  his  orchard, 
one  of  the  largest  and  best  in  the  county. 

YountviUe — ^is  3.45  miles  farther  north,  a  vil- 
lage with  about  300  inhabitants,  called  after  ono 
of  the  early  settlers.  Near  the  depot  is  a  large 
vinery.  On  the  hill-sides  are  numerous  vineyarda. 
and  in  the  village  a  Baptist  and  a  Cor<  ^regationaL 
Church. 

St.  Helena — it  a  village  of  about  500  inhab- 
itants, surrounded  with  ranches  where  people  of 
culture  live  in  luxury,  and  two  miles  distant 
are  the  White  Sulphur  Springs.  Stages  for  the 
Springs  .connect  with  every  train,  and  for  Knox- 
ville  in  Lake  County,  with  every  morning  train 
from  San  Francisco.  Presbyterians,  Baptists, 
and  Metliodists  have  churches  here.  The  valley 
grows  narrower  until 

Calistoga  —  is  reached,  with  a  population 
of  about  500,  and  two  hotels — one  the  "Hot 
Springs." 

Here  are  hot  and  mud  baths,  and  from  Calis- 
toga  are  numerous  pleasant  drives,  especially  to 
the  Petrified  Forest,  five  miles  distant,  on  the  top 
of  the  ridge  lying  toward  the  ocean,  and  in  a 
sunken  part  of  the  high  table-land  where  there 
was  evidently  a  lake  after  trees  had  attained 
an  enormous  growth,  and  long  after  this  tho 
waters  of  the  lake  discharged  oy  some  sudden 
rupture  of  the  surrounding  wall.  The  mountain 
views,  hunting,  fishing  and  other  attractions, 
make  Calistoga  a  popular  resort,  and  the  recent 
discovery  of  many  quicksilver  and  silver  mines  has 
given  a  iresh  impetus  to  the  business  of  the  town. 

The  population  is  about  700,  but  varies  with 
the  summer  freighting  to  Lake  County.  Foss's 
line  of  stages  leaves  every  morii'ng  during  the 
summer  for  the  Geysers,  and  stagf.s  leave  daily 
on  arrival  of  morning  train  from  Sun  Francisco 
for  Bartlett's  and  other  resorts  of  Lake  County, 


Branch  iiom  Davis  ville  to  Knight's  Landing, 


At  Davisville  there  is  a  branch  from  the  main 
stem  northward  to  Woodland  and  Knight's 
Landing.  This  branch  was  built  to  Marysville, 
but  several  miles  of  it  across  the  tule  land  be- 
tween the  two  places  were  destroyed  by  the 
floods  of  1872,  and  there  was  not  sufficient  in- 
ducements to  rebuild  it.  Finally  the  unused 
track  was  removed. 

JUerrltt's — is  a  station  5  miles  north  of  Davis- 
ville, and 

tVooilland — 23  miles  from  Sacramento,  and 


86  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is  the  largest  town 
in  Yalo  County.  It  is  in  a  fertile  region,  has  a 
population  of  1,200,  a  Con^egationai,  a  Metho- 
dist Episcopal,  a  Christian  Church,  and  a 
Catholic  Church,  a  weekly  newspaper,  and  a 
public  Academy,  or  Western  College.  The 
grand  oaks  surrounding  the  place  make  it  at- 
tractive for  picnics,  camp-meetings  and  other 
occasional  gatherings. 
Curtis — is  a  mere  side-track,  and 
Knight'H  Landing — 95   miles   from   San 


317 


Francisco,  and  32  miles  from  Sacramento,  is 
the  terminus  of  this  branch.  It  is  on  the  south 
bank  of  the  Sacramento  Biver,  and  at  this  point 


steamers  carrying  freight  and  occasionally  pas- 
sengers connect  for  landings  on  the  upper  part 
of  the  river. 


^m 

II.'*    E 

The  NoTthern  Railway. 


That  portion  of  this  road  between  Port  Costa 
and  Suisun  has  been  described  elsewhere  aa 
part  of  the  G.  P.  Overland  route.  Between 
Suisun  and  the  Northern  Junction,  the  Califor- 
nia Pacific  supplies  a  gap  in  the  roada.  It  is 
leased  to  and  operat«d  by  the  Central  Pacific, 
and  one  continuous  line  formed  from  Sacra- 
mento or  San  Francisco  to  that  portion  of  the 
Sar^ramento  Valley  lying  west  of  the  river.  By 
this  route  the  best  settled  portion  of  Colusa 
County  finds  easy  and  direct  access  to  the  cities 
on  the  river  or  the  bay,  and  Bartlett  and  Allen 
Springs  in  Lake  County,  their  best  route  to  the 
same  places.  We  reach  Va/n,  27.53  miles, 
Block's  33.41  and  Dunnigan  40.93  miles  from 
Sacramento,  all  towns  in  an  agricultural  region, 
each  with  several  stores,  saloons,  etc. ,  but  of  no 
general  importance. 

Harrinffton,  45.97, 

^rftfic/d/f,  51.14, 

Berlin,  55  20,  and 

Macfft  56  13  miles  from  Sacramento,  are  all 
small  places  in  an  agricultural  region. 

WHHamH,  61.86  is  the  station  for  Colusa 
(City),  eleven  miles  east,  on  the  Sacramento 
river.  Stages  for  Bactlett  Springs  and  other 
points  in  Lake  county  leave  Williams  every 
morning :  and  stages  for  Colusa  make  close  coiv* 


nection  daily  with  both  passenger  and  mixed 
trains. 

Colusa  is  the  county  seat  of  Colusa  county — 
which  is  one  of  the  largest  wheat-producing  coun- 
ties in  the  state.  The  town  has  a  population  of 
almost  3,000,  and  is  connected  by  daily  stages 
with  Marysville ;  and  by  anotlier  line  to  Jacinto, 
Princeton  and  Chico.  Jacinto,  in  this  county,  is 
the  home  of  Dr.  Glenn,  the  larger t  wheat-grower 
in  California. 

Maxwell,  70.71  miles  from  Sacramento, 

Delavan,  75.95  miles  from  Sacramento, 

Norman,  79.61, 

liogandale,  81.97,  are  all  unimportant  sta- 
tions. 

IVlUows,  87.54  miles  from  Sacramento  and 
150.87  from  San  Francisco,  is  the  present  ter- 
minus of  this  road.  It  is  wholly  a  railroad  town, 
but  has  sprung  up  as  though  sure  of  an  impor« 
taut  future,  and  even  aspires  to  rivalry  of  Co« 
lusa. 

Tiie  extension  of  this  road  will  be  northward 
to  Tehama,  where  the  Oregon  division  of  the 
Central  Pacific  crojses  the  Sacramento  river. 
About  forty  miles  are  yet  to  be  built  to  complete 
this  connection.  When  this  gap  is  closed  Saa 
Francisco  will  have  a  direct  line  to  Redding  for 
ail  travel  to  northern  California  and  Oregon. 


»l 


»18 


TMM  l^siClFW  WO^mtST. 


The  Simih  Paeifie  Coaat  Sailroad0 


(NAUnOW   OAITUE.) 


A.  E.  Davis,  Pros. ;  Tiios.  Carter,  Supt. 

General  Offices,  20  and  21  Nevada  Block,  San 
Francisco. 

This  road  connects  San  Francisco  by  ferry 
with  Oakland  and  Alameda,  extending  thence  to 
Santa  Cruz,  a  distance  of  80.8  miles.  The  depot 
in  San  Francisco  is  at  the  foot  of  Market  street, 
adjoining  the  C.  P.  K.  K.  depot. 

The  depot  in  Oakland  is  on  Thirteenth  Street, 
near  Webster.  It  is  farther  up-town  than  the 
depot  of  the  C.  P. ,  bnt  not  so  near  the  princi- 
pal stores  and  public  bnildings,  and  not  so 
convenient  to  the  numerous  lines  of  horse* 
cars. 

Afametla,  like  Oakland,  Is  a  pleasant  suburb 
of  San  Francisco.  For  a  long  time  the  higher 
ffround  of  Oakland  was  more  attractive,  but  of 
late  Alameda  has  grown  rapidly.  The  soil — a 
light,  sandy  loam — and  its  mild  ciimate  make  it  a 
paradise  for  flowers ;  and  its  bathing  facilities — 
the  best  in  the  vicinity  of  San  Francisco — attract 
to  it  large  numbers  irom  all  the  surrounding 
towns.  It  has  a  population  of  about  5,00U; 
Presbyterian,  Methodist,  Episcopal,  Congrega- 
tional, Baptist  and  Catholic  churches,  several 
public  gardens,  and  many  cuinfurtabie  and  hand- 
some residences.  The  through  trains  stop  at 
Alameda  Point,  Pacific  avenue  and  Park  street. 
Local  trains,  eveiy  hour  during  the  day,  stop  at 
Alameda  Point,  Pacijic  avenue,  S<:cond  avenite, 
Third  avenue,  Schutzen  Park,  Morton  street.  Chest' 
nvU  street,  Park  street,  Versailles  avenue  and  High 
street. 

Went  Sun  Leandro,  IVetit  San  Loreiiso, 
RnsHelVH  and  Mount  Eden  are  all  signal 
stations,  and,  except  the  liist  one,  all  are  named 
for  towns  on  the  line  of  tbe  old  Overland  route 
(Central  Pacific),  about  a  mile  from  which  this 
ro«d  runs.  The  course  is  parallel  to  the  Central 
Pacific  and  its  branch  from  Xiles  to  San  Jose, 
but  nearer  to  the  bay. 

Alimrndo,  24.4  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is 
a  village  of  about  500  people.  Near  it  are  ex- 
tensive works  for  evapoiating  the  water  of  the 
bay  and  supplyiug  salt.  Huge  piles  of  salt  may 
be  seen  below  the  town  on  the  left.  Another 
important  industry  is  the  manufacture  of  beet 
sugar.    Hall's  is  a  side-track,  and 

Nctvark,  29.6  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is 
a  thriving  village  with  a  landing  on  the  bav.  It 
was  laid  out.  when  the  road  was  projected 

Mowrf/*8  is  a  signal  station. 

Alviso  is  a  village  at  the  southern  extremity 
of  San  Francisco  bay,  and  the  center  of  straw- 


berry culture,  and  ships  by  steamer  to  San  Fran- 
cisco sometimes  twenty  tons  of  berries  a  day. 
Wild  fowl  are  abundant  during  the  winter  season 
all  along  the  bay,  and  Alvarauo  and  Alviso  are 
convenient  points  for  hunting  them.  A  stage 
connects  with  Sati  ,Tose. 

Agut'w's  is  a  signal  station. 

Santa  Clara  and  San  Jotw  are  about  four 
miles  nearer  San  Francisco  by  this  road  than  by 
the  Southern  Pacific  northern  division.  For 
these  places  see  pages  281-2. 

Lovelttdff'H  IS  a  signal  station,  about  midway 
between  San  Jose  and  the  Coast  Mountairs, 
which  are  sensibly  near  it. 

Lou  GatOH  is  a  village  of  nearly  500  people, 
with  a  flouring-mill,  lime-kiln  and  stone-quarry 
furnishing  the  chief  industries.  The  climate  is 
delightful,  and  a  slight  elevation,  enabling  one  to 
overlook  the  magnificent  valley,  supplies  a  scene 
of  which  the  eye  should  never  tire. 

The  route  across  tl/se  mountains  is  one  of  the 
most  charming  and  picturesque  in  all  the  state. 
John  Muir  points  out  the  fact  that  the  Coast 
Mountains,  neing  older  than  the  Sierras  and 
better  finished,  abound  with  choice  bits  of  pict- 
uresque scenery  almost  wanting  in  the  loftier 
range. 

Leaving  Los  Gatos,  the  road  follows  u^  the 
canon,  through  which  flows  a  creek  of  the  same 
name. 

Alma,  58.3  miloa  irom  fun  Francisco.  This 
is  the  old  village  of  Lexin-^ton. 

WriffM'a,  02.0  iriiic-.s  ^lom  San  Francisco,  was 
for  a  long  time  the  terminus  of  the  road,  while 
the  tunnel,  6,450  feet  long,  was  being  run.  At 
ihis  a  number  of  Chinamen  lost  their  lives  from  an 
explosion  of  coal-oil  gas  encountered  in  working. 

(Hen  ivood,  66,  and  Doughertu*n  Mill,  70.2 
miles  from  San  Francisco,  are  unimportant  sta- 
tions. The  road,  on  reaching  the  western  slope 
of  the  mountains,  follows  the  Zayante  Creek  and 
then  the  San  Lorenzo  river  to  Felton,  the  Big 
Trees  and  Santa  Cruz. 

Felton, I'i.l,  is  an  admirable  place  from  which 
to  f;et  out  for  hunting  bear,  deer,  wildcats  and 
lions,  or  for  trout-fishing.  It  is  principally  a 
lumbering  camp. 

Jilg  Treettf  74.5  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is 
a  charming  grove  of  redwoods,  the  sequoia  sem- 
pervirens,  and  was  once  the  camp  ot  General 
Fremont.  Many  of  the  trees  are  large  speci- 
mens of  the  redwood,  and  one  is  said  to  be  300 
feet  high  and  20  feet  in  diameter.  The  grove  is 
well  worth  seeing. 


TMB  fRsiCIFIC  TOimiSr. 


319 


The  ride  down  the  San  Lorenzo  river  to  Santa 
€rii7.  w  one  of  the  monl  charming  in  the  Hale.  Tlio 
California  Powder  Works  are  scattered  for  a 
mile  or  two  along  the  river  above  the  town  of 
Santa  Cruz,  and,  combined  with  the  wild,  pict- 
ureH(iuo  scenery  of  forest,  hill  and  river,  and 
ocean,  the  view  is  enchanting  to  every  beholder. 
It  can  be  most  enjoyed  by  driving  along  the 
well-graded  road  from  Santa  Cruz  to  Felton. 

Sfinta  Crux,  79.8  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
is  the  county  seat  of  Santa  Cruz  countv.  Tt  is 
connected  with  Pescadero  by  a  tri-wefikly  stage, 
and  with  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad  by  a 
narrow-gauge  railroad  to  Pajaro.  The  popula- 
tion is  about  6,000.  It  has  long  been  the  favor- 
ite sea-side  resort  for  San  Francisco  and  northern 
California,  because  of  its  long,  clean,  sandy  beach, 
its  beautiful  drives,  its  good liunting  and  fishing, 
and  its  rnihl  climate. 

It  is  on  the  north  side  of  Monterey  Bay,  pecu- 
liarly sheltered  from  wind  and  fog,  but  enjoys  a 
fine  view  of  the  ocean,  with  its  passing  steamers 
and  sailing  craft.    It  has  charming  society,  and 


Congregational,  MethiMlist  Episcopal,  Baptist, 
Catholi(;,  and  Methodist  Kpifivopal  (South) 
Churches.  It  has  extensive  tanneries,  lime- 
((uurries  and  kilns,  and  a  viiriety  of  manufact- 
ures. Mosses  in  great  variety  may  be  gathered 
on  the  beach,  and  north  of  the  town  there  are 
many  interesting  rocks,  worti  by  the  waves  into 
fantastic  shapes.  On  the  Terry  &  Baldwin  Ranch 
there  is  a  remarkable  natural  bridge,  formed  by 
the  encroachiiigs  of  the  sea. 

All  along  Mie  coast,  from  Pescadero  to  Santa 
Cruz  and  Monterey,  there  are  formations  of  the 
coast  that  wash  pebbles  in  great  vaiiety  to  the 
jeach,  and  Santa  Cruz  boasts  of  oneof  the  finest. 

About  nine  miles  north  is  a  magnetic  spring, 
in  the  midst  of  deliglitful  scenery,  with  a  well- 
kept  cottage,  and  therefore  a  [)opular  resort  for 
invalids. 

The  Pacific  House,  and  other  hotels,  are  good, 
and  in  all  respects  Santa  Cruz  is  a  charming  re- 
sort. It  is  less  than  four  hours'  ride  from  San 
Francisco  by  the  South  Pacific  railroad. 


.,  t 


% 


Narth  JPaei/lc  Coast  MaUroad* 

(narrow  gauge.) 


This  road  is  now  completed  from  Saucelito,  its 
southern  terminus,  in  Marin  County,  to  the  north 
side  of  the  Russian  River,  80J  miles  in  length, 
with  a  branch  from  San  Quentin  to  the  "  Junc- 
tion," 17  mills  from  San  Francisco.  Nearly  all 
passengers  take  the  route  via  San  Quentin  and  San 
Rafael,  on  the  spacious,  elegant,  and  fast  stegm- 
ers  "San  Rafael"  and  "Saucelito,"  from  the 
foot  of  Market  Street.  These  popular  boats  are 
owned  by  the  railroad  company. 

The  railroad  company  own  barges  on  which 
they  transport  all  their  freight  cars  to  and  from 
San  Francisco  without  breaking  bulk,  but  pas- 
sengers by  this  route  take  the  boats  of  the 
Saucelito  Land  and  Ferry  Company.  These 
boats  also  leave  the  foot  of  Market  Street. 

The  branch  via  Saucelito  affords  many  fine 
views  of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco. 

The  road  passes  through  Marin  and  into 
Sonoma  County,  and  the  trip  over  it  is  more  di- 
versified than  any  other  of  equal  length  in  Cali- 
fornia. From  tlie  beauty  of  the  Golden  Gate  and 
the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  the  road  skirts  the  base 
of  Mt.  Tamatpais,  and  passes  through  a  wild, 
picturesque  mountain  region,  down  a  beautiful 
cafioa  filled    with    trees,  babbling   water   and 


trout,  through  rolling  hills,  the  great  dairy  re- 
gion of  the  coast,  along  the  shores  of  Tomales 
Bay,  through  fertile  grain  fields,  and  at  last  ends 
in  the  dark  forests  of  the  red-woods,  where  the 
Russian  River  has  broken  asunder  the  coast 
mountains  and  forced  its  way  to  the  ocean. 

During  the  summer  two  through  trains  are  run 
daily,  and  during  the  winter  one  train,  Sundays 
excepted.  In  summer  a  Sunday  excursion  train 
leaves  San  Francisco  via  SauceUto,  and  returns 
in  the  evening. 

Between  San  Francisco  and  San  Rafael  eight 
round  trips  are  made  daily. 

Leaving  San  Francisco  via  San  Rafael,  one 
passes  under  the  gvms  of  Alcatraz  Island,  which 
stand  a  sentinel  at  the  Golden  Gate,  and  rounds 
Angel  Island,  which  is  separated  from  the  main- 
land by  Raccoon  Straits,  and  takes  in  on  a  clear 
day,  while  passing,  the  cities  of  Oakland  and 
Berkeley  and  the  Contra  Costa  hills  beyond  them, 
and  more  than  the  eye  can  hold,  until  he  reaches 

San  Quentin,  ll.i.  miles  from  San  Francis- 
co. It  is  situated  on  a  point  of  the  same  name 
on  the  west  shore  of  San  Pablo  Bay,  a  division  of 
the  Bay  of  San  Francisco.  Its  chief  importance 
is  derived  from  the  fact  of  its  being  the  residence 


I 


320 


TME  ^meiFic  TQwrntsw. 


/>  s- 


of  the  Lieutenant-Governor  of  the  State,  who  ex- 
offleio  has  charge  of  the  State's  convicts.  There 
are  usually  from  800  to  1500  of  these  persons  kept 
here  at  hard  labor.  The  work-shops  and  other 
buildings  are  on  the  left  of  the  railroad ;  and 
on  the  left,  and  directly  ahead,  is  Mt.  Tamalpait, 
the  loftiest  peak  in  this  recion.  A  T-\sh-out  near 
the  sunuriit  looks  like  a  shute  for  logs. 

Here  passcngeis  exchange  the  steamers  for  the 
earn,  neat  and  comfortable,  but  not  so  commo- 
dious as  those  of  a  broad-gauge  road.  In  a  few 
minutes'  ride  ono  will  be  at  the  town  of 

San  Rafael  (San  Ra-fell),  14  miles  from  San 
Francisco. 

It  is  the  county-seat  of  Marin  Ctunlj-,  and 
situated  in  a  valley  of  the  same  name,  about  a 
milb  in  width  and  foiu-  in  length.  It  is  built 
upon  the  former  site  of  the  old  Jesuitical  mission 
Oi  San  Rafael,  founded  in  1824.  The  town-site 
is  elevated,  and  on  gently  rolling  ground,  thus 
assuring  fine  views  of  the  bay  on  the  east  and  a 
favorable  sewerage.  As  the  soil  is  a  loose  gravel 
or  sandy  loam,  th  jre  is  no  malarial  influence  such 
83  renders  many  other  favored  localities  unheal- 
thy. It  is  completely  sheltered  from  the  ocean 
winds  and  fogs  by  the  surrounding  mountains, 
and  the  climate  is  mild  and  even,  the  mercury 
rarely  falling  below  40"  in  winter  or  rising  above 
90°  in  summer.  The  water  brought  from  Lagu- 
nitas  Creek,  750  feet  above  the  town,  on  Mt. 
Tamalpais,  is  pure  and  soft.  For  location, 
climatic  influences,  and  picturesque  scenery,  no 
place  in  this  part  of  the  State  can  equal  it.  It  is 
quite  a  sanitarium  for  uiany  in  San  Francisco 
who  suffer  from  the  cold  winds  and  damp  fogs. 

Mary  of  the  reeldences  are  elegant  and  costly. 
The  Court  House  was  erected  at  an  expense  of 
$60, 000.  Two  weekly  newspapers  are  published, 
the  Journal  and  Herald.  The  town  is  supplied 
with  gas,  and  the  roads  in  the  vic5nity  are  good 
and  afford  most  charming  drives. 

This  is  the  ^est  point  from  which  to  make  the 

Ascent  of  Mt.  Tamalpais, 

It  is  nearer  than  Sauceiito,  the  trail  is  better, 
and  the  variety  of  views  greater.  Horst^s  may  be 
procured  at  $2.50  and  13  ptr  day.  The  start 
should  be  made  as  near  daylight  as  possible,  and 
the  whole  trip  may  be  accomplished  in  about 
eight  hours.  The  height  of  the  wcEtem  summit, 
the  highest  point,  is  2606  feet.  Tb"  view  em^- 
braces  the  ocenn,  the  Golden  Gate,  the  bay,  San 
Francibcc,  Oakland,  and  many  other  towns,  and 
is  in  some  respects  more  diversified  and  prettier 
than  the  view  fn  m  Mt.  Diablo.  The  latter  is  far 
more  extensive.  San  Rafael  will  also  be  the  ter- 
minus of  the  Fetaluma  branch  of  the  San  Fran- 
cisco and  North  Pacific  R.  R. ,  the  main  line  ex- 
teniu«7  from  Donohue  to  Cloverdale.  This  branch 
forms  part  of  the  short  rout,e  to  the  Geysers. 
Junction,   17   milse   from  San  Francisco, 


Here  the  branch  unites  with  the  main  road  vut 
Sauceiito.  The  distance  from  San  Francisco  v 
17  miles  by  either  route. 

Sauceiito  is  six  miles  from  San  Francisco, 

The  stations  between  Sauceiito  and  Junction 
are  the  "  shops"'  of  the  company,  Lyford's, 
Summit,  Corte,  Madera,  and  Tamalpais.  The 
latter  is  at  the  foot  of  Mt.  Tamalpais,  but  i.s 
merely  an  accommodation  station,  without  a 
building  near  except  the  beautiful  residence  of 
Mr.  Kent,  a  retired  merchant  of  Chicago.  A 
trail  leads  to  the  summit  of  the  mountain  from 
his  house.  It  was  constructed  at  his  own  ex- 
pense, and  is  not  open  to  the  public. 

FdirfaXf  18.5  miles,  is  a  popular  picr.'c  re- 
sort. Leaving  these  grounds,  the  road  curves  to 
the  right  and  begins  ascending  to  reach  the  sum- 
mit of  White's  Hill.  The  grade  is  from  90  to 
120  feet  to  the  mile,  and  the  curves  in  some 
places  20  degrees.  At  one  point  the  road 
doubles  back  upon  itself,  so  that,  after  traversiig 
three  quarter?,  of  a  mile,  the  tracks  arc  not  a 
hundred  yards  apart.  At  no  place  so  near  San 
Francisco  em  there  be  had  as  good  an  idea  of 
the  mo j-.»,o:nou8  regions  of  California  as  in  cross- 
ing this  hill  and  descending  to  tide-water  on  the 
west.  The  crookedness  of  the  road  as  it  curves 
arouna  one  and  another  of  the  ravines  is  ex- 
tremely interesting. 

The  railroad  ascends  on  the  north  side  of  Ross 
Valley,  and  as  one  climbs  up  he  may  see  on  the 
left,  far  above  him,  the  wagon-road  from  San 
Rafael  to  Glema,  and  direct  ly  under  this  wagon- 
road  the  cars  pass  through  a  tunnel  400  feet  lung 
with  an  altitude  of  565  feet. 

At  the  summit  the  road  descends  into  the  val- 
ley of  San  Qeronimo  Creek  to  a  station  of  the 
same  name,  3  miles  from  which  is  Nicasio,  a 
small  villags  in  a  dai:y  region.  Lagunitas, 
another  small  station,  marks  a  creek  of  the  same 
name  flowing  from  the  nortli-west  side  of  Mt. 
Tamalpais.  The  valley  has  a  large  variety  of 
wild  flowers  in  the  spring,  and  at  all  seasons  an 
abundance  of  California  shrubbery,  such  as  the 
Ceanothus,  Manzanitu,  Madrona,  Oaks,  Buckeyes, 
and  some  Red-woods,  but  none  of  the  Douglass 
spruce  or  firs  peculiar  to  high  altitudes. 

As  the  cafion  narrows  the  scenery  becomes 
wilder,  and  the  road  follows  "Paper  Mill" 
Creek,  as  it  is  called,  from  the  *'  Pioneer  Paper 
Mill,"  the  first  mill  of  the  kind  on  the  Coast,  at 

TaylorviUe,  31^  miles  from  San  Francisco. 

The  creek  abounds  in  trout.  Near  Taylorvillc 
is  a  favorite  camping-ground  to  which  hundreds 
go  every  season  to  exchange  their  close  walb  in 
the  city  for  the  freedom  of  the  hills  and  wood^ 
and  brooks. 

Tocaioma  (Grove),  88.5  miles,  is  a  small 
station  in  a  dairy  region  tv,'o  miles  from  the  town 
of  Olema.  A  stage  runs  from  the  town  to  the 
trains.     Tbe  creek  i«  ciossed  and  recrossed,  and 


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one  embankment  is  1830  feet  long  ;  but  these  fire 
soon  piissed,  and  one  can  look  to  the  left  and  a 
little  ttehind  him,  as*  the  road  is  fairly  in  the  val 
ley,  and  see  the  town  of 

Olema,  38f  miles  from  San  Francisco.  On 
the  platform  will  be  seen  a  large  number  of  butter- 
boxes.  In  winter  passenger  trains  stop  for  dinner. 
Tri- weekly  stages  leave  for  Bolinas,  13  miles  south. 

The  general  course  of  ihe  road  is  now  more 
northerly,  to  Tomales  Bay,  and  one  quickly 
changes  from  the  tiout  streams  of  the  mountains 
to  enjoy  a  "  breath  of  the  salt  sea  gale." 

The  road  passes  along  the  northern  side  of  the 
bay  for  about  13  miles,  pnrt  of  the  time  on  the 
shore  and  part  on  piles.  The  bay  is  only  about 
a  mile  wide,  and  30  miles  long,  and  very  shallo\ '. 

Oysters  have  been  planted  in  it,  but  the  water 
has  proved  too  salt  for  their  successful  cul- 
tivation. The  bay  supplies  a  large  number  or 
fish,  and  in  it  are  found  an  abundance  of  smooth, 
hard-shell  clams,  the  only  source  of  this  variety 
of  shell-fish  for  the  Sun  Francisco  market.  All 
kinds  of  sea  fowl  are  abundant  during  the  sea- 
son. Along  the  l)ay  are  several  small  stations — 
Wharf  Point,  Millerton,  ilarshairs,  and  Hamlet 
'—from  which  butter,  fish,  and  game  are  shipp"d. 

After  passing  Hamlet,  the  road  curves  to  tlie 
right,  crossing  an  arm  of  the  bay,  or  Tomales 
Cre(!k,  and  follo>vs  up  the  »veat  bank  of  this  and 
winds  around  tlie  hills  to 

Tomales,  55|  miV-s. 

The  town  has  a  population  of  only  150,  but  the. 
country  is  thickly  settled  by  intelligent  dairy- 
and  ranch  men.  For  a  year  and  a  half  this  w  'S 
the  northern  terminus  of  the  road,  further  pro- 
gress being  delayed  by  the  wall  of  solid  rock 
seen  in  the  hills  to  the  north.  Here  ihe  comimi.y 
have  a  large  warehouse  lor  storing  grain  and 
freight.  In  clear  wcatber  Mt.  St.  Helena  can  be 
seen  in  the  north-east,  and  east  and  south-east  are 
the  snow-capped  Siervas. 

Soon  after  leaving  this  station,  the  road  pa^-os 
through  the  longest  tunnel  on  the  road,  1700 
feet  in  length,  reaches  Clark  Summit^  and,  de- 
scending, crosses  the  Estero  Americano,  on  a 
high  trestle,  and  enters  Sononm  County. 

VaUcji  Ford,  02^  fuiles,  is  a  pretty  little 
village  of  about  300  people.  It  is  in  llie  midst 
of  an  extensive  dairying  region.  Frequent  and 
heavy  fogs  coming  in  over  Hodega  Hay  cause  an 
abundance  of  grass,  and  prevent  severe  droughts. 
Valley  Ford  was  so  nami'd  from  the  crossing  of 
tlie  old  Spanish  t  ail  from  the  interior  ranches  to 
Tomales  Bay  and  tiio  coast.  Up  to  1857  tlie  In- 
dians niP  'e  two  or  three  trips  a  year,  to  procure 
sheli-iish  >  )r  eating  and  shells  for  the  manufac- 
ture of  money.  It  is  a  well-accredited  fact  that 
G'l  this  town  site  there  were  grown  in  1851  one 
iiundied  bushels  of  oats  to  tiie  acre. 

lioileqa  Roads,  65  miles,  is  the  depot  for 
Bodega  Corners  on  a  portien  o'  tiie  tract  formed 


by  the  Russians,  and  in  the  midst  of  the  potato-, 
growing  regions. 

Freestone,  06.5  miles,  was  settled  first  under 
direction  of  General  Vallejo  to  check  the  ad- 
vance of  the  Russians.  It  is  in  the  midst  of  a 
fertile  valley  and  rich  dairy  lands. 

Just  beyond  Freestone  the  road  enter.s  the 
belt  of  Red-woods  {Sequoia  Sempervireiis),  and  as- 
cends Salmon  Creek  toward  the  summit,  where 
the  waters  flow  north  into  Russian  River  and 
south  into  Bodega  Bay. 

On  this  ascent  the  road  crosses  one  of  the 
highest  bridges  west  of  the  Missi.ssippi  River. 
The  bridge  crosses  Brown  Canon,  has  two  spans 
of  Howe  truss,  each  150  feet  long,  and  is  at  tho 
giddy  height  of  137  feet  above  the  canon.  Tho 
central  pier  is  110  feet  high,  of  the  kind  called  a 
cluster  pier,  and  is  a  splendid  piece  of  mechanism. 

At  Howard's,  70^  miles,  the  road  is  at  the 
summit  and  fairly  in  the  red-wood  country.  To 
reach  this  timber  was  the  first  great  aim  of  tho 
road,  and  more  than  200,000  feet  of  lumber  are 
now  shipped  daily  from  the  mills  at  the  Russian 
River  and  along  the  line  of  the  road. 

The  stations  —  St-eeteii's  luilh,  Tyrone  Mill", 
Tlumnn  liicer,  Mvsrow  Milln,  and  DuncHu''s  Mills 
—  alike  show  the  business  of  the  country. 

Duncan's  Mills,  the  terminus,  is  HOi^  milea 
from  San  Fram  isca.  The  timber-land  is  usually 
held  in  large  tracts.  The  Russiaii  River  Land 
and  Lumber  Company,  of  which  (ioveinor  M.  S. 
Latham  was  first  president,  owns  10,0fl(»  acres  in 
a  body,  and  around  the  terminus  of  this:  road  it 
is  estimated  there  are  tiOO.OOO.OOO  feet  of  lumber — 
ei.oMgii  f()i-  ten  year.s'  cutting. 

At  the  terminus  of  the  road  is  Julian't  Hotel, 
one  of  the  best  in  the  State.  Austin  C'-eek 
empties  into  Russian  River  near  this  point.  It  is 
one  of  the  best  streams  for  trout  near  the  city. 
The  hills  abound  with  quail  and  rabbits,  whilo 
deer  and  grouse,  and  even  bears  and  wild-cats, 
may  be  occasionally  found  at  no  great  distance. 

In  the  river  salmon  can  be  caught  or  speared, 
and  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  only  six  miles  dis' 
tant,  a  variety  of  sea-fishing  may  be  had.  Con- 
sidering the  uncqualed  variety  of  beautiful 
scenery  on  the  line  of  so  short  a  road,  and  the 
charming  picturesque  re-ion  in  which  the  road 
terminates,  the  climate,  game,  and  amusementa 
to  be  had  in  the  vicinity,  no  spot  deserves  to  be 
more  favored  by  the  toarist  who  has  not  enough 
time  to  acquaint  himself  with  the  hunting  and 
fishing  grounds  of  Nortiiern  California. 

The  Northern  Coast  stages  leave  daily  for  Fort 
Ross,  16  miles  ;  Henry's,  1(5  miles  ;  Timber  Cove, 
20  miles  ;  Salt  Toint,  25  miles  ;  Fisk's  Iilills,  30 
miles  ;  Stewart's  Point,  34  miles  ;  Gualala,  44 
K.iles  ;  Fish  liock,  50  miles  ;  Point  Arena,  60 
miles  ;  Manchester,  06  miles  ;  CulTey's  Cove,  80 
miles  ;  Navarro  Ridge,  86  miles  ;  and  Mendocino 
City,  00  miles.     Fare,  about  12  i  cents  a  mile. 


M 


A- 


822 


San  Franciaco  and  North  Pacific  RaUroad, 


This  road  was  built  mainly  by  the  president, 
Mr.  Donahue,  nnd  has  rapidly  developed  a  rich 
section  of  country,  and  is  the  great  highway  for 
nearly  all  of  Sonoma  County.  The  road  extends 
from  Donahue  to  Cloverdale,  and  is  connected 
witli  San  Francisco  by  a  ferry  of  ii  t  miles. 

There  is  also  a  branch  from  San  Rafael  to  Pet£> 
luma,  and  by  a  connection  with  the  Ferry  to 
San  Quentin  and  the  San  Francisco  and  North 
Pacific  Coast  Narrow  Gauge,  a  continuous  and 
pleasant  and  the  shortest  route  is  formed  from 
San  Francisco  to  Clovei'dalo  and  the  Govsers, 
The  train  over  this  branch  leaves  San  Fran- 
cisco in  the  morning  and  reaches  Cloverdale  in 
time  for  dinner.  Tourists  for  the  Gejsors 
should  make  sure  of  this  morning  train,  so  ns 
to  reach  tho  Geysers  the  same  day.  The  steamer 
*  James  M.  Donohue  "  leaves  tlie  Washington 
Street  wharf,  San  Francisco,  every  day  to  con- 
nect with  the  cars  at  Donohue. 

Donahii€f  34  miles  frcm  San  Francisco,  is 
on  Potaluma  Creek,  and  is  simply  a  place  for 
the  transfer  of  passengers  and  freight  from  cars 
to  steamer  or  vice  verm. 

The  route  from  San  Francisco  to  Donahue  is 
north  and  north-east,  the  steamer  taking  the 
course  to  ValJejo  or  tho  Sacramento  River  imtil 
Rfcd  Rock  is  passed,  then  heading  for  tho  north- 
east corner  of  San  Pablo  Bay. 

liUkevUlef  35  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is  a 
small  station  at  wliich  passengers  for  Sonoma 
are  transferred  to  stages.  The  distance  is  seven 
miles,  and  the  faro  from  San  Francisco  to 
Sonoma,  -^  30.  Sonoma  Valley  is  celobratod 
for  its  winea  ?nd  delightful  climate. 

The  Sonoma  Valley  is  about  25  miles  long,  and 
forms  but  a  small  part  of  the  country.  Tlic  mis- 
sion of  Sonoma  was  planted  July  4th,  1823,  near 
the  present  Catholic  church,  and  was  destroyed 
by  the  Indians  in  182(1,  and  rebuilt  in  the  follow- 
ing year,  Tho  present  town  was  laid  out  by 
General  Vallejo  in  1834,  and  the  struggle  against 
the  Russians  for  possession  of  the  country  was 
carried  on  from  this  point  for  some  years.  Here 
a  company  of  thirty-three  Americans  from  Sut- 
ter's Fort  made  a  jjrisoncr  of  General  Vallejo, 
the  Spanish  commander  of  California,  and  raised 
the  Bear  Flag,  the  standard  of  the  pioncci  soci- 
eties of  the  State.  Among  t'lose  stationed  at 
Bonoma  prior  to  183i  were  Lieutenant  Der|)y,  Gen- 
erals HooTrer,  Stoncman  and  Sherman. 

The  Sonoma  Creek  runs  through  the  valley,  and 
a  small  steamer  runs  from  its  mouth  to  San  Fran- 
cisco. A  Narrow  Gunr;e  Itnihrni/  connects  the 
town  of  Sonoma  witli  the  bay  near  the  mouth 
•^f  tlie  creek. 

L'etaluiHHf  42  miles  from  San  Francisco,  was 
long  the  largest  and  principal  city  in  the  county. 
Its  name  is  of  Indian  origin  but  doubtful  sig- 


niilcation.  It  is  built  on  undulating  ground, 
which  affonls  good  drainage  and  a  fine  view  ol 
the  valley  and  mountains  beyond  it.  Mt.  St. 
Helena  and  the  Geyser  Peak  are  visible  from  tlie 
t<.\vn.  The  climate  is  mild  and  pleasant,  and  tlio 
town  one  of  the  healthiest  in  the  State.  It  w;is 
hiid  out  in  1852,  and  has  been  the  general  ship- 
])ing-point  for  tlie  produce  of  Sonoma  and  Men- 
docino counties.  It  has  a  steamer  running  di- 
rectly to  the  city,  from  a  point  on  the  creek  ;i 
short  distance  below  the  city,  and  stages  to  So- 
noma vtn  Lakeville.  It  has  wati-r-works,  gas, 
good  schools,  six  churches,  three  banks,  and 
*\vo  weekly  papers. 

Leaving  Petaluma,  the  course  of  the  road  is 
northward  through  Petaluma  Valley,  whidi 
opens  into  Santa  Rosa,  and  this  irio  Russian 
River  Valley.  The  three  valleys  are  in  fact  one 
great  valley. 

Ely's,  Penn's  Grove,  Goodwin's,  Page's, 
Coyote  Ranch,  and  Oak  Grove  are  all  small 
stations  in  a  licii  agricultural  region. 

I'enn'.s  Grove  is  near  the  low  divide  where  tlie 
waters  Ht)W  south  into  I'etalunia  Cieek.and  north 
into  itussian  Uiver.  The  Cjyole  Ranch  is  four 
leagues  in  extent. 

Sunfn  iiomi,  bl  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
is  one  of  the  most  heautifuUy  situated  towns  of 
the  Mate,  and  its  inhabitants,  whether  natives  of 
New  Jersey  or  not,  consider  it  superior  to  every 
city  in  the  Union.  Its  recent  progress  has  been 
more  rapid  than  any  other  interior  town.  It  has 
a  population  of  about  7000,  is  tlie  county  seat  of 
Sonoma  County,  and  has  a  street  railroad,  nirtu 
mileft  of  streets,  water-works,  gas,  a  daily  and  two 
weekly  newspaperB,  two  banks,  eight  churclus, 
two  colleges.  Prof.  Jones'  academy  for  boys. 
Miss  Chase's  school  for  girls,  and  other  private 
nnd  public  schools.  One  of  the  colleges  —  the 
Pacific  Methodist — is  under  the  control  of  the 
Methodist  Episcopal  Church  South.  The  build- 
ings and  grounds  are  valued  at  $30,000.  The 
other- -the  Christian  College — is  under  the  con- 
trol of  the  Christian  Church,  and  is  valued  at 
$35,000. 

Mucli  of  the  prosperity  of  Santa  Rosa  is  due  to 
these  two  collfgcss.  Several  hundred  young  oi' 
both  scxi's  are  brought  by  them  to  study  in  tlie 
town,  nnd  many  jiarents,  retiring  from  active 
business,  make;  Santa  Rosa  their  jionie  on  accovii.t 
of  its  educational  advantages.  Two  and  a  half 
miles  west  of  Santa  Hosa  are  the  White  8'il;.i;'n" 
Springs,  a  pleasant  resort,  nnd  nine  -.-.AicH  to  tia. 
north-east  on  \hv.  rond  to  Cnlistoga.  r/«tiie  T'c 
ficd  Forest,  are  the  JIark  West  Springs,  buiiri- 
fuily  located  in  a  bend  of  the  Mark  W'>t 
Cnsek. 

Quite  a  romantic  history  is  .onmcted  with  lln' 
name   of  the  creek,  town,  and  valley.     In  brit  f, 


Frip.f  An 

made  an 

1829  and 

Cainemer 

Chocoaloi 

Rosa,  bee 

day  of  thi 

attacked 

name  rem 

The  clii 

ant,  a  gr 

coast  and 

Santa  F 

and  espcc 

in  f'ont  o 

Mut'  tio  /■ 

A  -/n  I,.  ■;: 

(■■•:,•.■  : 

br.uu'jii^s, 

of  22  feet. 

4000  roses 

as  many  o 

Of  sevei 

dental  is  t 

Fulton 

point  of  d 

ville  Hran( 

the  Russia 

are  Meach 

ley,  Korbt 

branch  is 

At  Korh 
served  fro 
tastefully 
the  RussI' 
can's  Mill- 
Coast  (nai 
A  visit 
pay  the  1< 
are  peeulii 
found  in  C 
or  the  Sier 
the  lumbei 
the  Ceritni 
years  in  tl 
true  to  the 
grow  to  a 
est  being 
An  acre  of 
"Rig  Be 
The  large, 
ter,  a' id  in 
est  tree  wj 
one  of  the 
standing. 

Ihere 
vile,  and 
re' 1- wood 
of  the  die 
of  which 
$15to|17 


T 


323 


Friar  Amorosa,  a  zealous  Catliolic  missionary, 
made  aa  excursion  north-east  from  San  llafael  in 
1829  and  captured  an  Indian  maiden  of  the 
Cainemeros  tribe,  and  baptized  her  in  the  river 
Chocoahimi,  and  gave  lier  t-'s  name  of  Santa 
Rosa,  because  the  day  of  the  -uaptism  was  the 
day  of  tiie  feast  of  Santa  Rosa  de  Lima,  lie  was 
attacited  by  the  natives  and  driven  back,  but  the 
name  remains  and  is  honored  to-day. 

Tile  climate  of  Sant  i  Rosa  is  mild  and  pleas- 
ant, a  grateful  mean  between  the  cold  of  the 
coast  and  the  heat  of  the  interior  valleys. 

Santa  Rosa  boasts  of  its  exuberant  vegetation, 
and  especially  its  mammoth  rose-bush.  This  is 
in  f'oiit  of  the  Grand  Hotel,  and  is  of  the  La 
Miir,""  .-iricty,  with  a  pure  v/hite  blossom.  The 
1  ;  n  ..  ires  24  i-^ohes  in  circumference  at  the 
(  '.  w,  u.i  J  rows  to  a  height  of  12  feet  without 
briuiclii>«!,  and  in  all  27  feet  high,  with  a  width 
of  22  feet.  It  was  planted  in  1858,  and  has  had 
4000  roses  in  full  bloom  at  one  time,  with  twice 
as  many  opening  buds. 

Of  several  good  hotels  in  Santa  Rosa,  the  Occi- 
dental is  the  best. 

Fulton^  01  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is  the 
point  of  divergence  of  the  Fulton  and  Guerne- 
ville  Branch,  leading  to  the  red-wood  forests  on 
the  Russian  River.  The  stations  on  this  branc  h 
are  Meacham's,  Lagunii,  Forestville,  Green  Val- 
ley, Korbel's,  and  Guerneville.  The  length  of  this 
brunch  is  10  miles. 

At  Korhel's  some  of  the  enormous  trees  are  pro- 
served  from  cutti"g  or   injury  and  t'le  grounds 
ta.steful'y  fitted  ^■..>  '"(m  jiicnics.     Guerneville  is  on 
the  Russi  vn  Ri' 
can's  Mills,  ♦^'. 


,  .:)i:ly  a  few  miles  iibove  Dun- 
•n>v  ,.is  of  the  North  Pacific 
Coast  (narr.    '  j.    iL-f^  "tilroad. 

A  visit  to  i:;e  ■  v's  of  the  red-woods  will  re- 
pay the  tourist,  f(  ^heai!  {Sequoia  iSempenirens) 
are  peculiar  tl  ;<.  :  mountains.  None  are 
found  in  Oreg.,n,  V.'.«aiiington  Territory,  Mexico, 
or  the  Sierra  Nevadas.  It  is  the  chief  material  for 
the  lumber  of  th(!  State.  It  was  used  for  ties  for 
the  Central  Pacific  Railrord,  and  lasts  for  many 
years  in  the  ground.  No  other  wood  splits  so 
true  to  the  grain  Some  of  the  trees  are  said  to 
grow  to  a  diam  '.  r  t  f  twenty-five  feet,  tiie  larg- 
est being  in  Mein  '  '  o  and  HumboMt  counties. 
An  acre  of  .  ese  tu'cs  ncir  Guerneville.  on  the 
"  Big  Bl.  Oi..."  yielded  800,000  feet  of  lumber. 
The  largest  i''  '  .i  thf-re  was  18  feet  in  diame- 
ter, a'id  mail  :  J.OOO  eet  of  lumber.  The  tall- 
est tree  was  'i'Ai  feet  in  height  taller  than  any 
one  of  the  "  Big  Trees"  (Seijuoiu  Gigaiitea)  now 
Stan. ling. 

There  aro  three  large  saw-mills  near  Giierne- 
viJe,  and  others  on  the  line  of  the  road.  In  the 
re'l-wood  forests  there  is  also  found  an  abundance 
of  the  chestnut  oak  (Qneirux Deimithra),  tlie  bark 
of  which  is  used  for  tanning,  and  brings  from 
$15  to  $17  a  cord  in  San  Francisco. 


Mark    Went,    Windsnr,    and    Grant's 

arc  small  stations  ;  and 

Ilealdsbufff,  72  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
is  beautifully  located  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
Russian  River,  with  Dry  Creek  and  its  valley 
west  of  the  town.  Near  the  town  is  Sotoyome 
or  Fitch  Mountain,  a  butte  around  which  Rus- 
sian River  winds  its  course.  The  town  was  laid 
out  in  1850,  and  has  a  population  of  nearly  3000. 
It  has  a  bank,  seven  churches,  two  weekly 
papers,  and  the  Alexander  Academy,  under  the 
supervision  of  Rev.  8.  H.  Thomas,  LL.D.,  a 
Presbyterian  minister,  who  for  many  years  was 
a  professor  iu  Hanover  College,  Indiana. 

llealdsburg  has  a  delightful  climate,  and  is 
convenient  to  the  range  of  mountains  on  either  the 
Biist  or  west  side  of  the  valley,  where  trout, 
quail,  rabbits,  and  deer  may  be  found  in  abund- 
ance. 

Near  Healdsburg  are  several  places  of  resort, 
among  them  '"Magnolia  Farm,"  and  Mrs.  Mil- 
ler's, and  the  celebrated  Litton  Seltzer  Springs. 
The  station  of 

Litton  Springs  is  near  the  hotel  and  spring. 
The  buildings  were  erected  at  a  cost  of  $80,- 
000,  and  are  not  equaled  by  those  connected 
with  any  mineral  spring  in  th*  State. 

They  are  now  used  as  a  boarding  school  for 
boys. 

The  situation  is  charming,  in  a  broad  plateau 
overlooking  Alexander  Valley  and  tlie  course  of- 
the  Russian  River  for  miles,  and  flanked  on  three 
sides  by  mountain  peaks.  The  water  is  bottled 
and  sold  in  San  Francisco  in  large  quantities,  and 
has  been  carefully  analyzed. 

Geyservillef  80  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is 
the  station  for  Skagg's  Springs.  The  valley  has 
become  quite  narrow  at  this  j)oint.  The  springs 
pre  eight  miles  west  of  Geyserville,  at  the  head 
of  Dry  Creek  Valley.  There  are  hot  sul))hur 
springs,  a  soda  spri  ig,  iron  spring,  and  luxurious 
baths.  The  situation  is  beautiful — one  of  liio 
most  charming  of  a.l  the  mineral  springs  in  the 
State 

Truett":'  is  a  sma'l  station  ;  and 

Cloverdalc,  the  terminus,  is  90  miles  from 
San  Francisco.  It  is  at  the  head  of  the  valley,  and 
on  Russian  River,  with  romantic  and  picturesque 
scenery  on  every  hand.  It  has  about  a  dozen 
stores,  two  hotels,  two  churches,  and  one  news- 
paper, the  Weekli/  CloverdaU  Neuca.  The  pop- 
ulation is  about  700. 

From  Cloverdale  there  is  an  excellent  road  to 
the  Geysers,  with  no  grade  exceeding  four  feet 
to  the  hundred,  and  the  stages  of  Van  Arnara 
«&  Keiuu'dy  are  of  the  most  approved  i)attern, 
anil  the  distance,  1(5  miles,  has  been  rnadt!  in  an 
hour  anil  a  half.  The  fare  for  the  round  trip  is 
$4.50. 

Stages  run  from  (Jlovcrdale  every  day  t) 
Ukiah,  the  county  town  of  Mendocino  County, 


■  >■■(' 


824 


u  • 


31  miles  (fare  from  San  Francisco,  $7.75),  and 
to  Mendocino  on  the  sea-coast,  75  miles  (fare, 
$11.50). 

Cloverdale  has  daily  stages  also  to  the  many 
places  of  resort  in  Lake  County — to  Kelseyville, 


Soda  Bay,  Highland  Springs,  Witter  Springs  {rin 
Ukiali  or  via  Upper  Lake),  Lakeport,  Pierson's 
Springs,  and  connections  for  (Henbrook  or  Hiis- 
setfs,  Adams,  Sulphur  Banks,  Howard  Springs, 
Blue  Lakes,  and  Bartlett^s  Bpriiigs. 


Oregon  Division   of  the   Central  Pacific  Railroad  to  Marys- 

ville,  Mt.   Shasta,  Northern  California  Railroad  to 

Oroville,   and  Overland  Route    to  Oregon 

and  Washing   :  ^  Territory. 


All  trains  over  the  Oregon  Division  going  north 
are  made  up  at  Sacramento,  and  leave  the  main 
line  of  the  Central  Pacific  at  Kosevilh;  Junction, 
18.2  miles  east. 

Tlie  general  direction  of  the  road  is  north, 
through  a  grazing  and  wheat-growing  section  to 
the  foot-hills  at  the  head  of  the  Sacramento  Val- 
ley. 

Whitney's  is  a  signal  station  ;  and 

Lincoln,  2S.1  miles  from  Sacramento,  has  a 
coal  deposit  near  the  village  of  300  ])eople,  which 
supplies  fuel  for  i.ianufacturing  purposes.  Tiie 
manufacture  of  pottery  and  scw('r-i)i])e  from  clay 
convenient  to  the  railroad  is  also  an  important 
industry. 

Tlie  Marysville  Buttes,  2030  feet  high,  are  a 
landmark  in  every  jwrtion  of  the  upjur  Sacra- 
mento Valley,  and  are  always  seen  when  going 
north,  on  the  left-hand  side  of  the  road. 

JEwiUfi  is  a  signal  station,  and 

Sheridan  a  little  village  near  Bear  River. 
The  soil  on  the  south  side  is  mostly  light,  and 
the  land  used  for  pasturing  sheej)  and  cattle. 

Bear  River  Channel  has  been  entirely  filled  with 
debris  from  the  mines  above;  and  from  this 
source  a  great  contest  has  arisen  in  tin  State  be- 
tween the  agricultural  and  mining  interests,  and 
it  is  yet  undecided. 

Wheatland,  39.0  miles,  has  a  ])opulation  of 
about  800,  and  a  weekly  news[)ai)er,  the  licrordcr. 
The  prineij)al  trade  is  in  wheat  and  flour. 

Heed's  and 

Yuba  are  both  signal  stations. 

As  the  road  aj)prniH  lies  3Inrysville,  it  crosses  the 
Yuba  River.  Like  Bear  River,  the  eliaiinel  has 
been  filled  up  many  feet  in  places,  and  high 
levees  are  required  on  each  side,  especially  dur- 
ing the  winter  rains. 

Marysville,  52.4  miles  from  Sacramento,  is 
at  the  confluence  of  the  Yuba  and  Feather  riv- 
ers, is  the  county  town  of  Yuba  County,  has  a 
population  of  5000,  wide  and  regular  streets,  is 
the  home  of  the  Roman  Catholic  bisliop,  lias  large 
Cati.olic  educatioinil  institutions  and  good  Prot- 
estant schools,  is  lighted  with  gas,  has  water  from 
an  arte  'an  well  300  feet  deep,  has  six  clmrche.s, 
bunks,   foundries,  machine-shops,  wholesale  and 


rt'  ores,  and  numerous  fiotels.     'Hie 'Westorn 

Hot.  •  one  of  the  best  outside  of  San  Francisco. 
There  is  one  daily  ])a]ier,  the  Mtri/sril/e  Aj'/'<iil. 
Oranges  and  lemons  grow  well  in  and  around  tlie 
city,  and  the  private  residences  are  usually  sur- 
rounded by  choice  fruit  or  shade  trees  and  a  rare 
wealth  of  roses  and  flowers.  The  ])rosperity  nf 
Marysville  was  very  griTit  when  there  was  no  mil- 
road  extending  nf)rthward  and  the  miiu's  were 
yielding  well,  and  now  the  city  is  building  up 
again,  and  building  solidly  on  the  trade  of  the  sur- 
rounding country,  and  especially  on  that  of  Sutter 
County,  across  the  Feather  River. 

It  has  two  stage-lines  daily  to  Colusa,  28  miles 
west,  and  also  stages  to  (Jrass  Valley,  3.'»  miles  ; 
North  San  Juan,  ;fH  miles  ;  La  Porte,  (55  liiiles  ; 
and  Downieville,  07  miles. 

Marj-.svil'  has  been  flooded  several  times,  but 
is  now  surrMinded  by  higli  and  strong  levees,  and 
considered  saf(!  against  any  floods.  Just  across 
the  Feather  River  is  YuImi  Vitji,  the  coimty  town 
of  Sutter  ('oimty,  with  a  ]iopulati()n  of  800.  It 
is  at  the  head  of  steamboat  navigation  ;  has  one 
weekly  newspaper,  the  Hvttcf  lUnmcr.  About 
eight  miles  below  the  city  is  the  "  Hock  Farm," 
the  olil  home  of  Oeneral  Sutter,  so  renowned  for 
hospitality  in  the  Pioneer  days  of  California. 

At  .Marysville  j)assengers  going  north  take 
supper,  and  going  south  take  breakfast,  and  pas- 
sengers for  OrrlUe  (distance  28  milfs),  eliangi^ 
cars,  taking  at  the  di'pot  of  the  Central  Pacitic 
roa.l  those  of  THK  NORTHKRX  CAM- 
l^OKXIA  RAILROAD,  which  connects  closely 
with  tlie  Central  Pacitic  and  reaches  the  follow- 
ing stations. 

Honout  is  ita  only  .station,  and  an  unimport- 
ant oil". 

Orovllle  the  northern  terminus,  has  a  pojiu- 
lation  of  I.'jOO,  and  is  the  coimty  seat  of  Butio 
County.  Its  placer-mines,  once  fabulously  ricii, 
are  now  wori<ed  chiefly  by  Chinamen,  but  tlie 
mining  interests  in  the  foot-hills  make  Oroviilii 
the  seat  of  a  considerable  trade.  It  has  stages  to 
Cheroke(!  Flat,  12  miles  ;  La  Portti,  45  miles  ; 
Susanville,  Ho  miles  ;  Chieo,  25  miles  ;  and  Bigg'-i 
Station,  12  luUes.  Oroville  has  one  church  i 
union  church.     During    the  summer   nearlj    all 


the  familiei 
to  the  mom 
After  lea 
the  Featlie 
liom  the  d( 
Jjomo  a 
Gi'idleff 
ishing  tow: 
ranches,     f 
12  miles  (f; 
lie/jiiiter,  an 
All  this 
v.'heat-field, 
are  on  cverj 
North  of 
the  Cherok 
long  and  4 
channels  of 
sediment  ov 
Nelson  i 
in  a  rich  sec 
Chico, !) 
prosperous 
IS  G.OOO.    It 
gas,  supplie 
has  several 
the   Chieo 
liecord,    and 
Sierra   Finn 
structed  sev 
Nevada  Moi 
on  the  railrcl 
at  Chico,  ai 
The  beau 
cami,'  to  Ca 
and  who  ha 
prising  citi> 
orchard   is 
almonds,     ^ 
truits,  and 
liome,areu 
has  32,000 1 
Chico  ha< 
OVeenville, 
County,  05 
miles  ;  Day 
14  miles  ;  ( 
miles  ;    an( 
Colusa  for 
and  for  Alb 
Stages  ru 
to  St.  John 
Range,  35 
fare  is  from 

Nord, 
Sesnia  are 
country. 

The  Sacr 
near 

Tehanii 
population 


W"""' 


1 


325 


the  families  desert  the  place  and  take  themselves 
to  the  mountains  to  escape  the  intense  lieut. 

After  leavinpf  Marysville,on  the  Central  Pacific, 
the  Feather  River  is  crossed,  about  two  miles 
liom  the  depot. 

Liomo  and  Live  Oak  are  flag  stations  ;  and 

Oi  idley  and  lilggft  are  both  new  and  flour- 
ishing towns,  named  from  the  owners  of  large 
ranches.  From  Biggs  there  is  a  stage  to  Oroville, 
13  miles  (fane,  $1).  IJiggshasaweekly  paper,  the 
Ite/jintei;  and  a  population  of  about  1000. 

AH  this  upper  Sacramento  Valley  is  a  vast 
v.'heat-field,  and  evidences  of  its  productiveness 
are  on  every  hand. 

North  of  Biggs  the  road  crosses  the  canal  of 
the  Cherokee  Flat  Mining  Company,  18  miles 
long  and  400  feet  \>iile,  but  tilled  up  like  the 
channels  of  the  rivers,  and  extending  its  smooth 
sediment  over  the  acres  on  either  side. 

Nelson  and  Durham  are  small  stations,  but 
in  a  ricli  section. 

Chico,  !).1.7  miles,  is  one  of  the  best  and  most 
prosperous  towns  of  Calil'ornia.     Its  ])opulation 

13  0,000.  It  lias  five  eluu-ciu's,  is  lighted  with 
gas,  supplied  with  pure  water  from  Chico  '^re.  k, 
has  several  banks  and  hotels  (tlie  principal  on  • 
the  Chico  House),  has  one  dally  paper,  the 
Jlecord,  and  one  weekly,  the  Enterprise.  The 
Sierra  Fhinie  and  Lumber  Company  have  con- 
structi'd  several  V'-shaped  flumes  from  the  Sierra 
Nevada  Mountains  on  th,!  east  to  dillerent  jjoiuts 
on  the  railroad.  One  of  these  flumes  terminates 
at  Chico,  and  is  155  miles  long. 

The  beautiful  home  of  General  Bidwcll,  who 
cami' to  (California  jirior  to  the  "gold  fever," 
and  who  has  always  been  one  of  her  most  enter- 
prising citizens,  is  just  north  of  the  town.  His 
orchard  is  filled  with  orangis,  lemons,  figs, 
almonds,  walnuts,  and  the  choicest  of  other 
truits,  and  his  vegetables,  tlowor  gardens,  and 
home,  are  unequalled  in  Northern  Califoruia.  He 
has  32,000  acres  of  the  choicest  land  in  one  tract. 

Chico  has  a  daily  stage  to  Oro'.  ille,  2")  miles  ; 
oVeenville,  GO  miles  ;  and  Big  iMeadows,  Plumas 
County,  05  miles;  Big  Valley,  Lassoii  County,  80 
miles  ;  Dayton,  Butler  County,  0  miles  ;  Jacinto, 

14  mik^s  ;  Germuntown,  115  miles  ;  Willows,  56 
miles;  and  Colusa,  40  miles  —  connecting  at 
Colusa  for  Williams  on  the  Northern  Ilailway, 
and  lor  Allen  and  Bartlett's  Springs. 

Stages  run  Mondays,  Wednesdays,  and  Fridays 
to  St.  John,  10  miles  ;  uriand,  23  miles  ;  Coast 
Range,  85  niiles  ;  and  Newville,  40  miles.  The 
fare  is  from  ten  to  fifteen  cents  a  mile. 

Nordf  Anita,  Cana,  Soto,  Vina,  and 
Sennia  are  all  small  stations,  but  iu  a  lertile 
country. 

The  Sacramento  River  is  crossed  on  a 


bridge 


near 


Tehama,  122.8  miles  from  Sacranicnto.     Tlu 
population  of  the  town  is  ucarlj*  1000^  and  the 


people  have  a  daily  paper,  the  'locum.  Tlie 
place  was  first  called  "  Hall's  Crossing."  It  is 
the  tormimis  of  n  flumo  40  miles  long,  erected 
by  the  Sierra  Flume  and  Lumber  Co.  Last 
sen's  Peak,  with  an  altitude,  according  to  Prof. 
George  Davidson,  of  the  United  States  Coast 
Survey,  of  10,050  feet,  may  be  seen  in  the  north- 
west. 

Red  Bluff,  134.9  miles,  is  the  county  seat  of 
Tehama  County,  with  200  inhabitants.  It  is  at 
liie  head  of  river  navigation  in  the  midst  of  rich 
land,  and  is  the  termiims  of  another  flume  of  the 
Sierra  Flume  and  Lumber  Company.  It  has  two 
weekly  newspapers,  the  Sentind  and  PeojAe^a 
Caiine.  Mt.  Shasta  may  be  seen  in  fair  weather, 
far  away  to  the  north. 

Hooker  and  Jiuckeye  are  signal  stations  ; 
and 

Cottonwood,  151.9  miles,  on  Cottonwood 
Creek,  is  a  small  village  of  300  people  ;  and 

AnflerHou\H  is  a  village  of  200  people,  158.0 
miles  from  Sacramento  ;  and 

Clear  Creek,  a  small  station  near 

lietlditig,  the  present  terminus  of  the  road. 
The  population  of  Redding  is  about  500.  It  ia 
l()i).7  miles  from  Sacramento. 

Stages  leave  Redding  daily  for  Shasta,  Scott's 
Valley,  W^eaverville,  and  Yroka,  and  for  Cami> 
bell's  Soda  Springs,  69  miles  ;  Sisson's,  at  the 
foot  of  Mt.  Shasta,  77  ailcs  ;  Yreka,  114  miles  ; 
Jacksonville,  174  mih.,  and  Roseburg,  Oregon, 
275  miles.  The  fure  is  fifteen  cents  a  mile. 
Through  fare  from  San  Francisco  to  Portland, 
^0.     On  this  route  are 

Tite  Head  Waters  of  tlie  Sacram,€nto 
liiver  and  Mount  Slumta, -For  further  in- 
formation of  this  region  see  pages  303  and  304. 
By  this  route  tho  tourist  to  Oregon  may  ascend 
Mount  Shasta,  from  Sisson's,  or  stoiJ  for  the 
best  hunting  and  fishing  in  the  world  there  or 
at  many  other  jjoints  on  the  way.     The  lofty 

f)eak3  of  tho  mountain  ranges,  and  the  count- 
ess volcanic  butti>s  of  Shasta  Valley,  the  bare 
rocks,  the  dark  forests,  the  bright  moss,  the 
bracing  atmosphere,  tho  frequent  storms  play- 
ing around  tho  whito  cap  of  Shasta — every- 
thing on  tho  route  is  either  charming  or 
majestically  grand.  A  part  of  tho  road  is  cut 
out  of  tho  side  of  a  mountain,  and  some  of  it 
nearly  2,0li0  feet  above  the  bed  of  tho  creek  in 
which,  for  years,  was  tho  only  road  for  the  emi- 
grant l)etwe(>n  northern  California  and  Oregon, 
— a  road  alternating  in  deep  jiools  and  among 
mighty  boulders.  One  mountain  descent 
stretches  toward  the  north  for  eleven  consccu- 
tivo  miles,  but  tho  location  of  the  road  was  ex- 
cellently engineered,  and  tho  road  equipped 
with  powerful  horses,  tho  best  Concord  eoaehoa 
and  most  skillful  drivers.  Tho  275  niilea  aro 
made  in  two  days,  aiul  no  stage-rido  on  tho 
whole  Pacific  coast  is  more  delightful. 


,  f 


xuml  t0  ©regoH 


NOBTHERN  CALIFORNIA,  ANIi  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY, 


Some  of  the  finest  scenery  on  the  continent  is 
to  be  found  in  Oregon  and  Washington  Territory. 
The  tourist  eti  route  to  this  from  San  Francisco 
may  take  a  steamer  of  the  Pacific  Coast  Steam- 
ship Company,  or  the  Pacific  Mail  SteamsJjip 
Company,  or  the  Oregon  Steamship  Company. 
There  are  two  or  three  steamers  a  week  at  all 
seasons. 

Or,  if  one  desire  to  see  the  country  and  avoid 
the  ocean,  let  him  take  the  Central  Pacific  Kail- 
road  to  Redding,  a  id  the  stages  of  the  California 
and  Oregon  Stage  rJompany  to  Koseburg.  The 
whole  275  miles  of  stage  route  is  through  the 
most  beautiful,  wild,  and  sublime  scenery.  The 
road  follows  the  valley  of  the  Sacramento  River 
to  its  head-waters  at  the  foot  of  Mt.  Shasta,  14,- 
444  feet  high,  and  passes  along  the  base  of  this 
lofty,  sno\''-capped  and  glacier-clad  butte.  (See 
"  Hcau  .-^t  rs  of  the  Sacramento  and  Mt.  Shas- 
ta.") It  then  crosses  the  Siskiyou  and  Rogue 
River  Mountains,  and  passes  over  either  high 
mountains  on  easy  grades  or  through  canons  and 
narrow  valleys  for  its  entire  length. 

At  Roseburg  the  stage  connects  with  the  cars 
of  the  Oregon  and  California  Railroad,  200  miles 
from  Portland.  The  route  is  thence  to  and 
through  the  Willamette  Valley — 50  miles  by  150 
— the  "  garden  of  the  north-west,"  pronounced  by 
ex- Vice-President  Colfax  "  as  charming  a  land- 
scape as  ever  painter's  brush  placed  upon  can- 
vas." 

En  route  to  Portland  one  may  visit  Salem,  the 
capital,  and  other  thriving  towns  iu  the  Wil- 
lamette Valley,  and  the  beautiful  Fnlh  of  the 
Willamette  at  Oregon  City  ;  and  from  Portland 
go  to  Puget  Sound  and  British  \-olumbia  up  the 
cafion  of  the  Fraser  River  from  Victoria  ;  or  from 
Portland  or  Victoria  to  Alaska  ;  or  to  Astoria, 
near  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  River  ;  or  up  the 
Columbia  to  the  Dalles  and  Wallula,  and  there 
either  take  rail  30  miles  to  Walla  Walla,  or  pro- 
ceed up  the  Columbia  to  Priest's  Rapids,  or  u]) 
the  Snake  River  to  Lewiston  in  Idaho,  the  head 
of  navigation. 

Portland  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  WiUam- 
ette,  the  site  slopinar  back  to  hills  from  which  can 
be  seen  Mounts  Hood,  Adam<i,  Ranier,  and  St. 
Helens,  and  four  magnificent  domes. 

Mt.  Hood  is  tiie  great  central  figure  of  Oregon, 


rearing  his  lofty  head  as  a  snow-white  pyramid, 
and  forming  a  pleasant  background  to  many  a 
charming  view. 

Tlie  (Jotunibia  Biver,the  second  largest  vol- 
ume of  fresh  water  in  the  world,  is  mighty  and 
beautiful  in  itself  and  its  distant  surroundings. 
No  one  who  sees  can  ever  forget  the  lands  tiiat 
lie  at  its  entrance  to  the  sea.  The  beauty  goes 
far  to  compensate  for  passing  over  one  of  the 
roughest  bars  in  the  world.  All  is  grand  be- 
tween Astoria  and  Portland,  and  from  Portland 
to  the  Cascades  the  whole  route  is  without  uny 
thing  to  equal  it.  From  the  Dalles  to  Cclilo,  it 
loses  its  beautiful  green,  and,  although  barren, 
it  is  perfectly  grand. 

Away  up  in  British  Columbia,  near  the  head  of 
navigation,  it  iaeonfinedwitliin  high  canons,  and 
presents  a  constant  succession  of  bold  and  strik- 
ing views.  The  upper  Snake,  toward  Lewiston 
in  Idaho,  is  of  the  same  majestic  character. 

The  distance  from  Portland  to  the  Dalles  is  U'l 
miles,  and  from  Dalles  to  Wallulu  121  miles,  and 
from  Wallula  to  Lewiston  101  miles. 

Steamers  leave  Portland  daily  for  the  Dalles  at 
5  A.M.,  and  for  Wallula  Mondays  and  Fridays  iit 
5  A.M.,  connecting  with  30  miles  of  railroad  for 
Walla  Walla.  The  fare  from  Portland  to  tlie 
Dalles  is  $5  ;  to  Wallulu.  |12  ;  and  from  Wallula 
to  Walla  Walla,  |3. 


Puget  Sound, 

The  route  to  "  The  Sound  "  is  by  the  boats  of 
the  Orocon  Steam  Navigation  Company  from 
Portlan(f  to  Kalama,  thence  by  the  Northern  Pa- 
cific Railroad  to  Tacoma,  105  miles,  and  thence 
by  steamer  for  all  points  on  the  sound. 

"The  Sound"  is  a  most  beautiful  sheet  of 
water — a  siiecession  of  bays  with  enchant  inj,' 
shores  on  two  and  sometimes,  apparently,  on  all 
sides,  sloping  up  to  hills  and  well-timbered 
mountains.  Seattle  and  ()lymj)ia  are  the  largest 
towns  of  general  interest.  Port  Townsend  and 
other  places  are  extensive  lumber-mills. 

Victoria,  in  British  America,  is  a  beautiful, 
quiet  place  of  5000  people. 


pmg  wl 
turn  asid 
tli(5  great 
and  the 
autly  bi( 


327 


Passengers  can  leave  Portland  daily  at  0  a.m. 
(except  Sunday)  for  all  points  on  the  Sound,  and 
for  Victoria  on  Wednesday  and  Saturday  at  the 
fiamc  hour.  From  Portland  to  Kularaa  the  faro 
is  |1  ;  to  Tacoma,  $7  ;  and  to  Victoria,  $13. 

During  the  summer  season,  the  tourist  may 
wish  to  see  "Clatsop  Beach,"  the  groat  water- 
ing-place of  Oregon — her  boast,  and  the  envy  of 
California.  It  is  a  long,  wide,  splendid  beach 
from  Fort  Stevens,  at  the  mouth  of  Columbia 
River,  to  Tilamoolt  on  the  south,  a  distance  of  20 
miles.  The  route  is  via  Astoria  by  the  steamers 
of  the  Oregon  Steam  Navigation  Company,  and 
thence  across  a  promontory  to  the  ocean.  Be- 
sides the  splendid  beach,  the  place  has  all  the 
usual  attractions  of  mountain,  sea,  and  sand — 
meadow,  grove,  and  stream. 

Oregon,  like  Northern  California,  is  a  sort  of 


sportsman's  paradise.  Its  streams,  which  arc 
every  v/here,  abouud  in  trout,  jmd  the  large  rivers 
in  salmon.  Deer,  grouse,  quail,  ducks,  and 
geese,  bear,  elk,  mountain-sheep,  and  cougars 
are  in  all  sections  of  the  State,  although  civiliza- 
tion has  drawn  the  elk,  mountain-sheep,  and  bear 
from  the  great  valleys.  Deer  arc  plentiful,  con- 
venient to  points  reacliP'T  by  railroad  and  steam- 
ers, and  grouse  are  found  in  all  the  valleys.  The 
sportsman  and  tourist  can  not  go  amiss  in  any 
section  of  Oregon,  Washington  Territory,  or 
Idaho. 

To  the  emigrant  its  broad,  unoccupied,  fertile 
plains  present  a  great  attraction.  Emigrants  will 
find  information  furnished  by  the  Oregon  State 
Board  of  Immigration,  or  the  Land  Department 
of  the  Oregon  and  California  liuilroad,  504  Bat- 
tery Street,  San  Francisco. 


To  Australia  via  San  Francisco, 


^.0 


The  tour  of  the  world  is  now  the  lot  of  many 
who  of  necessity  must  enter  the  Golden  Gate. 
But  some,  starting  from  England,  must  decide 
whether  they  will  visit  Australia  via  the  Suez 
Canal  or  San  Francisco.  It  is  more  expensive 
to  go  from  London  tna  New  York  and  San  Frau- 

a  Cisco,  but  it  has  been  clearly  demonstrated  that 
this  is  the  quickest  route  and  best  adapted  for 
the  mails. 

It  is  also  the  pleasanteat  route.  By  it  one 
from  England  has  the  advantages  of  seeing  the 
length  and  bieadth  of  the  American  contment 
while  he  is  en  mute,  and  the  privilege  of  stojv 
ping  where  he  pleases ;  and  if  h<»  desires,  he  can 
turn  aside  and  see  at  a  trifling  additional  expense 
the  great  woiiders  of  Colorado  and  California 
and  the  Haw  an  Islands.  His  journey  is  pleas- 
aiitly  broken  up  by  having  cars  lor  a  part  of  it. 


and  he  will  find  the  ocean  ride  from  San  Fran- 
cisco to  either  Melbourne  or  Sydney  long 
enough.  Theic  can  be  no  question  as  to  choice 
of  route  unless  it  should  be  in  the  winter  season, 
and  even  then  this  route  ought  to  l>e  preferable ; 
for  while  it  breaks  up  a  long  sea  voyage,  the 
only  danger  of  interruption  from  snows  has 
proven  to  be  comparatively  little.  Sometimes 
both  Union  and  Central  Pacific  Railrojids  are 
wholly  unobstructed  during  all  the  winter,  and 
the  occasional  blockades  are  never  of  long  dura- 
tion. Passengers  of  this  class  are  allowed  2.")0 
lbs.  of  baggage  each,  and  leave  San  Francisco 
every  four  irieLi,  reckoning  from  June  10th  or 
July  8th,  1878.  The  price  of  cabin  passage  from 
San  Francisco  to  Auckland  and  Sidney  via  Hon- 
olulu is  $200,  and  berths  in  the  upper  saloon  are 
$10  extra. 


m. 


^K'a 


<£he  ^ottthern   Pacific  Jlailroads, 


Next  to  tho  Central  Paciflo,  the  Southorn  Pa- 
cific is  tho  great  rnilroatl  enterprise  of  tho  Paciflo 
coast.  The  whole  length  of  the  roatl,  18S1,  is 
about  1,501)  miles.  It  forms  part  of  a  great  over- 
laml  line  from  the  Pacific  to  tho  Atlantic,  ap- 
proaching San  Francisco  without  crossing  tho 
bay,  It  is  destined  to  bo  one  of  tho  great  liigh- 
ways  of  tho  Continent,  and  is  already  tho  longest 
continuous  stretcJi  of  main  lino  railroad,  under 
tho  samo  control,  in  the  United  States,  and  per- 
haps in  tho  world.  Tho  soutliern  portions  are 
temporarily  worked  under  lease  to  the  Central 
Pacific.  In  connection  with  tho  Central  Pacific 
and  its  other  leased  roads  and  branches,  it  forms 
one  groat  system  extending  4,000  miles,  with 
CS8  miles  additional  of  steamer  routes. 

This  liarmonious  system  is  one  of  the  most 
important  and  successful  railroad  enterprises  of 
tho  continent  or  the  age.  By  it  tho  whole  trnna- 
contineutal  traffic  must  be  performed  for  years 
to  come.  And  tho  difficulties  encountered,  tho 
country  opened,  the  wealth  developed,  and  tho 
wonders  and  curiosities  of  nature  made  access- 
ible— all  are  marvelous. 

From  San  Francisco,  this  giant  entei'prise 
etrefcches  down  into  the  wheat-fields  of  the  San 
Joaquin  and  the  coast  valleys  and  tho  orange 
groves  of  tho  South,  and  takes  fast  hold  on  the 
untold  mmoral  wealth  of  Arizona,  New  Mexico, 
and  other  lands.  It  wag  built  without  the  aid 
of  government  bonds,  when  railway  contractors 
in  tho  East  were  idle  and  railway  shops  were 
silent;  and  built  so  rapidly  that  351  miles  of 
track  over  desert  lands  and  through  long  tunnels 
were  completed  in  the  one  year  187G. 

In  its  vigorous  prosecution,  at  enormous  cost, 
San  Francisco  ond  tho  coast  have  already  reaped 
many  a  substantial  blessing.  The  last  rail  con- 
necting San  FrancLsco  and  Los  Angeles  was  laid 
September  2d,  1876,  and  tlie  rootl  was  opened 
to  Foi-t  Yuma,  via  the  Central  Pacific  to  Lathrop 
and  Goshen,  on  May  5th,  1877. 

When  completed  t  i  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  it 
will  bo  tho  shortest  '  >\e  from  San  Francisco  to 
New  Orleans,  and  th  liighway  for  the  grain  of 
Southern  California  to  tlie  European  markets. 

In  tho  Southern  Pacific  RaQroail  are  consoli- 
dated numerous  local  roads  built  or  projected. 
These  were  tho  San  Francisco  and  San  Jose  Rail- 
road, incorporated  August  18th,  1800,  and  built 
between  these  two  citicis;  tho  Santa  Clara  and 
Pajaro  Valley  Railroad,  incorporattnl  January 
2d,  1808;  and  the  California  Southern,  incorpor- 


ated January  22d,  1870.    All  these  were  consoli- 
dated  October  12th,  1870,  into  the 


Southern  Pacific  Railroad  Co, 

The  Soiithem  Pacific  Branch  Railroad  Company 
was  incorporiited  December  2;5d,  1872,  aiul  con- 
solidated with  the  Southern  Pacific  August  19th, 
1873. 

The  Los  Angeles  and  Sun  Pedro  Railroad  Coin- 

fwny  was  incorporated  Fel)ruary  18lh,  1808,  Iniilt 
)etweon  Los  Angeles  and  Wihniiigton,  and  con- 
solidated with  the  Southern  Pacific  December 
18th,  1874. 

The  Northeint  I>ivision. — This  extends 
southward  from  the  corner  of  Fourth  and  Town- 
send  streets,  San  Francisco,  to  San  Josf',  Car- 
nadero  Jimetion,  and  Tres  Pinos.  From  C'ar- 
nadero  Junction  there  is  a  branch  to  Soledad. 
The  route  has  been  surveyed  from  Tres  Pinos 
across  the  coast  mountains  Tin  the  Panociic 
Pass  to  Huron,  from  wliich  point  40  miles  are 
built  to  Goshen,  where  a  junction  is  formed  with 
the  Visalia  Division  of  the  Central  Pacific  and  tlu' 
Tulare  Division  of  the  Southern  Pacific.  The  tO 
miles  between  Huron  and  Goshen  arc  not  trav- 
eled at  present  in  going  from  San  Francisco  lo 
Los  Angeles,  but  arc  operated  as,  and  called,  tho 
Goshen  Division  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad. 
The  branch  vi/i  Solcdad  continues  from  Carna- 
dero  to  the  Pajaro  (proncmnced  Pit-hil-ro)  Valley, 
thence  through  the  Salinas  Valley,  and  is  sur- 
veyed from  Solcdad  across  the  coast  range  via  the 
Polonio  Pass  to  Posa,  on  the  main  line  of  the 
Southern  Pacific,   53    miles  south  of    Goshen. 


From  San  Francisco  Southward. 

This  Northern  Division  is  the  only  railroad  nm- 
ning  its  cars  into  San  Francisco  without  the  use  of 
a  ferry,  the  line  being  on  the  peninsula  between 
the  southern  part  of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco 
and  the  Pacific  Ocean.  It  is,  therefore,  the  most 
desirable  line  for  coimtry  residences  ;  and  when 
to  this  is  added  the  salubrity  of  climate  found  on 
this  neninsubv  in  an  hour's  travel  from  the  city, it  is 
readily  understood  why  Milbrae,  San  Mateo,  Bel- 
mont, Redwood  t;ity,  Fair  Oaks,  Alenlo  Park, 
etc.,  are  chosen  for  tlu^  palaces  of  bonanza  kings, 
senators,  governors,  railroad  and  bank  prcsi 
dents,  and  other  men  of  culture  and  money  v  i 


TT 


Wlf»P 


329 


cliooso  tlKiir  loiiutiou  wlioro  cost  is  scarcely  ever 
considei'od.  To  theso  delightful  country  rosi- 
dences  there  are  five  trains  each  way  daily,  and 
to  Sau  Jose  four  trains;  axul  the  tourist  desiring 
to  see  the  fairest  and  best  improved  i)ortion  of 
California  must  not  fail  to  take  one  or  more  of 
these  trains  and  extend  his  visit  to  Monterey, 
or,  at  least,  to  San  Jose. 

Leaving  San  Fi'ancisco,  vou  see  the  immense 
freight  doi)ots  of  the  Central  Pacific  and  Southern 
roads,  and  a  lai'go  area  of  land  reclaimed  fi'ora 
Mission  Bay,  at  a  cost  of  nearly  $400, 000,  owned 
jointly  by  the  two  companies  for  railroad  pur- 
poses. A  few  minutes'  ride  brings  you  to  the 
machine-shops  of  the  road,  and  in  the  southern 
part  of  the  city  the  train  stops  at 

Valencia  Street  crossing,  3.4  miles,  where 
connection  is  made  with  the  cars  of  the  Market 
Street  pa.ssenger  cable-railway. 

The  road  may  eventually  skirt  the  bay  from 
the  Fourth  Street  depot,  but  the  t<)urist  will  bo 
pleased  if  he  can  ascund  the  steep  grade  from 
Valencia  Street  depot  and  thereby  gain  a  bird's- 
eye  view  of  a  large  part  of  the  city.  The  care- 
fully-cultivated gardens  to  be  noticed  along  tuo 
road  are  almost  e.\clusively  in  the  hands  of  Italians 
and  Chinamen. 

Bernal,  4.G  miles,  is  a  station  at  which  some 
trains  do  not  stop.  On  the  right,  after  leaving 
the  station,  are  the  grounds  of  the  House  of  Ilt'f- 
ugc,  130  acres,  with  the  imposing  edifices  of  the 
Industrial  School  and  the  House  of  Correction. 

Snn  Miguel,  6. 1)  miles,  is  also  a  small  station, 
near  which,  on  the  left,  is  St.  Mary's  College,  a 
large  educational  institution  of  the  Roman  Catho- 
lic Cliunih.  On  the  right  may  be  seen  Lake  Jlor- 
ced,  used  by  the  Spring  Valley  Water  Company 
to  supply  the  city  in  part ;  and  across  the  hills  is 
the  h)ng  surf-line  of  the  great  Pacific  Ocean,  bat- 
tUng  with  the  shifting  but  unyielding  sand  ;  and 
still  beyond  is  the  bosom  of  the  great  deep.  In 
a  clear  atmosphere,  this  is  a  magnificent  view, 
takin''  in  many  a  sail  and  showing  the  Farralone 
Islands  and  Point  Reyes,  north  of  the  Golden 
Gate. 

Colnta,  9.2  miles,  is  a  side  track,  at  which 
some  trains  do  not  stop. 

Baden,  12.2  miles,  is  of  like  importance. 
The  "Twelve  Mile  Farm"  is  the  residence  of 
Charles  Lux,  Esq.,  of  the  firm  of  Lux  «&  Miller, 
cattkMlealers.  The  firm  own  many  and  vast 
tracts  of  land  in  different  parts  of  the  State. 

San  Bruno,  14.3  miles,  is  on  the  edge  of 
the  marsh  land  which  surrounds  the  bay,  and  the 
point  to  which  a  new  road  to  avoid  the  hills 
must  extend.  This  is  the  resort  for  more  gnnn(>rs 
than  any  other  station  in  California.  During  the 
season  for  ducks,  eighty  and  sometimes  a  liun- 
dred  guns  are  cheeked  to  this  point  from  San 
Francisco  by  a  single  train. 

Targets  for  rifle-shooting  at  ranges  of  200,  500, 


800,  and  1000  yards  are  erected  here,  and  most  of 
the  practice  between  various  military  companies 
and  societies  is  here  enjoyed. 

MUbrae,  17  miles,  has  the  large  dairy  of  the 
same  name,  and  on  the  right  the  beautiful  resi- 
dence of  D.  O.  Mills,  Esq.,  formerly  President  of 
the  Bank  of  California,  an  engraving  of  Which 
may  be  seen  on  page  245. 

Oak  Grove,  19.2  miles,  is  a  small  station, 
the  name  indicating  the  change  of  climate. 

San  Mateo,  21.1  miles,  is  a  flourishing 
town  of  nearly  2000  people,  containing  three 
churches  and  the  elegant  grounds  and  residences 
of  Alvinza  Hay  ward,  the  late  George  H.  Howard, 
and  others. 

St.  Matthew's  Military  School,  for  boys,  under 
Rev,  A.  L.  Brewer,  is  one  of  the  best  in  the  State, 
and  about  two  miles  from  the  town  is  Laurel  In- 
stitute, for  young  ladies,  a  worthy  and  flourishing 
school.  Daily  stages  leave  for  Pescadero  on  the 
arrival  of  the  8.30  train  from  San  Francisco,  fol- 
lowing the  lovely  canon  of  the  San  Mateo  Creek 
through  the  hills  four  miles  to  Crystal  Springs, 
and  thence  crossing  the  Sierra  Morena  spur  of 
the  coast  range  to  Half-Moon  Bay,  or  Spanish- 
town,  13  miles.  The  views  are  grand,  overlook- 
ing on  the  east  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  the 
mountains  and  valleys  of  Alnincda  and  Contra 
Co.ita  counties,  with  Mt.  Diablo  rising  over  all, 
Wiiilc  near  at  hand  are  the  smiling  valleys  of 
S;inta  Clara  and  San  Andreas,  and  the  lovely 
Canndn  del  Ramundo  ■  and  overlooking  on  the 
west  the  thousand  peaks  of  the  Santa  Cruz 
Mountains  and  the  deep  blue  sea. 

l*itrlstiiina  is  23  miles  from  San  Mateo,  and 
Pescadero  30  miles.  This  is  a  favorite  resort  on 
account  of  its  pebble  beach, delightful  drives,  sea- 
bathing, picturesque  hills,  trout  streams,  forests 
abounding  in  game,  and  mild,  bracing  climate. 

At  Pescadero  stages  connect  for  Santa  Cruz,  36 
miles  south,  jiassing  Pigeon  Point,  where  the 
lighthouse  has  a  Fresnel  light  of  the  first  order, 
with  a  national  history.  It  shone  out  from  Cape 
Hatteras  until,  during  the  late  war,  it  was  packed 
ready  for  shipping  to  the  interior  by  the  rebels, 
but  seized  by  the  government  and  sent  to  this 
coast.  This  route  continues  mostly  along  the 
coast,  passing  Scott's  Creek  and  Laurel  Grove, 
choice  resorts  for  fishermen  and  camping  parties. 
The  stages  leave  Pescadero  Tuesdays,  Thursdays, 
and  Saturdays,  and  return  on  alternate  days. 
Fare,  $3. 

Belmont,  25.1  miles,  is  a  favorite  picnic  re- 
sort ;  and  near  the  station,  but  hidden  from  view, 
is  the  residence  of  the  late  William  C.  Ralston, 
now  owned  by  Senator  Sharon. 

Itedtvood  at  if,  28.0  miles,  is  the  county 
seat  of  San  IMateo  County,  and  has  a  population 
of  2000,  with  four  churches.  Boats  from  the  bay 
come  up  a  small  creek,  and  return  with  cargoes 
of  redwood  from  the  coast  mountains  on  the  west. 


,-.■#■ 


330 


An  artesian  well  supplies  the  city  with  wiiter, 
and  two  weekly  papers,  the  Times  and  Gazette, 
supply  the  local  news. 

A  daily  stage  leaves  for  Pcscudcro,  30  miles, 
passing  Searsvillc,  7  miles,  and  Lu  Honda,  10 
miles.     Fare,  $3. 

Fair  Oaks,  80.0  miles,  is  in  the  most 
charming  portion  of  the  Santa  Clara  Valley, 
where  the  damp,  chilly  uir  of  the  ocean  and  bay 
is  just  sufficiently  tempered  by  the  heat  of  the 
interior  to  produce  the  balmy  loveliness  of  Men- 
tonfi. 

The  whole  region  is  divided  into  beautiful  gar- 
dens, luscious  orchards,  and  spacious  parks,  and 
set  with  charming  homes.  Among  tliem  are  the 
country  seats  of  Colonel  Eyre,  Fa.\onD.  Atherton, 
and  others. 

There  are  twelve  species  of  oak  found  in  Cali- 
fornia, but  this  region  is  named  from  the  number 
and  beauty  of  the  white  oak;  and  on  the  trees  the 
long  Spanish  moss  will  remind  one  of  tiie  forests 
'in  the  far  South.  The  mistletoe  is  also  abun- 
dant. 

MerUo  Parkf  32.1  miles,  is  a  continuation 
of  the  attractive  features  of  the  valley.  On  the 
left,  immediately  after  passing  the  station,  is  tlio 
late  residence  of  ex-Gov.  M.  S.  Latham,  adorned 
with  exquisite  works  of  art  and  rare  taste.  In 
the  pr.ik.,  visible  from  the  ears,  may  be  seen  a 
band  of  California  (black -tailed)  deer. 

Further  on,  and  on  the  right,  is  Pah  Alto,  the 
country  seat  of  Governor  Stanford,  named  in 
honor  of  the  original  name  of  the  Spanish  grant. 
This  was  Jiancho  Palo  Alto  San  Franckquita, 
charmingly  situated,  but  neglected  when  it  camo 
into  the  governor's  hands.  It  is  now  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  spots  in  California.  Tlie  rao 
track  and  breeding-farm,  where  Occident  is  at 
home,  is  perfect  in  its  apportionments,  and  has 
also  the  advantage  of  the  salubrity  of  climate 
that  best  produces  a  high  development  of  the 
physical  man  and  the  horse.  We  may  well  look 
to  this  quarter,  therefore,  to  produce  some  of  the 
best  stock  in  the  world. 

Mayftetd,  34.9  miles,  has  about  1000  people 
and  three  churches,  and  is  situated  in  the  midst 
of  fertile  wheat-fields,  and  is  a  favorite  point  of 
departure  for  sportsmen  seeking  de-jr,  quail,  bear, 
and  wild-cats,  in  the  coast  mountains  on  the 
right. 

Mountain  View,  39.1  miles,  is  a  flourish- 
ing town  of  about  500  people.  The  original  town 
is  a  quiet,  unpretentious  hamlet  in  a  charming  lit- 
tle spot  a  mile  west  of  the  station  and  present 
town. 

The  Santa  Cruz  range  is  nearer  than  before, 
and  the  Contra  Costa  grows  more  distant.  Par- 
ties frequently  start  from  this  place  to  hunt  deer 
or  catch  trout  in  the  mountains  ou  the  west. 

Murphy's,  41.9  miles,  is  named  from  the 
grant  on  which  the  side  track   is  laid — a   fair 


specimen  of  the  manner  in  which  the  best  parts 
of  California  were  divided  up  in  "leagues  of 
land  "  and  granted  by  the  Mexican  Government. 

As  the  bay  rt;coded  and  disappeared  on  the  left, 
one  must  not  forget  that  the  ciioice,  arable  land 
is  increased  in  extent,  and  around  Alviso,  now 
opposite,  are  numerous  gardens  from  whicli 
twenty  tons  of  berries  have  been  shipped  in  a  sin- 
gle day. 

Lawrence's,  43.9  miles,  is  a  station  where 
the  name  of  an  old  resident  is  perpetuatcul. 

Santa  Clara,  47.4  miles,  is  a  beautiful 
town  of  nearly  4000  people.  It  is  embowered  in 
the  most  luxuriant  shrubbery  and  surroundwl 
with  prolific  orchards  of  choicest  fruits.  It  is 
one  of  the  oldest  and  most  delightfully  located 
towns  in  the  State. 

The  mission  was  founded  by  Father  Thomas  de 
la  Pinya  in  1777,  and  now  the  imposing  buildings 
of  the  large  (Catholic)  Santa  Clara  College  and 
St.  Mary's  Academy  will  attract  the  first  atten- 
tion of  the  tourist.  These  make  it  a  collegiate 
town.  Two  weekly  papers  are  published  here, 
the  Index  and  News.  A  stage  connects  with  the 
train  at  3.30  p.m.  from  S.vn  Francisco  on  the 
Southern  Pacific  Railroad  for  the  Pacijk  Congress 
Springs,  10  miles  soutli-west,  a  fashionable  and 
])lea8ant  resort,  with  mineral  waters  resembling 
those  of  the  famous  Congress  Spring  at  Saratoga, 
N.  Y.  Another  stage  line  extends  via  Saratoga, 
Congress  Springs,  to  Santa  Cru?,  and  supplies  a 
daily  mail  along  the  route.  Ovnng  to  distance 
it  is  not  a  favorite  for  through  travel,  but  on  no 
otlier  route  crossing  the  mountains  between  San 
Francisco  and  San  Luis  Obispo  is  the  scenery 
equal  to  this,  and  scarcely  any  view  in  California 
surpasses  the  one  from  the  summit,  looking  to 
San  Francisco,  San  Jos6,  and  the  Sierras. 

On  approaching  the  station,  the  train  stops  be- 
fore crossing  the  track  of  the  South  Pacific  Coast 
(narrow  gauge)  liailroad.  This  road  forms  a 
parallel  line  to  San  .Ios6,  and  is  in  operation  from 
San  Francisco  and  Alameda  via  Newark  and  Al- 
viso to  Los  Gatos,  where  stage  connection  is 
made  for  Santa  Cruz. 

Santa  Clara  has  a  bank,  four  churches,  and 
many  beautiful  homes,  but  no  flrst-class  hotel. 
The  Alameda,  a  wide  and  beautifully-shaded 
avenue,  connects  Santa  Clara  with  San  Jos6. 
The  pojjlars  and  willows  that  meet  overhead 
were  set  out  in  1799  by  direction  of  the  early 
Catholic  missionaries.  A  line  of  horse-cars  runs 
on  the  avenue  between  the  two  towns,  and  about 
midway  on  the  road  is  the  Univc^sity  of  the  Paci- 
fic, the  College  of  the  M.  E.  Cnurch,  and  con- 
nected with  this  is  a  seminary  for  young  ladies. 
Beautiful  residences  have  so  increased  that  the 
whole  Alameda  is  now  a  fashionable  avenue, 
lined  with  elegant  liomcs. 

San  Jo84  (San  llo-zay),  50  miles  from  San 
Francisco,  is  the  loveliest  inland  city  of  California. 


1  ,  *' 


FMJf  9m€iWiC  TOMmtST. 


331 


\i 


Its  population  id  about  20,000.  It  contcndrt  with 
SacTuincnto  for  the  lionor  of  bciiifj  the  tliird  city 
in  the  State.  It  was  settled  in  1777  by  the  Cath- 
olic missionaries,  and  was  for  a  brief  period  tho 
capital  of  the  State.  Witliout  the  advantaf,'e9 
of  Sacramento  for  wholesale  trade,  it  commands 
tljc  trade  of  a  large  portion  of  the  State,  and  has 
a  climate  superior  to  that  of  tho  capital  city.  Its 
gardens  of  semi-tropical  fruits  and  shrubs ;  its 
abundance,  variety,  and  gracefulness  of  shade- 
trees  ;  its  well-macadamized  streets  ;  its  numerous 
and  well-supported  churches,  representing  the  I{o- 
man  Catholic  and  every  important  Protestant  de- 
nomination ;  its  pure  water  from  artesian  wells 
and  the  coast  mountains  ;  its  gas-works,  and  nu- 
merous manufactories,  give  it  a  people  of  tho 
highest  intelligence  and  industry,  and  ought  to 
attract  to  it  every  tourist  who  desires  to  see  wliat 
cultivation  will  produce  in  tliis  rich  and  fruitful 
State.  Tho  city  has  four  ineorj)orated  banks, 
none  with  a  capital  of  less  than  half  a  million. 
It  has  a  large  woolen-mill,  canning  factories, 
wholesale  houses,  and  macliinc-shops. 

Its  principal  hotels  are  the  Auzemis,  St.  James, 
New  York  Exchange,  Ilensley  House,  and  Lick 
House  ;  and  outside  of  San  Francisco,  no  one  in 
the  State  is  more  popular  than  the  Au7,erais. 

The  city  has  four  routes  to  San  Francisco  :  (1) 
the  Southern  Pacific,  over  which  goes  four  fifths 
of  tho  travel ;  (2)  a  branch  road  connecting  with 
the  Central  Pacitic  at  Niles  ;  (3)  tlio  South  Paci- 
fic Coast  (narrow  gauge) ;  and  (1)  a  stage  to 
Alviso,  connecting  with  a  steamer  on  the  bay  for 
San  Francisco. 

It  hiis  a  daily  stage  via  Santa  Clara  for  Sarato- 
ga and  Santa  Cruz,  and  a  daily  evening  stage  for 
the  new  Alinailen  QuicLsiiver  Mines,  ten  m'les  dis- 
tant, on  IJaclie  Mountain.  The  tourist  visiting 
these  should  take  a  private  carriage,  or  he  will 
be  comi>elIed  to  siiend  a  night  at  a  hotel  without 
all  the  comforts  he  may  seek.  Tliese  mines  are 
open  to  visitors  on  'J'hursdays  only.  They  were 
discovered  in  1815,  souglit  out  from  seeing  the 
painted  fivces  of  the  Indians,  and  have  been  ex- 
ceedingly productive.  Visitors  may  purchase 
specimens  of  tlie  ore. 

Near  the  Almaden  mines  is  the  Vichy  Spring, 
celebrated  for  its  curative  properties.  Its  waters 
are  bottled  and  sold  in  San  Francisco,  and  said  to 
bo  equal  to  those  imported  from  France. 

The  Guadaloupe  Quicksilver  Mines  are  on  tho 
opposite  side  of  a  spur  of  the  same  mountains. 
The  road  to  it  branches  westward  from  tho  road 
to  the  new  Almaden  mines,  at  a  point  about  7 
miles  from  San  Jos6.  Tlio  two  mines  are  only 
about  two  miles  apart.  But  the  Almaden  are  tho 
most  noted  for  their  productiveness  and  extent, 
and  have  yielded  more  than  any  other  quicksil- 
ver mine  in  this  country.  A  new  drive  has  been 
made  by  tlie  city,  extending  to  the  foot-liills  on 
the  cast  to  Alum  Rock  Springs.    This  road  is  not 


surpassed  in  the  State  outside  of  Sun  Francisco 
and  Oakland.  Tt  is  of  unusual  widtli,  and  for 
the  whole  distance,  0  miles,  it  is  plante(l  on  both 
sides  with  two  rows  of  sintde-trees,  and  will  even- 
tually surpass  the  noted  Alameda. 

These  springs  with  100  acres  of  ground  have 
been  set  apart  for  a  public  park. 

This  same  road  forms  part  of  that  to  Mt.  Ham- 
ilton, constructed  by  Santa  Clara  County,  to  se- 
cure the  location  of  tho  magnificent  observatory 
Erovided  for  in  the  will  of  the  late  James  Lick 
y  a  gift  of  $700,000.  IMt.  Hamilton  is  the 
highest  peak  in  tho  southern  part  of  the  coast 
range,  having  an  altitude  of  4.'500  feet.  The  road 
to  it  ascends  the  hills  east  of  San  JosC,  and  may 
be  seen  from  tho  city  for  a  long  distance  ;  but  it 
descends  again  to  Smith's  Creek,  a  lovely  camp- 
ing spot,  before  the  ascent  of  the  mountain  ac- 
tually begins.  The  grade  is  only  five  feet  in  a 
hundred,  and  it  is  one  of  the  best  mountain 
roads  in  California,  and  will  be  surpassed  only 
by  the  new  road  to  tho  Yosemitc  Valley  from 
Madera  Station. 

The  distance  to  Mt.  Hamilton  is  22  miles.  To 
it  there  is  no  public  conveyance,  but  this  want 
will  doubtless  bo  supplied  as  soon  as  tho  Lick 
Observatory  is  completed. 

San  Jos6  has  three  daily  newspapers,  the  Mer- 
curl/,  Patriot,  and  Argus.  The  Mercury  and  Ar- 
gus have  also  weekly  editions. 

The  Court  House  is  a  beautiful  structure.and  from 
its  dome  can  be  had  a  magnificent  view — a  pano- 
rama of  the  whole  Santa  Clara  Valley,  with  tho 
mountains  on  the  east  and  w  est.  The  State  for- 
mal School  is  located  in  the  center  of  the  city  in 
a  park  of  six  squares,  and  is  also  a  large  and  im- 
posing structure.  Sni„  Jos!i  Institute  and  Business 
College  is  well  supported,  and  the  Convent  or 
Academy  of  Notre  Dame,  under  the  auspices  of 
the  Catholic  Sisters,  is  a  large  and  flourishing  in- 
stitution, and  the  Home  Seminary  (for  orirls)  de- 
servedly esteemed. 

Fourth  Street  station  is  a  mik  *fom  the 
principal  depot,  and  at  it  all  trains  running 
south  of  San  Josi';  stop  for  the  accommodation  of 
the  residents  in  tiie  southern  part  of  tho  city. 

Eden  Vale,  57.3  miles, 

Coyote,  62. 8  miles,  and 

Perry's,  65.8  miles,  are  unimportant  be- 
cause near  San  Jos6,  or  else  the  foot-hills  ap- 
proach on  either  side,  until  the  road  passes  into 
tho  valley  in  which  Gilroy  is  found,  and  tho 
country  is  best  adapted  for  grazing  purposes. 

Buildings  to  accommodate  the  workmen  of  the 
Almaden  mines  arc  plainly  seen  on  tho  right, 
high  up  on  tho  side  of  tJie  mountain. 

Madrone^  68.8  miles,  and 

Tennant's,  73.8  miles,  are  stations  having 
no  especial  attraction  for  the  tourist. 

Gilroy,  80.3  miles,  is  an  important  town  of 
2000  inhabitants.     It   has  six   churches  and   a 


m. 


■ 


332 


TME  ^stCiFiC  TQimiSr. 


weekly  newspaper,  the  Advocate.  It  is  tin;  only 
cating-stiition  on  the  lino  of  the  road,  an''  good 
meals  arc  neatly  served  from  the  abundance  of 
the  farms  and  dairies,  at  50  cents  each. 

The  Southern  Piuijic  and  Williams  are  good  ho- 
tels. The  climate  is  warmer  than  that  of  Ban  JosC. 
Stages' leave  daily  for  San  Felipe,  10  miles  east, 
Los  Bafios,  48  miles  cast,  and  Firebaugh's  Ferry 
cn  the  San  Joaquin  River,  80  miles.  The  fare 
averages  10  cents  a  mile. 

Stages  also  run  every  day  during  the  summer 
to  Oilroy  Hot  Sjiriiifjn,  15  miles  east.  The  waters 
have  proved  beneficial  in  rlieumatic  affections, 
the  hotel  and  cottages  are  attractive,  and  the  wihl 
mountain  scenery,  pine-sccn>:ed  air,  wild  game  and 
trout-fi  liing  have  made  it  a  favorite  resort. 

Old  Gilroy  is  3  miles  south-east,  and  has  grown 
none  since  the  building  of  the  railroad.  Near 
the  town,  and  on  the  left  of  the  railroad,  may  be 
seen  a  swampy  tract,  which  is  the  edge  of  Soup 
Lake,  several  miles  long,  around  which  are  nu- 
merous fields  of  tobacco,  and  in  whicii  are  found 
large  numbers  of  wild  ducks  and  geese.  The 
lake  is  so  called  because  soapwort  is  abundant, 
and  its  saponinc  principle  so  largely  imparted  to 
the  water  that  many  perform  their  washing  with- 
out soap. 

At  Camadero,  82.5  miles,  and  2.2  miles 
south  of  Gilroy,  the  railroad  branches  ;  the  line  to 
Soledad  being  the  most  important,  and  operated 
as  the  main  branch. 

At  Oilroy  jjfissengers  change  cars  for  IlollUter 
and  Tres  Pinos. 

Molllsterf  14  miles  from  Gilroy,  is  the  coun- 
ty seat  of  Benito  County,  and  has  1500  inhabit- 
ants. It  is  situated  in  a  rich  fanning  region,  and 
owes  its  rapid  gi-owth  and  ])rosperity  to  the  divi- 
sion and  sale  of  a  large  land -grant  owned  by  Col- 
onel Hollister. 

The  ranch  was  originally  12  leagues,  or  about 
70,000  acres,  and  purchased  from  the  grantee  for 
$20,000.  The  part  east  of  the  river  is  owned  by 
Flint,  Bixby  &  Co.,  and  -f  (50  per  acre  is  now  a  fair 
average  price  for  the  portion  divided  and  .sold. 

Tre8  Pinos f  20.2  miles  from  Gilroy,  is  the 
present  terminus  of  this  division,  and  tlie  entre- 
pot for  freight  to  the  New  Idria  and  oth<'r  quick- 
silver mines  near  the  New  Idria,  San  Ca  -los,  and 
Cerro  Benito  peaks,  from  70  to  120  miUs  south. 

A  tri-weekly  stage  nms  through  this  cc  untry  to 
San  Bruno,  25  miles,  and  New  Idria,  75  miles. 
Fare,  about  10  cents  a  mile.  Long's,  Peach-Tree,' 
Brown's,  and  Bitter  Water  valleys,  and  Slaciv's 
Cafion,  are  supplied  partly  from  Tres  Pinos  and 
partly  from  Soledad. 

North  and  south  of  Gilroy,  if  you  find  doubt  as 
to  the  ownership  of  the  land  (and  "gnnt  titles  " 
are  i)roverbially  uncertain),  you  may  call  Jt  one  of 
Miller  &  Lux's  farms.  TUey  arc  «o  numerous  that 
cattle  driven  to  San  Fruncl'.;co  aro  pastured  every 
night  on  their  owu  laud. 


One  of  the  firm,  Mr.  Miller,  resides  on  the 
Iiloini{field  J{<inr/i,  a  tract  of  several  thcusuid 
acres.  But  to  gain  a  better  idea  of  the  extent  of 
the  famiing  of  this  firm,  st^e  under  Merced,  on  the 
Visalia  Division  of  the  Central  PauiUc. 


Branch  from  Camadero  to  Sole- 
dad. 

SargenVn,  on  this  branch,  and  80.5  miles 
from  San  Francisco,  5s  named  from  J.  P.  Sargent, 
owner  of  the  ranch  a  mile  north.  It  is  the  sta- 
tion for  stage  to  Sun  Juan  (pronounced  San  Wiln), 
South.  It  is  across  the  i'ii/<iro  (pronounced  Pah- 
ha^ro)  River,  and  six  miles  distant.  Fare,  75 
cents.  San  .luan  South,  is  an  old  Spanish  town, 
the  seat  of  a  mission  located  in  1787,  and  second 
best  in  the  State  in  i)oint  of  preservation.  The 
town  may  be  seen  ou  the  left  a  few  minutes  after 
passing  the  station. 

The  railroad  now  follows  the  course  of  the 
river,  and  turns  westward,  then  crosses  it  from 
Santa  Cniz  to  San  Benito  County,  and  tlien,  to 
shorten  the  distance,  jiasses  through  a  tunnel  5(50 
feet  long  and  into  the  Pajaio  Valley,  9  miles  long 
and  5  miles  wide. 

On  the  right  are  the  Santa  Cruz  (Coast  Range) 
Mountains,  and  in  the  canons  lingering  traces  of 
the  beautiful  Redwoods, 

Vega,  90.5  miles,  is  a  signai  station;  but 

PajarOf  99.4  miles,  is  an  important  station, 
receiving  the  freight  of  the  valley  in  which  it  is 
situated,  and  being  the  junction  of  the  Santa 
Cruz  branch  of  the  Southern  Pacific  liailroa^l' 
formorlj  the  Santa  Cruz  Narrow  Gauge  Rail- 
road. Ill  1881,  this  narrow  gatigo  was  purchased 
and  converted  into  a  road  of  tho  standard  width. 

This  branch  is  21;^  miles  long,  Imt  has 
no  important  station  on  it,  until  Aptos  is 
reached,  on  tho  Bay  of  Monterey,  whore  the 
beach  is  (excellent,  and  a  first-class  watering- 
place  has  bi!en  :aa<lo. 

Soqiu'l,  T}  miles  from  Santa  Cruz,  is  a  little 
villago  at  which  hundreds  •'  camp  out"  during 
the  summer. 

Siintii  Ci'iiz,  tho  terminus  of  this  branch,  is 
also  tho  terminus  of  the  South  Pacific  Coast 
Narrow  Gauge  RaUroa^l,  which  see. 

This  forms  an  all-rail  route  to  the  most  fre- 
quented seaside  resort  on  the  coast,  for  which 
see  the  "  Santa  Cruz  Railroad." 

Watsonville,  across  the  Pajaro  River  from 
the  ."tation,  and  a  mile  distant,  has  a  jiopulation 
of  3500,  a  good  hotel  —the  Lewis  House — four 
churches,  a  bank,  and  two  weekly  papers,  tho 
Pajnroninn  and  the  Transcript. 

The  river  empties  into  the  ocean,  but  furni.sliC3 
no  Iiinding  for  vessels.  Formerly  there  was  a 
landing-place,  "  The  Embarcadero, "  about  a  mile 


WMISI  P;§€iFiC  WOl^iST. 


333 


north  of  t  'm  rivtT,  1>iit  tlic  wlmrf  !h  now  ni^Mcrtt'd 
ftnd  tho  own  rcccivcH  it>:  frcij,'lit  oithcr  l)y  the 
Southern  I'lK^iflc  Kiiihoad  or  vii  Santii  t'ruz. 

WatgOHVllle  Landing,  on  Klkhorn  Sloti^'h, 
is  about  three  miles  Houtli  of  tlio  town,  iin(l  to 
this  point  frcipht  was  formerly  brought  by  a 
Hinall  wtcrn-wliocl  lifflit<!r  from  Moss  Landing,  on 
tho<!oaHtof  Monterey  Hay,  about  two  niiles  Houth 
of  tlio  moutli  of  tlio  Salinas  Hiver,  and  twelve 
miles  from  Watsonville. 

The  eours(!  of  the  railroad  from  Pajaro  in  now 
parallel  with  the  /general  line  of  the  coast,  and 
cross(!S  tlie  tide-lands  that  skirt  the  eastern  shore 
of  Monterey  Bay.  The  Santa  Cruz  Mountains 
are  now  beiiind  to  the  left,  and  on  the  right  are 
i\\i  Gabilan  Mountains,  which  extend  from  the 
Pajaro  Iliver  through  the  entire  county.  The 
rangf!  increases  in  height  as  we  go  south,  ami 
contains  immense  deposits  of  limestone  and  some 
quicksilver.  The  climate  from  Watsonvilh!  to 
Salinas  is  like  that  ot  San  Francisco,  modilied 
beciuse  further  soutli,  and  the  ocean  winds  are 
lev        vere. 

'rovillv,   ]()!»7    miles,   is  4   miles    from 
T  andiiig.   luiil    has   a   jiopulation    of    oOU. 

The  average  ;,  ieldof  wheat  in  this  vicinity  now 
reaches  ;{()  bushels  to  tlie  acre,  and  of  bailey  50 
bushels,  altliough  100  bushels  of  the  latter  have 
been  raised  to  the  acre.  (Jwing  to  the  fogs  and 
damp  winds,  corn  and  potatoes  are  gi-own  in  this 
region.  Considerable  game  is  shipped  during 
the  winter,  the  salt  marsh  aflording  water-fowl, 
and  the  (iabilan  Mountains  ipiail  and  deer. 

Castroville  is  the  point  of  junction  for  tho  Mou- 
terey  liranch.  For  "Monterey."  soo  "Health 
and  Ploa.suro  Resort."  pages  300  and  307. 

SalhuiH,  117.0  milos,  is  tho  county  town  of 
Monterey  County,  and  has  a  population  of  3,000. 
Thorn  arc  eight  chui'i'h  organizations  and  about 
a.s  many  lodges  and  bouovolent  orders.     It  iu  the 


conter  of  trade,  wealth,  and  commerco  for  Mon- 
t(!rey  County,  and  has  banks,  machino-shops, 
foundries,  ilouriug-mills,  and  factories. 

There  is  a  tlno  lutel,  tho  Abbot  Honse;  two 
papers  aro  published  weekly,  tho  /ni/exaru\tho 
Democrat.  Stages  l(>avo  daily  foi-  Natividad,  a 
pleasant  little  town  at  tho  foot  of  tho  GabUan 
Mountains,  six  miles  nortii-east  of  Salinas,  and 
for  New  Uepubiic,  three  miles  east. 

Chualai;  ia8.r»  miles,  is  a  new  town  in  tho 
Salinas  Valley,  where  a  largo  business  is  done  in 
raising  cattle  and  sheep. 

(jonzalettf  134.5  miles,  is  another  now  and 
small  but  promising  town. 

SolvduU,  142.1)  mill's,  is  the  present  termi- 
nus of  this  division,  and  derives  its  chief  import- 
ance from  this  fact.  Until  the  completion  of  the 
road  to  Los  Angeles,  the  mails  to  Southern  Cali- 
fornia went  to  Soledad  l»y  rail,  and  now  overland 
passengers  for  San  Luis  Obispo  and  Paso  Roblcs 
Hot  Springs  here  take  lagcs  of  the  coast  line  for 
these  ))()ints.  These  lages  of  this  line  run  to 
Lowe's,  28  miles  ;  Solon,  40  miles;  Paso  Koblcs 
Hot  Springs,  KO  miles  ;  San  Luis  Obispo,  110 
miles  ;  Arroyo  Grande,  Til  miles  ;  Guadaloupe, 
140  miles  ;  Santa  Harbiira,  220  miles  ;  and  there 
connect  with  stages  for  San  Biiena  Ventura,  30 
miles,  and  Xowhall,  80  miles.  The  fare  is  about 
8  cents  a  mile. 

Another  stage  leaves  daily  for  Pnraho  Sj)rinQs, 
eight  miles  south-west  of  Soledad.  They  are  in 
a  horseshoe-shaped  plateau  about  1.500  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  valley,  allording  a  charming  land- 
scape, and  with  curative  powers  becoming  quite 
celebrated.  The  four  springs  are  of  soda,  sul- 
phur, chalybeate  of  iron,  and  chloride  of  potassi- 
um, and  vary  from  cold  to  118^  Fahrenheit. 
Game  is  abimdant,  the  table  is  vvell  supplied,  tho 
cottages  neat,  and  every  thing  combines  to  make 
this  as  i)oi)ul:ir  as  the  well-known  and  justly-cele- 
brated Pubo  liublea. 


t 


ih^rn  pacific  <p:;^r!and|t,aute. 


This  great  transcontinental  route,  below  tlio 
SLOW  line,  and  the  second  railroad  built  across 
the  Continent,  ia  an  overland  route  formed  by 
operating  a  number  of  .oads,  underlease  to  the 
Pacific  Railroad  Company.  Tn  connection  with 
the  Atchison,  Topcka  and  Santa  Fo  Railroad, 
at  Deming  it  forms  a  through  line  to  Kansas 
City  and  the  East.  An  afternoon  tmin  on  this 
route  lias  a  sleeper  for  Yosomita  Valley  pas- 
ongers. 

Leaving  Sau  Francisco  by  this  route,  one 
iuurts  from  the  foot  of  Market  Street,  where  he 
landed  if  he  came  direct  from  Ogden,  aud  crosses 
Oakland,  whore  he  takes  the  elegant  silver 
palace  car,  and  travels  from  Oakland  over  the 
Northern  Railway  past  Port  Ccsta.on  the  Straits 
of  Carquiuez,  to  the  junction  of  the  San  Pablo 
and  Tulare  Railroad  near  Martinez. 

Martinez,  3o.G  miles  from  Sau  Francisco,  is 
a  pretty  attle  town  of  800  people,  the  comity 
town  of  Contra  Cc.sta  County,  and  tlie  best  point 
to  take  stages  or  i;ariiage.s  to  ascend  Mt.  Diablo. 
The  distjince  from  Martinez  is  21  miles,  and  Mr. 
Wm.  Bennett's  stages  are  of  the  most  approved 
pattorp.  Tlie  ascent  can  be  made  by  leaving  Sau 
¥vi  'isco  in  the  morning  and  remaining  over- 
night oil  th(!  mountain,  and  returning  ti  the  city 
at  noon  the  next  day.  Sunset  or  sunrlfe  or  both 
may  thus  be  liad  from  the  summit,  and  in  but 
little  more  than  twenty-four  hours.  It  is  the  best 
view  near  the  city, coinnianding the  Si.-iiiis  from 
Lassen's  Huttnon  the  north  to  the  II  i^ll  Sierras  on 
the  south,  and  looking  over  the  ('o;ist  Ilangti  on^. 
on  the  broail  Pacific — surveying  at  once  an  area  of 
32,000  square  milns,  gicitly  diversified  with 
ocean,  river,  city,  mountain,  garden,  and  desert. 

Martinez  lias  stages  to  Paclieco,  Concord, 
Walnixt  Creek  and  Danville — small  towns  near 
the  foot  of  Mt.  DinVilo,  and  is  connected  Avith 
Benicia,  by  a  steam  ferryl)oat.  Bunicia  and  the 
United  States  Arsenal  are  to  bo  seen  across  tho 
water. 

Avon,  39.1  miles,  is  a  small  stah'on,  and  so  ia 

Baff  Pttiitt,  42.2  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
tho  nearest  approac'i  to  Mf.  Diabl>.  Suisun 
Bay  is  close  at  liand  opposite  the  mountains. 
This  point  is  a  lavorite  resort  for  shooting  wild 
ducks  and  gtcse.  N(>ar  Bay  Point  our  roinl 
crosses  a  freight  railroad  from  the  con'  mines  of 
Mt.  Diablo  at  Somerville  to  Pitt«biirg  l,ii>!Jing 
at  tidi!-WHter. 


McAvoy  is  a  side  track,  tnd 

Cornwall,  49.9  miles  froifi  San  Francisco,  a 
station  on  tne  "  Ntir  York  ranch."  Tliis  large 
tract  is  one  of  the  Spanish  grants,  covering  so 
much  of  California,  and  called  Los  Medanon. 

At  Cornwall  tl>e  train  will  pass  beneath  the 
track  of  a  freight  railroad,  to  convey  coal  from 
Nortonville  on  Alt.  Diablo  to  tide-water  at  New 
York  Lainling — seen  on  the  left;  and  soon  l)t- 
neath  the  tiack  of  a  second  similar  road  from 
the  same  mountain  to  Antiocli.  Mt.  Diablo  is 
the  only  exfeiisive  coal  deposit  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  San  Fr.'iucisco.  ' 

Antloch,  54  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is  on 
the  San  Joaquin  River.  It  is  a  pleasant  little 
village  of  300  people,  and  has  a  sprightly  weekly 

Eaper,  tho  Ledger.  At  Antioch,  oceau  vessels 
ave  taken  their  cargoes. 

Near  Antioch  is  tho  confluenco  of  tho  Sacra- 
mento and  San  Joaquin  rivers. 

Urentwood,  62.7  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
is  a  small  station  on  tho  Marsh  (or  Los  Meganos) 
ranch. 

Jtffron,  G7.8  miles  from  San  Francieco,  is 
near  a  landing  on  Old  San  Joaquin  River. 

ItctlMuf/,  76.6  mUes  from  San  Francisco,  is 
also  u  small  station  near  Wicklond  on  Old  River. 

Tracif  Janrtion  is  3  mUes  west  of  Bautas, 
and  83  miles  from  San  Francisco.  Tho  route 
from  Antioch  to  the  junction  has  been  southeast. 
On  the  right  ^ro  the  high  hills  of  the  Coast 
Range  and  Mt.  Diablo,  around  three  sides  of 
which  tho  road  goes.  On  tho  left  are  tho  low 
lands  of  tho  San  Joaquin  River. 

At  this  point  tiie  San  Pablo  and  Tulare  Rail- 
road ends  at  jirescut,  and  the  overland  tourist 
takes  the  i>'.:un  lino  of  the  Central  Pacific  Rail- 
road as  far  as  Lathrop. 

For  Bu'itiis,  San  J >aquin  Bridge  wx\  Lathrop, 
see  pages  ?>\1  and  313. 

Lathrop  is  the  eating-station  for  all  passengers 
to  tho  Yosemite  Valley  or  the  East. 

At  Lathrop  tho  trains  v-ill  take  tho  Visaiia 
Division  of  tho  Centnil  Pacific  Railroad,  157 
miles  to  Goshen.  The  coirso  is  now  southward, 
through  tho  San  Joaquin  VaUey. 

Sun  Joaquin  t'a lief/. —Thin  groat  valley 
has  tho  Siorra  Neva*la  on  the  east  andtlio  (\mst 
Ruige  on  tlie  wost,  is  about 2.">0  mil<!S  long,  ami 
from  20  to  150  milos  wide.  The  area  is  2.'),()(»() 
square  miles.     Th  i  gi'eater  portion  of  the  land  ih 


rMiE  ipmm»£Q  iQU'^Bmw, 


335 


a  f»andy  loam,  easily  tilled.  There  are  but  a  few 
trees,  but  the  farmers  have  beyun  to  plant  exten- 
sively. Frequent  patches  of  the  black,  tenacious, 
alluvial  soil,  called  adobe  are  foiuid,  in  which  the 
sun  cracks,  visible  during  summer,  faintly  sug- 
gest earthquakes.  A  hundred  miles  of  wheat 
fields  may  be  seen  in  the  valley,  broken  only  by 
roads  and  f'»nces. 

This  immense  valley,  with  a  surrounding  l)elt 
of  timber  foe  lumber  and  fuel,  coal,  iron,  and  the 
precious  metals  bordering  it,  adai)ted  for  grow- 
ing the  grains  and  fruits  of  two  zones,  is  des- 
tined to  have  a  teeming  population  and  fabulous 
wealfl'.  Irrigation  will  supply  the  lack  of  sum- 
mer rains  when  needed.     I'he  summer  tourist 

The  beautiful  mautlo  of  gTeen  the  u  covers  the 
earth,  in  winter  and  spring,  is  here  turned  to 
hay  in  summer,  'v  ohout  any  artificial  process 
Tho  juices  :!'  t!ie  prass  aro  stored,  the  seeds 
ripened,  and  the  roots  die,  and  seeds  sprout 
again. 

It  is  in  passing  through  such  portions  of  th«) 
country  as  this  that  tho  traveler  comprehends 
more  fully  than  ever  before  tho  vast  resources 
of  our  wonderful  lai  1.  It  is  by  no  means  only 
in  tliQ  extent  of  its  bi  aare  miles  that  this  coun- 
try is  (jreat,  but  ou  acc'imt  of  tho  fortuity  of 
its  vast  reaclii'S  of  land,  unequalled  in  any  other 
portion  <\l  the  globe,  ou  account  of  the  immeuso 
wealth — so  immonso  a.^  to  ).>g  incomprehensible 
— of  its  miuvjs,  developed  and  yet  undeveloped, 
and  ou  account  of  its  varitsty  of  climate,  rang- 
ing from  the  fierce  winter  equal  to  that  of  the 
Northern  circle,  down  through  the  scale  com- 
prehending ueai'ly  all  qualities  of  climate  to  l)e 
found  in  tho  oLl  worlds,  to  tho  hottest  and  most 
tropical  of  su  mmcsrs  anil  w  iutera.  Its  resources 
aro  to  bo  found  in  its  it  rtilo  lauds  yet  lying  un- 
cultivatrod,  but  which,  wlien  occupied  and  tilled, 
aro  capable  of  supplj  ing  tho  whole  of  a  world 
as  Urpu  as  ours  inr  eonturies  to  come  with  food. 
People  of  all  nation-s  \\v\y  lu  ro  find  homes  suit- 
able and  agreeal)le  to  them;  for  wo  have  tho 
climalo  of  'Aw  Ariib  as  well  as  that  of  tho 
Northman.  TJirough  tho  deserts  and  on  the 
plains  of  Kansas  herds  of  wild  caniifls  are  to  bo 
found.  They  wero  imported  for  carrying  pur- 
poKos,  but  proved  iminiietieablo  and  compara- 
tively useless  against  quicker  and  bctt<T  modes 
of  tnmsportati  ju,  so  W(>ro  turned  loose  to  live 
or  die,  as  might  be.  The  y  lived,  and  avo  now 
tluiviuj^  and  multiplying,  so  that  at  no  distant 
date  it  is  supposed  herds  of  camels  wiM  bo  a.s 
common  a  sight  on  tho  plains  of  Kansas  us  tho 
pnvseueo  of  buifaloos.  This  instance  is  but  ono 
small  iudi(^atlon  of  tho  numv  others,  of  tho 
adaptability,  wo  might  say,  of  this  country  to 
tlio  wants  of  tho  living  thinjica  of  almost  every 
other  land  ii\  tho  world.  To  a  person  of  senti- 
mcuit.with  a  full  knowledge  of  tlin  eonrse  of 
ev(mts  Ov'cnning  i-i  tho  lalo  centuries,  it  Si'cms 
OS  if  thia  immeuso  couutr^ ,  with  its  siiarsely 


settled  population  of  inferior  beings,  had  been 
prepared  for  the  reception  and  lay  waiting  for 
the  arrival  of  Europe's  wealth  of  animal  life; 
life,  ho  would  suppose,  that  had  become  so  far 
advanced,  that  had  run  ou  in  the  road  of  im- 
provement so  far  before  the  other  Uvea  in  th  i 
nations  of  the  Old  World,  that  newer  and 
greater  facilities  for  the  exercise  of  their  powers 
were  needed,  for  which  Providence  gave  them 
this  country;  and  to-day,  a  few  hundred  years 
from  the  elate  of  its  discovery,  the  busy  mil- 
lions that  aro  now  opening  up  its  resources  are 
very,  very  few  compared  to  the  hosts  of  as  many 
conturiog  in  tho  future.  The  majority  of  the 
States  individually  have  resources  enough  to 
support  European  nations.  Its  scenery  too, 
surpasses  that  of  the  Old  World,  and  now  the 
tide  of  sight-seers  is  sotting  toward  the  West, 
for  there  it  is  the  traveled  man  will  aver  the 
beauties  of  nature  are  unsurpassed,  in  the 
accumulation  of  grand  and  gigantic  moun- 
tains, seemingly  piled  ono  above  the  other,  until 
the  lofty  heads  of  the  greatest  ones  pierce  a  sky 
OS  blue  ,  id  clear  as  any  Italy  can  boast  of.  In 
the  curious  and  tho  novel,  in  the  weird 
p-ud  the  dreamlike,  in  the  beautiful  and  the 
l()vc?y,  the  scenery  of  this  country  is  su- 
preme. We  may  well  look  upon  and  think 
of  our  country  and  be  proud  that  we  live 
in  it. 

Morrano,  88.3  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
is  u  side  track  and  warehouse  for  shipping  grain. 

MipoUf  93  mi  lea,  is  another  side  track  and 
small  station,  near  which  the  Stanislaus  lliver  is 
crossed. 

Safida,  96  iniles,  is  a  similar  station  ;   and 

Modesto^  102.8  m-les,  is  the  county  scat  of 
Stanislaus  (pronounced  Stan-is-law)  County.  In 
1870,  when  tii-^  town  was  laid  out,  it  was  pro- 
posed to  name  it  after  the  late  Wm.  (?.  Ralston, 
but  his  modesty  f  •  bade  ;  hence  the  name,  the 
Spanish  for  modesi^.  It  has  a  i)opulation  of 
1500,  n*id  is  situ. rod  near  tho  Tuolumne  River. 

ijere»,  107.1^  i  .iles, 

Turlock,  ll.').!)  miles, 

Cresaei/,  12(>  miles,  and 

Atwnter,  132.7  miles,  are  side  tracks  for 
shipi>ing  grain. 

IJetween  Tnrloek  and  Cressey  tho  Merced 
River  is  crossed,  flowing  down  and  out  of  tiio 
Yosemite  Valley. 

Mfvced,  140.3  miles,  was  located  through 
the  cxerticm  of  Mr.  C.  II.  llotfman,  a  prominent 
l.uid-owner,  soon  after  the  railroad  was  built,  and 
li;i^  now  becf>me  tlie  county  se.it  of  Merced  Coun- 
ty, and  the  point  of  departure  for  ilie  Yosemite 
Valley  ri<i  Coulterville  or  Mariposa. 

"1  ho  largo  hotil  on  the  left  of  tho  road— the  El 
Capitan-was  erected  by  the  railroad  company 
to  provid?  for  the  greater  comfort  of  tourists.  It 
is  one  of  \\w  most  ciMuniodious  structures  for  the 
purpose  outside  of  Sau  Francisco.      Tho  Coui-t 


336 


House  is  a  credit  to  the  town  and  county.  It 
cost  $75,000,  and  is  the  best  in  the  San  Joaquin 
Valley. 

Artesian  wells  are  numerous.  In  one  of  Mr. 
Hoffman's  the  water  rises  to  witliin  teif  feet  of 
the  surface  and  is  then  pumped  by  steam,  dis- 
charging at  the  rate  of  30,000  gallons  every 
hour. 

There  are  two  weekly  papers,  the  San  Joaquin 
Valley  Argtis  and  the  Merced  Erpresn.  The 
plain,  especially  toward  the  river,  ten  miles  dis- 
tant, abounds  with  hare,  or  the  "  jackass  rabbit  " 
(Lepua  Californicus),  and  Merced  is  the  starting- 
point  of  numerous  coursing  matches. 

Much  of  the  land  is  owned  in  largo  tracts. 
One  of  the  farms  of  Miller  &  Lux  is  near  this 
place.  It  is  ninety-seven  miles  long,  with  an 
average  width  of  iiftecn  miles. 

In  two  years  they  built  on  it  780  miles  of 
fence,  costing  $800  a  mile.  On  tliis  ranch  are 
kept  150  saddle-horses  :  and  two  oxen,  besides 
calves,  hogs,  and  sheep,  are  killed  every  other 
day  for  the  workmen.  It  is  said  they  can  begin 
to  drive  cattle  at  Los  Angeles  and  stop  on  their 
own  land  every  night  until  they  reach  San  Fran- 
cisco. They  send  to  the  city  1800  oxen  every 
month. 

Leaving  Merced,  we  cross  a  large  number  of 
sloughs  and  creeks,  but  all  decrease  in  size  as  they 
go  toward  the  river,  and  finally  spread  out  over 
the  plain  or  sink. 

flainsburg^  150.1  miles,  is  a  small  station 
on  Deadman's  Creek. 

MtHtum^  156.5  miles,  is  another  small  sta- 
tion, not  far  from  Ash  Slough. 

BerendUf  166  miles,  is  also  a  new  railroad 
town.  Soo:-  iter  leaving  this  place  the  Fresno 
River  is  cros  sed. 

Madera,  173.5  miles,  is  a  new  town, 
started  in  1876,  and  has  i\  population  of  400.  It 
is  the  termin'is  of  a  V-shaped  flume,  53  miles 
long,  by  which  lumber  is  brought  along  the  Fres- 
no River  from  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the 
Fresno  groves  of  Big  Trees.  It  is  owned  by  the 
California  Lumber  and  Flume  Company.  The 
company  have  a  planing-mill  at  Madera.  The 
Fresno  River  supplies  water  r.l.-so  for  extensive  ir- 
rigation, and  the  ditches  may  be  seen  on  the 
right  of  the  railroad. 

From  Madera  nearly  all  tourists  leave  the 
railroad  for  the  Yosemite  Valley.  At  this  point 
a  slooping-car  is  detached  from  the  train  leaving 
San  Francisco  at  4  P.  M. ,  and  remains  upon  a 
side  track  until  morning,  thus  insuring  a  full 
night's  rest. 

lioi'deu,  17G.3  miles,  is  a  town  of  200  peo- 
ple; the  Burrcjunding  country  having  the  bone- 
fit  of  tho  water  brought  from  the  Fr(«no  River. 
Cottonwood  Creek  may  bo  noticed  when  filled 
by  the  winter  rains.  It  is  crossed  after  leaving 
the  station. 


SycatnorCf  185.3  miles,  is  a  side  track,  but 
marks  the  crossing  of  the  Han  Joaquin  River,  at 
the  head  of  navigatio!>  for  steamers  during  the 
high  water  of  the  winter  season. 

FresnOf  195. 1  miles,  is  the  county  scat  of 
Fresno  County,  with  a  population  of  nearly  1000. 
The  Court  House  is  the  largest  building,  and  cost 
$60,000.  The  soil  is  mostly  good,  but  crops  can 
be  secured  only  by  irrigation.  A  stage  runs  to 
Centerville,  in  the  foot-hills,  1 7  miles  east. 

Two  weekly  newspapers  are  published  here, 
the  Fresno  Exjwsitor  and  the  BepuUican. 

The  town  has  a  bank,  and  does  a  large  business 
with  the  surrounding  country.  One  firm  sells 
$120,000  per  year,  and  the  receipts  for  passen- 
gers and  freight  are  $70,000  a  month. 

The  town  is  located  on  a  rich,  alluvial,  sandy 
plain,  between  the  King  and  S'ln  Joaquin  rivers, 
and  the  abundance  of  watrr  for  irrigation  and 
the  canals  built  and  projected  destine  this  to  bo 
one  of  the  most  fruitful  portions  of  the  whole 
State.  There  are  five  hotels,  the  principal  being 
the  Henry  House. 

The  Central  California  Colony  is  located  on 
these  rich  lands,  where  the  growth  of  trees, 
shnibs,  and  alfalfa  is  astonishing.  The  lots  are 
40  acres  each  and  arc  sold  on  small  installments, 
and  are  worthy  the  attontion  of  settlers '  with 
small  means. 

Fowler f  204.7  miles, 

Kingsbury,  215.2  miles,  and 

Cross  Creek,  223.3  miles,  are  small  stations. 

King's  River,  which  is  crossed  between  Kings- 
bury and  Cross  Creek,  rises  in  the  high  Sierras. 
The  course  of  the  railroad  being  parallel  to 
the  axis  of  the  Sierras,  the  traveler  has  a  succes- 
sion of  magnificent  and  ever-changing  views. 

Oosheu,  229.1  miles,  is  where  the  Southern 
Pacific  Railroad  connects  with  the  Visalia  brantli 
of  the  Central.  The  northern  terminus  of  tliirj 
part  of  the  Southern  Pacific  is  not  at  Goshen  but 
at  Huron,  40  miles  west  of  Goshen.  These  40 
miles  arc  the  Ooshen  Division  of  tlie  Southern  Pa- 
cific. 

On  the  Gosh  en  division, 

Uanford  is  12.9  miles  from  Goshen,  in  what 
is  called  the  Mussel  Slough  country,  a  region  on 
the  north  of  Tulare  Lake,  embracing  one  of  the 
richest  jx»rtions  of  the  State.  Five  cro|)s  of  al- 
falfa may  be  cut  during  the  year.  Corn  grows 
to  a  height  of  twelve  to  eighteen  feet,  but  tho 
yield  doea  not  exceed  sixty  or  seventy  bushels  to 
the  acre.     Pumpkins  are  immense. 

Lemoore,  20.9  miles  from  Ooshun,  is  a  new  and 
promising  village. 

Jleinlen  is  22.5  miles  from  Goshen,  and 

Huron,  40  miles.     Allthcso  are  in  the  Musael 
Shu^k  country — a  country  well-known  from  the 
resistance  of  the  settlors  to  tho  ottbrtsof  tl»e  rail 
roa«l  eomi)anv  to  ej(>ct  them,  and  the  blooilalied 
caused  theretty.     Hutou  is  tho  terminus. 


At  Oo$h 
Vitaiia.  I 
built  by  th 
county  tow 

This  Vi» 
the  Centra' 
dent  and  : 
Visalia. 

Visalia  i 
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It  has  a  p 
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south  of  S 
substantial 
v^orks,  ai 
Times,  and 
fice  is  loca 

Boon  afl 
to  Lerdo — 
track  on  tl 

Tulare 
a  populati< 
for  the  Tl 
Railrcad. 

It  is  an  i 
wool.  Th 
luxuriantly 

This  pai 
ten  called 
above  the 
groves  of  1 
▼iting  occi 

Tulare  ] 
in  form,  3 
square  mil 
After  leav 
River,  a  n 

Tiptot 
where  th< 
groves  dis 

AlUa, 

Deian 

Po»a, 
great  plai 

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character, 
VUtaOil 
oil  region 
nia's,  but 
new  and 

S)sed  po 
orthern 
extended 

Near 
King's  R 
the  ^lacit 
running  8 
peaks  air 
ner.  Aft 
the  lirer 
lAke. 


FMM  PACIFIC  F0&misr. 


m 


At  Oothen  there  is  another  branch  railroad  to 
Vualia.  It  is  only  seven  miles  long,  and  was 
built  by  the  people  of  Visalia,  the  principal  and 
county  town  of  Tulare  County. 

This  Visalia  Railroad  is  wholly  independent  of 
the  Central  and  Southern  Pacific  roads,  the  presi- 
dent and  manager  being  B.  £.  Hyde,  Esq.,  of 
Yisalia. 

Visalia  is  an  old  town,  laid  out  shortly  after 
the  occupation  of  the  country  by  the  Americans. 
It  has  a  population  of  about  2000  ;  one  Oi.  the 
best  court-bouses  in  the  San  Joaquin  Valley 
south  of  Stockton  ;  six  hotels,  three  churches,  a 
substantial  bank,  several  mills,  gao  ard  water 
vrorks,  and  three  weekly  papers — the  Delta, 
Times,  and  Iran  Age.  A  United  States  land  of- 
fice is  located  here. 

Soon  after  leaving  Ooshen,  there  is  a  tangent 
to  Lerdo — 50  miles — the  longest  piece  of  straight 
track  on  the  road. 

Tulare,  239.6  miles  from  San  Francisco,  has 
a  population  of  nearly  1000,  and  a  round-house 
for  the  Tulare  Division  of  the  Southern  Pacific 
Railroad. 

It  is  an  important  point  for  shipping  wood  and 
wool.  The  eucalyptus-tree  may  be  seen  growing 
luxuriantly  wherever  planted. 

Tliis  part  of  the  great  San  Joaquin  Valley  is  of- 
ten called  the  Tulare  Valley.  It  is  only  327  feet 
above  the  sea-level,  and  is  well  timbered.  The 
groves  of  beautiful  oaks  arc  like  natural  parks  in- 
viting occupancy. 

Tulare  Lake  lies  south-west,  is  nearly  circular 
in  form,  30  miles  long,  and  covers  an  area  of  700 
square  miles.  It  abounds  in  fish  and  water-fowl. 
After  leaving  Tulare,  the  railroad  crosses  Tulare 
River,  a  narrow  channel,  and  reaches 

Tipton,  250  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
where  the  character  of  the  laud  cLauges,  the 
groves  disappearing. 

AlUa,  262  miles, 

Delano,  270.3  miles,  and 

PoBOf  282. 1  miles,  are  small  stations  on  the 
great  plain ;  and 

Lerdo,  290. 1  miles,  is  a  station  of  the  same 
character,  but  the  shipping-point  for  the  Buena 
Vitta  Oil  Works,  about  40  miles  south-west.  Tlie 
oil  region  does  not  bid  fair  to  rival  Pennsylva- 
nia's, but  Califomians  arc  always  looking  for 
new  and  rich  developments.     Lerdo  is  the  pro- 

S>sed  point  of  junction  with  the  branch  of  the 
orthem  Division,  now  built  to  Soledad,  to  be 
extended  through  the  Polonio  Pass. 

Near  the  next  station  the  railroad  crosses 
King's  River,  flowing  from  the  high  Sierras  and 
the  glaciers  of  Mounts  Tyndall  and  Whitney,  and 
running  south  in  these  high  Sierras  from  these 
peaks  directly  east  of  Visalia  until  east  of  Sum- 
ner. After  flowing  a  long  distance  to  the  west, 
the  riyer  turns  to  the  north  and  flows  into  Tulare 
iMka. 


Where  the  Kern  River  leaves  the  mountains 
and  turns  toward  the  plain  is  Walker's  Pass 
(through  the  Sierras),  thence  a  road  north  to 
Owen's  Lake,  into  which  a  river  of  the  same 
name  flows.  The  lake  is  about  20  miles  long  and 
10  wide. 

Sumner,  302.5  miles,  is  a  busy  point,  with 
a  population  of  about  300.  It  is  the  depot  for 
Bakernjield,  the  principal  town  in  what  is  called 
the  Kern  Valley,  and  county  town  of  Kem  County. 
Kern  Valley,  like  Tulare,  is  a  part  of  the  ^v>  ,To- 
aquin.  The  land  is  a  rich  sedimentary  deposit. 
In  this  valley  are  the  most  extensive  irrigat- 
ing canals  a.id  ditches  to  be  foun<i  in  the  State. 
Some  are  40  miles  long  and  275  teet  wide  and  8 
feet  deep.  A  system  has  also  been  adopted  to 
reclaim  ewamp  lands  in  the  valley,  by  which 
65,000  acres  will  be  brought  into  market.  On  all 
these  lands  water  is  abundant,  and  two  crops  can 
be  raised  each  year.  Sweet  potatoes  are  found 
weighing  24  pounds  each,  alfalfa  producing 
seven  crops  of  from  one  to  two  tons  each  to  the 
acre,  and  corn  producing  from  60  to  120  bushels 
per  acre  ;  and  the  growth  of  cotton  has  been  suc- 
cessfully tried,  producing  400  pounds  to  the  acre. 
On  one  of  the  ranches  of  Messrs.  Haggin 
&  Carr,  of  San  Francisco,  two  artesian  weUs, 
260  and  300  feet  deep,  st  iid  water  12  feet  above 
the  surface  of  the  ground,  and  discharge  each 
through  u  seven-inch  pipe  from  3,000  to  4,000 
gallons  per  hor  They  have  on  this  ranch  a 
daitT  of  300  f  >  large  apiary,  4,000  stock 

cattle,  besides  lioi     b,  nmles,  sh(>ep,  hogs,  and 

3,500  acres  in  alfalfa.      I"  i>v  '     \pendedim' 

mense  sums  of  money  iu  i riutiag  irrigat- 

.  ing  ditches.  A  plow  once  used  li  re,  the  "  Great 
Western,"  is  the  largest  in  the  ^vorld,  and  rt^- 
quires  eighty  oxen  with  a  ton  of  chains  and  a 
ton  of  ox  j^okes  to  use  it,  and  cuts  a  furrow 
five  feet  wide,  and,  if  necessary,  thr<  «  feel 
deep,  at  the  rate  of  eight  miles  a  day.    A  m^thei 

Elow,    "Sampson,"  a  little  smaller,    n quires 
•om  thirty  to  forty  mules  for  use  in  ditching. 

Messrs.  Carr  &  Haggin  have  a  number  o( 
ranches  in  this  valley,  aggregating  600,000  acres 
and  on  them  at  times  100,000  sheep.  '"'  j 
raised  350  bushels  of  sweet  potatoes  t  .ii« 
acre.  One  half  acre  of  sweet  potatoes  vieldecl 
$150.     They  sell  or  lease  lands  in  small  lots. 

One  man  moved  on  40  acres  of  land  Apri] 
26th,  1877,  and  on  November  1st,  1877,  liacl 
grown  and  sold  82,000  worth  of  com,  beans  and 
pumpkins.  But  it  is  said  to  be  hot  and  malarious. 

The  town  of  Bakersfield  has  a  population  of 
about  1000,  good  public  buildings,  a  bank,  two 
weekly  papers,  the  Courier- Cal^ornian  and  tha 
Oazette. 

At  Sumner  the  grade  begins  for  ascending  the 
Sierras,  but  iust  before  reaching  Pampa  there  is  a 
descent  ti  about  80  feet  to  cross  Basin  Creek  (u 
named  from  Walker's  Basin  on  the  east),  aftef 


SS8 


S'BB  ^^€tFi€  T@¥§tXST. 


•which  the  ascent  is  resumed  and  the  road  soon 
follows  Caliente  Creek,  crossing  and  recrodsiug 
it  a  number  of  times. 

Panipa,  317.5  miles,  ia  a  small  station. 

Caliente,  324.8  miles,  has  an  elevation  of  1290 
feet.  It  is  at  the  junction  of  the  Caliente  and 
Tehachapi  creeks.  The  axis  of  the  Sierras  runs 
south-west  about  20  miles  from  Caliente  to  Te- 
jon  (Tay-hone)  Pass.  Caliente  was  long  the 
.southern  terminus  of  the  Tulare  Division,  and 
stages  ran  from  this  point  to  the  railroad  20 
miles  north  of  Los  Angeles,  It  is  now  tlie  ship- 
ping-point for  considerable  freight. 

Stages  leave  daily  for  Ilavilah,  25  miles,  and 
Eernvillc,  45  miles,  both  in  Kern  County  and 
north-east  of  this  station.  The  po^julation  is 
only  100. 

Tehachapi  Pass, 

The  Tehachapi  Creek  flows  down  the  mountain 
from  the  south-cast,  and  at  Caliente  one  can  look 
directly  up  the  Tehachapi  Canon  for  some  dis- 
tance. 

As  one  approached  the  station,  he  saw  the  rail- 
road on  the  right  only  a  short  distance  away  ;  and 
on  leaving  the  station,  i\w  train  bends  around  the 
few  houses  and  goes  down  the  ere 2k,  but  it  con- 
tinues and  increases  its  steep  and  wonderful  climb. 
For  twenty  miles  the  grade,  including  curvature, 
is  118  feet  to  the  mile.  So  accurately  and  con- 
stantly are  the  grades  and  curvatures  adjusted 
to  one  another,  with  reference  to  obtaining  a  uni- 
form traction,  that  the  whole  is  a  piece  oif  work 
not  only  unique  in  plan  but  unsurpassed  in  exe- 
cution. A  writer  of  world-wide  travel  calls  it  a 
remarkable  triumph  of  engineering  science,  and 
says,  "  I  know  of  nothing  like  it,  unless  it  be  the 
road  over  the  Styrian  Alps  from  Vienna  to  Trieste  ; 
and  even  there,  if  I  remember  rightly,  the  track 
does  not  literally  cross  itself."  Prof.  George 
Davidson,  of  the  United  States  Coast  Survey, 
says  it  is  not  equaled  by  any  railroad  engineer- 
ing he  has  seen  in  America  or  Europe.  It  is  a 
marvel  of  genius  and  perfection  that  will  givi: 
lasting  honor  to  Colonel  George  E.  Gray,  the  Chief 
Engineer  of  the  road,  and  to  his  efficient  assist- 
ant, William  Hood,  Esq.,  by  whom  all  plans, 
suggestions,  and  directions  were  faithfully  car- 
ried out. 

Caj)e  Horn,  on  the  Central  Pacific,  presented 
no  diflBculty  to  be  compared  with  the  Tehachaj^i. 
To  overcome  the  former  was  an  act  of  courage, 
but  requiring  far  less  irgenuity  and  skill  than  to 
build  successfully  and  economically  in  this  defile. 

But  the  tourist  will  prefer  to  see  for  himself, 
and  his  attention  will  be  divided  between  the 
work  and  the  scenery  of  the  canon.  The  latter 
is  not  majestic,  like  tiiut  on  the  American  liivcr, 
bat  quite  picturesque  and  often  grand. 


Leaving  Caliente,  the  Tehachapi  Creek  is  lost 
sight  of,  and  the  road  winds  around  among  the 
hills. 

Bealeville,  330.1  miles, is  a  small  station, honor- 
ing General  Heale.  When  approaching  and  at  it, 
a  pretty  view  may  be  had  of  i\v  rugged  hills  on 
the  left  beyond  Caliente.  Under  the  morning 
sun  on  the  numerous  ridges  and  valleys,  coming 
down  from  the  long  -uountain  chain,  there  are 
ever-varying  lines  of  light  and  shade. 

After  leaving  Bealeville  the  road  passes  around 
Clear  Creek  Canon,  one  of  the  most  formidable 
pieces  of  work  on  the  mountain,  having  in  it  tun- 
nels 3,  4,  5,  and  ti  ;  and  as  you  enter  the  cation, 
you  see  on  tlie  left  the  road  ascending  the  oppo- 
site wnll  of  the  canon  more  than  a  hundred  feet 
above,  and  it  is  only  three  or  four  hundrcl 
yards  across  the  canon  ! 

The  tunnels  are  numerous,  there  being  seventeen 
between  Caliente  and  the  summit.  The  short- 
est is  No.  11,  158.8  feet,  and  the  longest,  No. 
5,  1156.3  feet.  The  aggregate  length  o'.  the  sev- 
enteen is  7683.9  feet. 

On  emerging  from  tunnel  No.  6,  six  miles  from 
Caliente,  the  Tehachapi  creek  and  canon  are 
seen  below,  and  t'aliente  itself  only  a  mile  away, 
but  about  six  liundred  feet  below  the  train  ! 

The  old  road  to  Ilavilah  and  Kernville  appears 
like  a  trail  on  the  hills  beyond  Caliente,  and  the 
new  road  may  be  seen  following  up  the  caiion  of 
Caliente  Creek. 

Oaks  are  now  becoming  more  numerous  and 
beautifying  the  hillsides.  The  old  stage-road  to 
Los  Angeles  is  seen  far  away  and  above  on  the 
right.  And  now  there  begins  to  appear  the  "Span- 
ish-bayonet "  {Yitcra  GlorioHd),  one  of  the  love- 
liest flowers  that  adorns  the  land.  When  it  blos- 
soms in  early  spring,  it  will  attract  and  enthuto 
everyone.  On  the  toj)  of  its  tall,  straight,  sin- 
gle stem  is  a  gr(  at  paiii'  le  of  snow-white  blos- 
soms, and  the  whole  air  i-  richly  laden  with  their 
most  delicious  fragrant^'.  It  partakes  somewhat 
of  the  character  of  the  night-blooming  cereus, 
for  the  fullest  bloom  and  sweetest  fragrance  are 
in  the  night.  Twelve  hundred  blossoms  may  be 
counted  on  a  single  stalk,  and  in  the  vicinity  !)l 
Los  Angeles,  where  the  stalk  grows  fifteen  feet 
high,  six  thouHand  hloamnis  have  been  found. 

The  scenery  now  grows  wilder  ;  the  iocks  in 
tlie  caflon  are  sharper  and  more  forbidding,  and 
piled  higher  and  higher.  In  the  n  row  eafion 
there  are  rocks  frowning  from  above,  and  rising 
up  from  the  crooked  dellle  of  the  creek  700  feet 
below. 

On  passing  through  Tunnel  8,  one  may  notico 
how  rapidly  the  bed  of  the  creek  is  rising.  The 
heavy  cuts  also  indicate  the  difficitt  character  of 
the  work.  The  rock  is  granitoii] ,  yet,  solid  and 
safe  as  the  tunnels  through  it  seem,  the  fearful  may 
take  courage,  for  assurance  is  cuubiy  sure,  all 
the  tunnels  being  lined  with  the  ceu;irs  of  Oregon. 


titude 
oua. 


>oq 


An  occasional  pino  is  now  seen,  ind  as  the  al- 
titude increases  they  will  become  more  numer- 
ous. 

As  one  looks  back  down  the  canon,  lie  may  see 
the  top  of  Breckcnbridgo  Mountain.  It  was  hid 
at  Caliente,  but  lias  now  crawled  up  into  view. 
The  old  stage-road  is  crossed  and  recrosscd,  and 
at  length  the  railroad  crosses  the  Tcfhachapi 
Creek  itself.  Off  to  the  right  we  have  a  jiretty 
view  of  Bear  Mountain,  a  peak  of  the  Sierras. 
It  is  snow-crowned  late  in  the  spring. 

The  track  then  curves,  making  the  ' '  Twitty 
Creek  Bend."  from  which,  in  clear  atmosphere, 
one  may  look  out  over  the  wide  expanse  of  the 
P:;n  .Toacpiin  Valley,  off  hundreds  of  miles  to- 
wards San  Francisco. 

We  recross  the  Tehachapi  Creek,  just  as  we 
approach 

KeenCf  338  miles.  It  is  a  small  station. 
Around  it  there  are  many  points  of  interest  in 
the  mountain  scenery,  but  the  view  is  not  exten- 
sive or  sublime.  On  the  right  of  Keene  is  that 
familiar  frieiid.  Bear  Movntain,iieavily  timbered. 
It  appeared  often  along  t.ie  road,  and  at  Caliente 
seemed  as  near  as  it  now  does. 

Then  trussing  and  almost  immediately  rccross- 
ing  the  creek,  the  road  makes  a  long  curve  to 
the  right,  turns  again  sharply  to  the  left  to  pass 
through  tunnel  0  and  pass  around  the  lA)ap. 

The  road-bed  is  no  longer  far  above  the  creek, 
and  how  to  ascend  without  expending  millions 
for  lonj.;  tunnels  was  the  problem  the  Loop  solved. 
Here  the  cafion  of  the  Tehachapi  has  widened, 
and  in  it  there  is.  a  conical-shaped  hill.  Beneath 
this  the  train  goes  through  tunnci  9,  and  emerg- 
ing it  curves  to  the  left  and  climbs  this  same  hill 
and  crosses  the  track,  with  a  difference  in  eleva- 
tion of  77.46  feet.  Tunnel  9  is  426.2  feet  long  ; 
the  loop-line  is  3794.7  feet  ;  ♦he  curvature,  300" 
52'  ;  the  limit  of  curvature,  10^ ;  and  the  radius, 
573.7  feet.  Then,  by  a  fill  of  150,000  cubic  yards, 
the  road  passes  ficm  the  peak  around  which  it 
curved  over  to  the  wall  of  the  canon,  and  is 
again  far  above  the  bed  of  the  creek.  Or  sup- 
pose one  starts  with  the  civil  engineer  to  go  down 
the  mountain.  He  can  not  descend  as  rapidly  as 
the  creek  tumbles  over  the  rocks,  and  he  reaches 
the  narrow  part  of  the  canon,  but  can  not  get 
down  where  liis  road  can  follow  it.  So  he  drops 
it  down  by  means  of  tlie  loop,  and  for  saving 
money  "  there's  millions  in  it." 

In  curving  around  the  hill,  after  passing 
through  tunnel  9,  and  on  the  north-east  side  of 
the  hill,  there  is  a  heavy  cut  that  required  much 
blasting,  and  here  were  usckI  the  largest  blasts 
exploded  on  the  line  of  the  road,  and  larger  than 
any  used  on  the  Central  Pacific. 

The  best  view  of  the  Loop  is  had  just  before 
entering  tunnel  10,  by  looking  back  down  the 
cafion.  Five  lines  of  railroad  are  crossing  and 
recroBsing  the  cafion.     Between  tunnels  10  and 


11,  and  just  before  entering  tunnel  11,  one  may 
see  on  the  right  the  top  of  a  lofty  peak,  covered 
with  brush,  but  without  trees.  Call  it  after  your- 
self, or  the  "  enterprising  newsboy,"  or  what  you 
choose,  for  it  has  no  name.   (Seepage  357.) 

After  passing  tunnel  11  the  train  has  reached 

Oirard,  343.8  miles.  It  is  a  small  station. 
The  old  stage-road  comes  near,  but  it  is  down 
in  the  bottom  of  the  canon.  It  looks  as  if  the 
summit  was  close  at  hand,  but  it  is  nearly  nine 
miles  away.  The  open  coimtry  is  an  indication 
of  its  approach,  but  numerous  spurs  of  trouble- 
some rock  must  yet  be  pierced  with  tunnels  ;  and 
these  too  have  all  been  timbered  with  the  cedars 
of  Oregon. 

Tunnels  12  and  13  arc  almost  continuous,  and 
14  only  far  enough  distant  to  open  your  guide- 
book, and  so  you  continue  to  alternate  in  light 
and  darkness,  on  the  solid  rock  and  deep  ravines. 
The  creek  below  is  gradually  approaching.  It  is 
crossed  and  recrosscd,  once  on  a  high  trestle.  In 
the  tunnels  and  rocks  and  ravines  we  still  have  a 
country  as  rugged  as  any  railroad  builders  need 
care  to  face. 

At  length  the  tunnels  are  all  passed  and  the 
caHon  begins  to  widen,  showing  the  near  ap- 
proach of  tlie  summit.  The  road  is  no  longer  in 
Tehachapi  Canon,  but  in  Tehachapi  Valley. 

The  stage  and  rail  road  are  side  by  side.  When 
the  hot  sun  of  summer  has  burned  up  every  thing 
else,  here  may  be  seen  prettily-colored  patches  of 
vegetation.  It  is  the  tar-weed,  and  will  stick  to 
one's  boots  as  it  does  to  the  noses  of  the  cattle. 

At  last  the  station  called 

Tehachapi  Sunim.it,  350.3  miles,  is  reach- 
ed, but  the  highest  point,  or  the  summit,  is  about 
tw,i  miles  beyond,  or  south.  This  staticn  is  the 
nearest  one  to  the  summit.  About  two  niles  to 
the  right  is  the  old  town  of  Tehachapi,  with  about 
twenty  house.^.  It  is  on  the  old  stage-road,  but 
the  new  town  v    I  eventually  outrival  it. 

On  the  broaa  top  of  the  range  and  down  the 
sides  sheep  find  nutritious  pasture.  About  five 
miles  away  is  a  marble  quarry,  and  on  this  ridge 
there  is  also  a  little  placer-mining. 

The  summit  appears  like  a  broad  plain.  The 
highest  elevation  is  4026  feet.  On  t'o  broad  pla- 
teau and  on  the  right  of  the  road  there  is  a  small 
lake,  and  it  would  not  be  worth  mentioning  if  it 
was  not  salt.  Digging  down  a  few  inches  around 
its  shores  reaches  rock  salt. 

The  water  has  never  been  known  to  flow  out  of 
this  lake  and  off  t  he  summit.  White  Uock  Creek, 
erroneously  laid  down  on  some  maps  as  flowing 
oi  on  the  plains  near  Mojavc,  empties  when 
flowing  at  all  into  this  lake. 

From  the  littie  "divide,"  crossed  just  south 
of  the  lake,  tin:  road  descends  toward  Cameron's 
Canon,  and  ioUows  this  oui,  ul 


«i'. 


y 


Cameron f  359.4   miles,  is 


he  mountain, 
a  small    station. 


About  half  a  mile  from  this  the  road  enterp  the 


840 


TME  puctwrc  FOmttSF. 


cafion,  with  walla  from  500  to  700  feet  high  on  the 
Boath  and  very  much  higher  on  the  north. 

This  cafton  is  of  peculiar  interest,  being  an 
earthquake  crack  more  than  five  miles  long. 
Stopping  to  examine  minutely  the  general  slope 
of  the  mountains,  the  strata,  or  the  walls  would 
be  inconvenient,  but  repay  one  who  can  do  so. 
After  crossing  the  Mojave  Plains  near  Alpine  an- 
other earthquake  crack,  and  of  recent  origin,  is 
unmistakably  recorded.  The  Spanish-bayonet  is 
abundant  in  the  cafion. 

Ifadeau,  364.6  miles,  is  a  small  station  in  the 
cafion.  A  stream  of  water  runs  down  the  cafion, 
and  it  appears  as  if  the  winter  rains  would  carry 
off  the  road-bed,  but  it  is  10  or  12  feet  above  high 
water. 

On  leaving  the  cafion,  the  water  channel  con- 
tinues to  the  left  of  the  road  a  mile  or  two  and 
there  sinks,  leaving  when  dry  white  patches  of 
alkali  and  salt.  Leaving  the  cafion,  the  road 
curves  to  the  right  and  approaches  the  first  sta- 
tion on  the  plains. 

Here  a  new  object  of  interest  appears  in  the 
Yucca  Draconis.  It  is  peculiar  to  these  plains, 
and  tor  miles  along  the  road  will  attract  atten- 
tion. It  is  palm-like,  and  often  called  a  "  palm*' 
and  "cactus,"  but  it  i»  ruither.  It  is  a  yucca, 
and  a  remarkable  tree.  It  is  exogenous,  and 
grows  from  ten  to  twenty  feet  high,  has  a  trunk 
18  or  20  inches  in  diameter,  and  terminates  in 
stumpy  branches,  each  having  at  the  extreme  end 
a  tuft  of  dagger-shaped  leaves.  Out  of  each 
bunch  of  foliage  grows  a  panicle  of  blossoms  with 
greenish  petals  bearing  large  seed-vessels,  but  not 
remarkable  for  either  beauty  or  fragrance.  How 
often  each  tree  blossoms  is  not  known,  but  not 
every  year,  and  some  say  once  in  four  years. 
The  trunk  has  numerous  layers  of  fibers,  which 
run  spirally,  and  each  layer  is  at  an  angle  to  the 
next. 

The  bark  is  removed,  and  the  trunk  vmcL  for 
making  paper.  It  is  crushed  into  a  pulp  at  Ra- 
venna, a  station  in  the  Soledad  Cafion,  and  thp 
pulp  taken  tc  a  mill  near  San  Josd  and  manufac- 
tured. Experts  have  pronounced  it  adapted  for 
making  a  superior  class  of  bank-note  paper  of 
great  durabihty. 

Mqfave,  370.2  miles,  and  the  terminus  of  the 
Tulare  and  also  the  Mojavo  Division.  It  is  the 
only  eating-station  between  the  Bun  Joaquin  Val- 
ley and  Los  Angeles,  and  butter,  milk,  and  all 
provisions  must  be  transported  over  the  moun- 
tains, and  the  water  is  carried  in  pipes  from  a 
spring  near  Cameron  station,  ten  miies  away. 

Besides  the  hot«>l,  there  arc  several  stores, 
some  shops  and  residences.  The  railroad  om- 
pany  has  a  roimd-house  for  fifteen  engines,  a  ma- 
chine-shop, tnd  a  large  freight  warehouse. 
Freight  wagous  are  always  on  liand  to  unload 
bulhon  and  cany  supplies  to  Darwin,  100  miles, 
liOne  Pine,  Cerro  Gordo,  and  Independence,  168 


miles,  directly  north  in  Inyo  County.  The  Cerro 
Gordo  Freighting  Company  alone  employ  700 
head  of  horses. 

Stages  leave  Mojave  every  other  day  for  Dar- 
w^in,  106  miles,  Cerro  Gordo,  135  nules.  Lone 
Pine,  !  '~  miles,  and  Independence,  164  miles. 
Stage  fai< ,  n.bout  20  cents  a  mile.  These  plains 
extend  eastward  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach, 
and  on  the  west  there  is  a  semicircle  of  moun- 
tains. The  heated  sand  causes  the  wind  to  rush 
furiously,  and  early  in  the  history  of  the  road 
"  Mojave  zephyr"  was  a  well -fixed  term.  From 
Mojave  it  is  only  about  75  miles  to  Colton  via  the 
Cajon  Pass.  Mojave  is  the  point  of  divergence 
of  the  proposed  Thirty-fifth  Parallel  road,  sur- 
veyed to  the  Colorado  River  at  "  The  Needles," 
234  miles  east. 

This  survey  crossed  the  sink  of  the  Mojave 
River  at  an  altitude  of  060  feet,  and  crossed  the 
Providence  Mountains  via  Granite  Pass  at  an  ele- 
vation of  3935  feet. 

The  Atlantic  and  Pacific  Railroad  Company  had 
also  a  charter  from  San  Francisco  to  the  Colo- 
rado, following  the  coast  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Santa  Clara  River,  thence  east  to  Soledad  Pass, 
and  across  the  desert  to  the  Colorado. 

The  course  to  be  now  followed  from  Mojave  ia 
nearly  south.  The  Yucca  Draconis  is  more 
abundant.  Numerous  buttes,  hundreds  of  feet 
high,  are  seen.  They  are  of  soft  granite  and 
sandstone  rock,  showing  that  the  country  is  not 
volcanic.  The  highest  are  on  the  right.  It  is 
quite  probable  that  these  are  the  peaks  of  a  sub 
merged  mountain  chain. 

GtotUeVf  376.8  miles,  is  named  a  station,  but 
there  is  neither  house  nor  side-track  ;  and 

Sand  Creekf  384  miles,  is  also  dreary.  But 
water  is  only  a  few  feet  below  the  surface,  and 
this  peculiarity  extends  over  nearly  all  the  plains, 
and  promises  well  for  future  development.  Now 
the  plains  furnish  a  valuable  stOL?{-range,  as  they 
abound  with  bunch  and  other  nutritious  grasses. 
In  the  spring  of  the  year  these  plains  are  a  vast 
and  most  oeautiful  flower-bed,  perhaps  un- 
cqualcd  by  any  other  gathering  of  colors  to  be 
found  in  California. 

Between  Sand  Creek  and  Lancaster  the  road 
begins  to  ascend,  the  lowest  elevation  being  2300 
feet,  about  six  miles  south  of  Sand  Creek  station. 

Off  to  the  left  there  seems  to  be  an  ocean  ;  it 
is  sand  and  alkali,  and  the  well-known  "mirage 
of  the  desert." 

Lancaster,  SOS  miles,  is  only  a  side  track. 

About  half  a  mile  north  of  the  next  station, 
the  road  passes  through  a  cut  of  chalky-looking 
rock,  and  after  the  cut  comes  a  fill  of  the  some 
material. 

This  is  the  wave  of  an  earthquake  made  in 
1868,  and  the  wave  may  be  traced  lor  miles.  In 
places  juniper-trees  may  be  found  half  buried  yet 
erect. 


TME  9S€iric  roimiSF. 


Ul 


S4 

n 


n: 


but 


The  Yucca  Gloriosa,  which  disappeared  in  Ca- 
meron's Cafion,  now  reappears  ana  is  seen  nearly 
all  the  way  to  Los  Angeles. 

Alpine f  405.0  miles,  a  side  track,  brings  us 
face  to  face  with  the  8an  Gabriel  Mountains. 
This  range  directly  ahead  is  between  nine  and 
ten  thousand  feet  high,  and  the  other  side  of 
these  mountains  will  be  seen  from  Los  AngelcH. 
This  range  is  the  Sierra  Madrc,  or  San  Gabriel, 
Mountains,  and  on  the  west  the  range  connects 
with  the  San  Fernando  Mountains  at  the  San 
Fernando  Pass.  Ascending  from  Alpine  to  the 
summit,  and  looking  back  and  to  the  left,  there  is 
a  beautiful  view  of  the  Mojave  Plains  and  the 
mountains  we  crossed. 

The  maximum  grade  is  116  feet.  The  sum- 
mit of  Soledad  Pass  has  an  elevation  of  3311 
feet. 

Aettnif  415.6  miles,  is  a  side  track.  The  road 
follows  the  Santa  Clara,  au  open  valley  from  the 
summit  neai'ly  to  Ravenna,  where  the  valley  nar- 
rows and  continues  as  the  Soledad  Cafion  to  and 
beyond  Lang.  The  Soledad  is  a  wild  and  rug- 
ged cafloii,  a  "Robber's  Roost,"  but  was  never 
the  home  of  that  notorious  outlaw,  Tiburcio  Vas- 
quez.  This  murderous  chief  had  his  head-quarters 
near  Elizabeth  Lake,  about  25  miles  north-west 
of  Alpine,  and  he  ranged  all  over  the  mountains 
of  Southern  California. 

Jtavennaf  419.3  miles,  a  small  station  and 
cluster  of  houses  ocupied  by  Mexicans.  Here  is 
the  mill  in  which  the  Yucca  Draconis  is  crushed 
to  a  pulp  preparatory  to  its  shipment  to  a  paper- 
mill  near  San  Jos'^.  No  one  will  be  likely  to 
travel  long  in  Califc  .nia  and  not  see  the  California- 
quail  (Lophartyx  C'alifomicus)  ;  but  if  any  one 
has  failed,  he  may  .  urely  see  them  in  this  cafion, 
for  they  find  a  secure  home  in  these  impenetrable 
thickets.  The  plume,  or  crest,  has  from  three  to 
six  feathers,  about  an  inch  and  a  half  long,  anJ 
will  probably  be  erect,  though  it  is  often  low 
ered,  falling  over  the  bill.  This  quail  always 
roosts  on  trees. 

The  plumed  or  "mountain  quail"  (^Oreortyx 
Pietua),  with  a  crest  of  two  feathers  three  and  a 
half  inches  long,  is  never  found  south  of  the 
Tejon  (Tay-hone)  Pass. 

Deer  and  bear  are  also  plentiful  in  these  moun- 
tains. Before  leaving  Ravenna,  the  side  hills  on 
the  right  may  be  seen  honeycombed  with  tun- 
nels, built  during  a  brief  but  wild  mining  ex- 
citement. Tiiere  is  a  little  placer-mining  carried 
on  by  the  Mexicans,  who  farm  on  a  small  scale 
during  the  summer,  and  mine  on  the  same  scale 
during  the  wet  season. 

Between  Ravenna  and  Lang  are  tunnels  18  and 
19,  the  walls  of  the  cafion  900  feet  high,  the 
mountains  much  higher,  and  some  of  the  crooked- 
est  and  most  picturesoue  country  on  the  road.  It 
waa  in  this  region,  half  a  mile  east  of  Lang, 
where  the  "  last  spike"  waa  driven,  September 


5th,  1876,  which  completed  the  hne  between  Sai\ 
Francisco  and  Los  Angeles. 

Lang,  427.8  miles,  is  a  small  station. 

The  valley  grows  wider,  and  we  soon  find  a 
"stock  country."  As  we  reach  Newhall,  the 
road  leaves  the  main  Santa  Clara  Valley,  and 
turns  up  the  south  fork  of  the  Santa  Clara 
River  and  follows  this  nearly  to  Andrews. 

NewhaU,  <37.0  miles,  is  a  stage  station  where 
stages  connect  "laily  for  San  Buena  Ventura,  60 
miles  ;  Santa  Barbara',  80  miles,  and  there  con- 
necting with  the  covvst  line  of  stages  for  San  Luis 
Obispo,  Pass  Robles,  and  Soledad.  Local  fares, 
about  10  cents  a  mile. 

This  station  is  iii  the  midst  of  a  fine  grazing 
country. 

Andrews,  441.5  mile:;,  -v  small  station.  Here 
are  two  refineries  for  crude  petroleum,  which  is 
found  in  paying  quantities  a  few  miles  distant. 
The  oil  region  of  California  may  be  traced  in  a 
line  almost  straight  from  Watsonville,  in  Mon- 
terey County,  through  Santa  Barbara  and  Ventura 
counties  into  Los  Aitfelefi  County  at  San  Fer- 
nando, <vnd  thence  on  to  San  Bernardino.  The 
road  now  leaves  the  south  fork  of  the  river  and 
turns  up  the  cafion,  in  which  the  noi  th  portal  of 
the  San  Fernando  Tunnel  is  situated. 

The  Sierra  de  San  Fernando  Mountains  are  now 
directly  ahead.  There  was  no  prpcticahle  pass, 
hence  ore  of  the  longest  tunnels  in  America — 
6967  feet — in  which  the  lamps  will  be  needed  to 
keep  away  gloomy  thoughts,  for  nine  minutes  axe 
spent  by  all  trains  in  passing  through  it.  The 
Iloosac  is  the  only  tunnel  in  America  of  greater 
length.  This  tunv;- 1  is  approached  on  a  maxi- 
mum grade  of  116  feet,  and  at  the  north  end  has 
an  elevation  of  1479  feet.  In  the  tunnel  the 
grade  is  37  feet,  descending  southward.  It  is 
tim'itcred  from  end  to  end,  although  cut  through 
rock.  At  the  south  mouth  of  the  tunnel  we  find 
the  station  called 

San  Fernando  Tunnel,  444.4  miles. 

The  descending  grade  now  i-  — ^ases,  and  we 
drop  down  as  we  go  south  116  feet  per  mile  for 
about  five  miles,  down  the  San  Fernando  Creek, 
and  the  country  opens  into  the  San  Fernando 
Valley. 

San  Fernando,  449.6  miles.  Two  miles 
east  is  the  old  mission  of  the  same  name,  one  of 
the  most  interesting  in  the  State.  It  is  well  pre- 
served, and  its  gardens  beautifully  kept.  The 
building  is  locked,  but  the  keys  are  under  the 
care  of  the  Catholic  clergy  in  Los  Angles.  The 
groves  of  orange  and  kmou  trees  are  like  an  oasia 
to  one  who  rides  on  horseback  over  the  country. 

Interesting  specimens  oi'  cactus  are  on  all  sides. 
I^  is  one  of  the  Opuntias,  sometimes  called  the 
pad  cactus,  .ind  grows  twei  ty  feet  high.  Near 
San  Ferna^ido,  at  the  Tchunga  Wash,  are  beauti- 
ful specir.iens  of  the  Agave  Americana,  the  miost 
remarkable  of  all  the  agaves.     It  is  the  naipum 


842 


TMM  fiSiCinC  TQimiST. 


of  the  Mexicans,  commonly  called  the  American 
aloe,  or  century-plant.  It  is  frequently  seen  in 
the  gardens  of  California,  but  here  may  be  seen 
the  fleshy  spiny-toothed  leaves,  above  the  Ceano- 
thus  brevifolia  of-  the  region.  The  flower-stalk 
shoots  up  from  20  to  80  feet. 

Petroleum  is  found  in  Rice  CaHon,  not  far 
ajvay,  and  there  is  supposed  to  bo  a  j^eneral  diflFu- 
siop  of  oil  underlying  all  this  San  Fernando  dis- 
trict. 

Sepulveda,  463.1  miles,  is  a  side  track  on  the 
bank  of  the  Los  Angeles  River,  which  the  road 
crosses  near  the  depot. 

JjOS  AngeleSf  470.7  miles.  Ilcro  arc  lo- 
cated, near  the  depot,  the  shops  of  the  rail- 
road corapa  /  —  quite  a  town  of  themselves. 
It  is  the  metropolitan  city  of  Southern  Cali- 
fornia, with  a  population  of  about  lG,O0O,bankfl, 
wholesale  and  retail  stores,  shops  and  fac- 
tories and  hotelst  Of  the  latter  the  St. 
Charles  is  first-class.  It  has  many  impos- 
ing edifices  and  blocks  of  fine  buildings',  and  four 
daily  and  seven  weekly  papers.  The  dailies — 
the  Star,  Ej^tress,  Herald,  and  Hejiublican — circu- 
late over  all  of  Southern  California. 

The  city  was  founded  September  4th,  1781  ;  is 
situated  on  the  Los  Angeles  River,  30  miles  from 
its  mouth,  and  in  a  large  valley  that  fronts  on 
the  Pacific  Ocean  ;  and  has  two  rival  harbons, 
Wilmington  and  Santa  Monica.  The  area  of  the 
city  embraces  six  square  miles.  The  full  name 
of  the  city  is  Pumo  de  la  lieina  de  ha  Angelea 
('*  Town  of  the  Queen  of  the  Angels").  From 
every  point  of  the  city  the  panorama  is  grand, 
especially  when  the  Sierra  Madre  Mountains  arc 
in  the  background.  It  is  the  railroad  center  of 
Southern  California,  and  has  already  roads  ex- 
tending in  five  directions. 

It  is  the  seat  of  a  Roman  Catholic  bishop,  and 
has  a  cathedral  which  is  the  finest  church  build- 
ing outside  of  San  Francisco.  The  several  prom- 
inent Protestant  denominations  have  organiza- 
tions, including  the  Methodist,  Presbyterian,  and 
Episcopal.  The  Roman  Catholics  have  a  college 
located  here,  and  the  Sisters  of  Charity  a  female 
seminary  ;  and  besides  these  there  id  an  academic 
institute  and  good  public  schools. 

There  is  also  a  public  library,  an  organized  fire 
department,  and  the  city  is  supplied  with  gas  and 
water,  and  has  street  railroads  extendins,'  from  the 
center  in  every  direction.  It  was  made  a  city 
and  the  capital  of  California  by  the  Mexican  Con- 
gress in  1880,  and  captured  by  the  United  States 
forces  under  Commodore  Stockton  and  General 
Kearney  in  1846.  It  is  celebrated  for  a  mild  and 
equable  climate,  fertile  soil,  the  luxuriant  growth 
of  semi-tropical  fruits  and  flowers,  and  tlie  abun- 
dant products  of  its  vineyards  and  orange  groves- 
Southern  California  has  recently  enjoyed  great 
prosperity  and  Luu  Angeles  aspires  to  be  the  capi- 
tal of  a  new  stat«. 


jLo8  AngeleH   and   Independence 
Railroad, 

Leased  to  the  Central  Pacifio. 

This  road  was  built  by  Senator  Jones,  and 
opened  December  lOth,  1875.  It  connects  Los 
Angeles  and  Santa  Monica,  giving  this  southern 
metropolis  its  best  seaport,  and  affording  it  and 
the  city  of  San  Francisco  an  all-rail  connection 
with  the  "  Long  Branch  "  of  the  Pacific  Coast. 
It  wivs  projected  towards  Independence,  and  to 
connect  with  the  Utah  Southern,  or  Union 
Pacific.  Considerable  tunnel-work  was  done  at 
Cajon  Pass.  In  1877  the  franchise  and  work 
were  purchased  from  the  original  owners  and 
leased  to  the  Southern  Pacific. 

Trains  leave  Los  Angeles  for  Santa  Monica 
every  morning  and  every  afternoon. 

Alter  leaving  Los  Angeles,  the  road  passes 
through  the  beautiful  orange  groves  in  the 
vicinity,  and  soon  turns  directly  toward  the 
coast.  There  are  no  important  stations  on  the  line 
of  the  road,  but  the  San  Fernando  Mountains  in 
the  north,  and  many  pleasant  homes,  and  corn 
growing  to  maturity  without  rain  or  irrigation, 
may  bo  seen  from  the  cars. 

Santa  Monira  is  a  new  town,  begun  in  1875, 
and  has  now  about  lOOO  residents.  The  town 
site  is  a  mile  s«]uare,  and  has  a  ])ark  of  five  acres. 
It  is  supplied  witli  water  from  the  San  Vincente 
Springs,  three  miles  distant,  and  has  a  weekly 
paper,  the  Santa  Monira  Outlook.  There  are  two 
churches  »nd  a  good  .school -house,  and  one  of  the 
best  hotels  on  the  coast,  the  "Santa  Monica 
House."  It  has  ample  accommodations  for  200 
guests. 

The  situation  of  the  town  is  charming.  It  is 
on  a  horseshoe  bend  in  the  coast,  that  gives  it  a 
land-locked  advantage  for  vessels,  and  the  best 
surf  of  the  ocean  for  bathing.  From  Point  Duni<5 
on  the  north  to  Point  Vincent  on  the  south  is  28 
miles,  and  a  line  drawn  across  from  jwint  to 
point  would  be  ten  miles  from  Santa  Monica. 
But  the  shelter  of  the  harbor  is  increased  by  a 
group  of  outlyinur  islands  which  add  ])icturesque- 
ness  to  the  lovely  view  from  the  commanding 
town.  Point  Dumas  is  18  miles  north-west.  Point 
Vincent  20  miles  south-west.  Artacapa,  Santa 
Cruz,  Santa  Rosa,  and  San  Miguel  are  all  islands 
in  a  line  west  of  Point  DumC' — the  continuation 
of  the  Santa  Monica  range  of  mountains.  Santa 
Rosa  is  01  miles  west,  and  San  Miguel  hidden  be- 
hind it.  On  the  south-west  is  Santa  Barbara,  25 
miles,  and  San  Nicholas,  87  miles,  and  40  miles 
south  is  Santa  Catalina.  On  the  north  there  is  a 
beautiful  backfrround  in  the  "  saw  teeth  "  of  the 
S.vn  iSIadre  ranpe.  The  natural  barriers  of  the 
harbor  afford  the  bent  shelter  on  the  southern 
coa.st  north  of  San  Diego,  and  make  the  gently 


wm 


FMB  9;§CIFtC  T@W®iSW. 


343 


eloping,  hard  sandy  beach  entirely  free  from, 
undertow.  The  i-equisite  of  good  bathing  in 
the  temperature  is  abont  perfect  at  this  i)lace. 

The  air,  as  modified  in  this  region,  is  moat 
agreeable  and  invigorating,  and  has  proved 
worthy  the  highest  praise  as  a  resort  for  many 
persons  troubled  with  asthma. 

See  *'  Health  and  Pleasure  resorts." 

It  has  a  solid  and  substantial  ^vharf,  1,475 
feet  long. 

The  roads  are  peculiarly  good,  and  in  tlie 
oafions  of  the  mountains  there  are  many  b<>uutiful 
camping  and  picnic  grounds.  In  the  vicinity  on 
the  south  are  ducks,  geese,  and  all  sea-fowl  in 
great  abundance,  and  in  the  mountains  on  the 
north  quail  and  hirger  game,  and  the  ocean 
affords  line  rishing  for  mackerel  and  smelts. 

In  short,  SantaMonica  has  the  climate,  scenery, 
natural  advantages,  and  conveniences  that  make 
it  unequaled  as  a  seaside  resort. 


WUnUngton    ZHvision,  Soutliem 
I*acific  Railroad, 

On  this  division  two  trains  are  run  daily  be- 
tween Los  Angeles  and  Wilmington.  Leaving 
Los  Angeles,  one  travels  through  a  succession  of 
orange  groves  and  fruit  orchards  to 

Florence,  0  miles  from  Los  Angeles.  This  is 
the  point  ot  divergence  of  the  Los  Angeles  and 
San  Diego  Railroad. 

Compton,  11  miles  from  Los  Angeles,  is  m  a 
fertile  and  well-cultivated  region,  and  is  the  most 
important  settlement  on   the   line   of  the  road. 

Dotniuguez  and 

Cenritos  are  small  stations. 

WUmington,  22  miles  from  Los  Angeles,  is 
the  terminus.  It  has  a  population  of  only  500, 
and  is  not  so  favorably  situated  as  to  insure  its 
rapid  growth.  Until  .Santa  Monica  became  its 
rival  as  the  port  of  Los  Angeles,  it  had  a  lively 
aspect  at  times,  and  it  derived  considerable  im- 
portance from  the  j)resenoe  of  the  army  when  it 
was  tl.o  head-quarters  of  the  Department  of" 
Southern  California  and  Arizona. 

The  harbor  is  not  accessible  to  large  vessels, 
and  tliese  are  compelled  to  discharge  by  means  of 
lighters  from  San  Pedro,  two  miles  below.  The 
erection  of  a  breakwater  is  in  progress,  and  in  it 
the  government  has  already  spent  more  than  half 
a  million  dollars.  The  breakwater  will  be  0700 
feet  long.  The  jetty  so  far  as  completed  is  very 
strong  and  solid,  and  ai)parently  impregnable  to 
all  assaults  of  the  water.  By  confining  the  channel 
it  deepens  itself.  Now  there  is  only  12  feet  of 
water  at  the  wharf,  and  this  gradually  deepens  to 
22  feet  at  the  bar.  Eventually  there  will  be  at 
least  one  safe  refuge  for  all  kinds  of  vessels  in 
all  kinds  of  weather  between  San  Diego  and  Sau 


Francisco,  and  Los  Angeles  will  have  such  A  har- 
bor as  its  commercial  importance  deserves. 

Firmin  Point  is  the  most  prominent  point  on 
the  west,  and  has  a  lighthouse  on  it  witli  a  light 
of  the  first  order.  A  number  of  islands  lie  near 
the  coast.  Rattlesnake  in  front,  Deadman's,  a 
rocky  peak,  at  t.e  end  of  the  breakwater,  and 
Santa  Catalina  20  miles  distant. 

Wilmington  looks  like  a  deserted  place,  and 
changes  its  appearance  very  frequently  with  the 
sand-storms  that  are  common  to  the  region,  often 
piling  sand  like  snow  in  immense  drifts. 


H 


The  Los  Angeles  and  San  J>iego 
Railroad, 

The  company  which  owns  and  has  constructed 
this  road  in  part  was  incorporated  October  10th, 
1876.  The  road  is  built  from  Florence,  six  miles 
west  of  Los  Angeles,  to  Santa  Ana,  a  distance  of 
twenty-seven  miles,  and  will  be  extended  to  San 
Diego.  The  Los  Angeles  River  is  crossed  near 
Florence. 

Dourney,  12  miles  from  Los  Angeles,  is  a  small 
town  of  500  people,  but  prosperous.  Irrigation 
is  essential  in  all  this  part  of  the  State,  but  with 
abundant  water,  good  grain,  fruits,  and  vegetables 
are  assured.  Here  there  is  a  supply  from  the  San 
Gabriel  River,  the  river  crossed  soon  after  leav- 
ing the  station. 

NorivaUc,  17  miles,  and 

Costa,  23  miles,  are  both  small  stations. 

Anaheim,  26  miles  from  Los  Angeles,  is  one 
of  the  most  important  towns  of  Southern  Cali- 
fornia. It  was  settled  by  a  colony  of  Germans, 
and  their  tltrift  is  quite  apparent  on  every  hand. 
Water  from  the  Santa  Ana  River  is  used  for  irri- 
gation, and  along  the  ditches  are  dense  rows  of 
willows,  poplars,  eucalyptus,  pepper,  acacia,  and 
other  beautiful  trees.  The  population  1°  about 
ir;00.  The  town  has  a  weekly  paper,  the  Anaheim 
Oazettc,  two  good  hotels,  and  -iiany  buildings 
quite  creditable  to  the  young  an.i  rising  place. 

A  few  miles  distant  is  tiie  Westminster  colony, 
water  for  which  is  had  from  artesian  wells  and 
is  quite  abundant.  It  is  one  of  the  most  flour- 
ishing colonies  of  the  State.  Anaheim  was  the 
first  of  tlicse  colonies  on  a  large  scale,  deriving 
its  water  from  tlie  river,  and  Westminster  the 
first  deriving  its  water  from  artesian  wells.  Both, 
ns  well  as  others  starte,d  since,  have  been  emi- 
nently successful.  Anaheim  has  a  landing  on 
the  ocean  about  ten  miles  from  the  town,  and  to 
tliis  the  steamers  of  the  Pacific  Coast  Steam- 
ship Company  make  regular  trips. 

Orauffe,  31  miles  from  Los  Angeles,  is  anoth- 
er flourishing  colony,  obtaining  water  from  the 


344 


TME  ^saCIFIC  TOVmiST. 


Santa  Ana  River.    Tb«  road  crosses  the  river  on  a 
long  bridge  just  before  reaching  the  town  of 

Santa  Ana, — 33  miles  from  Los  Angeles. 
This,  too,  is  one  of  the  colonies  in  the  great  val- 
ley, where  cactus  land  worth  95  an  acre  rises  to 
^00  or  9300  an  acre  soon  after  water  has  been 
turned  upon  it.  Santa  Ana  h^  derived  coiiHid- 
erable  importance  from  being  the  terminus  of  the 
railroad,  and  now  has  daily  sta^res  for  San  Juan 
Capistrano,  24  miles  south-east  (fare,  92.50)  ;  San 
Luia  Rey,  65  miles  (fare,  $3) ;  and  San  Diego, 
100  miles  (fare,  910). 

iSrt»  Diego, — the  objective  point  of  this  road, 
is  the  oldest  town  in  California,  and  well  known 
in  all  lands.  Its  history,  beautiful  situation,  nat- 
ural advantages,  and  remarkable  climate,  which 
Agassiz  said  was  "  its  capital " — all  make  it  in- 
teresting and  important. 

It  is  the  oldest  settlement  in  the  State,  the 
mission  having  been  founded  in  1769.  It  is  des- 
ignated as  the  western  terminus  of  the  Texas  and 
Pacific  Railroad,  and  with  its  prospects  and  prob- 
abilities in  this  direction  corner  lots  have  gone 
up  and  down  like  a  jumt)ing-jack. 

It  b  situated  on  San  Diego  Bay,  about  12  miles 
long  and  2  wide,  with  30  feet  of  water  at  low 
tide,  and  good  anchorage.  It  is  one  of  the  love- 
liest of  harbors,  and  greatly  resembles  that  of 
Liverpool.  Excepting  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco, 
there  is  nothing  like  it  between  the  Isthmus  and 
Puget  Sound. 

For  miles  along  the  bay  the  land  rises  gently 
toward  the  interior,  making  a  location  for  a  city 
unexcelled  in  all  the  world. 

Its  climate  has  long  been  noted,  and  its  reputa- 
tion as  a  sanitarium  is  deservedly  great  The 
mercury  never  falls  below  40**  in  winter,  nor  rises 
above  80"  in  summer.  The  sea-bathing  is  fine, 
the  drivea  charming,  and  the  vegetation  luxuri- 
ant. 

It  haa  a  population  of  about  5,000,  is  the  county 
town  of  San  Diego  County,  and  has  a  large  num- 
ber of  good  buildings.  The  Horton  House,  a 
hotel  erected  at  a  cost  of  9175,000,  is  not  sur- 
passed by  any  house  outside  of  San  Francisco. 

But  with  all  her  natural  advantages  and  beau- 
tiful situation,  others  will  never  concede  to  her 
the  importance  she  claims,  and  she  will  never 
be  satisfied  unless  she  realizes  her  hopes  in  be- 
coming the  terminus  of  a  transcontinental  rail- 
road, and  a  chief  gate  in  the  highway  of  the 
nations. 

San  Diego  Is  reached  by  the  steamers  of  the 
Pacific  Coast  Steamship  Company,  and  will  no 
doubt  be  more  largely  patronized  by  health 
and  pleasure  seekers  whenever  the  city  enjovs 
railroad  commuuicatiou  with  the  rest  ai  tne 
world, 
world,  a  day  not  far  distant. 

Leaving  Los  Angeles  for  Arizona,  the  road 
taxns  eaat,  recrossea  the  Los  Angeles  River  and 


goes  into  the  San  Qabrlel  Valley,  and  on  eaat 
to  San  Oorgonio  Pass. 

San  Gabriel  is  0.2  miles  from  Los  Angeles, 
and  the  station  for  San  Oabriel  Valley,  which  lies 
to  the  right  and  is  watered  by  the  San  Qabriel 
River.  It  is  the  seat  of  an  old  mission  of  the 
same  numc  founded  September  8th,  1771.  This 
is  now  dilapidated,  us  arc  all  these  old  Spanish 
missions,  but  the  ancient  bells  still  hang  in  their 
belfry.  It  has  the  oldest  orange  orchard  in  the 
State. 

Near  this  station  is  an  orchard  of  500  acres,  the 
largest  in  the  State — that  of  Mr.  L.  J.  Rose.  It 
has  oranges,  lemons,  olives,  figs,  limes,  walnuts, 
almonds,  bananas,  pineapples,  and  almost  every 
variety  of  tropical  and  semi-tropical  nuts  and 
fruits. 

The  Sierra  Madre  Villa  is  a  lovely  spot,  where 
stands  a  hotel  well  appointed  and  kept,  1800 
feet  above  the  sea,  overlooking  the  thousands  of 
groves  in  the  Los  Angeles  Valley. 

The  choicest  of  all  the  "Los  Angeles  orange 
groves"  are  in  this  valley. 

John  Muir  says  :  "  The  sun  valley  of  San  Qa- 
briel is  one  of  the  brightest  spots  to  be  found  in 
all  our  bright  land,  and  most  of  its  brightness  is 
wildncss — wild,  south  sunshine  in  a  basin  rimmed 
abou6  with  mountains  and  hills." 

And  Dr.  Congar,  his  friend,  says  to  him  :  "  I 
have  rambled  ever  since  we  left  college,  tasting 
innumerable  climates,  and  trying  the  wivantages 
offered  by  nearly  every  new  State  and  Territory. 
Here  I  have  made  my  home,  and  here  I  shall  stay 
while  I  live.  The  geographical  position  is  exact- 
ly right,  soil  and  climate  perfect,  and  every  thing 
that  heart  can  wish  comes  for  our  efforts — flowers, 
fruits,  milk  and  honey,  and  plenty  of  money." 

Mr.  Muir  also  says  persons  suffering  from 
advanced  pulmonary  disease  are  not  benefited 
here,  and  too  many  seek  these  delightful  regions 
too  late  and  only  to  die. 

After  passing  the  old  mission  of  Ban  Gabriel, 
and  crossing  the  river  of  the  same  name,  the  road 
follows  a  tributary  of  the  river  known  as  the  San 
Jos6  Creek  to  the  plains  in  the  direction  of  San 
Semardino. 

Savanna,  11.7  miles  from  Los  Angeles,  is  a 
small  station  with  fruitful  fields  of  com  and 
grain,  and  beautiful  groves  of  oranges  and  lem- 
ons, and  large  vineyards  around  it.  The  Ban 
Gabriel  Valley  is  still  on  the  right. 

Monte,  13.1  miles,  is  the  old  town  of  £1 
Monte,  a  thriving'  place  in  a  perfect  garden-spot. 
It  is  almost  impo.isible  to  keep  the  weeds  from 
choking  the  com ;  but  for  all  that,  the  com  is 
not  stunted.  Much  of  the  corn  is  fed  to  hogs 
without  being  shipped. 

Puente,  10.3  miles  from  Los  Angeles,  is  a  sig- 
nal station,  around  which  Mexicans  are  numerous 
I,  in  fact,  they  arc  in  all  Southeru  California, 


TMM  ^siciFic  roemisr. 


845 


i'h 


constituting    about   one    fourth    of   the  whole 
people. 

Spadrtlt  20.8  miles,  is  just  600  miles  from 
San  Francisco,  and  a  town  of  a  few  houses. 

Pomona,  32.8  miles,  is  a  pretty  town  of  500 
people,  with  luxurious  vegetation.  Artesian  wells 
supply  water  for  the  town  and  for  irrigation.  A 
reservoir  holding  :t,000,000  gallons  is  connected 
with  the  works. 

Cueatnongaf  42.3  miles,  is  only  a  signal  sta- 
tion, near  a  ranch  of  the  same  name  famed  for  its 
wines. 

JUneon  settlement  is  ten  miles  south,  irrigated 
by  the  Santa  Ana  River.  This  river  rises  in  the 
San  Bernardino  Mountains,  and  is  sometimes 
called  the  San  Bernardino  River.  Its  waters 
irrigate  numerous  colonies,  among  them  River- 
side, Santa  Ana,  Orange,  and  Anaheim. 

Cotton,  57.5  miles,  is  named  after  General 
D.D.CJolton,  a  former  vicp-presidont  of  the  road. 
Trains  going  east  stop  here  for  supper,  and  com- 
ing west  stop  for  breakfast.  It  has  only  200 
people,  but  a  busy  set,  for  it  is  the  depot  for  Sun 
Bernardino  on  the  north  and  Riverside  on  the 
south,  and  is  itself  the  seat  of  a  promising  col- 
ony. Owing  to  the  nature  of  the  soil,  it  is  free 
from  all  malarial  influences,  and  has  probably 
as  desirable  a  climate  for  invalids  as  any  place  on 
the  coast. 

Colton  is  the  seat  of  a  new  and  promising  col- 
ony, one  having  20,000  acres  of  land  divided 
into  farms  of  10  acres  and  upward.  Another, 
the  Slova  Mountain  Colony,  adjoins  the  town, 
and  has  flne  soil  and  pure  water  from  Mix's  Ranch. 

The  railroad  comiiany  has  large  warehouses  to 
accommodate  the  freight  from  San  Bernardino 
and  Riverside.  Stages  connect  with  all  trains 
for  these  two  towns.  Fare  to  San  Bernardino,  50 
cents  ;  to  Riverside,  75  cents.  Near  the  siation 
on  the  left  is  Slova  Mountain,  from  which  marble 
is  obtained. 

Bwernde  is  7  miles  south-west  of  Colton.  It 
has  2000  ])eople,  three  churches,  and  good 
schools,  and  8000  acres  of  choice  a^ricultunil 
land  supplied  with  abundant  water  for  irr  ,'ation. 
It  luis  all  the  advantages  of  climate  that  arc  found 
in  the  San  Bernardino  Valley,  and  its  dry  air 
nves  it  a  claim  to  be  called  the  '*  Asthmatic's 
Paradise. ' '  With  mountains  on  nearly  every  side, 
its  situation  is  beautiful. 

Twenty  miles  south-west  are  the  Tenuimil 
Warm  Springs,  on  a  plateau  of  Temescal  Moun- 
tain, 1600  feet  above  a  valley  of  the  same  name. 
Frost  is  not  known  at  this  place,  owing  to  a  belt 
of  warm  air  in  which  the  springs  are  found. 

8tta  Bernnrdino,  4  miles  north  of  Colton,  is  the 
county  town  of  Sao  Bernardino  County,  and  has 
a  population  of  0000,  two  banks,  four  churches, 
good  hotels,  two  daily  and  two  weekly  news- 
papers. Nordhoff  says  it  has  a  climate  in  winter 
imferable  to  that  of  Los  Angeles,  and  no  hotter 


in  summer.  Two  hundred  artesian  wells  spout 
out  pure  cold  water  that  ripples  through  beauti- 
ful streets,  orchards,  and  orange  groves.  The 
valley  contains  2500  s<|uaro  miles,  with  variety  of 
climate  as  you  ascend  the  mountain.  It  is  free 
from  the  fogs  of  the  coast,  and  strawberries  may 
be  picked  in  winter  as  well  us  summer. 

Old  San  Jkniardiiio  is  al.soatown  in  this  valley 
near  the  railroad.  It  was  the  flrst  settlement, 
the  home  of  the  Mormons  who  located  in  1847. 
All  now  remaining  are  "  Josephites. "  Here  are 
the  oldest  orange  groves  in  the  valley,  and  the 
fruit  of  this  region  and  Riverside  surpasses  that 
of  San  (Jubriel  or  any  part  of  the  coast  in  sweet- 
ness and  appearance.  It  is  free  from  the  black 
saline  rust  that  covers  so  much  of  the  golden 
color  nenrer  the  coast. 

Crafton's  Retreat,  Arrowhead,  and  Waterman's 
Mineral  Springs  are  places  of  resort  in  this  vicin- 
ity, and  all  the  valleys  and  mountains  abcund  with 
game.  Quail,  deer,  and  rabbits  are  especially 
plentiful. 

Soon  after  leaving  Colton,  the  road  crosses  the 
Santa  Ana  River,  and  continues  an  easterly  course 
through  Old  San  Bernardino,  and  up  the  San 
Miguel  Creek  to  the  San  Gorgonio  Pass,  where  the 
San  Bernardino  and  San  Jacmto  ranges  \mite. 

Mound  City,  GO.O  miles, 

EH  CfMco,  72  miles,  and 

San  QorgoniOf  80.6  miles,  are  all  signal 
stations. 

There  is  nothing  inviting  in  the  character  of 
the  soil,  and  but  little  for  the  tourist  to  mitis 
while  he  sleeps  as  the  train  ascends  to  the  San 
Gorgonio  Pass,  2592  feet  above  Wan  sea.  Here 
the  descent  b'^gins,  the  road  passing  down  the 
broad  open  valley  without  following  any  defined 
W!>tercour«<f>  until  it  ler^chea  White  Water  River, 
a  durable  stream  of  water  Sowing  out  of  the  Sas 
Bernardino  range.  At  this  point  liio  valley  grjww 
ibroader,  and  finally  opens  out  into  what  is  kaown 
ns  Cabazon  Valley,  down  which  the  road  con- 
tinues to  Indio. 

Sanning,  86.8  miles,  is  ^  signal  station,  and 

Cabazon,  02.7,  a  telegraph  station.  Wood 
from  the  San  Jacinto  Mountai  as  on  the  south  is 
brought  down  to  the  railroad  at  this  ^jornt. 

Named  from  the  Indianc. 

White  Water,  101.2  miles,  no  .ned  from  the 
creek,  signifying  its  great  importance  in  a  dr^ 
and  thirsty  land.  It  is  in  the  midst  of  the  cacti, 
nwny  varieties  being  found  here.  The  cactus 
grows  only  in  gravelly  land,  and  the  zone  of  it 
will  disappear  and  reappear  again  near  Mammoth 
Tank.  There  are  many  forms  of  the  Maniillaria, 
Echinocactus,  and  several  of  the  Opuntia,  but 
none  of  the  Cereus. 

The  Opuntias  are  with  both  cylindrical  and 
elliptical  stems.     The  spinose  Opuntia  the  Mex- 
icans call  Ghoya. 
The  gigantic  "nigger-head'*  (Eehinocaetut  Oy- 


iJ 

> 


r 


84ft 


fWJT  PsiCiFMC  roi^isr. 


lindriweuH)  lifts  its  bristlin^f  trunk  sotin'timcs  four 
feet,  niid  is  thrro  fct-t  in  diiinu'ter,  covered  with 
flsh-hoolis.  Tho  Mexicans  mil  it  Wwi«</rt.  It  ciin 
be  roasted  to  secure  n  drink  that  will  collect  in  a 
central  cavity,  and  its  fruit  can  bu  eaten  in  smull 
quantities. 

San<lstorm8  are  a  noteworthy  characteristic  of 
tliis  desert,  and  especially  1)etween  White  Water 
und  Walters.  They  occur  durinj^  the  winter  and 
8])ring.  Th.!  winds  como  jirincipaliy  from  the 
north-west,  raising  and  carrying  before  them  great 
#ioudH  of  pulverized  sand  and  dust.  The  ap- 
proach of  the  storm  may  bo  scr-n  when  it  is  dis- 
tant several  hours.  The  fine  dust  will  ])cnetrate 
every  thing.  No  garments  are  protection  against 
it.  Tneso  storms  last  generally  one  day,  some- 
times three  days. 

Seven  Palms,  108.7  miles,  a  signal  station. 

Between  Sc^'en  Palms  and  Indio  there  may  be 
Been  on  the  north  and  east  occasional  groves  of 
palm-trees,  along  the  foot-slopes  of  the  San  Ber- 
nardino Mountains.  This  is  the  only  opparfuinfi/ 
to  M'e  pnlm-trees  on  all  the  road,  and  a  good  pic- 
ture of  them  will  be  more  satisfactory.  These 
distant  ones  (Brahia  Mexienna)  are  like  the  ])al- 
metto  of  Houth  Carolina  except  in  the  extremr; 
roughness  of  the  serration  of  the  leaf-stalk.  They 
g  row  to  a  height  of  00  feet.  These  are  also  the 
only  kind  of  piiliii-trees  to  befour;loP  the  desert. 

Tlie  numerous  forms  of  the  etreus,  i.nd  one  of 
•which,  the  candelabra,  culled  b,'  the  Mexicans 
taghunrii,  sometimes  two  and  a  half  feet  thick 
and  fifty  feet  high,  are  found  only  cast  of  the 
Colorado  River. 

Emigrants  crossing  the  desert  from  the  cast 
hailed  these  groves  with  joy,  for  water  could  be 
had  either  in  sjjrings  or  near  the  surface,  wher- 
ever the  palm-tree  grows.  About  three  or  four 
miles  west  of  Indio,  the  road  goes  below  sen- 
level,  and  continues  below  for  about  01  miles  1 
>  Jndio,  120.5  miles,  is  a  signal  station,  20  feet 
below  sea -level  I 

Sttgebmsh  is  nowhere  found  on  this  desert,  and 
but  little  of  it  on  the  Mojave  Plains.  Here  wo 
find  two  of  the  species  of  the  mesquite-treo  ( 1) 
the  flat  pod  (Algarobia  GlKudntoiui),  and  (2)  the 
screw-bean  {StroinlMcarpa  Pi/'jeare/iM).  The  flat  pod 
is  the  largest,  most  abund.'iit,  and  most  valuable. 
The  long,  boan-shay  /i  pod  is  greedily  devoured 
by  cattle,  and  higlily  nutritious.  A  gum  exudes 
from  the  tree  which  closely  resembles  gum  arabic 
in  its  chemical  characters.  The  trees  grow  15 
^JT  20  feet  high.  The  screw-bean  mei> quite  is  a 
smaller  tree  than  the  flat  pod,  in  scime  localities 
much  rarer,  and  is  less  valimhle  for  foocl. 

Walters f  142.8  miles,  is  where  passenger  trains 
meet.  It  is  135  feet  below  the  sea-level.  Eleven 
miles  east  of  Walters  is  the  lowest  point  reached, 
the  minns  elevation  being  206^^  feet !  The  low- 
est point  of  the  valley  is  287^  feet,  and  the  whole 
depression  is  about  100  miles  Ion<r  and  from  10 


to  50  ndles  wide.  In  the  lowest  levels  is  found 
an  immense  de|M)sit  of  rock  salt,  destined  to  boa 
source  of  great  industry. 

J}os  PaltnoH,  100.2  miles,  is  a  telegraph  sta- 
tion, and  the  only  idaeo  between  Colton  and 
Yuma  at  wliirh  there  is  local  traftic. 

Stages  leave  this  point  on  ultirnnte  days  for 
Eiirenberg,  100  miles,  Wic;kenberg,  2il«  miles, 
and  Prescoll,  207  miles.  Fare,  about  20  cents  a 
mile — to  Khrenberg,  $20. 

■  )os  Palmos  is  about  7  miles  from  an  old  stage- 
statioi.  where  two  palm-trees  grew  by  the  side  ol 
a  large,  spring — hence  its  name. 

Frink*a  Spring,  171.1  miles,  a  signal  sta- 
tion.    Depression,  200  feet. 

Five  miles  south  are  mud  springs,  covering 
many  miles.  Some  look  like  craters.  Mr.  Hood, 
who  has  visited  and  examined  them,  is  of  the 
opinion  that  the  hot  water  dissolves  and  carries 
off  the  mud  about  the  mouth,  and  thereby  caiwes 
the  ground  to  cav(!.  Gases  and  steam  issue  from 
some  of  these,  although  no  geyser  action  has 
been  noticed  there  so  extensive  as  Major  Heintzel- 
man  reported,  in  November,  1852,  from  another 
locality  al)out  4.5  miles  south-west  of  Yuma. 

Between  this  station  and  Flowing  Well  are 
some  new  and  striking  forms  of  vegetation  that 
will  grow  more  abundant.  Among  them  are  the 
'' nalo  verdc,"  the  "  ocotilla"  (oc-co-tee'-yah), 
"  iron-wood"  tree,  and  the  "galleta"  (gnh-yoe' 
tay)  grass.  Palo  terde  is  the  Mexican  for  green 
pr.le.  This  { Ccrddiii in  Fhriflurn)  rcsemhlva  the 
willow  slightly,  and  flowers  in  May.  It  is  then 
almost  covered  with  beautiful,  sweet  trumpet- 
shaped  flowers.  In  fruit  it  bears  an  abundance 
of  beans. 

From  Dos  Palmos  to  a  poi'it  between  Frink's 
Spring  and  Flowing  Well  there  is  no  bnish — 
nothing  but  complet'-  T.."..-.ie  and  utter «lesolation. 

Flowing  Well,  1H8.H  miles,  with  an  elevation 
of  5  feet  above  sea-level.  Here  an  artesian  well 
was  bored,  and  at  100  feet  obtained  a  fine  flow  of 
water,  but  it  was  "  marah" — tooKult  to  use.  All 
the  stations  to  Yuma  are  now  only  signal  stations 
— I. /■.,  the  train  runs  8Mi  miles — we  may  almost 
say  from  Colton,  101  miles — without  local  traftic. 

Between  Flowing  Well  and  the  Colorado  River 
there  is  an  abundance  of  the  creasote-bush 
(iMrren  Mi'j-icnnn).  It  is  often  included  in  the 
vague  term  "  grease- wood. "  Between  Mammoth 
Tank  and  Yuma  it  is  the  prevailing  underl)rush. 
The  leaf  is  waxy-like,  the  biirk  very  dark  brown, 
almost  black,  and  it  grows  about  breast  high. 
Having  risen  from  below  the  level  of  the  sea,  from 
this  point  to  the  Colormlo  River  liottom  there  may 
be  found  again  the  desert  growths  some  of  which 
were  noticed  at  White  Water  ami  Indio. 

Tortuffa,  104.8  miles,  has  an  altitude  of  188 
feet. 

Mammoth  Tank,  200.0  miles,  named  from  a 
natural  tank,  8^  miles  from  the  station,  with  a  ca- 


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THE  THOTTSANT*   WELLS.    AUTZONA. 


VIEW  OP  PBESCOTl,    CVPriAIi  OP  ABIZONA. 


S48 


tmm  ^^cMFic  Totmisr. 


peusity  of  10,000  gallons.     Such  wells  are  called 
by  the  Mcxicana  tinajas.     Borne  are  formed  in 

gullies  and  arroyos  on  the  aides  of  the  mountains 
y  dams  composed  of  fragments  of  rock  and  sand, 
or  woni  out  of  the  solid  rock  where  the  water  fells 
down  upon  it.  Between  this  station  and  \  uma 
may  be  seen  the  most  striking  plant  on  these 
wastes.  The  Mexicans  call  it  oeotilla  (oc-co- 
teo'yah) — the  Fimqnierm  Splendent.  It  grows  in 
clumps  consisting  of  from  twelve  to  twenty  long 
wand-like  branches,  which  spring  from  the  main 
Htcm  close  to  the  ground,  and  rise  to  a  height  of 
from  10  to  15  feet.  The  stems  are  beset  with  rows 
of  spines  from  the  axils  of  which  grow  small 
fascicles  of  leaves.  The  whole  stem  is  finally 
covered  Avith  bright  green,  and  beneath  this 
vivid  cover  are  hid  piercing  thorns.  The  flower 
is  on  the  top  of  the  stem,  six  or  eight  inches  long, 
and  consists  of  many  dark  purple  blossoms. 
Good  fences  are  made  of  these  poles.  They 
continue  gi-een  for  years  after  being  set  in  the 
groiutd.  It  h  suid  they  never  flower  if  the  tops 
are  once  cut  off.  In  the  bark  is  a  green  layer  of 
chlorophyl,  and  through  this  wonderful  provision 
of  nature  w«j  have  a  green  tree  without  leaves  ! 
Sometimes  it  looks  like  a  dry  thorny  stick,  b..: 
after  a  rain  it  becomes  greener,  and  if  the  rain  . 
flufflcient  the  green  leaves  will  appear  in  bunches. 
Sometimes  it  flowers  without  j)utting  out  a  leaf  ! 
A  single  growth  is  also  marked  by  rings  around 
the  stem. 

Here  also  arc  large  btinches  of  grass  (arittida), 
fialled  by  the  Mexicans  galleta  (g-ah-yeo'-tay) 
(^rass. 

Here  J"  found  also  the  desert  willow  (Chihjm* 
LiiiMtu),  with  beautiful  willow-liko  ft.'liago  an«l 
delicate  pink  and  wlut«!  trunipet-HhajM'd  flowers. 
Here  is  also  the  iron-wood  {OlMija  Tcmtn),  re- 
sembling the  locust,  especially  in  its  blossom, 
which  is  pink  or  purple  and  al)undant,  covering 
the  whole  tree  in  May.  "  The  beans  when  roaatetl 
aro  quite  edible — much  like  p«?anuts.  This  is  the 
mott  common  tree  between  Manunoth  Tank  and 
Yuma. 

JfesqrwW^P,  311.1)  mitt  a. 

Cw^us,  "220.7  miles.  This  station  was  named 
from  the  abundance  of  the  Ccotilla,  which  was 
8upiK>sed  by  many  to  be  cactus. 

From  Mammotii  Tank  the  road  has  been 
"scending,  and  here  the  elevation  i.s  31HI  fee' 
The  summit  is  near  the  station,  and  ".'.il  feet  ele- 
vation. Adding  to  this  the  flepression  of  2<1<1 
laet,  and  the  whole  lise  is  nearly  equal  to  that  in 
yb«  Llvemiore  Pass.  From  this  point  the  road 
lescenda  to  the  Colorado  River,  Yiuna  City  hav- 
ing an  elevttftion  of  140  feet 

To  the  left  will  bo  noticed  a  prominent  peak, 
yellowish  in  anpearanco.  It  ha-n  not  yet  been 
iMimed  «xc«pt  m  the  local  dialect,  "  Cargo  Mu- 
ohnoho." 


Pilot  Knob,  239.3  miles,  is  only  a  mile  from  a 
peak  of  the  same  name,  seen  on  the  right. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Yuma,  in  the  bottom  of  the 
Colorado  River,  are  found  both  kinds  of  me* -.ite, 
and  the  arrow-weed  {Tettarut  liareaUti),  consisting 
of  straight  shoots  from  4  to  8  feet  high,  with  a 
silvery  pubescence  on  the  leaves.  It  is  the  princi- 
pal gru'fth  of  the  Colorado  River  bottoms. 

Before  crossing  the  river,  the  road  runs  near 
Port  Yuma,  a  military  post  established  in  1852. 
It  is  situated  on  a  bluff,  with  a  commanding  view. 
Tne  garrison  is  small,  and  with  the  advance  of 
civili^tion  promises  to  bo  withdrawn  before 
many  years. 

The  fort  is  on  a  butte  rising  al)OUt  200  feet  above 
the  river  bottom,  and  along  the  river  is  a  bold 
cliff  of  the  same  height.  Tn^  river  is  about  300 
yards  wide  at  this  iwint,  and  near  it  the  Colorado 
and  t)i«  Gila  uniic. 

From  the  bluff  there  is  a  commanding  view  of 
the  town  across  the  river,  of  ruesas,  valleys,  and 
mountains. 

The  Castle  Dome  Mountains  are  on  the  north 
and  east,  and  north  of  this  range  and  west  are  the 
"  Pun^'c  Hills, "  and  between  those  and  the  Castle 
Borao  is  the  ohanuel  of  the  Colorado,  the  iui^ 
between  California  and  Arizona. 

Cargo  Jluchaco  is  south-west. 

Vumaf  248. 7  miles  from  l.os  Angeles,  and 
719.4  from  San  Francisco,  if,  approached  by  a 
five-span  Howe  tniss  bridge.  It  is  an  oasia  to  the 
traveler,  but  Colonel  Hinton  descr'^es  the  out- 
ward aspect  of  the  scene  thus  : 

"Sanfl-hills  to  right  of  them, 
Hand-hiUii  to  left  of  tb'.<m, 
SAad-liltl*  in  fnoitt  of  ihcia.** 

There  are  1500  people  and  one  priucip>d  street 
in  the  town.  This  is  the  iMiint  of  depaicuie  for 
nearly  all  towns  and  mining  districts  m  Arizona, 
and  many  in  Mexico  and  New  T^-Icvico. 

The  buMingt  are  only  a  story  liigh,  of  sod  or 
adobe,  with  walls  often  four  feet  thick,  and  flat 
r(K)fa  made  of  pohis  covered  with  willows,  cloth, 
or  raw  hide,  and  one  or  two  feet  of  dirt  on  top. 
Verandas  from  ten  to  twenty  feet  wide  surround 
the  houses  on  ;\\l  sidcei. 

The  dimats  is  excessively  hot,  the  mercury 
standing  for  days  at  130°  m  the  shade.  3ome- 
timrs  it  reaches  127"  in  the  shade,  and  160'  in  the 
sun.  The  natives  wear  less  clothing  than  the 
negroes  of  the  far  South,  and  the  people  need  no 
blankets  for  sleeping  in  the  open  air. 

Visitor»  will  notice  many  peculi*ritie«.  High 
fences,  suJTound  most  of  tlie  iiuts,  made  of 
rawhides  and  stakes  of  irregular  heights.  The 
people  sleep  on  the  roofs  of  their  hutA  eight 
motitliH  of  the  year.  The  only  churfh  is  the 
H«:imaii  Catholic.  Tha  Sentinel,  weekly,  tho  only 
paper. 


TMS  P;§€tmQ  WQW'MXBW. 


848 


The  Steamers  of  the  Colorado  Steam  Navigation  Co, 


Leave  Yuma  weekly  from  January  Ist  to 
November  Ist,  and  during  November  and  De- 
cemlwjr  every  alternate  Saturday. 

Steamers  leave  for  Camp  Mojave  every  fifth 
■week,  and  continue  to  El  Dorado  Oanou  Irom 
May  Ist  to  November  Ist,  if  the  water  permits. 

Yuma  to  Castle  Dome,  thirty -five  miles,  $5; 
EhrenV)erg,  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  miles, 
$15;  Av^brys,  two  hundred  and  twenty  miles, 
$28;  Camp  Mojave,  three  hundred  mUes,  $33; 
HJirdyville,  three  hundred  and  twelve  miles, 
$35;  El  Dorado  Oanoa,  three  hundred  and 
■ixty'five  miles,  $45. 


All  these  points  are  on  the  Colorado  Biver, 
which  ia  one  thousand  two  hundred  miles  long. 
For  six  liundred  miles  in  Arizona  it  flows 
through  deep  canons,  and  receives  more  than 
twenty  tribut'iries  and  falls  about  three  thou- 
sand feet.  The  descent  of  its  canons  wjis 
accomplished  with  peril  by  Colonel  Powell, 
of  the  United  otates  Armr,  in  1868  and 
1871. 

At  Yuma  the  train  will  take  th«  traveler  by 
the  Central  Pacific  Kailroad.  operw«'J  under 
temporary  lease. 


Southern  Pacific  Mailroatl  of  Arizona* 


eijcht 


During  the  vrintor  and  spring  of  1878  and 
1879  tlie  Southern  Pacific  railroad  of  Arizona 
was  pushed  eastward  from  YumatoCasa  Grande, 
182  miles,  giving  a  continuous  line  from  San 
Francisco  of  013  miles,  18  more  miles  than  the 
distance  from  San  Francisco  to  Ogden. 

The  general  course  is  east  to  Maricopa,  through 
the  Gila  Valley. 

Leaving  Yuma,  we  find  Castle  Dome  Peak 
»nd  range  on  the  left  hand  or  north  of  the  river. 
Its  outline  suggested  its  name.  On  the  uoutb 
side  of  the  Gila  river  is  the  Sonora  mesa — an 
extensive,  hard,  gravelly  plain,  and  in  about  an 
iiour's  travel  one  reaches  the  Pass  where  the 
bluifs  of  the  Gila  range,  cut  by  the  river,  de- 
t«rniined  the  location  of  the  road  near  the 
water.  The  work  on  the  road-bed  through  this 
range  vfw  the  most  difficult  encountered  be- 
tween  Yuma  and  the  present  terminus  at  Casik 
Grande. 

Across  the  river  may  be  teen  Boot  Mountain, 
and  east  of  this,  or  to  the  right  of  it,  is  the  coik 
tiaualior.   of  the  Gila  range.   Los  FlonM,  and 


further  to  the  right  and  east  of  ikV.b  <>.t<r,  M«|^ 
gin's  range. 

The  mountains  of  aU  thia>  regioii  are  groups 
of  volcanic  peaks,  lying  along  an  obscure  axis. 
There  sr  ms  to  be  an  o^teuing  directly  ahead  of 
the  traveler,  but  when  he  reaches  it  one  of 
these  rounded  or  irregular  mountains  is  again  in 
front  of  him  aad  be  mast  wiqd  about  on  long 
curves. 

The  openi'ig  made  by  the  valley  of  the  Gila 
river  is  of  the  utmost  importance  for  a  trans* 
continental  railroad  For  ii«'arly  2,000  miles  of 
mountain  after  mountain,  from  north  to  south, 
it  is  the  only  highway  prepared  by  nature  from 
east  to  west,  tx)  connect  the  basin  of  the  Missis* 
sippi  and  the  Pacific  ocean. 

Gila  Citif,  15.7  miles  from  Yuma,  has  aa 
elevation  of  149  feet.  One  must  wonder  how 
such  an  imposing  name  could  ever  have  been 
given  unless  in  mockery,  for  there  is  not  even  • 
aide  track.  But  once  it  had  a  thousand  niinen 
who  carried  sacks  of  gold  from  their  "dry  dig- 
gings "  to  wash  it  in  the  river. 


850 


FMS  P^€iFI€  r&^miSF. 


'it 

r. 

1 


The  scarcity  of  water  that  strewed  the  terri- 
tory with  countless  skeletons  of  aniniaisand  men, 
was  encountered  in  the  construction  of  tlie  rail- 
road, tlie  only  supply  being  frou»  tho  river.  To 
avoid  the  fate  of  others  it  was  transported  from 
the  rear,  like  the  iron  and  the  ti  -s.  Here  there 
is  now  a  steam-pump  that  suppli'  ^  a  large  tank 
for  railroad  puriwses. 

Leaving  Gila  City,  the  road  runs  more  south- 
•erly  for  a  few  miles,  and  then  turns  eastward. 

The  soil  of  the  valley  is  the  sediment  that  has 
been  washed  down  from  the  surto'  .nding  mount- 
ains and  is  exceedingly  fertile.  This  8ilt,'or  fine 
sand,  clay  and  earth  covers  volcanic  rock,  mostly 
basalt. 

The  mountains  are  usually  masses  of  granite  ; 
but  many  of  them  are  only  sand  and  iava. 

To  the  forma  of  vegetation  that  are  local  and 
remarkable — such  as  have  been  noticed  before 
reaching  Yuma,  we  must  add  new  forms  of 
•actus  and  especially  the  cactu.s  candelabra  (cereua 
giffanlew),  called  by  the  Mexicans  sahuaro  (soo- 
war-ro'./)  and  by  the  Indians  "  harsee."  It  has 
»  pale  green,  prickly  trunk,  20  or  30  and  some- 
times even  tiU  feet  high,  with  a  diameter  occa- 
Bionallyof  three  feet.  The  prickers  are  in  regular 
rows.  Often  it  is  without  a  single  branch,  stand- 
ing like  a  pillar  in  the  desert,  but  sometimes 
gigantic  branches  shoot  out  laterally  from  the 
trunk,  and  then  turn  upward,  elbow-like,  and 
ascend  paral'el  to  the  parent  stock.  It  is  the 
great  giant  of  the  plains  and  the  most  interest- 
ing ctictus  in  the  world.  The  trunk  is  a  mass  of 
ribs  one  or  two  inches  wide  and  about  the  same 
distance  apart,  extending  from  the  root  to  the 
top.  When  green  the  interstices  between  these 
ribs  and  the  hollow  cavity  of  the  trunk  is  filled 
with  a  dark  green  succulent  substance  somewhat 
like  a  melon.  The  bark  is  eiisily  ignited,  and  in 
a  strong  wind  the  fire  will  Hash  quickly  to  the 
Tery  top,  but  without  injuring  the  vitality  of  the 
plant.  By  these  fires  the  Apache  gave  their  sig- 
nals in  time  of  war.  The  growth  is  slow,  only  a 
few  inches  a  year.  When  the  tree  dies  the  whole 
of  the  succulent  intiirior  dries  up,  and  is  blown 
away  like  an  impalpable  jK)wder.  The  strong 
and  elastic  ribs  are  then  used  for  covering  adobe 
bouses,  and  many  other  jnirimses.  The  flower  is 
seen  in  May,  is  of  a  pale  yellow,  appears  at  the 
extremity  of  l)oth  branch  and  trunk.  Tlie  fruit 
appears  in  iTune  and  is  shaped  like  a  small  fnnir. 
It  is  gathered  by  the  Indians,  who  use  for  the 
purpose  a  fork  on  a  long  pole,  or  else  is  fouiul 
where  it  falls  win  n  tho  birds  <!etnch  it  in  seeknig 
to  open  the  outer  coveriitg  to  .secure  tho  dark  red 
pulp  within — a  pulp  sweet  and  delicate  and  riv- 
aling any  g(X)sel)erry.  It  is  highly  prized  by 
both  Indians  and  whiter.  Fmni  it  liio  Mexicans 
make  a  syrup  and  agreeable  presei  'es. 

Distributed  over  the  whole  territory  thera  is 
tlie  common  prickly  pear  cactus,  producing  dii- 


ferent  colored  flowers  and  a  fn/it  of  a  pleasant 
slightly  acid  taste.  As  many  its  1,000,  it  is  said, 
grow  on  a  single  bush. 

One  of  the  most  useful  and  important  plants 
is  the  celebrated  Indiaii  maguey — an  agave — 
with  a  bulbous  root,  like  a  lily  partly  above 
ground,  and  varying  in  size  from  that  of  a  man's 
head  to  a  camel's  hump.  It  is  full  of  saccha- 
rine matter,  and  delicious  when  tasted.  The 
juice  of  the  plant  is  boiled  down  into  a  good 
syrup,  and  by  distillation  a  favorite  licjuor  is 
made  from  the  plant — the  strong  drink  of  the 
MMxicans.  Tho  Hber  of  the  leaves  is  strong  and 
much  used  by  the  Indians  and  Mexicans  for 
ropes. . 

Much  gramma  grass  will  be  seen — valuable 
food  for  horses. 

About  40  miles  from  Yuma,  Poso  Butte  i» 
opiTosite  on  the  right  land  or  south,  and  on  the 
north  an  old  stage  stu  ion  called  Antelope.  The 
river  is  from  four  to  ten  miles  distant  most  of 
the  way  to  Gila  Benu. 

Mohairh  Summit,  50.1  miles  from  Yuma, 
has  an  elevation  of  540  feet.  This  has  been 
overcome  at  a  ciade  not  exceeding  one  foot  in  a 
100,  and  the  descent  eastward  is  on  the  same 
easy  scale.  The  Mohawk  range  runs  north  and 
south,  and  though  broken  may  be  trnced  on  both 
sides  of  the  river.     Before  reaching 

Te,rfts  Hill,  63.7  miles  from  Yuma,  where 
trains  meet  at  noon,  the  road  has  descended  to 
the  level  of  the  mesa,  nearly  two  miles  from  the 
gap.  Here  water  is  again  pimiped  from  the 
river,  the  last  supply  to  be  had  until  the  engine 
reaches  Gila  Bend. 

StiiHivix  is  85  miles  from  Yuma,  At  this 
point,  one  is  in  the  midst  of  the  great  lava  beds, 
and  all  around  is  ashes  and  desolation,  but  an 
intensely  interesting  field,  both  as  to  the  past 
and  the  future.  "In  the  rectangle  contained  by 
parallels  32  deg.,  45  min.,  and  34  deg.  '*•>  min., 
and  the  meridians  107  deg.,  30  min.,  an!  110  tieg., 
more  than  nine-tenths  of  the  surface  is  of  vol- 
canic material ;  an<l  from  this  main  body  there 
stretch  two  chief  arms — the  one  going  north-east. 
8i)  miles  to  Mt.  Taylor,  and  the  other  west- 
north-west  175  miles  in  Arizona  to  the  iy&n 
Francisco  group  of  volcanoes." 

Sentinel,  80,0  miles  from  Yuma,  is  a  so-called 
station,  with  nothing  that  is  not  common  to  nniny 
miles  of  the  roud. 

I'aintt'd  liorh,  103.5  miles  from  Ynma,  is 
no  more  important  as  a  station,  but  as  the  name 
implies  has  much  interest  for  the  arcliH'oiogist 
and  the  curious.  It  calls  to  mind  the  old  stage 
station  of  the  same  name  along  the  river,  where 
rude  hieroglyphics  made  upon  the  rocks  have 
liafHed  so  far  all  efforts  to  decipher  them  more 
effectually  tluui  tite  cuneiform  inscriptions  o£ 


TMM   ^m€iFiQ  WQUMmW. 


351 


'«EDBOS  FINTATXtS,    OB  PAIMXBD  BOCXfl^   APTgnwA. 


KtnNB  or  CASA  QBAlinDB,  ABIZOMA. 


862 


TBB  ^^cmc  Tovmisr. 


the  Assyrian  kingdom  or  the  picture-writing  of 
ancient  Egypt.  These  "Pedros  Pintados,"  or 
painted  rocks,  are  north  of  the  railroad  along 
the  old  stage  road,  and  consist  of  hu^  boulders 
piled  ^^  or  50  feet  high,  and  isolated  in  the  great 
pla>a.  Hlw  thev  came  there  is  as  unknown  as 
tht>  meaning  of  their  grotesque  carvings  or  paint- 
ings. It  ill  probable  that  they  were  gathered 
without  anv  direct  agency  of  man.  They  are 
coverec!  witii  rude  representations  of  men,  beasts, 
birds,  reptiles  and  things  imaginary  and  real, 
and  some  of  tK<i  representations  express  events 
in  human  lifo.  U  is  supposed  that  they  record 
the  battles  betwt>(>o  the  luinas,  Cocopahs,  Mar- 
icopas  and  Piiiahs,  or  tbt.t  councils  were  here 
held  and  recorded.  The  p-.ajority  of  those  who 
have  viewed  them  cousiuer  them  as  of  recfiit 
origin,  dating  no  farth<!r  back  than  the  begin- 
ning of  the  seventeenth  century,  and  there  are 
those  who  Hscribe  them  to  the  Aztec  and  even 
Toltec  civilizations. 

The  range  of  mountains  noticed  on  the  north 
aide  of  the  railroad  is  the  Sierra  Colorado. 

Gila  Beiuif  119.3  miles  from  Yuma,  is  where 
water  is  again  pumped  from  the  river  to  supply 
the  engines  on  the  road,  and  named  from  the 
bend  of  the  river  to  the  north.  The  distance  by 
the  river  to  Maricopa  is  150  miles,  and  by  the 
railroad  only  45  !  The  range  of  hills  crossed  by 
the  road,  and  which  has  pushed  the  river  off  to 
the  north,  making  the  Gila  Bend,  is  crossed  at 
an  elevation  of  1,52U  feet,  an<i  after  crossing  it 
the  Mariposa  desert  extends  off  to  the  north, 
and  on  the  south  is  bordered  by  high  broken 
mountains. 

EHtrella,  138.1  miles  from  Yuma,  is  of  no 
importance  unless  it  be  to  mark  the  Sierra  Ea- 
trella  range,  on  the  north  or  left  hand  side. 

MaricofHt,  156.3  miles  fram  Yuma,  is  the 
first  point  of  importance  reached  after  leaving 
the  Colorado  river.  It  is  situated  on  a  ruroe  in 
the  road  five  mileM  long,  with  a  radius  of  six  and 
a  half  miles  I  The  elevation  is  1,182  feet.  Six 
miles  north  is  the  old  stage  station  of  Maricopa 
Wells,  two  miles  further  north  the  (jila  Kivcr. 
This  is  destined  to  become  of  great  importance 
in  Arizona.  The  Santa  Cruz  Valley,  running 
north  and  south,  and  lying  eant  of  this  station, 
has  in  it  good  laud  covered  with  a  thick  growth 
of  sage  brush,  and  added  to  the  arable  land 
along  the  Gila  will  form  an  extensive  agricultu- 
ral country  centering  around  Maricopa.  Water 
is  abundant  and  is  supplied  for  the  railroad  and 
temporarily  for  the  town,  from  a  well  00  feet 
deep,  in  digging  this  well  at  40  feet  there  was 
onoountered  a  strata  of  lava  two  feet  thick,  then 
a  few  teet  of  sand,  and  then  again  a  strata  of 
lava,  and  benenth  this  a  copious  supply  of  water. 
About  five  miles  from  Mariropa  snd  a  quarter 
of  a  mil*  above  the  plain  ther>  is  a  large  spring 


that  will  no  doubt  be  utilized  to  supply  water  to 
the  new  town. 

Much  of  the  importance  of  the  place  will  be 
derived  from  its  being  the  base  of  supply  for  the 
Salt  River  Valley — a  rich  agricultural  Valley 
from  five  to  ten  miles  wide,  and  lying  along  the 
river,  more  than  100  miles  long.  The  river  flows 
through  an  immense  salt  bed,  but  the  water  is 
nevertheless  used  successfully  for  irrigation.  In 
this  valley  Phoenix  is  the  center  of  business  and 
has  a  population  of  about  2,000.  Around  it  are 
10,000  acres  of  land  under  cultivation,  mostly  in 
farms  of  160  acres.  It  is  30  milea  from  Mari- 
copa— fare,  $5.00. 

North-west  of  Phoenix  and  00  miles  from  Mari- 
copa is  Wickenburg,  just  south  of  the  line  divid- 
ing Maricopa  and  Yavapai  counties.  It  is  a 
town  of  about  300  inhabitants.  The  capital  of 
the  territory  is  at  Prescott,  130  miles  north  of 
Maricopa  (fare  #25.00,  time  24  hours)  and  is  the 
centre  of  trade  for  the  most  populous  region  >>( 
the  territory,  and  has  about  5,000  inhabitants. 
It  has  tixcellent  schools  and  churches,  a  promis- 
ing library  association  and  a  larger  volume  of 
business  than  any  other  town  in  the  territory, 
but  must  look  to  her  laurA^*^  since  the  extension 
of  the  railroad  promises  many  revolutions.  The 
town  was  named  in  honor  of  the  historian  who 
has  best  studied  and  written  the  early  history  of 
the  country.  Leaving  Maricopa,  the  general 
course  of  the  road  is  ,<-outheast  toward  Tucson 
(Too-song),  and  the  present  tenniniis  is  at 

Casa  tlranUe,  182  miles  from  Yuma,  and 
913  miles  from  San  Francisco.  It  is  22  miles 
from  Florence  and  about  1  DO  from  Tucson.  At 
the  end  of  the  long  curve,  the  road  strikes  a 
tangent  tow(>;d  Tucson  about  50  miles  long,  the 
longest  part  of  the  road  without  curve  between 
Tuma  and  this  point. 

Casa  Grande  is  named  from  the  extensive  ruins 
of  an  ancient  civilization.  Irrigating  ditches, 
fragments  of  broken  pottery,  crumbling  walls, 
even  yet  two  and  three  stories  in  height,  and  all 
only  a  fragment  of  what  was  seen  by  the  first 
Spanish  explorers,  attest  the  greatness  of  what 
is  now  so  mysterious.  Here  is  the  point  of  de- 
parture for  h  lorence  on  the  north-ea«t  and  Tucson 
'n  the  direction  in  which  the  road  is  to  be  ex- 
tended. 

Florence  is  the  county  seat  of  Final  oounty, 
and  like  all  the  Arizona  towns  ia  in  the  center 
of  ini[)ortant  mines.  It  is  surrounded,  too,  by 
'rich  agricultural  land,  and  has  water  running 
through  its  street:  like  Salt  Lake  City.  The 
)K>pulation  is  pearly  2,000.  All  the  buildings 
are  of  adobe,  owing  to  the  high  price  of  tim- 
ber. 

ruins  of  Cafl%  Oruida,  Paint  d  R  oka. 
Oliffe  House*.  Car*  Dwallings,  etc  — Tlie 
QilaYalley  for  150  miles,  indnding  the  region  of 
Ossa  Qrande,  and  on  both  sides  of  the  nver,  is 


covered 
irrigatii 
of  all  80 
those  oi 
Mancos 
others  k 
unknow 
southeat 
Utah,   a 
Mexico  fl 
the  Grej 
served,  1 
It  is  a  fe 
the  same 
of  gray  < 
oo  long, 
the  base. 
None  0 
esting  thi 
"Cave  D 
the  immt 
ground   i 
miles,    w 
im^Iemen 
gating  ca 
had  each 
apartment 
4,000  Indi 
sometimes 
tered  oyi 
Mancos  R 
ber  of   h( 
stone — n  f 
I>Iements 
tached  to 
large    rou 
material, 
ably  the 
shipped 
god  of  tli^ 
thoro  were! 
StevensonJ 
nndor  M;il 
of  clifis  « 
in  which 
lived  at  tl 
The  oriil 
h&vti  atti. 
has  l)oen 
theories  of 
Prescott, 
Bancroft, 
tho  Arizonl 
"Hand-_ 
thor  ooncli 
marked  ii 
tliat  the  L 
rado  are  o| 
one  de 
stilt  thfl  rn] 
Lewis  a. 


WME   ^^€IFIG  FQU'mSF. 


353 


covered  with  tho  ruins  of  cities, 
irrigating;  canals,  and  broken  pottery 
of  lUl  sorts.  Tho  ruins  are  similar  to 
those  of  Zuni,  Taos,  Jamez,  Pecos, 
Mancos  and  McElmo  Canons  and 
others  known,  and  jjorhaps  many  yet 
unknown,  in  Arizona,  New  Mexico, 
southeast  Colorado  and  southern 
Utah,  and  to  those  discovered  in 
Mexico  and  Yucatan.  "CasaGrando," 
the  Great  House,  is  the  best  pre- 
served, but  by  no  means  the  largest. 
It  is  a  few  miles  from  the  station  of 
the  same  name,  in  Arizona,  has  walls 
of  gray  concrete  nearly  40  feet  high, 
63  long,  45  wide  and  5  feet  thick  at 
the  base. 

None  of  the  ruins  are  more  inter- 
esting than  the  "  Cliflf  Houses  "  and 
"Cave  Dwellings  "  in  Coloratlo.  In 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  these  the 
ground  is  covered,  sometimes  for 
miles,  with  broken  pottery,  stone 
implements,  and  traces  of  vast  irri- 

Sting  canals.  Some  of  the  edifices 
d  each  from  one  to  six  hundred 
apartments  and  held  from  500  to 
4,000  Indians.  They  wero  of  several, 
sometimes  five,  stories,  and  all  en- 
tered oy  means  of  laildors.  On  the 
Mancos  River  there  are  a  large  num- 
ber of  houses  constructed  of  cut 
stone — n  Foft  (tufa)  rock  cut  by  im- 
{dements  made  oi  harder  stone,  at- 
tached to  handles  like  an  adze — and 
large  round  towers  of  the  same 
material.  These  towers  were  prob- 
ably the  places  in  which  thev  wor- 
shipped Mont»?:Tima,  the  Culture 
god  of  the  Aztecs.  The  altars,  if 
there  were  any,  have  crumbled.  Mr. 
Stevenson,  a  government  explorer 
under  ]S[;ijor  Powell,  foimd  GO  miles 
of  clilTs  'human  Bwallo*-s'  nosts," 
in  which  100,000  people  may  have 
lived  at  tho  same  time. 

The  origin  and  uses  of  all  these  buildings 
havfa  attracted  much  attention,  and  tho  subject 
has  l)een  but  partially  examined  as  yet.  The 
theories  of  Humboldt,  Gregg,  Bell,  Domenich, 
Prescott,  Abbe  de  Brasbourg,  Baldwin  and 
Bancroft,  and  detailed  descriptions  of  most  of 
tho  Arizona  ruins,  may  bo  found  in  Hintou's 
' '  Hand-Book  of  Arizv-ia. "  This  last-named  au- 
thor concludes  that  the  Aztec  form  of  life  is 
marked  in  tho  pueblos  of  New  Mexico,  and 
tiiat  the  ruins  of  Arizona  and  southwest  Colo- 
rado are  older,  and  of  Tolteo  origin.  But  any 
one  desiring  the  fullest  information  must  con- 
volt  tiut  mports  of  Prof.  W.  H.  Jackson,  Hon. 
liBwis  BL  Morgan,  of  Rochester,  N.  Y.,  and  Mr. 


CLIFF 


D  tTELiimaB,  MANCoa  canon,  southwestebm 

OOIiOBADO. 

James  Stevenson,  of  Washington,  D.  C,  and 
othei's,  published  under  direction  of  Major 
Powell  and  Col.  Hayden.  The  elaborate  report 
of  Mr.  Morgan,  "Contributions  to  American 
Ethnolo^,"Vol.  IV.,  1881, says:  "The  Indian 
edifices  in  New  Mexico  and  Central  America, 
of  the  period  of  tb  .  Couquest,  may  well  excite 
surprise,  and  even  admiration,  from  their  pala- 
tial extent,  from  tho  material  used  in  their  con< 
struotiou,  and,  from  the  character  of  tiieir 
ornamentation,  they  are  highly  creditable  to 
their  skill  in  architecture.  A  common  Principle 
runs  through  all  this  architecture,  m»m  the 
long-house  of  the  Iroquois,  to  the  pudblo 
houses  of  New  Mexico,  and  to  the  so-called 


S64 


rmm  pss^cmwmc  roi^MMi^r. 


CLIFF   HOUSE,  MANC08  CASON,  BOUlUEASTEr.S  CCLCrADO. 


'  place  of  Palenqve  and  the  Hontse  of  the  Nnnn, 
at  UxmaL  It  is  the  principle  of  communism  in 
livingj" 

There  are  about  20  pueblos  in  New  Mexico 
inhabited  by  about  7,000  TillafTe  Indians,  and 
there  are  seven  pueblos  of  the  Moquis  near  the 
Little  Colorado  and  about  3,000  Indians. 

The  Painted  T»ookB,  Pietftvs  Pititados  (page 
961),  aze  near  Gila  Bend.    The  mass  is  scat- 


tered over  nearly  an  acre  of  ground.  One 
shaft  rises  about  fifty  feet.  On  the  surface  are 
rude  carvings  of  men,  birds,  reptiles  and 
lueroglyphics  as  yet  undeciphered.  They, 
jjerhaps,  record  battles  between  the  diflPerent 
'tribes,  and  other  events. 

Similar  hieroglyphics  abound  in  Moiicos  and 
McElmo  canons  and  otlier  parts  of  Arizona, 
Colorado  and  New  Mexico. 


rmm  ^steiFia  ro^Misr. 


866 


i 


I 


s 


I 

li;. 


8S6 


FMM  ^mciFw  r&tmiST. 


Picacho — 931.9  milea  from  San  Francisco,  is 
only  a  side  track,  icar  the  peak  of  the  same 
name.  The  word  is  a  common  one  for  on  iso- 
lated peak,  and  this  one,  so  prominent  for  many 
miles  Detween  Tucson  and  Yuma,  has  almost 
monopolized  the  name.  It  is  seen  for  many 
miles,  and  ia  a  noted  landmark  between  Tuo- 
8on  and  Yuma. 

Bed  Bock,  045.8,  and  RiHito,  061.8  miles 
from  San  Francisco  are  also  unimportant.  But 
there  comes  into  view  the  oldest  city  in  America — 

Tucson,  078.4  miles  from  San  Francisco. 
This  is  now  usually  pronounced  Toosdn.  It  was 
supposed  to  be  a  Spanish  word,  but  it  is  un- 
douDtedly  an  Indian  word  and  the  correct  pro- 
nunciation is  Tooke-sdn,  and  simifies  good  land. 
It  is  the  county  seat  of  Pima  County,  and  situ- 
ated on  the  Santa  Crus  River,  about  75  miles 
from  the  Gila  River,  the  same  distance  from  So- 
nora  and  370  miles  from  Guaymas. 

It  owes  its  early  settlement  and  much  of  its 
present  importance  to  the  Santa  Cruz  River — a 
river  that  is  seen  and  then  not  seen — flowing 
alternately  above  and  beneatli  the  surface  of  the 
ground,  but  nearly  always  beneath.  A  few  miled 
south  of  Tucson  the  river  appears  above  the  sur- 
face of  the  ground,  flows  past  the  mesa  on  which 
the  town  is  ouilt,  and  affords  irrigation  for  sev- 
eral thousand  acres  of  land. 

The  exact  date  of  settlement  is  not  known.  A 
juile  or  more  south-west  of  the  town  are  the  ruins 
of  the  old  mission  church  built  by  the  Jesuits. 
Hie  first  homes  made  by  civilized  people  were  on 
the  bottom  lands  from  the  San  Xavier  mission 
toward  Tucson,  and  in  time  a  presidio  (military 
samp)  was  established  on  the  present  site  to  pro- 
tect the  settlers,  and  around  this  the  town  grew. 
It  was  an  important  station  in  the  Butterfield 
overland  stage-time,  and  was  occupied  during 
the  rebellion  by  a  company  of  Texas  cavalry, 
who  were  in  turn  driven  out  by  California  volun- 
teers. It  became  an  extensive  military  depot 
and  has  carried  on  a  large  trade  witli  Sonora  and 
Sinaloa. 

The  town  lies  between  the  railroad  and  the 
river,  and  to  one  stepping  out  of  the  cars  appears 
to  be  nothing  consiuering  its  age  or  estimated 
importance.  But  the  houses  are  of  adobe  brick, 
bad  with  scarce  an  exception,  only  one  story 
high.  They  are  flush  with  the  narrow  streets, 
and  the  streets  destitute  of  trees  or  shrubbery. 
As  in  all  Mexican  towns,  the  plaza  is  prominent, 
and  on  it  is  the  Catholic  church.  Business  for- 
merly centered  around  the  plaza,  but  with  the 
ener^  of  the  Americans  the  modern  ways  of 
Mexican  civilization  are  breaking  up  and  the 
principal  business  has  left  the  pUusa  and  passed 
to  oUier  streets. 

At  the  western  edge  of  the  town  there  is  a  de- 
iigbtful  park.    Cottonwood  trees  of  only  a  few 


years'  growth  have  attained  great  height  under 
the  influence  of  irrigation,  and  fumisTi  a  shade 
and  a  cool  retreat  that  every  one  must  appreciate 
because  the  town  is  almost  destitute  in  other  re- 
spects of  any  shade.  The  citizens  throng  this 
park  every  evening,  and  the  stranger  is  driven  to 
it  to  enjoy  the  pleasant  coolness. 

The  population  of  the  town,  now  about  8,000, 
is  steadily  increasing.  There  are  two  banking- 
houses,  l^fTord,  Hudson  &  Co.,  and  the  Pima 
County  Bank.  In  seven  months  one  of  these 
bought  and  sold  nearly  f2,8(H),000  in  exchange. 

Some  of  the  mercantile  firms  do  a  wholesale 
and  retail  business  amounting  to  millionn  of  dol- 
lars per  annum,  and  carry  stocks  of  merchandise 
that  one  is  surprised  to  see  outside  of  Sun  Fran- 
cisco. Bnt  Tucson  is  the  commercial  center  of 
a  large  portion  of  the  state  and  parts  of  Mexico 
and  New  Mexico.  From  it  are  supplied  the  min- 
ing camps  of  Arivaca  district,  70  miles  east  of 
south;  Oro  Blanco  district,  adjoining  Arivaca 
on  the  east,  and  76  miles  distant;  Tyndall  dis- 
trict, 60  miles  south;  Aztec  district,  adjoining 
I'yudall ;  some  mines  in  Sonora  about  12  miles 
south  of  Oro  Blanco  owned  by  Senator  Jones  and 
others;  and  the  Pima  district  about  25  miles 
south-west  of  Tucson. 

It  is  also  the  center  of  the  agriculture  and 
stock-raising  of  the  fertile  lands  alo'  ^  the  river. 
Nine  miles  from  Tucson  is  one  of  tl  most  intt^r- 
esting  structures  on  the  coast — the  <  d  mission  of 
iSan  Xavier  Del  Bac. 

One  road  leads  past  "  Silver  Lake  "  formed  by 
damming  up  the  watersof  the  river — then  through 
proves  of  mesquit  reminding  one  of  the  oak  groves 
in  the  valley  of  California,  then  on  tiie  mesa  land 
where  the  hard,  gravelly,  but  natural,  road-bed  is 
good  enough  to  be  mistaken  for  a  race-course  or 
national  turnpike.  The  mission  was  founded 
in  1654,  and  is  now  on  the  reservation  of  the 
Papago  Indians.  These  are  Pima  Indians  who 
are  supposed  to  have  accepted  the  Christian  re- 
ligion. 

The  present  edifice  was  begun  in  1768  on  the 
ruins  oi  a  predecessor  of  the  same  name,  and 
completed  in  1708— excepting  one  of  the  towers, 
yet  unfinished.  The  style  of  architecture  is 
Moorish  and  Byzantine.  The  lines  are  wonder- 
fully perfect.  It  is  in  the  form  of  a  cross  70  x 
115  feet,  and  from  its  walls  there  rises  a  well- 
formed  dome  and  two  minarets.  A  balustrade 
surmounts  all  the  walls  and  has  48  griffons,  one 
at  every  turn.  The  front  is  covered  with  scroll- 
work, intricate,  interesting  and  partly  decayed. 
Over  the  front  is  a  life-sized  bust  of  S*aint  Fran- 
cis Xavier.  The  interior  is  literally  covered  with 
frescoes,  the  altar  adomc^d  with  gilded  scroll- 
work, and  statues  are  as  numerous  as  the  paint- 
ings. The  tiling  on  the  floor  and  roof  is  nearly 
alias  perfect  to^ay  as  when  laid,  but  its  manu- 
facture is  one  of  the  loet  arts.    It  is  marvelous 


SI 


il 


^ 


868 


TME  PACIFIC  roitsisr. 


that  so  long  ago  and  in  Huch  a  place,  such  arclii- 
tecture,  ornaments,  painting  and  sculptiire  were 
■o  well  constructed  with  even  patience  and  perse- 
verance. No  one  should  fail  to  procure  tickets  of 
admission  from  the  priest  in  Tucson  and  visit 
this  interesting  relic. 

Tucson  has  four  newspapers.  The  Arizona 
Citizen  and  Arizona  Star  have  daily  and  weekly 
editions.  The  Pima  County  Record  is  a  weekly, 
and  the  Mexican  population  have  another  weekly 
in  their  own  language — El  Fronteriza. 

There  are  two  breweries,  two  ice  machines, 
and  two  hotels,  a  public  school,  parochial  (Cath- 
olic) school,  a  convent,  a  private  school  and  a 
Catholic  and  a  Presbyterian  church. 

Seven  miles  from  Tucson,  on  the  Rillito  creek, 
and  at  the  base  of  the  Santa  Catarina  mountains, 
in  Fort  Lowell,  with  a  capacity  of  one  battalion. 
The  buildings  are  the  most  attractive  in  the  re- 
ion,  and  it  is  probable  thac  the  Fort  will  soon 
the  head-quarters  for  Arizona. 

Papago,  993  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is 
only  a  side  track. 

Pantano,  1,006.5  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
at  the  Cienega  creek.  It  is  a  canvas  town  of  a 
dozen  tents  and  one  or  two  small  adobe  houses. 
While  it  was  the  terminus  of  the  road  and  .stages 
left  daily  for  New  Mexico  and  Tombstone,  it  had 
a  lively  air ;  but  one  familiar  to  it.s  buny  scenes 
will  soon  be  unable  to  recognize  it.  Its  perma- 
nence and  importance  will  arise  from  its  being 
the  base  of  supply  for  Harshaw  and  Washington 
mining  camps. 

Stages  leave  Pantano  daily  for  Harshaw  60 
miles,  96 ;  Patagonia  42  miles,  96 ;  and  Wash- 
ington 51  miles,  $7.50. 

3fe8cal,  1,016.8  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
keeps  up  the  semblance  of  regular  stations,  at 
proper  distances  from  each  other,  but  why  there 
should  be  a  station,  so  far  as  local  i-easons  de- 
mand it,  no  one  can  guess.  As  the  name  implies, 
however,  there  is  a  new  form  of  vegetation  that 
is  important.  The  agdve  (or  mescal)  plant.  Its 
growth  is  so  slow  that  it  has  been  called  the  cen- 
tury plant.  It  is  the  American  aloe.  It  has 
lon^,  regular  leaves  of  grayish-green  color,  termi- 
nating in  a  sharp,  black  needle  almost  as  tough 
as  whalebone.  The  flower-stem,  when  the  plant 
is  ready  to  bloom,  grows  as  rapidly  as  the  plant 
was  slow,  sometimes  a  foot  or  more  a  day,  and 
one  can  almost  see  it  push  upward.  From  the 
main  stem  short  branches  issue,  and  these  bear 
a  small  greenish-yellow  flower.  From  this  plant 
in  obtained  the  liquor,  "  Mescal,"  commonly  used 
L'  the  Mexicans,  and  sold  at  about  93  a  gallon, 
ifhe  long  leaves  are  cut  off,  leaving  a  stump  like 
a  California  beet  in  size,  and  these  stumps  are 
collected  and  roasted  in  a  hole  in  the  ground  or 
rude  oven.  Then  raw  hides  strung  by  the  cor- 
ners   are   made    a  receptacle    for    the    roasted 


stumps,  and  in  a  few  days  these  ferment  and 
form  a  dark,  thick,  pulpy  mass  which  is  dis- 
tilled once  or  twice  for  the  Mescal  of  commerce. 
After  the  stumps  have  been  roasted  they  are 
also  eaten  as  foo<l  and  are  said  to  l>e  quite  pala- 
table. The  ordinary  brown  sugar  (panoche)  of 
the  Mexicans  is  also  obtained  from  this  plant. 
When  the  flower  stalk  is  about  ready  to  appear 
thev  cut  away  the  bud  and  scoop  out  the  center, 
and  into  this  is  poured  the  abundant  sap  that 
would  have  shot  forth  the  panicle  of  flowers. 
This  is  evaporated  into  syrup  or  sugar. 

JteiMon,  a  telegraph  station,  is  1024.4  miles 
from  San  Francisco  and  tho  junction  of  the 
Atchison,  Topeka  and  Santa  Fe  ittilroad  to  Ouy- 
amas,  Mexico,  now  in  process  of  construction. 
The  Atchison,  Topeka  and  Santa  Fo  roatl  uses 
the  track  of  the  Southern  Pacific  from  Deming 
to  Benson,  and  thus  forms  a  coTitinuous  line 
from  Kansas  City  to  OuyamaH.  he  chief  im- 
portance of  Benson  is  in  this  junction  and  its 
proximity  to  Tombstone,  BisbeeawX  smaller  min- 
mg  districts  to  the  south.  Of  all  these  Tomb' 
stone  is  the  most  important — the  most  extensive 
in  the  Territory,  and  a  rival  of  the  Comstock. 
it  is  25  miles  south  of  Benson,  situated  on  roll- 
ing hills,  and  commands  an  extended  and 
beautiful  view  of  the  valley  of  tho  San  Pedro 
Biver  and  the  Dragoon  mountains  on  the  north, 
and  the  Huachucha  (Wali-choo-cha)  mountains 
on  the  pouth.  It  is  the  most  beautifully  situ- 
ated  n<lninK  town  on  the  Pacific  coast,  and  is 
ri»dlt)d,  for  situation,  only  by  Leadville  and 
Silverton. 

Silver  was  first  discovered  at  tho  old  Bronco 
mine,  six  miles  southeast  of  the  town;  a  mine 
that  has  been  the  subject  of  much  dispuU*,  and 
the  scene  of  great  violence,  and  at  which  seven- 
teen men  died  with  their  boots  on.  Now,  the 
whole  country  is  located  for  miles  around,  and 
some  of  the  mines  are  of  surpassing  value,  such 
as  the  Contention,  Head  Centre,  Snlphuret, 
Toughnut,  IngersoU,  Stonewall,  Lucky  Cus6; 
and  others,  like  the  Anchor  end  Prompter, 
present  immense  promises.  The  ore  is  free 
milling.  The  cost  of  mining  lias  been  the  most 
serious  drawl)ack,  owing  to  the  scarcity  of 
water.  This  requisite,  even  for  a  1)everage  in  a 
hot  mining  town,  was  long  supiilied  from  wells 
on  the  stage-road  between  Tombstone  and 
Benson,  two  or  three  miles  from  town.  It  was 
sold  from  the  carts  in  the  streets  at  two  cents  a 
gallon.  This  scarcity  required  idl  milling  to 
be  done  on  the  San  Pedro  Eiver.  Tlie  mills 
were  located  at  Contention  City  and  Charles- 
ton, each  nine  miles  from  Tombstone. 

Contention  City  is  passed  on  tlie  stage  ronte 
from  Benson  to  Tombstone.  It  has  a  popula- 
tion of  about  six  hundred,  and  Charleston 
about  a  thousand.  The  years  1881  and  1882 
witness  great  changes  in  the  water  supply  of 


FMM   l^iiCIFiQ  WQ^MiSF. 


3:)9 


STONE    UOmiUENT,    8ANTA    KITA    MUUNTAIKS, 
SOirrBEASTERN  COLORADO. 

t 

Tombstone.  In  tho  Sulplmret  and  other 
minces  an  almmlaut  flow  was  encountered  and 
ntilizod;  a  company  brought  water  in  pipes 
from  tho  wells  near  town,  and  another  com- 
pany from  Boston  laid  twenty-seven  miles  of 
wronght-iron  pipe,  bringing  water  from  the 
Hnaohucha  mountains,  and  the  supply  from 
these  sources  is  suflScient  for  the  people,  and 
all  the  mills  needed. 

Tombstone  has  about  7,000  people,  is  regu- 
larly laid  out,  has  two  daily  and  weekly  news- 
papers, hotels,  and  all  the  usual  accompani- 
ments of  a  new  and  first-class  mining  town. 
The  dwellings  are  mostly  small  and  uncom- 
fortable, some  but  little  better  than  tents  or 
huts,  but  the  enjoyment  of  the  comforts  and 
luxuries  of  life  is  rapidly  increasing.  Owing 
to  the  elevation,  nearly  6,000  feet,  the  climate 
is  delightful  much  of  the  time.  Along  the  San 
Pedro  River  are  ^ood  ranches  raising  cattle  and 
supplying  provisions  to  tho  surrounding  towns. 
They  are  mostly  owned  by  Mormons.  Taran- 
tulas, rattlesnakes,  scorpions,  centipedes, 
homed  toads  and  lizards  abound  in  all  this 
section. 

Benson  has  an  elevation  of  3,578  feet,  Tucson 
2,390  feet,  and  Mescal,  the  summit  west  of  the 
Baa.  Pedro,  is  4,034  feet.  After  leaving  Benson 
the  road  crosses  the  San  Pedro  River,  a  narrow, 


insigniflcant  stream  wlien  not  swollen  by 
rnins,  and  winds  nniong  the  hills  toward 
llie  summit  on  i\w  Dragoon  mountains, 
tit  a  prudo  of  74  feet  to  tlin  mile,  tho 
lieaviest  grade  on  tho  Southern  Pacifiu 
east  of  Yuma. 

After  crossing  tho  San  Pedro,  tlie  blos- 
soming willow  (Lhihfstn  Z»»«/aji.t],  with 
a  flower  resembling  that  of  tho  honey- 
suckle in  size  and  appearance,  and  a  low 
scrub  oak  will  bo  noticed.  From  tho  oak, 
the  canon  in  which  the  road  ascends  the 
mountain  is  called  Quercus.  Tlie  sup- 
position that  it  was  named  from  the 
peculiar  nature  of  the  profanity  in  this 
region  is  a  mistake. 

Ovhmi  (O-cho-a),  1034-1  miles,  has  an 
elevation  of  4,102  feet,  and  was  named 
after  a  Spanish  family  prominent  in 
Tucson,  El  Pnso  and  Prescott.  Just 
l)efore  ronchiiig  Ochoa  tho  road  touclies 
the  soutliei-u  limit  west  of  Doming  in 
latitude  31  deg.  C5  min.  From  this  point 
the  penoruh'ourHe  is  N,  of  E.  to  Dragoon 
Pass  in  the  Dragoon  Mountains. 

Dragoon  Summit,  i, 043.5  miles,  is 
4,()14  feet  above  the  sea,  and  tho  liighest 
point  on  the  road  in  Arizona.    It  is  fifty- 
aeven   feet  higher  than  tho  continental 
divide  between  Lepar  and  Wilna.    Leav- 
ing Kan  Pe<lro    Valley    we    now   enter 
Sulphur  Spring  Valley,  and  tho  general 
course  is  east  of  north  to  R.  R.  Pass.      The 
valley  is  from  ten  to  twenty  miles  wide  and 
about  one  hundred  long,  with  rich  soil  desti- 
tute of  water,  save  a  meagre  supply  from  small 
springs.     Here  prairie  dogs  are  to  be  seen  as 
at  Sidney,  pages  53  and  54. 

VftrhiHe,  or  Cochisf,  1,053.5  miles,  has  an 
elevation  of  4,222  feet.  It  is  called  after  the 
noted  chief  of  the  Chiricahuans,  a  tribe  of  hos- 
tile Apaches.  In  1872,  aft«!r  Cochise  had  been 
severely  punished  by  Geneml  Crook,  ho  made 
peace  witli  General  Iloward,  and  died  in  1873. 
In  the  vsdley  there  is  a  large  alkali  flat,  covered 
at  times  with  the  rain-fall  so  that  it  appears 
like  a  vast  lake.  This  is  tho  Player  de  los  Pitnas^ 
and  covera  sixty  square  miles.  It  is  a  lagnna, 
dry  lake,  salt  lake,  etc.,  according  to  the  sea- 
son. The  southeastern  portion  of  Arizona  is  ex- 
ceedingly picturesque,  when  the  summer  rains 
have  covered  the  hills  with  grass.  At  times 
the  water  descends  like  torrents,  and  honey- 
combs the  barren  hills  of  gravel  and  sandstone, 
or  leaves  here  and  there  strange  forms  of  archi- 
tectund  beauty.  One  can  easily  see  in  the  dis- 
tant mountains  a  lieautiful  castle,  with  towers 
and  domes,  ai-ches  and  minarets,  and  over  all  ia 
the  charm  of  rich  and  lieautiful  tints  peculiar 
to  tho  Ar  zona  atmosphere. 

nUleox,  a  telegraph  station,  1,064.3  milea^ 


m 


860 


TMM  FsiviFic  rotmisr. 


is  nomod  aftor  Brevnt  Mojor-Oenoral  Willoox, 
U.  8.  A.,  who  has  dono  hu  much  for  the  ppatio 
and  dovelopment  of  the  Territory.  Here  ih  an 
eating-house  where  dinners  are  Berved  to  1)oth 
east  and  west  bound  trainn;  and,  oonnidoring 
the  d(>Hert  place,  thejr  are  good  meals,  too.  It 
is  the  distributing  Point  for  Camp  Grant,  Camp 
Mofford  and  Camp  Thomas  on  the  north,  and  is 
distant  from  Qlobe  City  (on  the  northwest) 
eighty-flve  miles.  The  Ai^hite  Mountain  Indian 
Besorvation  |8an  Carlos  Agency)  is  on  the 
north  about  tlie  same  distance  from  this  point 
or  from  Casa  Grande. 

Railroad  Pann,  1,072.6  miles,  is  in  the 
Dos  Cabesas  range  of  the  Chiricahua  Moun- 
tains, on  the  east  side  of  the  Huliihiir  Springs 
Vfdley  and  the  west  side  of  Ban  Simon  YuUey. 
"Dos  CalHJsas"  means  "two  heads."  They 
are  easily  recognized — bald,  monstrous  puakH, 
visible  in  all  the  southeastt^rn  part  of  the  Ter- 
ritory, and  noted  landmarks  for  every  traveler. 
A  short  distance  to  tlie  south  is  the  well-known 
Apache  Pass.  The  elevation  of  the  Bailroud 
Pass  is  4,394  feet,  about  one  hundred  feet  lower 
than  the  continental  divide.  The  western  slope 
of  the  range  is  overcome  with  a  maximum 
grade  of  sixty-three  feet,  but  on  the  eastern 
slope  the  maximum  grade  is  again  seventy-four 
feet.  The  general  course  from  Dragoon  Pass 
was  east  of  north,  and  now  it  changes,  from 
this  to  Stein's  Pass,  to  south  of  east. 

Bowie.  1,0S8  miles,  is  named  for  the  United 
States  military  camp  of  the  same  name,  about 
twelve  miles  south  of  the  station.  It  was 
established  in  1863,  and  its  position  in  the 
Apache  Pass  made  it  one  of  the  most  important 
posts  in  tlie  Territory,  for  it  was  long  sur- 
rounded by  fierce  and  hostile  warriors. 

San  SliiUHtf  1,103.7  miles,  a  day  telegraph 
station,  is  in  a  valley  of  the  same  name,  extend- 
ing from  Railroad  Pass  on  the  west  to  Stein's 
Pass  on  the  east.  It  is  iu  Arizona,  but  Stein's 
Pass  is  in  New  Mexico.  Before  crossing  the 
boundary  line  it  may  be  well  to  take  a  general 
survey. 

AriBona  extends  from  31  deg.  20  min.  north 
latitude  to  37  deg.  north,  and  from  32  deg. 
longitude  west  from  Woshmgton  to  37  deg.  40 
min.  west.  Its  uraa  is  l'J2,U00  square  miles. 
Its  population  in  1H80  was  40,441.  Its  princi- 
pal towns  are  Prescott  (the  capital),  2,000  in- 
habitants, Tucson,  8,000,  Tombstone,  3,000, 
Tuma,  1,000,  and  Phoenix,  2,000.  It  was 
acquired  by  treaty  with  Mexico  in  1848,  and 
treaty  and  (Gadesden)  purchase  in  1854,  and 
was  part  of  New  Mexico  until  1863.  Wlien  it 
was  named  no  one  can  tell.  Many  theories 
ore  advanced  concerning  it.  In  the  Mohave 
language  "  an"  means  sun,  holy,  good  or  beau- 
tifnl;  "nrania"  means  maiden.  So  we  have 
the  land  of  the  holy  or  beantifol  maiden,  and 


this  is  befitting  the  clear  sky  and  people  of 
the  once  extensive  cities.  In  the  same  lan- 
guage "zona"  is  our  "zone,"  and  from  this  and 
"arv'  we  have  the  land  of  the  btmutiful  zone. 
Where  the  S.  P.  B.  B.  crosses  it,  it  is  gonendl^ 
uninviting  and  desolate,  with  large,  low  pla 
toaiis  almost  destitute  of  vegetable  and  ammol 
life.  In  the  northern  and  northeastern  por- 
tions the  plat«>auB  are  higher,  ranging  »om 
7,000  to  7,500  feet  above  the  sea,  and  there  the 
verdure  of  l)oth  mountain  and  valley  is  beau- 
tiful, and  timber  and  birds  are  abundant.  In 
mitttrals  it  probabljr  surposHos  any  State  or 
Territory  of  the  Union.  Tlie  miumg  camps 
are  now  too  numerous  to  mention,  are  being 
constantly  enlarged,  and  new  ones  established. 
At  every  station  one  may  expect  prospectors, 
with  pockets  full  of  rocks,  ready  to  sell  one  or 
a  dozen  rich  mines.  Gold,  silver,  copper,  lead, 
quicksilver,  tin,  nickel,  cinnabar,  iron,  bitu- 
minous coal,  salt,  sulphur,  gypsum,  are  all 
mined,  and  there  are  found  also  opals,  garnets, 
rod,  white  and  yellow  azurite,  malachite,  chal- 
cedony, sapphires,  and,  some  say,  diamonds. 
The  cool  fields,  in  the  northeastern  part  of  the 
Territory,  are  75,000  square  miles  in  extent. 

Soil  quit  Vfeetiiliftn. — Much  of  the  Territory 
is  liarron  and  lova-covered — (^specially  the  sides 
of  the  isolated  peaks,  and  the  mesas,  or  high 
table-lands.  Aside  from  theno,  the  soil  is  fer- 
tile, and  yields  abundantly  where  irrigation  is 
possible.  In  the  summer,  when  the  rains 
loll,  the  plains  and  even  mountain-sides  are 
covered  with  a  luxurious  growth  of  nutritious 
grasses.  This  is  espociafly  to  be  noticed  in 
the  Sulphur  Springs  Valley. 

Climate. — Neor  the  snow-capjied  mountains 
of  the  north  the  air  is  dry  and  pure,  and  some- 
times cold.  Frosts  sehlom  occur.  Southern 
Arizona  is  delightful — the  perfection  of  cli- 
mate in  winter,  but  excessively  hot  in  summer, 
except  in  the  elevated  regionH.  For  consump- 
tives it  is  l>etter  than  Florida,  because  it  is 
worm  and  also  dry.  There  ore  two  rainy  sea- 
sons— July  and  August,  and  February  and 
March.  Some  years  a  rainy  season  will  cover 
four  months,  and  occasionally  rain  falls  every 
month.  From  thirty  inches  i)er  annum  in  the 
mountains  it  decreases  in  the  valleys  and 
southward,  and  with  different  seasons  till  we 
reach  Yuma,  which  has  from  five  inches  to  less 
than  one  inch.  Thunderstorms  of  the  grandest 
kind  are  frequent,  and  the  rain  is  like  cloud- 
bursts— of  limited  area,  but  terrifte  iu  quantity. 
Because  rain  occurs  in  July  anu  August  and 
the  country  is  green  when  the  alkali  desert  in 
Nevada  is  stifling  with  dust,  the  Southern 
route  is  preferable  then,  as  in  winter,  to  the 
Union  Pacific.  The  rain  modifies  the  heat  so 
that  it  does  not  become  oppressive.  The 
writer  has  crossed  the  continent  repeatedly. 


i^MM  i^^aatFta  ratmi^. 


861 


but  nerer  with  more  oonfort  tban  on  this 
route  in  Au^st.  The  hottest  point  touohod 
on  this  road  la  Yuma. 

The  IndlaiM  at  Yuma  are  the  Vumas  ro- 
duoed  to  about  GOO.  Thoy  cultivato  wheat, 
com,  melons,  etc.,  along  the  Uila  liiver,  ami 
are  peaceable  and  friendly  to  the  whites.  Thny 
fpetik  the  Mohave  language,  and  are  at  but 
little  expeniie  for  clothiii^f.  A  breech-clout,  with 
a  streamer  behind,  is  the  whole  oorering  of  a 
warrior.  The  Ataricopas  and  Pimas  live  to- 
gether on  the  Oila  Biver  Beservation,  and 
number  about  4,000.  In  1870  thoy  sold  nearly 
2,000,000  lbs.  of  wheat,  and  are  Huocessful  in 
agriculture.  Noar  Tucson  are  the  P.tpagoes, 
6,001),  with  ranches  along  the  Santa  Cruz  near 
the  Mission  of  San  Xavier  Del  Boo. 

North  of  Willoox  is  the  San  Carlos  agency 
with  the  Coy-o-t'r  oSy  Pi-Hals,  Ar-a-vi-pas, 
ToH-t'ft,  Apach*  Vumas,  Apache  Mokavt\  and 
the  Chir-t-ca-tu-ans  including  the  Co-chise. 
All  these  are  about  4,500. 

There  are,  besides  these,  the  well-known 
Mvq<*is  and  Zunts,  in  the  northeast  part  of  the 
Territory,  and  other  groups  scattered  here  and 
there,  but  the  above  will  enable  the  tourist  to 
locata  these  scenes  along  the  rood  and  observe; 
some  of  their  difforent  characteristics.  The 
mud  hair-dressing,  ho  often  seen,  is  generally 
supposed  to  be  for  killing  vermin;  but  it  is 
mixed  with  the  juice  of  the  bulbouH  root  of  the 
amole,  a  cactus  similar  in  leaf  to  the  mescal  or 
agave,  and  used  to  make  the  hair  soft  and 
glossy.  The  root  is  often  used  for  washing  in- 
steail  of  soap. 

Arizona  does  not  appear  to  be  a  paradise  for 
the  sportsman,  but  appearances  ore  deceiving. 
Bock  from  the  railroad,  in  the  mountains, 
game  ^  >  most  plentiful.  Elk,  deer,  antelope, 
mountain  sheep,  pumas,  wildcats,  foxes,  wolves, 

Seccaries,  opossums,  and  cinnamon,  brown, 
lack  and  grizzly  bears  are  tempting  to  the 
rifleman.  Of  smaller  game  there  are  wild 
ducks,  geese  and  pigeons,  sand-hill  cranes, 
grouse,  quail  and  turkeys.  The  last  two  are 
especially  abundant,  and  a  single  turkey  often 
weighs  toriy  pounds  or  more. 

Steln*it  Pans  -  Here  we  are  in  New  Mexico, 
1118.4  miles  from  San  Francisco.  It  is  the  first 
station  we  reach  in  this  Territory  as  we  go  east. 
The  elevation  of  the  summit  is  4,352.8  feet,  and 
the  station  is  only  about  two  feet  lower. 

Having  crossed  the  boundary  line  the  name 
of  the  railroad  has  also  changed.  It  is  now  the 
Southern  Pacfic  Riilroad  ff  Nfw  Mexico, 
leased,  temporarily,  to  the  Central  Pacific. 


NEW  MEXICO, 

This  territory  extends  from  latitude  81  deg. 
20  min.  to  37  deg.  north,  and  longitude  west 


from  Washington  26  deg.  2  min.  to  83  deg.  2 
min.  west.  The  area  is  121,200  square  mUos, 
only  a  few  hundred  less  than  Arizona.  It  forms 
part  of  the  lofty  table-land  which  is  the  founda- 
tion of  the  Bocky  Mountains — the  back-bone 
of  the  continent.  This  table-land  slopes  south- 
ward from  Colorado,  and  in  the  southern  por- 
tion is  the  Llano  Estacudo,  or  Staked  Plain, 
nearly  200  miles  long  and  150  wide,  almost 
level,  and  destitute  of  water. 

It  is  covered  with  rich,  nutritious  grasses, 
and  capable  of  yielding  large  crops  if  watt>r  can 
bo  obtainod.  Tlie  mesqnit  tree  is  here.stunted 
I  to  a  more  shrub,  and  numerous  herds  of  ante- 
lope and  door  are  roaming  about.  The  plateaus 
of  t  lie  Territory  are  also  covered  with  gramma 
and  bunch  grasses  and  sustain  immense  herds 
of  cattle  and  sheep,  with  great  profit  to  their 
own(*ra.  Cattle  taK«i  a  wide  range  from  the 
watering  jilaces,  returning  for  water  only  once 
in  two  or  thriMJ  days.  The  valleys,  whore  oapa- 
blo  of  irrigation,  are  wonderfully  fertile.  In  the 
extreme  southwest  is  the  Messilla  (Mes-see-yah), 
producinjj  oranges,  figs,  poraegranat<>3  and  all 
semi-tropical  fruits.  Tlie  Pecos  extends  south 
from  the  Santa  Fe  Mountains  throughout  the 
whole  territory,  and  has  the  richest  soil,  but 
the  Bio  Grande  is  the  largest  and  most  impor- 
tant in  the  Territory.  Tiie  latter  extends 
south  from  C^oloratlo,  and  lies  between  the  two 
ranges  of  the  Bocky  Mountains.  The  eastern 
range  ends  near  Santa  Fe,  and  the  western  con- 
tinues south,  an  the  Sierra  Madre,  into  Arizona 
and  Mexico. 

New  Mexico  was  acquired  like  Arizona,  and 
included,  at  first,  both  Arizona  and  part  of 
Colorado.  It  is  rich  in  these  agricultural  val- 
leys mentioned,  in  its  pastures,  lands  and  won- 
derful mines.  We  will  yet  see  the  prophecy  of 
Baron  Yon  Humboldt  /ulflUed,  when  he  said, 
"The  wealth  of  the  world  will  be  found  in 
New  Mexico  and  Arizona. "  Gold,  silver,  cop- 
per, iron,  salt,  mica,  marble,  lead  and  coal  are 
abundant,  and  one  of  the  best  turquoise  mines 
in  the  world  is  within  her  borders,  in  the 
Cerrillo  Mountains.  The  Spaniards  covered 
twenty  acres  with  its  wastes. 

Itullans.—Ol  these  there  are  about  20,000 — 
the  Utes,  Apaches  and  Navajoes  numbering 
about  13,000,  the  Pueblos  7,000.  The  Pueblos 
are  quiet,  comparatively  industrious  and  harm- 
less. The  Apaches  and  Utes  are  the  most  hos- 
tile and  thievish,  and  the  Navajoes  the  most 
friendly,  excepting  the  Pueblos. 

The  gamt  antmtls  are  similar  to  those  of 
Arizona,  but  are  generally  to  be  found  nearer 
the  line  of  the  railroad,  especially  in  thk  .  ,aten 
and  Santa  Fe  mountains. 

Between  the  San  Pedro  Biver  and  Burro 
mountains,  numerous  forms  of  the  cacti  ore 
seen,  especially  opuntias  and  echino-cacti.  The 


8ti2 


TMM  1^m€iWM€  r^i^Misr. 


Spaniuh  bayonut,  yucca  (rlorwa  (jjage  320)  is 
uIbo  abundant.  Tl)«  libiqivifcoos  RWiose w  ockI 
{obioni)f  antl  dwiirf  mtmqnit  are  liiso  kept  iu 
niight. 

In  the  monatains  there  are  the  prrizzly  and 
black  bears  {ursusftrax  and  A  metuanus),,  Ijlack 
tailed  doer  [cerous  mcurotih),  anUilopcs  {antelc 
capra  Amtricand],  a  hirgo  rabbit  {lepuf  ^allotii), 
and  a  Btnall  rabbit  [Ifpus  aft'tnesta). 

I'liraiHid—lVXi.G  inileH  from  San  Franeiflco, 
ia  named  from  the  Pyramid  ruORG  of  moun- 
tains, runni-  g  south.  IjCo'b  I'eak  ia  quite 
prominent  in  this  range.  Bt^twoon  Stein's 
Pass  ami  this  station  is  an  alkali  Hat,  sometimes 
covered  witli  wati-r. 

fAtrfiHburgh,  a  day  tolepraph station,  1187.9 
miles,  ia  one  and  a  half  miles  from  Bhakes- 
peare,  a  small  mining  town, 

Silver  City,  New  Mexico,  north  of  this 
station,  is  reu^hed  by  stage  either  fro  a  this 
point  or  from  Demijig.  It  is  the  coun'-y  seat 
of  Grant  County,  a  lich  mining  region.  It 
claims  to  have  mofg  golfi and  sihii'r  in  siffhtihAxt 
any  other  county  under  the  American  /lag. 
There  are  many  mijiin^  camps  in  tlie  county, 
but  tltese  two,  Shakespeare  and  Silver  City,  are 
tho  largest.  Oxides  of  copper  and  iron,  and 
carbonate  of  silver  ore  the  principal  ores,  but 
sinlphurets  and  chlorides,  horn  and  native  sU- 
vor  ai'e  also  found. 

IAHb<iH--l\\^.r)  miles;  i>//»ar— 1157.0  miles; 
Wilnn — 11GJ,2  mill's;  Ga/^e — 1178  niilew,  and 
Tunis — 1189,1  miles,  8i*o  mere  side  trtieka. 

Burro  Mountain  is  on  the  nort,h  sklo  of  the 
roiwl,  Ixstween  Lordsburgh  and  Separ,  and  just 
east  of  8<^par,  at  the  crossing  of  a  little  stream 
o-  wat«r  channel,  the  road  turns  more  to  the 
north,  and  soon  passes  over  the  confiigfi/al 
dkvidf.  Separ  has  .au  elevation  of  4,503  feet, 
and  WUna  4,657. 

On  the  south  of  the  road,  and  west  of  Oage, 
is  the  Tenaja  Butte,  and  on  the  north  of  the 
road  the  Viejc  Butte. 

Detnlng  1197.5  miles  frcra  Stn  Francisco, 
and  11-49  from  Kansas  CJity,  is  th>  junction  of 
the  S.  P.  and  the  A.  T.  &  S.  F.  raiiroatls.  Pas- 
sengei**!  hero  change  froui  the  sleeping-cars  of 
the  Central  Pacitio  to  those  of  the  Pullman 
Company.  Deming  cori-eaponds  to  O^den,  on 
the  Union  and  C«mtral  Paciftc  luute.  One  hour 
i«  allowed  for  tlie  transfer  of  baggage  and 
meals.  The  depot  find  hotel  are  owned  jointly 
by  th.i  two  roadi^,  and  are  spacijua  a^^d  elegant 
for  the  puiitoses  for  which  they  era  mteuded. 
Tlie  elevation  in  4,;J34  feet. 

Pftssengers  for  New  Orleans  or  for  St.  Louis, 
via  Tma  Tbipi.r  Line,  the  third  gr^at  tnuis- 
cor.tiDPntAl  rasl^^ay.  also  change  cars  here,  but 

Proceed  over  t)io  Southern  Pat'iflc  throu(;h  El 
•ino,    sad    ovfcr  the  Texas  Paciflo  U)    Fort 
Wcij.'th  and  fcheno»»  eai'*. 


IiOfJATINO   XUK  I,rKB,   AMT1IAS  CANON,  ON  DBNYEB 
AND  tUO  OSANriS  AAIIjWAT,  COLOBADO< 

The  eating  bouse  and  hotel  at  Deming  are 
und:»r  tJr  'jharg«^  of  the  T^ell-known  oatarer. 
Prod.  jS".v/>v.  He  has  leased  all  the  eating- 
liousos  oi  tlie  lino  of  the  A.  T.  &  S.  F.  rood, 
and  thorjuglily  understands  Jiow  to  gratify  the 
appetif  J  of  the  most  fastidious  traveh  r.  The 
pnco  for  meals  ia  a  dollar  eacli.  They  are 
always  good,  but  differ  of  necessity,  aocoruing 
to  the  locality  of  the  station.  Chickens  an»i 
grouse  do  not  thrive  in  the  sage-Vniish  and 
greABe-woo«l  of  the  jilains,  or  the  cacti  of  the 
desert. 

Deming  is  situated  in  the  valley  of  the  Bio 
Membres  (Meam-bresa)  or  Lost  Ki\'er,  in  an 
uninviting  region.  Ah  you  approach  it  from 
the  wost,  fertility  disappears,  the  priiss  on  tlie 
mesa  Is  thinned  but,  and  the  strikmg  forms  of 
vegetation  are  a  cactus  {/onguieria  spUnden), 
the  Spanish  1)ayon«»t  and  creasote  bush  [Larrea 
M^.ruii'o),     S<»e  pages  29;j  and  294. 

The  Rio  Mcmbrt^s  is  a  dry  channel  most  of 
the  year,  the  river  v/hich  flows  steadil;,  tunid 
Cottonwood    tiNNna    in  the  ujiper  part  of  the 


wmm  ^^€XFia  Toummw, 


363 


lYBB 


;  are 

arer, 

ling- 

oiwl, 

J  the 

The 

r  are 

■uinR 

and 

ami 

f  the 

iU  uii 
from 
a  tlie 
nci  of 
I  Jen), 
arrea 

)8t  of 

i  the 


vbJIpv,  haviuf^  disappeartul  in  the  sandH.  Thei-e 
i»re  sand  duneM  around  the  station,  and  atretc^h- 
ing  away  off  ti)ward  the  Rio  Grande  River.  Near 
by  the  Picacho  de  los  Nuinlires  rears  its  head 
2,500  feet  above  the  plain.  It  is  ton  milos  long, 
and  iH'ipg  isolated  from  other  ranges,  forms  a 
noted  landmark.  From  it  the  Organ  moun- 
tains, near  Ei  Paao,  are  distinctly  visible. 

The  Messilla  {.Ifess  see-yah)  Valley  is  south 
of  East  on  the  way  to  El  Paso. 

After  Supper  at  Deming,  the  start  EuHtward  is 
made,  the  course  to  Eincon  being  Kortheaat. 
Tlio  country  passed  over  is  mostly  barreu  until 
the  valley  of  the  Rio  Grande  is  reached. 

Hhwou,  on  the  river,  1250. 1  miles  from  San 
Francisco,  is  the  junction  of  a  branch  to  El 
Paso,  connecting  there  with  the  Mexican  Cen- 
tral Railroad. 

From  Rincan,  the  general  course  is  almost 
A'iie  north  to  Lamy,  through  the  valley  of  the 
Rio  Granc'e,  This  valley,  about  400  miles 
long,  avc^Mis'Jig  (for  cultivation)  three  miles  in 
w  idth,  18  ',h  finest  portion  of  the  Territory. 
With  irrgation  the  fertility  is  inexhaustibfe. 
Gravelly  wastes  covered  with  creosote  bushes 
(Latrfa  M),  sage  brush  [a'timfsid),  and 
grease-wood  (chHtic),  and  representatives  of 
the  v.wX\  may  bo  transformed  into  fruitful 
vineyards  and  beautiful  gardens.  The  valley 
is  enriched  as  Iwuntifully  as  was  Egypt  by  the 
Nile,  but  not  so  regularly,  for  here  the  clouds 
may  burst  in  the  rainy  season  almost  without 
warning.  Lime,  sand  and  marl  are  eroded 
from  the  adjticent  hills  and  left  to  bless  the 
labors  of  the  husbandman.  Wheat,  com, 
beans  and  aUalfa  are  common  and  profitable 
crops,  and  orchards  c»f  pea«:hes,  plums,  pears, 
apricots  are  heavily  laden.  Grapes  are  abund- 
ant, and  the  wine  celebrat(;d  for  its  rich  flavor. 

One  advantage  of  this  route  is  the  striking 
i]histra,tioii8  of  the  progress  of  civilization  it 
affords.  We  see  the  miner  carrying  the  com- 
forts aud  luxuries  of  life  to  the  scorched,  sandy 
v^astes  of  Arizona.  Wo  see  whept  fields  un- 
broken for  hundreds  of  miles  in  the  San 
Joaq  uic  Valley,  and  the  enormous  crops  sowed 
and  liarvest-ed  with  all  the  labor-saving  devices 
that  modern  art  can  furnish.  The  •'header" 
starts  upon  its  course,  and  immediately  the 
steam  thresher  iw  heard,  and  night  closes  upon 
3,000  sacks  of  winnowed  grain,  the  result  of  a 
day's  labor.  Soon  after,  in  the  valley  of  the 
Rio  Grande,  wo  find  the  Mexican  and  Indian 
harvesting  with  all  the  simplicity  of  oriental 
times.  The  wheat  is  cut  with  a  sickle  and  car- 
ried unbound  to  a  level  floor  of  hard  ground 
from  50  to  203  feet  in  diameter,  according  to 
the  size  of  the  farm.  The  grain  is  there  trod- 
den out  by  a  flock  of  goats  or  sheep,  and  some- 
times by  bun-oa  or  ponies  eating  while  they 
slowly  tramp,  as  if  they  seldom  feasted  so  well 


and  were  likely  to  leaver  but  little  for  their 
master.  It  is  a  sin  to  muzzle  the  ox  that 
treails  the  grain.  Then  the  winnowing  is  on 
tlie  plan  of  the  H.>brews,  tossing  the  grain  in 
the  air  when  a  stiff  bi-eeze  blows.  Even  wooden 
plows  are  used — crooked  sticks,  each  with  an 
iron  point  fastened  with  raw-hide  thongs. 
Carts  also  contrast  ludicrously  with  the  car- 
riages r'ln  on  steel  rails.  They  ar;>  wholly  oi 
wood  I  iiu  raw-hide.  The  body  is  of  poles 
rudely  luiitened  together,  and  the  wheels  are 
made  of  boards,  with  a  clumfiy  wooden  hub 
aud  a  tire  of  raw-hide. 

The  gfcueral  altitude  of  the  valley  ranges 
from  about  7,700  f;'«'t  above  the  sea  to  5,026  at 
Albr'qurque. 

Sua  Mai'dnl  atul  Soforro  are  ])a«sed  at 
night,  both  old  towns,  now  inhabited  largely 
by  Mexicans.  Socon'o  was  so  named  by  the 
Spaniards  in  1580,  because  of  the  succor  it 
gave  their  half-starved  expedition.  West  of 
Socorro  are  tht!  Magdalena  ISIountaina,  rich  and 
extensive  in  silver  mines.  Hematite,  iron-ore, 
limestone  and  clay  also  abound.  Beside  these 
Socorro  is  a  centre  for  galena,  manganese,  anti- 
mony, ar.senic,  cobalt,  zino  and  magnetic  iron- 
ore. 

^llbnquerquf  in  155.4:  miles  from  Deming, 
and  one  of  the  typical  Mexican  U)wns. 
Although  the  cultivated  part  of  the  valley  is 
not  many  miles  wide,  the  valley  itself  at  "this 
point  is  170  miles  in  width. 

It  has  about  4,000  people,  and  is  a  town  of 
railroad  bustle,  being  the  eastern  terminus  of 
the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  Ralb-oad,  nov/  in  pro- 
cess of  construction  to  unite  with  the  Southern 
Pacific  at  the  Colorado  River.  It  will  cross  the 
Grand  Canon  of  this  river,  1,600  feet  above  the 
water,  on  a  bridge  with  a  single  span  of  400 
feet,  and  opens  up  to  the  miner  and  the  tourist 
a  vast  region,  with  some  of  the  grandest 
scenery  on  the  continent. 

It  passes  also  through  the  country  of  the 
Zuui  Indians,  their  chief  city,  Zuni,  being  i)er- 
haps  the  liest  prep&i  ved  and  most  interesting 
of  all  the  community-houses  or  pueblos  in  the 
land. 

lAitny,  the  junction  of  the  Sante  Fe  branch, 
with  its  eating-houses,  is  reached  for  a  late 
breakfast,  according  to  the  time  table,  but  the 
trains  are  run  on  Jefferson  (!ity  time.  It  is 
298  miles  from  Doming,  and  eight«»en  from 
Santa  Fe.  It  is  named  in  honor  of  Archbishop 
Laniy,  who  has  done  much  for  the  progress  of 
the  Territory.  Tlio  tourist  should  by  all  means 
turn  aside  to  visit 

Santa  Pe,  the  capital  and  metropolis  of  the 

Territory.     No  point  betweeu   San  Francisco 

and  the"  Missouri  River  has  so  much  history 

centering  aboiit  it,  and  none  is  of  more  arcliie- 

1  ological  intert'st.     Its  settlement  runs  back  into 


H* 


864 


rmx  pjtciFia  ^omstisr. 


the  forgotten  pbst.  With  Tuscci,  Arizona, 
nu'l  St  Anguntinp,  Florida,  as  livals,  it  claiiup 
the  earliest  origin  an  v-  town  on  the  continent. 
Jn  1542,  Home  say,  tho  Spaniards  took  poHses- 
sion  of  it.  Alva  Nunea  Caloza  de  Vaca,  alup- 
wreoked  oflf  Texas  in  15H0,  may  have  passed 
tins  way  to  Mexico.  His  storv,  however,  led 
to  an  expeuitioD  in  1537  under  Marctia  di  Niza, 
a  Franciscan  friar,  who  wai  frig***ened  off  by 
the  Indians,  but  was  followed  lir  the  f '.mons 
oxpedition  of  Coronado  in  1531)  to  1542.  All>e 
Doniinich  mentions  Hpauish  provinces  in  1542, 
f.n<l  one  ot  these  is  Biipposed  to  have  been 
8unta  '£o.  Coronado  was  in  search  of  the 
Bcveu  cities  of  Cibola.  He  found  a  city  called 
Cic  ;je,  a  strongly  fortified  city,  having  houses 
four  stflries  high,  built  in  a  narrov/  vuUej  in 
the  mid:4t  of  mountains  covered  with  pines, 
traveriied  by  a  siieftia  in  which  lio  caught  some 
exceLoui  trout,  florae  supposed  this  city  to 
bo  Bantfv  i'e,   but  thi*   researches  fMnoug  the 

J)nebloe.  roiMle  V>y  Ool.  Steveu'on  and  others, 
e»d  cbem  i-^  conclude  that  Cicuyo  was  not  on 
the  site  of  Santa  Pe,  the  City  of  the  Holy 
Faith. 

In  1<?00  it  hai',  a  Spanish  goveruor,  Pedro  dj 
Peroilo,  *nd  iH8U  the  Spaiiii'.rds  w?re  driven 
out  of  th'j  citj'.  Thev  recaptured  it  in  1694. 
The  traditions  uf  the  Pueblo  Indians  make  the 
citj  1.000  years  old.  It  is  built  on  the  site  of 
an  old  and  large  puebio.  On  tlie  left  of  tlto 
river  the  old  foundations  of  amall  stones  laid  in 
ad  ..)e  are  easy  to  find. 

The  oldest  cnurch  is  thnt  of  San  Miguel, 
erected  prooablv  in  1640,  aud  rebuilt  in  1710. 
It  has  some  old  paintings  of  interest,  though 
not  remarkable  in  execution.  The  one  of  ' '  The 
Annunciation,"  is  dated  on  the  back  1287,  but 
the  date  is  probably  spurious. 

Besides  this  ancient  church,  the  most  inter- 
esting buildings  are  the  Governor's  palace, 
where  the  business  wds  transacted  from  time 
immemorial,  and  which  has,  therefore,  an  inter- 
esting history,  the  churches,  tbe  ruins  of  old 
Fort  Marcy,"^  the  plaza,  the  Palace  Hotel,  the 
military  headquarters  of  New  Mexico,  and  the 
gardens  of  Archbishop  Lamy. 

In  tlie  Bishops  gardens  are  delicious  fruits, 
inclading  peaclies,  pears,  figs,  oranges  aad 
lemons,  and  the  choicest  fiowers. 

The  Indians,  espetually  the  Navajoes,  luake 
excellent  blankets,  twisting  the  yam  and  weav- 
ing them  entirely  bv  hand.  The  finest  of  them 
will  hold  water  and  sell  for  about  seventy-five 
dollars  each. 

The  pottery  is  another  object  of  curiosity, 
but  it  is  probably  le.^s  artistic  than  it  was  in  tfio 
dayp  of  the  Aztecs.  Tlie  luodern  pottery  is 
kept  for  sale  in  the  town. 

Mexican  fUogree  jewelry  is  another  curious 
object  of  interoft.     It  is  mikle  of  pure  gold  or 


silver,  Itecause  none  other  can  be  wrought  into 
such  wire  as  the  manufacturing  requires.  The 
wire  tUnvul  is  tr.'iRted  and  rolled,  and  then 
wound  on  pins  set  in  a  framu  of  wire  until,  at 
the  pleasure  of  the  skilled  workman,  any  de- 
sired figure  is  produced.  Feathers,  fignrea  ol 
men  and  Rnimfcls,  aU  are  pro  luced,  and  some* 
times  studded  with  getns. 

In  1861  the  city  was  captured  by  the  rebels 
uuder  Gen.  Sibley,  and  occupied  for  a  few  days, 
when  they  were  obliged  to  flee  in  consequence 
of  defeat  at  Pigeou  Banch  and  Apache  Canon. 

It  has  now  about  8,000  inhabitants,  and  is 
supplied  with  water  v.a(\.  gas.  It  has  a  delight- 
ful climate,  exceedirgly  favorable  for  pulmo- 
nary disease  and  asthma.  The  mean  tempera- 
ture for  six  years — 1874  to  1880 — was:  Spring, 
49.7  deg. ;  Summer,  70.4  deg. ;  Autumn,  50.(1 
deg. ;  Winter,  31.6  deg.  Total,  50.6  deg.  For 
catarrh,  rheumatism  and  neuralgia  the  climat« 
is  not  favorable.  In  the  winter  snow  falls  at 
times,  and  there  are  usually  tliree  or  four  snows 
from  six  to  twelve  inches  deep.  The  sumincr 
rains  fall  in  July  and  August,  and  "when  it 
rains  it  pours. " 

The  plains  aad  mesas  are  covered  with 
gramma  and  other  lich  nutritious  grasses. 
Aloafj  the  streams  arc  found  cottonwood,  wal- 
luit,  maple  and  mesquit  trees,  and  on  the 
mountains  there  are  nut-bearing  pines  Ipinus 
fiulus).  The  mesquit  is  little  more  tlian  a 
shrub  in  many  places,  but  with  tremendous 
roots,  making  from  a  simple  bush  half  a  cord 
of  fire- wood,  transi)orted  to  market  on  burros 
driven  or  led  by  Mexicans  or  Indians.  This 
has  been  the  main  dependence  of  tho  city  for 
fire-wood,  and  for  the  purpose  it  is  ox  salient. 
Besides  l)eing  hard,  it  bums  witli  an  aromatic 
odor.  The  surrounding  mountains  nr  ■  full  of 
minerals,  gold,  silver,  oynx,  agates,  garnets  and 
opals. 

From  Santa  Fe  one  may  cross  over,  bv  stage, 
twenty-seven  miles  to  Espanola  on  the  Bio 
Grande,  the  southern  terminus  of  tho  Denver 
and  Kio  Grande  Boilway  and  reach  tho  famous 
Ojo  Calicnte  Springs,  or  the  sublime,  majestio 
ond  awful  scenery  of  the  Embu^.o  Canon, 
Totteo  Gorge  and  Veta  Pa«s,  and  proceed  cuthor 
to  the  San  Juan  country  7>ia  the  wild  Animas 
Canon,  or  througli  the  Grand  Canon  of  the 
Arkansas  to  Gunnison  or  Le^tdville,  or  via 
Pueblo  to  Manitou  and  Denver. 

Leaving  L  miy  'Ju*ctioH,  a  run  of  sixty-five 
miles  through  lK>autiful  valleys  and  amid  lofty 
mountains,  brings  o!io  to  Lts  Vfgai  for  dinner. 

Teorttlli  Moiinhiiit,  Col.  \  peak  of  the 
Elk  range  13,113  feet  above  sea-iovel.  The 
st>  s..a  are  nearly  iioriznutal  and  so  broken  as  to 
form  a  series  of  st^^ps  from  tho  base  to  the 
summit,  and  is  namett  from  its  resoraVdanoo  to 
the  Teooalli  "  House  of  Gt>d,"  of  tho  A/tecs. 


FMM  Pi§€iriC  WQfmmW. 


365 


Q 


1 


M* 


III' 


1^ 


U9 


FMM  F:9aiFW  TQW^IBT. 


Betwpen  Santa  Fe  and 
tipper  part  of  the  valley 


Las  Vepns,  in  the 
^  of  tl)e  Kio  PecoB, 
wluoh  the  railroad  crosses,  and  about  a  miln 
and  a  quarter  south  of  the  station,  are  thePeros 
ruins.  The  old  church  and  pueblo  will  repay 
the  time  and  labor  of  a  visit.  The  liouses  were 
four  stories  high,  without  opening  on  the 
ground  floor  and  scaled  by  ladders. 

The  railroad  follows  closely  the  old  Santa  Fo 
trail,  which  for  a  long  time  was  the  only  lino  of 
travel  from  the  Missouii  River  to  the  west  and 
southwest.  The  oourHO  is  southeast  for  a  time, 
in  order  to  get  around  the  southora  end  of  the 
Santa  Fe  iiic>uutai:i. 


shown  by  th*^  following  chomical  analysis,  made 

by  Prof.'F.  V.  Hayden,  United  States  geologist: 

CoNanruKNTfi.            Hpiumo  No.  1.  No.  3.  No.  8. 

Sodium  oarboDBte 1  T!l  1.17  B.OO 

Mt'n'ISum'"""'}--  '•<»  lO"  "•«» 

8  idiiim  Rulphate 14.13  15.4»  18.91 

H  dium  clilorlde -27.36  34.B7  37.34 

I'otMwinm Trscn  Tnoe  Tracd 

Lithium    Strong  tr»<-e  Str.  trace     Btr.  trace 

SlUcloarJd 1.04  .    Trace  3.61 

Iodine Trace  Trace  Trace 

Bromlnb Trace  Trace  Tnfe 

Temperature 130"F.  ISa-F.  ISST. 

Tlie  improvements  aru  complete  and  mag- 
nificent— everything  in  ke<^ping  with  the  charm 
ing    scenery    and    delightful  climate.     The 


^'!^(M9S^9if#ii 


W*f  F 


■^r/'- 


rwii       fl 


Jjas  VeffnSf  like  Sauta  Fe,  slvould  not  be 
passed  hastily.  I'ivo  niiUjs  from  the  station  are 
the  noted  and  ancient  springs  to  which  Indians 
Ions*  resorted  with  tlieir  inoloilies,  tmd  for  the 
improvement  of  whi(!li  a  Boston  Company  liave 
wisely  expended  more  than  ^100,0!)0.  The  l)ath 
house  ia  200  fuet  long  and  42  feet  wide.  The 
springs  ore  twenty-two  in  number,  and  varv  in 
temporjturo  from  110  deg.  to  ]4<)  deg.  All  are 
on  the  banks  of  the  cold  Gallinas  Biver,  a 
tributary  of  the  Pecos. 

J  he  character  of  thf  witttrsia  similar  to  that 
of  the  famous  Hot  Springs  of   Arkansas,    as 


elevation  of  Las  Vegas  (6, 400  feet)  and  Colorado 
Springs  is  abont  tlie  same,  but  Las  yoKa.s  Iniing 
on  the  great  f^svatod  |>1»teau,  with  its  slope  to 
the  sunny  south,  is  miu'h  drier  and  more  favor^ 
able  for  pulmonary  diseow*.  It  lias  long  been 
considered  the  fSfrimt  sanitonum  of  the  country. 

Las  Vegas  ti>wn  has  »  population  of  al>out 
2,()(K),  and  is  situated  in  one  comer  of  tlie  San 
CarJoH  mining  district.  It  is  the  i-ounty  tc>wn 
of  Miguel  coxi.nty. 

From  Las  Vegas  the  creneral  cooise  is  norths 
east,  and  then  north  u  and  across  iho  Ifeifct»» 
mountains,  ascending  to  the  ICatom  Pass  alouf; 
Willow  Creek  to  t.  tunn<-l  of  2,0(W  fe*»».  iui4 
emerging  to  follow  Raton  Creek,  cromaiM;  the 
Pargaterio  Rivi'r  and  continuing  nortihMst  ta 
the  ArkansBfl. 

Tlio  Raton  mountains  aflbnl  some  of  the 
flnei»t  scenery  on  the  lino  of  th«^  roml,  and  lu>re 
are  some  of  th«  greatest  triumphs  of  engineer, 
ing.  Before  tlio  tunnel  was  completed  tho  cars 
a.scende(l  tho  mountnin  on  a  "  switch-lMick," 
*".  f.,  nft;  r  climbiny  as  far  as  }>o.Hsible  the  train 
AV(mld  ba  backed  as  on  a  "  Y,"  there  being  ji;i 
room  for  curvew,  and  so  it  would  zig-zag  up  thu 
mountain  on  u  grade  of  317  feet  to  tho  mile. 


to 


10 

re 
r» 
n 

» 
iu 

m 
c. 


FMM  ipjiciJFia  r&imiSF. 


867 


This  pass  was  the  memorable  battle-ground  of 
the  railroad  war  between  the  Denver  and  Bio 
Grande  Railway  and  the  Atchison,  Topeka  and 
Santa  Fe  companiea — each  one  claiming  the 
right  to  the  pass  to  the  cxelnsion  of  tlie  other. 
Eight  miles  north  of  /i*/i/<7n  Btatiou,  wlu-re  pas- 
senger trains  stop  for  breakfast  and  supper,  the 
line  is  Ciossed  between  New  Mexico  and  Colo- 
rado, 667  miles  from  Kansas  City.  After  pass- 
ing tlirough  the  llaton  tannel  we  are  on  the 
water-shed  drained  by  the  Missonri  River  and 
its  trilmtai-ies,  and  roach  Trinidad  in  about  an 
hour  and  a  half.  It  is  a  compact  city  of  coal 
mines,  fire-clay,  stone  quarries,  coke-ovens  and 
cattle  trade,  it  is  only  five  miles  from  AV  Mo*  n, 
the  sontiiem  terminus  of  a  branch  of  the 
D.  &  R.  G.  Railway,  and  is  connected  with  it 
by  stage.  El  Moro  is  almost  directly  south  of 
Denver,  and  like  Trinidad  is  noted  for  its  coal 
and  coke  ovens. 

The  Arkansas  River  is  reached  at  L  i  Junla, 
and  followed  hundreds  of  miles  to  Emporia. 
The  valley  varies  from  four  to  forty  miles  in 
width,  and  irrigation  is  si^en  hero  and  there. 
La  Junta  is  1,775.7  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
and  571  from  Kansas  City,  and  is  the  junction 
of  the  "New  Mexico  Extension  "  with  the  main 
line.  The  main  line  extends  west  to  Peublo, 
63.5  miles,  there  connecting  with  the  Denver 
and  Rio  Grande  Railway  for  Colorado  Springs, 
Manitou,  Denver  and  southwestern  Colorado. 

La  Junta  is  the  first  point  in  going  east  from 
which  iiiere  are  two  passenfifer  trains  a  day 
to  Kansas  City.  The  i)lains  appear  unproduc- 
tive, but  they  afford  fine  pasturage,  as  is  evi- 
denced by  the  cattle  along  the  road. 

Lms  Anitn€ts—M8  miles  from  Kansas  City, 
is  one  of  the  important  centres  of  this  vtwt 
trade.  Just  before  breakfasting  the  train  will 
oross  ihe  State  line,  480.7  miles  from  Kansas 
City,  and  2.4  miles  from  C/^'^/'f/^-.,  the  eating 
station,  when  tlie  Woatern  division  ends  and 
the  Middle  division  begins.  From  this  point 
the  rood  traverses  the  great  State  of  Kansas 
until  it  enters  Missouri,  near  Kansas  City.  The 
whole  day  will  bo  B))ent  along  the  Arkansas 
River,  with  dinner  at  Lamed,  308  miles  from 
Eansas  City. 

At  ElUnwood,  275.7  miles  from  Kansas  City, 
mere  is  a  branch  road  or  cut-oflF,  uniting  agam 
with  the  main  lino  at  Florence.  The  tlirough 
trains  follow  the  longer  line,  making  a  <;etour 
to  the  south  and  passing  tlirough  Newton,  one 
of  the  most  flourishing  sootions  in  the  centre  of 
t..>««  State. 

At  Ilutrhin^fw.  234.1  miles  from  Kansas 
Citv,  the  railroa<i  leaves  the  Arkansas  River, 
which  it  has  loUowec'^  from  La  Junta,  and  takes 
» «x>urse  east,  crosses  the  Little  Arkansas  River 
a  short  distance  east  of  Burrton  to 

Sewt4m,  a  city  of  4.000  people,  in  the  midst 


of  the  prosperous  Mennoniies,  whose  farms 
and  schools  are  not  excelled  in  this  enterprising 
State.  Here  are  mull)erry  hedges,  busy  silk- 
worms, refuse  manure  burning  in  the  houses 
in  large  ovens  for  fuel,  corn,  wheat,  live-stocl;. 
of  all  kinds,  and,  in  short,  whatever  products 
are  common  to  a  good  farm.  From  Newton 
there  is  a  bm»'-'.  . oad  directly,  80  4  miles  to 
Caldwell,  c  x  the  l»cv.ndnry  of  the  Indian  Ter- 
ritory, waitii  %  for  p(^rmission  to  cross  to  the 
Oulf  of  Mexico.  From  this  branch  there  are 
two  other  branches,  one  southeast  to  Arkansas 
Citv,  and  the  other  west  to  Harfjer, 

From  Newton  the  general  course  is  north-east 
to  Kansas  City.    At 

Florence^ xa\.  eating;  att^tion  for  all  passenger 
trains,  and  the  supper-station  for  the  Atlantic 
Express  going  east,  every  siJortsnian  should 
spend  a  few  davs.  No  i)lace  in  the  State  excels 
this  for  prairie  chiukcms  {t-tmo  cui>idn)  or 
grouse  shooting.  In  autumn  McPherson  Lake, 
on  the  short  line,  or  McPhersnti  B^nnch,  about 
midway  between  Florence  and  EUinwood,  is 
covered  with  ducks  and  geese  that  afford  pleas- 
ant shooting  from  a  stand  among  reeds  on  the 
shore. 

From  Florence  there  is  another — the  Eldnrado 
Branch — extending  diretily  south  about  tliirty 
miles.  After  leaving  Florence,  the  Cottonwood 
River,  on  which  it  is  8ituat<>d,  is  followed  to 
Emporia.  The  country  resembles  in  cultivation 
the  well-farmed  prairies  of  Illinois  or  Ohio. 
Farmers  live  comfortably.  Towns  are  numer- 
ous and  prosperous. 

Cottonirood  Falls,  on  the  main  line,  is  the 
county -seat  of  Chose  County,  and  derives  much 
importance  from  its  water-power,  coal  and 
ochre  beds,  and  numerous  -quarries  of  an  ex- 
ceedingly handsome  ma^fnesian  limestone.  Thi} 
stone  was  used  for  the  State  buildings  at  Topeka, 
and  is  transported  throughout  all  the  State. 

Fnipovia  is  at  the  crossing  of  the  Neosho 
River,  127.8  miles  from  Kansas  City,  and  2,218.7 
from  San  Francisco,  is  a  town  of  10,000  people, 
the  seat  of  the  State  Normal  School,  and  liat. 
Iinsiness  houses  tliat  would  do  credit  to  Kansas 
City  itself.  It  WiW  settled  in  18.57.  To  see  this 
charming  part  of  the  State,  between  Florence 
and  Kansas  City,  one  going  east  should  take  a 
day  train,  spending  the  night  at  Newton  or 
Florence.  From  Emporia  the  Il"U"'*d  Branch 
extends  directly  south,  76  miles  to  Howard. 

Onnge  Citfi,  ItarHttunme  and  Carhott- 
dnle  are  all  in  the  ceiiivo  of  a  vsist  coal  region, 
tapped  by  the  Missouri  Pacific,  as  well  as  the 
Atchison^  Topeka  and  Santa  Fe  Railroad.  This 
great  coal  body  is  208  miles  long  and  107  wide. 
There  are  two  beds  of  bituminous  coal  in  th« 
strata,  one  ot  which  i»  Hiirteer  feet  thick,  alx>nt 
300  feet  below  the  surface,  and  the  other  9% 
feet  thick  about  <«()0  feet  down.    Burlingame 


w 


868 


has  a  branch  north  to  Manhattan  on  the  Eaw 
Biver,  and  uniting  there  with  the  Kansas 
Faoiflo  Division  of  the  Union  Paoifio  Railway. 
Pitgona  ffpringH. — These  Springs  are  situ- 
ated near  tho  base  of  the  San  Juan  Mountains, 
in  southeastern  Colorado,  and  is  one  of  the  most 
noted  hot  springs  on  tho  continent.  It  has  lonrj 
been  famous  among  Indian  trib'  .  It  ia  ia  a 
beautiful  valloy  tlu-oe  miles  lou^^'  by  one  milo 


there  is  a  copious  deposit,  which  has  built  up 
the  rim  of  various  Inies,  generally  white  tint,bni 
sometimes  green  or  pitik  in  color.  The  rim 
is  largely  chloride  of  sodium,  but  silicates  aro 
also  found.  The  flow  has  gradually  pushed  over 
t!ie  walls  or  rim  of  tho  basin  until  it  has  cov- 
ered on  area  of  ten  or  twenty  acres  to  a  depth 
of  twenty  f  r^et  or  more. 
Topeka  is  the  capital  of  the  State,  and  also 


I'AOOSA  HFRTNOB,   COIjORADO. 


wttle,  Btirrounded  by  lofty  pine^slad  mountains, 
over-t<>p]xHl  by  bold-craggy  peaks.  It  is  a 
great  bftniu  about  150  feet  in  circumference,  and 
of  depth  unknown  as  y(>t.  Hh  watt^ra  are  con- 
tinuAlly  seething  and  einittiug  clouds  of  car- 
bonic acid  and  sulpliurettpd  hydrogen  gas  that 
resembles  tho  vapor  of  Hteain.  Tlio  tost^  of 
the  water  is  dettidcdly  minera],   and  from  it 


the  headquarters  for  tho  Atchison,  Topeka  and 
Santa  Fo  Boilroad.  It  is  {jt  i.  5  miles  from  Atchi- 
Hon,  and  6G.6  from  Kousah  City,  Its  name 
means  "potatoes"  in  th^  Indian  tongue,  and 
both  are  familiar  in  American  history.  Its 
population  in  n(>iirly  20,(KX),  Its  public  build- 
ingH,  coUogea  and  Hominmen.  and  raUroad  and 
machine  shops,  give  '6  physical,  iutellectual 


political 
From  Tc 
lows  tho 
river.  O 
To^>eka, 
Union  Pf 
is  in  Nor 


WMJFi   ^^€l¥tC  FO^MiSF. 


869 


at 
m 
ro 
er 

V- 

th 
so 


i' 


? 


I 


■ 


OBAMl>  OANON  OF  THB  ARKANSAS,  ON  DENVKB  AND  BIO  OBANDE  BAHiWAr, 

COLORADO. 


shi- 
ime 
Bind 
Its 
ild- 
and 
)ual 


{)oIitical  and  moral  provinfos  in  the  Stato, 
Trom  Topolca  t  >  Kr.n^r.s  C'dj,  tlio  road  fol- 
lows tliQ  soiitli  lunk  of  tlio  Kaw  or  Kansas 
rivor.  On  tho  n-  rth  l>fink  of  tho  rivor,  at 
Topeka,  is  tlio  Krinsixs  r.icifio  division  of  tlin 
Union  Pacific  Railway.  Tho  depot  of  this  roa  I 
is  in  North  Topeka. 


From  Top(^ka  tho  main  line  of  tho  A.  T.  &  S.  F. 
road  oxtonds  to  A'c/iiwn,  50.5  iuili>s,  and  thero 
forms  close  oonno .tion  for  all  ]>oint3  in  the 
Mst.  It  is  l)oantifnlly  sitn.itod  on  the  west  hank 
of  tho  Missouri  rivor,  at  tlio  extreme  western 
point  of  the  "  Groat  Bond."  Tho  !Missonri  is 
bridfjtod  at  this  point,  and  in  tho  Union  depot 


thero  arn 

&  8t.  Joo 

roadn,  anc 

Paoiflc,  a 

which  ha\ 

Tho  Ov 

Topeka,  i 

JiauROH  C 

bank  of 

Kansas  P( 

Both  of  i 

and  Law* 

the  Btoini 

Lawrence 

Lane,  Bol 

shivery  le 

Amos  Lai 

burned  di 

been  rebu 

It  is  an  im 

Union  Pa 

in  the  nc 

and  the  I 

Kansas  B. 

soutli  to  tl 

SOS.    It  is 

and  the  b£ 

PUasitHi 

Cedar  Ju 

and  formt 

Paciflo  at  ] 

Kannm 

Missouri  i 

Missouri. 

west  of  CI: 

most  impo 

It  boasts  o 

expects  to 

is  moved 

bends  to  tl 

bridge.     T 

than  "Hov( 

modious  U 

hills  huvo  1 

water  and 

are  nearly 

legos,  besii 

of  which  0 

York  city. 

in  beef  ant 

soon  distnn 

The  Uni< 

and  the  bri 

and  Bubsti 

depot  to  th 

the  city. 

From  Kn 
trunk  linot 
variations  ( 
ticket.     1. 
Quiucy.     2 


\ 


rm^  s^jiciFic  ro^jtisr. 


871 


H 


4 


% 
I 


there  aro  to  lio  foiintl  tho  trains  of  tho  }Iannil)al 
&  St.  Joo,  and  Chicaj^o,  Burliujjrtim  &  Quinov 
roatlf),  and  thono  of  tlio  (Jliicago,  Ro(!k  iHland  k 
Fooiflc,  and  tho  MisHouri  PaciJdo  roads,  all  of 
which  havo  eantorn  connoctionH. 

Thn  Overland  Express  loaves  tho  main  lino  at 
Topeka,  and  takes  the  Kansas  City  branch  to 
Jiansas  City.  It  follows  the  ri^^h't  or  south 
bank  of  the  Kansas  or  Kaw  river,  and  tho 
Kansas  Pacific  runs  parallel  on  tho  north  bank. 
Both  of  these  roads  patis  throu(?h  Lfcompton 
and  Lawrence.  Lecomptcn  was  the  capital  in 
the  stormy  days  of  the  sla/ery  agitation,  and 
Lawrence  the  head-quarters  of  John  Brown, 
Lane,  Robinson,  Conway  and  othor  noted  nnti- 
slavery  leaders.  It  was  named  in  honor  of 
Amos  Lawrence,  of  Boston.  In  1S68,  it  was 
burned  during  the  Quautrcll  raid,  but  it  has 
been  rebuilt,  and  is  the  prettiest  c'ty  in  Kansas. 
It  is  au  important  centre  for  railroads.  Tho 
Union  Pacific  havo  a  branch  to  Leavenworth 
in  the  north,  and  Carbondale  in  the  south, 
and  the  Kansas  City,  Lawrence  &  Southern 
KausasB.  li.,  from  Kansas  City  and  Lawrence 
soutli  to  the  Neosho  valley  and  southern  Kan- 
sas. It  is  also  the  seat  of  the  State  University. 
and  the  second  city  of  tho  State  in  sze. 

Pteastnt  Hill  B'ntick  leaves  tho  main  line  at 
Cedar  yunctioi,  23  miles  from  Knuaa;^  City, 
and  forms  a  connection  with  the  Miss^ouri 
Pacific  at  Pleasant  Hill,  44  milos  distant. 

Kannas  City  is  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Missouri  river,  just  over  the  Kansas  line  in 
Missouri.  It  is  the  greatest  railroiwl  centre 
west  of  Chicago  and  St.  Louis,  and  one  of  the 
most  important  commercial  cities  of  the  Union. 
It  boasts  of  being  the  geographical  centre,  and 
expects  to  receive  the  natiomu  car  ',al  when  it 
is  moved  from  Washington.  Hero  thn  rivor 
bends  to  the  east  and  iu  spanned  by  an  elegant 
bridge.  The  city  is  mainly  situated  on  more 
than  "seven  hills,"  while  the  great  and  com- 
modious Union  depot  ia  undor  the  blnft*.  Tim 
hills  havo  l);>on  levelled,  and  the  valleys  fi.loil, 
water  and  street  railways  introduced.  There 
are  nearly  a  score  of  banks,  two  medical  col- 
leges, besiih'S  numerous  wholesale  houses,  some 
of  which  claim  to  be  the  largest  west  of  New 
York  city.  The  stock  vards  are  extensive,  and 
in  beef  and  pork  packing  the  people  expect  to 
soon  distance  Cincinnati,  St.  Louis  and  Chicago. 

The  Union  depot  ia  large  and  commodious, 
and  the  bridge  across  the  Missouri  river  solid 
and  substantial.  Street  cars  run  from  the 
depot  to  tho  business  centre  and  chief  parts  of 
the  city. 

From  Kansas  City  eastward  there  aro  seven 
trunk  lines,  and  each  of  those  lias  numerous 
variations  of  the  route,  with  diffeivut  forms  of 
ticket.  1.  There  is  tho  Chicago,  Burlington  <fe 
Quiucy.     2,  Tho  Chicago,  Rock  Island  &  Paci- 


iic.  :V  The  Missouri  Pacific  to  St.  Louis.  4 
and  5.  Tlio  Cliicago  ife  Alton  to  both  Chicago 
and  St.  Louis;  and  (>  and  7.  The  Walnish  to 
both  Chicago,  St.  Louis  and  Toledo.  For  fur- 
ther information  about  these  routes  see  pages 
9  and  10. 


THE  TRIPLE  PACIFIC  LINE. 

The  third  groat  trans-continental  railwav  was 
opened  in  January,  1882,  Iwtween  St..  Louis 
and  Now  Orleans  and  San  Francisco  vi'i  Dom- 
ing. It  is  composed  of  three  roatls  Iwitwcen 
tho  Missouri  riv  >r  and  Pacific  ocean,  viz. :  Tljo 
Southern  Pacific,  as  leased  totheC.mtnil  Paci- 
fic, t!;o  Texas  Pacific  and  the  St.  Louis  and 
Iron  Mountain  &  Southern  Railway,  aii<l  is 
eleven  miles  loncn^r  to  St.  Louis  than' the  ronto 
7^11  Topeka  and  Kansas  City.  Doming  is  tho 
only  point  between  St.  Louis'  and  San  Francisco 
at  which  cars  must  bo  ch.ngel.  Tho  routo 
from  Doming  east,  l)eing  south  o!  Ww  Atchison, 
Topeka  &  Sante  Fe,  avoids  tlio  Rooky  ]\Ioun- 
tains  and  passes  through  a  country  alinost  fi'oo 
from  snow.'  At  Doming,  close  connection  ia 
mado  with  tho  trains  of  tho  Southera  Pacific 
Railroa<l. 

The  Southern  Pacific  extends  westward  from 
Doming,  and  will  have  its  terminus  at  Now 
Orleans.  At  El  Paso  it  forms  a  junction  Avith 
tho  Texas  Pacific.  Going  e.istward,  tlion  over 
this  triple  route  from  Doming,  the  course  is 
south  of  east  to  Measilla  (Mess-Soe-Ya),  and 
then  east  of  south  to  El  Paso. 

MenlUa  is  on  tlie  Rio  Grande,  in  tho  Meailla 
valley,  a  valley  fertile  in  soil  and  deli.jhtfui  ia 
climate.  Across  tho  t\\:^t  is  tho  Atchison, 
Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  brancli  from  Rincon.  East 
of  the  river  are  the  Organ  mountains.  ^'orf 
Bliss  is  in  Texas  a  short  distance  north  of  El 
Pain. 

El  PfiHo  (the  Pass)  is  ov.  the  American  side 
of  the  Rio  Grande  river,  oppositti  El  V.Vio  del 
Norte  (the  north  pass)  in  Moxioo.  The  name 
arises  from  the  river  passing  through  a  gorge 
in  the  mountains,  wliich  has  bo  mi  the  chief 
thorouglifare  between  Moxi(;o  and  New  Mexico. 
Just  before  reaching  the  American  town,  tho 
monument  marking  the  boundary  lino  between 
Mexico  and  the  United  States  may  be  soon 
across  tho  river  on  tho  top  of  one  of  the  peaks 
in  the  low  mountain  range.  The  town  is  a  mix- 
ture of  Moxioan  and  American  civilization, 
with  the  latter  fast  ovorcoming  the  former. 

The  Mexican  C'ontral  R.  Il.,a  continuation 
of  the  A.  T.  &  S.  F.,  which  enters  El  Paso 
from  Rincon,  running  parallel  with  the  S.  P. 
for  some  disbimce  w(>st  of  the  town,  is  carrying 
American  ideas  toward  the  capital  of  our  sister 
republic,  and  bringing  back  all  the  wealth  the 
Americans  can  get.     Eastward  the  routo  ia  over 


372 


TME  FsiCIFW  FOiTEISF. 


OBAND   CAN<;H   of  tub  AKKAN8A8,    ON   DliNVEK   AND   UIO   OHANDE  ItALLWAY, 

COIiOUAOO. 


a  grazing  country   across  the  nortliem    por- 
tion of  the  preat  btato. 

At  Fort  Worth,  pasHongcrs  for  St.  Louia  liave 
a  choice  of  rontes.  One  is  v:a  tlie  Missouri 
Pacific  through  the  IncTiau  torritory  to  Fort 
Scott,  Kaunas,  ancl  Sodalia,  Mo.  For  this  route 
a  change  of  cars  must  bo  made  at  Fort  Worth 
to  the  through    PuUniun    sloepor  from    San 


Antonio  to  St.  Louis.  The  otho?  requires  no 
change  of  cnrs  after  leaving  Dcninfj  ancl  pas'jes 
Marshall,  Texas. 

Texarkatif,  in  the  southoast  comer  of 
Arkansas,  anl  Litile  Jiocl"vrii\\  its  I  lot  Springs. 
The  time  and  faro  by  thin  rcnito  ar(i  the  Rame  to 
St.  Louis  as  via  the  Atchison,  Topeka  and 
Santa  Fo  Bcilroad. 


"^, 


\ 


INDEX. 


I 


ires  no 
pas'ies 

•ncr  of 
'priKgs. 
name  to 
ika  and 


Paoi. 

Aotunbo,  800 

Aoton,  841 

AdniiM.  01 

Agiiew'i,  81H 

ATaiiieda,  81H 

Albiiquvrqu*.  SKI 

Aid*,  ai 

Aliilii,  897 

Alkiili,  47 

AliiiK,  818 

Alpha,  1011 

Alpiiio,  Ml 

AIM,  »7 

AlUinont,  311 

Alvaratlo,  81K 

AItUo,  3IH 
AmHilor  Branch  R.  R.,      a08 

Amen,  20 
American  ArtiiU   and 

Kxplorors,  32 

American  Fork,  140 
AnioricHu  Furk  Canon,  14:t-7 

Anuheim,  343 

AnuiyHla,  1S4 

Andonton,  825 

Anitrewi,  341 

Anita,  82n 

Antelope,  Neb.,  ftO 

Antelope,  Ual.,  2nH 

Antiooli,  331 

Arbnoklo,  317 

Arontle,  2nN 

Archer,  62 

Argentii,  202 

Army  Point,  204 

Arte«iiiu  Weill,  113 

A«pen,  1(10 

Atkins,  (!l 

Atmnxphere,  IM 

Atwater,  ,<)3S 

Avon,  334 

Atutrnlia,  327 

Auburn,  2M 

Aurora,  80 


Raden, 

Raggage, 

Banning, 

RantHi, 

Barton, 

Batavla, 

Rattle  Creek, 


820 

8 

315 

311 

4M 
>«4 
158 


Rattle  with  the  Indians 

at  Plinn  (^reek,  31-37 

Rattle  Mounuin,  2a'( 

Baxter,  OH 

Ray  of  San  Fraucisoo,26',  26H 
Kay  Point,  234 

ReHU>villu,  3:<ll 

Bear  Klvei  City,  \W 

Rrct  SiiKar,  201 

Belmont,  320 

Beuicla,  201 

Benton,  20 


Banion, 

Beowawe, 

Berenda, 

Berlin. 

Bernal, 

Bethany, 


Paoi. 

808,850 
202 
336 
817 
820 
834 


Big  Bonania  Mines,         23A 

Big  Horn,  01 

Big  Spring,  4M 

Big  Trees,  300 

lliggs,  825 
Bitter  Creek,                  05-l>7 

Bishop's,  lu:i 

Black  Butles,  07 
Black   Hills  of  Wyom- 
ing,                             88, 87 

Black  Roek,  14h 

Blue  Canon,  247 

Blue  Creek,  IRl 

BiNsa  238 

BtKlega  X  Hoatls,  321 

Bonneville,  180 

Rorden,  830 

Roulder,  73 

Rovino,  1!N) 

Bowie,  :I00 
Itox  Springs,               107,  lUO 

Boseman,  158 

Brady  Island,  .so 

Brentwood,  834 

Bridgur,  105 

Brlgham,  18U 

Brighton,  80K 

Bronco,  iaH 

Brooklyn,  814 
Brown's,  C.  P.  R.  R..  213 
Brown's,  V.  ti  T.  U.  R.,    2S1 

Brown'M  Hole,  100 

Brownson,  50 

Brule,  48 

Bryan,  102 

Budda,  83 

BulTalo<   ,  63 

Butralo  (Iriu-),  47 

Buffalo  lUjbei,  27 

Buckevi  825 

Bufoni,  80 

Bullion,  107 
Bullwli»i!V.u«,                66,  57 

Burlinya'ue,  307 

Burns,  111 

Ru8hn>dl,  «t 

Byron,  831 

Cabazon,  846 

Cachise,  850 

Cactus,  348 

Caliente,  8.'<H 
California  PaclBc  11.  R..   314 

(/aliMtogti,  310 

Cinncron,  3.'t0 

Cann,  825 

Caiiilelaria,  222 

Cape  Horn,  262 


Cape  Horn  Mills, 

Carbon, 

Carbondale, 

Carlln, 

Oarnailero, 

Carriages, 


Paor. 

262 
01 

.107 
100 
3.'12 


CarscmClty,  221,222 

Carsmi  &  Colorailii  R.R.,  222 
Carter,  105 

Carter  Hills  and  Mud 

Volcano,  IflR 

Casa  Urande,  352 

Cascade,  244 

Castle.  300 

Castrovllle,  3:i:i 

Cedar,  loo 

Centt-rvllle,  131 

Central  City,  20 

Central  Paciflc  R.  R.,       177 
Ceres,  Turlock,  Cressey, 

&  Atwater,  .1.11 

Cerritos,  ."M;! 

Chapman,  20 

Chapiiell,  67 

Cheyenne  Div.  U.  P.  11.R.,  73 
Chico,  325 

Chimney  Rock,  43 

Chinese  in  San  Fran- 
cisco, 270 
China  Itanch,  247 
Church  Buttes,  103 
Chualar,  xa 
Cicero,  808 
Cisco,  245 
Clark,  20 
Clear  Creek,  825 
Clear  Creek  Canon,  7U 
Climate  of  Cali- 
fornia, 277-8,  293-7 
Clipper  Oap,  268 
Cloud  KITeots,  68 
Cloverdale,  .<;'2:t 
Cluro.  109, 201 
Coalville,  118 
Coin,  205 
Colfax,  253 
Col  ma,  820 
Colorado  PIt.  V.  P.  R.  R.,  73 
Colorado  •! unci  Ion,  80 
Colorado  Plains,  00 
Colorado  Sieani  Naviga- 
tion Co.,  340 
Col  ton,  67,345 
Columbia  River,  32(1 
Columbus,  27 
Oompton,  843 
Coouer's  Lake,  80 
Cordelia,  814 
Corlnne,  180,  IKI 
Cornwall,  334 
CottiinwiKxl,  825 
Cottonwood  Falls,  867 
Covote,  Cal.,  831 
Coyote,  Neb.,                      38 


CoMd,  III 

Creston,  Cal.,  M4 

Croston,  Wy.,  i| 

Cressev,  MS 

CroNS  Creek,  818 

CiKmrnonga,  345 
(^uriositiuH  of  History,        12 

Curtis,  310 

Dale  Creek  Bridge  81 

l»ana,  91 

Davisville  SSI 

hocoto,  313 

l><-ep  Wells,  100 

iHier  I^Hlge  Springs,  158 

Dexth,  188 

Itelano,  88T 

I>elavan,  817 

Deming,  302, :«« 

Itenver,  75 

l>env»r  Junction,  48 
l>unv«r  &  Itio  (irandn 

U.  R..  75 

Desert,  21 1 

lievil's    Gate     on  the 

Sweetwater,  108 
Oevil'i    Uato,     Weber 

Canon,  IM 

Dcvil-H  Slide,  m 

Itaxter,  tr 

iMx.  as 

IHxon,  SSI 

I>onahue,  ilS 

I>cM  Palmos,  848 

Dougherty's  Mill,  318 

Downey,  313 

Dragon  Summit,  350 

Draperville,  130,140 
Driving  the  last  Spike, 

180-184 

Duncan,  20 

Duncan's  Mills,  321 

Durham,  320 

Dutch  Flat,  240 

Early  Times.  84-86 
Kafturn  Trunk  Lines,      9-11 

Kcho,  117 

Koho  Canon,  113,114 

Koiinoniy,  282 

Kdeii  Vale.  831 

KdHon,  SB 

Kgbert.  61 

Elkhorn,  II 

KIko,  IM 

Elm  Creek,  M 

Kills,  t\\ 

KIk  drove,  SOB 

Klllnwood.  887 

KImira,  204 

Kl  Paso.  .T71,  372 

Emerald  Ray,  231, 2.-12 

Emigrant  Oap,  M7 


i 


1 


. 


i 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


m 
1^ — 

''  m 


IIM   ll|||^ 

1.8 


U    IIII1I.6 


'W*:^ 


°w 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


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iV 


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:\ 


\ 


<? 


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^v 


>^ 


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INDEX. 


"* 

Paor. 

Paof. 

Paor. 

Paor. 

Emporia, 

367 

Hawthorne, 

*'«« 

LordKhurgb, 

362 

Mountain  View,                  3.10 

Essex. 
Estes  Park, 

238 

Hayward'b, 

313 

Lorenzo, 

313 

Mowry's                                 318 

73,79 

Head  Waters  of  the  .Sao- 

Los  Angeles, 

342 

Murphy's,                            33U 

Eatrella, 

3.'i2 

ranieuto  &  Mi .  ssliastH. 

LuM  Angeles  and  Inde- 

Eureka, 

199 

303,  xtn 

|icnilenc!e  R.  It., 

.•M2 

Nadenn.                               S40 

Eureka  &  Palisade  R.n.,  197 

HealdsburK. 

Hen  Ith  ami  Pleannre 

323 

Los  Angeles  &,  San  Die- 

haniu6, Curious,                218 

Kvniisiuu, 

109,110 

Re- 

go  R.  R., 

3«3 

Napa,                                 316 

Kwing. 

324 

sorts  of  Cfllifuriiiu, 

297 

Los  Gatog, 

318 

Napa  Valley,                     310 

KxcutHlons,  San  Fran- 

Helena  City, 

liV< 

l.oveliidy'D, 

318 

Natchez,                              1 « 

■ciscu. 

274-277 

Hillsdale, 

*;i 

Lovelock's, 

'^12 

Nelson                                 .326 

Hints  to  Invalids, 

293 

Liicin, 

190 

Nephl.                                141 

Fairfax, 

.<?20 

Hollister, 

332 

Lumlier  and    Trees  of 

Nevadii    Central   Rail- 

F»ir«elii, 

261 

Honcut,    " 

324 

the  Lake  Region, 

233 

way,                          :^03,  206 

Fair  OakM. 

330 

Hooker, 

Z'a 

Nevada  City,               '263,  265 

Kariniugton, 

131 

Hot  Springs, 

214 

Macy, 

317 

Nevada  County  Narrow 

Felloii, 

318 

Hot  Springs,Ut»h,  127. 133-34 

Madera, 

330 

OiiiiKe  It,  It.,                    2.''>3 

Fillmore, 

94 

Hotel  Charges 

K 

Madrone, 

331 

ICevada  Fluine,                   2.l.i 

Florence,  Cal., 

»t3 

Howard's, 

321 

Maiden's  Grave, 

201 

Newark.                               318 

Florence,  Kau., 

367 

Howell, 

89 

Mammoth  Tank,         316 

,348 

NewciiHtle.                           2.'i7 

Florin, 

308 

Humboldt, 

209 

Manltou  Springs, 
Mammoth  White  Moun- 

70 

New  England  Mills,          2.'>6 

Flowing  Wells, 

346 

HuttiUinsou, 

367 

Newhall,                              341 

Flume,  Nev., 

236 

tain  Hot  Springs,     163-166 

New  Mexicn,                        361 

Fowler, 

336 

Idaho  Territory, 

189 

Mark  West, 

323 

New  I'leasure   Resorts 

Fort  McPherson, 

39 

Independence, 

191 

Maricopa, 

352 

in  Colorado,                       73 

Fort  Samieis, 

83 

Independence  Rook, 

108 

Mars  ton, 

112 

Newspapers,                        136 

r<«rt  Steele 

92,93 

Indian  Burial  Tree, 

87 

Martlnei, 

334 

NewUm,                               3U7 

Franklin, 

108 

Indians, 

90,361 

Marysville, 
Matlin, 

324 

Nichols,                                 4T 

Franktown, 

-221 

Indio, 

346 

IW) 

Niles,                                   S4a 

Freestone, 

32 1 

Invalids,  Hints  to,  464,  293-7 

Maxwell, 

39 

Nord,                                   8i» 

Fremont, 

2.1 

lone  City, 

308 

Maxwell, 

317 

Norman,                            317 

Fresno, 

336 

Iron  Point, 

206 

Maytteld, 

330 

North  Bend,                         26 

Frink's  Spring, 

:t4(-> 

McAvoy, 

.T34 

Norm   Fork    of    Echo 

Vc  -on. 

3-23 

Jacks'^n, 

300 

McConuell's, 

308 

Canon.                       116,  117 

.Josselyn, 

34 

Meals,                          7, 

8,11 

North  Pacific  Coast  R.R..  319 

Gait, 

308 

Juab, 

141 

Medicine  Bow, 

90 

North  IMatto.                   41.  43 

Gannett, 

39 

Julesharg, 

48-50 

Medicine  Bow  Range, 

88 

Northern  Railwny,             317 

Gambling, 

289 

Junciiou  ^City),  Utah.      139 

Melrose, 

313 

Notes  to  TouristH,                76 

Garden  of  the  Gods 

•  7 

Menlo  Park, 

3:10 

Gardening,  Irrigati 

on,      137 

Kammas  City, 

119 

Merced, 

KW 

Oasis  in  the  Desert,          21() 

Garden  Pass, 

199 

Kaysville. 

131 

Mercer, 

22 

Oak  (Jrove,                            329 

Geysers,  Cal., 

3(V4 

Kearney  Junction, 

:« 

Merritt'B, 

316 

oak  Knoll,                          316 

OeyBerrille, 

323 

Keone, 

.339 

MescRl 

;<68 

Oakland,                203-207, 314 

Geyser     Basins, 
Hole  River, 

Fira 

Kelton, 

180 

Meseilla, 

371 

Ochoa,                                    369 

169 

Kingximry, 
Knight's  lAndlng, 

33(i 

Mesquite, 

348 

C'Fallon's,                           47 

Georgetown. 

79 

316 

Meiumwa, 

19 

Ogalalla,                         8T,  47 

GiHUt'sClub, 

KNt 

Middle  Park, 

79 

Ogden,                                  1S4 

Gibbon, 

33 

I^ake, 

184 

Midway, 

.111 

Ogden  Canon,  126 
Old  Overland  Route,         308 

Gila  Bend, 

aw 

Lake  County, 

;mi.5 

Milbrae, 

329 

Gila  City, 

349 

Lake  Point, 

148 

Minis, 

109 

Olenia,                                 'ill 

Gilbert's  Peak, 

108 

Lake  Talioe, 

230,  231 

Mines  of  Virginia  Clt\. 
Millstone  Point,          147 

'224 

Omaha,                                16 

Gilmore, 

20 

Lake  Utah, 

147 

,148 

Onibey,                               100 

Gilroy, 

331 

Lake  View, 

■221 

Mill  City. 

•J»9 

Opium  Smoking,               291 

GIrard, 

339 

Lakevllle, 

:«22 

Mill  Station, 

221 

Urange,                                344 

Glenwood, 

318 

Laniy, 

3ftJ 

MiUaril, 

20 

Oreana,                              212 

Gloster, 

34n 

Lancaster, 

340 

Mineral, 

199 

Oregon,                                326 

Golconda, 

206 

Lang. 

341 

Mineral  Springs,  Cal., 

.•tiifl 

Oregon  Division   C.  P. 

Gold  Hill, 

222 

I^ramie, 

83 

Mining, 

1'29 

R.  R.,                                324 

Gold  Rum, 

2fil 

Laramie  Peak, 

K6 

Minturn, 

316 

Orovllle,                             8!<4 

Gonsales, 

333 

Laramie  Plains, 

82 

Mirage, 

213 

Osave  City,                         86T 

Gosheu, 

336 

Las  Animas, 

.367 

Miser. 

89 

Or>ino,                                 IM 

Grand  Canon    of 

the 

Las  Vegas, 

36«i 

Modesto, 

.'»6 

Otego,  101 
Outittting,                   1S9, 161 

Arkansns, 

77 

Latham, 

96 

Mohawk  Summit, 

.160 

Grand  Island, 

;jo 

Ijtthrop, 

310 

Molave 
Mokelumne  Hill, 

310 

Otto.                                       80 

Granger, 
Granite  Canon, 

1(K< 

Lawrence's, 

:»o 

309 

Overland  Pony  Express,  43-16 

80 

Lehi, 

140 

M  <)een. 

196 

Overton,                              84 

Granite  Point, 

2i:« 

Lerdo, 

XVI 

Monell, 

96 

Oxford,                                 158 

Grant's, 

:{23 

Lerny, 

Life  in  Colorado, 

106 

Montana,  Wonders  of. 

167 

Grass  Valley, 

263 

T7,  79 

Monte. 

:i4t 

Paclfio  Transfer  Co,            8 

Gray's  I'eak, 

77 

Lincoln, 

•£li 

Montell-", 

191 

Pauosa  Springs,  -  808 
I'aTi.ted  Hock,                     360 

Great  Plains  St,  Desert,     2)4 

Lisbon, 

Little  Cottonwood, 

362 

Monterey,                    3'HI 

,  ;«i7 

Greeley, 

73,  7.1 

139 

Moor's. 

192 

Ph  aro,  332 
Pa  ace  Butte,                      176 

Green  River, 

98-101 

Litton  Springs, 

3*^ 

Monument, 

IWi 

GrennviUe, 

ttl 

Livennore, 

312 

Moi  rano. 

:W5 

I'Hlacv  Car  Life,                    6 

Grldley, 

320 

Loekwood. 

30 

Mt.  HIaukmore,          Vi3 

,174 

l-alisadu,                              107 

Ixxlge  Pole, 
Lod", 

67 

Mt.  Eden, 

318 

I'Hmpa.                                Sn 

Hailstornib. 

nt 

309 

Mt.  Shasta,                    303, 320 

Pantano,                            >IK 

Half  Way  House, 

140 

Logan, 

168 

Mt  Tanialpals, 

3'20 

papago,                    an 

Papllion,                             80 

Hallefik. 

198 

Logaudhle, 

an 

Mound  City, 

346 

Hallville, 

97 

Lonioand  Lire  Oak, 

326 

Mound  House, 

2*22 

Parley's  Park,                  120 

Hampton, 
Hanging  Rock, 

106 

Long's  Peak, 

62 

Mountains, 

71 

Payson,  141 
Peko,                                    194 

116 

Longmont, 
Lookout, 

73 

Mountain  of  the  Holy 

Harney. 

ai 

89 

Cross. 

79 

Peoa,                                    IIH 

Harrington', 

?17 

Loray, 

191 

Mountain  on  Fire, 

111 

Peurhyn,                            W 

INDEX. 


\ 


21» 

329 

310 
7,314 

3S9 
47 
37,47 
124 
12ti 
SUM 
3.'! 
15 
10<> 
291 
344 
212 
32C 

324 
324 
367 

ini 

59, 101 
KU 
43-4R 
M 
168 


3no 
aau 
1TB 

n 

m 
m 
m 
an 

» 
iw 

in 


Pequop, 

Percy, 

Perry'ii, 

Pete  won, 

Plcacho, 

Piedmont, 

I'Ike'a  Pewk, 

Pine  UluttH, 

P'.no, 

Pinole, 

Piute, 

Placer  Mining, 

Plain8burg, 

PleagHnton 

Pleasant  Urove, 

Plum  Creek, 

Point  of  Kocka, 

Pomona, 

Port  Costa, 

Posa, 

Potter, 

Powder  River  Coun 

Praoticnl  HiuU, 

Prairie  Dogs, 

Prairie  Fires, 

Proctor's, 

I'romonlory, 

Prosser  Creek, 

Provo, 

Pueiite, 

Puget  Sound, 

Purisslmu, 

Pyramid, 

Pyramid  Lake, 


Paof. 

191 

91 

331 

123 

360 

106,106 

22 

61 

2S7 

26S 

2(15 

249,  251 

336 

312 

140 

34 

97 

345 

264 

337 

.59 

80 

7 

53 
22 
239 
181 
238 
140 
344 
326 
329 
;«i2 
215 


try, 


Quarry,  181 

Railroad  Pass,  360 

Rainitows,  71 

Raspberry,  209 

Ravenna,  311 

Rawlins,  93,  !>4 

Reed's,  :i24 

Red  Blutr,  :i26 

Red  Buttes,  K3 

Redding,  325 

Red  Desert,  95 

Red  Kock,  356 

Reiluotion  of  Ores,     225,  228 
Re«lwood  City,  329 

Reno,  219,  238 

Representative  Men  uf 

California,  262 

Representative  Men  of 

the  U.  P.  R.  n.,  24 

Representative  Mormons,  ISO 
Resources  of  Southern 

Utah,  143 

Results  of  the  opening 

of  the  Black  Hills,     60,70 
Ride  iu  the  Flume,  236 

Ripon,  335 

Rock  Creek,  89 

Rockiin,  257 

Rock  Springs,  08 

Rocks  of  Weber  Canon,    122 
Rogers,  26 

Rosooe,  47 

Rose  Creek,  209 

RoMvllle  Junction,  257 

Routes  to  the  Katlonal 

Park,  108,  ino 

Rowlands,  231 

Rnzel,  184 

Ruins  of  Casa  Orande, 

352->%'US 
Russell's.  318 

Bye  Patch,  211 


Salida, 

Salinas, 

Salt.].ake  City, 

Salt  Wells, 

Salvia, 

Sail  Bruno, 

Sand  Creek, 

San  Diego, 

Sandy, 

San  Fernando, 


Pao>'. 

■xa 

131-139 
97 
218 
329 
340 
344 
139 
341 
San  Fernando  Tunnel,      341 
San  Francisco,  208-274 

San  Francisco  &  North 

Pacific  R.  R.,  322 

San  (iabriel.  Mi 

San  Gorgonio,  345 

San  Joaquin  Bridge,         311 
San  Joaquin  Valley,  334 

San  Jose,  31l<,  330,  331 

San  Leandro,  313 

San  Marclal,  363 

San  Mateo,  329 

San  Pablo,  265 

San  Rafael,  320 

San  Simon,  360 

Santa  Ana,  344 

Santaquin,  141 

Santa  Clara,  318,  330 

Santa  Cruz,  319, 332 

San  Miguel,  329 

Santa  Monica,  342 

San  Quentin,  319 

Santa  Rosa,  322 

Sargent's,  332 

Savanna,  344 

Scientific  Explorations,    104 
Schuyler,  2U 

Seaside  Resorts,  306 

Seco,  185 

Secret  Town,  252 

Senlhiel,  350 

Separation,  94 

Sepulveda,  342 

Sesina,  325 

Seven  Palms,  »ili 

Shady  Run.  247 

Sheep  Raising,  84 

Shoshone  Lake  Geysers, 

176, 176 
Shelton, 
Sheritlan, 
Sherman, 

Shooting  Prairie  Hens, 
Shoshone, 
Shoshone  Falls, 


31 

324 

XI 

25 

2<r2 

187 

Shoshone  Indian  Village,  197 

67 

29 

91 


Sidney, 
Silver  Creek, 
Simpson, 

Sinks  of  the  Great  Ne- 
vada Basin,  228 
Six  Companies.  2t*l 
Skillful  Cookery,  253 
Skull  Rocks,  K 
Sleeping  Car  Expenses,  II 
Snow  Sheds,  241 
Snow  Storm  at  Truckee,  24(» 
Sobrante,  269 
Socorro,  363 
Smia  SprlngK,  107 
Soda  Springs  Station,  244 
Soqucl,  332 
South  Pacific  Coast  R.  R.,  318 
Southern  Paciflo  Over- 
land Route,  334 
Southern  I'uclflo  Rail- 
road Co.,  328 


Paor. 
Southern  Pacific  It.  R. 

of  Arizona,  349 

Soledad,  333 

Solon,  !I4 

Soto,  3:;6 

Spadra,  346 

Spanish  Fork,  141 

Sporting,  110, 140 

Stanwix,  350 

State  Capitol.  Cal.,     260,  261 
Steamboat  Springs,  221 

Stern's  Pass, 
Stevenson, 
St.  Helena, 
Stock  Statistics, 
Stockton, 
Stockton  ACopperopolis' 

R.  R, 
Stone  House, 
Storms, 

Successful  Farming, 
Suisun  City, 
Summit,  199,  242,  244 

Summit  Siding,  20 

Summit  Springs,  Wy., 
Summit  Valley, 
Sumner, 
Sunol, 
Sunset  Scene  on    Mt. 

Washburne, 
Sutter  Greek, 
Swan  I.ake. 
Sweetwater, 
Sycamore, 


34 
316 
84 
309,  310 

310 

205 

253 

31 

264 


60 
244 
337 
312 

68 
309 
158 
101 
336 


Table  Rock,  96 

Tahoc  City,  232 

Tamarack,  246 

Taylorville,  320 

Tecoma,  Nev.,  190 

Tehachapi  Pass,  338 

1'ehachapi  Summit,  339 

Tehama,  325 

Tennant's,  331 

Terrace,  190 

'J'exas  Hill,  360 

Thayer,  97 

Thompson's,  316 

Thousand  Mile  Tree,  122 

Thunder  Storm,  70 

Tie  Siding,  82 

Tipton,  Wy.,  86 

Tipton,  Cal.,  337 

Toano,  191 

Tocoloma,  3*20 

Tomales,  321 
Tongue  River  Country,  m 
Topeka,                         368-371 

Tormey,  266 

'I'ortuga,  346 
Tower  Creek  and  Falls,    J66 

Tracy,  Neb.,  61 
Tracy  Junction.Cal.,  311,  334 

Tree  Planting,  Neb.,  31 

Tremont,  264 

Tres  Pinos,  332 

Triple  Pactfln  Line,  371 

Truckee,  239 

Tucson,  366 

Tulare,  337 

Tulasco,  193 

Tule,  206 

Turlook,  336 

Two  Mile,  Cal.,  214 


rint^h, 

Uiuttth  Mouutaini, 


124 


78, 103,  108 


Pa  OK. 


Upper  Geyser  Basin.  170 

Up|ier  Weber  Valley,  118 

Utah,  127 

Utah  Central  R.  R..  120 
Utah  Northern  Branch 

U.  P.  Railway,  157 

Utah  Southern  R.  R.,  138 

Utah  Western  R.  R.,  147 

Vaca  Valley  and  Clear 

Lake  R.  R.,  261 

Vallejo  Junction,  265 

Valona,  266 

Valley  of  the  Chugwater,   90 
Valley  Fore*  321 

Valley  SUtion,  21 

Verdi,  238 

VeU  Pass,  380 

Vigilance  Committee  In- 
cident, 211 
Virginia  Citv,  168,  223-224 
Virginia  &  Truekee  R.  R.,  221 
Vista  218 
Vina,                                  325 


Wadsworth,  214, 216 

Wahsatch,  III 

Walcott, 

Walters, 

Warm  Springs, 

Warren, 

Washakie, 

Washoe  City, 

Waterloo, 

Watsonville, 

Watsouville  Landing, 

Weber, 


93 

ISS 
30 

96 
221 

21 

332 

333 

123 

113, 114 


Weber  Canon, 

Weber  Quarry,  '  123 
Weir,  formerly  Jnlesbnrg,  48 

Wells,  192, 193 

West  San  Leandro,  318 

West  San  Lorenio,  318 

White  Plaint,  213 

Whitewater,  346 

Whitney's,  324 

Wheatlanil,  3SH 

Wilcox,  80 

Wilkins,  il8 

Willard'a  197 

Williams,  317 

Willows,  317 

Willow  Island,  38 

Wilmington,  Si3 
Wilmington  Division  S. 

P.  R.  R.,  343 

Windsor,  3*23 
Windmills,  U.  P.  R.  R.,     86 

Windmills.  Cal.,  308 
Wind  River  Mountains,      86 

Winnemucca,  206-20U 

Woodland,  318 

Wood  River.  31 

Wood's  Cross,  131 

Wright's,  818 

Wyoming,  88 

Tank's,  S31 

Yellowstone  Ijtke,  168-160 

Yellowstone,  161-163 

York,  III 

Yosemite  Valley,  29f  3(» 

Vountvillo,  316 

Yuba,  3'.:4 

Yuma,  348 


il     - 


^ 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTKATIONS. 


Paok. 

Agnea  Park,  69 

American  Fork  Canon,  142 
Aacendlne  the  Olaoiera 

of  Mt.  Hayden,  160 

Bank  of  California,  270 
Bird's  Eye  View  of  San 

Francisco,  266 

Big  Trees  of  California,  29t 

Bloomer  Cut,  257 
Bnllwr  lacker  of  the 

Plains,  66 

Butfalo  Hunting,  46 

Busted,  22 

Castle  Rook,  98 

Oape  Horn,  255 

Cave  Dwellinos,  355 

Cliimney  Kock.  43 

Chinese  Temple,  286 
Church  ButtesonBlaok's 

Fork,  103 
The  Clitfs  of  Eoho  Canon,  121 
Cliff  House,  3M 
Cliff  Dwellings,  353 
Coyotes,  60 
Crossing  the  Platte,  42 
Dale  Creek  Bridge,  82 
DeTil's  Slide,  124 
Devil's  Qate  on  the  Sweet- 
water, 109 
Devil's  Tower,  71 
Deer  Kace  with  Train, 

ou  the  U.  P.  U.  K.,  92 

Dome  of  the  Continent,  64 

Donner  Lake,  243 
Early  Morning  Scene  on 

the  Laramie  Plains,  85 
Eminent  Am.  Explorers 

and  Artists,  32 
Entering  Humboldt  Can- 
on, 201 
Oallery  in  Snow  Sheds, 

C,  P.  R.  It.,  239 
Gateway  to  the  Oarden 

of  the  Oods,  74 
Gardens  and  Groves  of 

California,  259 
Oard«n  of  the  Oods,  320 
Geysers  of  the  Yellow- 
stone, 160 
Giant's  Club,  101 
Giant's  Tea  Pot,  101 
Giant's  Gap,  2C0 
Good  Bye,  20 
Grand  Canon  of  the  Ar- 

kansM,  300 
Grand  Canon  of  Arkan- 
sas, 372 


Paob. 
Grand  Duke  Alexis  Kill- 
ing his  flrst  BnlTalo,  39 
Great  11.  U.  Wedding,  183 
Hoodlums,  272 
Hot  Springs,  366 
Hotel  Del  Monte  and 
Grounds  at  Monterey, 
Cal.,  307 
Hunting  in  the  Rocky 

Mountains,  86 
Hunting  Prairie  Hens,  26 
Indian  Tent  Scene,  28 
Indian  Attack  ou  an  Over- 
land Stage,  49 
Indian  Burial  Tree,  87 
Indian  Costumes,  51 
Independence  Kock,  108 
Interior  of  Mormon  Tab- 
ernacle, 136 
Interior  of  Snow  Sheds, 

U.  P.  R  R.,  IOC 
Interior     of     Clilnese 

'Ilieatre,  290 
Interior  of  Office  of  Mor- 
mon President,  134 
Lake  Lai;   or   Moore's 

I>ake,  111 

Lake  Tahoe,  229 
Lake  Tahoe,  (Emerald 

Bay^)  Frontispiece 

I^ke  Esther,  227 

Ijike  Angeline,  244 
Lightning  Scene  on  the 

Prairies,  83 

Lion's  Head  Rock,  148 

I/Mjating  the  Line,  362 
Long's  Peak,  from  Estes 

Park,  62 
Lower  Falls  of  the  Yel- 
lowstone, 167 
Medicine  Bow  Mountains,  88 
A  Mining  Camp  in  Ari- 

sona,  310 

Mary's  Lake,  24U 

Monuiuent  Ro^-.k,  120 
Monument  Point  from 

Salt  Lake,  185 
Mountain  of  the  Holy 

Cross,  77 
Mountain  Scene  in  the 

Ruby  Range,  195 

Mt.  Blackmore,  173 
M's.  Hayden  and  Moran,  Hit 
N  •'•rows of  Ogden Canon,  l;!7 

New  Mormon  Timp'e,  133 
...            -j^|. 


New  Residence  of  Urig- 
ham  Young, 


137 


Paob 

Kight  Scene,  21 
Offices  and  Family  Resi- 
dence    of      Brigham 
Young,  133 
Old  Pony  Express  Station,  44 
Old  Mill.    .  147 
Overland  Pony  Kxpress 
Pursued  by  Highway- 
men, 44 
Pagosa  Springs,  3C8 
Palace  Car  Life,  2 
Palace  Butte,  174 
Palisades  on  the  Hum- 
boldt, 200 
Pawnee  Chief  in  Full 

Dress,  r)2 
Pedros  Pintados,  or  Painted 

Rocks,  Arizona,  .351 

Petrified  Fish  Cut,  lUO 
Pony  Express  Saluting 

the  Telegraph,  45 

Prairie  Dog  City,  64 

President,  131 

Progress,  6 
Public  Buildings  of  San 

Francisco,  27 1 

Pulpit  Rock,  117 

Pulpit  Kock  and  VMlley,  IIH 

Pyramid  Lake,  ;  16 

K.  K.  Station,  -Mi 
Representative  Men  on 

U.  P.  R.  R..  24 
Representative  Mormons,  ISO 
Representative  Men  of 

California,  2R3 

Rocks  near  Echo  City  112 
Rock  Scenes  near  Echo 

City,  116 
Rock  Cut,  107 
Salt  Lake  from  Monu- 
ment Point.  185 
Salt  I>ake  City  and  Wah- 

satch  Mountains,  LtO 

San  Francisco  Mint,  270 
Scenes  in  the  Harbor  of 

San  Francisco  273 
Scenes  in  the  Yellow- 
stone I'ark,  172 
Secret  Town,  252 
Scenes  in  the  Black  Hills,  67 
Scenes  in  Weber  Canon,  125 
Scenes  across  tlie  Sierras,  248 
Scene  at  Moutli  of  Echo 

Canon,  110 
Scenes  in  the  Humboldt 

Desert,  1!)8 

Scenery  of  the  Sierras,  245 


Paob. 
Scene  In  Park  and  Pleas- 
ure Grounds    at  Dak 
Knoll,    Napa  Valley, 
ChI.,  315 

Scenes  on  the  Truokee 

River,  217 

Scenes  in  Alley,  Chinese 

Quarters,  280 

Scenes  on  Green  River,  06 
Scenes  in  Omaha,  16 

Scenes  in  American  Fork 

Canon,  '  144 

Scenes  across  the  Sierras,  246 
Scenes  in  Yosumite  Val- 
ley, 296 
Sentinel  Rock,  115 
Shoshone  Falls,  186 
Shoshone  Indian  Village,  180 
Silver  Palace  Car,  C.  P. 

R  R.,  179 

Skull  Rocks,  81 

Snow  Sheds  across  the 

Sierras,  238 

Snow  Slide  Mountains,  139 
Stone  Monument,  369 

Street  Scene  in  Virginia 

City,  223 

Summits  of  the  Sierras,  '^.35 
Teooalli  Mountains,  365 

The  Thousand    Wells, 

Arizona,  347 

Thousand  Mile  Tree,  l'.>3 
••'unnel  No.  li,  241 

ine  Twin  Sisters,  99 

Two  Bits  to  see  the  Pap- 

poose,  208 

The  Uintah  Mountains,  79 
Ute  Squaw  and  Pappoose,  181 
Vernal  Falls,  296 

View  Ixmking  down  the 

Shoshone  Falls,  189 

View  on  the  Platte,  93 

View  of  Prescott,  301 

View  of  Salt  Lake  City,  135 
View  of  Great  Salt  Lake,  153 
Vision  of  the  Golden 

Country,  266 

Yellowstone  Lake,  1C9 

West  Bank  Green  River,  100 
Wilhelmina  Pass,  128 

William's  Canon,  72 

Winnemucca,  207 

Winter  Forest  Scene  in 

the  .Sierra  Nevadns,       220 
Woodward's     Gardens, 
San  Francisco,  276 


I  ami 

ftrulieiil 
llOIHHf 

heidtlir 
know  I 
work,  1 
than  rij 


lehel 


XIST   THE   "WOiaiiD. 

THE   MOST   BEAUTIFUL   BOOK   OF   WESTERN   SCENERY 

EVES  R    issue:  r>. 


The  Most  Complete,  Accurate  and  Reliable  Trans' 
Continental  Guide  Ever  Known, 

Officially  Endorsed  by  the  Pacific  R.  R.  Companies. 


TESTIMOISri^LS. 


Genebal  Ticket  Offick  Union  Pacific  B.  R.  I 

UiiLilia,  Nub.  I 

Hiiving  exaniliieil  the  pruof-sheeUt  ami  illustrations  of 
your  new  •'  Pacilic  I'lmrint,  and  (liUile  n/  Tnivel  j.cmsM  the 
C'oHtitient,"  WH  take  pie  tsure  in  sayin);  llmt  the  Ixiok  con- 
veys more  dutailutl  irit'ormatioii  o(  the  Union  and  Central 
Pivuilic  It.  It  U'.io.  and  the  Country  tl: .  3ugli  whluh  it  poHses, 
than  any  pulilioiitionofHiniilar character  we  havo ever  seen. 
Totliostt  inteniling  to  aetlle,  the  miner,  tlio  tourist,  i he 
health  and  pleasure  seeker,  it  is  an  nspeuiHily  valuable  and 
reliulili^  guide.  Hoping  it  will  tind  the  ready  sale  it  merits, 
we  are  yuura  trtilv. 

THOS.  L.  KHIBALL,  G.  P.  and  T.  Agent 

Land  Depahtmext  Union  Pacific  R.  R.  Co.  I 
Omaha,  Nul>.  I 

T  have  exinilned  the  proipectiii*  and  proof-sheets  of  your 
"  Pai-itic  TourlM."  and  <-an  sltte  witliout  hesilatiun  that  the 
work  inm'ts  my  unrpi  ditied  ap  rov  il.  Your  book  will  suit- 
|ily  a  loiiit  felt  want  for  a  complete  ami  riiliablo  Ouiile  to 
tho'ie  tir>sHln){  the  Continent.  I  am  gUd  you  have  uiider- 
tikkeii  such  a  work;  very  few  are  wi  well  '<iualilied  by  per- 
•onal  i-xpeii'-nce  and  observation  of  this  great  region,  to 
know  its  attractions  and  rosources.aiid  able  to  present  them 
in  a  clear  and  coucLne  mann>T.  Your  work  has  my  ni'St 
hearty  connneiidaiioii,  an<i  I  am  confident  y>>u  will  have 
the  ttbinid  mt  success  your  euterpri''e  ami  efTo'rts  deserve. 
Yours  truly,  O.  F.  DAVlo,  Land  Com. 

Pullman  Pacific  Cah  Co.  1 

Onialin,  Neb.  f 

I  am  slad  to  know  that  you  have  decided  to  publish  ncom- 

firuhen.sive  and  complete  work  for  the  guidance  of  the 
housands  who  vi-lt  our  Western  country  in  pursuit  of 
health  and  plea:«iire,  and  I  will  say  in  all  8lnc«>rity  that  I 
know  of  no  pernon  more  competent  than  yourself  for  this 
work,  and  I  hope  your  fondest  expectations  will  be  mora 
thou  reolizeil. 

Youw  truly,  L.  M.  BENNETf,  Supt 

Central  Pacific  R.  R.  I 
San  FranciiH^o,  t'al.  i 

We  take  pl.'usnre  In  noticing 
yonr  «(Tort!i  in  thn  pnhllcatlon  of  a  new  and  iinprove<l  Guide 
and  Hand  BiHik  for  the  use  of  reitidiir  passengors  atul  tour- 
ists traveling  over  the  Ov<>rliind  or  Pitrifti;  U  U.  Line,  and 
topl«i;e!4  of  resort.  Interest  or  cm lo-ltv  In  California  and 
Nevad  i.  Pioni  proof*  of  your  work  wldrh  we  have  exam- 
ined, we  Judite  ihatiho  sntUH,  when  comideie.  will  prove 
■atisfactnry  to  tlie  public,  and  we  trust  ihat  it  will  meet  with 
ready  sole.  Very  r«8pertfnllv, 

T.  H.  GUOD.viA)f.  O.  P.  A-  andT*  A- 
I  cheerfully  endorse  the  above, 

A.  N.  TOWNS,  Oen'l  Sunt. 


Union  Paciftc  R  R.  Co.,  thiff  Kvoineeii'b  Office,  J 

:;3  Niissau  street,  Nnw  York.  | 

I   am    exceedingly  well 

pleased  with  The  rncific  Tourist;  the  illiiHiralions  areof 

remarkable  l>eauty,  and  the  descriptions  of  scenery  are 

wry  interesting. 

It  is  in  all  respects  the  best  volume  yet  produced,  relat- 
ing to  Travel  and  Scenery  of  the  Far  West;  and  of  the 
Pacilic  Itiillroad,  in  particular,  it  is  undoubtedly  tlie  most 
full,  accurate  and  complete  Guide  1  have  ev«"r  seen. 

I  consider  it  indlspensalde  to  every  traveler  to  Califor- 
n!a;  a  great  credit  to  tlie  conntrv.  the  PublUher.  ami  the 
Railroad.         (signed,)       T.  SICKELS,  Chief  Engineer. 


Chicaoo,  Biirlixoton  &  QuincvR.  R  • 

Chicago.  t 

Having  carefully  examined  your  ••  Pacific  Tourlnt"  and 
Guide  across  the  Continent,  I  have  no  heritation  in  pro- 
nouncini!  il  a  '•  i/nvirl  mrremi." 

Ilia  full  of  intere-ling  inforinntlon  and  valuable  stalis- 
tica.  and  1  cheerfully  recominei-  .  *o  the  Traveler  and 
Xourtst. 

D.  W.  HITCHCOCK,  V  aiaenger  Agent 


CnicAor,  Rock  ■o^...<.d  &  Pacific  R.  R.  I 

<;bicngo.  t 

I  am  In  receipt  of  yon;  ..(Uiitrated  Trans.  Continental  R. 
R.  Guide,  and  will  say  Ihat  it  is  the  hiindsoniest.  most  com- 
plete, accurate  and  reliabli'.  Overland  Guide  that  I  have  yet 
seen.  Tlio  Kneravinas  n-.e  well  executed,  and  the  scenery 
Selected  for  Iirustnitior.s  the  finest  on  the  route. 

I  am  confident  that  yjiir  efforts  fo  funiish  Tourists  with 
a  correct  and  readahio  Guide,  will  insure  its  success 

jA.  M.  SMITH,  Geu'l  Paasengur  Agent 


CniCAOO,  BnRLINOTON  &  QniNCY  R.  R.  I 
Chicago,  f 

Allow  vnf  to  express  a  hearty  appreciation  of  your 
"  Pacific  I'.i'.rlsl." 

As  a  G.ddH  to  the  Pacific.  It  Is  far  In  advance  of  any 
other  v'ork  of  similar  clianictertli  it  has  come  to  my  notice, 
and  o'i'j  ili:it  you  may  Ju«tlv  \m  i-rond  of. 

It  I',  replcto  with  rnlnnhh  Infnrnia  iim  1o  the  traveler, 

Kiid  M)  iiiten'nHrMed  with  excellent  miscellany,  <  unlike  ot  her 

M)''jalled  Guides )  that  the  reader  can  nut  fail  lo  iMcuine 

interested,  and  close  with  avenlictof  "well  done." 

SAMUEL  l-OWELL,  Get"  TIrket  Aieiit  C.  B  &  Q.  K.  R 

AUo,  See'y,  Oen'l  T.ck'X  amA  Pass.  Age-xt's 

Association  of  U.  B. 


tHiJstimontitfe  2  (^Uox^mmtB 


OF 


MAILMOADS,  THE  PBES8,  AND  PUBLIC  MEN. 


% 


l*K. 


"  Uwios  VAoirto  Railroad  Co.,  1 

UMAMA,  NkB.  f 

I  consider  TnB  Pacific  Tourist  a  very  complete 
yolama,  liulispuiixultlu  to  ilio  ovurlmid  |m.>««iij{er,  Hiid  a 
bouk  tliat  overy  library  Hlioiild  coiitahi.  'I'Iih  iaruriiiiitloii 
it  kIvhs  in  correut  iiiiU  coiiuisuly  gtaltxl,  while  the  Mii.stia- 
tioii«  are  very  true  and  beautiful,  formlii);  a  most  altrMclive 
f«iitura  of  thr  work.  You  should  be  liberally  rewarded  (or 
tbe  palua  aud  expense  yoa  have  biien  .*t  lii  produciiii{  It. 

J.  J.  Dickey, 
Superintendent  Telegrapli  Department." 

"Office  Cbicaqo  &  Nobth-Webtebn  Railroad,  Co.    t 

Ton  have  made  <t  Guide  that  you  xhould  Ins  proud  of  and 
I  trui>t  that  you  wdl  l>e  amply  repaiil  fur  yuur  work.  I  ala- 
oerely  liupe  for  its  suuoeM. 

W.  II.  Ptkxsett, 
General  Pus:ieii2ur  Agent." 


"  Office  of  U.  S.  Gpologlcal  tnd  Oeographicat  Survey 
of  tllti  i'erritorioi*. 

•  Wasuixotox. 
Dear  Sir: 

Y'liir  Quide  Ronic  is  splrtndld.  Noihtnslike  It  ever 
fiot  out  iHi  tlii«  C'liiliiiJiit.  It  U  a  world  iM  iiiruriii.itioii  In 
re^anl  to  the  Kur  West.  It  will  Ix)  uauI'iiI.  not  only  lo  tlio 
traveler.Jiut  to  all  otiient,  a«  a  <-ou  luii'>ei|  library  of  infur- 
lualiou  about  the  West.  Youra  Diiiueruly, 

F.  V.  Haydex." 


"MionioAsCKKTRAL  Railroad  Co.,       I 

UlllUAUO  I 

I  thank  you  for  an  opportunity  to  lee  '  Bowmak'8  Pa- 
OTPHJ  TifURISTS'auiDK.'  It  niakeM  a  verv  creditable  np- 
pearance,  and  will  niHet  the  waniM  of  all  who  are  Hearuhiiig 
for  a  correct  ifultlu  to  the  many  (lOintHof  inlereM  upon  our 
Great  Tiian8-ci>ntinental  Kowtb.  I  wUh  you  much 
■uco«M  iu  tbe  undertaking.  Yours  truly, 

Henry  C.  We.ntworth, 
Ueiieral  PaMungur  Agent." 


"CmOAOO,  BUBLIN'OTOX  &  QUIXCV  RAILROAD  CO.,        ) 

U  iSTOX.  I 

Tour  Oiildn  \*  very  finely  frotleii  up,  and  is  ahead  of  any- 
thing of  llM  lUud  1  have  yet  mod. 

E.  P.  Ripley, 
Qeneral  Banlern  Agent." 


"  MicHTOAS  Cbxtrai.  Railroad,        I 
DiisroN*.  I 

1  have  examlneil  your 'Pacific  Thiirist.*  and  take 
ple'cure  In  otmineiidiii4t  it  to  tniii'-i-oiiiinentMl  trividnis, 
not  only  lu  nn  neunnitH  Gniilu  niK^k.lml  im  a  work  well  '-al- 
cnla'eit  to  while  nwnv  li<inn*  widi'li  liH<-oinH  loit  h>*av*'  for 
eomfoi't.  Tli>4  work  lit  well  edltixl.  and  \*  worllivof  n  n,  i.-n, 
iiiit  ■■•:ly  in  llie  li^tiid.'-  of  the  traveler,  but  nn  the  kIi'  Iveo  of 
tin  p'ivnlH  liiiriry.  1  hupu ycur  labors  will  lueul  with sat- 
bfaoiory  reward. 

J.  Q.  A.  Beak, 
9enorftI  Eastern  Agent" 


"  We  are  surprised  at  the  amount  of  information  it  con« 
tains.  The  volume  roiilHiiiM  more  iiintler  than  the  torn- 
billed  iHHues  of  Norilhutt'sCalilonila,  Picturesque  America, 
and  (Jiiifiilt'd  l>uok.  its  ilhl^trHl1ona  of  western  cceiiery 
anil  travel,  in  numbers,  beauty  and  accuracy,  exceed  those 
of  any  volnnie  ever  pulilixheil.  Tlie  railroiid  coniiiaides 
have  unnuHlltludly  indorsed  It  as  the  most  accurate  and  te- 
llable guide  ever  seen." 

American  Bookseller,  N.  Y. 

"The  Pacific  Tourist  Is  singularly  full  and  complete." 
The  Evekiso  Post,  N.  Y. 

"  lUE  Pacific  ToirBisr  in  as  Us  editor  claims,  the  costliest 
nnd  liaii<lH>Miert  I'lmk  ot  llieMirt  yet  iK!>ned.  Tiie  dur.  <'ip> 
tioiiitaiH  w.'ll  wiiltcn.  and  w  ««<l  t'i'!'<iiY{n|!i«  after  ikmmI  h-t- 
istM  iirM  veiy  h;iiid.''<>me.  The  editor  t>H»  done  a  i:ieat 
deal  of  triiveliiii;.  h|>eiil  a  com-ideiiilile  nmoniil  of  money 
In  tietiiiii;  u|i  ihe  (inide.  ami  \m*  been  very  competently 
aided  by  tuuriiiti)  aiiil  journaiititH  of  ex|ierleiicu." 

Springfield  Republican,  (Mass.) 

"It  will  not  dloappoint  expectations  In  any  respect,  its 
only  fault  bi'iii)!  Iliai  iU  lonieiilH  are  uf  fo  ^om|>l'<'llen^i^e  a 
kind,  tinit  tiii<  intei'tlini;  iontli<t  wl.l,  likely  enough,  tsuller 
(ruiu  an  euiburrat>i>nieiit  of  ricliex." 

Daily  Inquirer,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 

■' TliisOuidc  ranks  nmonn  the  very  best  pfforts  ever  iciiiird. 
TiR  rirlinehK  iiml  c<iiii|ili-ieiieHs  in  illiihtratlmiM.  iiiloinuiiicin 
and  dehcri|>tions.  can  only  be  leiillKcd  by  an  eximitmitloii 
<i(  the  work.  Tbe  ^lonnd  travelid  over  ami  •  eMillieil  is 
iniinenHe.  It  in  doMblinl  if  nnv  oilier  work  ofTerH  I'O  niinh 
viilinible  and  u»eriil  ■.nfoininllon  lo  tiavilei-x  in  ^o  hiic- 
cinct  and  iitlr«clive  a  form.  We  may  say  tliitt  it  jiives.  In- 
de<d.  too  innch  for  the  money.  Tiie  vli-w»  are  piofuKe  and 
liolably  graal.  The  Hmoiinl  of  illnslnitlon  In  tlie  iKMik  con- 
hiiieiing  itscO!<t,iu  ab^-olutely  marvelons,  and  tiie  ability  and 
energy  the  editor  bus  shown  in  getting  it  up  is  some- 
thing lo  be  admired." 

Publishers'  Weekly,  New  York  City. 

"  At  las'  there  is  a  Giildi'  Book  to  the  Pacific  roast,  ev^ry 
way  woi'iiiv  of  the  nondrrlnl  hceiiei y,  avd  inexliiiiit>iil>le 
ri'MHireeH  of  tbe  weKlein  luiil  of  the  Aliieilcan  t  ontilMlit, 
ami  ilie  i-nuarliv,  hklll  and  inoiiey  ihal  liavu  given  us  the 
Piilllc  H  ■llio.iils. 

TilK  Paoikkj  Tnt-RlST  Is  eillled  bv  tlie  one  man  in  this 
eiHiM-rv  u'liM  ii«  competent  lo  tninii-li  kucIi  a  Giilile  n<Mik. 
Th^  editor  lias,  in  |iersonnl  travel  ami  by  vmions  exciir- 
sioiiT.'iHiMle  himsel'  iwri-oniilly  familiar  wiih  the  v*hole 
(iroiind.  Tlie  volume  is  tilled  with  all  |io>-kil>Wlnlorninlioii  uf 
value  lo  tlinne  inti-iiiilni;  to  travel  lo  tlie  Pacific,  and  Ik  so 
inlereminclv  written  and  so  lavlslilv  iind  lieNntilnlh  illus- 
Initeil  by  the  best  artlxt".  nst"  make  it  a  voliiniu  woilliy  any 
library.  Time  and  space  utterly  fail  1"  dei-ciibo  details. 
Tlie  book  only  iieedi*  to  be  He«-n  to  Iw  appreciated." 

The  D>  ilv  Union,  Spbinofield,  Mass. 

"  Tndispensnbla  to  persons  ♦mvcllne  In  the  West.  It  Is 
brniiulit  on*  in  exc<  llent  even  Kiimpi nous  style,  anil  Is  very 
cooioiiHly  illustrated  with  pictun-B  of  interesting  places  and 
cli'iriei..r«<. 

Kvery  Korl  of  Information  ns»'ful  and  pntert'ilninc.  Is  pivon 
In  reitiid  lo  till)  wliole  le^li  n  <if  ilie  P.-irilie  SIo|)e.  llius 
making  tlie  book  of  the  greatest  value  to  tourists  ami  busi- 
ness men." 

The  Daily  Or..-  i-mc,  N.  Y. 


] 


OCCIDENTAL  AND  ORIENTAL  STEAMSHIP  COMPANY, 


FOR 


JAPAN  and  CHZXf  A. 

Leave  Wharf,  cor.  First  end  Brannan  Sts.,  ut  noon,  for 


id 


Cpxmecting  at  YOKOHAMA  -with  Steamers  for  SHANGHAK. 


GAELIC/'       "OCEANIC/'       '*  BELCIC/' 

■W^IiL    BAHi    FROM    SAW    FRAITCISCO    AT     IZXTTERVALS    OF    ABOUT    T"WEITTY    DAYS 


Cabin  Plans  on  exhibition  and  Passage  Tickets  for  sale  at  No.  2   New  Mont' 
gomery  Street. 

Tho  Saloons  and  Staterooms  of  the  Steamers  of  this  Line  are  located  amidship,  forward  of  th» 
engines,  thus  secmiiiy  the  least  motion  and  tho  best  ventilatibn. 

Prompt  attention  paid  to  Telegraphic  Rescn'ations  of  Staterooms  or  Berths. 


(D9C)                          PiMa»8  Ra*,e?  a.^  follows 

,  snbiect  to 

Dhange : 

(1881.) 

•First  Class 

Distances 

Payable  In  IT.  S.  Gold  Coin. 

cr 
Cabin. 

Eu'opean 
Steerage. 

Chin-se 
Ste.rage. 

from 
S  n  F-iincisco. 

Son  Francisco  to  Yokohama,  Japan. . . . 

$250.00 

S  85.00 

831.00 

4,800   miles. 

"  Hiogo,             "     .... 

270.00 

100.00 

5G.00 

5,100 

•     "              "  Nagasaki,        "     

290.00 

100  00 

G2.00 

5,550 

•«              "  Shanghae,   China. . . 

305.00 

100.00 

G5.00 

6,000 

«•              •<  Hongkong,      "     .... 

300.00 

100.00 

51.00 

G,400 

«•              "  Singapore,   Intlia 

380.00 

7,850 

"              "  Pcnang,           "     

400.00 

8,250 

"              "  Cidcutta,         "     .... 

450.00 

9.800 

GHHiDBEN  imdcr  12  years  of  age,  one-half  r.ites;  under  5  years,  one-quarter  rates:  under  2  years,  free. 

Si-nivANTS  accompanying  their  employers  will  be  charged  two-thirds  of  cabin  rate,  witBout  regard  to 
ago  or  sex,  and  will  be  berthed  and  served  with  meds  according  to  ship's  regulations. 

250  lbs.  baggage  allowed  each  adult  First-Class  or  Cabin  Passenger;  150  lbs  each  European  Steen-xgo; 
100  lbs  each  Cainese  Steerage;  propo?tionato  to  Childi-en.  Excess  Baggiigo  chajged  for  at  Ten  (10)  cents 
per  lb. 

*,^a5~  Roiind  Trip  Tickets,  good  for  twelve  months,  will  be  sold  at  a  reduction  of  12J  per  cent, 
from  regidar  rates 

An  allowance  of  20  per  cent,  on  return  pasSJlgo  will  be  made  to  passengers  paying  full  fare  to  Japan 
or  China,^.or  vice  ve'sa,  who  re-embark  withili  f«x  months  fi'om  date  of  landing,  and  an  allowance  of  10 
per  cent  to  those  who  return  within  twelve  months 

llouND  Trap  TiciaiTa  from  San  Francisco  to  Yokohama  and  return,  good  for  three  months,  at 
reduced  rates. 

Famiues  whose  fare  amounts  to Joor full  passngM  will  be  allowed  7  per  cent,  reduction. 

Exclusive  use  of  Statehooms  can  be  secured  ty  the  payment  of  half-rato  for  extra  berths. 

For  freight  apply  to  Geo.  H.  Rice,  Freight  Agent,  at  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship 
Company's  Wharf,  or  at  No.  202  Market  Street,  Union  Block. 

T.  H.  GOODMAN,  G^enl  Passenger  Agent. 
LELAND  STANFORD,  President. 


f^   » 


